Einstein's Mark V Roadster Build

[Aleinsteingenius]

I thought I should start a build thread so I can repay this wonderful forum for all that I have learned from the super talented people here. I am sure my contributions will be in showing others what NOT to do. This will probably be a long introduction followed by hopefully short “Screw Up of the Week” reports.

First, I have been asked about the screen name. My name is Bill. My wife thinks I am a genius. She calls me Einstein all the time. Usually prefaced by some words of encouragement like “Way to go…”. She really loves me.

Background? Yeah….I have a long list of diverse projects where I have found new and imaginative ways of screwing up. I grew up on a potato farm with all the fun machinery fixing involved in that. When I was 15 I built a Meyer’s Manx dune buggy and drove it to school as soon as I was old enough. Car projects through the years include two Model A fords, 1946 Jeep CJ3, 1963 Jeep CJ3B, 1985 Jeep CJ7 (with a corvette engine), 1967 fastback Mustang GT, 1967 Camaro, Jaguar V12 xjs. Motorcycles, bunch of Harleys and one custom hard tail chopper with 150 hp. My dad, brother and I also restored and flew antique and experimental airplanes. Those projects included 1928 Arrow Sport biplane, 1931 Brunner Winkle Bird biplane, 1928 Travel Air biplane, 1918 Fokker D7 biplane, 1946 Aeronca Champ, 1940 Rearwin Cloudster and a Kevlar/carbon fiber seaplane we built from a kit. I also got into boats and restored a 1960 33’ Rhodes sailboat, 1941 53’swordfishing yacht, and a 1987 53’ trawler.

I can no longer fly due to an unfortunate collision between myself and the planet Earth. There was a ladder involved. Three months in a body cast was less than fun. That was when that movie Spartans 300 came out. I was trying to get somebody to spray paint some abs on that cast. (note: you can’t mess with gravity. It’s like a law or something). They had to put a pacemaker/defibrillator in which I no longer need but they can’t take it out. I figure if they ever execute me I will just keep coming back, so at least I have that going for me.

Anyway, back to the Grand Scheme of Things. I finally retired last year. We spent a year fixing up the aforementioned 53 foot trawler. It had 4 diesel engines, 4 toilets , 5 showers, 6 air conditioners. I had great fun fixing all the systems. The plan was my wife and I would take it south from NY every fall to FL or the Bahamas and come back north each spring. We got down to Florida where an idiot dock hand put 400 gallons of gasoline in our diesel tanks. We ran for 8 hours before the engines stopped. At the same time our grown daughter back in NY got very sick. We had an offer to buy the boat for what we had in it so we ended up back home to think about what’s next.

My wife was very worried that without businesses to run or a big yacht to maintain and captain I would go crazy. She said “The last time you had nothing to do you took my Jaguar all apart”. She knew I had always loved Cobras and had followed Factory Five since the 90s. When we saw the announcement of the Mark V and how larger people could fit in it she said “So why don’t you build one?” Oh yeah, I guess I should mention I am 6’5 280 lbs former tight end.

We took the ferry from the east end of Long Island over to CT and drove up to FFR. We met Dave Smith and all the wonderful people there. I sat in the Mark V and found I fit! My wife was ready to buy the complete kit right then.

I came home to think about it. My dad had passed away and my brother had moved upstate. I inherited a 70’x 80’ airplane hangar still full of old airplanes, engines, etc. Luckily it also has almost every tool in the world as well. I would have to get rid of all the planes and stuff, build a heated shop inside the hangar, install a lift etc.

Ok now finally we are getting to the car build stuff. I commend any of you who are still with me here. I got the hangar mostly cleaned out. (I still have the experimental seaplane with an experimental engine ….want to buy it? Lol). I have the 30’ x40’ new shop almost framed and rocked , spray foam insulation is scheduled.

I ordered a complete Mark V kit. It should arrive early May. I included all the bells and whistles including Heat and AC In case I want to add a hard or soft top. Although I suspect with a top on when I get out of the car it would look like it is giving birth.

I ordered a stacked Godzilla engine with ridiculous horsepower from FL.

My wife said “Is that safe?” This is the woman who let me do aerobatics in antique airplanes. I said “There is nothing safer than a Cobra with 675 hp”. This engine combined with the new Mark V may give me some engineering challenges but that is kinda what this is all about.

Today I went to meet the great Mike Forte and pick up my transmission, bell housing, clutch etc. I am not even as smart as I look but I know when you meet somebody like Mike you listen to everything they say.

Even though I have painted boats and airplanes before I hope when the time comes I use my brain and get somebody like Jeff Kleiner to do it.

I don’t claim to have any great skills despite all the projects. Wait until you see all the stuff I am about to screw up. Before I can build the car I have to finish building my shop in the hangar. The plan is to work slow and make it last. My wife said “Don’t build it too fast or you will have to build another one”. Stay tuned.

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[JimStone]

Wow, that's a lot of cool projects you've done in the past.

The most remarkable part of your story is that you're still here to tell it after restoring and flying "antique experimental aircraft"! And you still fit in the MkV with those oversized cajones?

Best of luck and have fun!

[Aleinsteingenius]

Jim, Thanks for the good wishes. Your build thread is impressive. You did awesome work building your shop. I am exhausted from building my new shop. The kit is about to arrive and then the work STARTS. The funny thing about all the flying, motorcycles, etc. I never got hurt until I fell off that ladder.

[danmas]

It sounds like you are a guy I would like building with. I hope you have a ton of fun with your build.

[Aleinsteingenius]

Thanks Danmas. From reading your posts you could be a big help to me. I can't wait to get started.

[Aleinsteingenius]

I just got the call from Stewart Transport that our kit will be delivered on May 10th! Whoo Hoo! We need to hurry up and finish the shop! Stay tuned.

[danmas]

I got mine on May 10 as well! So much fun. Take lots of pictures….

[Aleinsteingenius]

Ok, time for an update on progress...or the lack thereof. Our Mark V kit is supposed to come on Saturday. The new shop is still being taped and spackled. Then we must paint. The lift has not been delivered yet and the new electric service. lights, fans, HVAC, plumbing are not in yet. But other than that...we are ready lol. I was able to build a body buck, re-purpose a rolling table as a chassis cart, and set up a sort of "Parts Room" for all the boxes coming. Stay tuned. 213499213500

[Aleinsteingenius]

Today Stewart Transport came and delivered a Complete Mark V Kit to my Not Complete Shop. It all went well and the driver was awesome. I am glad I had my little skid steer fork lift. The plan is to finish the shop then inventory everything before starting the build. I thought it would take longer to get the kit and I thought it would take less time to build the new shop. It is nice to know we have almost everything in house now except the back ordered parts, the engine, and the wiring harness.

Our Factory Five Mark V kit contains the following:
Complete kit set up for Godzilla engine
Hydraulic clutch kit
Godzilla headers and side exhaust
IRS complete kit
IRS shock kit
IRS Center and spindles. 3.55
31 spline driveshaft
Pwr steering
Vintage GPS 7 gauge set
Black leather seats
Powder coated frame
Left and Right Chrome roll bars
12.88 front Willwood brakes and IRS Willwood rear brakes both red
18" Hallibrand wheel tire package
Wood steering wheel
Body cut outs
Cut aluminum dash with vinyl
5 pt safety harnesses
2 GT 400 polished side mirrors
Plastic hood scoop
Sun visor, wipers,
AC parts
Oil cooler kit
Red indoor car cover
Roll bar grommets
Front and rear sway bars
Floor mats
Brake reservoir parts
Vintage oil temp gauge
Remote brake booster parts
Godzilla install kit
Wind wing kit
Trunk gas strut kit
Seat track kit
Side louvers assembled
Batt cut off switch
Brake duct wire mesh

I also got a set of 17" wheels which will have tires more for cold/wet weather driving

From Forte Parts Connection:
TRX 2.87/.81 5 speed transmission
Godzilla bolt kit and pilot
Ram 23 lb flywheel
Centerforce T/O B
Hydraulic slave kit and master

I will probably use Tilton MCs for all (thanks Mike Bray)
and many other parts may be substituted for FFR parts.
Stay tuned.

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[JimStone]

Congratulations! Very exciting

Those car covers are slick with the FFR logo

[Aleinsteingenius]

The car cover was a nice surprise. They have a hole in the middle for the crane to lift off the truck. It should say on the packaging "Some assembly required" lol.

[Aleinsteingenius]

Quick update. We got the chassis and body in the "parts room" organized where it will have to wait a couple of weeks for us to finish the shop. Then we will inventory everything. Stay tuned.213820

[Aleinsteingenius]

Okay, this was really sketchy. They delivered the new Atlas four-post lift today. I knew it weighed almost 3000 lbs and was about 15 ft long, all in one package. I asked the shipping company how we were going to get it off the truck. They said, "No problem; the truck has a lift gate." We managed to do it using the lift gate and my little skid steer forklift that can lift 1100 lbs with giant me on the back as a counterweight. Without that I don't know how you are supposed to do it. Be prepared if you order one of these things. Now that needs to be assembled before we even start assembling the cobra.

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[Justin]

It sounds like you have some experience in the experimental. FUN! Thanks for the read and I'm hoping to follow along!

[Aleinsteingenius]

Ok it is time for me to make a "Lack of Progress" report. Our Mark V kit was delivered a month ago. I have not done the inventory yet because the shop is still a construction site. Here is a tip for anybody who plans to fix up a shop and build one of these kits. The shop rebuild will take way longer than you thought and FFR will ship you your kit right when they said so plan better than I did. One of the reasons for the delay on the shop is my next door neighbor decided he badly needed the 5 acre parcel next to the hangar/shop. He offered 2 1/2 times what it appraised for so we sold it to him. Then I realized the water and electric to the hangar went through that parcel. That meant new water and electric service trenched to the hangar and permits...in NY. So I outsmarted myself on that deal leading my wife to say "Way to go Einstein" lol.

The new shop walls are built, insulated, painted. I installed the Mr Cool HVAC myself in a day. Building 10' x 10' sliding doors and installing them by myself was challenging.
I set up to inventory all the parts because I am coming up on the 45 days FFR allows. One handy thing I found was a cart (I assume it came from the former Grumman facility 5 miles from here where they built the F14s) that has cups to hold hardware. I will put all the FFR hardware in there and can roll it over where I am working. Inventory should be done this week.

Next up it to install the four post lift sitting here. It looks like it has pretty heavy parts. Note to self: Get some friends.

Sorry to bore you all with all this. Soon there will be actual build stuff. Stay tuned.

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[Sarcasticshrub]

One handy thing I found was a cart (I assume it came from the former Grumman facility 5 miles from here where they built the F14s) that has cups to hold hardware. I will put all the FFR hardware in there and can roll it over where I am working.

That WILL be handy! I cobbled something similar together a few years back too tackle that coffee-can filled line of nuts-n-bolts that seems to grow after every project. So nice to be able to see at a glance what ya got.

Looking forward to your build progress.

[rickster991]

Following along. You should write a book!

[Aleinsteingenius]

Lol the most boring book in the world. "An un-authorized autobiography called "Everything that Happened Up to Now"

[Stangrob]

Wow, this is a great build thread and everything is still in boxes! I can only imagine how informative this will be once the construction starts :D

How close are you to the old Grumman Iron Works? I have a number of friends that live in that area of the island.

BTW is that a Fleet bipe in your intro post?

Rob

[Aleinsteingenius]

We are very close to the Grumman Calverton Plant. My wife's dad worked there on F14s and EA6Bs for 30 years. The theme of this build thread will be to showcase all the stuff I screw up. That is I think the most useful info for others.

The red and cream biplane in my first post is a 1931 Brunner Winkle Bird. It was bigger than a Fleet but also used the Kinnner engine. They were built in Brooklyn.

I am currently about halfway through the inventory. Some of the parts they name on the packing list I don't know what that looks like so how do I know if I have one? A fun puzzle but getting there. Stay tuned.

[Aleinsteingenius]

We are very close to the Grumman Calverton Plant. My wife's dad worked there on F14s and EA6Bs for 30 years. The theme of this build thread will be to showcase all the stuff I screw up. That is I think the most useful info for others.

The red and cream biplane in my first post is a 1931 Brunner Winkle Bird. It was bigger than a Fleet but also used the Kinnner engine. They were build in Brooklyn.

I am currently about halfway through the inventory. Some of the parts they name on the packing list I don't know what that looks like so how do I know if I have one? A fun puzzle but getting there. Stay tuned.

[PMD24]

I found that the manual photos were helpful at times in identifying parts on the inventory list.

Pat

[Aleinsteingenius]

That is a good tip about the pictures. Thank you for that.

[Aleinsteingenius]

Great...I didn't even start building yet and I already have a screw up to report. While waiting for the kit to be delivered I thought I would be pro-active and ordered a wire harness from Ron Francis. It arrived and I put it on the shelf. Now going through the kit inventory I found the exact same wiring harness. I hope they will take the un-opened one I ordered from RF back. My wife said "You obviously didn't understand what a complete kit meant. Way to go Einstein" lol

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[PNWTim]

We are very close to the Grumman Calverton Plant. My wife's dad worked there on F14s and EA6Bs for 30 years. The theme of this build thread will be to showcase all the stuff I screw up. That is I think the most useful info for others.

The red and cream biplane in my first post is a 1931 Brunner Winkle Bird. It was bigger than a Fleet but also used the Kinnner engine. They were build in Brooklyn.

I am currently about halfway through the inventory. Some of the parts they name on the packing list I don't know what that looks like so how do I know if I have one? A fun puzzle but getting there. Stay tuned.

One thing I have done when I am faced with the "what's a three handled gredunza look like" situation is to do a search of the digital copy of the manual. It has a word for word search function and will find any associated references. It is also the most up to date reference document besides your inventory sheets.

[chmhasy]

Even though I have painted boats and airplanes before I hope when the time comes I use my brain and get somebody like Jeff Kleiner to do it.



Give Ron a call at https://www.metal-morphous.com/ he just did my car 215220

[Aleinsteingenius]

Thanks for the tips guys. I have managed to complete the inventory and I am not missing much at all. I was thinking of Metal-morphous as they are not too far away. I can actually see New Haven across the Sound from our house. Your car looks great! How long was the lead time?

[chmhasy]

Thanks for the tips guys. I have managed to complete the inventory and I am not missing much at all. I was thinking of Metal-morphous as they are not too far away. I can actually see New Haven across the Sound from our house. Your car looks great! How long was the lead time?

Ron got me in pretty quick and he quoted me around 16 week to do it, but it was actually around 12 weeks for him to do the car. I think if I was to do another car I would first get intouch with the painter just after you receive the car to see when is the best time to get it in during the build.

[TBull]

"I guess I should mention I am 6’5 280 lbs former tight end." Welcome to the big boy club. I'm 6'2" 290lbs and a stocky a former wrestler and tight head prop for Rugby. With fore thought, many of the size issues can be overcome. Even just adding an inch or two in certain areas can mean a great deal to your comfort. I have large thighs, so I made a custom dash that gave me more room, plus adding an aluminum block under the steering column's yoke can help you get it to a comfortable position. The Kirkey classic Lowback help lower you in the cockpit and also help with leg length. as for the engine, I think you're in the right neighborhood :) Just an FYI, if you are planning on IRS, you should check with FFR on the HP limit of their existing half shafts. When I asked it was around 400 HP, so since my target was well above that I went to the driveshaft shop and order upgraded FFR half shafts. Again I look forward following you journey and what changes you make.

[Ray from Long Island]

Ron at Metal-Morphous did my Mark 4 (Indigo Blue, AKA Lexus blue) about a year ago and it came out beautiful.

Ron and Pedro are a pleasure to work with :)

Ray

[Aleinsteingenius]

Thanks for the tip Tbull. I will look into stronger halfshafts. I am sure all the new super powered Mustangs must have upgrades ones maybe they could be cut down,. Ray thanks for the info on Metal-Morphous I will give them a call even though I have only just today finished inventory on the kit.

As to "The Big Boy Club" once done playing football being a big guy is a pain. My wife keeps me around to get stuff off the top shelf. open jars, and kill spiders on the ceiling. Other than that airplane seats, buying clothes,etc is a pain. I was very happy how well I fit in the FFR Mark V prototype. Here is a picture of my giant self in there making vroom noises.....
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[TBull]

I know exactly what you mean. Plus more expensive too. I was my dad's runt. He was 6'6 and 240. Like anything there are pros.and cons. The driveshaft store has the lengths already and they have them good to 1000 hp. I went with the 600 hp version and never regretted it.

[Aleinsteingenius]

Great news! Ron Francis agreed to take back the duplicate wiring harness I stupidly ordered. I told my wife "With the money we are getting back we can buy a powder coating rig!" She gave me "The Look". You married guys know The Look. At least she wasnt' standing there with her arms folded tapping her foot. lol.

[Blitzboy54]

Give Ron a call at https://www.metal-morphous.com/ he just did my car 215220

Did my car too


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=167012&d=1652998503

[Aleinsteingenius]

Another report of my progress not building our Mark V. Today I moved the new lift into the shop and unpacked all the pieces. I got my weightlifting in working by myself. I promise eventually I will post stuff about actually building the car.
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[PNWTim]

Those mini skid steers are so handy.

[rickster991]

Ron at Metal-Morphous did my Mark 4 (Indigo Blue, AKA Lexus blue) about a year ago and it came out beautiful.

Ron and Pedro are a pleasure to work with :)

Ray

Sorry to hijack your thread... I was thinking of Indigo Blue for my build. I was afraid of it leaning to purple. Does it look like a Navy blue? Any purple tones? Thanks.

[Aleinsteingenius]

I am definately going to call Metal-Morphous. Our daughter works a Yale right there in New Haven. I have changed my mind on colors 14 times already so TBD.

[Aleinsteingenius]

How do you put up a four post lift when you don't have any friends? Very carefully. At some point I will actually build a car.
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[Aleinsteingenius]

Hi everybody. I apologize for the lack of posting for the last 3 months. I got very sick. I developed a Cerebral Spinal Fluid leak, which made my brain work even worse than it normally does. The doctor, knowing I am a car nut, explained it as "You have low oil pressure. Your check engine light is coming on". They managed to plug the leak. I asked where the leak was. He said, "It doesn't matter. It's like putting Stop Leak in your radiator, it just goes to where the leak is and plugs it". He spoke my language. I got out of the hospital mid July and decided to enjoy what was left of the summer here on Long Island fishing, sailing, etc with the grandkids.

Ok back ot the build. The huge shop project is finally done. I have The Cobra Brain Trust coming over tonight to help me get the body on the buck and the frame on the lift. They are a good bunch of guys who are all smarter than me. One is an expert on 1969 Camaros and has a big collection of them. One did a 1936 Ford pickup with a hot rodded flathead in it. One has a Model A roadster with a blown 289. One has a Shelby GT500. The other two are Mcgiver types who can fix anything.
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This must be a record for the longest build thread with no actual building on the car. I promise the next one will show some progress. Stay tuned.

[Ejzajac]

What type of modified system/dolly are you using to put the frame on the 4 poster lift with enough height clearance to put tires on the car?
Even moving the lift ramps to the "narrow" configuration it will be short of the Cobra frame width. With your mini-steer, you could probably could position/drop the frame on the modified lift from the side!
Stay healthy!

[cv2065]

Looks like a great build and look forward to following along. I was going to go with a Godzilla myself, but FFR did not really have it worked out for an MKIV. One comment on the upgraded half shafts. The stock half shafts are rated up to 600HP, and that is at the wheels. At a 15% loss factor, you'd have to be tipping a little over 700HP at max output.

Also, these cars are light and can rarely use the power that we put into them. As many will say, anything over 400HP is for show and 'bragging rights' at a show. Unless you are drag racing the car, I'm not sure that you would need an additional $2300 investment, but of course, you build it as you think you need it.

I've only seen one other building with the Godzilla but not stacks. Should be awesome!!

[Aleinsteingenius]

The four post lift came with rolling jacks that slide back and forth and can extend out to various widths. I will show pictures of how it works, if it does, when we put it on the lift later today.

I agree about the half shafts. If I am stupid enough to put over 600 hp to the ground I hope the shafts break before I get killed lol.

[Mike.Bray]

Hi everybody. I apologize for the lack of posting for the last 3 months. I got very sick. I developed a Cerebral Spinal Fluid leak, which made my brain work even worse than it normally does. The doctor, knowing I am a car nut, explained it as "You have low oil pressure. Your check engine light is coming on". They managed to plug the leak. I asked where the leak was. He said, "It doesn't matter. It's like putting Stop Leak in your radiator, it just goes to where the leak is and plugs it". He spoke my language. I got out of the hospital mid July and decided to enjoy what was left of the summer here on Long Island fishing, sailing, etc with the grandkids.

Glad you're okay!!

[Aleinsteingenius]

Thanks Mike! I will be asking you a lot about Tilton vs Willwood MCs soon.

Ejcajac, Here is picture of the rolling jacks on the lift with one raised and one down.

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[Ejzajac]

TWO rolling jacks! Great, but expensive solution. Thanks.

[Aleinsteingenius]

My Garage Supply had a deal on Atlas four post lifts that included two rolling jacks free.

[Aleinsteingenius]

We got the body off and onto the body buck. Next we put the frame on the four post lift. So far so good.218620218621

[rickster991]

Glad you’re back at it.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Man! That sounds like an ordeal; glad you're back!

Jeff

[PNWTim]

Glad to hear you are healed up and ready to get back at it. Enjoying those outdoor activities in the summer are what heaters in the shop are for in the winters. Looking forward to your build.

[Aleinsteingenius]

Any of you who have been reading this "build" thread from the beginning may be shocked by this. Today I ACTUALLY installed an ACTUAL part on the ACTUAL car! It was just the steering rack, and it was pretty easy. I didn't find anything to screw up, but there is always tomorrow. Stay tuned.218647

[ticopow]

Congrats on the first piece installed!

[Aleinsteingenius]

I can't remember who in here said this, but I was laughing about it as I worked on aluminum. "Drilling all the holes is boring, but the next step is riveting". Credit to whoever said it. All the airplane work I have done helps with this stage.

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[Ray from Long Island]

Hi Rickster and sorry Mr. Einstein,

I had the same concern, I wanted blue, not a blue with a purplish tint to it. Indigo blue is just that Blue, yes, kind of navy a bit but with the (I believe) "Mica metallic's" in it it is amazing in the Sun, shade and under my LED garage lights.

Ray

[Aleinsteingenius]

I am having a wonderful time locating all the aluminum panels and drilling the holes in both them and the frame. I had a big argument between my cheap Scottish half and my stubborn OCD Welsh half. (I am Scwelsh?). In the end, I decided to powder coat everything. It's only money (gulp). Does anybody have a decent picture of the Upper and Lower Inside Splash Panels? I think I have them right but the instructions are not too clear.

In other news I found out my engine should be done next week. That was the only major thing we are missing. Stay tuned

[edwardb]

Does anybody have a decent picture of the Upper and Lower Inside Splash Panels? I think I have them right but the instructions are not too clear.

If these are the parts you're asking about, decent diagram in the build manual.

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I also showed them in my build thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51545-EdwardB%92s-Mk5-30th-Anniversary-Build-Cockpit-Aluminum-Panels&p=589960&viewfull=1#post589960

Just in case you're asking about the splash guards that go behind the wheels front and back (aka elephant ears) those you want to fit after the body is on.

[Aleinsteingenius]

Credit where credit is due. "All day I drill holes in metal. At first it's boring and then it's riveting." Rickster991

[Aleinsteingenius]

Thanks Paul,

Somehow I missed that picture in the manual. I was concerned about the front of the top piece rubbing on the vertical frame piece. I ended up leaving it about 1/4" away.

[rickster991]

Credit where credit is due. "All day I drill holes in metal. At first it's boring and then it's riveting." Rickster991

Not sure where I got it from.. ��

[Aleinsteingenius]

More drilling and Cleecos. Thanks for the pictures in your build thread Paul. I think I missed the pics because they were on page 500 something in the manual. On to the cockpit aluminum.

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[Aleinsteingenius]

God I hate drilling. I am glad I didn't go to dentistry school. No real issues to report. I am just working my way though all the panels. My wife has offered to de-burr all the holes before I send them off to the powder coater. I don't think she realizes how many holes there are lol.

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[Mike.Bray]

My wife volunteered to help pull the rivets, she ended up probably pulling more than half. With my manual rivet gun. Guys that think they need power rivet guns crack us up.

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[egchewy79]

My wife volunteered to help pull the rivets, she ended up probably pulling more than half. With my manual rivet gun. Guys that think they need power rivet guns crack us up.

219113
All fun and games until you give yourself a hernia trying to hand pull some of the stainless steel 3/8” rivets that Breeze sends with their battery box

[Mike.Bray]

All fun and games until you give yourself a hernia trying to hand pull some of the stainless steel 3/8” rivets that Breeze sends with their battery box

They're actually 3/16" SS rivets, 3/8" would be a hell of a pop rivet. But I digress, we didn't have any issue with them at all with our rivet gun;)

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[Aleinsteingenius]

I will get my wife doing forearm exercises in preparation for manual riveting lol.

[egchewy79]

They're actually 3/16" SS rivets, 3/8" would be a hell of a pop rivet. But I digress, we didn't have any issue with them at all with our rivet gun;)

219114
My mistake. You are correct. Your riveter has a lot more leverage than my HF POS

[Ejzajac]

They're actually 3/16" SS rivets, 3/8" would be a hell of a pop rivet. But I digress, we didn't have any issue with them at all with our rivet gun;)

219114

What is the manufacturer of this rivet gun? It should get the job done .
Ed

[Mike.Bray]

What is the manufacturer of this rivet gun? It should get the job done .
Ed

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/pop-rivet-guns/rivet-tools-2~/extra-leverage-manual-tools-for-blind-rivets-7/

[Aleinsteingenius]

Generally, the aluminum panels fit pretty well. It would be a significant task to create them all from scratch, as we used to do with some of the antique airplanes. Trimming some of them here and there, while probably not essential, can give a better fit.

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[Aleinsteingenius]

I wish I had some great wisdom or even screw ups to warn others about but I am just tweaking aluminum pieces and drilling holes. My wife showed up and worked all afternoon de-burring holes in the panels. You may remember her and her sun hat from the FFR Open House videos on You Tube. Now if I can just get her to do all the rivets lol. Sheet metal bending pliers are helpful for slightly adjusting the bends.219205219206219207219208

[Ejzajac]

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/pop-rivet-guns/rivet-tools-2~/extra-leverage-manual-tools-for-blind-rivets-7/

Thanks.
YOU show me how to spend money with the best of them!

[Mike.Bray]

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Everything in your shop looks so shiny and new, that bench vice......

[Aleinsteingenius]

Yes that is why it took me so long to get started. First I had to build the shop. now, finally I am working on the car.

[Aleinsteingenius]

That one huge old bench vise was in my grandfather's shop. I am pretty sure the other one Noah used while building the ark.

[Mike.Bray]

Thanks.
YOU show me how to spend money with the best of them!

Always glad to help out.

To be fair, I've had that rivet gun for a long time and it was for another project, not car related.

[Aleinsteingenius]

My ancient bench vises. Good for banging on with large hammers.

219311

[PNWTim]

Those old vises are worth their weight in gold. Nice to keep them in the family.

[Aleinsteingenius]

I wish I had something more exciting to report to this build thread. I spent the day drilling and clecoing aluminum again. Tomorrow I should be done with all of it and there was much rejoicing. Then they go off to the powdercoater, and I can start installing stuff on the car finally.

219322

[Jeff Kleiner]

I wish I had something more exciting to report to this build thread...

That actually IS exciting and a significant milestone!

Jeff

[JayOH]

219206

Go Big Red!

[Aleinsteingenius]

Big Red. That was a LONG time ago.

Today I worked on installing the front suspension. To slightly spread the mounting tabs I used a gigantic Crescent wrench. It worked well. I purchased the Howe ball joints. They went right in using another giant Crescent wrench. I used the boots that came with the kit ball joints and they fit. The UCA measurements were close with the adjustment screwed all the way down but that would not allow any future adjustment when getting alignment done so i took off the back "turnbuckles" and cut them down 3/8" and the cut down the threaded parts also 3/8". I used a chop saw on the "turnbuckles" and a hacksaw on the threaded parts. Then i cleaned them up with a file, added lots of messy anti-seize and re-assembled. This wasn't too hard and I will probaby be glad I did it in the future. I tried to do an alignment myself on my wife's V12 XJS Jag. When I took it to an alignment shop the guys there had a really good laugh.

Oh yeah. My wheels and tires showed up today. Now I just need a suspension to bolt them to.

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[Mike.Bray]

I use a piece of all thread with washers & nuts to spread flanges. Much more controlled and you're pushing where the bolts actually go through. Also easier on my elbow than pulling on a big adjustable wrench.

[Aleinsteingenius]

219544

I got the front suspension in. No real issues. My wife saw it and said, "YOU did this?"

219543
I couldn't resist.

[Aleinsteingenius]

I guess it is time for an update. I have nothing too unique to report. The front end and brakes are all in. I pick up all the powder-coated aluminum pieces tomorrow. They got them all done in just 5 days!

Today I got to play Wackamole with the lug bolts and get the new ones in. Then I chopped off the ears of the spindles (gulp) and drilled out the mounting holes in them. By using a big cordless drill and setting it a clutch setting instead of drill so you dont get a broken wrist.

219716219717219718219719219720219721
219722

They sent me a picture of our engine under construction. I think we are going to need a big shoehorn to get this in!
219723

It appears I got some extra suspension parts.

[JimStone]

Is that engine going in a Spitfire or a Cobra? Impressive!

[gbranham]

That picture of the engine is interesting. Zoom in on the valvetrain...looks like a CAD drawing. And they are brave putting that heavy engine on such a meager cart. Hummm...something doesn't feel right about that picture. Should be a beast, though.

[Aleinsteingenius]

For some reason the picture of the engine did not upload very clear on here. They sent me several pictures and in them it is clear it is not a doctored pic. Hopefully they will ship the engine on a strong enough cart. Yeah, it is a big engine "Anything worth doing is worth overdoing" lol.

[Aleinsteingenius]

I wanted to get the differential installed today, but none of my friends were around. I got my wife to come help me. She weighs about as much as the differential, so you can guess how well that went. After she stormed off, I kept trying different ways to get it in. My big floor jack didn't work because the four-post lift was in the way. The engine hoist was hard to work while muscling the pumpkin around. I kept trying different things all the while thinking "How the hell did the Egyptians build those pyramids anyway?".
Bad words were said.

Finally I got it in. There was much rejoicing....

219783219784

[Jeff Kleiner]

Ratchet straps are the best helpers for installing the center section :)

Jeff

[Aleinsteingenius]

Jeff, If I were smart I would have used ractchet straps. As my wife would have said "Way to go Einstein" lol.

The four-post lift, in addition to saving my replaced hip and knee joints, makes it easy to sweep the shop. Best $2900 I spent.

219808

[Aleinsteingenius]

Be careful I was throwing out the box from Ford that the IRS center section came in, and I found this lying in the bottom of the box. It is the fitting for the vent. I almost threw it out.

219817219817

[Ejzajac]

YES. Plastic plug should be in place during shipping and easily removed. Vent fitting is gently "plastic" hammered into place and a gas line can be used to extend the vent higher in frame. Some will add a screen if your worried about bugs.

Ed Z

[Aleinsteingenius]

OK, I said at the beginning of this thread that I would share my screw ups to keep others from making the same mistakes. Pretty much all the things that make my wife say "Way to go, Einstein".

So here is one. The bolts that attach the IRS spindles to the hubs are special bolts that come from Ford with the spindles or with the hubs. Either I never got them or I threw them out with the garbage. I learned that they are not part of the kit and should have been in with the Ford parts after a call to FFR. I then did some pretty impressive dumpster diving looking for them. My guess is I never got them. Not a big deal, I ordered them from Ford.

This next one is a good one. On page 115 of the Mark V manual, it says to "Torque the front and rear bolts to 100 ft/lbs". DO THIS. If you go to the end of the section,page 138, and refer to the Torque Specifications table, it says to torque them to 129 ft/lbs. DO NOT DO THIS. I did, and it stripped the threads in the aluminum case. Luckily, I only stripped one side. My new plan is to drill through the aluminum and use a longer 5 1/4" grade 8 bolt and nut from McMaster-Carr. FFR confirmed this is ok to do.

My wife: "Remember you are doing this for fun" ugh

[Aleinsteingenius]

Ok, update time, and I have a question for the FF Brain Trust.

I got the IRS in and the brakes installed. There were some bad words said when I stripped the treads in the horns of the rear end, but i got over it.

Now I have installed the steering shafts. I had to cut about 2" off the shorter 3/4 shaft to get it to 12.5". The longer shaft seems like it is a little too long also. lt did measure the 18.35" it says it should be in the book. The Ujoint is right up against the bearing. For the FF self-cancelling turn signals, you are supposed to use 3/8 bolts for the pillow block but the square holes in the TS bracket are too small for 3/8. I used some 5/16 button heads instead. I did not receive the spacer described in the book for the turn signal bracket so put in some washers instead. Once it was all in and tightened down, it seems like it is binding. Is this because the suspension is hanging all the way down? Should I shorten the longer 3/4" shaft? 220266220267220268

I want to do more than just ask stupid questions here, so I have a couple of tips. The first one I saw was on somebody's YouTube build, and it really works. Clorox wipes are great for cleaning up all the silicone that gushes out when pop riveting panels. They are so easy to grab where they just pop up out of the container. I am using black silicone so it is super yucky.
220269

The second thing is I used Mclube Sailkote dry lubricant when putting together the steering parts. It is clear, and when it dries, things stay pretty slippery. I have it because we use it on the luff of sails, so they slide up and down easily. A big can is about $50. You only need a little, so go find a sailor friend.

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[rponfick]

I put a 3/4" spacer under my rear bearing to lower the steering angle somewhat as Jeff Kleiner has mentioned. Also, my seats are raised about 3 1/2" for my small stature.
Ralph

[Aleinsteingenius]

I have the opposite problem I need everything as big as possible. I got the steering to not bind with some use of my cutoff wheel and grinder. Now I am playing with the pedals. A lifetime of working on airplanes has me big on fixing problems before they fail therefore I replaced all the Wilwoods MCs with Tiltons using 3/4" for the brakes and 13/16" for the clutch. I also have a Tilton external throw-out bearing. See Mike Bray I have been listening lol.

[Aleinsteingenius]

If you happen to do like me and order a complete kit with Wilwood MC's and then decide to install Tiltons you can rob the brass jam nuts from the Wilwoods and put them on the Tiltons. You can then double jam them and make the adjustment of the MC's easier. I am now playing with the gas pedal location. I have ordered a Lokar cable to go with the stack injection.

220371

[Jeff Kleiner]

If you happen to do like me and order a complete kit with Wilwood MC's and then decide to install Tiltons you can rob the brass jam nuts from the Wilwoods and put them on the Tiltons. You can then double jam them and make the adjustment of the MC's easier. I am now playing with the gas pedal location. I have ordered a Lokar cable to go with the stack injection.

220371

Hey Einstein! I'm afraid you're going to find that those 75 series Tilton's aren't going to fit your Mk5. That clamp on adapter is going to conflict with the chassis on the right side. I used Tilton 76 series on mine; they have a more compact body which will accept a 7/16 banjo to 3 AN fitting. After building mine with the 76s I decided to lower the pedal box about 1/2"-3/4" to achieve a pedal position that better suited me. I can't say for sure but with the pedal box moved down the 75 series might clear...MIGHT...but your feet may not like it lowered.

See ya,
Jeff

[Mike.Bray]

Tilton 76 series installed in my MKIV.

220372

[Aleinsteingenius]

It turns out Tilton 75's will JUST fit in a MKV without lowering anything. I would rather be lucky than smart.
220395
I need the pedals as high as possible because I have giant Herman Munster feet. It appears I can raise the kit supplied gas pedal about 2" without hitting anything important. Please chime in if this is another one of my dumb ideas. I have a Lokar cable on order since I will be hooking it to Indy stacks.
220396
I dont have the engine here yet. I have every part other than the engine. That is a little like saying "Other than that Mrs. Lincoln how did you like the play?"
220397

[Jeff Kleiner]

It turns out Tilton 75's will JUST fit in a MKV without lowering anything. I would rather be lucky than smart.
220395


As I mentioned I used the 76s, primarily because I preferred the banjo rather than the barbed supply line attachment, but it's good to know that the 75s will also fit especially since it was reported in another Mk5 build thread that they would not. One of those situations where something will either "not quite" or "just barely" fit and "just barely" is good enough:)

Jeff

[Blitzboy54]

It turns out Tilton 75's will JUST fit in a MKV without lowering anything. I would rather be lucky than smart.
]

Words to live by

[Aleinsteingenius]

It's been a long time since I updated this thread. I have been having fun hooking up brakes. I put in the factory emergency brake, hooked to the Wilwood brakes with the trims here and there that have been well documented. Twice in my life, I have used a handle emergency brake to sneak home after a total brake failure on single brake systems, so an electric emergency brake is not for me, especially with the balance bar; you could have total brake failure despite having two MCs.

Next came brake fluid reservoirs. I couldn't figure out where to mount them. I wanted to use all three nice shiny reservoirs, but where to mount them. I am putting in a Godzilla engine, so it's hard to tell where they will be in the way. I made a bracket to mount them in a place where they will not be covered by the body. will not be in the way of the hood struts, and will not hit the engine. I have them mounted in such a way that the mount can be unscrewed from the rivnuts in the frame, rotated out of the way until the engine is in....I think this will work (he says uncertainly).

On to brake lines. I had five flairing tools in my shop. Some of them were very expensive. None of them was worth a damn. I bought a small Titan flare tool from Summit. They are good for re-flaring lines still in the car. My track record with flairing lines says I will have to redo some of them. This $48 tool made nice flares.

221351221352

I bent up brake lines using a piece of solder as a template, as others have done. I like to leave a few inches of straight tubing before the fitting rather than a coiled loop. This gives me some extra straight tube for redoing the leaky ones I screw up. I also used zip ties to hold the brake lines in place until I get them bled and have no leaks. Then I will drill and rivet in all the cushion clips. Stay tuned

221353221354221353221355

[RobHartley]

This was the tool we used at the Build School and it seem to work well, that said is this one of the challenging flaring tools in your collection?
221384

[Aleinsteingenius]

I don't have one like that. I like the small Titan flare tool because if I need to I can use it to re-flare a tube without having to remove it from the car. That could be important for leaks after the car is built. Tomorrow my wife is going to help me bleed the brakes and we will see how well I did.

[Aleinsteingenius]

Bled the brakes today with the help of my beautiful assistant (she makes me call her that lol). I first back-fed the lines with a small sprayer as shown on The Roadster Experience on YouTube. We had minimal leaks, so the little Titan flare tool did ok. Now I have to clean up all the brake fluid we squirted all over. Next up is the quick-release steering wheel and the fuel system.

221419221421

[Mike.Bray]

You are making quick work! Looking good there!

[Aleinsteingenius]

Thanks Mike. The standard stuff is pretty easy. Things are going to slow way down as I get to things that are specific to the Godzilla engine. i will just have to figure it out as I go.

[Aleinsteingenius]

Some more progress to report. I installed the FFR turn signal switch, and I also installed the Breeze quick-connect hub for the steering wheel. This requires you to weld the hub to the shaft and then very carefully drill and tap holes for the steering wheel to mount to the new hub. It was kind of tricky but it will really help me get my giant self out of the car. There is a little more play between the Breeze hub and the flange you weld to the steering shaft than I would like. I may try to wrap a piece of aluminum foil in there to take up the slack. Stay tuned.

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We also got to a big milestone. The car for the first time is sitting on it's own wheels!! It rolls back and forth, has steering and brakes!

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Now I have the car rolled back on the lift so I can install the gas tank. I plan to use a motorcycle lift I have sitting here to raise the tank up to the frame. The first rule of farming "Never use anything for it's intended purpose". Stay tuned.

221585

[Aleinsteingenius]

Now that this beast is finally here. I am set to assemble it and put it in the car after I come back from hip replacement surgery. It SHOULD fit (looks at the car and back at the engine nervously) lol.

221882221883221884221885221886221887

[rickster991]

Nice!

[PNWTim]

That thing is awesome!

[Aleinsteingenius]

It dyno'ed at 692 hp and 675 ft/lbs of torque. Mental...I know. I should probably see if I can buy replacement rear tires in bulk lol.

[danmas]

It dyno'ed at 692 hp and 675 ft/lbs of torque. Mental...I know. I should probably see if I can buy replacement rear tires in bulk lol.

That is insane…..ly COOL. Wow. I’ve always been a bit over the top but you are overer the top.

[Nigel Allen]

Cool engine. Will fry tires in every gear. Just take care not to let it get the better of you like this:
Collector Car Driver Killed in Crash ID’d – NBC 7 San Diego https://share.google/mTWGDtR5alBAGWBmM

Saul was a regular here, and built a serious horsepower car that could break traction at any speed. Sadly, it bit him.

Really enjoying following your build, it's going to be a special car.

Cheers,

Nige

[Aleinsteingenius]

Thanks, Nigel. I decided if I wanted to do this project, I wanted to do something different. Flying antique airplanes for decades, there was also no room for screwing around. One mistake and you are dead. At 17 years old, I was flying a 1928 biplane with a 760 cubic inch radial engine. If I wasn't careful, I would not still be around. "There are old pilots and bold pilots, but there are no old bold pilots" lol

[cv2065]

Now that this beast is finally here. I am set to assemble it and put it in the car after I come back from hip replacement surgery. It SHOULD fit (looks at the car and back at the engine nervously) lol.

221882221883221884221885221886221887

Engine looks insane!!

[cv2065]

Cool engine. Will fry tires in every gear. Just take care not to let it get the better of you like this:
Collector Car Driver Killed in Crash ID’d – NBC 7 San Diego https://share.google/mTWGDtR5alBAGWBmM

Saul was a regular here, and built a serious horsepower car that could break traction at any speed. Sadly, it bit him.

Really enjoying following your build, it's going to be a special car.

Cheers,

Nige

Yeah that was very sad. Saul was running a Roush Supercharged Coyote in that car which I think was in the 750 HP range. I almost went that route.

[Aleinsteingenius]

I am on injured reserve recovering from hip replacement. In the meantime I am thinking about things I should add to my MK V. Has anybody come up with a easily attachable tow bracket for the MKV? I could see a problem winching the car into a trailer or on a flatbed when one of the screw ups I am sure to do bites me.

[rickster991]

I was able to pass it through the lower opening and grab the frame without issues. I’ve winched it onto/off the trailer several times. The bar that secures the body protects it. FYI

[The Stig]

Now that this beast is finally here. I am set to assemble it and put it in the car after I come back from hip replacement surgery. It SHOULD fit (looks at the car and back at the engine nervously) lol.

221882221883221884221885221886221887

LOL. I love the size reference between the ITB's and the Hammer. Looks like you found the right tool to make that thing fit!

That's going to be something for sure. I can't wait to hear that one start for the first time.

Mike

[Mike.Bray]

Now that this beast is finally here. I am set to assemble it and put it in the car after I come back from hip replacement surgery. It SHOULD fit (looks at the car and back at the engine nervously) lol.

221882221883221884221885221886221887

Does the Godzilla have a flat plane crank?

[cv2065]

The Godzilla looks to be about the same width as a Coyote (~28") valve cover to valve cover, give or take an inch. Definitely can't wait to see it. I know Backdraft has shoe horned it in but not sure of the body dimension differences. It will look awesome!! To Mike's question, no, the Godzilla does not have a flat plane crank.

[Aleinsteingenius]

The Godzilla does not have a flat plane crank. It is a heavy-duty truck motor with 6 bolt mains. It supposedly is a couple of inches narrower than a Coyote and about the same length as a Windsor. Height is the challenge. I have estimated with the high clearance oil pan and the super short stacks, it will fit under the hood without a scoop. Nothing can go wrong lol.

I am doing hip PT like an animal so I can get back in my shop and see. Stay tuned.

[Aleinsteingenius]

Rickster, I am planning to run an oil cooler in the lower opening. That may require me to invent some sort of tow hook bracket. Maybe that hooks to the sway bar?

[egchewy79]

I am on injured reserve recovering from hip replacement. In the meantime I am thinking about things I should add to my MK V. Has anybody come up with a easily attachable tow bracket for the MKV? I could see a problem winching the car into a trailer or on a flatbed when one of the screw ups I am sure to do bites me.

Any idea if Martin Lira’s tow bar works for MKV? Roadstertowbar.com

[TrackDay17]

That engine definitely tops out the coolness factor.:cool:

[gbranham]

Does the Godzilla have a flat plane crank?

The only Ford engine with a flat plane crank is the Voodoo 5.2 in the GT350.

Greg

[Jeff Kleiner]

Any idea if Martin Lira’s tow bar works for MKV? Roadstertowbar.com

It does not.

Jeff

[Aleinsteingenius]

Thanks Jeff (puts on mad inventor hat)

[Mike.Bray]

The only Ford engine with a flat plane crank is the Voodoo 5.2 in the GT350.

Greg

That's it! I knew one of the Ford engines had a flat plane crank but couldn't remember which one. Thanks Greg

[Aleinsteingenius]

Ok....after 6 weeks of lameness due to total hip replacement I am back! Did you miss me? Now I have to figure out how to get that giant Godzilla engine in the car. First I need to do the clutch, bellhousing, and transmission install. My "beautiful assistant" magically knew I needed a ball bearing engine leveler and a dial indicator for Christmas. Now I have to take her to Florida for a couple of weeks...its 23 degrees here. I hope to have to engine ready to install when we get back. I plan to put the back wheels on the four post lift (As seen on IE 427) and raise it up with the engine hoist sliding under the front. What could possibly go wrong?lol

[Aleinsteingenius]

I decided I should get the Godzilla ready to go in the car so its ready when we get back from Florida. The problem with that plan is the engine in its stand was sitting very low to the ground and my newly replaced hip is not crazy about me getting down on the floor. To help with this I used my engine hoist to lift the engine up and put the engine stand on some 4x6s. In order to do this I had to remove the power steering pump and make a spreader bar so the engine leveler would not hit the injector stacks.
224741
Next it was time to mount the Ram flywheel, but I realized I didn't have the bolts. I also realized I didn't have the bolts for bolting the Centerforce pressure plate to the flywheel or the bolts to attach the Tremec TKX to the Quicktime bellhousing. What bolts should I use? Here is the helpful tip. I went on X and asked Super Grok. That is Elon Musk's AI. It costs $150 a year but is so worth it. In about a minute, it searched all the manuals, instructions, forums, and catalogues in the world. It told me the exact size and rating of the bolts I needed. It even gave the exact part numbers for the Ram, Centerforce, Quicktime,and Tremec bolts I needed!224742
Once the proper bolts arrived I had no problem bolting up the flywheel and getting it torqued down. Next i needed to check the run out on the Quicktime bellhousing. I watched so many Youtube videos about how to do this that my "beautiful assistant" said "I think you are starting to have a THING about bellhousings". I took the plugs out of the engine so I could turn it over with a breaker bar on the front pulley. Then I had to get down on my knees, attach the magnetic dial indicator to the flywheel then get up, go to the front of the engine, turn it over a quater turn, then go back to the rear of the engine, get on my knees again and check the reading. Then get up move it a little more and get back down on my knees. I did this over and over and over. Every time the dial indicator would come loose from the flywheel and move so I would have to start over (after I put some money in the swear jar each time). I finally gave up

[Aleinsteingenius]

When I was home for lunch, I asked Grok the best way to attach the dial indicator. It said to take out four of the eight bolts, thereby leaving a flat area for the magnetic base to attach. I did that, and it worked the first time. After all of that and after checking numerous times my Quicktime bellhousing was just .00325 out. Well within the allowed .005 limit.224743224744224745
Now for the "Dumb Question of the Week". What are these things? I found two triangular things and one round spacer of some kind in a box marked Godzilla install kit. I suspect the round thing is for use with a stock style air intake but ?
224746224747

[Mike.Bray]

Be sure and check the flange on that Quicktime bellhousing that it doesn't hang below the frame rails, you may need to trim some off. You don't want that to be your skidplate!

[Aleinsteingenius]

Good tip Mike. It looks like it sticks down the same amount as the Holly oil pan on the Godzilla, which would be an even worse skidplate.

[JimStone]

When I was home for lunch, I asked Grok the best way to attach the dial indicator. It said to take out four of the eight bolts, thereby leaving a flat area for the magnetic base to attach. I did that, and it worked the first time. After all of that and after checking numerous times my Quicktime bellhousing was just .00325 out. Well within the allowed .005 limit.224743224744224745
Now for the "Dumb Question of the Week". What are these things? I found two triangular things and one round spacer of some kind in a box marked Godzilla install kit. I suspect the round thing is for use with a stock style air intake but ?
224746224747



Wild guess here (I know nothing about the Godzilla) but those big powder coated triangle things have similar size/look to the LS motor mount adaptors FFR sent me.

The things my son is installing

Again, just guessing

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218854&d=1757886199

[Aleinsteingenius]

Thanks Jim. I was leaning that way. i will check on that tomorrow and report back.

[Aleinsteingenius]

Jim, you are right! They are spacers for the engine mounts. There are no installation instructions for the Godzilla so I get to figure this stuff out as I go.

[Aleinsteingenius]

Ok update time. I managed to get the TKX transmission mounted to the engine using my super handy motorcycle lift and the engine hoist. It would be better if you have friends help with this part. Next I will install the Forte slave cyliinder and when we get back from Florida the engine goes in....hopefully. What could possibly go wrong?

225054225055225056

[Aleinsteingenius]

Ok, we are back from Florida and done with all that blizzard nonsense. I am now getting serious about getting the Godzilla into the car. But first...

When I started this build thread, I said I would not try to show people how to build one of these cars. There are many threads like Edwardb's that do that better than I ever could. Instead, I said I would document my screw-ups so others could avoid them.

Here is one. I decided to install the pedals, MCs, brake lines, etc., while waiting for my engine to be delivered. I assumed, for some reason, that I would need a throttle cable for my stack system. I spent a week modifying the FFR gas pedal to accommodate my giant feet. When the engine came in, I realized it required a drive-by-wire throttle pedal like a Coyote. Ugh. I ordered one of those pedals, and now I am installing it. I also had to pull the MCs out because I had not properly adjusted them for side-to-side clearance. Since I was going to have to re-bleed the system anyway, I pulled out the reservoirs I had installed to give me more room for installing the Godzilla.

I found I have a couple of extra Willwood pedal pads, so my current plan is to use one for a dead pedal and one on the cut-off throttle. This will allow me to offset them and make more room for my Frankenstein feet. 226384

Next up I will try to organize some friends to help and we will get then engine in. Stay tuned

[Mike.Bray]

I've never seen stacks with DBW, interesting. Any idea what is being used on the stacks for the actuator or whatever it's called?

[Jeff Kleiner]

Might just be the photo but it looks like that throttle pedal is in the same plane as the brake, or maybe even a little closer to the driver.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226384&d=1772660844

Neither is a good idea. You always want the throttle lower than the brake so that when applying the brakes you don't inadvertently also depress the throttle.

Jeff

[Aleinsteingenius]

Mike,
Here is a picture of the actuator on the InnoV8 Stacks. I have no idea how it works but I guess we will find out. lol
226388

Jeff,
The gas pedal is almost 3" further away than the brake pedal. I have not even tried to do any adjusting yet. I could put it lower but ...the giant size 15 feet thing again. I think I can move the brake pedal over some.

[cv2065]

I’m ready for that engine install!!

[Aleinsteingenius]

Today I did a dress rehearsal for the engine install. I plan to use the lift to raise the back end of the car, an idea I stole from i.e. 427. I will also use a power socket on the leveler. This is a very heavy engine so I will wait for next weekend when I can gather up some friends. With enough beer and a couple of crowbars we should get it done.
226510226511

[Aleinsteingenius]

So....is the Godzilla a heavy motor? Yep.

226613

I used that hoist to install a lot of airplane motors. This is a whole different thing. I am glad the shipping frame was still bolted to the motor. Extending hoist legs waay out.

[cv2065]

So....is the Godzilla a heavy motor? Yep.

226613

I used that hoist to install a lot of airplane motors. This is a whole different thing. I am glad the shipping frame was still bolted to the motor. Extending hoist legs waay out.

LOL...Shouldn't be that much different than a 427 SBF. Both should be in the neighborhood of 535-540lbs. A 2 ton crane will easily handle both.

[Aleinsteingenius]

It should be fine now. I just had to extend the legs. I didnt even know they could go out that far. I have friends coming Sat to help me put it in. I need one fat guy to stand on the back of the hoist lol.

Today I test-fit the SS Godzilla headers from FFR. They are beautiful and fit perfectly. This may be the first and only set they have sold. Well done FFR.
226628

[rickster991]

A bag of organic soil goes a long way!

226634

[Mike.Bray]

226640

[Aleinsteingenius]

GODZILLA!!!!!

How many guys does it take to install a Godzilla engine in a Cobra? Apparently, 6 and a half.
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Thanks to my son Kyle, son-in-law Steve, friends Craig, Anthony, Shane, and my 8-year-old grandson James, we got it in! I ended up removing the reservoirs and fuel regulator, whose location I had guessed at before I had the motor. I think I can put them back.
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Now on to hooking everything up.
Some people were concerned that the bellhousing or oil pan might hang down below the frame. I was very concerned about this too. I am happy to report that with that they are nicely above the frame. Phwew!

[Mike.Bray]

Very nice! Congratulations.

[Blitzboy54]

That is a big son of a ....

[cv2065]

Perfect fit! Looks great!

[danmas]

Fabulous!

[Jeff Kleiner]

I never had any doubt that you'd get it in there...somehow! :D

Jeff

[TrackDay17]

I can't wait to hear that monster come to life !

[RobHartley]

Looking forward to hearing the monster roar to life!

[Aleinsteingenius]

More fun in the unexplored territory of jamming a Godzilla in a roadster. In an attempt to line up the driveshaft, I made a spacer from a piece of 3/4"aluminum I had in the scrap metal bin. By luck, it seems to be very close to perfect. Now to get everything torqued down and on to the next thing.

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Getting the driveshaft in was one of those things where you try it 50 times and then, for some unexplained reason, suddenly it drops right in lol.

[Aleinsteingenius]

Well....I wanted a challenging project because "it will be fun". I am really having "fun" now. Getting the giant Godzilla engine in was not that big a deal. Fabricating spacers to align the driveshaft was ok. Now I am on to installing the headers. The stainless steel headers from FFR are beautiful. What bolts to use? Stage 8 and ARP don't make header bolts for the Godzilla. Nobody makes the aftermarket header gaskets people like so much on the forum for the Godzilla. I ended up getting high-quality SS M10 1.25 bolts from McMaster Carr and SS Nord-Lok lock washers (we have used these before on aircraft). I ordered OEM gaskets from Ford Performance, which came with OEM studs. There was no way to use studs because you could never get the headers on.

Getting the driver's side header on was one of the hardest projects I have ever had. I bruised the bone in my wrist trying to get the bolts started. I finally got it installed with lots of zinc high-temp anti-seize on the SS bolts going into the aluminum heads. In my football days, I used to put black on my face under my eyes to cut glare. By the end of the game, despite wearing a full facemask helmet the whole time, I always had it spread everywhere. I do the same thing with anti-seize. It gets on stuff I didn't even touch!

Now on to the passenger side header. The driver's side was super difficult, but the passenger side is impossible! There was no way to even get the header in there without removing the dipstick tube. The dipstick tube was trapped between the block and the engine mount. I managed to get it out and put the header in place, but there would be absolutely no way to get it back in. As for putting in the header bolts ...NFW!

So what now? I called FFR and got them to send me a new inner passenger footbox panel. I plan to cut a big hatch in that panel, which will allow me access to the header bolts, dip stick tube, and will make accessing the starter easier. I will cut the hatch cover from the new panel with an overlap and use sheet metal screws with star washers. Then I will put the hoist back on the engine and raise it as I loosen the engine mount bolts from the block. That should allow me to get the dipstick tube back in. Then I can torque down the header and engine mounts. I will leave the hatch off until after the go-kart stage.

My great plan of mounting the brake reservoirs before I even had the engine did not go well. There is no way they will fit where i had them. i ordered a Tilton reservoir and will mount it just where Edward B did. I know...I should have listened to him.

I am writing this now, before I do all of this, in case any of you have a better idea. I can't think of anything unless you have a mechanically inclined spider monkey.

I will post pics when I figure out why they won't post

[cv2065]

I had the same issue with my Roush engine. The oil dipstick was interfering with the headers, but it was on the driver's side. Total PITA. I had to replace with a flexible dipstick then put it around the back of the header with a fabricated bracket as it wouldn't fit in-between. I was able to reinsert from underneath. You have even less space so I feel your pain but it will be worth it.

If you can't navigate the headers and dipstick from underneath, I'd say the footbox hole sounds interesting.

[JimStone]

I have a 5 year-old you could borrow. Small hands...

[PNWTim]

Well....I wanted a challenging project because "it will be fun". I am really having "fun" now. Getting the giant Godzilla engine in was not that big a deal. Fabricating spacers to align the driveshaft was ok. Now I am on to installing the headers. The stainless steel headers from FFR are beautiful. What bolts to use? Stage 8 and ARP don't make header bolts for the Godzilla. Nobody makes the aftermarket header gaskets people like so much on the forum for the Godzilla. I ended up getting high-quality SS M10 1.25 bolts from McMaster Carr and SS Nord-Lok lock washers (we have used these before on aircraft). I ordered OEM gaskets from Ford Performance, which came with OEM studs. There was no way to use studs because you could never get the headers on.

Getting the driver's side header on was one of the hardest projects I have ever had. I bruised the bone in my wrist trying to get the bolts started. I finally got it installed with lots of zinc high-temp anti-seize on the SS bolts going into the aluminum heads. In my football days, I used to put black on my face under my eyes to cut glare. By the end of the game, despite wearing a full facemask helmet the whole time, I always had it spread everywhere. I do the same thing with anti-seize. It gets on stuff I didn't even touch!

Now on to the passenger side header. The driver's side was super difficult, but the passenger side is impossible! There was no way to even get the header in there without removing the dipstick tube. The dipstick tube was trapped between the block and the engine mount. I managed to get it out and put the header in place, but there would be absolutely no way to get it back in. As for putting in the header bolts ...NFW!

So what now? I called FFR and got them to send me a new inner passenger footbox panel. I plan to cut a big hatch in that panel, which will allow me access to the header bolts, dip stick tube, and will make accessing the starter easier. I will cut the hatch cover from the new panel with an overlap and use sheet metal screws with star washers. Then I will put the hoist back on the engine and raise it as I loosen the engine mount bolts from the block. That should allow me to get the dipstick tube back in. Then I can torque down the header and engine mounts. I will leave the hatch off until after the go-kart stage.

My great plan of mounting the brake reservoirs before I even had the engine did not go well. There is no way they will fit where i had them. i ordered a Tilton reservoir and will mount it just where Edward B did. I know...I should have listened to him.

I am writing this now, before I do all of this, in case any of you have a better idea. I can't think of anything unless you have a mechanically inclined spider monkey.

I will post pics when I figure out why they won't post

"Build a car", "it will be fun" said no one ever...:rolleyes:

I worked in a wooden boat restoration shop when I was in college. We used a lot of Sikaflex 241 which must be chemically related to anti-sieze in another universe. We nicknamed it "dogetaround". If you weren't careful you'd have it in your hair, under your shoe and somehow between two ones in your wallet.

[Mike.Bray]

I do the same thing with anti-seize. It gets on stuff I didn't even touch!

Like this?

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[Aleinsteingenius]

I have done a lot of yacht restoration. I know Sikaflex well. It's even harder to clean up than anti-seize

[JimStone]

FWIW, there is a MkIII with a Godzilla currently on BAT bid up to $110,000 with 4 days left! Good investment, me thinks

[Jeff Kleiner]

FWIW, there is a MkIII with a Godzilla currently on BAT bid up to $110,000 with 4 days left! Good investment, me thinks

You realize that's not a FFR, right?

Jeff

[JimStone]

You realize that's not a FFR, right?

Jeff

My bad!!!

[Aleinsteingenius]

I am finding that while a Godzilla will technically fit in a MkV, there are a lot of issues. You have to do a lot of engineering to get everything hooked up properly. i will update this thread with pictures when I can.