5150 M5 Anniversary Edition Build Thread

[Reddrig]

Well, the time has come. Expecting delivery in the next week on my M5 Anniversary Edition. Motor will be a BP stage 2 427. Opted for the 18” wheels instead of the 17” wheels that are standard on the roadster. Also opted for PS and PB. Most everything else is fairly standard on the Anniversary Edition.

I live in Mooresville NC and have what I consider to be an intermediate background wrenching. Rebuilt a 1989 Chevy Blazer which included BP motor replacement, 1972 Jeep CJ which was mostly a refresh. Some modern wrenching on an LS3 2010 Camaro, blower install and meth added along with suspension upgrades for the strip.

It’s been a dream to build a FFR since I can remember. I’m retired now and have the time and the space to get er done. I’ll be trying to update my progress daily or at least the days I wrench. Hoping the community here can get me through this project.

[rickster991]

Fellow builder in NC.

[Reddrig]

Fellow builder in NC.

Good to hear your in NC, I’m sure I’ll be reaching out. Just received the my kit today. I was a little disappointed in how many missing and back ordered parts I have. But I’m sure FFR will be good about getting everything to me. I was missing rather large items like wheels and tires and seats. Here are a couple of photos.

[Nigel Allen]

Good to hear your in NC, I’m sure I’ll be reaching out. Just received the my kit today. I was a little disappointed in how many missing and back ordered parts I have. But I’m sure FFR will be good about getting everything to me. I was missing rather large items like wheels and tires and seats. Here are a couple of photos.

At least they are parts that you won't be needing for some time. I wouldn't worry about backordered parts, FFR has an excellent reputation for support on backorders, missing or faulty parts. They supported me well, on the other side of the world.

It's a great project and the end result will definitely keep you smiling.

Cheers,

Nige

[rickster991]

Good to hear your in NC, I’m sure I’ll be reaching out. Just received the my kit today. I was a little disappointed in how many missing and back ordered parts I have. But I’m sure FFR will be good about getting everything to me. I was missing rather large items like wheels and tires and seats. Here are a couple of photos.

My advice is leave the parts in the numbered boxes if you can. I tried to “organize” them myself and it has been stressful finding parts. :) also my BO list had check marks which meant it was actually shipped which was confusing. I highlighted the parts that were missing on the box checklist so that when I was “missing” a part from the instructions I would know it was back ordered. Good luck!

[Reddrig]

So today I was able to get my inventory done and get the body off and stored on my homemade body buck on my lift. I used the lift for box storage also. I numbered the boxes on all four sides for easy Identification later.

I was able to get my first part installed which was exciting, so the PS rack is in. I was disappointed because I only received one of the metal sleeves that goes into the new bushings for the rack. So I installed it and will need to go back and push the sleeve in later.

The body was a little bit of a pain in the butt, but it finally popped off. All of my coated panels were not installed, so it’s like a giant jig saw puzzle. But overall I’m very excited and got a lot of organization done today.

My frame is on two rolling dolly's made by Eastwood, so far I’m very happy with them. They fit great and make pushing the frame around easy. I made a body buck that fits between the rails in my lift, I used the regular measurements for the four posts that fit under the body wheel flare openings. So far I’m happy with that.

I’ll try to update daily as work progresses.215083215084215082215085215081

[Ejzajac]

I know you have a single car garage and not a lot of storage space. Will your set up allow you to put the frame on the 4 poster lift, work at a very comfortable height and save your back! The body is relatively light and many have stored close to the ceiling with simplistic winch straps. Just a thought.

[Reddrig]

I know you have a single car garage and not a lot of storage space. Will your set up allow you to put the frame on the 4 poster lift, work at a very comfortable height and save your back! The body is relatively light and many have stored close to the ceiling with simplistic winch straps. Just a thought.

I have ceiling straps and can hang it from the ceiling when needed. Just using the lift for storage. This is just temporary we will use the lift when needed. I have another three car garage attached to the house. The body buck that’s sitting on the lift in the rails also has wheels. So does the frame so moving everything around just takes a few moments.

[Fman]

Congratulations on the new project, you are in for a really fun journey. Good call on the power brakes, if I end up doing another roadster will definitely go with power brakes. Looking forward to seeing your build come together.

[Homer]

I also have the 30th Anniversary Mk V and live about an hour from you (just outside Charlotte). I finally got a forum account created and will start my own build thread, feel free to shoot me a PM if you ever need help or see how me and my dad are getting along with our build. What number did you get? My kit is #6

[Reddrig]

I also have the 30th Anniversary Mk V and live about an hour from you (just outside Charlotte). I finally got a forum account created and will start my own build thread, feel free to shoot me a PM if you ever need help or see how me and my dad are getting along with our build. What number did you get? My kit is #6

I’ll follow your build and likewise, let me know if you need anything. Thanks

[Reddrig]

Worked up the Drivers side steering and suspension today. I was able to get through most of it. My Torque wrench was only good to 200 Ft Lb, so time for a bigger torque wrench for the Center hub bolts. Contacted FFR, they said they will send me the three metal sleeves for the passenger side and steering rack. Do you receive tracking numbers when they ship you something? No real issues so far.

I was a little concerned I had to thread the tie rods all the way down to achieve the starting 53 1/16” measurement the manual calls for. Did any one cut anything of the Power steering rack to shorten the threads slightly?.

But a good day in the AC garage.

[rickster991]

I lined up the wheels best I could once I got the steering wheel attached. I was very close to the end of the threads, but did not need to cut anything.

[Reddrig]

Today was another front end day, finished up most of the passenger side. No real issues to report on the front end. I wanted to talk a little about the fact FFR doesn’t include a manual anymore. You are expected to download the manual and use it electronically. I was a little disappointed in this at first, but I received this gift for Father’s Day which has changed my life. I can now mount my IPad at eye level with adjustability and not have to pick it up or set it down constantly. Best gift ever!

[mt10flyer]

I have those same floor tiles on my garage. I installed them in winter and they were fine. Now with the summer heat they have expanded and bunch up at the seams. I looks terrible now and is actually even a tripping hazard in some spots. Did you use adhesive or just lay them on the floor? Notice any trouble?
Thanks

Crapola - title is supposed to be WAY off topic
Shizzle

[Reddrig]

I have those same floor tiles on my garage. I installed them in winter and they were fine. Now with the summer heat they have expanded and bunch up at the seams. I looks terrible now and is actually even a tripping hazard in some spots. Did you use adhesive or just lay them on the floor? Notice any trouble?
Thanks

Crapola - title is supposed to be WAY off topic
Shizzle

I bought these at Lowe’s 5 years ago and have never had a problem. They are just floating, no adhesive.

[Reddrig]

I know this is a step everyone goes through, but thought I would post my results and tools used. I initially was going to try and use the sawzall the manual shows, but quickly followed other people’s advise and used my handheld Dewalt cut off wheel tool. It made nice accurate work of the tab. The 5/8” hole chase was easy, slow and steady. I used a new sharp bit with some tap oil very so often, cut through like butter. The oil keeps a lot of the aluminum shards clumped up which is nice for cleanup. I finished off de burring with a handheld Milwaukee band sander. Love this tool, makes quick work on metal cleanup.

My problem of the day was a stubborn wheel stud (one of the new ones) it just didn’t want to go in and ended up recking the threads. So had to order a new one. All the rest went in with no issues using the washer and lug nut method.

Posted a pic of my tools used.

[cv2065]

My problem of the day was a stubborn wheel stud (one of the new ones) it just didn’t want to go in and ended up recking the threads. So had to order a new one. All the rest went in with no issues using the washer and lug nut method. Posted a pic of my tools used.


A machine shop will press both hubs for $15-20.

[Reddrig]

A machine shop will press both hubs for $15-20.

Ordered one and this one went in no problem. So ll is good. But yes I’m sure that would have been an easier option.

[Reddrig]

So the diff went into today, I’m not going to bore everyone with the same old story. But It’s the same old story, it was a heavy weight fight for two hours. I finally won the fight after the full ten rounds. I think the diff is a right of passage on these builds.

[Reddrig]

Today was a good day. Was able to get in the rear end, shafts, suspension and Sway bar. The Clevis joints had to be opened up slightly on several pieces, but overall nothing to difficult today or problematic. Nothing is torqued yet, I’m going to tackle the brakes in the next few days.

I am going with the Wildwood ebrake, my original cable actuated Wildwood ebrakes will be up for sale at some point if someone is interested. Still no idea from FFR when my tires and wheels will arrive, they won’t even guess on a date. I’m close to having a roller, so it would be nice to get some news.

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[Reddrig]

Today I finished up the rear end with the Brakes, nothing to hard to report. The Wildwoods were a little tedious with the shimming but I managed to get everything dialed in. I’m also using the Electric actuated Wildwood E brake. The only difference is you need to reverse the sides for the brakes because the plug adapter will interfere with the shock. I love the simplicity of this setup vs the cables. I also like less clutter and keeping things simple which this does.

On that same not Ive pieced together my fuel system. I’ll be running a return-less system with a Holly In tank pump running through a Radium Engineering Filter to a Pulse Damper just prior to the Sniper2, pressure gauge will be at the damper. Fuel tank install is next on the list. I’ll need to open up the whole to accommodate my fuel pump. Should get this started tomorrow.

[Reddrig]

My father in law came over and helped me get the tank in, it was a little more difficult than anticipated. My Fuel pump when installed was interfering with the edge of the baffle in this tank, had to put a slight bend in the Alum bracket that holds the pump to clear the edge of the baffle. Holly called for the pump to sit approx 1” off the bottom of the tank so not to pick up debris or water. Just seemed a little wired since I don’t work on fuel systems that often. But after it cleared the edge of the baffle it went in fine.

Even after I thought I did a thorough inventory I was missing the bolts that attach the tank straps to the frame, had to make a run to the bolt store. I was also missing the small frame plugs that rest on the frame to tank.

I big question is for you experienced roadster builders, did you wait until the motor was in to run your fuel and brake lines? I’m leaning towards waiting just to see how everything fits together. I don’t want to punch a bunch of holes only to relocate stuff later. Any advice would be nice?


Do any of you have any pictures of where you mounted your fuel filters and charcoal canisters? Going to get that done soon.

[rickster991]

I just moved mine as I changed the pump to filter line. Before and after pictures in my thread.

[Reddrig]

Working on the pedal box, decided to get some more experience powder coating so I did some of the bare parts for the box. Did them in a bronze which looks better than bare metal. Bought an Eastwood kit which works great. 1 hour from start to finish I have a coated part.

[Reddrig]

So we finished up a lot of the foot box and got the steering sorted for the most part, you definitely need to cut the shafts to get the steering out of binding mode. Needs a little Patience working with everything.

The accelerator pedal can be mounted in a position of your choice, you can drill holes in the frame plate and mount where you like according to a FFR tech call. Just make sure you have your steering shaft and pedal box installed so it doesn’t interfere. I’m going to be using the Lokar throttle cable with the attaching bracket for the sniper 2.
First panel was installed and this black anodizing is really nice, very scratch resistant compared to powder coat.
Ready to make this thing a roller, but FFR still has no estimate or ship date in my wheels and tires.215805215806215803215804

[65StangBoy]

I'm also in the Charlotte area, Harrisburg to be exact. I'll be following your build and be living vicariously through you. I've got two young teenagers that will probably want to go to college someday, so I'm probably looking at building somewhere in the 35th-40th Anniversary Kit timeframe. I've got a '65 Fastback coming in a few weeks, so that'll have to keep me busy for a little while. Looks like you're off to a great start, keep up the good work!

[Reddrig]

I'm also in the Charlotte area, Harrisburg to be exact. I'll be following your build and be living vicariously through you. I've got two young teenagers that will probably want to go to college someday, so I'm probably looking at building somewhere in the 35th-40th Anniversary Kit timeframe. I've got a '65 Fastback coming in a few weeks, so that'll have to keep me busy for a little while. Looks like you're off to a great start, keep up the good work!

Thanks, both I’ve mine just moved out of the house. It’s been a great experience so far. Just finished up some panels on the passenger foot box. I’m really trying to slow roll my build, I’m powder coating most bare metal pieces and trying not to rely on the hammer build method. I’ve got some ideas for custom touches along the way. Wish I could get my wheels and tires at this point since it’s ready to at least roll. The panel installation is slow going and somewhat tedious.

Hopefully we can meet up one day.

[Reddrig]

I put in the power brake booster today, I hated the silver crappy finish so I gave it a rough black paint job and a coat of clear. Powder coated the bracket also. At least it matches the other brakes and PS rack now.

I’ve also been messing with the turn signal stalk and mechanism. I’ve been reading some other MV threads, this design is not user friendly. I’m a little surprised FFR is using this design. Even if you get it shimmed and aligned properly it still looks fragile and prone to problems quickly. I’m going to mess with it again tomorrow.

Still having a blast working on the car, still waiting on any word for tires and wheels. Engine should be here by the end of the month.

[rponfick]

So we finished up a lot of the foot box and got the steering sorted for the most part, you definitely need to cut the shafts to get the steering out of binding mode. Needs a little Patience working with everything.

The accelerator pedal can be mounted in a position of your choice, you can drill holes in the frame plate and mount where you like according to a FFR tech call. Just make sure you have your steering shaft and pedal box installed so it doesn’t interfere. I’m going to be using the Lokar throttle cable with the attaching bracket for the sniper 2.
First panel was installed and this black anodizing is really nice, very scratch resistant compared to powder coat.
Ready to make this thing a roller, but FFR still has no estimate or ship date in my wheels and tires.215805215806215803215804

Reddrig, did you fully install your Lokar cable to the firewall? I could not get the nut on the footwell side of the firewall because the welded bracket was too close to the factory drilled cable passthrough hole. I had to drill another hole further from the framework. Hope my cable angles are still OK.
Ralph

[Reddrig]

Reddrig, did you fully install your Lokar cable to the firewall? I could not get the nut on the footwell side of the firewall because the welded bracket was too close to the factory drilled cable passthrough hole. I had to drill another hole further from the framework. Hope my cable angles are still OK.
Ralph

I took a few more photos to show the position, I was able to just get mine in with probably a 1/4 mm of clearance. I took a,picture of what my cable looks like also. Hope these photos help. On my tech call he said you can drill new holes or use the ones already there, I think it depends on exactly where you mount your pedal assembled also. I think you’ll be fine.

[Reddrig]

Mounted my reservoirs in a fairly common spot. They just fit inside with approx 1 mm clearance. I thought about mounting them on the engine side of the same wall, but decided I like to keep as much clutter out of the engine bay as possible. You probably won’t see these with the body in but I’m ok with that.

Started running some brake lines and made a mess out of the first line. I was able to get the first line finished today so that was some progress. Lastly I finally was able to get the turn signal stalk and unit centered to where it cancels in both directions. Had to try 10 different combinations of shims.

[danmas]

Mounted my reservoirs in a fairly common spot. They just fit inside with approx 1 mm clearance. I thought about mounting them on the engine side of the same wall, but decided I like to keep as much clutter out of the engine bay as possible. You probably won’t see these with the body in but I’m ok with that.

Started running some brake lines and made a mess out of the first line. I was able to get the first line finished today so that was some progress. Lastly I finally was able to get the turn signal stalk and unit centered to where it cancels in both directions. Had to try 10 different combinations of shims.

Maybe the mk5 is different but I didn’t think you would want the tops on your reservoir higher than the rails. I think the body will rest on it? Also, how are you going to fill them with the body on?

[Jeff Kleiner]

Maybe the mk5 is different...

It is ;) however these will be somewhat obscured by the body.

Jeff

[Reddrig]

It is ;) however these will be somewhat obscured by the body.

Jeff

I actually got the idea from Erik Treves, his were mounted in the same triangle cut out. The top of the reservoir is above the Master Cylider so I’m fine with the level. It probably will make filling or topping off a chore, but hopefully I won’t be doing that often. They sit below the level of the fender aluminum panel or at least my hasty calculations had them below.


If some of you more experienced builders no something I don’t please let me know. This was a picture of Erik’s location, only difference he mounted on the outside wall, I’m on the inside wall. Erik I plagiarized a shot from your video, hope you don’t mind.

I might need to put a slight left bend in the top of the Alum panel to clear the second reservoir, but I dint really like other locations. I’ll see how they work out.

[Reddrig]

Worked on finishing up the foot box on both sides. Finished the front brake lines and routed the rear brake line from the master to the Booster (60” line) was perfect with approx 5” removed). Single run from the master. Powder coated some brake line clips in bronze to match the frame. Getting ready to rivnut the top of the drivers side foot box for later access.

So far everything has gone ok with a few hiccups here and there. I’m waiting for word on my motor and wheels. Self canceling turn signals arrived today, I’m wondering if I can splice into the same harness as the turn signal kit that came from FFR. Im not sure if that long block connection mates up with the Ron Francis harness?

[Homer]

You're making great progress, you'll be flying along on I77 in no time! I'm also planning on using rivnuts for the driver side foot box although I don't know how accessible it will be with the body in place.

[Reddrig]

I guess you could say I’m in the dog days of riveting hell! I’ve been trying to assemble these panels, keep in mind most of the panels were not installed when delivered because of the anodizing. They came wrapped and stacked in the frame. So it’s like a giant jig saw puzzle using video and the manual for a little help. But which overlap goes where and so on can get exhausting. I’m sure I’ve missed a few, but it’s coming around. Sometimes it’s hard to tell which rivets will be visible and what direction to rivet from for the best look. I’m going to leave the drivers side open for better tunnel access for the motor install.

My motor is in Dyno and should be here late next week. That’s exciting, although I still have no timeline on wheels and tires. So I guess I’ll get to the battery tray next and start the coolant system.

[Reddrig]

So after I posted the picture I realized a row of rivets should have been done from back to front so I drilled them out and did it again. I guess it’s good to post you catch your own mistakes.

[rickster991]

The rivets never end! ��

[Dave Howard]

Great job so far with your project. I was looking at the brake/clutch reservoirs supplied with the 30th Anniversary kit and might look at buying a smaller triple from a 3rd party. Much like Erik, my engine bay is going to be crammed and I want to keep it clean like my last build.

[Mike.Bray]

I'm sure glad I had an automatic riveter.

216463

[gbranham]

Mike, was her nickname Rosey for the duration of the build? :)

[Reddrig]

Great job so far with your project. I was looking at the brake/clutch reservoirs supplied with the 30th Anniversary kit and might look at buying a smaller triple from a 3rd party. Much like Erik, my engine bay is going to be crammed and I want to keep it clean like my last build.

I was going the same direction, but just couldn’t pull the trigger. For me I wanted to keep the engine bay clutter free, so the two supplied fit in the location nicely. They also came with the supplied mounting bracket. But I might consider switching later if something really grabs me!

What’s funny is I thought I was done dropping tons of cash when I bought my kit, BUT ALL I DO IS SPEND MORE MONEY EVERY DAY! I just bought a battery and custom tray for that. So I’m trying to use the stuff I paid for, although it’s not going well!

[Mike.Bray]

Mike, was her nickname Rosey for the duration of the build? :)

It was!

My grandmother was a Rosie the Riveter, sort of. She ran a bridge crane at Lima Locomotive building tanks during the war. I always thought that was pretty cool.

[rponfick]

So after I posted the picture I realized a row of rivets should have been done from back to front so I drilled them out and did it again. I guess it’s good to post you catch your own mistakes.

Your eyes are a lot better than mine. How do you keep the alum so clean. Mine are a mess but will be covered by heat shield and carpet.
Great work.
Ralph

[Reddrig]

Today I spent all day on the radiator, decided to upgrade my fan and went with the Breeze Shroud with flexalite fan. I’m in NC and the summer can be very hot at times. So decided to just start with the shroud. Everything went together great, I was planning on my expansion tak mounting behind the radiator, but now I’ve used that room with the shroud. So I’m probably going to upgrade to the Canton 2 quart since I’m running a 427, I think the stock tank is too small. I’ll need to find a spot to mount it.



Also put in the fuse panel and loosely ran some wire. I’m starting to be discouraged because I have not received any word on my tires and wheels from FFR, it’s been almost 6 weeks. I know I’ll receive them, I just would like to get this thing rolling for several reasons.

[Reddrig]

I added the piece tunnel piece and put my three pass through holes in that location which I believe the manual said to use the firewall. I think this location will work out better, it allows more space between the firewall and dash. Hopefully it helps keep everything tidy in the dash.

[Reddrig]

I got my battery tray and battery mounted today. Odyssey PC925 battery which I’ve heard some good and bad things about, but I liked the small footprint. I made the tray detachable, but I think I might be able to wiggle it out anyway after the motor goes in. But the tray was powder coated to match the frame. It turned out nice, I’m happy with the look as long as it is up to the job.

I spoke to Factory Five again today about my 30th Anniversary wheels and tires. Talked with Dan and got the same answer I’ve gotten the last month every week, which is approximately 3 weeks. We are going on two months since they started delivering these kits and it could be over three months before we get wheels.

FFR has been good to deal with so far but I am loosing patience over the lack of wheels. This is obviously one of there top of the line kits that cost north of 40 grand, with the wheels being one of the center pieces of the kit. When talking with them they just say we are upset also. They said a problem with the vendor was the original issue, and now they have been apparently stuck on a ship. I know I’ll eventually get the wheels, but FFR has not even sent an email to customers/purchasers about the lack of wheels. It might have been nice to hear from them on the issue without having to call all the time.

[edwardb]

I spoke to Factory Five again today about my 30th Anniversary wheels and tires. Talked with Dan and got the same answer I’ve gotten the last month every week, which is approximately 3 weeks. We are going on two months since they started delivering these kits and it could be over three months before we get wheels.

FFR has been good to deal with so far but I am loosing patience over the lack of wheels. This is obviously one of there top of the line kits that cost north of 40 grand, with the wheels being one of the center pieces of the kit. When talking with them they just say we are upset also. They said a problem with the vendor was the original issue, and now they have been apparently stuck on a ship. I know I’ll eventually get the wheels, but FFR has not even sent an email to customers/purchasers about the lack of wheels. It might have been nice to hear from them on the issue without having to call all the time.

Every kit I've built had some component(s) that took longer than anything else. The 20th Anniversary Roadster was Wilwood. 6+ months for brakes. My Coupe was headlight covers. They had to switch suppliers due to quality issues. Also took multiple months. Etc, etc. In all cases, were supplier issues vs. something internal they had more control over. Less then a month after receipt, my 30th Anniversary Roadster kit only has three backordered parts and the several discrepancies I found have been resolved. Probably no consolation, but that's my best experience to date. I've asked a couple times about the status of my backordered parts and get answers. But I don't expect them to contact me. When they arrive they will be shipped. Doesn't sound like that's your expectation. But they are a relatively small company and everyone there is very busy.

I don't know the story about the 30th wheels except they're delayed. Unless you're a really fast builder, it shouldn't hold you up. I'm in line to receive them as well, and I'm confident that when they arrive they're ship them promptly. My experience is they do place priority on shipping backordered parts. Good thing you weren't around a few years ago when their previous wheel supplier's factory burned down along with all of Factory Five's tooling. As I recall, they were almost 2 years without wheels. The good news is with a new vendor and new tooling we have the higher quality wheels they're selling now. Hang in there.

[Mike.Bray]

To add to Paul's post, try building during Covid. My POL list was three (3) pages long.

I did find they seem to grease the squeaky wheels first. By that I mean two things. I was at the point that I needed the gas tank and I heard they got a batch in so I called. They told me they did have tanks but they were already committed to new kits. Smart from a business point of view, one less item to have to pay shipping one. I was nice but firm that I had been waiting and needed my tank and they shipped it right out to me. So even though they get a load of parts doesn't always mean you're at the top of the list, unless you call and (nicely) squeak.

Probably doesn't apply to special order 30th anniversary wheels but it did to my gas tank.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Don't think that I'm not sympathetic because I am but when I built one of the very first Mk4s for a customer we waited over 7 months for FFR Halibrands. I had the car built and running, ready to go drive but no rolling stock. Owner really wanted to take it for a spin and I was just about to take the wheels off of mine so that he could do so when I got a FedEx notification!

Jeff

[Reddrig]

Every kit I've built had some component(s) that took longer than anything else. The 20th Anniversary Roadster was Wilwood. 6+ months for brakes. My Coupe was headlight covers. They had to switch suppliers due to quality issues. Also took multiple months. Etc, etc. In all cases, were supplier issues vs. something internal they had more control over. Less then a month after receipt, my 30th Anniversary Roadster kit only has three backordered parts and the several discrepancies I found have been resolved. Probably no consolation, but that's my best experience to date. I've asked a couple times about the status of my backordered parts and get answers. But I don't expect them to contact me. When they arrive they will be shipped. Doesn't sound like that's your expectation. But they are a relatively small company and everyone there is very busy.

I don't know the story about the 30th wheels except they're delayed. Unless you're a really fast builder, it shouldn't hold you up. I'm in line to receive them as well, and I'm confident that when they arrive they're ship them promptly. My experience is they do place priority on shipping backordered parts. Good thing you weren't around a few years ago when their previous wheel supplier's factory burned down along with all of Factory Five's tooling. As I recall, they were almost 2 years without wheels. The good news is with a new vendor and new tooling we have the higher quality wheels they're selling now. Hang in there.

I respect everything you said in this post, I currently own my own business and have been in customer service prior to that. I always believe communication is paramount to transparency and keeping your customers happy. That being said, it takes all of 20 minutes to craft an email to buyers explaining the delay. With lack of information we are left up to guessing or trying to contact them for information. When you call you speak to different people that tell you different things which leads to confusion and on the customers side.

So as I’m generally happy with my experience so far, I do believe FFR could do better with communication. Some will disagree with this, but this is my expectation. I don’t expect to drop 40 + thousand and then just wait for how ever many months for a shipping email. I had done enough research to understand these issues do arise. My expectation is a little higher than yours which is fine, we all have different backgrounds and experiences.

As for my build, I’m ready to make this a roller, it’s much easier for me to take delivery of my engine and manage space if the car is a roller. Can I work around it, sure I can. I would also prefer to install my engine in a roller vs Jack stands. Can I install the engine on jack stands, yes but prefer not to. Anyway I’ve had a blast so far and still think highly of FFR, this is more constructive criticism. From everything I read most just say sit back and wait you’ll eventually get your parts. It sounds like this is the expectation so I probably need to conform to the standard.

So back to the car, I will start working on electrical and my dash layout next. I’ve got the carbon dash and plan to cut everything out and clear coat more of a gloss finish. I’m also going to install push timed turn signals in the button strip on the carbon dash.

Can anyone tell me if the headlight pull out two position switch is two position for high and low beams? My kit came with another push switch it states is the high beam switch?

[edwardb]

I...I don’t expect to drop 40 + thousand and then just wait for how ever many months for a shipping email. I had done enough research to understand these issues do arise. My expectation is a little higher than yours which is fine, we all have different backgrounds and experiences...

Nope. Sorry not going to let that one by. I said call and get updates. Not just wait. Don't wear them out, but it's reasonable to ask what's happening. What I do and I said as much. I'm not new at this either. Back to the build. As a general comment, I get that you want a roller and would make things easier. The downside to that is if you have wheels then you have tires and the aging clock is running on those at that point. Most recommend not getting tires until as late in the build as possible. If that would really help your build, what about looking for some salvage Mustang wheels and tires? Some builders use Guniwheels. But that's an expensive option,,,

[Reddrig]

Nope. Sorry not going to let that one by. I said call and get updates. Not just wait. Don't wear them out, but it's reasonable to ask what's happening. What I do and I said as much. I'm not new at this either. Back to the build. As a general comment, I get that you want a roller and would make things easier. The downside to that is if you have wheels then you have tires and the aging clock is running on those at that point. Most recommend not getting tires until as late in the build as possible. If that would really help your build, what about looking for some salvage Mustang wheels and tires? Some builders use Guniwheels. But that's an expensive option,,,

I wasn’t quoting you, this is basically what FFR told me and like I said I respect your opinion (you obviously have dealt with FFR longer than me). I don’t totally agree with it but that’s fine agreeing and respecting are two different things. Again, I feel like for the money people are spending on these kits the communication could be better. I respect the company as a whole and so far don’t have a ton of negatives. I knew the moment I posted about this issue, I would receive some contrary opinions. And I think it’s good for a company to hear different opinions and what different customers think. That’s healthy if they look at the feedback in a constructive manner.

What’s funny about the wheels and tires is FFR recommended I do that. So yes that is an option, but does require some work on my end, I plan on having a go part by 8 months from start of build. So I’m not totally worried about the tires. What I am a little worried about is having a motor sit around for 6 months in the southern humidity. Tires are somewhat cheap compared to a crate motor. I’m leaning towards just installing the motor on jack stands if the wheels turn out to be a lot longer. I’m hoping for an email telling me the wheels are on the way.

My overall build is progressing at a spirited pace. I’m probably putting in 30 hours per week which includes prep, utube, forum and building. I’m actually trying to look into paint and body work, most everyone has a year or more waiting list. If anyone has a good shop around Mooresville I’m all ears. I know about Whitby, but he won’t return emails or phone calls.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Can anyone tell me if the headlight pull out two position switch is two position for high and low beams? My kit came with another push switch it states is the high beam switch?

First detent is parking lights, second detent is headlights. Use the on/on push switch to toggle between high beams and low beams. The headlight switch can be configured to either leave the parking lights on when the headlights are activated or turn them off...builder's choice.

Jeff

[Reddrig]

First detent is parking lights, second detent is headlights. Use the on/on push switch to toggle between high beams and low beams. The headlight switch can be configured to either leave the parking lights on when the headlights are activated or turn them off...builder's choice.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff, makes sense.

[Reddrig]

I went with the standard layout for the dash, no problem on the nice clean cuts on the holes. I’m going to have a few more buttons below with two turn signal buttons. Once I get everything cut, I will use a 2k clear coat and do some buffing for a nice finish. Ordered chrome silver high beam and horn buttons to keep everything uniform. Also waiting for the steering wheel cutout bezel.

I love working with the dash gives you real sense of the character of the car to be. It looks like everyone is just mounting straight on the curve of the dash support. The curve is fairly accurate. If anyone has heard of anything different please let me know. The glovebox is next.

[cv2065]

I love working with the dash gives you real sense of the character of the car to be. It looks like everyone is just mounting straight on the curve of the dash support. The curve is fairly accurate. If anyone has heard of anything different please let me know. The glovebox is next.

Depends on your mounting method. If you are going with visible mounting screws to the hoop, every car is a little different. I would assume the MKV has improved a bit in this regard, but best practice is to fit the body then scribe where your dash mounting bolts need to be and if additional brackets are needed. If not, it could still work out but you risk the chance of your mounting bolts getting hidden by the body which will make access difficult if needed.

[Reddrig]

Depends on your mounting method. If you are going with visible mounting screws to the hoop, every car is a little different. I would assume the MKV has improved a bit in this regard, but best practice is to fit the body then scribe where your dash mounting bolts need to be and if additional brackets are needed. If not, it could still work out but you risk the chance of your mounting bolts getting hidden by the body which will make access difficult if needed.

Thanks for the advice cv, I was leaning that direction anyway. I’m getting ready to clear the dash now. I’m going to leave it unmounted until the body goes so I don’t back myself into a corner. Thanks

[Reddrig]

So I finished cutting the lower portion of the dash for IG, Horn, TS, HB and Headlights. Started mocking the glovebox up. I didn’t like the bare metal pieces showing when you open the box, to me it seems unfinished (looks green, but is a bronze). So back to my garage powder coating which has now paid for itself 10 times over. Finished all the small parts and backing plate.

I hit the dash with a 2K Gloss clear, cleaned it well and the sealed up my make shift booth and did 4 coats 8 min apart. Seems to have turned out great, this 2K leaves a lot of Orange peel so I’ll wet sand and buff in a few days.

I’ve ordered a new Horn and HB switch in silver to match my turn signals. So everything should be uniform.

[Reddrig]

Worked on the dash to get the final layout. Still need to polish another hour to get some more depth out of the clear, but I’m happy so far with the progress. I will say the glove box is a pain in the butt to get adjusted. The dash had four layers of clear, wet sanded and polished. The two Silver Horn and HB switches are on order. I’m holding off on final mounting until the body goes back on. I might use a couple pieces of Velcro as temporary holding spots while I work on wiring, I’ll remove them and use screws for final mounting.

[rponfick]

I think I remember you indicating you were going to use some other turn signal function. I see you made no provision for the stalk in your mockup. Will you use the old-style toggle switch, or something more exotic?
Ralph

[Reddrig]

I think I remember you indicating you were going to use some other turn signal function. I see you made no provision for the stalk in your mockup. Will you use the old-style toggle switch, or something more exotic?
Ralph

They are actually in the row below, the last two silver are time canceling turn signals. They have an adjustable 0 to 60 second timed switch once hit.

[rickster991]

Very nice. Have you powered them up? I ordered the silver buttons as well with blue light. I just saw a thread where the gauges light up red! That would be bad…

[Reddrig]

Very nice. Have you powered them up? I ordered the silver buttons as well with blue light. I just saw a thread where the gauges light up red! That would be bad…

The turn signals are white when lit, the horn and HB will be blue when lit. Ya I’m not to fond of red! I haven’t wired anything yet. The turn signals have to be wired with the timer. I’m kind of laying out my harness at the moment.

[Tango]

That’s looking really good.

[Reddrig]

I used some hook and loop to temporarily mount the dash. I wanted to see what I’m working with for future wring and space. Since this is my first build I don’t really have any perspective. I have a few questions for mark 4 or 5 builds.

1. I know people have custom brackets made for support, any ideas for the MV?

2. These small aluminum pieces came with the dash, I assume they add some rigidity by mounting the wings or corners to the frame. You can see them in my last picture. When you fold the wing past the door hinges it does provide a lot of rigidity to the carbon dash. Does this look correct for you more experienced builders?

3. I’m assuming when wiring the dash most of you just temporarily mount the dash when working on the wiring?

[Tango]

Here is an approach that I am trying out with the MV & CF Dash.….I identified 4 vertical areas behind the dash which are free of gauges. I drilled and tapped holes on the bottom of the hoop. (it was actually easier to drill a small pilot hole from the top clear through the bottom of the hoop, then comeback with the correct size hole from the bottom, and then tap it. I then ran a segment of threaded rod into those holes which extends down just shy of the flap on the base of the dash. Attached a “coupling nut” to both ends of the threaded rod, one is to lock it to the hoop (could have been a normal nut there), the other is to accept a black flat head socket screw which passes through the bottom of the flap on the back of the dash. I think it will work nicely but we will see, still working the kinks out.216959216958 (the other bar in the second pic is securing the grab handle to the frame in a similar “coupling nut” manner.)

[Reddrig]

Here is an approach that I am trying out with the MV & CF Dash.….I identified 4 vertical areas behind the dash which are free of gauges. I drilled and tapped holes on the bottom of the hoop. (it was actually easier to drill a small pilot hole from the top clear through the bottom of the hoop, then comeback with the correct size hole from the bottom, and then tap it. I then ran a segment of threaded rod into those holes which extends down just shy of the flap on the base of the dash. Attached a “coupling nut” to both ends of the threaded rod, one is to lock it to the hoop (could have been a normal nut there), the other is to accept a black flat head socket screw which passes through the bottom of the flap on the back of the dash. I think it will work nicely but we will see, still working the kinks out.216959216958 (the other bar in the second pic is securing the grab handle to the frame in a similar “coupling nut” manner.)

Very interesting and cool approach, I’m excited to see it completed. Thanks for the idea, I’m going to start brainstorming.

[Reddrig]

Called FFR today after pulling my hair out trying to locate missing foot box panels (outer right and left panel). The 30th Anniversary came with anodized and regular panels. All of the anodized were just wrapped and loaded in the chassis for delivery. So one of the panels actually had the same number as the smaller front foot box panel. So identification was confusing to say the least. I went to seal up my foot box and noticed these two panels were missing. (Would not have figured this out during my inventory)

I emailed FFR and was told the first few kits were delivered without these panels because the panel guy thought these were anodized so they were left out. So I guess it took me finally figuring it out myself and notifying them before they would take action. I’m still wondering if they knew they were not included why they didn’t just send them?

For you Anniversary kit owners:

Since I was on the phone with them I was also told there was another delay in the wheels. I asked did the ship sink, I’ve been told they were in the ocean (freighter) for the last month. He told me he wasn’t sure they had actually shipped from the manufacturer now. So I’m left super confused and frustrated. He said they expect them in late August now. I asked if that was a hard date, he did know. Late August will be almost three months with no wheels and no hard date for delivery.

I’ll repeat what I’ve said in prior post, I’m a big fan of FFR. But i still feel they just don’t relay information, it’s almost like the Sienfeld episode “No soup for you”. I asked if FFR was unable to deliver the wheels after three months did they have a back up plan for fulfilling the 60 anniversary edition orders. He stated no they didn’t, he told me the wheels on their 30th car were painted bronze because they couldn’t even get a set from the manufacturer. This was different from the first person I talked to a month ago, he said they had to get there set air freighted because they were having such a hard time getting the wheels.

I’m sharing this information for other 30th kit owners. I will keep my fingers crossed reference the wheels, but so far it’s been numerous stories and not a lot of reliable information. I’ll keep updating my thread on the wheels.

[Homer]

I had the same 2 panels missing in mine along with 2 more, the "Cockpit Trans Side, Right & Left." It is confusing that the part numbers on the inventory sheets didn't match what is in the build manual which makes it difficult. They sent all 4 panels out right way, only problem, they weren't anodized black, not a huge deal for the cockpit trans panels but would've liked the footbox outside walls to be. I'm going to just powder coat them black myself, I think I have the same Eastwood powder coat system you have. Still getting the hang of it.

I don't have the wheels but I'm not in a rush for them either. I bought 4 wheels when I was at the FFR Open House in June, they had an amazing deal on some older 17" rims so I bought them and put some cheaper tires on them to use as a roller until the permanent ones arrive.

[Reddrig]

I had the same 2 panels missing in mine along with 2 more, the "Cockpit Trans Side, Right & Left." It is confusing that the part numbers on the inventory sheets didn't match what is in the build manual which makes it difficult. They sent all 4 panels out right way, only problem, they weren't anodized black, not a huge deal for the cockpit trans panels but would've liked the footbox outside walls to be. I'm going to just powder coat them black myself, I think I have the same Eastwood powder coat system you have. Still getting the hang of it.

I don't have the wheels but I'm not in a rush for them either. I bought 4 wheels when I was at the FFR Open House in June, they had an amazing deal on some older 17" rims so I bought them and put some cheaper tires on them to use as a roller until the permanent ones arrive.

I actually inquired about the same issue of the panels not being anodized and was told they don’t show so they were never supposed to be anodized. That doesn’t make since either, but I guess it’s just another confusing pill I’ll swallow. At least they shipped yours.

I guess I’m left with no options, but to try and find some donor wheels since it could be another month (not holding my breath) or multiple months before I see wheels. Dave from FFR did say he would look at some options for me and call me back. I’ll keep you updated.

[Reddrig]

Spent the day doing the last round of polish on the dash, and added the chrome buttons (Easter egg on the buttons). I also cut my top panel on the tunnel, the bottom half will be removable for access. The seam is hidden under the dash, I think this will work out well. The top half has my loom pass through straight into the firewall piece I added (did not come with the kit). I will also have a small Bluetooth stereo 3” x 3” receiver flush mounted in this area. The Wildwood ebrake will be to the left of the shifter.

[Reddrig]

Busy few days with passenger side Kilmat install, the stuff is fairly easy to work with and forgiving. Make sure to leave your foot boxes open so you don’t have to contort your body 80 ways. My father in law did most of the Kilmat. Mocked up the stereo I’ll never hear, but I like having one anyway. Marine Kicker head unit fits nice along with a small 100 Watt pocket amp and two 6.5” speakers in the rear. Not a lot of room to work with for the speakers so measure well and look at the hole required for your speakers.

The Wildwood electric breaking system is completely wired and installed. I redid the middle tunnel since I don’t need the ebrake handle, looking to do some cup holders also. But here are some pictures, motor is on a truck headed my way.

[rponfick]

Busy few days with passenger side Kilmat install, the stuff is fairly easy to work with and forgiving. Make sure to leave your foot boxes open so you don’t have to contort your body 80 ways. My father in law did most of the Kilmat. Mocked up the stereo I’ll never hear, but I like having one anyway. Marine Kicker head unit fits nice along with a small 100 Watt pocket amp and two 6.5” speakers in the rear. Not a lot of room to work with for the speakers so measure well and look at the hole required for your speakers.

The Wildwood electric breaking system is completely wired and installed. I redid the middle tunnel since I don’t need the ebrake handle, looking to do some cup holders also. But here are some pictures, motor is on a truck headed my way.

I installed the carpet at the same time as heat/sound mat in those footwell panels, as they appear difficult to get to once panels riveted in place. Especially those outer footbox walls. Just something to think about.
Ralph

[Reddrig]

Big day for me, the stage 2 427 arrived in one piece and in great shape. Got the wood removed from the frame and have it ready to be lifted out of the cradle. Waiting for some donor wheels to arrive before it goes in the car. I’m guessing Monday or Tuesday for the install date. Blueprint was easy to work with and James was good at getting me the information I needed. This is the second motor I’ve used from them.

I’m not sure if any Mark V owners can add some pointers on the trans mount and any spacers that were needed for DL angle? Any other tips from Mark V owners on install would be appreciated?

[Reddrig]

I installed the carpet at the same time as heat/sound mat in those footwell panels, as they appear difficult to get to once panels riveted in place. Especially those outer footbox walls. Just something to think about.
Ralph

Thanks for the advise on the carpet, I’ll definitely put those carpet pieces in before I seal it for good. I was actually missing a few carpet pieces I’m waiting for.

[rickster991]

I’m not sure if any Mark V owners can add some pointers on the trans mount and any spacers that were needed for DL angle? Any other tips from Mark V owners on install would be appreciated?

My engine arrives tomorrow. I should be installing it in the next few days.

[Tango]

MK5 + G4x Coyote + TKX. I needed 2 small spacers on each side to get a drive line within acceptable angles. It was not at all difficult to measure or adjust. The “bubble level” app on an IPhone was surprisingly easier to use than my Kline digital angle level.

[UKSNAKE]

REDDRIG, your build looks great and really quick. You obviously know what you are doing. Im a few months behind you with number 15 of 30th anniversary. Im learning a lot about what to do and patience. Thank you.

[Reddrig]

REDDRIG, your build looks great and really quick. You obviously know what you are doing. Im a few months behind you with number 15 of 30th anniversary. Im learning a lot about what to do and patience. Thank you.

I appreciate the kind words, I honestly rely on the forum a lot. I’m getting ready to drop my motor in tomorrow. Just take one bite at a time, I try and research my next part of the build before I start that piece. My memory sucks, so it helps me keep a focus on the task at hand or I tend to see a squirrel.

[Reddrig]

Engine went in today, I will add a plus one to Ricks experience. My boom at the 1/2 ton setting was not long enough for a front entry, had to use the back door (side door). From the side it went in relatively easy with a little muscle to push the drivers side mount over about 1/2” to sit in the cradle and line the pins up. Didn’t break anything or mangle anything.

I spoke to Dan at FFR, he was mystified we are all having trouble with the front entry and the boom being to short. He said they used a standard 2 ton HF hoist to install the one they did on the video.

Either way I got it in. I’m a little shocked at just how tight the bay is with the engine in, my overflow canister is to tight by 1/8” of an inch. I’ll need to come up with another plan for that since the FFR overflow won’t fit with my fan shroud. I also wanted a little larger to pair with the 427.

I also have a loose install (bolts not tight) with the trans mount and driveshaft. Setting ride height tomorrow so I can see what my angle looks like. If anyone has some pointers on pinion angle let me know. It seems hard to get angles with the short driveshaft.

A few pictures of engine in.

[BUDFIVE]

Reddrig, that looks great!
On driveline angle measurements-
1) for the pinion angle I found it easiest to measure on the face of the driveshaft adapter then subtract from 90. This is without the driveshaft.
2) For the driveshaft angle, I cut a piece of 3/4” steel square tube that was the length of the driveshaft including its ujoint “ears”. Then I spun the driveshaft till its ears were straight up and down, placed the square tube on top of both ears, spanning the length of the driveshaft and measured the angle with a magnetic angle gauge.
3) for engine angle I placed the same square tube and magnetic gauge on the vertical front of the harmonic damper, measured and again subtracted from 90.
Since you are trying to calculate ujoint angles, you can use the absolute measurement on the gauge and ignore the angle of the vehicle-it gets canceled when subtracting dshaft angle from pinion angle and engine angle from dshaft angle.

[Reddrig]

I’ve been slowing down to make sure I get all the motor/driveline stuff correct. Needed to shim my transmission approx 1/4”, bled the Clutch master cylinder and added fluid to the transmission. All of that was fairly easy. Since I have an IRS car, pinion angle is stationary or at least described by Dave at Factory Five. He said you want approx 1 degree at the driveshaft, he said your driveshaft should look almost straight from the trans tail to the Diff.

I’m using the Lokar throttle cable with the Lokar bracket for the Sniper 2, not cheap but a vast improvement over the supplied throttle stuff. Works nice and smooth. I’m waiting for some transmission lines from Mark at Breeze, he put together something for the new Mark 5. I’ll let you guys know how they turn out. He might add this to his catalog if they work well. The supplied lines were 5’ too long, maybe. 2’ but they were ridiculous.

Added my first carpet pieces to the passenger side foot box outer panel before I riveted it. It was much easier adding the carpet with the panel off.

Clutch has a nice feel and TKX feels nice during shifts. Wiring starts tomorrow, going to really focus on the wiring. I hate electrical problems later. I’ll keep everyone updated.

[rponfick]

lReddrig, I see you are going to start the wiring fun. I notice you are using the push button turn signals that I am using also.

I notice in the assembly manual (page 504) that the taillight converter is not used with the column turn signal switch on the MK5. Since we are not using the provided turn signal switch, do we need to get a converter from FFR and use it in our build? The manual continues with how to wire up the converter, so is that what we do without the provided turn signal switch. The turn signal switch must somehow perform the function of the converter.

The Ron Francis Chassis Wiring Harness book indicates the converter was started in 2019 when FFR went to the rectangular LED taillights. The converter must have been necessary for the LED's, but the turn signal now must somehow accomplish this function.

I am a bit electrically challenged, so I will be following your wise counsel.

Ralph

[Reddrig]

lReddrig, I see you are going to start the wiring fun. I notice you are using the push button turn signals that I am using also.

I notice in the assembly manual (page 504) that the taillight converter is not used with the column turn signal switch on the MK5. Since we are not using the provided turn signal switch, do we need to get a converter from FFR and use it in our build? The manual continues with how to wire up the converter, so is that what we do without the provided turn signal switch. The turn signal switch must somehow perform the function of the converter.

The Ron Francis Chassis Wiring Harness book indicates the converter was started in 2019 when FFR went to the rectangular LED taillights. The converter must have been necessary for the LED's, but the turn signal now must somehow accomplish this function.

I am a bit electrically challenged, so I will be following your wise counsel.

Ralph

So I bench tested my turn signals about two weeks ago. The system is stand alone and only requires direct wiring to the signals, so in short I believe it can be wired directly into the harness for full function nothing else required. The timer worked perfectly when I tested it, I did run it through a flasher relay which also worked. I’m no electrician either, but I think I can get this done with the RF harness. Ill keep you up to date on progress and tips if I have any.

[2nd2none]

Did you ask for those specific valve covers? I was looking going with that same package and on their website it says it includes "Ford Racing 427 Cobra aluminum valve covers".

[Reddrig]

I dont think they are doing the other valve covers anymore. You can obviously change them if you like.

[Reddrig]

I keep chugging along, I slowed down to do some housekeeping. I’ve been fighting a brutal summer in NC with lots of humidity and rust. I finally was able to get my build on the lift which helped me tidy some stuff up. Powder coated various fittings like sway bar bare metal stuff and some other bare metal parts.

Breeze automotive sent over my PS lines which I assembled and installed (ten times better than the 4’ section supplied by FF) Also finished up the fuel line, return less setup connected to a pressure guage and fuel dampener. Bottom coolant line is hooked up, used the corrugated with 2” heat shrink along with t clamps and standard clamps, used the rivet trick to prevent blowout. Waiting for my top section from Boig Motorsports. Connected the alternator, ran the wiring through my top channel for more wire concealment. My bottom transmission cover piece has worked well, much sturdier and tidy than mounting stuff to the upper firewall.

Overflow Canton canister is a tight fit, but should work out fine. Two rivnuts in the frame provides a secure mount.

[Reddrig]

Thought I would post some random shots from the bottom if any new mark 5 builders need reference.

[UKSNAKE]

Looks great coating those parts on post #25. I should have thought of that as also have the 30th. Im 15 of 30. WHat is the long metal part that you coated used for. I have it but didnt see it in the instructions anywhere yet. Thanks as always for your brilliant build thread.

[Reddrig]

Looks great coating those parts on post #25. I should have thought of that as also have the 30th. Im 15 of 30. WHat is the long metal part that you coated used for. I have it but didnt see it in the instructions anywhere yet. Thanks as always for your brilliant build thread.

I’m #11, not sure which part you’re referring to? Congrats on 15, hope we get our wheels soon! Have you heard anything?

[Reddrig]

Went to Trump National in Mooresville today for a local show. One of the community members brought out his Narrow Hip 66 Shelby Cobra, it was just shipped back from Pebble Beach where it took 4th. Apparently only 32 of the narrow hip versions were made.

[Reddrig]

Spent some time working on wiring. Sniper, Radio/Amp, FI, Ebrake and main harness all with power. Need to run a few sensors and lighting and I should be good to go. Front passenger side headers in, rest of the exhaust early next week. Used PDM with built in relays which helped clean up some wiring, didn’t need to mount relays in the engine compartment. Also has two switched terminals for accessories. Very happy with the PDM so far.

[Reddrig]

Received my upper Radiator tube from Boig Motorsports. This was the stock Mark 4 upper, Boig sent me some different attachment hoses to make sure fit was good. It looks really nice and fits good, he’s going to work on a lower for me in the near future. My canton cap is large but looks OK, it’s super easy to grab which I like.

Exhaust system is in, did a temporary mount to the frame in case it needs to be moved. Exhaust was fairly easy to install. I’m going to get a seat in soon. Engine fire soon.

[Reddrig]

Big day, fired up the motor. A few comments on the first start. I was not able to get oil pressure to show on my mechanical Guage during pre lube with no plugs in, when you go to crank the Guages have no power but once it returns to run the Guages have power. Was a little odd, but when the motor fired it immediately showed pressure.

I did put two of my plug wires on the wrong cylinder on the first start (I’m an idiot), it won’t run well like that. Figured that out quickly, fixed the wires and started and idled ok. I’m sure it needs to be under load and driving to start smoothing out. One thing I noticed was the O2 sensor is straight up and down on the FFR headers because of the bung location, all the literature wants it at a slight angle? Not sure if this is a huge deal?

All my mechanical Guages are functioning correctly, so the wiring was done correctly. The PDM Holly makes helped with the wiring making it almost idiot proof and also contained two internal relays for the fan and fuel pump.

61 constant PSI with my returnless setup, the dampener seems to provide very consistent pressure with no bumps.

Breeze fan shroud and flex a lite fan held the temp rock solid at 185. Funny thing is I had went through the start up wizard before my first start and saved the file, but my fan setting from the previous day were gone. I had to set the fan on and off temps again since I’m controlling my fan with the Sniper. Hope they are saving correctly. The fan settings don’t seem to be associated with the file for startup.

So far I was a 100% on no leaks, no radiator blow outs yet and no other leaks identified. Very happy day, will start go kart soon.

https://youtu.be/nFeR-Q0yC0Q

https://youtu.be/grRe-V17nKE

[rickster991]

Congrats!

[Reddrig]

Well today opened a new era (Go Kart)! Fired the her up on the driveway, checked most of the systems and gave my partner the go ahead I was going for a drive. The alignment was way off (I’ll buy someone a steak dinner that is good with basic alignments) just come over and get me in the ballpark. The Mark V drove without a hitch. The motor gets better every time I drive it and the Sniper 2 goes through its learning curve. Put approx 10 miles on it today (I was quickly running out of gas). The Wildwood brakes were awesome with the brake booster, I’m glad FFR talked me into it now. I’m really like the Wildwood electric ebrake also.

I installed the front seat yesterday, after speaking with Mark at Breeze I opted to cut some 3/16 steel to make spacers to raise the seat. So I made 3/4” spacers for the front and 1/2” spacers for the rear. I have the adjustable seat rails which raised it slightly already, the slight rake also helps with comfort. I managed to hit three frame points on the seat install. My seat position seems to work for 6’2 down to 5’8. This seems to be the comfort range without getting to extremes on both ends.

My canton 2 Quart overflow tank has been nice. My PW steering pump is still whining a little but seems to be getting quieter as I bleed. The power brakes are soooo nice. Looking back the little extra work and loss of space was worth it. The Upper radiator tube from Boig is also a great piece.

I did have a drop of oil appear from the drivers side valve cover. It’s from the rear lower corner. Replaced the cork with a rubber gasket from Felpro, never been a fan of the cork. No other leaks to report other than that.

I need to rethink my shifter height or angle, too high for me at the moment. My test wheels and tires look a little bit out of place, still haven’t received my anniversary wheels and tires. I guess that’s a good thing since my alignment is off.

https://youtu.be/XbSd3uwj35E
https://youtu.be/bCLYncIkITM
https://youtu.be/mgm_Qnw8WJA

[rickster991]

Nice! Congrats!

[rickster991]

I had the same issue. BP sent me new valve covers/gaskets. You have a link for the gaskets you used?

[Reddrig]

I had the same issue. BP sent me new valve covers/gaskets. You have a link for the gaskets you used?

So far it’s not working either, still expunged a drop or two overnight. Annoying.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CNJ4A2?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

[Tango]

Congrats on your start! Mine was just a few weeks ago. I too love that parking brake. About your alignment……I got mine really close….not perfect…but close-ish using a super economical set up off of amazon, not that expensive maybe 30 bucks. Here are the links for what I used. I will get a proper alignment at some point but this gets it close.

2 items:
Toolwiz Magnetic Gauge Tool... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B5YZPGLR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
KodMtiz Wheel Alignment Tool,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DFXQCZW1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

[Reddrig]

Congrats on your start! Mine was just a few weeks ago. I too love that parking brake. About your alignment……I got mine really close….not perfect…but close-ish using a super economical set up off of amazon, not that expensive maybe 30 bucks. Here are the links for what I used. I will get a proper alignment at some point but this gets it close.

2 items:
Toolwiz Magnetic Gauge Tool... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B5YZPGLR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
KodMtiz Wheel Alignment Tool,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DFXQCZW1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


Heck ya! I’ll give it a try, for that price if it gets me close I’ll be happy. Thank You!

[Reddrig]

Quick update, I’ve got both the drivers and passenger seats mounted. Mark at Breeze had some suggestions for my seats. I took his advise and am really happy with how everything turned out. The drivers seat is slightly higher than the passenger seat. I cut some steel stand offs to raise the seats on the sliding rails and through bolted to the frame, I also added a slight angle to recline the seat. You can see the range of adjustability in the pictures.

I used one of Marks seat brackets for the passenger seat which ads a slight recline to the seat. I’ll be pulling them both out shorty for carpet and have everything (brackets) powder coated. My wife committed on how comfortable the passenger seat was.

[Reddrig]

Finished up some interior/carpet work in the cockpit. The FFR carpet turned out nice, the two aluminum panels will be wrapped in leather. The carpet was a lot of work, just took my time. Had to trim a lot to get proper fit for the seems. My speakers fit perfectly, even matched the bronze lettering to the frame on the speaker covers.

The trunk area is next for remaining panels, carpet and fit. I’m wondering if any Mark 5 owners have installed the rear elephant ears/splash guards, for some reason I can’t seem to understand how they fit, it’s hurting my brain(PLEASE HELP)!

Continued testing and learning phase for the motor, had to add a stiffer throttle spring for a crisper return on the throttle.

https://youtu.be/mFmKdoua2B0

[David Hodgkins]

Really coming together!! Lookin' REAL GOOD!!!

:)

[Reddrig]

Really coming together!! Lookin' REAL GOOD!!!

:)

Thanks David, coincidentally I worked for 25 Years in Newport Beach. Great place to live!

[Mike.Bray]

Thanks David, coincidentally I worked for 25 Years in Newport Beach. Great place to live!

My favorite place in Newport Beach is the Crab Cooker! I wonder if it's still there.

[rickster991]

Very nice! You have a picture of the speaker install from the trunk side?

[Reddrig]

My favorite place in Newport Beach is the Crab Cooker! I wonder if it's still there.

Yep still there was shut down for a while for underground water intrusion.

[Reddrig]

Very nice! You have a picture of the speaker install from the trunk side?

Here you go Rick, I will say you need to very accurate with your cut. Not a lot of clearance between the top bar and bottom. Measure twice cut once.

[rickster991]

Nice. Will do!

[Reddrig]

Finishing up the trunk carpet, chose to use some wood shop skills to frame the drop down cubby. Used a curly maple and stained it to a close match on the wheel. I powder coated the access covers, but I’m thinking of doing some in Carbon Fiber to match the dash to tie everything together.

The carpet required a fair amount of trimming and massaging. Used 3m Adhesive and Wedldwood glue on the carpet depending on the aplication and piece. More driving next week and I’m still waiting to see if anyone mounted the rear splash guards on the rear yet? I need a picture.

[rickster991]

Very nice…

[Reddrig]

My interior is 90% finished, I’m still trying to massage some of the leather to get a little crease out. But I’m very happy with the results, this was my vision when I started my build. The Mark V makes placement of dash articles, radio, Ebrake and Sniper controls hard because of all the bracing. So you need to pick you accessories careful keeping in mind the limitations behind the panels.

Both tunnel panels are removable, which I wanted in case of maintenance down the road. The top panel under the dash was cut in half so I could remove it easier out from underneath the dash, the cut line is above any visual sight.

Diamond stitch is matching to the seats and eventual door panels. The Shifter ball will eventually be an Olive wood ball with the shift pattern engraved in the wood.

Seat belts were somewhat challenging on the passenger side, had to remove the seat since I could not access the mounts on the floor. The drivers side seat was simple since the seat is on tracks.

All in all I’m very happy, I was after a my version of a Restomod look. I wanted to keep it somewhat subtle but have some eye catching definition. Finally I did a function check, all systems were functioning. Going to turn my attention to the body soon before I start thinking of paint. Hope the photos inspire others with Mark V’s.

[rponfick]

Looking really good. Thanks for the support to the rest of us MK5 builders.

[2nd2none]

Everything about that interior looks incredible! Great job

[Nigel Allen]

Terrific job. Your vision turned out perfectly. I could look at that interior all day.

Cheers,

Nige

[RobHartley]

I think I am modelling my interior off of yours, its beautiful. How did you mount the tunnel panels for accessibility?

[Reddrig]

I think I am modelling my interior off of yours, its beautiful. How did you mount the tunnel panels for accessibility?

So the top panel is cut in half which makes it lighter and easier to get out without moving the dash. Really no trick, the bottom panel sits flush and will have two black SS screws holding it in place which actually holds it snug. The top piece naturally sits over the front piece lip, that piece has two more screws on the side holding it. These four screws actually hold everything nice. The last part is my radio sits on the cross bar under the panel which provides an another natural layer of support when the radio is in the panel. So the panel can’t slip down.

[Reddrig]

I ran into a bad situation yesterday and today. I removed my pipes and completed my body install which was fairly straightforward. I went to work on my pipes first after installing the body. Drivers side actually fit perfect in the pre cut outs, it needs a little trim for clearance but fit was great.

I moved to the passenger and immediately noticed it was almost three inches high in order to mount the pipe to the coupler. I thought that’s weird, so I checked all my engine mounts and body mounts to make sure I wasn’t crazy. I then trimmed approx an 1/8” away from the cutout to attempt to make it work. At this point I knew something was really not ok. Starred at it all day and racked my brain, I finally called FFR and spoke to Dave.

I started to tell him what was going on, before I finished he asked if it was to high which I replied yes. Apparently the passenger side 351 headers are not correct or bad specs from the vendor which FFR was aware of. I’ve talked about the lack of communication before in my thread, if FFR was aware why not let potentially affected customers know this could be a problem. It would have saved me hours of time, more scratches on my pipes from messing with flanges, pipes and couplers trying to make what turned out to be an impossible connection.

I was told they will get back to me in a few days for a fix, the only fix is new headers or at least passenger side. I’m praying this won’t be months and months waiting for a header. I’m dead in the water at this point with no estimate from FFR.

This was somewhat demoralizing after spending the last four months 6 hours a day to get to this point for this to kill my progress. On a positive not my wheels and tires are supposed to ship next week after four months.

For all you builders with a 351 Mark V, I would check your headers carefully.

[Reddrig]

Just another update since I’ve received a few emails and messages about the build. I’ve been finishing up some panel adjustment and lighting getting ready for the NC registration process hopefully. Paint will soon follow.

I’m still waiting for an answer from FFR engineering on what the fix is for the mis aligned passenger side header. I called again today and asked for a new header, but was told it’s with engineering and they can’t send another header. Which would indicate this problem might be widespread affecting every 351 based passenger side header they have shipped on Mark V kits.

In my very average size brain, the only fix can be a new header or some very bendy flange joint. I’m really frustrated this late in my build this is an issue, FFR is responsive in the fact they tell me it’s being worked on. But based on information about past problems, I’m a little scared this could be additional months of waiting which would be devastating since I will have waited six months for a paint appointment and need to get my registration process started.

So far FFR has been good and worked with my issues, I’m really keeping my fingers crossed this is a quick response and fix from FFR.

[Reddrig]

This was a follow up to questions about the dash placement on the Mark V. I originally used three screws to hold the dash in place during my build, I followed the contour of the bend with my dash during original mounting. The left and right corners were flush with the metal top, the center was approx half way on between the metal upon my original estimate. It turned out to be perfect with this orientation, none of the screws are visible with the body on. Getting the dash of might be difficult
, but I’m very happy with the orientation

.219874

[Reddrig]

Another update, FFR is supposed to get back to me with a fix for the passenger side Header mis alignment tomorrow. Been roughing in the hood, trunk and other body parts. No real surprises, the hood fits like a glove, the trunk has a slight bow to it. But all in all not bad fit for no trimming at all. I’m probably going to let the painter do all the final fit. The hood and scoop was sort of a challenge because everything is not perfectly molded if you know what I mean. So a lot of measuring and eye test. Sometimes the eye test is the final deciding factor since measurements can be tough on irregular items.

Doors are next and then back to the exhaust and window probably before the doors.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Regarding your trunk fit...take a look underneath and see of the pivot ends of the trunk hinge arms are contacting the underside of the rear deck ahead of the trunk lid and raising it upwards. This was the case on the first cars and although we reported it I don't know if it was addressed. If you find that there is contact just grind down the radius at the end of the arms so that it doesn't protrude beyond the chassis hinge tabs.

Yes, fit the windshield before the doors.

Jeff

[Reddrig]

Regarding your trunk fit...take a look underneath and see of the pivot ends of the trunk hinge arms are contacting the underside of the rear deck ahead of the trunk lid and raising it upwards. This was the case on the first cars and although we reported it I don't know if it was addressed. If you find that there is contact just grind down the radius at the end of the arms so that it doesn't protrude beyond the chassis hinge tabs.

Yes, fit the windshield before the doors.

Jeff
Jeff thanks for the info, that makes a lot of since. I already noticed the radius was touching.

[Reddrig]

Posted a quick walk around of the progress.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ngHywMI970

[rickster991]

Very nice!

[rickster991]

Quick question in your sniper screen mount. Does that allow you to remove it and use it from the mount? Where did you get it? I was going to tuck it away, or go with Bluetooth, but I like your placement. Thanks!

[Reddrig]

Yes you can pull it out from the mount. Guy 3D prints them on Etsy. Just search for Sniper mount and it should show up.

[Reddrig]

I had to throw the real wheels on after getting the windshield installed. So I’m going to work on the doors next and attempt to get it registered and titled. Then I will go over my to do list and pull the body off again for last minute inspections and tweaks. Drive for a few months and then off to paint in January or February.

Factory Five custom made me a ball flange to make the Header work for now, I’ll get the new header when available. The gap is to large on the passenger side but should be corrected when the new header arrives. Dan V and Travis worked hard to get me this piece, I appreciate the effort.

[Blitzboy54]

How on earth did you finish this so fast?!?!?!

Looks incredible and I am super jealous of that MKV body.

[Reddrig]

How on earth did you finish this so fast?!?!?!

Looks incredible and I am super jealous of that MKV body.

I’m retired and sort of treated it like a full time jib and my father in law helped also. As it sits it was still 4 1/2 months. So by the time I get the doors sorted and everything else, I’m looking at approx 5 1/2 months. Probably 3 to 5 hours a day, not including research.

[Reddrig]

This is a update to my build thread:

NC title and registration was a piece of cake. Took half a day with a visit to the Troopers for VIN verification and then a trip to the tag office for registration and title.

FFR was able to create a ball and flange socket for the passenger side header until I receive the new header sometime in the future.

I’ve really started opening up the beast 427 with spirited drives on backroads and some freeway tours. No problems with any major systems at this point.

Got the car professionally aligned in town. The car is so tight and handles like a dream, the one complaint is the steering is so light with PS it lacks feedback. I’m sure I will get used to it, but it’s a little strange.

Since I received the BP motor I had a pesky leak from the drivers side lower back corner valve cover. I purchased some Ansen covers that sealed up great and no leak anymore. Both sets of covers were torqued the same and had same gaskets. I REALLY LIKE THE ANSEN COVERS!

The body will come off in a few weeks for final work and the replaced prior to going to paint and body work. Here are a few pics.

[rickster991]

Nice! Congrats!

[edwardb]

Looks good. Congratulations on getting it driving. There are options for limiting the boost on your power steering. I don't know what pump BP installed, but some allow a spring to be cut reducing the pressure. I don't have experience. Only citing what others have described. Another option is an in-line valve from Heidts that some have installed.

[Reddrig]

Looks good. Congratulations on getting it driving. There are options for limiting the boost on your power steering. I don't know what pump BP installed, but some allow a spring to be cut reducing the pressure. I don't have experience. Only citing what others have described. Another option is an in-line valve from Heidts that some have installed.

Thanks, I was going to ask this question next. Hopefully others will chime in on options, it’s so light and not a natural feeling. I will say it works perfectly, I could turn the wheel with a toothpick.

I’m open to trying one of these options, hopefully someone can provide some concrete feedback on their experience.

[Jeff Kleiner]

First question…when it was aligned what was the caster set to? Second question…did Blueprint install a Ford or a GM Saginaw pump? Answer these and we can help answer you!

Jeff

[Reddrig]

Been away for awhile, unfortunately had a few deaths in my family which has required a lot of travel. The Cobra has been dropped off for paint and body work. Now the wait begins for the finished product. Paint will be a deep burgundy candy red with a dark gun metal stripe. Here are a few pics dropping off the car in Ga. Michael Bowen has been very nice to deal with from Spotlight Customs. Looking at three to five months wait time.

[UKSNAKE]

Hi Reddrig

Your build looks great, I have slowed down with the cold but want to get the brake lines in. I see how the lines go to and from the booster (yup ugly silver) but do you ever have to use the other two connections on the booster for anything? The ones with the rubber caps on them.

Thank you.

[Ramjet]

Your interior looks great!!

I've been working with my dash alignment (with body off) and was curious on the ballpark placement of the dash, you looked to have it nailed perfectly. I wasn't sure how much of the top frame hoop would be exposed or how low the body comes down to cover the dash?? Unfortunately, I didn't take a measurement prior to removing my body. Lessons learned as a first-time builder. I think what I see from your build is to line up the dash level to the metal edge of the frame hoop and it will be good?

With the carbon fiber dash, did you have to trim back the body at the dash to make room for the body to slide over the dash?

Also, could you share who did your leather work on the center console, that looks amazing!!

Thanks,
Eric

[rickster991]

I dropped mine off with him yesterday. And the wait begins…

[Reddrig]

Your interior looks great!!

I've been working with my dash alignment (with body off) and was curious on the ballpark placement of the dash, you looked to have it nailed perfectly. I wasn't sure how much of the top frame hoop would be exposed or how low the body comes down to cover the dash?? Unfortunately, I didn't take a measurement prior to removing my body. Lessons learned as a first-time builder. I think what I see from your build is to line up the dash level to the metal edge of the frame hoop and it will be good?

With the carbon fiber dash, did you have to trim back the body at the dash to make room for the body to slide over the dash?

Also, could you share who did your leather work on the center console, that looks amazing!!

Thanks,
Eric
So the dash was actually easy, I just placed the CF dash against the metal bar and left enough meat to use black SS screws to attack the middle and each corner. The MV body covered the entire top lip of the dash which made the screws invisible. The body did not require any trimming it fit directly over the dash perfectly.

I had an upholstery guy I know do the center console to match my seats. But I was very happy with how it turned out.
.

[Reddrig]

So here is a walk around video of my paint in progress. Hopping to have it back in a few weeks. Then I start all the details work to get everything completed.

https://youtube.com/shorts/aEu6X5TOVi0?si=eh9QqMxQNG7_khmM

[Mike.Bray]

That's a gorgeous color! Congratulations.

[Jeff Kleiner]

So here is a walk around video of my paint in progress. Hopping to have it back in a few weeks. Then I start all the details work to get everything completed.

https://youtube.com/shorts/aEu6X5TOVi0?si=eh9QqMxQNG7_khmM

Wow! It looks a whole lot like one that I did last month!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228675&d=1777501178

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228673&d=1772255884

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228674&d=1772255884

You're gonna' love it :cool:

Jeff

228673
228674
228675

[Reddrig]

Wow! It looks a whole lot like one that I did last month!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228675&d=1777501178

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228673&d=1772255884

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228674&d=1772255884

You're gonna' love it :cool:

Jeff

228673
228674
228675

Thanks Jeff,

Mike had actually done another one in Randy Apple, I saw the one you did awhile after I committed to the color which just solidified my choice. We will see how it looks with the Bronze wheels:) I couldn’t believe the price for a gallon of that paint though! SHOCKING!!