LS bellhousing too low

[DamnYankee]

Hi Y'all.
Building a Gen 3 Coupe . I ordered the complete Blueprint LS3 and T56 package late last year (note that this is Blueprint's iron block). Got the motor connected and fired, all good.

However, I just dropped the car with wheels/tires on the ground and while setting the ride height I notice that the bellhousing sits 2" below the chassis. So when I set the ride height to 3 3/4" , I only have 1 1/8" under the bellhousing, and 2 1/2" under the oil pan.
So I'm wondering.... do I have the wrong bellhousing, or the wrong motor mounts, or what?
Has anyone come across this before?
I'm waiting to hear back from FFR too.
Thanks.
Ron

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[JimStone]

Hey Ron,

I'm doing a LS/T56 combo but haven't gotten to your stage yet. I did order the QuickTime bellhousing RM-8019 that already has the bottom lip removed for better ground clearance. I believe many (? most) people need to trim the bottom edge of the steel bellhousings. That voids the SFI rating, if that matters to you. The RM-8019 is also not SFI rated.

Maybe Lewma could chime in, because he put the Blueprint LS/T56 package in his Coupe



By the way, I'd love for you to post an update on your build thread. Interested in how all the Formacar modifications are going

[Jim Frahm]

You should be using a corvette low profile oil pan and you will need to cut the lip off of the bellhousing. You may need to raise the motor and trans an 1/8 or 1/4 inch as well. I'm building a MK4 with a TKX trans and I had to raise the engine 1/8" which put the oil pan and bellhousing above the 4" frame tubes.

Ops, I see you're building a coupe and not a roadster so this may or may not apply.

[Alphamacaroon]

Can't comment on the LS, but this is a pretty common problem with the Coyote/Quicktime/T56 combo. And as JimStone mentioned, most of us trim off the bottom edge of the bellhousing— a little scary at first, but I have yet to hear anyone complain about any long-term effects (at least that I'm aware of).

[Its Bruce]

Cut it.

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[lewma]

Hey Ron,

I'm doing a LS/T56 combo but haven't gotten to your stage yet. I did order the QuickTime bellhousing RM-8019 that already has the bottom lip removed for better ground clearance. I believe many (? most) people need to trim the bottom edge of the steel bellhousings. That voids the SFI rating, if that matters to you. The RM-8019 is also not SFI rated.

Maybe Lewma could chime in, because he put the Blueprint LS/T56 package in his Coupe



By the way, I'd love for you to post an update on your build thread. Interested in how all the Formacar modifications are going

Yes, you can see in the pics in my album that the bellhousing sits a little lower than the frame. I'll probably trim it at some point but it has not been an issue so far.
I also swapped out the oil pan with a low profile pan.

[DamnYankee]

Looks like I'm cutting it!!
Still concerned that the oil pan is below the chassis too. Is that normal?
Thanks all

[Jim Frahm]

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12558189
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12624497
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12624617

This is the Pan, windage tray, and oil pickup that I used on my LS. This is the FFR recommended pan for an LS in a Roadster.

[lewma]

Those are the parts I used on my build

[DamnYankee]

So when I ordered the package from Blueprint, I stressed to them that its for a Coupe and needs the correct oil pan. In my opinion, they messed up. I'll contact them now.
thx

[JimStone]

Those are the parts I used on my build

Did you have to modify your windage tray to accommodate the stroker engine (Blueprint LS 427)?

[lewma]

Blueprint already modified the existing windage tray ( with a hammer it seems ). If you do this, don't be surprised to see a bashed up windage tray when you remove the oil pan. According to BluePrint, that's normal.

[JimStone]

Blueprint already modified the existing windage tray ( with a hammer it seems ). If you do this, don't be surprised to see a bashed up windage tray when you remove the oil pan. According to BluePrint, that's normal.

Thanks!

[DamnYankee]

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12558189
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12624497
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12624617

This is the Pan, windage tray, and oil pickup that I used on my LS. This is the FFR recommended pan for an LS in a Roadster.

Jim, Did the dipstick need to be replaced too?

[Jim Frahm]

Jim, Did the dipstick need to be replaced too?

I did replace the dipstick because the motor mount was in the way and I needed a flexible dipstick. I went with one form Lokar. Lokar ED-5019 Flexible Engine Dipstick with Stainless Housing for LS1 Series.

Don't buy a cheap one from Amazon, you'll be sorry you did.

[lewma]

I'm using a Lokar 1220074 ...... from Amazon ;)

[Its Bruce]

I made spacers similar to the link below in order to bring my pan to the same level as the frame tubes while still giving me full thread engagement on the engine mounts. I recognize there's a difference between the roadster and the coupe, so consider this information only.

https://lmr.com/item/SVE-6038SPB-K/mustang-sve-billet-motor-mount-shims-79-04?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwzYLABhD4ARIsALySuCSR_AgAIVQjOP6uAuDt zTQQuqViy2qbgvWRAHRRAjVENCOE3rvE6VwaAv2gEALw_wcB

[DamnYankee]

I made spacers similar to the link below in order to bring my pan to the same level as the frame tubes while still giving me full thread engagement on the engine mounts. I recognize there's a difference between the roadster and the coupe, so consider this information only.

https://lmr.com/item/SVE-6038SPB-K/mustang-sve-billet-motor-mount-shims-79-04?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwzYLABhD4ARIsALySuCSR_AgAIVQjOP6uAuDt zTQQuqViy2qbgvWRAHRRAjVENCOE3rvE6VwaAv2gEALw_wcB

I was thinking the same thing, Thanks

[DamnYankee]

What I went through to fix this... https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?49961-Ron-s-hurricane-build&p=579825&viewfull=1#post579825

[MC Builders]

I am running the same setup as you DamnYankee and I added spacers between the engine block and the FFR Motor Mount adapter plates and then cut the bottom off of the bellbousing. The end result is I am flush with the chassis on both the engine oil pan as well as the bellhousing.