Sidepipe Cutouts

[TTimmy]

I swore to myself that I would not post any questions about sidepipe cutouts given the number of threads covering this topic. That said, my position has evolved a bit. I think anyone building a roadster should be allowed at least one post on this topic. The car is an early Mk3 with a 302 and FFR (I think) four into four headers and side pipes.

My primary concern relates to the gap required on the front side of the pipes, particularly the passenger side. With the current engine position it would be necessary to cut into the wheel flair.

I have loosened the engine mounts on both the engine and the frame. I have also loosened the transmission mounts. I run into resistance due to the pin on the PS engine mount. It prevents me from pushing the PS any further back.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210678&d=1740195612

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210676&d=1740195612

My current plan of action is to grind out the engine mount alignment/pin hole and bolt slot on the frame where it is marked with the silver sharpie. This will let me shift the PS of the engine a bit further back. I hope that a little more space here will give me what I need on the body. I am looking for validation that this is a sound plan or perhaps you can share some other ideas.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210680&d=1740195612

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210677&d=1740195612

[Jeff Kleiner]

Before going farther try to shift the tail of the trans over to the driver’s side. This will bring the front of the passenger side pipe rearward and forward on the driver’s side. I won’t take much movement to make a noticeable change.

Jeff

[TTimmy]

Before going farther try to shift the tail of the trans over to the driver’s side. This will bring the front of the passenger side pipe rearward and forward on the driver’s side. I won’t take much movement to make a noticeable change.

Jeff

Jeff,
I tried pulling the trans to the driver side but it seems the alignment pin on the engine mount wins that battle. I used a 2x4 to really make sure I was getting all I could. I even tried lowering the PS engine position to get the maximum movement out of the space between the alignment pin and the hole in which it rests. This has me a bit puzzled as I don’t see others having this same issue and I wonder if I am missing something.

I don’t really want to get in there and start grinding for many reasons. It looks to be a real PITA with lifting the engine up, limited work space etc!

[rich grsc]

Looks to me like you already cut out the top of the frame motor mount on the driver side? If so pull the engine and repair that. Then take a large hammer and hit the top of the passenger side mount at the top, a couple of blows will move it back about 1/8".
Or just cut 1/8" off the body.

[TTimmy]

Looks to me like you already cut out the top of the frame motor mount on the driver side? If so pull the engine and repair that. Then take a large hammer and hit the top of the passenger side mount at the top, a couple of blows will move it back about 1/8".
Or just cut 1/8" off the body.

I have not cut anything yet. The DS frame is slotted and open at the top. That is the way it came to me. There is a silver sharpie mark at the top that resembles a cut.

The message I am hearing is to avoid cutting the mounts and keep trying to force it back. I'll give it another go.

[CraigS]

I agree w/ Rich, did you already do your plan to the driver side? Maybe the driver side moved within the original allowance built into the slot and hole in the frame but it sure looks like the nut had previously been tightened in a position forward of where it is now. If this is the case, it helped align the driver side pipe better w/ the body cutout but hurt the passenger side. One other area you may be able to get some movement would be loosening the mount to the block bolts on both sides. The holes in the mount are certainly oversized compared to the bolt diameter, so maybe a bit of slop here and a bit there, and your 2x4 at the trans, could get some pipe to body clearance.

[rich grsc]

Well the driver side is definitely not like that from the factory, and the engine mount bolt is loose or too long? Like Craig suggested you might get enough movement by have the bolts loose and then try moving the back of the tranny?

[TTimmy]

All the nuts and bolts are currently loose in the photos... mount to engine and mount to frame. These had all been tightened previously. I have not cut or trimmed anything yet.

Heading out to the shop to give it another go!

Thanks for the input guys!

[Redstang69]

Is the body locked down? If not, you may be able to move the body position on the frame to help correct the issue.

[TTimmy]

So this is where I landed so far. I had to grind a bit on the trans support in order to get more movement to the DS. Imbibed with the elephant ear I have a bit more clearance.

Do not have enough clearance on the front and rear of each side? I think more is needed on the DS to to compensate for engine movement.

210915

210917

210916

[rich grsc]

That looks just fine. If you have 1/4" or more it's good