Lokar Flex Dipstick Calibration

[cv2065]

The oil dipstick tube supplied by Roush was too long and couldn't get my headers over it so I could either cut that tube, then cut the same amount off of the dipstick or just go with a flexible one from Lokar (#X1220177). Did the latter and installed nicely, as I can attach to the last header bolt on the driver's side and its completely out of the way and hidden.

To calibrate, I'm doing the following:

1. Oil pan is the Canton 15-690 with a 7-quart capacity, so will fill it with 7 quarts.
3. Pull the Lokar dipstick, measure and mark the level. Cut the dipstick if necessary to match the volume in the pan.
3. Spin the oil pump with the drill for a few minutes to get the oil topside and in the filter without starting
4. Pull the dipstick and fill oil to the full mark.

Does this sound correct?

[narly1]

I went through a similar exercise on my 302 build. My thinking was that no matter what the capacity of the new pan was, the oil needed to be at the same height as it would be with the stock pan on. So I just cut the Lokar dipstick to match the length of the stock one and called it good.

I fill to suit the dipstick, not the pan capacity.

Earl

[rich grsc]

The oil dipstick tube supplied by Roush was too long and couldn't get my headers over it so I could either cut that tube, then cut the same amount off of the dipstick or just go with a flexible one from Lokar (#X1220177). Did the latter and installed nicely, as I can attach to the last header bolt on the driver's side and its completely out of the way and hidden.

To calibrate, I'm doing the following:

1. Oil pan is the Canton 15-690 with a 7-quart capacity, so will fill it with 7 quarts.
3. Pull the Lokar dipstick, measure and mark the level. Cut the dipstick if necessary to match the volume in the pan.
3. Spin the oil pump with the drill for a few minutes to get the oil topside and in the filter without starting
4. Pull the dipstick and fill oil to the full mark.

Does this sound correct?
NO, you don't check the oil right after running. Check the oil after it has drained back

[cv2065]

NO, you don't check the oil right after running. Check the oil after it has drained back

Question Rich. If the engine is running and a quart or so is in the filter, lines, etc., don't I want 7 quarts to still be in the pan? What is the difference if I'm checking it cold versus checking it again after its run back into the pan?

[cv2065]

I went through a similar exercise on my 302 build. My thinking was that no matter what the capacity of the new pan was, the oil needed to be at the same height as it would be with the stock pan on. So I just cut the Lokar dipstick to match the length of the stock one and called it good.

I fill to suit the dipstick, not the pan capacity.

Earl

I definitely could do that Earl. I have the original dipstick. Being that this is an aftermarket pan versus what Roush typically puts on their engines, I wanted to double check the length of that dipstick as well, so figured I would just start over.

[Mike.Bray]

Most oil pan capacity specs do not allow for the filter so you have to add for that.

[cv2065]

Most oil pan capacity specs do not allow for the filter so you have to add for that.

Found this from Canton which confirms Rich's instructions.

"When using our dipsticks, calibration is required. You will need to install the dipstick, add the recommended oil capacity, run the engine and then let it cool. Once cooled, pull the dipstick out. For part #20-850, if the oil level is below the full-line, you will need to trim the tube until the oil level is even with the full-line. If it is over the full line at the original length, you will need to mark a new full line on the dipstick. For our braided dipstick part #20-854, if the oil level is below the full-line, you will need to mark a new full-line on the dipstick. If the oil level is over the full-line, you will need to trim the dipstick from the top until the oil level is even with the full-line. You can do this by removing the dipstick stick from the handle by loosening the allen head set screw, removing the stick, cutting, then reinstalling on the handle and re-tightening the set screw."

[tnt_motorsports]

I think what Rich is trying to say is you don't want to check the oil right after you crank. You want it to run back to the pan or you will be overfilled. Yes there will be some in the filter and other parts of the engine that won't drain back.

[cv2065]

I think what Rich is trying to say is you don't want to check the oil right after you crank. You want it to run back to the pan or you will be overfilled. Yes there will be some in the filter and other parts of the engine that won't drain back.

I got it thanks. That makes sense.