Upper control arm sleave cutting

[bartock]

Now that my build is done I am trying to do the alignment using a fastrax tool. My ride height is dialed in and I set the control arm sleaves for a rough alignment for a power steering setup. I just started seeing threads about having to cut one of the sleaves to get more caster, but just seeing how accurate that info still is. With everything set for the alignment I am getting 8 degrees of positive caster already with nothing cut. To me that seems as if Factory Five is sending out control arms with already shorter sleaves. I dont want to cut anything arbitrarily.

I am running rear IRS, power steering, back ride height is at 4 1/2, front is 3.75 with everything settled in. FL is pretty flat so not worried about hitting anything, but may adjust later.

I set the fastrax tool up, used a level to make sure it was straight up and down as close to 0 as I could. Turned out 15, zeroed the gauge, turned in to the 15 mark, read 8 pos caster so I think I am good.
Just seeing if anyone else has been cutting anything lately.

[Norm B]

What camber reading do you have? You are looking for about 0.5 degrees negative (in at the top).
The good news is that you have more than the 7 degrees of caster that is recommended so you can turn in the front sleeves if necessary to get the suggested camber.

Norm

[bartock]

Baseline was -.7 ish left and -.5ish right.

[gbranham]

For what it's worth, my kit was delivered about 18 months ago, and I had to cut the rear sleeves to achieve the rough dimensions for power steering. I haven't aligned mine yet, but after cutting them, I have plenty of range of adjustability to get it where it needs to be. It's a 10 minute process to cut the end of each rear sleeve, and the corresponding threaded pins that thread into them, so I'd suggest you do it. Jeff Kleiner once posted a picture of the rough dimensions of the control arm that get you close enough to go-kart before an alignment. Here's the dialog Jeff mentioned that went along with the picture:

For power steering targeting about 8 degrees positive caster and around 1/2 degree negative camber you want the rear legs to measure approximately 7 3/4" from the center of clevis bolt to center of ball joint grease fitting and the front legs to measure approximately 9" from the center of clevis bolt to center of ball joint grease fitting. That'll get you in the ballpark.

Jeff

209506

[Jeff Kleiner]

For what it's worth, my kit was delivered about 18 months ago, and I had to cut the rear sleeves to achieve the rough dimensions for power steering. I haven't aligned mine yet, but after cutting them, I have plenty of range of adjustability to get it where it needs to be. It's a 10 minute process to cut the end of each rear sleeve, and the corresponding threaded pins that thread into them, so I'd suggest you do it. Jeff Kleiner once posted a picture of the rough dimensions of the control arm that get you close enough to go-kart before an alignment. Here's the dialog Jeff mentioned that went along with the picture:

For power steering targeting about 8 degrees positive caster and around 1/2 degree negative camber you want the rear legs to measure approximately 7 3/4" from the center of clevis bolt to center of ball joint grease fitting and the front legs to measure approximately 9" from the center of clevis bolt to center of ball joint grease fitting. That'll get you in the ballpark.

Jeff

209506

Don’t know where you got that info Greg but those are not my words nor is that my photo. I measure from the grease zerk centers, not the clevis bolt.

Using the center of the grease zerks as a reference if you set them like this you’ll be real close to about .5 degree negative camber and 7-8 degrees positive caster.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189078&d=1666032431

Jeff

[MB750]

For what it's worth, my kit was delivered about 18 months ago, and I had to cut the rear sleeves to achieve the rough dimensions for power steering. I haven't aligned mine yet, but after cutting them, I have plenty of range of adjustability to get it where it needs to be. It's a 10 minute process to cut the end of each rear sleeve, and the corresponding threaded pins that thread into them, so I'd suggest you do it. Jeff Kleiner once posted a picture of the rough dimensions of the control arm that get you close enough to go-kart before an alignment. Here's the dialog Jeff mentioned that went along with the picture:

For power steering targeting about 8 degrees positive caster and around 1/2 degree negative camber you want the rear legs to measure approximately 7 3/4" from the center of clevis bolt to center of ball joint grease fitting and the front legs to measure approximately 9" from the center of clevis bolt to center of ball joint grease fitting. That'll get you in the ballpark.

Jeff

209506

Same. I maybe took 1/4" off each end. Roughing end mill made quick work of it.

[bartock]

Thank you all for the info. I will do the final alignment tomorrow but was taking some baseline readings with the fastrax today. Perhaps the sleaves are coming in pre cut/shortened. Mine was delivered last May so perhaps the issue was addressed. As long as I havent completely botched reading the caster side, I am already pretty close and doesnt appear I will need to cut anything to get extra caster.

[Jeff Kleiner]

The sleeves have not changed. Sometimes you can hit 7-8 but most times not. Just depends on how tolerances stack up.

Jeff

[bartock]

I guess I got lucky then! I set the lengths based on measurements like yours that I saw on other posts and in the manual for power steering. Not that it would be that hard to pull it and cut it but at this point Ill take it. It already was driving well and straight but decided Ive done everything else myself, why not try to do the final alignment. I just need to tweak it tomorrow and set the final toe. Not sure Tires Plus or Firestone would get it right.

[gbranham]

Don’t know where you got that info Greg but those are not my words nor is that my photo. I measure from the grease zerk centers, not the clevis bolt.

Using the center of the grease zerks as a reference if you set them like this you’ll be real close to about .5 degree negative camber and 7-8 degrees positive caster.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189078&d=1666032431

Jeff

That's a picture of my front control arm. I included it in my post just as a reference for OP. The text I included was from post #28 here > Upper control arms & Rough Alignment Mk4 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?29449-Upper-control-arms-amp-Rough-Alignment-Mk4)

[CraigS]

I can shorten sleeves on my lathe no charge for anyone who needs it. Email me at craigstuardatcomcastdotnet for contact info. I just ask you to put a $10 bill in the box to cover return postage.

[bartock]

So far so good. Steering wheel is centered,all measurements make sense and tracks straight up to 50...haven't gone above that yet. The fastrax was a pain but got it done. It didn't want to hold zero well after resetting for caster. At one point showed i had 12 degrees positive. I went back to 15 degrees out and zero had moved. Happened a few times but got it done. The rear adjuster is bottomed out but I got 8 degrees.