Front brake rotor too tight?

[rponfick]

I am starting my Mk5 build and am installing the front suspension components. I have the stock FFR rotors, calipers and Wagner pads (non-Wilwood). After getting all the clips in the calipers, pads and mounted to the rotors, the effort required to rotate the rotors seems more than I am used to. I realize the pads and rotors are rough and unworn, but I am just curious as to how much effort should be needed to rotate them. And, the rotational force is hard to measure, so I may be asking a question that is impossible to answer.
Just curious.
Thanks, Ralph

[edwardb]

It's normal for disk brake pads to drag the rotor slightly. They should turn relatively freely (subjective I know) but they typically won't spin when you let them go unless there's a wheel/tire mounted. And even then it's somewhat limited.

[cob427sc]

You should be able to rotate the disc by hand and especially if a wheel is installed. Sometimes until the brakes have been applied several times by stepping on the pedal, the pads/rotors need to find their "home" position. Unless it is extremely hard to turn I would wait until you have the brakes completely installed and plumbed, then following brake bleeding see how they spin.

[Fixit]

A few years ago I had a fellow builder ask the same question. We were almost running parallel courses on our builds, and I shot this short video for him.
This is my MkIV using the Mustang/Ford brakes, but it should be about the same regardless of mfg. The tips mentioned above are all valid... sometimes stuff needs to get into its "happy place".

Take a look here (https://youtu.be/Dgmg7WFKCwY?si=d-rtdTbyrX4LCccM)

[rich grsc]

If you can turn the rotor by hand, it's ok. Remember this is all new parts, the rotor themselves are still rough from machining, and the pads have not been bedded.

[StangRacer]

I am starting my Mk5 build and am installing the front suspension components. I have the stock FFR rotors, calipers and Wagner pads (non-Wilwood). After getting all the clips in the calipers, pads and mounted to the rotors, the effort required to rotate the rotors seems more than I am used to. I realize the pads and rotors are rough and unworn, but I am just curious as to how much effort should be needed to rotate them. And, the rotational force is hard to measure, so I may be asking a question that is impossible to answer.
Just curious.
Thanks, Ralph

Did you compress the pistons in the caliper before installing?

I just installed my front calipers and rotors today and had to compress the pistons to get the caliper to slide over the rotor. First time I have ever had to do that with brand new calipers...

Your question reminds me of a funny story from when I was drag racing... we were at race in Memphis and a few of us were over in the pit area of the fella that was the TQ. His car was sitting on four jackstands and I was leaning against the quarter panel BSing with everyone. As I was standing there I reached down and put my hand on the outer wall of the rear slick and noticed it moved back and forth with practically no effort. So, with moderate effort I pushed down to rotate the slick and counted seven revolutions before it stopped. I later ask him about the rear, which was a Ford 9", and was told it was a Dewco third member with REM polished gears, and ceramic bearings. It was at that exact moment I realized I simply did not have the financial ability to be a consistent qualifier on the top half of the ladder.

[Pizzman76]

I am starting my Mk5 build and am installing the front suspension components. I have the stock FFR rotors, calipers and Wagner pads (non-Wilwood). After getting all the clips in the calipers, pads and mounted to the rotors, the effort required to rotate the rotors seems more than I am used to. I realize the pads and rotors are rough and unworn, but I am just curious as to how much effort should be needed to rotate them. And, the rotational force is hard to measure, so I may be asking a question that is impossible to answer.
Just curious.
Thanks, Ralph

I had the exact same issue on my front calipers, and though it seemed like the piston was fully compressed, it was not on both calipers. I ended up using a clamp to get the additional clearance needed.