Turn signal stopped working, again

[TMartinLVNV]

Long time no post fellow Cobra enthusiasts. I've still been driving and am over 17k miles on my Roadster. I have a new Honda Talon SxS now, so the Cobra is not getting used as much as it used to be but do have several long road trips this summer in the planning stage. Anyway, I'm at my wits end with the turn signals and am hoping someone can provide some suggestions. I'll give as much data as possible. I have the RT turn signal stalk installed. The 4 way flashers work fine (dash lights and corner lights all work).

At about 10k miles, the turn signals stopped working. The car had been through some serious rain storms and thought that maybe something got wet. I replaced the flasher module and they worked again.

Later on, the turn signals stopped worked again (don't know the miles). I sent the RT setup back to him (when he was still with us) and along with a lot of money, he said he "rebuilt" it. Everything worked fine.

At about 16.5k miles, the right side turn signal stopped working. I pulled out the gauges and looked underneath of the dash, pulled the steering wheel/hub, jiggled the wires, and everything looked fine. Again, I replaced the flasher module and both turn signals worked.

After just another 500 miles, both turn signals went out. With the car off, I think I can hear a very faint single click in the module area when the turn signal is engaged. I pulled the fuse box down and looked at the backside to see if there was any corrosion built up but it looks fine. All of the fuses and bulbs are fine. I used a multimeter and there is 12+ volts at the flash module prong. I replaced the flash module again and no workie.

I have used a heavy duty super duper flash module as well as 552s. I'm thinking that the problem is with the RT collar and when I'm messing with wiring or the steering column, I'm bumping an intermittent connection. My thoughts are it is time to throw the RT turn signal system in the trash and just go to a toggle switch.

Does anyone have any suggestions for anything else to check?

Terry

[Blitzboy54]

Terry, good to hear from you although bummer about the directionals.

When it stops working do you still have 12v at the grey wire? I assume so since it was one side out but let’s start there. If no obviously you have to follow it back and find your open but this seems unlikely.

If you do have power I would disconnect it from the RT HUB and do a continuity check from where the 12v connects to the right then left side of the switch. Actuate the switch back and forth. If you have an open when the switch is met or intermittently have continuity when it should be there I would agree there is something wrong with the switch.

If the switch consistently works then I would check that whole circuit for a short to ground.

[CraigS]

I used a Cole Hersey toggle w/ a long arm. Note this is not the correct switch. I show it to show the type of chrome round handle.
https://www.elecdirect.com/cole-hersee-switches/cole-hersee-toggle-switches/spst-off-mom-on-2-blades
They have black plastic handle extenders that just slip over the metal handle.
https://www.elecdirect.com/cole-hersee-switches/cole-hersee-toggle-switches/toggle-extension-black
Mine was to the left of my steering wheel and I first mounted it so push right lights right TS, etc. Then I realized I could rotate it 90 degrees so up = right and down = left. Just like the stalk in a lot of daily drivers.

[TMartinLVNV]

Thanks guys for the info. I finally had an opportunity to start working on it. Craig, I bought a SPDT toggle and will be installing it. Blitz, I attempted to get access to the grey, lt blue, and dark green turn signal wires through the tach gauge hole. I just can't get to them much less get tools in there to work. So........I'm pulling the body. Yesterday, I worked for about 4 hrs and have the body 80% ready to come off. I want to fix this problem one and for all. While I'm in there, I want to try to address engine bay hot air coming into the cockpit plus my accel linkage. I've never been 100% happy with how much effort it takes to start the accel pedal. I think I have too much angle in it and want to make it smoother. This is not what I want to be doing, but I'm also sick of looking at the car in the garage plus paying for insurance without driving it. Finally, I want to look into making the dash removable with the body on. I don't want to ever have to do this again.

Keeping things in perspective, good thing I'm retired now and have the time plus it is not summer in LV. In fact, it is quite pleasant to be in the garage.

[PNWTim]

Thanks guys for the info. I finally had an opportunity to start working on it. Craig, I bought a SPDT toggle and will be installing it. Blitz, I attempted to get access to the grey, lt blue, and dark green turn signal wires through the tach gauge hole. I just can't get to them much less get tools in there to work. So........I'm pulling the body. Yesterday, I worked for about 4 hrs and have the body 80% ready to come off. I want to fix this problem one and for all. While I'm in there, I want to try to address engine bay hot air coming into the cockpit plus my accel linkage. I've never been 100% happy with how much effort it takes to start the accel pedal. I think I have too much angle in it and want to make it smoother. This is not what I want to be doing, but I'm also sick of looking at the car in the garage plus paying for insurance without driving it. Finally, I want to look into making the dash removable with the body on. I don't want to ever have to do this again.

Keeping things in perspective, good thing I'm retired now and have the time plus it is not summer in LV. In fact, it is quite pleasant to be in the garage.

For what it's worth, you are probably going about this the right way. I am working through a nagging list of items on my other car this winter for almost the exact same reasons. Do I want to raise it up and loosen all the rear suspension then resettle? No. Do I want to crawl into every nook and cranny trying to find a nagging AC leak? No. And so on for 2 or 3 other items.

But it will be pretty gratifying to know you can simply walk out to the shop this spring, jump in and drive away knowing everything is squared away. Good luck!

[TMartinLVNV]

PNW Tim, working solo at a leisurely pace, I had a total of 5 hrs of work put in before the body was ready to come off. Then, I got a neighbor to come over and the body easily came off. What a mess under there! The area under the doors and between the X brace and fiberglass is quite the collection spot for road debris.

I am glad I used weatherpak connectors for the headlights and corner lights. In fact, the only wires I had to cut were for the license plate light when removing the trunk.

I'll probably start addressing issues tomorrow.

[TMartinLVNV]

Success. I pulled out the RF setup and associated wiring. Installed the three way toggle and turn signals are back in operation. Sometimes the simple route is the best. The RF setup sure has cost me a lot of time and money going that route. Now, on to other gremlins to address. After I have a celebratory beer.