Rear brake caliper mount brackets nuts.

[rponfick]

I just tried to mount the brackets that attach to the brake calipers to Moser rear axle on my Mk5. I am using the stock FFR Mustang supplied brake setup, not Wilwood. Has anyone else decided to junk the metal lock nuts on the 16, 3/4" bolts. I found it almost impossible to tighten only two of the nuts before giving up with skinned up knuckles. You cannot get a ratchet or sockets on the inner axle nuts because of lack of room. only an open-end wrench. I suspect the torque setting for these nuts, being the recommended 50 ftlbs, was exceeded before the slack was taken up in the bolts.
My plan is to head to the hardware store tomorrow and get 16 grade 8 nuts and lock washers and go that route.

I am also awaiting word from FFR if the thin clips/shims are supposed to be installed in the rear calipers similarly to those supplied in the front calipers. The rear clips were not supplied with the kit and the instructions do not show them being used, although other post herein discuss the difficulty in keeping them in place during pad installation. Recommend gluing them in place before brake pad install.

Thanks, Ralph

[rich grsc]

DO NOT use lock washers.

[rponfick]

DO NOT use lock washers.
What would you suggest? Double nuts maybe?

[tnt_motorsports]

I used the supplied hardware with a ratchet wrench. Yes, it is a pain in the butt, but I do not believe in lock washers.

[rponfick]

Any other ideas? Loctite?
Lots of creative minds out there.

[rponfick]

Update. I plowed forward with using the metal lock nuts on the rear caliper bracket bolts. I found it was much easier using a 14mm wrench verses the 9/16". It was still not easy, but possible with the better fitting tools.

Now, the only remaining question is the caliper clips that are sometimes shown as used, and sometime not.

Thanks, Ralph

[CraigS]

I am glad you got it installed but I will throw in a thought for others. In hard to access places I am a huge fan double nuts. It is so nice to run the nut on by hand and only need a wrench for the last 2 turns or so. (Before installing, run the nut on the bolt so you don't run into a damaged thread 1/2 way. And a drop of oil makes for a nice spin of the nut). For fractional sizes ACE or True Value often have 1/2 or 2/3 thickness jam nuts but doubling two standard nuts works also. Long time ago I had a deformed metal lock nut ruin the threads on the bolt when I removed it. I don't remember details but it was a colossal pain as I didn't have a replacement bolt. Since then every deformed metal lock nut I come across immediately goes in the trash.

[rponfick]

Craig, thanks for your comments. I thought I was through with the process, but now I notice in trying to install my calipers that I should have checked the pad centering before putting on the metal lock nuts. Now, I have to take them off again and get the proper shim thickness. I will use regular bolts to mock this up. Or can I put the washer shim between the caliper and the mount bracket rather than between the brackets?
I feel like an idiot. The instructions, or any commentors, would not point out checking this ahead of time. Not sure how many times you can install and remove these bolts. You commented on throwing them in the trash.

Ralph

[CraigS]

Just look at the bolt threads after you remove the nut. If they are damaged beyond your comfort level, throw nuts and bolts out. There are surely a bunch of companies making these nuts w/ varying tolerances on size as well as steel alloys. You may be lucky and yours didn't do much damage. Best wishes.

[Grubester]

Part of the challenge (and the reward when you solve the problem) with building these cars is you that have to discover the 'design intent' at each phase of the assembly. Some fabrication of special shims or even a special tool here and there is needed to affect the assembly.
For me, challenging areas where understanding how the polyurethane bushings perform in the control arms and getting the grease lubrication to work correctly, figuring out how to put in slightly modified clips in the calipers so those were performing correctly, and also centering the calipers correctly over the discs. Also, shimming the rear caliper mounting bracket for my IRS so that the plane of the caliper piston puck was parallel with the surface of the disc. Special shims there.

[J R Jones]

Grubster, Rponfick, Yes, final inspection, tuning and approval by the owner builder.
I prefer the nylock nuts over deform thread types but brake temperature could defeat the nylon ring. In complex assemblies I use standard nuts anticipating disassembly for various reasons, then I install lock nuts for final assembly. Thread length (outside and inside) can not be ignored and one and one half diameters of (blind) thread engagement (or more) is SOP.
Yes sometimes metric sockets can fit better but impact sockets are always thicker wall, and cheap sockets are thick wall too. Professional grade sockets and wrenches always fit better and last longer. I never use twelve point sockets, even though I used to (decades ago), and still have them.
jim