Accelerator Pedal Install - Coyote

[PNWTim]

Just modified/cut up and tentatively installed my pedal. I am always hoping after 7 or 8 years some of these bugs would be worked out but nope, the DBW plug is directly inline with the steering shaft. Just reviewed the Coupe build manual, AKA Paul's build thread. Saw what he did with the pedal.

Small rant - this is now the second thing I have run into that is a known issue (for years!) and a relative simple fix. FF does such a great job with so many things, I don't get why they let these ride. OK, rant over.

The Lokar pedal looked like an option to avoid all this nonsense until I saw the price so back to square one. So here is my question - are there any other builders out there that have come up with another solution? I know Erik T. has built and/or worked on at least two Coyote powered coupes so I am wondering what his solution is. I'm going to let this perk a couple of days and see what kind of responses come in before I start chopping, grinding, swearing and otherwise becoming a cave troll in the foot box.

Thanks in advance.

[Tango]

Snakebite Motorworks (forum vendor) has a driver side foot box extender that kicks the lower right foot side of the foot box inward (towards center of car) a few inches giving additional clearance for the pedal. I am waiting for confirmation that it will work with the Coyote. I have a gen4x sitting right next to my frame but unfortunately it has not made it into my frame yet so I can not provide confirmation that the kit will work. On a separate note, I removed the stock accelerator pedal pad and installed 2 wilwood style pads (1 row of holes trimmed from each….I did not come up with this approach, I copied it from other builds) directly onto the accelerator with matching screws. I also bumped the other pedal pads left. I may bump the accelerator left one more row of holes but we will see. It currently clears everything but it is tight and I still have to carpet the inner wall.214652

[PNWTim]

Snakebite Motorworks (forum vendor) has a driver side foot box extender that kicks the lower right foot side of the foot box inward (towards center of car) a few inches giving additional clearance for the pedal. I am waiting for confirmation that it will work with the Coyote. I have a gen4x sitting right next to my frame but unfortunately it has not made it into my frame yet so I can not provide confirmation that the kit will work. On a separate note, I removed the stock accelerator pedal pad and installed 2 wilwood style pads (1 row of holes trimmed from each….I did not come up with this approach, I copied it from other builds) directly onto the accelerator with matching screws. I also bumped the other pedal pads left. I may bump the accelerator left one more row of holes but we will see. It currently clears everything but it is tight and I still have to carpet the inner wall.214652

Looks good. So did you move the pedal to the inboard (towards the engine) then? From what I can tell it either needs to move about 3/4" to the left or right (looking at it from the drivers seat), perhaps with a slight tilt. I have talked to Brent about his box extender but like you, my coyote is still in the crate so not sure if it will fit.

[edwardb]

For my height and foot size, what I ended up with has worked out fine. So it is possible. Not what I did (obviously...) but there was another builder recently who cut the plastic housing on the Ford DBW module enough to reorient the connector. A search should find the post. Another option maybe. Agree it's a mystery why after all this time and the multiple Coyote installations this isn't better sorted. I looked at the Lokar piece for both Coyote builds and both times the price convinced me otherwise...

[Tango]

I considered shifting the entire pedal assembly mount, but it is currently in the stock location (without using the coyote bracket). I could not figure out how to use the bracket and then realized the 2024/2025 pedal fit “perfectly” without it. In the end I do not think it is even necessary to flip the pedal pad as described in the manual. Also having really smooth mount points on the back of the pedal assembly helps it mount flush/secure. The belt sander made that a 20 second task.

[PNWTim]

I considered shifting the entire pedal assembly mount, but it is currently in the stock location (without using the coyote bracket). I could not figure out how to use the bracket and then realized the 2024/2025 pedal fit “perfectly” without it. In the end I do not think it is even necessary to flip the pedal pad as described in the manual. Also having really smooth mount points on the back of the pedal assembly helps it mount flush/secure. The belt sander made that a 20 second task.

I think your Mark V frame is the same in the footbox as my coupe. The coupe does not use the bracket that comes with the Coyote install kit. So I am guessing your Mark V doesn't either. You probably have the welded in flat bracket with the two holes? Do you have your steering shaft installed yet - it will be interesting to see if you have conflict with the DBW plug as well.

[PNWTim]

For my height and foot size, what I ended up with has worked out fine. So it is possible. Not what I did (obviously...) but there was another builder recently who cut the plastic housing on the Ford DBW module enough to reorient the connector. A search should find the post. Another option maybe. Agree it's a mystery why after all this time and the multiple Coyote installations this isn't better sorted. I looked at the Lokar piece for both Coyote builds and both times the price convinced me otherwise...

I think I saw the post on reorienting the connector. I am going to re-cleco my engine bay panels so that I can see what I have to work with, and start sliding/rotating and otherwise moving it around to gain clearance. It strikes me that down slightly and rotated a bit may be the most direct path.

[PNWTim]

I went out to the shop this morning with a clear head and eyes to solve this little puzzle. One thing I determined which I was unaware of last night is the steering shaft also conflicts with the body of the pedal itself. So after studying it for a few minutes I realized the steering shaft is moving in an uphill incline and the acc pedal mounting plate is angled downward. With that in mind I dug a couple of 1/2" spacers out of the hardware bin, found some longer test bolts and popped it all together using the factory holes as so:

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This effectively moved the pedal assembly down and away from the steering shaft. I went ahead and brought in the bundle of snakes, also known as the Control Pack, and plugged in the DBW lead. Good clearance there, almost 1/4":

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The steering shaft, although not touching, is uncomfortably close to the pedal body. I believe that area of the body is a lot of nylon that can be clearanced pretty easily without letting the magic smoke out.

I know for some members moving the pedal 1/2" closer to the pilot is not an option but for me it's no problem. I thought this was a fairly straightforward solution and will probably figure out a way to brace the area that is floating but for all intents and purposes, I am going to consider this a win. As an aside, I refastened the inboard footbox panels to see how much room I had to work with. It ended up not mattering since I did not reposition the pedal left or right of it's original position. For those interested, there is about 1/2" you could move the pedal towards the PS without interference. I am also pretty sure the pedal arm could be repositioned (read bent) with the judicious application of heat without any adverse side effects.

[Tango]

First you make me aware of an issue that I was yet to discover…..then you follow it up with an elegantly simple solution that does not involve paying for shipping. You get a sincere thank you from me. I appreciate it.

[Gene Gage Jr]

I have a brand new complete Lokar pedal assembly I will sell you for $200 plus shipping. I didn't use it in my 33 Hot Rod build. It cost me about $900. If you are interested, my email address is: genegagejr@yahoo.com in case you want pics or want additional information. Thanks, Gene