Transmission and Clutch for My Engine

[Carography]

I have the Blueprint 302ci, 361 Horsepower Engine.
My Roadster will be strictly a street car.
Is this enough transmission and clutch.

https://lmr.com/item/MCL-75005BK/mustang-gt-50-mcleod-street-level-master-clutch-kit-82-93
https://lmr.com/item/M7003ZB/Mustang-T5-World-Class-Transmission-Bellhousing-M-7003-Z

Any input appreciated.
Thanks in advance

[egchewy79]

I have a T5Z for my 289 and love it.
I got my clutch through Mike Forte and believe it's a ram clutch

[JMD]

I have the same engine (it's the perfect fit for this size/weight of a car IMO) and think it would be fine with a sturdy T5 transmission as it's relatively low torque on a light car. (You'll get some mixed opinions about that on the forum, but the majority of people who have them don't seem to have any issues and they definitely shift smoother than the TKX.)

I would not recommend the clutch you linked for two reasons. 1) I've heard a lot of quality control issues with McLeod clutches. Of course I can't say anything definitive, but I've read enough about different people having problems that I would personally go with another brand. 2) I think you're going to want a step up in power handling capacity. The last thing you want is a weak clutch and I think you can get a stronger clutch without sacrificing any drivability.

I have the Ram 88794T and love it. It's an organic clutch (which is best for street cars with moderate hp), engages smoothly, has very moderate pedal effort, and is rated up to 450hp. This was the clutch recommended by Mike Forte when he assembled my engine and it's a winner. I also have a stock weight flywheel and it pairs nicely with this clutch for street driving. I was concerned a standard weight flywheel would be too heavy, but with it the car moves off from a stop effortlessly and still revs quickly and freely. I think it's a great combo for a street driven car.

Good luck!

[gbranham]

Your engine makes 361hp, and that clutch is good to 300hp, or so it says. Does that sound like enough clutch?

[skidd]

I have a 302 (300-350hp) in front of a used t5z and this clutch.
https://a.co/d/cQQsHca
Been holding fine for 11k miles so far. Smooth to engage and shift.
I'd really suggest you look at a T5z though. 1st gear is an excellent ratio compared to the T5WC. I have 3.55 rear axle gears, and the t5z is really well suited.

[Jim Doak]

I had a similar combination in my first car, a T5 Z with a small block and it worked great. The only thing I didn't like was that first gear (2.95:1) was pretty low and I had to shift into 2nd gear almost immediately from a dead stop. That's one of the reasons I'm using a TKX in my current build, also behind a 361 horse BluePrint 302. (The TKX has a slightly longer 2.87:1 first gear ratio.)

Also, the T5 has a really high 5th gear ratio (0.63:1) while the TKX I'm using has a 0.68:1 ratio which I think will work better with my 3.55 rear gears.

[Mike.Bray]

McLeod's quality can be a little iffy in my experience and from what I hear. I'm running this clutch and it's smooth as silk. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ram-88794hdt

Combine it with a Tilton HTB and your car will be an absolute joy to drive. Just don't forget to change the master cylinder to a Tilton while you're in there.

[Carography]

I'd really suggest you look at a T5z though. 1st gear is an excellent ratio compared to the T5WC. I have 3.55 rear axle gears, and the t5z is really well suited.

LMR webpage describes this transmission as a World Class T5Z.
"Stock T5’s don’t fare well in modified Mustangs. Forget rebuilding, step up to the Tremecs World Class T5Z transmission (M-7003-ZB)!"
Is there a distinction between a World Class T5 and a T5Z?
Thanks everyone for the clutch recommendations. Big help.

[Jeff Kleiner]

LMR webpage describes this transmission as a World Class T5Z.
"Stock T5’s don’t fare well in modified Mustangs. Forget rebuilding, step up to the Tremecs World Class T5Z transmission (M-7003-ZB)!"
Is there a distinction between a World Class T5 and a T5Z?
Thanks everyone for the clutch recommendations. Big help.

They have a slightly higher torque rating and feature better (IMO) gear ratios; specifically a 2.95 vs 3.35 first gear.

Unless you abuse it or do drag strip clutch dumps on slicks you’ll have a hard time hurting it.

Jeff

[Derald Rice]

here is a really good explanation of T5's...

https://www.moderndriveline.com/the-many-different-faces-of-the-t5/

[StangRacer]

I have the Blueprint 302ci, 361 Horsepower Engine.
My Roadster will be strictly a street car.
Is this enough transmission and clutch.

https://lmr.com/item/MCL-75005BK/mustang-gt-50-mcleod-street-level-master-clutch-kit-82-93
https://lmr.com/item/M7003ZB/Mustang-T5-World-Class-Transmission-Bellhousing-M-7003-Z

Any input appreciated.
Thanks in advance

Both of those will be fine for your purpose. However, that clutch is just a generic rebranded clutch you can buy off eBay or Amazon for 1/3 the cost.

With a t5 look for a clutch with an organic sprung disc. Buying a heavy clutch is a good way to kill a t5…

One thing to consider regarding the bellhousing, especially if using a cast flywheel, is where the bellhousing is located in the vehicle. In a FFR roadster the engine is set back a good amount and a good portion of your legs are along side the bellhousing. Should the flywheel or clutch suffer a catastrophic failure, which the probability is low, you would be much better off with an explosion proof bellhousing. That cast aluminum bellhousing and the .040 aluminum is not going to do much to stop the chunks of flywheel…

[rich grsc]

Both of those will be fine for your purpose. However, that clutch is just a generic rebranded clutch you can buy off eBay or Amazon for 1/3 the cost.

With a t5 look for a clutch with an organic sprung disc. Buying a heavy clutch is a good way to kill a t5…

One thing to consider regarding the bellhousing, especially if using a cast flywheel, is where the bellhousing is located in the vehicle. In a FFR roadster the engine is set back a good amount and a good portion of your legs are along side the bellhousing. Should the flywheel or clutch suffer a catastrophic failure, which the probability is low, you would be much better off with an explosion proof bellhousing. That cast aluminum bellhousing and the .040 aluminum is not going to do much to stop the chunks of flywheel…

When has a flywheel or clutch had a catastrophic failure in a street drive car with moderate HP? :rolleyes:

[Ford & Jeep Fan]

LMR webpage describes this transmission as a World Class T5Z.
"Stock T5’s don’t fare well in modified Mustangs. Forget rebuilding, step up to the Tremecs World Class T5Z transmission (M-7003-ZB)!"
Is there a distinction between a World Class T5 and a T5Z?
Thanks everyone for the clutch recommendations. Big help.


If i remember correctly, According to FoMoCo All 1985 and Newer 5.0L cars got the World Class T-5 built transmissions.

That clutch will certainly hold more HP than the 3rd gear of a T5

[StangRacer]

When has a flywheel or clutch had a catastrophic failure in a street drive car with moderate HP? :rolleyes:

Are you saying the probability is zero?

[Cobraman]

Before you purchase anything check with MDL specialist these guys can tell you everything you need to know. Be prepared to have all your requirements HP gear ratio tire size ect. Then make an informed decision based on facts. They have put drive train in many of these cars. I did this and also saved some $$

[Carography]

here is a really good explanation of T5's...

https://www.moderndriveline.com/the-many-different-faces-of-the-t5/

thanks for this. very helpful.