TXJosh
01-12-2025, 10:59 AM
Hello All
I am in the middle of the aluminum panel march through the desert. I’m almost done with the cockpit.
I have had to fiddle with a few things, trimming and bending to get it to work. My question is regarding the outer cockpit aluminum panel. Does the vertical flange on this piece tuck behind the side under door panel or layer on top of it? The manual is not clear and I have seen many many photos each way. Please fire away your thoughts on this. Thank you — really appreciate your feedback on this.
Separately, I have also learned a few hard lessons on aluminum panels which I’ll share for anybody just starting that may be wondering how to efficiently work the panels.
1. The FFR screw locations for shipment are definitely just a suggestion and are often not where you will ultimately need to drill. When I first worked on the passenger side foot box I anchored with their shipment screw location. Boy was that a mistake. 3/8” off and that discrepancy rippled through all the way to the rear. Never made that mistake again.
2. Drill efficiency. There are hundreds of holes that need to be drilled. Get the tools that work most efficiently. A proper drill and especially drill bit are key here. I started out not understanding drill power and optimal drill bit material science. What works great? I have settled on US made cobalt drill bits from Breeze (pack of 10, but won’t need them all) and a metabo 3 gear chordless hand drill that can drill at 3800 rpm. I am drilling for 1/8” rivets at about 3400 rpm. In plate steel, higher rpm’s are better for small diameter holes. I can drill through the chassis in under 7 seconds with moderate pressure. The drill substantially outperforms my Milwaukee hand drill (which I love) for the task. I also purchased a couple stubby, quarter shank cobalt drill bits from Chicago Latrobe for when I need to apply a lot of pressure and need to keep it short. These also work on snake chords and 90 degree chuck adapters where a quarter shank is required. RPMs and US made drill bits are your friend.
3. Clecos are essential for fitting and mocking up. They are magic. This relates to…
4. Wait to silicon and rivet. I’m not siliconing and riveting until required. This is an adventure and preserving
flexibility and access as long as possible has value.
5. Purchase aviation snips and hand seamers. You will not save money by not purchasing these, you will only delay the purchase and slow yourself down. They are great for the little optimization adjustments that will be required. I bought all mine for $100 and they work well. And I am a tool snob on most things.
I am in the middle of the aluminum panel march through the desert. I’m almost done with the cockpit.
I have had to fiddle with a few things, trimming and bending to get it to work. My question is regarding the outer cockpit aluminum panel. Does the vertical flange on this piece tuck behind the side under door panel or layer on top of it? The manual is not clear and I have seen many many photos each way. Please fire away your thoughts on this. Thank you — really appreciate your feedback on this.
Separately, I have also learned a few hard lessons on aluminum panels which I’ll share for anybody just starting that may be wondering how to efficiently work the panels.
1. The FFR screw locations for shipment are definitely just a suggestion and are often not where you will ultimately need to drill. When I first worked on the passenger side foot box I anchored with their shipment screw location. Boy was that a mistake. 3/8” off and that discrepancy rippled through all the way to the rear. Never made that mistake again.
2. Drill efficiency. There are hundreds of holes that need to be drilled. Get the tools that work most efficiently. A proper drill and especially drill bit are key here. I started out not understanding drill power and optimal drill bit material science. What works great? I have settled on US made cobalt drill bits from Breeze (pack of 10, but won’t need them all) and a metabo 3 gear chordless hand drill that can drill at 3800 rpm. I am drilling for 1/8” rivets at about 3400 rpm. In plate steel, higher rpm’s are better for small diameter holes. I can drill through the chassis in under 7 seconds with moderate pressure. The drill substantially outperforms my Milwaukee hand drill (which I love) for the task. I also purchased a couple stubby, quarter shank cobalt drill bits from Chicago Latrobe for when I need to apply a lot of pressure and need to keep it short. These also work on snake chords and 90 degree chuck adapters where a quarter shank is required. RPMs and US made drill bits are your friend.
3. Clecos are essential for fitting and mocking up. They are magic. This relates to…
4. Wait to silicon and rivet. I’m not siliconing and riveting until required. This is an adventure and preserving
flexibility and access as long as possible has value.
5. Purchase aviation snips and hand seamers. You will not save money by not purchasing these, you will only delay the purchase and slow yourself down. They are great for the little optimization adjustments that will be required. I bought all mine for $100 and they work well. And I am a tool snob on most things.