Diode?

[cv2065]

I have a billet button controlling my hazard switch. When pressed, the button works great. The issue that I’m having is that the button LED is lit constantly. The button is wired to a relay, so I’m thinking that I’m getting a little bleed back to the button from the relay which is illuminations the LED, even when it is off. The button is a 5A switch.

I tried putting a blocking diode in-between the switch and relay. It did suppress the back flow and the switch no longer illuminates, but the switch doesn’t work now.

Not an electrical guru. Anyone know what might be the issue? The diode is 15A/45W. Do I need a bigger or different type of diode?

Thanks!

[Nigel Allen]

It will be a wiring configuration issue. Can you draw a sketch of what the current set up is, send a pic and I can take a look.

Cheers,
Nige

[cv2065]

It will be a wiring configuration issue. Can you draw a sketch of what the current set up is, send a pic and I can take a look.

Cheers,
Nige

Thanks Nigel! Here's a diagram.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/bf5eec96-0a24-4e5f-8832-edd0a2bf405b.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/bf5eec96-0a24-4e5f-8832-edd0a2bf405b.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[Blitzboy54]

The first thing is did you put the diode in backwards? The other thing here is you may have over engineered this a bit. You don’t actually need a relay to make it work. It’s fine to use one but what I did was tied the pink to one side of the switch then spliced the other side of the switch to both the blue and green hazard wire with a diode in between each wire. So two diodes off the switch with one going to the blue and the other the green. I can sketch out a drawing tomorrow. I also have a picture. Super simple and works without any hang ups. My button only lights up when I turn the headlights on.

Edit** I made a sketch. This way the pink 12v goes to both the left and right to create 4 way hazards but when you use your turn signals 12v from one side doesn't travel over to the other. Without the diodes you would have 4 way hazards every time you used the turn signals. It's simple but effective.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212518&d=1744372951

[Nigel Allen]

Nice sketch! The issue I see is that both sides of the relay coil are connected to a positive.

Jesse's solution is nice and simple. I would go with that.
Either use inline diodes say 10amps, or use a bridge rectifier assembly if you prefer the diodes to be solidly mounted.

Cheers,
Nige

[cv2065]

Thanks for the feedback. Seems like I've over complicated a few things along the way. Electrical just isn't my jam! :p I'm installing Frank's turn signal switch so I followed the hazard wiring instructions from there. At this point, it will be simple enough just to add the diode vs. ripping it out. I'm using this diode here:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NS63XJH?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Is this the correct one to use? As mentioned, the button no longer lights up, so the feedback part is working but doesn't seem to be allowing power through to the relay.

[OB6]

I assume you're using Frank's turn signal switch? What did you choose to use the side pull-out switch for? I'm using it for hazards.

[Blitzboy54]

I assume you're using Frank's turn signal switch? What did you choose to use the side pull-out switch for? I'm using it for hazards.

I know your asking Chad but I used it for high beams. Incidentally it worked great until I changed my steering wheel. Access is now limited to the point of maybe not being functional. I am going to try and modify the pull switch handle itself first. If not I may need to retrofit my high beam arrangement.

[M22_COBRA]

I'm about at this same point and have the same latching billet buttons with a LED in them. I too purchased 30A relays as it implied that over 30A power source could damage and overload the LED? Sounds like this not true and I can return the relays. What would be the purpose of the relays?

[cv2065]

I know your asking Chad but I used it for high beams. Incidentally it worked great until I changed my steering wheel. Access is now limited to the point of maybe not being functional. I am going to try and modify the pull switch handle itself first. If not I may need to retrofit my high beam arrangement.

I have a separate button for high beams and hazards. I'm using Frank's setup for just turns and horn.

[cv2065]

I'm about at this same point and have the same latching billet buttons with a LED in them. I too purchased 30A relays as it implied that over 30A power source could damage and overload the LED? Sounds like this not true and I can return the relays. What would be the purpose of the relays?

The LED button is only 5A, so you would 'think' that you would need a relay. I found that not to be true for the fan override so I took it out. I followed a different diagram for the hazards but looks like I could have done the same for the Hazard switch. I do have a relay for the push button starter as I'm pretty sure that one needs it unless you go with a third party option like Guard Dawg.

[dbo_texas]

Here's how mine is wired. I wired it like shown in the main diagram so that my button flashes with the flashers when turned ON (note: the "ALTERNATE" version I'm showing keeps the button light on constantly when its "ON" instead of flashing). I used 5A/60V diodes on the green and cyan turn signal wires to prevent back feeding. The specific pins for my billet button are also shown in one of the boxes. Basically the pink hazard flasher wire is used to provide power to both the relay coil (pin 86) and the relay device power (pin 30) AND the button LED. At the billet switch, when you push the button, the purple wire connects to the orange wire (closing the relay trigger to ground) but it also sends power to the button LED (white wire). Red wire is the LED (-) connected to ground. Relay pin 85 also connected to ground.

I'm not electrical expert but my hazards are one of the circuits that worked 1st try for me.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212532&d=1744397090

[FDLWproject]

The first thing is did you put the diode in backwards? The other thing here is you may have over engineered this a bit. You don’t actually need a relay to make it work. It’s fine to use one but what I did was tied the pink to one side of the switch then spliced the other side of the switch to both the blue and green hazard wire with a diode in between each wire. So two diodes off the switch with one going to the blue and the other the green. I can sketch out a drawing tomorrow. I also have a picture. Super simple and works without any hang ups. My button only lights up when I turn the headlights on.

Edit** I made a sketch. This way the pink 12v goes to both the left and right to create 4 way hazards but when you use your turn signals 12v from one side doesn't travel over to the other. Without the diodes you would have 4 way hazards every time you used the turn signals. It's simple but effective.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212518&d=1744372951

This is exactly what I'm experiencing! I have Frank's turn signal setup + the Billet hazard button. Hazards work great, but turn signal just turns on the hazards. Mind sharing which diodes you used on your billet button wires?

[dbo_texas]

This is exactly what I'm experiencing! I have Frank's turn signal setup + the Billet hazard button. Hazards work great, but turn signal just turns on the hazards. Mind sharing which diodes you used on your billet button wires?

I used these - 5A, 60V which others on the forum recommended to me. So far they are working great --> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XDJGDQP?ref=nav_custrec_signin&ref_=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apin_dp_QGP4JJWWZBB2BD7NNQEM&social_share=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apin_dp_QGP4JJWWZBB2BD 7NNQEM&peakEvent=4&starsLeft=1&skipTwisterOG=1

[Blitzboy54]

This is exactly what I'm experiencing! I have Frank's turn signal setup + the Billet hazard button. Hazards work great, but turn signal just turns on the hazards. Mind sharing which diodes you used on your billet button wires?

I used these. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XDJGDQP?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_1

The diagram you quoted is how I have my push button hazards. I also have Franks turn signal, I wired per his instructions and it works great.

[FDLWproject]

Thanks guys. This worked perfectly.

[cv2065]

I used these. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XDJGDQP?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_1

The diagram you quoted is how I have my push button hazards. I also have Franks turn signal, I wired per his instructions and it works great.

Hey Jessie. I'm going to have to use your diagram as I'm getting feedback in other areas with this relay so I'm going to pull it. Just to clarify, are you referencing the two switching green wires in your diagram going to the pink and two diodes? I'm assuming that you connected the black ground and red wire to the ignition switch or did you leave that disconnected?

[Blitzboy54]

Hey Jessie. I'm going to have to use your diagram as I'm getting feedback in other areas with this relay so I'm going to pull it. Just to clarify, are you referencing the two switching green wires in your diagram going to the pink and two diodes? I'm assuming that you connected the black ground and red wire to the ignition switch or did you leave that disconnected?

I color coded the diagram exactly as wired. The pink is the incoming 12v. Then split the other side of the switch in two. Wire one pigtail to the green (left) and the other to the blue (right) each with a diode in between.

I'm unclear what black and red wires your referring to. The three wires in my diagram are only for the hazards. I know wiring isn't everyone's bag so if you want I am happy to jump on call sometime and talk it out. It might be easier than exchanging forum posts. DM me if you're interested.

[cv2065]

I color coded the diagram exactly as wired. The pink is the incoming 12v. Then split the other side of the switch in two. Wire one pigtail to the green (left) and the other to the blue (right) each with a diode in between.

I'm unclear what black and red wires your referring to. The three wires in my diagram are only for the hazards. I know wiring isn't everyone's bag so if you want I am happy to jump on call sometime and talk it out. It might be easier than exchanging forum posts. DM me if you're interested.

I ripped out my relay and connected back like Jessie's diagram and it worked great. For anyone with the billet buttons, one green switching wire goes to the pink +12V, one green switching wire is combined with the red LED wire and connected to both of the turn signal wires via diodes. This enables the LED on the button to come on only when depressed and it blinks with the hazard lights. Thanks for that Jessie.

[dbo_texas]

I ripped out my relay and connected back like Jessie's diagram and it worked great. For anyone with the billet buttons, one green switching wire goes to the pink +12V, one green switching wire is combined with the red LED wire and connected to both of the turn signal wires via diodes. This enables the LED on the button to come on only when depressed and it blinks with the hazard lights. Thanks for that Jessie.

Just curious - without using relays isn't there a risk of burning out the button switch and/or button LED? I think the 16mm switch is only rated to something like 3A per mfg. website (5A for the larger 22mm button). I suppose if you are running the LED flashers they will be significantly lower power draw vs. the incandescent lamps and this risk is reduced? I kept the relay in my circuit but I did ultimately switch to the Breeze LED exterior lighting kit.

[Blitzboy54]

Just curious - without using relays isn't there a risk of burning out the button switch and/or button LED? I think the 16mm switch is only rated to something like 3A per mfg. website (5A for the larger 22mm button). I suppose if you are running the LED flashers they will be significantly lower power draw vs. the incandescent lamps and this risk is reduced? I kept the relay in my circuit but I did ultimately switch to the Breeze LED exterior lighting kit.

I don't see how. Switch is rated at a minimum of 5A from Billet Button, I used their 16A version. At the end of the day (just my opinion) electrically speaking these cars are pretty simple. More akin to a motorcycle than a modern car. The whole system is pulling off the same 12v (Engine not included) so while there is absolutely no harm in using relays they are not always necessary. Usually relays are reserved for hard draw off/on components like the fan or fuel pump.

The FFR design is to use a hard switch and incandescent lights that draw more current than an LED. This arrangement while more modern looking is essentially the same thing.

[Theshandman]

And while we're on the topic of diodes, etc, I installed an led on the dash that illuminates when the radiator fan is commanded on. Works fine. But- when at speed, the fan windmills and creates a bit of voltage that illuminates the LED from dim to bright depending on how fast the fan spins. Given the RF diagram says the fan fuse is 30a, what kind and value of diode (in line with the fan drive wire?) would be sufficient to prevent the back current from illuminating the LED?

[cv2065]

And while we're on the topic of diodes, etc, I installed an led on the dash that illuminates when the radiator fan is commanded on. Works fine. But- when at speed, the fan windmills and creates a bit of voltage that illuminates the LED from dim to bright depending on how fast the fan spins. Given the RF diagram says the fan fuse is 30a, what kind and value of diode (in line with the fan drive wire?) would be sufficient to prevent the back current from illuminating the LED?

Based on the forum suggestion, I tapped the button into the secondary green Thermo fan wire with no diode. Works great and lights up when the temp sensor kicks the fan on as well.