Last decisions before placing my order...

[dalves]

I've been looking at building a roadster for well over a year now, and I'm getting ready to take the plunge and place my order (edit: for a Mark 5). I'm looking to build a car for cruising and occasional spirited driving, but don't plan on ever tracking or racing it. My priorities, in rough order of most to least important, are:

Comfort and drivability [Most important]
Quality / durability of parts
Ease of building & maintaining the car (e.g. parts availability, easy to access things)
Vintage / period-correct look & sound
Performance
Cost [Least important]

I'm planning to do the mechanical work myself, and then have a professional do the body work and painting.

This is the direction I'm thinking of going based on those priorities:

Engine: 347 or 363 SBF with port fuel injection
Transmission: TKX, hydraulic clutch
Rear end: IRS
Wheels: 15" -- I know this will severely limit tire and brake choices, but I love the look
Hydraulic power steering -- electrical might be simpler to install but my understanding is that hydraulic feels better.

There's lots of other decisions to make about my build, but I think those are the major ones that I should make before placing an order. There are still a few items on the order form that I'm not sure about though:

1. Side exhaust: I think the best option for me in the Mark 4 days would have been to delete the side pipes and order a set of Gas-N touring pipes, because lots of people said that the stock FFR pipes were too loud and harsh, and that the fiberglass packing blew out over time. In the Mark 5 reveal, Dave Smith said that they're making new side pipes now that are quieter and higher quality. Not sure whether I should go with the FFR pipes or order Gas-N touring pipes. Does anyone have firsthand experience with the new FFR side pipes?

2. Powder coating: Any reason not to do this? I've seen some people mention using POR-15 instead of powder coating, but I'm not sure if that's on the frame and panels or just the frame?

3. Brakes: I think Gordon Levy sells a Wilwood kit that will work with 15" wheels and IR. I think that's the best option? In which case I should order the 11" front brakes and omit the rear brakes?

4. Cut-outs: Any reason to do traced cutouts? It seems like I might as well just have them do the actual cutouts.

5. Mirrors: I think both bullet and ray-dot mirrors attach to the body, so I'd probably just skip them and get the breeze ones that attach to the side of the windshield for better visibility? (https://breezeautomotive.com/shop/sideview-mirror-set-4-polished-billet-aluminum-made-in-usa/)

6. Hood scoop: I'm planning on painting it, so I think that means there's no reason to pay extra for carbon fiber?

7. EFI In-Tank Fuel System: Is the FFR-supplied part a good option, or should I order my own fuel pump from somewhere else?


Apologies for the giant wall of text, and thank you to anyone who made it through the whole thing. :) Any and all feedback welcome.

[gbranham]

For #7, skip all the FFR options and source stuff yourself. I used literally none of the EFI fuel supply parts from the kit.

The powdercoating option from FFR is essential in my opinion. Otherwise, you're hauling your frame to a powdercoater, hauling it back, etc. Not sure you'd save any money, but if you want some whacky color, then I get it.

[Ford & Jeep Fan]

I've been looking at building a roadster for well over a year now, and I'm getting ready to take the plunge and place my order. I'm looking to build a car for cruising and occasional spirited driving, but don't plan on ever tracking or racing it. My priorities, in rough order of most to least important, are:

Comfort and drivability [Most important]
Quality / durability of parts
Ease of building & maintaining the car (e.g. parts availability, easy to access things)
Vintage / period-correct look & sound
Performance
Cost [Least important]

I'm planning to do the mechanical work myself, and then have a professional do the body work and painting.

This is the direction I'm thinking of going based on those priorities:

Engine: 347 or 363 SBF with port fuel injection
Transmission: TKX, hydraulic clutch
Rear end: IRS
Wheels: 15" -- I know this will severely limit tire and brake choices, but I love the look
Hydraulic power steering -- electrical might be simpler to install but my understanding is that hydraulic feels better.
......... Any and all feedback welcome.

I'm surprised you haven't set your sights on the Mark V for the comfort factor.

[Mike.Bray]

I'll add a few thoughts for you.




Comfort and drivability [Most important] Power steering, hydraulic throwout bearing, maybe hydraboost brakes, heated seats. About as comfortable as you're going to get in a Cobra.
Quality / durability of parts Good plan. A lot of failures of the Wilwood master cylinders suppled by Factory Five. Upgrade to Tilton. Same for the HTB.
Ease of building & maintaining the car (e.g. parts availability, easy to access things)
Vintage / period-correct look & sound
Performance
Cost [Least important]

I'm planning to do the mechanical work myself, and then have a professional do the body work and painting. Good plan.

This is the direction I'm thinking of going based on those priorities:

Engine: 347 or 363 SBF with port fuel injection The 347 will be a sweet engine. Look at the Edlebrock Pro Flo system.
Transmission: TKX, hydraulic clutch
Rear end: IRS
Wheels: 15" -- I know this will severely limit tire and brake choices, but I love the look
Hydraulic power steering -- electrical might be simpler to install but my understanding is that hydraulic feels better. Hydraulic PS gives better feel and return to center.

There's lots of other decisions to make about my build, but I think those are the major ones that I should make before placing an order. There are still a few items on the order form that I'm not sure about though:

1. Side exhaust: I think the best option for me in the Mark 4 days would have been to delete the side pipes and order a set of Gas-N touring pipes, because lots of people said that the stock FFR pipes were too loud and harsh, and that the fiberglass packing blew out over time. In the Mark 5 reveal, Dave Smith said that they're making new side pipes now that are quieter and higher quality. Not sure whether I should go with the FFR pipes or order Gas-N touring pipes. Does anyone have firsthand experience with the new FFR side pipes? I'm very happy with my headers and pipes from Factory Five.

2. Powder coating: Any reason not to do this? I've seen some people mention using POR-15 instead of powder coating, but I'm not sure if that's on the frame and panels or just the frame? The frame should be powder coated. Factory Five can supply it but it's kind of an ugly flat black. If you do it yourself you can pick a color and gloss.

3. Brakes: I think Gordon Levy sells a Wilwood kit that will work with 15" wheels and IR. I think that's the best option? In which case I should order the 11" front brakes and omit the rear brakes?

4. Cut-outs: Any reason to do traced cutouts? It seems like I might as well just have them

5. Mirrors: I think both bullet and ray-dot mirrors attach to the body, so I'd probably just skip them and get the breeze ones that attach to the side of the windshield for better visibility? (https://breezeautomotive.com/shop/sideview-mirror-set-4-polished-billet-aluminum-made-in-usa/) I have the Breeze ones and they are good. Look nice also.

6. Hood scoop: I'm planning on painting it, so I think that means there's no reason to pay extra for carbon fiber?

7. EFI In-Tank Fuel System: Is the FFR-supplied part a good option, or should I order my own fuel pump from somewhere else? Skip the over-priced FFR setup and call Forte for a less expensive drop in solution.


Apologies for the giant wall of text, and thank you to anyone who made it through the whole thing. :) Any and all feedback welcome.

[dalves]

I'm definitely getting a Mark V, sorry I forgot to specify that.

[JohnK]

Regarding the powder coating, you will definitely not save money having the frame powder coated locally, but you will end up with a better result. At least when I received my frame, it didn't appear that FFR did much in the way of frame prep before PC. There was tons of weld spatter all over the frame that was just coated over. Also, the prep by the PC shop seemed pretty minimal to me. There doesn't appear to be any primer coat under the PC coat. In contrast, I had my frame delivered bare, cleaned up all the weld spatter and cleaned up some welds, made a few small tweaks to the frame to suit my needs, and then had a local shop coat it for me. Yes, I had to rent a trailer to get it there and back, but they abrasive-blasted it, then put an industrial primer coat on it, and then coated it in the color of my choice. All for a few hundred dollars more than the FFR option. I would go this route again if I were to build another car.

[Tango]

As others have said, sourcing your own components will result in a significant cost savings and you can get exactly what you want. I went through Forte for my engine/trans, diff, brakes, EFI, Spindles & hubs and a few other components. I had a spreadsheet totaling the cost savings and it is a real number. His price and service is hard to beat. He was able to arrange for loading dock delivery (rather than residential) which saves some money as well. The approach I took…..don’t buy EVERYTHING up front just to have it sitting around your garage. Make your plan/decisions, document them along with the sources where you want to get them and any lead times….but hold off as best you can for a Black Friday type sale to purchase all the bells and whistles when they are on discount. For example: I got my visors, brake mesh, wind wings during the last 50% off accessories sale. Plus you may change your mind once you start building and it allows you to keep your flexibility for as long as you can.

[cv2065]

Congrats on your decision! The FFR community is second to none when it comes to Cobra replicas! A couple of comments echoing somethings you've already heard:


Power steering is a must for street car. Check out Forte's setup. I also know someone who did electric and it worked out great.
Definitely do the mechanical yourself. That's part of the experience.
347 is a great option, but why not a 408 or 427? Those engines might bring more low end torque and appeal down the road when selling. The Blueprint engine/tko packages are nice.
Never had any issues with the FFR Satin black powder coated frame. $700 is a gift. You'll have enough to do without having to cart that frame around to a powder coating facility. It's not cheap to have done 3rd party. You'll pay over $600 just to have your panels powdercoated.
Breeze mirror will be one of your best investments. They come black anodized and are really nice.
The Forte mechanical throttle linkage is also a huge upgrade over the cable.
Just a thought. Although the MK5 is the state of the art offering, if you don't need its additional features for driver height, etc., or can pick and choose from aftermarket, you can save $5K with the MKIV while it's still being offered. That's a lot of cheese you can add back towards the engine and tranny.


Whichever options you decide, good luck on your build!

[Jeff Kleiner]

Welcome!

Sounds like you are already committed to building a Mk5 which I fully support. FFR had me consult with them during development and then enlisted me as a Beta builder. I can say that the Mk4 is a fantastic car but even at that the 5 is better by an order of magnitude...the chassis design, cockpit room, the body, ease of build are all improved.

Yes, you want hydraulic power steering; as has been said here hundreds of times it not for steering ease so much as allowing the car to be aligned such that it drives so much better on the road. Note that I specifically said hydraulic power steering---the cars that I've driven with the electric systems have not want to self center even with tons of positive caster and proper toe in. Along the same line consider the newly available remote power brake system which can be used in conjunction with the Wilwood pedals therefore retaining the balance bar and the ability to tune the front/rear bias.

1) Can't speak to the new pipes since I don't have my Mk5 running yet.

2) I've had the FFR powder coating on every car I've built and have been satisfied with it. Three of those cars were 12-15 year old "barn finds" when they came to me and the PC was still 100% intact. I have customer cars that I've built that have been on the road since 2012 and the PC still looks like new. I can say the same for the coating on my old Mk3 that was 17 years on the road when I sold it last year. If you want another color or simply won't be content with some weld splatter (which will be pretty much unseen when the car is fully assembled) then sure, you'll need to have it done elsewhere.

3) FFR offers 15" rim compatible rear brakes for the IRS; #60780. See my comment above about the newly available power assist.

4) I always order the cutouts from FFR. They'll need to be massaged anyway but it provides a good starting point for cheap money.

5) The Breeze mirrors are functional and unobtrusive. Raydots mount to the windshield post, not the body.

6) Yes, if you're painting the scoop no reason to get the CF one.

7) I'd hold off on fuel system until you know the requirements that your particular setup requires.

Good luck with your project!

Jeff

[Infinitybox]

Good luck and sounds like a great build! Let us know if you would enjoy considering our Infinitybox system. We have done many with the group, and all have enjoyed the ease and dependability!

www.infinitybox.com

https://www.infinitybox.com/cars/finished-factory-five-cobra/

[Papa]

There isn't much to add that hasn't already been discussed, but I'll throw some thoughts on the fuel system at you. I originally thought the fuel system was going to be difficult to figure out, but that was far from the reality. I ordered a complete kit and didn't use any of the fuel system parts on my car except for the fuel tank and sender. My car had a simple FAST EFI that was shipped with my Blueprint 347. I later called Gordon Levy and he shipped me a complete system that included a fuel pump and hanger, push-lock fittings and hose, and a filter. I could have easily sourced everything for a lot less money, but the system got me running. Fast forward a couple of years and I decided to upgrade to an Inglese stack EFI system after experiencing a fuel pump failure due to contamination in the system from an unknown source. I replaced the entire fuel system at the time I installed the stacks. I bought the Pro-M hanger, new Walbro pump, Holley filter, mix of NiCop and braided lines and fittings for less than what I paid for the system the first time around and it looks a lot better than the original setup.

My point is, it isn't hard to piece together a fuel system and doing it yourself will get you what you want for less cash.

Dave

[rponfick]

Not sure what budget constraints you have but I have two comments:
Since you are not going to track car, I have had solid axle 3.1, and current IRS Mk4, and I have to say I cannot tell the difference and would not spend the extra on the IRS.
Likewise, the Wilwood brakes, they look flashy, but are they necessary for your usage? Note Eric Treves Mk5 build where he went with regular FFR brakes.
I have the Wilwoods on my current Mk4, but not sure I would pay extra again, as I am placing standard brakes on my Mk5 that just came last week. I went with the optional FFR mounted tires on their 15" wheels.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Ralph

Woops, just noticed your comment that cost was least important, so my comments may not be helpful. But still do not think many advantages for stated usage.

[dalves]

347 is a great option, but why not a 408 or 427? Those engines might bring more low end torque and appeal down the road when selling. The Blueprint engine/tko packages are nice.

I go back and forth, but I'm cautious about being lured by the big displacement and horsepower numbers when really I'm never going to be driving at the limit anyway. Even when you look at how much faster the car would be on a freeway onramp, I don't think there would be much difference -- I suspect you're limited by tires (especially if I stick with 15" wheels!) and shifting rather than by power at those speeds. I've only ridden in a 347 roadster though, never a 427, so maybe I don't know what I'm missing out on?




Just a thought. Although the MK5 is the state of the art offering, if you don't need its additional features for driver height, etc., or can pick and choose from aftermarket, you can save $5K with the MKIV while it's still being offered. That's a lot of cheese you can add back towards the engine and tranny.

I don't mind the extra cost and I'm 6'3", so MK5 is definitely the way to go for me. :)

[cv2065]

I go back and forth, but I'm cautious about being lured by the big displacement and horsepower numbers when really I'm never going to be driving at the limit anyway. Even when you look at how much faster the car would be on a freeway onramp, I don't think there would be much difference -- I suspect you're limited by tires (especially if I stick with 15" wheels!) and shifting rather than by power at those speeds. I've only ridden in a 347 roadster though, never a 427, so maybe I don't know what I'm missing out on?




I don't mind the extra cost and I'm 6'3", so MK5 is definitely the way to go for me. :)

6'3"? MKV will definitely be the better choice! :cool:

[rich grsc]

I go back and forth, but I'm cautious about being lured by the big displacement and horsepower numbers when really I'm never going to be driving at the limit anyway. Even when you look at how much faster the car would be on a freeway onramp, I don't think there would be much difference -- I suspect you're limited by tires (especially if I stick with 15" wheels!) and shifting rather than by power at those speeds. I've only ridden in a 347 roadster though, never a 427, so maybe I don't know what I'm missing out on?
You aren't missing out on anything. I've been around these cars for 20 yrs, all of mine have been SBF, from a stock 5.0 to a 331 stock injected. I would never do anything else, easier to install and work around , and if setup correctly the lighter weight will handle better, and can still embarrass a big block. The "427" is just a bragging thing.

[Mike.Bray]

You aren't missing out on anything. I've been around these cars for 20 yrs, all of mine have been SBF, from a stock 5.0 to a 331 stock injected. I would never do anything else, easier to install and work around , and if setup correctly the lighter weight will handle better, and can still embarrass a big block. The "427" is just a bragging thing.

Have to agree. I've got a 393W with 550 HP and honestly it's too much torque. Looking at data logs it's surprising (embarrassing?) how seldom I'm above 15-20% throttle.

[gbranham]

I have to agree with Rich and Mike. I've only logged a few miles with my 427, and I can tell it's a monster. I can't imagine I'll ever use all that power. I'm okay with that though. My first build was a 302 with around 325hp, and I could handle all of it, but quickly wanted a bit more. I'm glad I built mine with a 427, but if I build a third, it'll be based on a 302 block, be it Dart or Boss, etc.

[CraigS]

I like cubic inches. I went from a 400hp 351 to a 450(?) 408 and was very happy w/ it. When building the 408 short block I told CompCams that I wanted to be able to drive at 1300 in 5th gear. I got that and the cam could maybe have been a step wilder. But the engine was perfect and every bit as smooth and easy to drive as my wife's 2015 Mustang GT. So when you look at 347s or 331s just don't go for the big HP#s. Also consider a 351. Reason is a 351 based engine requires a different intake and headers, so, if you start there, you can always upgrade the engine later like I did to a 408 or a 427 w/o needing to change intake and headers.

[JJK]

For reference, I have a BPE 347 which dyno'd at 426hp. It is plenty of power for a 2200lb street car, imo.

[rich grsc]

You don't need 408 to drive at 1500 in 5th gear, my 331 is happy there

[GoDadGo]

Welcome Aboard & Good Luck!

[CraigS]

You don't need 408 to drive at 1500 in 5th gear, my 331 is happy there

rich I didn't mean to imply that you do need a 408. That was just what I happened to be doing when I got to select a cam.

[rich grsc]

I gotcha Craig. :) I just like my 331, I hit the right combo, pulls like a freight train. Always impressed at how smooth and predictable it is.