Engine coolant reservoir for GEN 4 coyote

[ThickCobra]

I have recently purchased a Ford OEM engine coolant reservoir compatible with 2015 to 2020 Ford Mustangs. It looks like a turtle. I’m told I also need 2 additional hoses to connect to it. Does someone have those hose part numbers?

[Blitzboy54]

You need 3 actually. You can buy the individual hoses from Ford. One has a check valve. It’s pretty well documented if you search. I purchased these from Mishimoto

https://www.ebay.com/itm/325685734685?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=S9uH2H_tR16&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Lqpb73nRQ0C&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY


Here is a link to a diagram explaining how the OEM expansion tank works.

https://www.diyford.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/SA380_FULLBOOK_FordCoyote_Page_106_Image_0002.jpg

[edwardb]

I used the Moroso tank on two Coyote, like a bunch of other builders. Works great. As mentioned, get the proper hoses including the one with the check valve. https://www.moroso.com/coolant-expansion-tank63806/?srsltid=AfmBOoq1mkXPRv114b_M2WN0EiL6v8lChtdsGZ91C-_c8msmajLumCnA

[ThickCobra]

Thanks for the quick reply. Can you tell me whether one of the hoses includes a check valve. I scoured, information online and it’s sold through either eBay directly from Mishimoto or Amazon. But again not a lot of detail. Thanks in advance.

[cdurbin328]

Thanks for the quick reply. Can you tell me whether one of the hoses includes a check valve. I scoured, information online and it’s sold through either eBay directly from Mishimoto or Amazon. But again not a lot of detail. Thanks in advance.

The check valve is internal to the hose. It comes with it.

[Blitzboy54]

The check valve is internal to the hose. It comes with it.

Yep what he said, sorry I should have been more clear about that.

I like the Mishimoto kit because it has everything in one place, is silicone (which looks nice) and comes in a variety of colors. You can order the OEM parts but I think you will spend about the same (this is is guess on my part)

[topherchrisb]

I bought this hose kit (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYMZCIT?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_6&th=1) off of amazon and it does have the three hoses and the check valve. It worked really well for me. I used the UPR tank and got it off amazon but the link for it no longer works. It's the same format as the moroso tank I'm pretty sure. I found this link (https://www.lethalperformance.com/upr-coolant-expansion-tank-black-aluminum-2015-2023-mustang-gt-5026-05.html?srsltid=AfmBOoon_Y9SrHr0uAamYTLZ2PAcsrnLAl aJkobp4cGifNh6-E6V-cV6_iQ&gQT=2) for it on lethal performance.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208686&d=1736216143

Couple of other things... I used this hose (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CZ73CSKF?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_4&th=1) for my upper from the coyote to radiator and it's almost a perfect fit. Just trimmed the 90 off on the opposite side of the quick connect. Also I got this barb fitting (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C4B871LK?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_5&th=1) for the venting from the tank back to the radiator.

[cdurbin328]

Something else to consider...
I noticed my temp guage was 10-15 degrees off from what my OBD2 reader was showing. To correct this I moved the temp sending unit from the side of the motor (FFR instructed location) up to the elbow fitting on top. I removed the pressed in nipple and tapped the hole. Then installed a 90 degree fitting to run the hose straight to the coolant reservoir. There was enough room on the elbow to drill and tap a mounting hole for the temp senser. Now my temp gauge is dead on what the OBD2 reader is showing.

Note:
I have a Gen 2 Coyote in my build so this my not apply to a Gen 4.

211401

[dbo_texas]

Sharing my details here as well - listed out all the hose part numbers and where they go. I went with the Mishimoto expansion tank - I liked it better than the Moroso tank because it has a sight tube on the side so you can see the coolant level. Also went with the Mishimoto hose kit because I couldn't source several of the OEM Ford hoses (after weeks and weeks of searching). The Mishimoto hoses are great quality and fit perfectly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-137)&p=565048&viewfull=1#post565048

[edwardb]

Something else to consider...
I noticed my temp guage was 10-15 degrees off from what my OBD2 reader was showing. To correct this I moved the temp sending unit from the side of the motor (FFR instructed location) up to the elbow fitting on top. I removed the pressed in nipple and tapped the hole. Then installed a 90 degree fitting to run the hose straight to the coolant reservoir. There was enough room on the elbow to drill and tap a mounting hole for the temp senser. Now my temp gauge is dead on what the OBD2 reader is showing.

Note:
I have a Gen 2 Coyote in my build so this my not apply to a Gen 4.

Nothing wrong with what you did. But for the record, the engine temp reading showing in the ODB2 data stream for the Coyote is not coolant temp. I posted this a few years ago:

The answer is a little mixed. I'm at 1100+ miles on my Gen 2 Coyote. I agree with MisterAdam's experience. That is if you're monitoring the water temp at the Factory Five instructed port location, e.g. on the LH side of the engine at the front. I did about 50 miles last night and a lot of stop and go driving (Woodward Dream Cruise time in Detroit!). Outside temp was around 90 F. Highest I saw the water temp was about 85 C (about 185 F).

But the rest of the story is that sensor location, IMO, gives a slightly false reading. Of course I can't tell for sure without taking things apart. But just based on location I'm guessing that it's in the path of the return coolant from the radiator. Which might explain why it seems to indicate a somewhat lower temp.

The Coyote actually doesn't have a factory water temp sensor. Instead Ford uses a cylinder head temperature (CHT) sensor and infers water temp. It just so happens that I'm running an nGAUGE on my dash right now watching six different readings from the engine computer. One of them is CHT. That reading is almost always in the upper 190's. Including last night. I haven't seen it yet over 200 F. From everything I can tell, this is typical and a normal operating temp for the Coyote.

[cdurbin328]

Nothing wrong with what you did. But for the record, the engine temp reading showing in the ODB2 data stream for the Coyote is not coolant temp. I posted this a few years ago:

The answer is a little mixed. I'm at 1100+ miles on my Gen 2 Coyote. I agree with MisterAdam's experience. That is if you're monitoring the water temp at the Factory Five instructed port location, e.g. on the LH side of the engine at the front. I did about 50 miles last night and a lot of stop and go driving (Woodward Dream Cruise time in Detroit!). Outside temp was around 90 F. Highest I saw the water temp was about 85 C (about 185 F).

But the rest of the story is that sensor location, IMO, gives a slightly false reading. Of course I can't tell for sure without taking things apart. But just based on location I'm guessing that it's in the path of the return coolant from the radiator. Which might explain why it seems to indicate a somewhat lower temp.

The Coyote actually doesn't have a factory water temp sensor. Instead Ford uses a cylinder head temperature (CHT) sensor and infers water temp. It just so happens that I'm running an nGAUGE on my dash right now watching six different readings from the engine computer. One of them is CHT. That reading is almost always in the upper 190's. Including last night. I haven't seen it yet over 200 F. From everything I can tell, this is typical and a normal operating temp for the Coyote.


Understood and appreciate the info. I had read most of what you mentioned before making the change. The past summer, in heavy traffic with a temperature of mid 90's outside, it never got higher than 185.
185 is where it typically stays all year around. Of course I've only put about 1100 miles on the car since I finished my build at the end of 2023. So far I haven't had any issues.