Key Points - Body alignment MK4

[mior6485]

This weekend I installed the body for the first time. I read the manual and countless threads regarding the key areas you want to check for. Here are some points specific to my situation so far:

This is what I did and checked:

1) I did the QJ coupler mod on the rear QJ using 7/16" threaded rod. I used the spacing of the inner area which was noted in the manual, to located the inside nut and washer. I was able to achieve that distance but the seal is completely smashed so I will need to trim the aluminum
2) The front seemed straight forward as I used the single length tube that allows the body slide front to back depending on whats done on the back QJ mounts.
3) The front Left/Right measurement from shock mount to fender edge spacing was good so no need to bend the frame arms.
4) I trimmed the rolled edge of the body, over the dash and back section. there is about a 3/8" gap between the dash and the rolled edge.
5) the door edge is forward of the striker plate by 3/16" on each side. Jeff Kleiner and others mentioned it should be 1/4"
6) The firewall top edge and the back section do not have the bulb seal but there is a nice gap. Also, the body wraps easily under the frame that leads me to believe Im ok on up and down positioning

Here are my current problems:

1) I installed the door hinges and they hit the body when you rotate them, as if your opening the door. I feel the body needs to move forward 1/4"-5/16"
2) The exhaust is from FFR and its the ball/ socket but I see that it does not align to the body cutouts made by FFR. Looks like moving the body forward the said distance will help here too.

Is there any other area I can focus on to help confirm the proper position of the body? I have not tried hood / hood hinge and trunk yet.

210061

210062


Any confirmation of my approach would be greatly appreciated.

thanks again.

[Rebostar]

On the hinges hitting the body, I believe they will untill you locate and install the leather straps to prevent said contact. At least thats what mine did. I also have the body 3/16 forward of the striker mount plate.

On the exhaust I have a 351W based engine with the same ball mounts. I believe the 302W based engine exhaust ball mounts will be about an inch lower. The FFR cut outs were not even close. You wont want those cut to fit untill you go to mount the side pipes. That should be at the last thing you do for the body fitment.

Hope this helps
Happy Trails
Rebostar

PS. Jeff Kliener has several very good posts about these very topics.

210075210076210077210078210079210080210074

[mior6485]

So I been researching best practices for the front end height adjustment and one point I was trying to achieve was having the 1/2-3/4 gap between the body and edge of the 3/4" tubing QJ frame. I have about a 1/4" based on the location FFR cut the grommet holes. I tried using a wood spacer to position so I can trim the grommet holes to accommodate the 3/4" tube mod. After taking the QJ off I tried to lift to place the spacer but its unclear where the spacing is measured from. Is it from the body surface, the surface where the grommets are placed or from the vertical lip of the body? Being unsure I went ahead and placed the hood in place. I find that the coolant cap is hitting the hood and it wont clear even after I cut the hole for the scoop. I feel Im forced now to raise the front and reposition the QJ grommet holes made by FFR. If I raise the front do I not affect the part of the body that tucks under the chassis. Not sure the sequence of things I need to focus on. thanke for the help.

This is the driver side gap. The 3/4" tube is directly under surface where the hood bumpers attach
210161

This the pass side gap. The 3/4" tube is directly under the body surface
210162210163

Right now the spacing between the shock mount and fender lip edge on both sides are perfect but it looks like the hood opening doesnt line up with the frame opening.

The hood is hitting the pass edge of the coolant res cap.
210164

[MPTech]

FYI, I see the Pics from the first 2 posts, but the attachments in the last post are not visible.

BTW, which engine is that (SBF or BBF)? Love the stacks and the Overflow tank!

[Jeff Kleiner]

As Mark said your photos aren't showing up in post #3 but I saw that you posted on FB and they show there.

Here's where you shim to get the nose in the proper position:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132309&d=1593171081

1/2"-5/8" will do and bring the QJ holes into alignment with the chassis. The hood opening does not align with the frame tubes---the hood is not centered on the body. Never has been.

Quite simply, that tank is too high. There isn't enough crown in the hood to allow it to work where you have it and you're going to need to bring it down. As I noted in the FB post your brake/clutch fluid reservoirs are too high also and the caps will contact the perimeter rib of the hood.

As to your original post; 3/16" ahead of the striker mount is fine. Sure, if you swing the door hinges far enough they'll contact the body...that's why there are limit straps! The exhaust cutouts are just a starting point and you won't really know what you have until the sidepipes are on after the body is fully in position with the doors on and adjusted. That will dictate the lower body location and therefore where the pipes need to be to be parallel. The cutouts always have to be "massaged" and how much will depend on what engine, headers and sidepipes you're using.

Good luck!

Jeff

[mior6485]

351W - Dart Block 427

[mior6485]

Thank you guys for the tips and guidance. Was afraid to go down a rabbit hole and make too many changes I may regret once I continue putting things on. Im hoping that raising the nose and using a thinner, cheaper coolant cap may give me a the clearance I need. I can easily lower the reservoirs now that I know that they hit the hood. I may also assemble and install the hood hinges as I recall reading that if the nose isnt high enough the hinge can hit the radiator cross bar. Good to hear that front to back alignment is good. thanks again.

[rich grsc]

Just lay the hood in place. I have the same style de-gas tank and it clears.

[Rebostar]

You may have to lower your FE expnsion tank. Mine fits fine with a 351W based stroker engine. Here is how I modified mine to get it to clear.

210169210170210171210172210173210174210175210176