Current Assembled Louver Options?

[Doc76]

Looking to make my side louvers removable for serviceability. I currently have the standard kit one's that come flat and are siliconed on that will no doubt be ruined removing them. No shortage of silicone was used ;)
I like the Velcro option I see mentioned in older threads.
Are current preassembled louver options from providers all about the same comparatively speaking?
The FFR ones I am looking at are these ones:

https://www.factoryfiveparts.com/15659-assembled-side-louver-set/

Thank you in advanced :o

[AC Bill]

Back when I was building my roadster, one method for attaching the vents, which also allowed the option of being able to remove them easily, was to epoxy glue or use a dab of resin on the inside of the fender to which the head of screws would be adhered. Holes were drilled in the flange of the vent louvers, and held in place with nuts.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=98962&d=1544835019
Link to picture
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=98962&d=1544835019

[JohnK]

Check out Edwardb's roadster build thread. He bonded studs to the inside of the body with HSRF, and then added L brackets to the louvers. I stole his idea and it worked perfectly, but he documents it far better than me in his build thread.

[ggunter]

You can easily remove the louvers with a guitar string. The really fine ones. Just push it through the silicone, hold both ends with a short piece of dowel and pull the string around the circumference. No damage.

[AC Bill]

Another example using a similar method. Note with both of the examples pictured in this and the previous post, the fender vents used did not have a flange of their own, so one was made for the top/bottom of them, and attached to the vents with various methods. One used screws/nuts to hold the flanges to the vent, the one below looks like they were epoxied on. I imagine rivets may be another option.

If you chose to use the FFR flat type aluminum vents, they have enough of a flange top and bottom, you could avoid having to make the attachment flange's. I have the standard flat FFR vents on my car, painted to match the body, and they look pretty good in my opinion.

http://https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105648&d=1555204250

210421

[Scott Zackowski]

Check out Edwardb's roadster build thread. He bonded studs to the inside of the body with HSRF, and then added L brackets to the louvers. I stole his idea and it worked perfectly, but he documents it far better than me in his build thread.

I followed basically Edwards's approach but bonded the studs to the fiberglass with JB Weld. Rough up the fiberglass and use plenty of the JB Weld. You will have to fiddle with the L brackets to ensure the louvers are flush with the body. Also I discovered that my factory cut openings were different sizes on each side. I evened them up so that the amount of louver exposed was somewhat equal.

[Doc76]

I followed basically Edwards's approach but bonded the studs to the fiberglass with JB Weld. Rough up the fiberglass and use plenty of the JB Weld. You will have to fiddle with the L brackets to ensure the louvers are flush with the body. Also I discovered that my factory cut openings were different sizes on each side. I evened them up so that the amount of louver exposed was somewhat equal.

If you are using the preassembled ones, do you recall if the angle of the hole (vertical edges) were pretty close to the angle of the louvers?
Just curious if this is an upgrade Ill be waiting to do when I repaint (due to needing to adjust the cutout) or something Ill be able to pluck away at before then.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Can't give you the dimensions vs your picture but the vent looks exactly the same as mine & the price was similar. I used L brackets bolted to the vent & Velcro to mount them to the car.

Picture in other vent thread.

[Jeff Kleiner]

If you are using the preassembled ones, do you recall if the angle of the hole (vertical edges) were pretty close to the angle of the louvers?
Just curious if this is an upgrade Ill be waiting to do when I repaint (due to needing to adjust the cutout) or something Ill be able to pluck away at before then.

The assembled louvers are a different size and angle and have a different radius in the corners than the FFR body cutouts. You can put them in without modifying the openings but they don't really match.

Here's one marked up prior to revising the cutout:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210434&d=1532359532

And finished:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210435&d=1709000253

Jeff

[TTimmy]

FFR has them on sale for Valentine’s Day. Seriously, they are having a Valentine’s Day sale.

I just got a set for my wife. Also got her some floor mats and a steering wheel since they were on special too.

She sure did get lucky finding me!

[Doc76]

The assembled louvers are a different size and angle and have a different radius in the corners than the FFR body cutouts. You can put them in without modifying the openings but they don't really match.

Here's one marked up prior to revising the cutout:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210434&d=1532359532

And finished:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210435&d=1709000253

Jeff

Thanks Jeff
I ordered a set today. In past threads I see reference to some elevator bolts being bonded to the body to secure these due to these being a little heavier. On Macmaster Carr, I only see solid-head. No mesh-head elevator bolts but its entirely possible that its my search criteria.
Is that your preferred method to install these and if so do you happen to have a part number to reference?

[BUDFIVE]

Doc76,
Check 97590A569 on McMaster. That’s the stud referenced in edwardb’s build mentioned above. I ordered some this week and they’re still available.

[Papa]

I documented this in my build thread:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?24916-Papa-s-MKIV-Roadster-Build-9115-(Post-Grad)-One-million-views!!!&p=339267&viewfull=1#post339267

I used HSRF to bond the posts to the body.

[Lidodrip]

I also used bonded posts. In addition to McMaster, you can order undermount sink clips from Amazon which have the bolts. Just don't order the stainless steel ones because they don't play nicely with aluminum.

James

[Doc76]

Check 97590A569 on McMaster. That’s the stud referenced in edwardb’s build mentioned above. I ordered some this week and they’re still available.

Done
thanks

[gbranham]

I just ordered a set from FFR, and I gotta say...$33 to ship to the middle of the country is pretty egregious. Oh well.

Greg

[OB6]

The assembled louvers are a different size and angle and have a different radius in the corners than the FFR body cutouts. You can put them in without modifying the openings but they don't really match.

Jeff

I didn't know this, and yet another reason I'll leave the cutouts to you.

[TTimmy]

I just ordered a set from FFR, and I gotta say...$33 to ship to the middle of the country is pretty egregious. Oh well.

Greg

Call them anytime the shipping is out of line as they will usually work out something reasonable.

[Doc76]

I just ordered a set from FFR, and I gotta say...$33 to ship to the middle of the country is pretty egregious. Oh well.

Greg

Consider yourself lucky.
I’m on the west coast of Canada. For those that may wonder why I seem to over analyze, by the time we pay conversion, shipping, import duty and taxes, it can double the price of the parts. I ordered a rear disc conversion kit and by the time the smoke cleared, that $700 USD kit was ~$1300 CAD
Another example, I ordered a set of pipe heat sheilds (different vendor). By the time the smoke cleared, the $350 USD set I was into them for almost $700 CAD.

Not to mention I just received import fees from FedEx from packages shipped by FFR. I got the parts last Sept and just got the shipping bill now. And here I thought FFR was doing something different that helped save on shipping. That was a crappy surprise.

Or how about those elevator bolts for mounting the louvers? Macmaster Carr, ships from just across the board from me. The 8 bolts are $18 and costs $29 to ship them. They do not allow pickups so I have to pay $29 to ship from 1 hrs drive away :rolleyes: if I want that mounting method.

Now Speedway on the other hand has had outstanding customer service. I receive items within 3 days and if there’s an issue, they rush out the parts at their cost, no questions.
Ahhhh…first-world problems!

Now that’s crazy!

[Doc76]

Check 97590A569 on McMaster. That’s the stud referenced in edwardb’s build mentioned above. I ordered some this week and they’re still available.
Thanks appreciate it very much
Weird frequently their search criteria using part description doesn’t work unless I have the specific part number.

[gbranham]

Call them anytime the shipping is out of line as they will usually work out something reasonable.

Or how about they charge me something reasonable the first time? The more I think about this, the more it irritates me. Feels like Rock Auto shipping prices, where their margins are higher on shipping than the actual product. No way to treat loyal customers.

Ok, I'll shut up now.

[Mike.Bray]

On a different rant, eBay. I used to use them a lot but haven't in quite awhile, had better luck on FB Marketplace. Recently I sold a couple of items on eBay, nothing huge, just a few hundred dollars. But this is what eBay has become.

Sold a Weber intake manifold for $250 plus $30 shipping, $280 total.

eBay takes the sales price plus shipping plus sales tax for a total of $303 ad calculates their 13.6% fee on this.

Payout is $238 on a $280 sale.

And the best part is eBay holds the funds after the buyer has paid until the item is received and the buyer says it's okay. Then, and this is the best part, one or two days after the buyer gives the okay eBay transfers the funds which of course takes 2-3 days to hit my account. On this transaction they buyer paid Sunday night, received the part on Wednesday, but I won't see my funds until Saturday.
Obviously they're just playing accounting games to hold and sit on money.

eBay may give a larger target but it's very expensive to use these days. I'm sticking to Marketplace.

End of my rant lol

[Wingman06]

I took the Fin***line louvers and a strip of 3/4" heavy velcro. Use the light weight (35lb.) with the heavy duty adhesive on the back. Now take some 3/4" aluminum angle and affix a strip of that velcro with both sides of the velcro still hooked together. Peel off one side of the velcro adhesive cover and stick it to the angle. Take your louvers and position them where they need to go. Put the angle on the top and bottom of the louver with the still covered velcro adhesive against the body. Mark where the angle rests on the louver and rivet them in place. Now peel off the cover on the adhesive that will go to the body and stick them in place. The instructor at the Motts school has had his on for several years of racing with no issues. If the velcro does get ratty it's easy to peel it off and replace it. Now you can easily pop them out to reach inside to work on stuff. It's much simpler than it sounds. I will get you pictures when they get back from powder coat.

[Doc76]

I took the Fin***line louvers and a strip of 3/4" heavy velcro. Use the light weight (35lb.) with the heavy duty adhesive on the back. Now take some 3/4" aluminum angle and affix a strip of that velcro with both sides of the velcro still hooked together. Peel off one side of the velcro adhesive cover and stick it to the angle. Take your louvers and position them where they need to go. Put the angle on the top and bottom of the louver with the still covered velcro adhesive against the body. Mark where the angle rests on the louver and rivet them in place. Now peel off the cover on the adhesive that will go to the body and stick them in place. The instructor at the Motts school has had his on for several years of racing with no issues. If the velcro does get ratty it's easy to peel it off and replace it. Now you can easily pop them out to reach inside to work on stuff. It's much simpler than it sounds. I will get you pictures when they get back from powder coat.

I really like the idea of tool-less removal as well as wiggle room to move them. Next time you’re near your car, would you mind sending a pic?
I’d like to try the Velcro route before all the work of bonding elevator bolts.

[rich grsc]

Buy 2 sets of louvers and finish both if you use velcro. They may never fall off, or they could in a couple of months. The bonded bolts never fall off the velcro maybe 40% do?

[Wingman06]

Make sure you get the velcro with the HD adhesive or you could lose them