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View Full Version : clutch pilot bearing - did I mess it up?



stuchman1
12-29-2024, 02:05 PM
Friends,

I did something dumb and I'm wondering if it's an issue.

We installed our clutch pilot bearing by following the directions of hammering it in using a 22m socket on top to distribute the force. I clearly didn't think hard enough before starting, and I had the "bolt side" of the socket with its thin walls against the bearing instead of "ratchet side," which would have provided a much duller contact surface with the bearing.

This has resulted in some marking of the surface mostly of the casing, as you can see in the attached picture. I can still rotate the bearing with my finger without grinding though it's stiff, which I imagine is how it's supposed to be.

Pull it and get a new one? Or good to go?

I wouldn't think much of it especially since it's the inner bearing that's important and not so much the outer casing so those scratches shouldn't matter, but when you read anything about installing these you'd think they're made of porcelain and if you do something the slightest bit wrong, when starting the engine the bearing will disintegrate and your transmission will blow up. :O

Thanks
ST

michael everson
12-29-2024, 02:12 PM
I personally think its fine. I have had a few look like that with no adverse effects
Mike

AC Bill
12-29-2024, 02:41 PM
Just have to ask yourself if you are willing to take the time, and do the work it will require to replace it, if it does fail.
It doesn't look good to me, but I'm sure Mr. Everson may have more experience in this area.

weendoggy
12-29-2024, 04:12 PM
Agree with Mike, run it, that part doesn't effect the bearing and it looks good from the photo.

edwardb
12-29-2024, 08:43 PM
Wow. Beat it up pretty good. I've put a number of those in (not as many as Mike...) with a socket just like you described. As long as kept straight and the right part, they went in without extreme force and didn't look worse for wear. I agree it's "probably" OK. But also good point about major teardown required if not. Up to you. Your challenge will be if it went in that hard it's not going to be easy to get back out. Not meaning to be critical, but I'd recommend easing up on hammering things into place. As a general rule, if something doesn't fit without heavy hitting, stop and check what's happening. Wrong part, whatever. That applies to the whole build. In this case, assuming it is the right part, putting it in the freezer overnight would probably let it go in much easier.

Ford & Jeep Fan
12-29-2024, 08:50 PM
as long as the input alignment tool fits it good (I'd also measure it and the trans input shaft to make sure they are the same.) I'd run it if the tool turn smooth.

BEAR-AvHistory
12-29-2024, 09:32 PM
I would pull it now rather than have it in the back of my mind every time I got into the car. $20 part? Not a big deal to get it out but will be after the car is built & on the road.

Avalanche325
12-30-2024, 04:54 PM
I would change it for the fact that it is a cheap part and if it fails, it is engine out.
Two things on using a hammer. 1. Tap it in. Not Thor making thunder it in. 2. Don't let the socket bounce. Solid contact, and tap.

The freezer trick also helps if it is stubborn.

stuchman1
12-30-2024, 05:33 PM
Thanks all for the tips. I think I'll replace it. As you've pointed out, it's a cheap part and I'd far prefer to just replace it now as opposed to finding out later once the car is fully assembled that it's bad. Thank you!

Rebostar
12-30-2024, 05:48 PM
I think you've made the right choice about replacing it. If for no other reason than piece of mind. You dont want to be thinking about that bearing when your doing a heavy downshift entering a sharp unbanked corner.
I've had issues with the bearing of the correct P/N being .001 bigger than the bore (interferance fit). No amount of bashing would seat that. Packing over night in dry ice would be better that a freezer, but the freezer would be better than nothing. Also put a heat gun on the bore for about a half hour, that should allow you to tap it in. I made a brass tool for just this job (about .010 smaller than the bore). Your local machine shop could turn one out for you in about 10 minutes, for around $50 bucks.

Good luck and
Happy Trails