Papa's Retirement Type 65 Coupe Build - Index in first post

[Papa]

It's been eight years since I ordered my MK4 Roadster kit and today I reviewed my Coupe order with FFR. I have a 6/21/25 completion date and shipping arranged with Stewart, but no ETA on actual delivery yet. I'm excited to be able to build another FFR kit and have a much better feel for what to expect after building the roadster. I'll be taking a different approach to the coupe compared with my roadster build. The coupe will be a more modern take, but still very classic looking. I will be doing IRS on this one with Wilwood brakes, including an electric e-brake kit from Wilwood. I was originally looking at an Aluminator and T-56 for the drive train but have backed off a bit from that with a Gen-4 Coyote and TKX. I still have time to think about it, but the kit will come with the drive shaft based on this combo.

The kit was ordered with the side window kit, heater and A/C, leather steering wheel, carpet, sway bars, and floor mats. A couple of key departures from the FFR standard kit will include Corbeau seats and Dakota Digital gauges. I'd like to incorporate TPMS from Dakota Digital as well as a rearview camera mirror if I can find an OEM quality mirror that I like. I also plan to order custom offset wheels to avoid using spacers and I have some candidates that I'm leaning toward but haven't locked my choice down yet. I'm going with a gray metallic color for the paint but haven't locked down a specific color yet. I'm leaning toward no stripes, but I do like the Gone in 60 Seconds Eleanor Pepper Gray and black look, so who knows?

This kit is intended to be a retirement project, so I plan to move at a slower build pace than my first build. We'll see how that goes. :p

Build Thread Index:



Front Suspension
Post #61 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51489-Papa-s-Retirement-Type-65-Coupe-Build&p=586175&viewfull=1#post586175)


Safety Wire on Wiwood Brakes
Post #65 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51489-Papa-s-Retirement-Type-65-Coupe-Build&p=586248&viewfull=1#post586248)


Initial Fuel Tank Assembly
Post #82 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51489-Papa-s-Retirement-Type-65-Coupe-Build-Index-in-first-post&p=586717&viewfull=1#post586717)


Rear Suspension
Post #85 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51489-Papa-s-Retirement-Type-65-Coupe-Build-Index-in-first-post&p=587112&viewfull=1#post587112)


Sway Bar Installation
Post #93 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51489-Papa-s-Retirement-Type-65-Coupe-Build-Index-in-first-post&p=588074&viewfull=1#post588074)


Wilwood EPB Initial Harness Layout
Post #94 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51489-Papa-s-Retirement-Type-65-Coupe-Build-Index-in-first-post&p=588226&viewfull=1#post588226)


Snakebite Motorworks Drop Trunk Kit
Post #98 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51489-Papa-s-Retirement-Type-65-Coupe-Build-Index-in-first-post&p=588514&viewfull=1#post588514)


Fuel Tank Install
Post #104 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51489-Papa-s-Retirement-Type-65-Coupe-Build-Index-in-first-post&p=589151&viewfull=1#post589151)


Battery Tray
Post #109 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51489-Papa-s-Retirement-Type-65-Coupe-Build-Index-in-first-post&p=589319&viewfull=1#post589319)


Wilwood Pedal Box Install
Post #110 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51489-Papa-s-Retirement-Type-65-Coupe-Build-Index-in-first-post&p=589322&viewfull=1#post589322)


Turn Signal Lever Modification, Brake Master Cylinders, Brake Light Switch Adjustment, and Fitting and Drilling Passenger Footbox Aluminum
Post #113 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51489-Papa-s-Retirement-Type-65-Coupe-Build-Index-in-first-post&p=589608&viewfull=1#post589608)


Fitting and Drilling Driver's Footbox Aluminum
Post #122 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51489-Papa-s-Retirement-Type-65-Coupe-Build-Index-in-first-post&p=589963&viewfull=1#post589963)


A/C and Heater Fit
Post #123 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51489-Papa-s-Retirement-Type-65-Coupe-Build-Index-in-first-post&p=590264&viewfull=1#post590264)


Snakebite Motorworks Glove Box Installation
Post #136 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51489-Papa-s-Retirement-Type-65-Coupe-Build-Index-in-first-post&p=590764&viewfull=1#post590764)


Snakebite Motorworks Triple Reservoir Bracket and Bezel
Post #143 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51489-Papa-s-Retirement-Type-65-Coupe-Build-Index-in-first-post&p=591123&viewfull=1#post591123)


Brake & Clutch Reservoir Plumbing
Post #149 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51489-Papa-s-Retirement-Type-65-Coupe-Build-Index-in-first-post&p=591271&viewfull=1#post591271)


Radiator Aluminum Panel Fitment and Modifications
Post #172 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51489-Papa-s-Retirement-Type-65-Coupe-Build-Index-in-first-post&p=592821&viewfull=1#post592821)


Cockpit Aluminum Fitting and Drilling
Post #199 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51489-Papa-s-Retirement-Type-65-Coupe-Build-Index-in-first-post&p=594488&viewfull=1#post594488)


Front Brake Lines
Post #240 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51489-Papa-s-Retirement-Type-65-Coupe-Build-Index-in-first-post&p=596408&viewfull=1#post596408)


Rear Brake Lines
Post #259 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51489-Papa-s-Retirement-Type-65-Coupe-Build-Index-in-first-post&p=597623&viewfull=1#post597623)


Fuel Lines
Post #265 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51489-Papa-s-Retirement-Type-65-Coupe-Build-Index-in-first-post&p=597752&viewfull=1#post597752)


Dakota Digital VHX-1060 Gauges
Post #266 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51489-Papa-s-Retirement-Type-65-Coupe-Build-Index-in-first-post&p=597822&viewfull=1#post597822)


Sparco R100 Seats - Initial Test Fit
Post #280 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51489-Papa-s-Retirement-Type-65-Coupe-Build-Index-in-first-post&p=598558&viewfull=1#post598558)


Aluminum Panels Back from Powder Coater - (Install over several pages)
Post #313 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51489-Papa-s-Retirement-Type-65-Coupe-Build-Index-in-first-post&p=600173&viewfull=1#post600173)


Rear Electrical Harness
Post #342 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51489-Papa-s-Retirement-Type-65-Coupe-Build-Index-in-first-post&p=600784&viewfull=1#post600784)


Main Electrical Harness Modification
Post #425 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51489-Papa-s-Retirement-Type-65-Coupe-Build-Index-in-first-post&p=603124&viewfull=1#post603124)


Windshield Wiper Setup
Post #427 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51489-Papa-s-Retirement-Type-65-Coupe-Build-Index-in-first-post&p=603759&viewfull=1#post603759)


NRG Quick Release and I.E.427 NRG Hub
Post #477 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51489-Papa-s-Retirement-Type-65-Coupe-Build-Index-in-first-post&p=606668&viewfull=1#post606668)

[JimStone]

Exciting! Congratulations

I'm having a blast with my coupe project

[David Williamson]

I did my Coupe in 2017-18 as a retirement project and it was a good way to transition from work. I built my Mkll in 7 months while i was working and the Coupe took 18 months after I retired ??? Really slowed down on the Coupe and only worked on it a few hours in afternoons compared to the Cobra that I worked on most evenings and weekends.
David W

[Higgybulin]

Awesome Dave!! I will be following!!
Higgy

[edwardb]

Congratulations. I've been doing retirement projects for a while now. Can't beat it... Love the T-56 in my Coupe. But the TKX is excellent as well. Especially with the Coyote which is happy at just about any RPM. Will be following!

[burchfieldb]

Excited to see what you come up with. I am also a gan of the Eleanor color scheme.

[Rsnake]

Congratulations! I am excited to see the updates on your progress.

[Lidodrip]

Great project and congratulations!

James

[GoDadGo]

Jealous, You Bet I Am Papa Dave!
.......I'm sure your next project will be amazing.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Exciting times Dave!

On that Eleanor Pepper Gray...check out Ford Dark Shadow Gray (code CX). Very similar but when compared side by side the Pepper is kind of dead and brown. Here's one I did with it several years ago:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214608&d=1748994215

Can't wait to follow your build :D

Jeff

214608

[Papa]

Exciting times Dave!

On that Eleanor Pepper Gray...check out Ford Dark Shadow Gray (code CX). Very similar but when compared side by side the Pepper is kind of dead and brown. Here's one I did with it several years ago:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214608&d=1748994215

Can't wait to follow your build :D

Jeff

214608

Thanks, Jeff! I do like that look. Keep those recommendations coming. I'll be calling you at some point to get in line for paint.

[460.465USMC]

Congrats, Dave! And, welcome back! Your build has very similar options as mine, except I'm going with the T-56. Can't go wrong with the Coyote IMHO.

Now, if only you had a nice garage space for your build. :p I look forward to following along.

P.S. if you need any tips on how to build slowly, I wrote the book.

[johnnybgoode]

It's been eight years since I ordered my MK4 Roadster kit and today I reviewed my Coupe order with FFR. I have a 6/21/25 completion date and shipping arranged with Stewart, but no ETA on actual delivery yet. I'm excited to be able to build another FFR kit and have a much better feel for what to expect after building the roadster. I'll be taking a different approach to the coupe compared with my roadster build. The coupe will be a more modern take, but still very classic looking. I will be doing IRS on this one with Wilwood brakes, including an electric e-brake kit from Wilwood. I was originally looking at an Aluminator and T-56 for the drive train but have backed off a bit from that with a Gen-4 Coyote and TKX. I still have time to think about it, but the kit will come with the drive shaft based on this combo.

The kit was ordered with the side window kit, heater and A/C, leather steering wheel, carpet, sway bars, and floor mats. A couple of key departures from the FFR standard kit will include Corbeau seats and Dakota Digital gauges. I'd like to incorporate TPMS from Dakota Digital as well as a rearview camera mirror if I can find an OEM quality mirror that I like. I also plan to order custom offset wheels to avoid using spacers and I have some candidates that I'm leaning toward but haven't locked my choice down yet. I'm going with a gray metallic color for the paint but haven't locked down a specific color yet. I'm leaning toward no stripes, but I do like the Gone in 60 Seconds Eleanor Pepper Gray and black look, so who knows?

This kit is intended to be a retirement project, so I plan to move at a slower build pace than my first build. We'll see how that goes. :p

Re: rear view camera. I'm in the process of installing this combo in my Superlite right now. Congrats on the new build. Scott
https://www.auto-vox.com/products/auto-vox-t9-oem-look-rear-view-mirror-backup-camera?srsltid=AfmBOoqugdfi9eIXZkQI9egooGdYb00gfq3 KF4dbKyYzztWm6RWaWc6K
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0DPCGMMZS?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

[Straversi]

Congrats,
I haven’t been active on the forum in a while but this post caught my eye. Can’t wait to see this come together.
-Steve

[Papa]

Stewart called today. My kit completion is 6/21/25 and Stewert will be picking it up on 6/23/25 with an expected delivery 6/27 - 6/29.

[edwardb]

Stewart called today. My kit completion is 6/21/25 and Stewert will be picking it up on 6/23/25 with an expected delivery 6/27 - 6/29.

Hmm... I'll bet we'll be on the same truck. My Mk5 Roadster picking up 6/23 and expected delivery 6/25 - 6/27. Looks like passing through MI on the way to MO. Makes sense.

[Papa]

Hmm... I'll bet we'll be on the same truck. My Mk5 Roadster picking up 6/23 and expected delivery 6/25 - 6/27. Looks like passing through MI on the way to MO. Makes sense.

I bet you're right.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I bet you're right.

And here's my prediction...they'll be delivered by Kelly Lindsey. He's driving the FFR big rig to the LCS show. While there his truck will get loaded up and when he gets back to Wareham on Sunday he'll head out in it to make deliveries.

Jeff

[Papa]

Delivery day today!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215632&d=1751156867

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215633&d=1751156867

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215634&d=1751156867

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215635&d=1751156867

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215636&d=1751156867

There were two MK5s and a MK4 on the truck left to deliver on this load. The next delivery is headed to Utah, then California, and finally Washington.


https://youtu.be/1A7l1Q9bACY

[Papa]

After a quick look at the inventory sheets, the POL is pretty short, just 17 items. Most won't be needed for some time, but the lower control arms are on the list, which I hope come quickly. The full inventory will begin in the next day or two.

[Stangrob]

First off, congrats! And secondly, you have a phenomenal garage!!!

Rob

[Blitzboy54]

Right on. Glad you jumped back in. Looking forward to following along.

Congrats on retirement as well.

[PNWTim]

Always a good day!

[Papa]

Today was spent doing a complete inventory. After seven hours, it's done and the most significant discrepancy is a lack of a build manual in any of the boxes or listed on the inventory sheets. Other than that, just one error on a small item (a rubber washer) where I got one extra of one size, and too few of a different size. I also received a couple of parts not listed on the inventory sheets that are part of the hydraulic clutch kit; a 3/4" Wilwood master cylinder kit, #4 Fragola braided steel hose, and a #4 to 1/8" NTP 90 degree fitting. The most significant parts on back order are the front lower control arms and the fuel tank assembly.

[Papa]

I e-mailed my MIK form to FFR this morning. Those hydraulic clutch parts that weren't on my inventory ... well, I'm missing a page! As I was drafting my e-mail and describing the "extra" parts in box #19, I noticed that I was missing the last page of that box's inventory. I've asked FFR to send me that page so that I can verify I actually have all the parts that should be there. I was surprised to find that FFR doesn't send printed manuals anymore! I have the digital manual, but I wish I had a printed one to keep notes in and to be able to flip forward while proceeding through the build to check for potential gotchas in later steps. I'd be happy if they just offered a hard copy as an option. Yes, I can print the darn thing, all 600 pages, but it'll be a PITA and burn a ton of toner on my color laser printer. A set of toner cartridges run almost $500 for my printer.

[PNWTim]

I e-mailed my MIK form to FFR this morning. Those hydraulic clutch parts that weren't on my inventory ... well, I'm missing a page! As I was drafting my e-mail and describing the "extra" parts in box #19, I noticed that I was missing the last page of that box's inventory. I've asked FFR to send me that page so that I can verify I actually have all the parts that should be there. I was surprised to find that FFR doesn't send printed manuals anymore! I have the digital manual, but I wish I had a printed one to keep notes in and to be able to flip forward while proceeding through the build to check for potential gotchas in later steps. I'd be happy if they just offered a hard copy as an option. Yes, I can print the darn thing, all 600 pages, but it'll be a PITA and burn a ton of toner on my color laser printer. A set of toner cartridges run almost $500 for my printer.

I was fortunate enough to get a hard copy manual but I did look into having Kinko's print and bind a copy of the digital version I received before my kit delivery. If I recall correctly, it was about $250 so perhaps that's an option for you. I think FFR probably doesn't want to keep up with the constant updates and changes necessary to make the hard copy current and relevant.

[JimStone]

Digital is nice to read while pretending to watch Paw Patrol with the kids, or at the airport, or on the toilet.

But there's no substitute to having the printed copy open on the work bench.

[PNWTim]

I was actually just on FF's parts site and they list the Coupe printed manual at $49.99

[Papa]

I was actually just on FF's parts site and they list the Coupe printed manual at $49.99

Awesome! I have one ready to order, but need to call and see if they also sell a blank gauge panel since I'm not using FFR gauges for this build.

[bishes]

They do sell a blank gauge panel (part 60393). I was told during my order process that I should expect the blank panel since I didn't order any gauges from them. I still got the precut gauge panel but they sent the blank one with my MIK after I asked about it.

[Papa]

They do sell a blank gauge panel (part 60393). I was told during my order process that I should expect the blank panel since I didn't order any gauges from them. I still got the precut gauge panel but they sent the blank one with my MIK after I asked about it.

Thanks! I'll shoot them a message tomorrow about the panel and get the manual ordered.

[PNWTim]

Thanks! I'll shoot them and message tomorrow about the panel and get the manual ordered.

That's interesting. I didn't order their gauges either and received a precut insert. I ordered my blank from Brent at Snakebite Motorworks. I wish I would've had the option to order a dash with no holes but I don't think that's an option.

[Papa]

I just got off the phone with FFR regarding the printed manual and blank gauge panel. In spite of what is shown on the parts website page, they no longer offer printed manuals. On the gauge panel, they do have a blank panel and were happy to sell me one for $45.00. When I asked about why it wasn't just shipped with my kit based on the gauge delete, I got a "that's just the way they do it" response. I asked that they just put it in with my POL parts and saved the cost of shipping. I don't get why they don't ship a blank panel when you do a gauge delete on your order. Perhaps if I'd have discussed it with them at the time the kit was ordered it could have been worked out at that time.

[460.465USMC]

Congrats, Dave! Exciting times. I think you're going to have a blast.

I'm a little surprised to hear they stopped including the manual. Mine just sits and collects dust. Happy to give it to you. Let me know.

P.S. your grass looks amazing! You're not only an excellent F5 builder, but a lawn doctor.

[Papa]

Congrats, Dave! Exciting times. I think you're going to have a blast.

I'm a little surprised to hear they stopped including the manual. Mine just sits and collects dust. Happy to give it to you. Let me know.

P.S. your grass looks amazing! You're not only an excellent F5 builder, but a lawn doctor.

Hey Chris,

I'd be happy to accept that manual, but only if you let me pay for shipping.

The lawn is a lot of work, but keeps me busy with three acres to keep up with.

Dave

[danmas]

I don’t have a dog in this hunt (yet) as I have a paper mkiv manual. However, I suspect Factory Five Racing could set up a print on demand sku that routes to Amazon or one of the other print on demand publishers. It would be easy and I think a good service for their customers. Here is a company that does Spiral coil notebooks (https://www.newprint.com/spiral-coil-bound-books#about-product-301). If anyone has a touch point/relationship with FFR perhaps you might suggest that?

I know I really value my paper manual because I write notes in it about the build…

Dan

[460.465USMC]

Hey Chris,

I'd be happy to accept that manual, but only if you let me pay for shipping.

The lawn is a lot of work, but keeps me busy with three acres to keep up with.

Dave

Sounds good. Glad to see it go where it can get some use. If you still have my number, send me a text with your details. Or, PM me.

[Papa]

As promised, I'm taking my time with this build. :p The body is still sitting on the chassis but should come off in the next couple of weeks once I get some helpers line up.

Today, I packaged up my headers to send them off for ceramic coating with Jet-Hot. I also ordered the Wilwood electric parking brake kit from Summit Racing with their SUMMER25 $80 off $1,000+ purchase deal. I'm holding on to all the e-brake stuff from the kit until I have installed and tested the Wilwood parts.

It also looks like FFR has three packages heading my way that should contain a bunch of POL items that I'll be able to check off the list. I've also scanned in my complete inventory sheets and converted to a searchable (OCR) PDF file that will make locating parts a lot easier down the road.

I think I've zeroed in on rearview mirror I'm going to use. I like the Wolfbox Pro (WOLFBOX G900Pro 12MP WiFi Touch Screen Rear View Mirror Dash Cam Smart Mirror (https://wolfbox.com/products/wolfbox-2024-g900-pro-wifi-touch-screen-parking-monitoring-dash-cam-smart-mirror-with-starvis-678-sensor)).

[Papa]

One more update for today. I was reviewing Paul's Coupe build thread for information on the wiper arms/blades he used with the wiper kit he used. I plan to use the same kit, but the arms and blades he used are not available anywhere. So, using his information on lengths, I found these that should work.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216076&d=1752006812

We'll see when I get to that part of the build.

[PNWTim]

As promised, I'm taking my time with this build. :p The body is still sitting on the chassis but should come off in the next couple of weeks once I get some helpers line up.

Today, I packaged up my headers to send them off for ceramic coating with Jet-Hot. I also ordered the Wilwood electric parking brake kit from Summit Racing with their SUMMER25 $80 off $1,000+ purchase deal. I'm holding on to all the e-brake stuff from the kit until I have installed and tested the Wilwood parts.

It also looks like FFR has three packages heading my way that should contain a bunch of POL items that I'll be able to check off the list. I've also scanned in my complete inventory sheets and converted to a searchable (OCR) PDF file that will make locating parts a lot easier down the road.

I think I've zeroed in on rearview mirror I'm going to use. I like the Wolfbox Pro (WOLFBOX G900Pro 12MP WiFi Touch Screen Rear View Mirror Dash Cam Smart Mirror (https://wolfbox.com/products/wolfbox-2024-g900-pro-wifi-touch-screen-parking-monitoring-dash-cam-smart-mirror-with-starvis-678-sensor)).

Dave - that's the mirror I bought which I am working on coupling it with the same roll bar bracket that Jim Stone used. You will need some kind of OEM arm or other attachment method as the unit is designed to fit on an existing mirror. It's a pretty nice piece. I tested the front and rear cameras and they both work well.

[Papa]

Dave - that's the mirror I bought which I am working on coupling it with the same roll bar bracket that Jim Stone used. You will need some kind of OEM arm or other attachment method as the unit is designed to fit on an existing mirror. It's a pretty nice piece. I tested the front and rear cameras and they both work well.

Thanks, Tim. They do sell an OEM style mount that will work with the glued on metal mount that the coupe kit mirror uses.

[PNWTim]

Thanks, Tim. They do sell an OEM style mount that will work with the glued on metal mount that the coupe kit mirror uses.

I guess I am in the dark on this one. I don't believe my kit came with a cockpit mirror. Was it something extra you ordered? Perhaps I am suffering from a little CRS...

[Papa]

Mine came with an OEM style (8") windshield-mounted mirror.

[PNWTim]

That must be something new. I noticed the blue car on their website has a rear view mirror in it so it must be a recent change.

[burchfieldb]

That must be something new. I noticed the blue car on their website has a rear view mirror in it so it must be a recent change.

I think it was a missing item in your kit. Mine came with it and I ordered it in 2022.

[PNWTim]

I think it was a missing item in your kit. Mine came with it and I ordered it in 2022.

Interesting. I went through my inventory sheets yesterday just to make sure I wasn't losing my mind and nothing is listed. Dave - didn't mean to highjack your thread over the mirror.

[johnnybgoode]

Re: rear view camera. I'm in the process of installing this combo in my Superlite right now. Congrats on the new build. Scott
https://www.auto-vox.com/products/auto-vox-t9-oem-look-rear-view-mirror-backup-camera?srsltid=AfmBOoqugdfi9eIXZkQI9egooGdYb00gfq3 KF4dbKyYzztWm6RWaWc6K
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0DPCGMMZS?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

I just wanted to update this now that I have finished installing the T9. The screen works great and was pretty straight forward to install however the Amazon 1080P AHD camera I bought is not compatible with streaming DVR's so I had to use the camera that came with the T9 which is a bit larger but works fine. Scott

[Smiley]

As promised, I'm taking my time with this build. :p The body is still sitting on the chassis but should come off in the next couple of weeks once I get some helpers line up.

Today, I packaged up my headers to send them off for ceramic coating with Jet-Hot. I also ordered the Wilwood electric parking brake kit from Summit Racing with their SUMMER25 $80 off $1,000+ purchase deal. I'm holding on to all the e-brake stuff from the kit until I have installed and tested the Wilwood parts.

It also looks like FFR has three packages heading my way that should contain a bunch of POL items that I'll be able to check off the list. I've also scanned in my complete inventory sheets and converted to a searchable (OCR) PDF file that will make locating parts a lot easier down the road.

I think I've zeroed in on rearview mirror I'm going to use. I like the Wolfbox Pro (WOLFBOX G900Pro 12MP WiFi Touch Screen Rear View Mirror Dash Cam Smart Mirror (https://wolfbox.com/products/wolfbox-2024-g900-pro-wifi-touch-screen-parking-monitoring-dash-cam-smart-mirror-with-starvis-678-sensor)).
Dave, I am sure you could get a couple of the Gateway guys to show up and help remove the body. If available I would come. Looking forward to your open house.

[Papa]

Dave, I am sure you could get a couple of the Gateway guys to show up and help remove the body. If available I would come. Looking forward to your open house.

I'll have two son-in-laws at the house in a couple of weeks, and they need to earn their keep!

[Ducky2009]

Congrats on retirement and starting a new built. I built my MK4 when I retired. Have fun

[460.465USMC]

One more update for today. I was reviewing Paul's Coupe build thread for information on the wiper arms/blades he used with the wiper kit he used. I plan to use the same kit, but the arms and blades he used are not available anywhere. So, using his information on lengths, I found these that should work.

We'll see when I get to that part of the build.

Thanks for sharing, Dave. Do you have the info. on the arms?

[Papa]

Thanks for sharing, Dave. Do you have the info. on the arms?

https://www.grainger.com/product/20G314?RIID=69999315355&GID=&mid=OrderConfirmation_REST&rfe=637f483eab486df01b082e4753e52994f59802d6c1a8cf 04c49cde6612e2fb0a&gcrfe=637f483eab486df01b082e4753e52994f59802d6c1a8 cf04c49cde6612e2fb0a&gucid=EMT:11126144:Item:CSM-323&emcid=NA:Item

https://www.grainger.com/product/811PF5?RIID=69999315355&GID=&mid=OrderConfirmation_REST&rfe=637f483eab486df01b082e4753e52994f59802d6c1a8cf 04c49cde6612e2fb0a&gcrfe=637f483eab486df01b082e4753e52994f59802d6c1a8 cf04c49cde6612e2fb0a&gucid=EMT:11126144:Item:CSM-323&emcid=NA:Item

These are what I bought.

[Papa]

I received nearly all of my POL items from FFR today, so just a handful of remaining items to go. I also received my Wilwood EPB kit and it looks like a really nice upgrade. I'll be borrowing a press from my brother-in-law this weekend and will knock out the wheel stud swap on the rear hubs once I get some time to get going.

[Sharris2]

Following the build; i p\u my kit first week of Aug. Interested what was the roll bar bracket for the mirror. Im thinking the same Wolfbox 900pro? Thanks

[Papa]

Following the build; i p\u my kit first week of Aug. Interested what was the roll bar bracket for the mirror. Im thinking the same Wolfbox 900pro? Thanks

Here is the mirror mount I'll be using:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216235&d=1752275523

For a rollbar mount, you might look at what's available for UTVs to see if anything might meet your needs. FFR does have a rollbar mounted mirror available as well.

https://www.factoryfiveparts.com/16562-14-wide-angle-mirror-kit/

[Papa]

Today I was more focused on my MK4 trying to resolve a long-time nagging issue that I believe I may have solved! On the Coupe, I removed the rear glass and stashed that away for safe keeping and then pulled the nose off the chassis. I removed the aluminum panels that were under the nose, the dash, and the loose cockpit panels that would come out with the body on the car. I now have a clear chassis on the front-end to start installing the steering rack and front suspension.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216236&d=1752276007

[burchfieldb]

Following the build; i p\u my kit first week of Aug. Interested what was the roll bar bracket for the mirror. Im thinking the same Wolfbox 900pro? Thanks

This is one that has been used for the AutoVox mirror.

https://a.co/d/evAo3EB

Jim details it out in his thread starting at 153.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48924-Project-Deimos-An-LS-65-Coupe-Build-Vroom-Vroom/page4#post576859

[Papa]

A few more POL parts came from FFR yesterday, so we are nearly complete on delivered parts. Still missing a spacer for the Coyote engine mount and the fuel tank components.

Has anyone tried the Aeromotive fuel pump hanger setup yet?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-18638/make/ford/model/mustang/year/1994

[Sharris2]

That looks like the same unit Forte supplied me with for the coyote engine pkg I got from him; workd great. I used to fittings (90) from earls I believe

[Papa]

That looks like the same unit Forte supplied me with for the coyote engine pkg I got from him; workd great. I used to fittings (90) from earls I believe

Thank you. I may go this route.

Dave

[Papa]

Today I got to start working on the front suspension! I installed the FFR power steering rack, which looks to be very good quality. It installed a lot easier than I remember the MK4 install being.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216453&d=1752700159

FFR is also including a new support bracket for the steering rack seen here. I was sent the same bracket for my MK4 last year and installed it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216454&d=1752700159

I then installed the lower control arms. I use a red paint pen to mark bolts that have been torqued, and place a small white dot next to grease zerks that I've hit with the grease gun. Finally, I assembled the Koni coil-over shocks and installed them and that was it for the day.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216455&d=1752700159

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216456&d=1752700159

This is the first time for me with the new process FFR is using for the mounting hardware. I like that everything is bagged and labeled, but wish it was done by assembly rather than just bolt size. I know that would likely add cost, but would make it much easier for the builder. I'm going to have to find some way to organize the box of hardware to help me locate what I need in a way that doesn't include spreading all the little bags out on the floor until I find what I'm looking for.

[Lugnut Mark]

Papa congratulations on the coupe build...I just took advantage of the 4th of july anniversary sale and received $3000 off my kit ... sadly my completion date is not till September 20 .. how far in advance did you book Stewart shipping ? BTW the front suspension looks killer !!

[Papa]

Papa congratulations on the coupe build...I just took advantage of the 4th of july anniversary sale and received $3000 off my kit ... sadly my completion date is not till September 20 .. how far in advance did you book Stewart shipping ? BTW the front suspension looks killer !!

Thanks! It feels great to be building again. I called Stewart right away and they basically take it from there. About two weeks from your completion date they will call to take payment. Once they schedule your pick up at FFR, they will give you an estimated delivery window. The driver will call you a the day before delivery and give you a time window.

September will be here before you know it!

Dave

[Lugnut Mark]

Thanks for the info Dave I can.t wait to get started on my build .... I went ahead and ordered my Forgestar wheels this morning i'm going for a more modern custom look and seeing how they take about 6 weeks to make they should arrive by the time my kit does Thanks again

Mark

[Papa]

I decided to go with the Howe upper ball joints, so they are on the way. Once they get here, I can continue the front suspension work. In the meantime, I assembled my Wilwood rotors. This isn't anything that hasn't already been shown or discussed but followed the directions for installing the hats to the letter! A dab of red thread locker on each bolt and 155 inch pounds on the torque value.

Next it was on to safety wiring. I had a bit of a re-learning curve but quickly overcame that and the process went pretty fast after that. I thought I'd share my step-by-step method here for others.

Step one: Cut a piece of wire about 12-14" in length and straighten it out as best as you can.

Step 2: Feed the wire from the inside through the bolt that will be on the left of the wired pair.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216469&d=1752779553

Step 3: Bend the wire on the outside and pull that wire toward the second bolt in the pair. Wrap the inside wire around the bolt and pull that wire parallel with the first wire.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216470&d=1752779553

Step 4: Clamp your twisting pliers on the two wires about even with the hole in the second bolt and twist the wires with four or five pulls.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216471&d=1752779553

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216472&d=1752779553

Step 5: Pull one of the wires through the bolt and toward the inside of the assembly. Wrap the second wire around the bolt and pull it parallel with the first wire.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216473&d=1752779553

Step 6: Clamp the two wires about a 1/4" from the bolt and twist them together.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216474&d=1752779572

Step 7: Clip the wire and roll it up against the bolt.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216475&d=1752779572

That's it! Now you will have a good-looking safety wire on your brakes. Repeat five more times per rotor.

[Papa]

When you are done, it will look like this:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216476&d=1752779572

[460.465USMC]

This is the first time for me with the new process FFR is using for the mounting hardware. I like that everything is bagged and labeled, but with it was done by assembly rather than just bolt size. I know that would likely add cost, but would make it much easier for the builder. I'm going to have to find some way to organize the box of hardware to help me locate what I need in a way that doesn't include spreading all the little bags out on the floor until I find what I'm looking for.

Congrats on getting your MK4 issue sorted.

What's been working well for me is to combine like size fasteners, washers, and nuts into a single, larger sized labeled baggie. So, if the upper radiator mount calls for 5/16 screws, nuts, and washers, I grab the 5/16 baggie and quickly find what I need. The larger suspension hardware is a bit bulky for this. But after that all the remaining fasteners fit into their individual baggies (McMaster baggies, of course) inside a 12"x12" box, like this. The only time investment was the initial sorting by size.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216479&d=1752783868

[GoDadGo]

Papa Dave,

I can't wait to watch you build your next dream machine.
Keep Wrenching, Keep Riveting & Please Keep Posting Your Progress!
You are motivating me to come out of retirement so that I can afford to build one too.

Steve

[Lugnut Mark]

Good Morning sir .... i have a quick question I see that you are planning on doing a coyote engine for you build .... summit has 2 versions available now one with dual throttle bodies and one with single throttle body which one are going to purchase ... the difference being hp the single is rated at 460 hp and the dual at 480 for simplicity reasons which one are you going with in the Gen 4 ?

[Papa]

Good Morning sir .... i have a quick question I see that you are planning on doing a coyote engine for you build .... summit has 2 versions available now one with dual throttle bodies and one with single throttle body which one are going to purchase ... the difference being hp the single is rated at 460 hp and the dual at 480 for simplicity reasons which one are you going with in the Gen 4 ?

I'm undecided still, but leaning either toward the FF Gen4 (https://www.factoryfive-at.com/) package or with Fortes Gen4 or 5.2 XS options (https://fortesparts.com/product-category/engine-packages/ford-coyote/).

[Lugnut Mark]

Either way should make plenty of hp for such a light car .... Thanks for responding !!

[Papa]

Not much progress today, but I pulled the power steering rack support bracket back off and cleaned the rattle-can paint off of it and powder coated it. Not a great picture, but it looks much better.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216556&d=1752968117

My fuel tank and parts arrived, and I pulled the items out of the box and checked off the inventory -- just three parts remaining on my POL. When I actually pulled the tank out of the box, I see a pretty significant bend on one corner that I'm concerned with.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216554&d=1752968117

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216555&d=1752968117

I'll be calling FFR next week to see what they want me to do and if they will send a replacement tank. Fuel is not something I feel comfortable rolling the dice on!

I also went ahead and ordered the Aeromotive fuel pump and hanger assembly, the ford fill tube seal, and ford gas cap.

[edwardb]

Good Morning sir .... i have a quick question I see that you are planning on doing a coyote engine for you build .... summit has 2 versions available now one with dual throttle bodies and one with single throttle body which one are going to purchase ... the difference being hp the single is rated at 460 hp and the dual at 480 for simplicity reasons which one are you going with in the Gen 4 ?

This was some months ago, but I believe still accurate. When the Gen 4 Coyote crate motors were released, the dual throttle body version was described as having a locked tune. That's not good because our builds won't fit the stock airbox which is one of the reasons a custom tune is required.. Even if the tune wasn't locked, not sure how that could be plumbed to fit under the hood of our builds. The single throttle body version is tunable and what is being used for our builds. It has basically the same specs as the Gen 3 crate.


My fuel tank and parts arrived, and I pulled the items out of the box and checked off the inventory -- just three parts remaining on my POL. When I actually pulled the tank out of the box, I see a pretty significant bend on one corner that I'm concerned with. I'll be calling FFR next week to see what they want me to do and if they will send a replacement tank. Fuel is not something I feel comfortable rolling the dice on!

That bent corner is normal. The last couple I've received have been the same. Including for my Mk5. Not damage if that's what you're thinking. Apparently required clearance for the Mustang.

[Papa]

This was some months ago, but I believe still accurate. When the Gen 4 Coyote crate motors were released, the dual throttle body version was described as having a locked tune. That's not good because our builds won't fit the stock airbox which is one of the reasons a custom tune is required.. Even if the tune wasn't locked, not sure how that could be plumbed to fit under the hood of our builds. The single throttle body version is tunable and what is being used for our builds. It has basically the same specs as the Gen 3 crate.



That bent corner is normal. The last couple I've received have been the same. Including for my Mk5. Not damage if that's what you're thinking. Apparently required clearance for the Mustang.

Thanks, Paul. I was thinking that bend was damage, but glad to hear it is made that way.

[Lugnut Mark]

Thats great information Edwardb for both Papa and myself ..... single throttle body it is then !! Thanks for the heads up !!

[Lugnut Mark]

Beautiful COBRA cobra by the way Papa!!

[Papa]

Thanks to Paul's confirmation, I'm good to go with the provided fuel tank. I will have the pump and hanger on Tuesday but went ahead and installed the fuel level sender after verifying the proper ohm reading of 16-158 (empty to full). I have a tool that I bought during my last build that really helps with installation and removal of the locking rings.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216585&d=1753046117

[Papa]

Today I was able to complete the front suspension. I used the Howe Racing upper ball joints and Energy Suspension dust boots. Everything went together really well. I thought I was going to have to pull the shock off from the top mount as the upper control arm bar didn't want to go in at first. I finally realized I just need to rotate the spring so that the bar could slide into the frame tabs. The hubs went on like butter with no need to persuade them at all. I did wipe a little 3-in-1 oil on the spindle and inside the hub first, but not sure that was necessary. I still have the jumbo torque wrench from the first build, so I was able to get the 225lbs. of torque on the hub nuts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216661&d=1753229008

And here are both sides finished, torqued, greased, and ready to move on to the brakes.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216663&d=1753229012

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216662&d=1753229010

My Aeromotive fuel pump and hanger arrived today, so I'll be installing that into the tank tomorrow. The heat in Missouri was oppressive today with the heat index at 108 degrees. My shop is a very comfortable 75 degrees thanks to the Mr. Cool mini-split and the 8' fan!

[PNWTim]

Is the torque wrench their 50 to 300 pounder?

[Papa]

Is the torque wrench their 50 to 300 pounder?

It is. It's actually not a bad tool for the price.

[Papa]

I completed installing the front brakes today:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216725&d=1753307217

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216726&d=1753307217

[Papa]

After wrapping up the brakes, I went back to the fuel tank assembly. I installed the Aeromotive pump and hanger.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216720&d=1753307191

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216723&d=1753307191

The supply and return ports are -6 ORB. I picked up some 90 degree -6 ORB to -6 flair swivel fittings and installed them along with some caps to keep things clean until I'm ready to do the fuel lines later in the build. I also made the wiring connections with some wire that will be connected to the harness later on. This is a much better method of making fuel pump connections than the old plastic connectors that I seem to be able to break almost every time I use them. I also added a few pieces of sound deadener material to the tank to help reduce the potential for noise later on.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216721&d=1753307191

Finally, I cut the fill tube per the manual and cleaned up the burs as well as all the metal inside the tubes after using a cutoff wheel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216724&d=1753307191

The body will be coming off Saturday and I'll be able to start on the rear suspension next week.

[Papa]

Yesterday I had some help and got the body off the chassis. I'm going to have to figure out a good way to store it, but it's just sitting on the floor right now. This morning, I removed the rest of the aluminum panels. Some of them were not easy to get off without potentially scratching up the PC on the frame. It'll be interesting to see if I can get them back on with PC on the panels that have to be "flexed" to remove and replace.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216907&d=1753664750

Next I started working with the IRS parts. I swapped the studs out on the rear hubs, taking a cue from Paul and flattening a portion of the stud head to clear the seal and casting on the hub in the same way the factory installed studs are done.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216908&d=1753664750

I then drilled and cut the knuckles per the manual and cleaned up the rough surface created by the saw.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216909&d=1753664750

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216910&d=1753664750

The knuckles need to be cleaned up a bit more, but I need to press in a new bushing/bearing on one of them that was missing. I have a replacement coming that will need to be pressed in and then these can be wrapped up.

I also chased the mounting holes on the front mounts for the differential. I nearly broke my wrist when the drill bit stopped, but my drill didn't! I installed the differential mounting bushings in the chassis and identified the bolts for the install. I'm going to have to rig up some straps to get this thing into position; wish me luck!

[PNWTim]

Yesterday I had some help and got the body off the chassis. I'm going to have to figure out a good way to store it, but it's just sitting on the floor right now. This morning, I removed the rest of the aluminum panels. Some of them were not easy to get off without potentially scratching up the PC on the frame. It'll be interesting to see if I can get them back on with PC on the panels that have to be "flexed" to remove and replace.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216907&d=1753664750

Next I started working with the IRS parts. I swapped the studs out on the rear hubs, taking a cue from Paul and flattening a portion of the stud head to clear the seal and casting on the hub in the same way the factory installed studs are done.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216908&d=1753664750

I then drilled and cut the knuckles per the manual and cleaned up the rough surface created by the saw.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216909&d=1753664750

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216910&d=1753664750

The knuckles need to be cleaned up a bit more, but I need to press in a new bushing/bearing on one of them that was missing. I have a replacement coming that will need to be pressed in and then these can be wrapped up.

I also chased the mounting holes on the front mounts for the differential. I nearly broke my wrist when the drill bit stopped, but my drill didn't! I installed the differential mounting bushings in the chassis and identified the bolts for the install. I'm going to have to rig up some straps to get this thing into position; wish me luck!

I read enough horror stories about drilling those holes I bought a tapered bit which made it a piece of cake. It's interesting, I didn't grind a flat on my studs as I don't remember there being any interference but it makes me want to look and make sure they are not sitting on a "shoulder". I also ran a tap through the existing holes and threaded plugs where there are voids going directly to the hub.

Those panels are a bear and there is definitely a right way and a wrong way. I scratched up my bars and vowed to not do it on reinstall at the finish. I found two things - wrap the bars in good duct tape and flex the panel more than you think you need to. I found SEM trim black to be a near perfect match for color and sheen but I am sure there are others.

[Papa]

...I also ran a tap through the existing holes and threaded plugs where there are voids going directly to the hub.


Tim,

Are you referring to these holes?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216922&d=1753717539

[PNWTim]

Tim,

Are you referring to these holes?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216922&d=1753717539

Yep, those are them. I think they are a perfect fit for 1/4" and 3/8" taps if I remember correctly (but please verify). I know others have made a little cover for them as well. Here is a picture of mine:

216926

[The Stig]

First off, congrats! And secondly, you have a phenomenal garage!!!

Rob

I was just thinking the same thing. That is an awesome space to work! Congrats! I wouldn't mind having something very similar when I grow up. :)

Enjoy the build.

Mike

[Papa]

Papa's pit crew!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216964&d=1753797275

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216963&d=1753797275

I had all of my grandkids here for the weekend. The tall carrot-top is my oldest grandson, Daniel. He was just a toddler when I started my MK4 build eight years ago.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216965&d=1753797563

[JimStone]

Nice pit crew!

[Papa]

My headers came back from Jet-Hot and they look great.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216986&d=1753823791

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216985&d=1753823791

Now for the progress on the build for today. I took on the IRS differential install today. That thing came looking for my man card and almost got it! In the end, it was a jack, multiple ratchet straps, some colorful language, and patience that got it done.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216983&d=1753823791

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216984&d=1753823791

I expect my new knuckle bearing kit to arrive sometime today, and I'll be tackling that tomorrow.

[PNWTim]

Headers look great, pretty impressed with their turnaround time. The rear diff is an exercise in patience and rage control followed by an upper division class in geometry and contortionism. Miraculously, they do eventually line up.

[Papa]

I was able to get the toe link bushing pressed into the knuckle at a local machine shop, so on to the task of installing the rear suspension and brakes! I got a lot done today with a pile of empty boxes to break down for the recycler.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217269&d=1754435146

Everything went together with no issues at all. I needed to spread a few of the tab mounts, but other than that, it went together pretty smoothly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217266&d=1754435146

I bought the Wilwood Electric Parking Brake kit for the Coupe and it mounted directly where the provided e-brake caliper would normally mount.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217267&d=1754435146

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217268&d=1754435146

I'll need to revisit this feature when I start laying out the electrical to see where I want to mount the controller, run the harnesses, and what switch I'll end up using and where that will go.

Next up will be the fuel tank install, which is already mostly assembled.

[Papa]

Today I installed the front and rear sway bars. I thought this would be a quick 30-minute task, but it was quite a bit more complicated than I expected. First, the front sway bar instructions I downloaded don't show or discuss the Coupe chassis, so I had to sort of wing it based on what I could see that looked like it would work. I'd appreciate any additional eyes on my install to let me know if I did anything wrong.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217350&d=1754610479

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217351&d=1754610479

On the rear, the instructions were better, and it went mostly as they described. One thing I did differently was with the placement of the spacers on the mounting locations on the upper rod-ends. I swapped the 1/2" spacer to the oposite side to give me an angle that didn't bind against the mounts and the bar.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217353&d=1754610479

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217352&d=1754610479

Overall, it was a satisfying day in the shop. I was very pleased that I didn't have to cut all the rod-ends down as the instructions indicated. The only other issue I encountered was getting the holes on the sway bar ends opened up so that the bolts would go through them. I used a round file and cleaned out the coating and rough edges at the hole openings to get the bolts to go in without hanging up.

[Papa]

I'm waiting on a drop trunk kit to arrive before I install the fuel tank, but I laid out the Wilwood EPB components to see what I was up against from a wiring standpoint. It's actually very straight forward. Each caliper connects to the harness:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217416&d=1754779049

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217417&d=1754779049

The plugs clear the springs by about 3/4" and I'll zip-tie the wires back over the plug to keep them out of the springs, which I think should be fine. It would be nice if the plug was a 90 degree vs. straight plug.

The control module simply connects to the harness with one large plug.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217418&d=1754779049

This needs to be installed inside the car in a dry location, so I'll need to figure out where it will live down the road.

The provided switch is a three-position momentary switch that you rotate one way to turn the brakes on and the other way to turn them off. It also has an LED that can be wired to light up when the brake is on. The switch has a pigtail that is color-keyed to the wires in the main harness, so very simple to connect it up.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217415&d=1754779049

Finally, there are just three wires to connect to make it all come to life; a +12v battery wire, a +12v switched power wire, and a ground wire.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217419&d=1754779049

[Lugnut Mark]

Thank you for all the detailed pictures … I’m pretty sure they will come in handy when my coupe arrives …..btw I really like how you have indexed everything in your first post !! Keep up the great work .

[Papa]

Thank you for all the detailed pictures … I’m pretty sure they will come in handy when my coupe arrives …..btw I really like how you have indexed everything in your first post !! Keep up the great work .

Thank you! I like to try to give back to this community that has given so much. Documenting my build is one way I am able to do that. It also is a great reference for me down the road when I'm trying to remember how something looks or how I modified some aspect of the car.

[Papa]

I found a nice looking battery tray for the Optima battery I will be using in my Coupe. I'm thinking of mounting to the FFR tray, or simply mounting it directly to the frame. I can make either work.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217521&d=1755039700

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217522&d=1755039700

[Papa]

I ordered a drop trunk kit from Brent (Snakebite Motorworks (https://snakebitemotorworks.com/?syclid=e4e0269e-39d7-40c2-a14a-0397dc068b4d)) that arrived today. I'd like to say for the record how well done this kit is! I spent some time mocking it up and marking the trunk floor panel that I'll need to cut a big piece out of. The only thing I needed to do was trim a 1/16" of an inch out of the rear facing panel where it is notched to clear the frame tubes. It was hitting the weld and not allowing the box to sit flush with the floor at the rear of the trunk.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217523&d=1755039700

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217524&d=1755039700

The bottom of the kit actually aligns the access over the fuel sender better than the location on the FFR floor, and there are nutsets already installed!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217525&d=1755039700

This is what it looks like in the frame of the Coupe.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217526&d=1755039729

[460.465USMC]

Looking good. Much nicer than the DIY trunk box I cobbled together! (Although I did enjoy the process). I plan to hit up Snakebite for a couple items as well. They look like quality. Thanks for the review.

[Papa]

Looking good. Much nicer than the DIY trunk box I cobbled together! (Although I did enjoy the process). I plan to hit up Snakebite for a couple items as well. They look like quality. Thanks for the review.

One of my regrets on my MK4 build was skipping the drop trunk. I'm planning on lining it with the same trunk liner material I used on the MK4 trunk. I'm also looking at adding a latch for the lid and have a plan for that.

[burchfieldb]

I ordered a drop trunk kit from Brent (Snakebite Motorworks (https://snakebitemotorworks.com/?syclid=e4e0269e-39d7-40c2-a14a-0397dc068b4d)) that arrived today. I'd like to say for the record how well done this kit is! I spent some time mocking it up and marking the trunk floor panel that I'll need to cut a big piece out of. The only thing I needed to do was trim a 1/6" of an inch out of the rear facing panel where it is notched to clear the frame tubes. It was hitting the weld and not allowing the box to sit flush with the floor at the rear of the trunk.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217523&d=1755039700

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217524&d=1755039700

The bottom of the kit actually aligns the access over the fuel sender better than the location on the FFR floor, and there are nutsets already installed!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217525&d=1755039700

This is what it looks like in the frame of the Coupe.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217526&d=1755039729

Thanks for the great feedback on this! I will open up that cutout a little more to account for the variation in welds. I used a similar battery mounting tray and attached it to the frame with nutserts. I had to make some spacers for the front where the smaller cross tubes are.

[Papa]

Today I continued working on installing the drop trunk. Once the box was assembled and mounted, it was time to measure and mark the Coupe floor for the cutout. I flipped the floor upside down and used the marking to locate the position of the drop trunk lid and then taped the area as a guide for my saw.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217584&d=1755217020

I then flipped the floor back over to verify that the measurements and position were correct.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217585&d=1755217020

Now for the "no going back" moment -- time to cut the floor. I left some material when I cut it so that I could sneak up on the fit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217586&d=1755217020

Once the lid was fitting correctly, I positioned the hinge, I drilled the holes in the floor and mounted the door to the hinge and the hinge to the floor using 3/16" clecos.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217587&d=1755217020

I also received a set of "slam latches" from Amazon that I will be looking to incorporate (one) in the lid. This will serve two purposes. It will keep the lid closed and provide a handle to lift the lid for access.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217588&d=1755217771

[Papa]

Today I installed the "slam latch" in the door of the Snakebite Motorworks drop trunk. I think it looks pretty good and was very easy to install. For the catch, I tapped two #10-24 holes into the tube at the top-rear of the trunk/hatch area on the chassis rather than using metal screws in that location.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217607&d=1755285346

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217610&d=1755285346

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217608&d=1755285346

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217609&d=1755285346

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217611&d=1755285346

I plan to use some felt anti-squeak tape on the rim of the box to help keep the lid from rattling. That will wait until final assembly.

[Papa]

Yesterday I was able to install the fuel tank. The new tank FFR is supplying already has mounting provisions for the filler tube retaining ring, which was a nice add and eliminates the risk of drilling too close to the weld seam.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217752&d=1755610098

I put some foam strip along the edge of the tank where the tank comes into contact with the chassis. This isn't called out in the manual or provided by FFR, but it really should be in my opinion.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217753&d=1755610098

Next, I persuaded the 3/8" bolts through the hanger straps and then used a floor jack to lift and hold the tank in position while I got the front of the straps on the bolts. Everything fits nice and tight with no issues.

[Papa]

I ordered and received the I.E.427 self-cancelling turn signal kit from Frank. The kit looks good and Frank doesn't even need you to send in your hub for machining anymore; he provided everything you need.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217749&d=1755610098

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217750&d=1755610098

The setup has two switches now as well. One momentary switch that is set up to operate the horn, and a secondary switch that can be used for high/low beam operation or hazard flashers. I plan to use the momentary switch with the IDIDIT headlight relay to operate my high/low beams and then will use the secondary switch for the hazard flashers. I also plan to swap out the lever with something slimmer, which there seem to be a lot of options to choose from.

Something like this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-s1ms-13305-a?rrec=true

[Nigel Allen]

That's a nice robust looking solution from Frank and the stalk upgrade from Summit tops it off perfectly. I really liked the quality of Russ Thompson's kit, which I put on my mk4, but the VW mechanism is becoming unreliable after only a few seasons use.

I reckon Frank has made a winner.

Enjoying following your build.

Cheers,

Nige

[Blitzboy54]

Papa,

Quality of this build is looking just as meticulous as your MK4. I also used Franks turn signal and have been very happy with it. Enjoying following along with your retirement build.

[i.e.427]

While it's not a direct bolt on, the stalk, or lever arm is pretty easy to upgrade by the end user. I believe the one we used is the same as the one you linked from Summit but I found it was less expensive on ebay with free shipping. We also have two quick release options for the turn signal hub and two quick release option for the Mk5 when using the Factory Five included turn signal. I'm really bad at advertising, as a few customers have pointed out recently. I really need to get back into letting folks know about all the different parts we manufacture, fabricate and sell. I need to do better.

Frank


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b1C3nd6SPdI

[Papa]

Today I tackled the battery tray install. I ordered a nice looking tray from Amazon and then drilled and countersunk holes in the tray that allowed me to then drill and install nutserts in the chassis to mount the tray to.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217832&d=1755731723

I cleaned the powder coating off the chassis around one of the nutserts so that I could capture the battery ground between the chassis and the tray, same way the manual shows with the provided tray. I used a couple of washers on the other side to take up the gap created by the smaller tubes and then installed the battery and hold-down brackets specifically designed for the Optima battery.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217833&d=1755731723

I like the way it looks, and it is very solid.

[Papa]

Next up was the Wilwood pedal box install. This is pretty straight forward per the manual. Since I'm going with the Coyote engine, I didn't drill or install the clutch safety switch. There is a different switch configuration used for the Coyote that will get done once I buy the engine and get the rest of the goodies that FFR provides with the engine and transmission.

One minor issue I came across is that the holes used to mount the top reinforcement bracket provided by FFR are full of powder coat and the screws wanted to bind before threading all the way in.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217834&d=1755731723

The solution is to simply chase the threads with a tap and clean the powder coat out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217835&d=1755731723

And the pedal box is installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217836&d=1755731723

[PNWTim]

Looks like F5 might be making gradual improvements. Either they fixed the support bracket fitment or you got lucky. My car is only 7 months ahead of yours and the pedal box support bracket required cutting, shaping and welding to fit correctly. This was a known problem so hopefully it made it to engineering and a correction. I also don't believe my holes were slotted as yours look to be.

[Papa]

Looks like F5 might be making gradual improvements. Either they fixed the support bracket fitment or you got lucky. My car is only 7 months ahead of yours and the pedal box support bracket required cutting, shaping and welding to fit correctly. This was a known problem so hopefully it made it to engineering and a correction. I also don't believe my holes were slotted as yours look to be.

Mine didn't require any tweaking at all. Thank you, Factory Five!

[Papa]

I got a full day in the shop today! First up was replacing the turn signal switch lever to something a bit more vintage than the perfectly functional lever Frank ships his switches with. I bought a Scott Drake switch for a 1964-1966 Mustang (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SDK-C5ZZ-13305-A) and then modified it per Frank's instructions.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217953&d=1756080975

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217952&d=1756080975

The only step I skipped was bending the new arm. I don't think the straight arm will be an issue, but I can always change it later if I need to.

My next task was to install the brake master cylinders on the pedal box and adjust the bias bar. I pretty much just followed the instructions in the build manual, and everything fit like it was supposed to. After installing the master cylinders, I adjusted the brake light switch so that the switch closes with about an inch of pedal movement.

Click on the image below to watch the video short:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217963&d=1756083349 (https://www.youtube.com/watch/icoM42I4-6s)

Finally, I started fitting and drilling the aluminum panels, starting with the passenger foot box. I actually found that drilling the panels was easier to do directly on the car rather than loose like most recommend. There are a few areas that are behind parts of the chassis or in tight areas that are a lot more obvious when mounted.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217954&d=1756080975

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217955&d=1756080975

Once I have all the panels fitted and drilled, they'll be going to a local powder coater. I'm considering a gloss black or dark silver/gray color for the PC.

[PNWTim]

It's funny, I never realized some drill them off the frame. I mounted them essentially exactly where I wanted them then drilled away. Just shows there are multiple ways to do this.

[Lugnut Mark]

Dave … did you buy all those Cleo’s separately or does it come with your coupe kit ? I currently only have like 50 Cleo’s and it appears like they will get used up pretty quickly !!

[Papa]

Dave … did you buy all those Cleo’s separately or does it come with your coupe kit ? I currently only have like 50 Cleo’s and it appears like they will get used up pretty quickly !!

Mark,

Clecos don't come with the kit. I have quite a bit more than what is needed, but like to put one in every hole when fitting and drilling just to be sure everything stays exactly where I want it. Check out Amazon for some good deals. You should have 15-20 3/16" and 50-100 1/8" Clecos and the tool to use them.

[Lugnut Mark]

That’s what I thought thanks for the info!

[Papa]

Yesterday I spent less time working on the car, and more time abusing my checkbook! I wanted to give a shout out to our vendors that support this great community. These guys help add those refined touches to an already well-engineered kit. Special thanks to:

Frank - I.E.427
Brent - Snakebite Motorworks
Mark - Breeze Automotive

The products and customer service these guys provide is amazing.

Thank you,
Dave

[burchfieldb]

Yesterday I spent less time working on the car, and more time abusing my checkbook! I wanted to give a shout out to our vendors that support this great community. These guys help add those refined touches to an already well-engineered kit. Special thanks to:

Frank - I.E.427
Brent - Snakebite Motorworks
Mark - Breeze Automotive

The products and customer service these guys provide is amazing.

Thank you,
Dave

I appreciate the shout out Dave. I have met a lot of great people in this community and look foward to offering great products and service to help refine the builds.

[460.465USMC]

It feels good to get the panels started, no? It looks like you're planning to rivet the "removable" HVAC access panel? I drilled mine like you did, but having second thoughts that I should have installed nut serts.

[Papa]

It feels good to get the panels started, no? It looks like you're planning to rivet the "removable" HVAC access panel? I drilled mine like you did, but having second thoughts that I should have installed nut serts.

I'm enjoying fitting the panels, but I guess I should pay a bit more attention to detail so I don't miss something like the A/C access panel. I'll likely just rivet it now that it's drilled. I've had mixed results using nut serts to join aluminum panels. As a matter of fact, I broke my #10-24 nut sert mandrel today while installing nut serts for the driver's foot box top panel. I need to look at the A/C instructions before pulling the panels to send to PC, as there are additional holes to drill.

[Papa]

Today I worked on fitting the driver's foot box aluminum. These took a bit of work to get where they needed to be, but eventually came together nicely.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218188&d=1756420044

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218189&d=1756420044

I'm going to make the top removable, so I started installing nut serts. As I was installing #6, the mandrel snapped. I'm sure I was applying too much force. Thankfully, the replacements are cheap and I'll have two new ones delivered tomorrow from Amazon.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218190&d=1756420044

The biggest issue is that I'll now have a nut sert rattling around inside the frame. I don't think there is any way to fish it out. If I can get it to where I can see it through the hole, I'll squirt a dab of silicone on it to try to hold it in place.

[Papa]

Today I focused on test fitting the A/C and heater unit to get the position of the holes located on the front of the foot box where the bulkheads go for the A/C and heater hoses. First step was to position the evaporator unit in the car and ensure that the A/C, heater, and drain lines would clear the frame.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218313&d=1756773773

Next, I drilled and tapped #10-24 holes directly into the frame to mount the evaporator rather using the self-tapping screws provided.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218314&d=1756773773

I found that to get clearance for the drain fitting, I needed to hang the evaporator a little below the frame, and used a stack of stainless steel washers on the front mount to take of the space.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218315&d=1756773773

Now on to a more complex step; locating the bulkhead fitting. To do this, I screwed in the #10 fitting on the evaporator and cut a piece of hose long enough the allow me to locate the spot on the footbox that the fitting aligned with. After marking the location, I drilled a small hole in the location (center of the #10 fitting) and then located the template on the outside of the footbox.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218316&d=1756773773

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218317&d=1756773773

I had to order a 7/8" hole saw, but will drill the holes once that arrives.

[PNWTim]

Looks good Dave. Be aware, the spacing the bracket dictates for the two hoses is wider (taller) than that of the block the male ends thread into. It makes for an awkward fit at best but it will fit. I essentially lined mine up just like you did and made sure the big, less flexible #10 hose was as straight a shot as I could make it.

[burchfieldb]

I'm enjoying fitting the panels, but I guess I should pay a bit more attention to detail so I don't miss something like the A/C access panel. I'll likely just rivet it now that it's drilled. I've had mixed results using nut serts to join aluminum panels. As a matter of fact, I broke my #10-24 nut sert mandrel today while installing nut serts for the driver's foot box top panel. I need to look at the A/C instructions before pulling the panels to send to PC, as there are additional holes to drill.

Dave, these are also good for attaching sheet metal pieces together if you have an arbor press. The hole size needs to be as specified for them to work.
https://www.mcmaster.com/product/95185A350

[Papa]

I picked up a set of cheap Mustang wheels and tires for rollers.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218445&d=1757030481

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218446&d=1757030481

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218447&d=1757030481

They are pretty rough condition, but will do the trick. The backspacing on the rears was way too big and I ended up having to put some cheap 1.5" spacers on to allow the wheels to clear the shocks.

I also received my Breeze and Snakebite Motorworks orders and everything looks fantastic. More to come on this.

[PNWTim]

Although I think the shop dog is a girl, she looked like she wanted to lift a leg and break in those tires.

[Papa]

Although I think the shop dog is a girl, she looked like she wanted to lift a leg and break in those tires.

That's my little Lady. She would never lift a leg, but she might squat and leave her mark.

[burchfieldb]

Looks like she might be investigating a new napping spot.

[Papa]

Looks like she might be investigating a new napping spot.

That's a lot more likely!

[460.465USMC]

I picked up a set of cheap Mustang wheels and tires for rollers.

They are pretty rough condition, but will do the trick. The backspacing on the rears was way too big and I ended up having to put some cheap 1.5" spacers on to allow the wheels to clear the shocks.

I also received my Breeze and Snakebite Motorworks orders and everything looks fantastic. More to come on this.

Congrats on hitting the roller stage! Will you be moving her over to the lift for some back-saving goodness?

[Lugnut Mark]

Looks good Dave … just out of curiosity what lugs are you using for roller purposes ?

[Papa]

Congrats on hitting the roller stage! Will you be moving her over to the lift for some back-saving goodness?

Chris,

She's not quite a roller yet. I still need so install the steering shaft and brake lines. I'd been on the lookout for a set of wheels/tires I could use for rollers, and found this set for $300. The rear tires are burned down to slicks, but they hold air and I won't be driving on any public roads with them.

[Papa]

Looks good Dave … just out of curiosity what lugs are you using for roller purposes ?

Mark,

I picked up a set of open lug nuts (1/2-20) for under $20 on Amazon.

https://a.co/d/hrUZms1

[Papa]

After seeing the quality of Brent's products (Snakebite Motorworks) with the drop trunk kit, I placed another order for several more items, including a glove box kit, horn mounting brackets, triple reservoir mounting bracket and polished bezel, and several aluminum panels.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218486&d=1757185829

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218485&d=1757185829

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218487&d=1757185829

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218488&d=1757185829

I'll be placing another order in the future for some additional items Brent is working on.

[Papa]

Today, I was excited to assemble the glove box kit. It went together perfectly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218489&d=1757186436

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218490&d=1757186436

Now for the fun part; cutting the big hole in the dash! For this, Brent provides a scale template, but first, I located the assembled box on the back side of the dash and marked some of the mounting holes to help locate the template.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218491&d=1757186436

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218492&d=1757186436

Once the dash was properly marked, I used a 2" hole saw on my drill press to cut the radiused parts of the opening and simply finished by marking and cutting the lines tangent to the holes on all four sides. From there, it was just test fitting the box and getting the gap needed to accommodate the material that I'll be using to wrap the dash later on.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218494&d=1757186451

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218493&d=1757186436

And what it looks like mounted in the car.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218495&d=1757186451

I plan to use the same trunk liner material I used to do the trunk in my MK4 to line the glove box.

[PNWTim]

Looks great! I was hoping to use the same thing but my dash layout doesn't accommodate it. Brent makes quality stuff for sure.

[Lugnut Mark]

Thank you sir .. that’s just what I needed to know !

[Papa]

Looks great! I was hoping to use the same thing but my dash layout doesn't accommodate it. Brent makes quality stuff for sure.

Thanks, Tim. I have a 2" sanding drum ordered to clean up the corners, but not too bad for a start using a round file.

[GoDadGo]

Papa Dave,

How do you feel doing this build compared to your first?

Steve

[Papa]

Papa Dave,

How do you feel doing this build compared to your first?

Steve

Steve,

I feel more relaxed on my second build. The Coupe has a lot in common with the MK4, but still enough diffences to keep me challenged. I also don't feel like I have to get it done as fast as I can, and in fact, don't want to get it done quickly.

Dave

[Papa]

Today I spent some more time cleaning up the opening in the dash for the glove box. I got a 2" sanding drum that I could put on a drill and got the opening looking much better.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218663&d=1757549263

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218664&d=1757549263

I also tested the 3-D wrap material thickness in the opening to be sure nothing rubbed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218665&d=1757549263

Finally, I wanted to see if the trunk liner material I used on the MK4 trunk would look okay in the glove box. I'm not convinced yet and may want to look at something else.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218666&d=1757549263

[Papa]

Next up was the triple reservoir bracket and bezel from Snakebite Motorworks. First step was to assemble the bracket. This requires tapping 5/16-18 threads into the FFR brackets and then mounting them to the Snakebite Motorworks bracket.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218668&d=1757549923

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218670&d=1757549923

Next step is to mount the bracket to the frame rail. This requires pulling some pretty stout 3/16" stainless steel rivets. I had to increase the air pressure to 90 psi on my pneumatic riveter to pull them. I tried by hand first, but that wasn't going to happen. :o

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218671&d=1757549923

Once in position, I marked and drilled the engine bay frame rail panel, also from Snakebite Motorworks. This required some patience and accuracy, but it worked out perfectly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218672&d=1757549923

And finally, drilling the bezel bolt holes and attaching the bezel to the panel. You have to do this with the panel removed, so if you plan to use these parts, keep that in mind.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218673&d=1757549937

I really like how Brent's setup makes this look finished.

[burchfieldb]

Today I spent some more time cleaning up the opening in the dash for the glove box. I got a 2" sanding drum that I could put on a drill and got the opening looking much better.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218663&d=1757549263

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218664&d=1757549263

I also tested the 3-D wrap material thickness in the opening to be sure nothing rubbed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218665&d=1757549263

Finally, I wanted to see if the trunk liner material I used on the MK4 trunk would look okay in the glove box. I'm not convinced yet and may want to look at something else.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218666&d=1757549263

Dave, you could potentially flock the inside of it. I have not tried it but I am thinking about testing it on the door pockets. I used this underfelt for my door pockets and it worked well.
https://a.co/d/dK4Ybnj

I glued it with the Landua Top and Trim
https://a.co/d/6mwrCnA

218676

Your build is looking really good! If you decide to do the felt, I can walk through how I did the door pocket.

[Papa]

Dave, you could potentially flock the inside of it. I have not tried it but I am thinking about testing it on the door pockets. I used this underfelt for my door pockets and it worked well.
https://a.co/d/dK4Ybnj

I glued it with the Landua Top and Trim
https://a.co/d/6mwrCnA

218676

Your build is looking really good! If you decide to do the felt, I can walk through how I did the door pocket.

Thanks, Brent. I'll take a look at the links. I've looked at the flocking kits and a couple of videos. My only concern is durability.

[burchfieldb]

Thanks, Brent. I'll take a look at the links. I've looked at the flocking kits and a couple of videos. My only concern is durability.

Mine as well. It is not something that I have tried. The underfelt worked really well on the door pockets and was not too thick.

[Skuzzy]

Neoprene material (https://www.amazon.com/FLKQC-Neoprene-Adhesive-Multiple-Dimensions/dp/B09TXFBNWH/ref=sr_1_9?adgrpid=1335907192766453&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.hBW9zQ0p49MAy5MJjfsTR2J44EEaDLRnb TjEsZlM2OJ_ElFsbmxzGnIifIufSsa8syv_VNZkN2qjgDt0qDb Imks7zfCWB0Wu8ar0DmZ9vSpHj-Iq3X4qALWH8Jeu0O2Gl7iNijiHb0kRjeiCJGL0l1-oLH906nuPCKEDONVHrnsfqnyF6o3GMCsdQFd86ZDckL6kVw-7Dxz-xkq8T_Zbxk-9BppQbQWATNileWsYHh0vvg5YopeW5foCMvgKHvCgAOK0FqAFQ G82YaDELF7_2kGRMod-Pq7xV7CiKVu6AAw.s1xaCSTUkqiepw9obu-E81yhnWzDMdN-Ma1H6W-aUII&dib_tag=se&hvadid=83494586621409&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=76727&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83494547002127%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=24658_13769732&keywords=neoprene%2Bmaterial&mcid=098edff3e3ae3c7ebe4c3c0746723efc&msclkid=34e4af0e6ffb1c779a78c7ccc79d1215&qid=1757587578&sr=8-9&th=1) is a good option for the glovebox.

[Papa]

Making some progress on getting all the holes drilled in the engine bay aluminum. I bought a 7/8" hole saw bit for my drill that did a great job with the heater and A/C holes for the bulkhead fittings that FFR provides. The bit has a spring that pops out the plug when you drill the panel so that you don't have to dig it out of the bit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218754&d=1757722121

The bulkhead fittings in place:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218755&d=1757722121

More fitting and drilling:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218756&d=1757722121

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218757&d=1757722121

I still have a bit more to figure out in the engine bay before I mark the panels ready for powder coating.

[Papa]

Next up ... figuring out how I want to run the brake reservoir hoses between the master cylinders and the reservoirs. I initially thought I'd run all three hoses through the clutch cable opening, but that puts them in an awkward position at the reservoirs and leaves me with trying to seal up the gaps created on that opening.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218758&d=1757722141

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218760&d=1757722141

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218759&d=1757722141

I think a cleaner approach will be to plug that hole and use three 90-degree bulkhead fittings that allow me to keep gentle curves/bends in the hoses inside the footbox as well as outside.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218761&d=1757722141

[Lugnut Mark]

Sorry Dave …I’m just making sure I know how to attach pics to posts … anyway if this works here’s a pic of the race car I sold to build my coupe!218811218812

[8secDuster]

Dang Mark.
That's Nice!

[Lugnut Mark]

Thank you sir … she was fast as well

[Papa]

Sorry Dave …I’m just making sure I know how to attach pics to posts … anyway if this works here’s a pic of the race car I sold to build my coupe!218811218812

Beautiful!

[8secDuster]

Thank you sir … she was fast as well

I bet.
How fast?

[8secDuster]

Sorry Papa... don't mean to hijack

[Papa]

Today, I spent some time pondering the routing of my reservoir to MC hoses. I looked at using some 90 degree bulkhead fittings inboard of the clutch cable hole at the top of the footboard, but now I'm second guessing that. I ran the hoses back through the clutch cable hole and can easily connect to the reservoirs. I did some digging and found a few ways to use that location and still seal off any heat getting into the footbox. I'm making a patch panel that will fit three bulkhead fittings in the 1-1/2" opening. I think I have something that will work mocked up. Once I get it cleaned up, I'll post some pictures.

[PNWTim]

I have sidestepped doing this for quite a while as I was waiting on a bracket from Snakebite. While waiting, I purchased 90 degree AN fittings for the reservoirs, -3 hose with fittings to make custom hoses, straight bulkhead fittings for the passthrough and the Wilwood AN hats for the MCs.

I still am not sure I will go this route and I know Paul made a sort of "clover leaf" cover for that clutch hole for his Coupe build that probably sealed it up pretty well. I will be interested to see what you come up with since I am finally ready to install as well.

[460.465USMC]

Hi Dave. FWIW I also routed my hoses through the clutch hole. I made this little panel with holes to route the hoses from the reservoirs. I traced the contour around the chassis, which allowed me to close up the gaps as well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218949&d=1758033579


Here's what it looks like in place. Not the best angle, but you can get the idea.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214713&d=1749243208

[Papa]

Hi Dave. FWIW I also routed my hoses through the clutch hole. I made this little panel with holes to route the hoses from the reservoirs. I traced the contour around the chassis, which allowed me to close up the gaps as well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218949&d=1758033579


Here's what it looks like in place. Not the best angle, but you can get the idea.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214713&d=1749243208

Chris,

I'm doing something similar, but using bulkhead connectors. I'd be concerned about the hoses being in direct contact with the panel since vibration could cause the panel to wear a cut into them over time.

[Papa]

I spent a bit of time waiting for parts to arrive to try my idea of fitting three bulkhead barbed passthrough fittings into the space of the clutch opening.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219255&d=1758646395

The good news is that they fit, but the bad news is that with my reservoirs mounted, there isn't any space to get one of the hoses and a clamp into the barb.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219256&d=1758646395

So, back to the Internet to see if I could find some 90-degree barbed bulkhead fittings. The ones I got through Amazon that were listed as 1/4" barbs are more like 3/16" and don't fit the hose well. In my searching for different parts, I came across a different solution that I am going to try. I found some brass bulkhead fittings with 1/8" NPT threads that will allow me to attach barbed fittings with 1/8" NPT threads on one end and 1/4" barb on the other.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219257&d=1758646395

I'll follow-up once these arrive and if I decide to use them or not.

[Papa]

Here is what I've come up with:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219320&d=1758731116

I know it looks convoluted, but it addresses my concerns of keeping the hoses away from the moving parts of the pedal box, eliminating tight bends in the hoses, and protecting the hoses from sharp edges of the footbox panel. I know it adds a lot of potential opportunities for leaks, but this part of the system is under very low/no pressure. We'll see how things lay out in reality once I have everything in hand.

[Nigel Allen]

Just make sure all of the hose is compatible with brake fluid. Mine wasn't. The fluid sweated through the hose over a few months. It was an ugly mess, but lucky to catch it early on.

Cheers,

Nige.

[Skuzzy]

Nothing wrong with what you propose. Pipe threads are a good call.

Do not use any Teflon tape on the threads. Brake fluid will dissolve the polymer base the teflon is embedded in. Use Loctite 545 for the thread sealant.

[Papa]

Just make sure all of the hose is compatible with brake fluid. Mine wasn't. The fluid sweated through the hose over a few months. It was an ugly mess, but lucky to catch it early on.

Cheers,

Nige.

The hose inside the footbox will be what came with the Wilwood master cylinders. The AN lines will be PTFE lined.

[Papa]

I got some things done in the shop yesterday. First, I made a simple patch to cover the clutch hole opening in the driver's footbox.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219377&d=1758899765

I also installed the clutch safety switch so that I could be sure to route the brake hoses and lines to not interfere with the switch.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219378&d=1758899765

I also laid all the cockpit aluminum back in the car to refamiliarize myself with the placement and overlap order before I start marking and drilling the rivet holes. Some of the panels are going to need some finessing of the bends as many others have pointed out. Looks like I'll be adding another tool to the tool box. :p

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219381&d=1758899765

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219380&d=1758899765

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219379&d=1758899765

[TBull]

[QUOTE=Papa;592157]Here is what I've come up with:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219320&d=1758731116

I used something like this on the back side for my heater hose routing behind a bulkhead

https://www.racetronix.biz/p/hose-fitting-push-lock-90-4-an-jic-female-black/fit-209004

and had a standard AN bulkhead fitting for my pass through. Look on the passenger side of my engine bay. Then the rest of your pic still works.

[Papa]

I was able to mock up the brake and clutch reservoir setup I sketched out above. I think it will work just fine.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219533&d=1759092580

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219535&d=1759092580

I also fit and drilled the radiator aluminum.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219536&d=1759092580

[PNWTim]

Looks good Dave - moving right along. Your hoses look good. I was actually doing something similar, then changed my mind, then changed my mind again. But now I think I have a plan.

[Papa]

Looks good Dave - moving right along. Your hoses look good. I was actually doing something similar, then changed my mind, then changed my mind again. But now I think I have a plan.

Thanks, Tim. I appreciate the sanity check on those side radiator panels, too.

Dave

[Skid]

Oh I’m really looking forward to this retirement project. I loved following your Cobra build. It really helped with my build.

[Lugnut Mark]

looks killer Dave ..... I'm an old school drag racer at heart so any time we can do braided lines the better ! IMHO of course ! Ptfe for the win. #blacknylon lines

[Papa]

I spent a little more time on the radiator aluminum fitment after getting advice from a couple of fellow builders. First, I ground down some of the weld on the frame where the side panels were being pushed away from the frame.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219649&d=1759365403

After touching up the paint with SEM 39143 Trim Black (https://www.amazon.com/SEM-39143-Trim-Black-Aerosol/dp/B073T7FQ23/ref=sr_1_2_pp?crid=1FCBS386FJ7HT&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.p5tgidxtr6N28TM28-2kfHxfHtfs9GwWvpb5UbHtfZJlMaKVpvroSGWwj5xvW-_rlUQ3Vg51UJab-eXvT2XrCJOZ65llTXcnjOQ7_m0Zf6AI5XbqYkMMifS7DTpER5i WRYydf7IHH8vDdKI557z5xfPutXGzn9hDWdW9pAs9VFeLB_vGe O8uofdbJzJedNqBiAjamKmSPcJXo2PWx8EMj1CX4dg5rbMb9aq kqnn7UovIp64ZbqIq4rF6wbxm94QfG9KcP7QAo82IRXJOISdXZ cr7i3hq_FVlDIDNsazFqjY.pMN0LjnO5K6_6WDGW7tGiKE5tGB egSTriZH8bfLv_xo&dib_tag=se&keywords=SEM+39143+Trim+Black&qid=1759414956&s=automotive&sprefix=sem+39143+trim+black%2Cautomotive%2C130&sr=1-2) paint, the panels lay nicely against the frame. Next up was removing some of the side panels that sits just below the frame. I'm going on faith that this is the right thing to do. It's a small modification that will hopefully prevent the need to aggressively trim the underside of the nose of the body to the extent that I've seen some require.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219650&d=1759365403

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219651&d=1759365403

I also started to fit and drill the cockpit aluminum today.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219652&d=1759365403

[GoDadGo]

Thanks For Posting All These Pics Papa Dave!

[Papa]

Thanks For Posting All These Pics Papa Dave!

No problem, Steve!

[Papa]

This morning, I was reading the forum posts and came across Paul's update on running the electrical harnesses and where to place the fuse panel. This took me down a rabbit hole today. I laid out the harnesses, played a bit with placement of the fuse panel, and started thinking about how I want to run the front harness. I'm thinking of bringing it out of the driver's footbox here:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219701&d=1759455825

Further down the rabbit hole, I decided that I was going to remove the steering column plug this time to help with the tight quarters that all the wiring has to route through.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219699&d=1759455825

Next, I took a look at the rear harness along with the Wilwood EPB harness. I decided that I'd combine the two into a single loom. I'll likely end up shortening the Wilwood harness that plugs into the controller once I figure out exactly where that will get mounted.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219700&d=1759455825

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219702&d=1759455825

I took some time to verify all the wiring at each plug lined up with the opposite side of the plug. No issues with my harness that I could see. Finally, I verified the harness I modified by removing the steering column plug by checking continuity through the harness for each wire.

I also started making some additional support brackets like the ones Paul made for his fuse panel mount. I'll post a couple of pics if I can make something that looks presentable. :p

[Papa]

I finished making the small brackets to help support the fuse panel mount. They aren't as pretty as Paul's, but they do what they are supposed to do.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219844&d=1759715954

I tapped some #8-32 threads into the frame to allow the bracket to be removed easily in the future if needed. I laid in the main harness to be sure I can get the brake lines in and that the harness can be routed where it needs to go. I'm happy with how it looks.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219843&d=1759715954

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219845&d=1759715954

[Purple Venom]

Looking good Dave. Great to see you progressing!

[Papa]

More work on panel fitment and drilling today. I have most of the driver's side cockpit panels fit and drilled.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219924&d=1759969019

The only area that really gave me any trouble was the outside rear corner of the floor.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219923&d=1759969019

That corner doesn't want to fit with the under-door panel pushed all the way back to the frame. I haven't decided if I'm actually going to drill and rivel the bottom edge to/through the floor yet.

I also got the passenger floor fitted and expect I'll have the same issues when I put the under-door panel in.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219925&d=1759969019

[460.465USMC]

Next up was removing some of the side panels that sits just below the frame. I'm going on faith that this is the right thing to do. It's a small modification that will hopefully prevent the need to aggressively trim the underside of the nose of the body to the extent that I've seen some require.



Moving right along, Dave. Looking great! The nose interference issue with those side panels was not on my radar. I guess if I have an issue, I'll have some trimming to do. Though, my preference may be to trim the aluminum (like you did) instead of the nose.


I finished making the small brackets to help support the fuse panel mount. They aren't as pretty as Paul's, but they do what they are supposed to do.

I tapped some #8-32 threads into the frame to allow the bracket to be removed easily in the future if needed. I laid in the main harness to be sure I can get the brake lines in and that the harness can be routed where it needs to go. I'm happy with how it looks.


Look good to me. This seems to be the thing to do. Will likely do the same when I tackle wiring in the near future. Thanks for the pictures.



The only area that really gave me any trouble was the outside rear corner of the floor.

That corner doesn't want to fit with the under-door panel pushed all the way back to the frame. I haven't decided if I'm actually going to drill and rivel the bottom edge to/through the floor yet.


I had the same experience. FWIW, I didn't put any rivets along the bottom diagonals in the rear corners. Didn't want to try to force it. I also didn't put any along the floor. I don't think F5 shows rivets in either place.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218174&d=1756405470

[Papa]

Moving right along, Dave. Looking great! The nose interference issue with those side panels was not on my radar. I guess if I have an issue, I'll have some trimming to do. Though, my preference may be to trim the aluminum (like you did) instead of the nose.



Look good to me. This seems to be the thing to do. Will likely do the same when I tackle wiring in the near future. Thanks for the pictures.



I had the same experience. FWIW, I didn't put any rivets along the bottom diagonals in the rear corners. Didn't want to try to force it. I also didn't put any along the floor. I don't think F5 shows rivets in either place.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218174&d=1756405470

Thanks, Chris. I find myself winging it quite a bit with the panel positions. Ultimately, nobody will ever see where I put the rivets for the most part, as pretty much everything in the cockpit gets covered up anyway. I am trying to put the rivets in from the outside where they will be visible from under the car for the panel-to-panel attachments.

Dave

[460.465USMC]

Thanks, Chris. I find myself winging it quite a bit with the panel positions. Ultimately, nobody will ever see where I put the rivets for the most part, as pretty much everything in the cockpit gets covered up anyway. I am trying to put the rivets in from the outside where they will be visible from under the car for the panel-to-panel attachments.

Dave

Me too, even though only my eyes will ever see 'em. :p

Keep up the stellar work.

[Papa]

Here is a peek at the gauges I'm going with ...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220144&d=1760408592

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220145&d=1760408592

I'm trying to lay out a plan for all the electrical as early in the build as I can. I wonder if my wife would kill me if I got these for her for our 40th anniversary this December? :p

[PNWTim]

Excellent idea for the 40th Anniversary gift....said no one ever!

The gauges are nice looking. Guessing all electronic?

[Nigel Allen]

Here is a peek at the gauges I'm going with ...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220144&d=1760408592

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220145&d=1760408592

I'm trying to lay out a plan for all the electrical as early in the build as I can. I wonder if my wife would kill me if I got these for her for our 40th anniversary this December? :p

It would certainly GAUGE the strength of you marriage :p

[Papa]

Excellent idea for the 40th Anniversary gift....said no one ever!

The gauges are nice looking. Guessing all electronic?

They are Dakota Digital VHX-1060, all digital.

https://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=919/mode=prod/prd919.htm

[460.465USMC]

I'm trying to lay out a plan for all the electrical as early in the build as I can. I wonder if my wife would kill me if I got these for her for our 40th anniversary this December? :p

If your build thread ends abruptly in December, either you took an extended anniversary trip, or.......:p

[Nigel Allen]

I really like those gauges, especially when lit. Will really suit the Daytona

[Papa]

I really like those gauges, especially when lit. Will really suit the Daytona

Thank you, Nigel. I like Dakota Digital stuff and these gauges are sized similar to FFR's Speedhut set. The speedometer accepts input from a trans-mouted pulse generator or using a separate GPS module from Dakota Digital, which I will get. I can also get a TPMS module that integrates with the gauges, but I have to discuss that with Dakota Dogital first according to notes on their TPMS module when used with this gauge set.

[Papa]

I got some more goodies from Brent (Snakebite Motorworks) delivered yesterday! I bought the lower transmission tunnel covers, a set of pontoon covers, and a set of hood rollers.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220316&d=1760709175

Everything is top quality. I'll share more pictures as I get the parts installed down the road.

[Papa]

With all the extra electrical gadgets I plan to put in the car, I needed a clean way to provide both switched +12v and battery +12v in a central location. Here is what I have planned right now.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220318&d=1760718133

Parts:

- Blue Sea Systems 5032 ST Blade Fuse Block Dual 12 with Ground and Cover, 100 Amps (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WM2MWQ4?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1)
- Relay 120A, 12V Continuous Duty SPST 4-pin High Power Relay (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T35K8S2?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1)
- 4 Post Power Distribution Block Bus Bar with Cover (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0882KH5SL?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1)
- 250A Mega fuse and holder
- ATO blade fuses in appropriate sizes (5A and 15A)

I'll be using a high-power relay to feed the switched power block on the sub panel. Some of the Dakota Digital Bus Interface Modules (BIM) require power connections and some get power through the BIM port connections. The Wilwood EPB has its own 40A fuse on the battery connection. That circuit will connect to the bus bar directly as it exceeds the 30A per/circuit max for the sub panel.

Now for the challenge of where to place everything so that the fuses are accessible.

[Sharris2]

This including the ron francis fuse panel?

[Papa]

This including the ron francis fuse panel?

Yes -- This is in addition to the RF fuse panel.

[PNWTim]

Looks good Dave, pretty convenient solution for tying together multiple circuits. I personally would use a self-resetting 40 amp circuit breaker for the Wilwood circuit. You can then place it anywhere convenient.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aww-500667?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjw0sfHBhB6EiwAQtv5qem7w1by-aGDNxZjviLsZphhEbuJu2-GeIWMuxUVoSVY1lYqCOxYpxoCD_EQAvD_BwE

On a side note, what did you use to draw this up?

[Papa]

I'm thinking of mounting the fuse sub-panel on the upper front panel of the driver's foot box here:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220325&d=1760728928

Any reason this is a really bad idea?

[Papa]

Looks good Dave, pretty convenient solution for tying together multiple circuits. I personally would use a self-resetting 40 amp circuit breaker for the Wilwood circuit. You can then place it anywhere convenient.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aww-500667?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjw0sfHBhB6EiwAQtv5qem7w1by-aGDNxZjviLsZphhEbuJu2-GeIWMuxUVoSVY1lYqCOxYpxoCD_EQAvD_BwE

On a side note, what did you use to draw this up?

Thanks, Tim. I'll look at the circuit breaker. I like the idea of an automatic reset capability on that circuit. I just used PowerPoint to create the diagram. I would have used Visio if I still had it available to me, but don't want to spend the $$ for it for these occasional drawings.

Dave

[Papa]

I spent some time in the shop today and got a few things done. I ordered some powder in "Silk Satin Black" from Prismatic Powders to do some small parts. Today I finished the hood roller brackets I got from Brent. The color and finish is a close match to the chassis finish:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220550&d=1761170545

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220551&d=1761170545

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220552&d=1761170545

Next I spent some time making paper templates for the items I need to find homes for behind the dash. I laid out the Dakota Digital modules for the gauges, GPS, and TPMS along with the Wilwood EPB controller:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220553&d=1761170545

The EPB controller won't work in this location as it interferes with the glove box, so I repositioned it to the trans tunnel lower cover that I also picked up from Brent.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220554&d=1761170545

The plan is to cut the bottom half of the FFR upper trans tunnel cover to open the space created by the lower trans tunnel panels from Brent. This will then be covered by a new panel that extends from the trans tunnel to the dash. I'll use that to mount the heater and A/C controls, the EPB switch and possibly other switches or a screen for the backup camera.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220555&d=1761170559

And for the last of my tasks today, I fit and drilled the passenger side cockpit aluminum.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220556&d=1761170559

[PNWTim]

Looking good Dave. I have that trans tunnel cover as well and had been thinking along the same lines as it's pretty valuable real estate right there.

I like your idea of the paper templates (I guess it's how I did my dash layout) and lord knows DD loves their control boxes. I only have two - one for cruise control and one to control my door poppers but I think I am going to end up with 7 or 8 relays, a ground bus and at least one Bat+ and Bat + switched bus. It gets crowded fast.

I miss my powder coater. I sold it and my full sized oven a few years ago to free up some space, then sold my sandblaster since I wasn't powder coating anymore. Now for small parts I paint and shoot with clear.

[Papa]

Thanks, Tim. I also got a 40A self-resetting circuit breaker for the EPB and a 200A manual reset circuit breaker for the sub fuse panel. I know where I'm going to put the fuse panel, but need to think about the other items some more. I'm trying to visualize the ducting for the heater and AC. The gauges use standard Cat 5 cables to connect to each other, so not a lot of wiring at the gauges. It's all the other harness mess that will be the bigger challenge.

[Papa]

I finished up fitting and drilling the cockpit aluminum today!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220665&d=1761340031

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220666&d=1761340031

Next step will be to do the trunk/hatch panels and then get everything to the powder coater.

I also posted a monthly update to my YouTube channel:


https://youtu.be/iiK9XViYIl4

[Papa]

I used up a little more powder today and coated the two rear body attachment brackets.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220700&d=1761437529

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220701&d=1761437529

After that I worked a bit more on possible placement of the items I want to put behind the panel that will extend from the dash to the console. I think I can actually get the fuse block I'm adding under there where it is still accessible to change fuses or to add a circuit down the road if I need to, although the space will be very tight to work with.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220702&d=1761437529

Access from the side with the panel in place ...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220703&d=1761437529

And from the front with the panel removed ...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220704&d=1761437529

[PNWTim]

Dave - I am following your console work closely, really like the direction it's going.

Relating to your first couple of pictures. It looks like the flange of your fuel tank is flush to the frame members on either end (which appears to be the correct way). Can you confirm this please? My tank sits about 1/4" off the perimeter frame members. I have been reluctant to really reef down on the two flange bolts to try and snug it up as they are pretty tight now.

I don't really see any conflicts between the tank and any fixed objects so I had somewhat resigned myself this was the way the tank fits until I looked closely at your photos.

[Papa]

Dave - I am following your console work closely, really like the direction it's going.

Relating to your first couple of pictures. It looks like the flange of your fuel tank is flush to the frame members on either end (which appears to be the correct way). Can you confirm this please? My tank sits about 1/4" off the perimeter frame members. I have been reluctant to really reef down on the two flange bolts to try and snug it up as they are pretty tight now.

I don't really see any conflicts between the tank and any fixed objects so I had somewhat resigned myself this was the way the tank fits until I looked closely at your photos.

Tim,

My tank does sit flat against the frame on the sides and back. Did you bend the tank flange flat at the strap locations both front and back?

[PNWTim]

Tim,

My tank does sit flat against the frame on the sides and back. Did you bend the tank flange flat at the strap locations both front and back?

I did bend them flat. It's just a little odd. I am going to take a close look today and see what I can discover. Do you recall if your tank went flush to the rails when you jacked/lifted it into place or did you pull if flush with the strap bolts? I tightened mine to what seemed a pretty snug amount, and I'm not sure further tightening would pull the tank any higher.

[Papa]

I did bend them flat. It's just a little odd. I am going to take a close look today and see what I can discover. Do you recall if your tank went flush to the rails when you jacked/lifted it into place or did you pull if flush with the strap bolts? I tightened mine to what seemed a pretty snug amount, and I'm not sure further tightening would pull the tank any higher.

Mine went in flat, Tim. You might need to fiddle a bit with it to get it to go all the way up. I can't imagine what it could be getting hung up on.

[burchfieldb]

I did bend them flat. It's just a little odd. I am going to take a close look today and see what I can discover. Do you recall if your tank went flush to the rails when you jacked/lifted it into place or did you pull if flush with the strap bolts? I tightened mine to what seemed a pretty snug amount, and I'm not sure further tightening would pull the tank any higher.

Mine went in flat as well. I put some adhesive backed foam between the frame and the tank. Also made sure it was not rubbing on the vertical frame mounts where the bolts go through.

[Papa]

Today I finished up fitting and drilling the rear hatch/trunk of the car.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220880&d=1761849906

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220881&d=1761849906

I want to get the rest of the odds-and-ends panels fitted that can be done without the body on the car and then it will be time to pull everything off to go to powder coat. I'm thinking of doing all the under-hood panels in a gunmetal gray color and all the interior panels in a satin black finish.

I'm also considering adding a couple of Brent's access panels in the rear panel to make it easier to get to the lighing connections that will be behind there.

[TBull]

Looking good Dave. I love following your build

[Papa]

Looking good Dave. I love following your build

Thanks, Dan!

[PNWTim]

Looks good Dave. I just sent the last few pieces of that back end to powder coat.

[Papa]

Looks good Dave. I just sent the last few pieces of that back end to powder coat.

It's time to go meet the powder coater!

[460.465USMC]

Today I finished up fitting and drilling the rear hatch/trunk of the car.

Nice progress, Dave. It's amazing how many holes we drill on these builds!

[Papa]

Nice progress, Dave. It's amazing how many holes we drill on these builds!

Thanks, Chris. I'm happy to be sort of done with that task now. There are still more to do after the body goes on, but some of those will wait until after paint. I have a little time to rest my drill.

[Papa]

Let's talk about a little chemistry today that can be a relevant concern with our builds. Specifically, I want to discuss galvanic corrosion.


Galvanic corrosion is an electrochemical process where two dissimilar metals in contact with an electrolyte (like saltwater or moisture) form a galvanic cell, similar to a battery. This causes the more reactive metal to corrode preferentially as the anode, while the more noble metal is protected as the cathode. The three conditions required are: two dissimilar metals, an electrical connection between them, and an electrolyte

The following chart helps us understand which metals are more likely to produce galvanic corrosion.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221013&d=1762184263

To interpret the chart, select one of the metals on the left axis and follow that row until it intersects with the column for the second metal. If the cell at the intersection is blue, there is risk of galvanic corrosion.

Most of us don't think twice about pulling a stainless-steel rivet or tapping threads in our carbon steel chassis to thread in screws for various things we want to attach to the chassis. We typically use stainless-steel screws because we are trying to prevent rust (corrosion) on the hardware. Unfortunately, by doing so we have introduced two of the three conditions that lead to galvanic corrosion; putting dissimilar metals in contact with each other and creating the electrical connection (simply making a conductive connection between the two metals). All that remains to start the galvanic corrosion process is an electrolyte (moisture).

So, we have options when deciding how to mitigate galvanic corrosion. First, we can choose to use compatible (similar) metals. This isn't always possible, so the second way to mitigate the issue is to prevent the metals from being exposed to an electrolyte. This means keeping moisture away from the metal. We all say we never plan to drive these cars in the rain, but it is inevitable that we can someday find ourselves away from the garage in the rain. Also, keep in mind that it doesn't take a ton of water, like rain, but even high humidity can trigger the reaction. Lastly, we can break the electrical conductivity of the metals in some way. For threaded connections, a bit of thread locker may be all that is needed, but there are better products designed specifically for this that I recently came across.

A product called Tef-Gel is one that is frequently called out in the marine industry where stainless-steel is widely used along with aluminum and other metals. Tef-Gel works by coating the fastener with a non-conductive material that also shields the material/part from moisture. It gets applied when the parts are assembled and that's it. Tef-Gel also acts as an anti-seize to prevent threads from galling or becoming stuck to each other.

I plan to use Tef-Gel for any stainless fasteners, screws and rivets, that I attach directly to the chassis.

[AaronR]

Thank you for sharing that bit of information. I've been researching and planning my build for a while now, and galvanic corrosion was nowhere on my radar. I'll add that to my build notes!

[JimStone]

Professor Papa, thanks for the lesson! I admit to mostly turning a blind eye to this problem. Wishful thinking

[Skuzzy]

While I have known about galvanic corrosion, I was not aware of this product you called out.

Quite frankly, I just *assumed* everyone knew about galvanic corrosion. Just putting my engine together with stainless steel fasteners, from ARP, I have probably kept Permatex alive and well with all the anti-seize compound I have gone through.

I'll look into this Tef-Gel. Thanks for the heads up!

[JTG]

To add on to that Galvanic Corrosion chart. There is a diagonal line through the middle where it's like metal w/ like metal.

Anything above or below that line is at risk for corrosion, because you can have a steel and aluminum combo both above and below the diagonal line. Above the line in the blue area indicates the metal that will corrode worse in that scenario.

Also the farther away you get from that diagonal line the worse the issue becomes. So steel and aluminum have a mild reaction compared to titanium and aluminum. Not that any of it is good when you're trying to remove a seized fastener.

I've also never heard of Tef-Gel, but I will be giving that one a try!
Thanks,
Jon

[Lugnut Mark]

Invaluable info Papa Dave thank you … you wouldn’t happen to have a link as to where to buy the Tef-Gel ? I’ll purchase today just sayin ….

Neverming found it on Amazon on the way Thanks again!

[Papa]

To add on to that Galvanic Corrosion chart. There is a diagonal line through the middle where it's like metal w/ like metal.

Anything above or below that line is at risk for corrosion, because you can have a steel and aluminum combo both above and below the diagonal line. Above the line in the blue area indicates the metal that will corrode worse in that scenario.

Also the farther away you get from that diagonal line the worse the issue becomes. So steel and aluminum have a mild reaction compared to titanium and aluminum. Not that any of it is good when you're trying to remove a seized fastener.

I've also never heard of Tef-Gel, but I will be giving that one a try!
Thanks,
Jon

Jon,

Thank you for the added information on interpreting the chart I posted.

Dave

[Papa]

Invaluable info Papa Dave thank you … you wouldn’t happen to have a link as to where to buy the Tef-Gel ? I’ll purchase today just sayin ….

Neverming found it on Amazon on the way Thanks again!

Mark,

I found it from several sources. I clicked the easy button for me and ordered it from Amazon.

Dave

[Nigel Allen]

Hi Dave,

that is a cool and interesting chart. Any chance you can upload as a PDF. I would like to print a copy to put with other quick reference info I keep in the work shop.

Here is a example of a metric / imperial conversion chart I put up a few years ago on this forum.
221028

Cheers,

Nige

[Papa]

Hi Dave,

that is a cool and interesting chart. Any chance you can upload as a PDF. I would like to print a copy to put with other quick reference info I keep in the work shop.

Here is a example of a metric / imperial conversion chart I put up a few years ago on this forum.
221028

Cheers,

Nige

Here you go! If the attachment isn't what you need, this chart is all over the Internet in many versions.

Dave

[Nigel Allen]

Perfect.

Cheers,

Nige

[edwardb]

Corrosion control and treating for potential galvanic corrosion was definitely a thing for my airplane build. For obvious reasons. The kit instructions called it out for any dissimilar metals. Most typically was the combination of SS and aluminum. I used https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/eckCorrosion.php. Maybe not quite as critical on a car build but certainly a good build practice to consider. Easy enough to do.

[Papa]

I worked on the two front splash panels today. Not a difficult task but took some time since I also powder coated the brake line fittings where the braided lines transition to the hard lines. After initially fitting the panels, I followed the example of others and made some openings along the front edge of the panels to route the brake lines through.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221037&d=1762290789

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221038&d=1762290789

These openings will allow me to route the lines similar to how Paul did, but with some minor adjustments for routing along the tubing where the battery mount is, and to install and remove the panels after the brake lines are installed without opening the lines and having to re-bleed the brakes.

[Papa]

I spoke with the powder coater and they can certainly do the work. To get an estimate for the panels that are ready, I'll need to provide measurements (surface area in square inches). Does anyone that has had their panels done happen to have any information on area that they can share? If not, I'll create a spreadsheet to document what each panel I pull measures out in surface area.

Dave

[Papa]

It's been a few days since I've posted anything, so I thought I'd update the thread on what I've been up to. I've started pulling panels off for powder coating. I'm building a spreadsheet with the part name, quantity, and surface area of each panel to provide to the powder coater for an estimate. I've ordered and received a set of color swatches from Prismatic Powders to see if I want to go forward with using two colors on my panels. I'm now leaning toward just a single color, but haven't decided on what that will be yet.

I'm waiting on a test panel that I should receive tomorrow for the console. Once I get that fitted and trimmed (if necessary) I'll pull the remaining cockpit panels off and start working on brake and fuel lines.

I've also been considering how I want to finish the dash. One thing I've been looking at is wrapping the instrument cluster panel with a carbon fiber material. While looking at options, I came across some 3k twill mate finish carbon fiber panels in different thicknesses. I'm considering using one of these for the instrument panel instead of wrapping the aluminum. I'm still undecided on what to do with the rest of the dash. I like the idea of leather, but may just do a powder coat on the aluminum and leave it at that.

A bonus I discovered while looking through the A/C parts to get measurements of the control panel is that the panel I received is much better looking than the panels I've seen in earlier builds that folks have tried to dress up in different ways.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221356&d=1762803802

[bishes]

Wow, I like that way more than the included FFR branded plate. Is there a Vintage Air part number on that?

[Papa]

Wow, I like that way more than the included FFR branded plate. Is there a Vintage Air part number on that?

It's actually a Siroco part:

https://www.siroco-hvac.com/en/accessories/controls/

[JTG]

It's actually a Siroco part:

https://www.siroco-hvac.com/en/accessories/controls/

I was pleasantly surprised with that part when going through inventory. The knobs have a nice solid feel to them.

Going through their catalog, I also like the look of the air diffuser with the metal bezel better than the plastic parts shipped with the kit. It looks like sourcing them may be difficult however.

https://www.siroco-hvac.com/en/product/sensyo-ii-84-diffuser/

[Papa]

I was pleasantly surprised with that part when going through inventory. The knobs have a nice solid feel to them.

Going through their catalog, I also like the look of the air diffuser with the metal bezel better than the plastic parts shipped with the kit. It looks like sourcing them may be difficult however.

https://www.siroco-hvac.com/en/product/sensyo-ii-84-diffuser/

I've been looking at these:

Check out this page from Summit Racing https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bsp-38110

[JTG]

I've been looking at these:

Check out this page from Summit Racing https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bsp-38110

That seems like a nice balance of style and price. Some of the vents I've found were gorgeous but over $800 for a set of four vents is not in our budget.
Like the products from Restomod Air... I need to stop looking at their website before spending my money on something silly.

[JimStone]

That seems like a nice balance of style and price. Some of the vents I've found were gorgeous but over $800 for a set of four vents is not in our budget.
Like the products from Restomod Air... I need to stop looking at their website before spending my money on something silly.

I've been waiting on Restomod Air to have a Sale/Promo for a year. Nothing. Can't believe they can keep a business going with those prices. Beautiful stuff though

[Papa]

I've been sidelined the past few days with a cold, so the only real progress I can post is the additional damage to my checking account. It seems being relegated to my study sitting in front of my computer results in more spending.

I ordered the Specialty Power Windows WWK-2 (https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Specialty-Power-Windows-WWK-2-Standard-Universal-Wiper-Drive-Kit,5126.html) kit used by many others and planned from the start for my build. I saw that they offer a more expensive "Deluxe (https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Specialty-Power-Windows-WWKXLWD-2I-Deluxe-Universal-Dual-Wiper-Kit,2995.html)" kit that includes flexible tubing instead of the rigid tubing for the cable. I already have some nickel-copper tubing left over from my Cobra wiper install, so I just went with the standard kit.

I also ordered a Moroso 63761 Coolant Expansion Tank (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DPNBH52K?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title) for the 2024+ Mustang that I think might work better than the one that has been frequently used on builds here. I grabbed mine on Amazon for $273, about $45 less than any other place I found it. It looks like I may have gotten the last one at that price! I'll have until the end of the year to return it if it looks like it won't work, so I figured I'd give it a try.

[edwardb]

I've been sidelined the past few days with a cold, so the only real progress I can post is the additional damage to my checking account. It seems being relegated to my study sitting in front of my computer results in more spending.

I ordered the Specialty Power Windows WWK-2 (https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Specialty-Power-Windows-WWK-2-Standard-Universal-Wiper-Drive-Kit,5126.html) kit used by many others and planned from the start for my build. I saw that they offer a more expensive "Deluxe (https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Specialty-Power-Windows-WWKXLWD-2I-Deluxe-Universal-Dual-Wiper-Kit,2995.html)" kit that includes flexible tubing instead of the rigid tubing for the cable. I already have some nickel-copper tubing left over from my Cobra wiper install, so I just went with the standard kit.

I also ordered a Moroso 63761 Coolant Expansion Tank (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DPNBH52K?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title) for the 2024+ Mustang that I think might work better than the one that has been frequently used on builds here. I grabbed mine on Amazon for $273, about $45 less than any other place I found it. It looks like I may have gotten the last one at that price! I'll have until the end of the year to return it if it looks like it won't work, so I figured I'd give it a try.

Hope you get better.

1. I don't think that's the difference between the WWK-2 and WWW-2L. I've installed their kits on two different builds. They've always been flexible spring-like drive cables inside rigid tubing that you bend between the components. Looks like the difference is actually a 2-speed switch vs. one that adds a delay. https://www.specialtypowerwindows.com/power-windshield-wiper-kits. The switch looks like the Cole Hersee 75600-04 (or something similar) I used in my Coupe which has the delay/intermittent function.

2. I'll be interested in how you plumb that newer version Moroso tank. I'm really squeezed for space on my Mk5 build and looks like that one is a little more compact.

[Papa]

Brent just posted an announcement for a new dash extension (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?52623-Snakebite-Motorworks-New-Item) part he's made available as of today. I was his Guinea Pig for this part since I was trying to develop my own version. After running it by Brent, he told me he was already working on something nearly identical. Now that the prototype is done and the part is in production, I thought I'd share some additional details.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221525&d=1763149524

The part is very easy to install to the upper trans tunnel cover provided by Factory Five. You simply attach two brackets to that panel and then mount Brent's new panel using machine screws that go in through the sides.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221526&d=1763149720

The panel can be adjusted by trimming to fit or by adjusting the placement to align with the dash. If more adjustment is needed, the holes on the panel can be enlarged and you can use a larger head screw. The panel is designed to be removable to provide access behind it. I also have Brent's front and lower transmission tunnel panels that close in the area under the FFR upper trans cover. Brent's new extension will allow me to modify the FFR panel to provide access to that additional closed space. The panel doesn't attach to the dash at all, but could with a simple mounting tab.

[Papa]

Feeling better after dealing with a cold the past few days, I completed my list of parts for powder coating for the guy I plan to take the stuff to. With that, I have a spreadsheet now of all the panels and their surface area in square inches.

221631

I'll continue to add parts down the road, but this first batch will be just the panels.

[Lugnut Mark]

Thanks for the pc info …. Glad to hear your feeling better btw already purchased Brent’s dash extension kit he’s just waiting on my polished bezel then he’s going to send me a few more parts

[Papa]

No problem, Mark. The site won't let me upload the spreadsheet, so I just put a pdf file up. If you want the spreadsheet, just PM me an e-mail address.

I'm seriously considering the FormaCar power windows, so I'm holding off on coating any of the door parts right now.

[Papa]

With all the panels back off of the chassis, I started plumbing the brakes today. I kept all my tools from the Cobra build, so this one will cost a bit less!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221693&d=1763416356

I ran the front cross-over similarly to what most others have done.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221688&d=1763416341

Next was the front primary line. Getting the bends I wanted to do made it quite the puzzle to fish the line into the footbox. I laid in the fuse panel to ensure I had plenty of clearance.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221689&d=1763416341

I used a 90 degree fitting that came in the kit for the MC connection to keep the line as far away from the electrical as I could. I'll be using a straight fitting for the rear and clutch MC connections and will run those lines under the dash and into the tunnel.

I just used cushion clamps under the inside engine bay rail to secure the line.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221692&d=1763416341

Finally, a quick check that I could still attach the front foot box and splash panels. Everything fits well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221691&d=1763416341

Next up will be the rear lines. I need to study a few build threads to see how others have done theirs first.

[Papa]

I went ahead and pulled the trigger on my Dakota Digital gauges! I bought the gauge set, the GPS module, the dimmer for the gauges, and an external GPS antenna. I decided to skip the TPMS as it isn't 100% compatible with the gauges and would require Dakota Digital to make some modifications to get partial compatibility.

I also ordered four Billet Specialties A/C vents. I'm leaning toward doing the dash in real Charcoal Black Alcantara over 1/8" landau pad and then using a carbon fiber panel to mount the gauges in.

[PNWTim]

Sounds good Dave. I just received my Anthracite black Alcantara for my dash. I think the sheen of it will look nice and it's pretty easy to work with so we'll see. I am going to try my hand at upholstery on this build, possibly including seats. Good on you to go big with the vents. They should really pop.

[Papa]

Sounds good Dave. I just received my Anthracite black Alcantara for my dash. I think the sheen of it will look nice and it's pretty easy to work with so we'll see. I am going to try my hand at upholstery on this build, possibly including seats. Good on you to go big with the vents. They should really pop.

Are you planning to do any pad under the Alcantara on the dash? What adhesive do you plan to use?

My better half is going to bring her sewing skills in and do some contrasting stitching in red for me.

[PNWTim]

Are you planning to do any pad under the Alcantara on the dash? What adhesive do you plan to use?

My better half is going to bring her sewing skills in and do some contrasting stitching in red for me.

I ordered the Alcantara with foam pre-applied. It's the equivalent of 1/8" Landau (2 mm) which is what I was originally going to use. Specifically for hard panels and headliners:

https://www.upholsterysupplyusa.com/products/alcantara-soft-foam-backed

I am not clear on whether the foam is applied in Italy or by the guys in California but the ease of use appealed to me. I am going to spray Weldwood Landau adhesive out of cheap HF gun.

https://www.amazon.com/Dap-Weldwood-Contact-Adhesive-Solvent/dp/B004IH3HAQ/ref=sr_1_1_pp?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.rXjEXV6-6O0w1He7Gddr8SoivshLFQu7aiyrEPto9ftMo6qieQKc62S9-A82Bht30iq7x64MIlldkVOT_HWbqablrOs6ue1BtnNcywaLduE .6_lvuOlnxRUxVh-u2XRlg9mNEum4pzIPD5iqkZCIPGQ&dib_tag=se&hvadid=679482997838&hvdev=c&hvexpln=0&hvlocphy=9032884&hvnetw=g&hvocijid=14007017368946713728--&hvqmt=e&hvrand=14007017368946713728&hvtargid=kwd-1736669899095&hydadcr=7664_13589712&keywords=landau+top+and+trim+glue&mcid=35fba2d769443143af3ff113417ad4f3&qid=1764083990&sr=8-1

https://www.harborfreight.com/32-oz-siphon-feed-spray-gun-18-mm-nozzle-56981.html

I ordered a gallon so I can do my dash and door panels and anything else I can think of. I've been watching a lot of videos on the subject matter and although you can use the aerosol cans most of the YouTube upholsterers use the Weldwood (or something similar).

I am by no means an expert but I am going to give it a go. I have leather, fabric and carpet coming from Relicate for the remainder of the car so I am on a steep learning curve!

[Papa]

I ordered the Alcantara with foam pre-applied. It's the equivalent of 1/8" Landau (2 mm) which is what I was originally going to use. Specifically for hard panels and headliners:

https://www.upholsterysupplyusa.com/products/alcantara-soft-foam-backed

I am not clear on whether the foam is applied in Italy or by the guys in California but the ease of use appealed to me. I am going to spray Weldwood Landau adhesive out of cheap HF gun.

https://www.amazon.com/Dap-Weldwood-Contact-Adhesive-Solvent/dp/B004IH3HAQ/ref=sr_1_1_pp?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.rXjEXV6-6O0w1He7Gddr8SoivshLFQu7aiyrEPto9ftMo6qieQKc62S9-A82Bht30iq7x64MIlldkVOT_HWbqablrOs6ue1BtnNcywaLduE .6_lvuOlnxRUxVh-u2XRlg9mNEum4pzIPD5iqkZCIPGQ&dib_tag=se&hvadid=679482997838&hvdev=c&hvexpln=0&hvlocphy=9032884&hvnetw=g&hvocijid=14007017368946713728--&hvqmt=e&hvrand=14007017368946713728&hvtargid=kwd-1736669899095&hydadcr=7664_13589712&keywords=landau+top+and+trim+glue&mcid=35fba2d769443143af3ff113417ad4f3&qid=1764083990&sr=8-1

https://www.harborfreight.com/32-oz-siphon-feed-spray-gun-18-mm-nozzle-56981.html

I ordered a gallon so I can do my dash and door panels and anything else I can think of. I've been watching a lot of videos on the subject matter and although you can use the aerosol cans most of the YouTube upholsterers use the Weldwood (or something similar).

I am by no means an expert but I am going to give it a go. I have leather, fabric and carpet coming from Relicate for the remainder of the car so I am on a steep learning curve!

Thanks, Tim. The Alcantara I ordered doesn't have a backing on it, so I thought the foam would be a good add. I found the foam relatively inexpensively and figured I'd be able to apply it to the dash and hope to feather it out on the top so that the front edge is padded, but as you get closer to the edge where it meets the windshield, it will be virtually gone with just the metal dash surface left where the defrosters mount. I also plan to use the Weldwood glue, but ordered it in their spray cans.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092NJH6XL?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

We'll see how that works. For the stitching, I'm still debating if I want to do actual French seams or just do a double stitch on a single piece of Alcantara. I think I know the answer but will experiment a bit to see how it looks.

I may also do the transmission tunnel cover and shift boot in the same material.

[burchfieldb]

I have found the same preference for the Landau glue and have been using it. The cans do not go far. You can get a gallon and a spray gun in a kit for pretty cheap. You also do not need to clean it out of the gun when done, only wipe the tip off with some acetone.

[Papa]

Well, okay then. I just ordered a gallon and a sprayer.

[PNWTim]

It is very rewarding to spend other people's money on tools and supplies! Just remember, we're here to help :cool:

[8secDuster]

it is very rewarding to spend other people's money on tools and supplies! Just remember, we're here to help :cool:

lol !

[FNLode]

Hi Papa, I also got my D65 mid August this year (delivery to Norway) and I also spent some 1-2 hours looking for the hardcopy manual (since YouTube "Oak hollow Garage, Thomas referred to that one allot), just to learn that I now had to download the manual.. Agree with you, they should have sent it for us tactile persons still like the papers :).