Vintage air questions

[ohmygosuness]

I'm putting all the VA stuff in place and I think I'll make a new post for some questions.
Question 1 - As I was tightening the hard AC line to the back of compressor, I used 2 O-rings. They look like metal fused with rubber(?). The O-ring for the smaller diameter line disappeared as I tighten the bolt but the O-ring in the larger line is still visible (just barely). Is this normal or did I do something wrong? (I think both O-rings are the same size)
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Question 2 - I see this valve on the smaller diameter line (high pressure?). Am I suppose to cap it with something? There's nothing in my boxes from FFR that I could use to cap it. (pic for reference)

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[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

That sounds right on the compressor seals....one is countersunk into the compressor and the other isn't if I remember right.

That open port is for the C5 pressure sensor.....which you would want to use if you were running a C5 ECU so that the engine ECU can control the compressor and engine idle and cooling fans. Since I think you're running all C6 stuff (or at least NOT a C5 ECU, I would cap that off with the C5 pressure sensor just to make sure it's sealed and not count on just the schrader valve to seal it.

[ohmygosuness]

That sounds right on the compressor seals....one is countersunk into the compressor and the other isn't if I remember right.

That open port is for the C5 pressure sensor.....which you would want to use if you were running a C5 ECU so that the engine ECU can control the compressor and engine idle and cooling fans. Since I think you're running all C6 stuff (or at least NOT a C5 ECU, I would cap that off with the C5 pressure sensor just to make sure it's sealed and not count on just the schrader valve to seal it.

Thanks, Shane. I was losing sleep over that O-ring squeezing out LOL.

[ohmygosuness]

So, I'm at the point where I'm pretty close to starting the car (or so I thought). Then I read something about the heater core from VA needs to be open when starting the car. Then I came across a decade old post from Crash about bypassing the heater core using an aftermarket kit. Then I saw a post about NAPA stopped selling these parts.

What's the most up-to-date method to go about this issue? Or is my only solution is to wire up vintage AC before starting the car?

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

If you have the coolant shut-off from VA installed, it should only be closed when the AC is on. The problem is that you need to always have coolant circulating between the 5/8" and 3/4" heater hoses for the engine t-stat to work. As long as you don't engage that solenoid for the VA, you should be fine for now....but before you ever wire that up to engage, you will want to incorporate some sort of bypass. I think Crash still sells that bypass valve? On all of the builds I've done here, I've started placing a 3/8" T fitting in both the 5/8" hose and 3/4" hose and linking them together with 3/8" hose so that there is always a path for coolant to flow between them. This still allows coolant to also flow thru the heater core.

[Ajzride]

If you have the ability to CAD and 3D print in a high temp material, you can make an H-shaped adapter to provide this bypass function. Same results as the T and hose that Shane describe, just more compact and clean looking.

[ohmygosuness]

If you have the coolant shut-off from VA installed, it should only be closed when the AC is on. The problem is that you need to always have coolant circulating between the 5/8" and 3/4" heater hoses for the engine t-stat to work. As long as you don't engage that solenoid for the VA, you should be fine for now....but before you ever wire that up to engage, you will want to incorporate some sort of bypass. I think Crash still sells that bypass valve? On all of the builds I've done here, I've started placing a 3/8" T fitting in both the 5/8" hose and 3/4" hose and linking them together with 3/8" hose so that there is always a path for coolant to flow between them. This still allows coolant to also flow thru the heater core.

That's a good idea about the T fittings. There was an old post saying he sourced some of these parts from NAPA and they stopped selling it. If so, might have to go with the T fittings.

I have not connected any wires to the VA yet. I just have it in place so I can wire it up later.

What does the shut-off look like? Is it a manual valve or do I need to wire it up?

[Shoeless]

For the setup that Shane recommended, with T fittings and different size hoses (mine was the GTM in his shop that did that) the shutoff valve is a simple mechanical on/off shut-off that you pop the hood and manually open or manually close if you want heat. I live in S FL, so not much heat needed down here, so mine will be shut most of the time, but constantly circulating water to the t-stat.

I can try to find pics in my build post, but if you go search it, they are there for when I did this setup.

I won't take credit for the idea of doing this, that was another forum member, but it definitely works. Shane just did the test drive on my GTM, and H20 Temp was well behaved even when at idle with AC on. And mine isn't even tuned yet, so that's a positive.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

For a shut-off valve, I would recommend grabbing a brass plumbing ball valve and adding some brass hose barb fittings to fit it inline in the 5/8 hose, out under the hood where you can access it. Something like this:

https://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/valves/ball-valves/apollo-trade-barb-lead-free-brass-ball-valve/polyv12/p-1501569136534-c-9425.htm

[crash]

I still have some of the parts and pieces for the bypass valves, but frankly, the manual H setup is more robust. It is not as automatic as the electric bypass setup, but will do the job nicely it appears. I did have an issue with some customers that waited a long time before actually using the valves that had some issues with leakage. I think one of the cars Shane worked on had this issue. Could have been that the seals dried out, or a manufacturing defect, I don't really know, but it seemed to be only with customers that had not actually got the valve "wet" for quite some time. In any event, given that I only have some odds and ends here in the shop, and that we have seen some issues with the AC Delco valve that was being used, I would recommend the Shane solution as a more robust and more readily available solution.

[ohmygosuness]

Thanks, Crash. I appreciate the honesty.
Factory defect is like... 1 out of 5? I'm sure it wasn't your fault :D


So, my take away is...
1) Have a 3/8 bypass T-fitting between the 5/8 and 3/4 hose.

2) Put a shut off valve inline the 5/8 under the hood for when I need to turn on the A/C.

3) Go ahead and start the car.

4) Profit.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Sounds like a plan!

[ohmygosuness]

So, the car runs. Great.

Decided to finish up vintage air stuff so I can vacuum it and put charge.

I'm following exactly like in the manual:
High side compressor -> condenser -> evaporator -> accumulator -> back to low side compressor.

Problem is - the line that goes from condenser to evaporator line does not fit on the condenser end. Is this a compatibility issue with the C6 condenser coil or am I missing something here?

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[ohmygosuness]

I just looked online at c5 condenser coils. Looks like it has a different kind of fitting on the low pressure side. Damn, I guess I'll need to buy a c5 condenser.

[ohmygosuness]

Shane,

Is the manual ball valve used to replace this?

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[Shoeless]

Yes, the manual shut off valve with the series of hoses setup up to constantly flow coolant through a smaller diameter hose (with the valve shut) and then allow it to flow to the heater core through a larger diameter hose (with the valve open).

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Yes, Shoeless is correct. We replace that VA solenoid/valve with a manual shut-off valve and then install T fittings in the 5/8" and 3/4" heater hoses and run a short chunk of 3/8" hose between them so that coolant can always circulate between the heater hoses for the t-stat to operate correctly. We usually put the T's and 3/8 hose in right in front of the engine in that open space in front of the crank pulley.

[Shoeless]

For a pic of this go look at my Post #272

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26227-Shoeless-GTM-501-Here-we-go!!!/page7