Front body spacers for the nose

[Valkster]

Hi, all. I have read a handful of posts about using approximately 5/8" thick rubber or wood spacers between the body and where the radiator mount tubes/outriggers starts on each side of the car. This is to support the body/nose and relieve some of the stress at the body where the front quick jack fasteners pass through. Below is a link to one of those posts, to clarify the area and issue I am asking about. I plan to use rubber attached to the 3/4" tubing, similar to the post below. My question is, what does everyone do behind where that rubber gets mounted? I am meaning from the added rubber spacer, back to the firewall. Most of us have a foam strip adhered to the 3/4" tubing now, but that seems to become pointless as the foam strip is shorter than the added rubber/wood at the front. Do you simply double-up on the foam strip, forget about it, or replace it with a foam strip that is a little taller than the spacer added at the nose? Sorry if I have missed something from other posts. I am thinking of getting a taller foam strip but wanted to hear other people thoughts and solutions.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?44910-Body-Spacer-near-Hood-Hinges

Thanks,
Valkster

[JohnK]

5/8" rubber bumpers, and no additional foam for me.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173438&d=1665103032

[CraigS]

I like the idea of the rubber bumpers to help support the body. I would leave them to about the last step. Get the body all aligned, doors fitting, hood fitting etc, and then size the bumpers so they provide 'some' upward pressure.

[MB750]

Are those required? I got my body fitted all right and didn't seem to need them.

[Rebostar]

I used 1/2" high x 3/4" wide X 4" long rubber blocks at the front and 3 each side of 1/2" rubber bumpers along the sides from the firewall. I counterbored the rubber blocks and attached them with SS #6 PK screws then added 2 layers of 1/4" x 3/4" adheisive backed foam seal between all the bumpers. The weight of the body will be on the rubber bumpers and blocks. The adheisive seal is just mostly for an air seal.


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[steno]

I'm curious if FFR fixed this issue on the Mk5?

[Blitzboy54]

As luck would have it, if you stack a large and small kit issued bumper it ends up right at 5/8

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153540&d=1632096153

[Jeff_J.]

Sounds like you read a lot about the reason for the rubber bumpers to support the nose as well a the suggested change to a larger SS tube for the bumper attachment.
I was able to get SS tube from McMaster although there are probably other places, I purchased a 6" x 8" x 5/8" tall block of rubber from Metro Molded Products at the same time as the rubber gromets for the tubes. I trimmed the block to 3/4" x 2.5" and attached it. I attached foam to the top of the 3/4" tube running back to the firewall I'm not convinced it will be effective.
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[Jeff Kleiner]

I'm curious if FFR fixed this issue on the Mk5?

Yes. Totally different front mounting on the 5.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209659&d=1738004013

Jeff

[Valkster]

Thanks to all of you for the input, it helps a bunch. I mocked up a spacer today after work, when I was working on getting the body set correctly for panel fitments. 5/8" at the top of the outriggers puts the quick jacks right where they need to be vertically. I have a small variety of rubber striping laying around that will probably work. I like the idea of adding a little support along the whole length as Rebostar did but not sure how to nail the heights for the most affect, as the gap probably changes along the path to the firewall. Worst case, I'll add at the front only and double-up on the foam behind the rubber pads just to see if it helps with sealing, though I am not sure what I am sealing off from each side as I think about it.

Wow, the MK5 looks a lot different! Some of the initial pictures I saw of the frame during its release looked like it is much more substantial in the front. I look forward to more pictures of the new generation builds.

-Mark

[GoDadGo]

I went in a completely different direction, as usual, and made two (2) body supports.
You can see what I did between 1:27 and 2:00 minutes in the video linked below:

https://youtu.be/V38Jajo_qOQ

I also used the Ram-Horn Brackets and Rubber Bumper Bolt Grommets.
Hope this is of use your or anyone who is building a MK-4 Roadster.

Last Year's "Three (3) Year's Street Legal" Update Video:

https://youtu.be/iwslgKJUaKc

Keep Wrenching & Riveting Because The Outcome Is Worth It!

[Valkster]

Thanks, Steve. I have enjoyed many of your videos and posts over the last few years.

-Valkster

[GoDadGo]

Thanks, Steve. I have enjoyed many of your videos and posts over the last few years.

-Valkster

I love seeing everyone's solutions to the bumps of the builds.
Like the rest of the forum, we look forward to seeing your car as it moves along.
Just remember to walk away when you are frustrated and never throw wrenches because they always damage something when you do.

[Valkster]

Thanks, Steve. Not my first rodeo for building. I have restored my old '83 Jeep Scrambler and my '80 Triumph Spitfire. Both have taught me patience more than anything else I have done, except maybe having kids, lol. No wrench throwing here. Sadly, I am not great with social media, and my involvement with our family business has been a reason, and sometimes an excuse, to not post build pics. I will try to do a summary when we get near completion. If I can figure out picture posts, I'll put a few of the car up tonight. Thanks much, and again, your YouTube vids have been very helpful!
-Mark

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[Valkster]

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[Valkster]

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[Valkster]

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[Ducky2009]

I used 3/4' thick (X 1" wide) X 30" long PVC from the local hardware. Tapered it down to 5/8" near the nose. I was concerned someone would lean on the body with the hood open. Sorry , no pics.