Dash Mounting

[Jim Doak]

I've searched but haven't found the answer to my question.

I've started wiring my car and have seen a couple of threads where builders have made provisions to make their dashes easily removable, some of them using tabs attached to the dash hoop.

Please tell me what you think of this idea, and it's possible it's already been done but not found in my search: Cut some small brackets from 1" x 1" x 1/8" angle or something similar (say four or so brackets). Weld the brackets to the bottom of the dash hoop - equally spaced - so that the faces of the brackets are flush with the front, vertical face of the dash hoop.

After welding the brackets, temporarily fit the dash to the hoop using clamps and mark the locations where the dash needs to be drilled to catch the centers of the angle brackets. Then drill through the dash and the four (or however may) angle brackets with the appropriately sized drill bit to match the selected mounting hardware.

Then instead of simply using removable nuts on the back side of the brackets to fasten the dash, how about welding the nuts to the back side of the brackets so that the dash can be unbolted easily from the front side without the necessity of using a wrench on the back side?

Let me know what you think.

Thanks.

[StangRacer]

I am nowhere near getting to the point of mounting my dash but what you described is exactly what I have been considering when the time comes...

[BRRT]

Real close to what I am doing, with a couple exceptions. I am screwing the angle brackets to the 3/4" tube. I used rivnuts into the tube, as the steel is pretty thin. I am tapping the angle brackets instead of welding nuts to the back side.
Jeff Kleiner offered a piece of sage advice - if you are going to have stripes on your car don't install the middle brackets as it is highly unlikely they will lineup with the stripes. May not be a problem, depending on how OCD you are.

I am also using some brackets to stabilize the bottom edge of the dash. Aluminum on the drivers side, steel on the passenger side to have a bit more strength to support a passenger grab bar.

[rich grsc]

Jim, don't make it so difficult. I just riveted 3 aluminum tabs on the hoop, positioned the dash, then used black self taping screws to hold the dash. They are trim screws with built in washers, look very appropriate

[Jeff Kleiner]

Forget the nuts and simply tap the tabs. If you use 8-32 or 10-32 fasteners you’ll have plenty of thread in a 1/8” thick tab.

Jeff

[steno]

What Jeff said!

[OB6]

I riveted four tabs to the hoop, secured the dash with clamps, then match-drilled the dash and tabs, and installed 10-24 rivnuts. Super easy.

[DW66]

I welded then taped.208254208255

Dave

[Rebostar]

I epoxied 4ea 10-32 studs to the back side of the dash after marking where the bottom of the hoop was. Then I attached 4ea 3/4 angle aluminum tabs to the dash studs with nyloc nuts. Then marked and drilled vertical holes 3/16" . I installed 4ea 10-32 nutserts. Then attached the dash to the hoop with 10-32 screws in the vertical plane. This makes the dash completly removable and has no visible screws or bolts. Makes for a very clean dash install. I also made a steel grab handle support below the glove box and a lower steel support just above the left side of the tunnel. I remove 6 10-32 screws and two grab handle nuts and the dash is ready to come down and out. All the electrical connections have weather-pac connectors. Its a bit more work than just slamming in 4 screws but well worth the clean look it gives the dash.

208256208257208258208259208260

[gbranham]

Probably a dumb question, but on my MkIII, I simply used screws with integrated washers to attach my dash to the dash hoop. It was removeable with the body on. Is that not the case with the MkIV? The rolled edge on the MkIV body above the dash does look bigger than the MkIII body...is that why?

Greg

[cv2065]

Probably a dumb question, but on my MkIII, I simply used screws with integrated washers to attach my dash to the dash hoop. It was removeable with the body on. Is that not the case with the MkIV? The rolled edge on the MkIV body above the dash does look bigger than the MkIII body...is that why?

Greg

Not sure about the size comparison, but you can do the same with the MKIV. That's how I had my last build and will do this one the same way. You just have to fit the dash holes with the body on otherwise the body might overlap those screws and it's more difficult to get the dash out if needed. I like the exposed screws. I use black chrome that looks great.

[gbranham]

Not sure about the size comparison, but you can do the same with the MKIV. That's how I had my last build and will do this one the same way. You just have to fit the dash holes with the body on otherwise the body might overlap those screws and it's more difficult to get the dash out if needed. I like the exposed screws. I use black chrome that looks great.

It just seems curious to me that folks would go through the trouble of mounting tabs on the dash hoop, then run screws through the dash into those tabs, when you can effectively do the same thing directly into the dash hoop. I didn't want exposed screws on my dash, so I dimpled my dash in 5 spots, corresponding to where the screws would go, then ran flathead screws through those dimples into tabs I affixed to the dash hoop with self-tappers, then covered my dash. No screws on my dash, and I can remove the dash by removing the 5 self-tappers. I guess there's lots of different ways to get this done.

Greg

Greg

[Jeff Kleiner]

It just seems curious to me that folks would go through the trouble of mounting tabs on the dash hoop, then run screws through the dash into those tabs, when you can effectively do the same thing directly into the dash hoop….
Greg

Because if you do that they will be inaccessible since the body will cover them meaning that the dash can’t be removed.

Jeff

[gbranham]

Because if you do that they will be inaccessible since the body will cover them meaning that the dash can’t be removed.

Jeff

Gotcha. That's what I figured. Thanks, Jeff.

[MaxVmo]

I found this video which really helped me visualize a plan. Great place for quality items and expertise as well:


https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YcQnUV1twS0

[Jim Doak]

Happy New Year, folks.

I used guidance provided above and completed fitting my dash today. That included welding four functional 3/4" x 3/4" x 1" angle iron tabs to the underside of the dash hoop. I also added a 4" tab to the center of the hoop if I decide I need a fastener there in the future. (Doubtful)

And as recommended, I used a 10-24 tap to prep the four tabs so I can use SS fasteners to attach the dash to the chassis.

And I'll probably end up fitting the Vintage clock in the dash.

[nashuanuke]

having forgotten about this and after getting my body on realizing the starter wasn't getting power anymore, taking the body back off to get behind the dash to troubleshoot reminded me real quick (wire pulled loose from a weatherpack)

[dbo_texas]

lots of folks have eliminated the screws completely and just used 3M Dual Lock to mount the dash. This is what I'm doing and detailed it in my BUILD THREAD. (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-137)&p=494818&viewfull=1#post494818) I haven't permanently mounted but others who have done this said it is plenty strong especially if you have under-dash filler panel to help support the bottom.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=168167&d=1655404507

[phileas_fogg]

If you use Dual Lock up on the dash hoop, be sure you can pull the dash forward enough to get the two sides apart (in other words, check that the gap between the cowl and the dash is large enough). That Dual Lock is MUCH grippier than your standard velcro. I'm pretty sure you'd need a screwdriver to pry a 1" x 2" rectangle apart!


John