Starter Motor Wiring- Coupe/Gen 3 Coyote

[ChrisNicholls]

Hi Guys,

Looking at my chassis harness with the wire bundle that goes to the starter motor on my Gen 3 Coyote. It has three red wires and one blue. My understanding is that I cut back the blue as I do not need it.

The trouble is that the three red wires do not reach to the starter motor (or possibly I could strip back the casing and they might just reach, but I don't like how they stretch over the transmission)

Reading through the forums and build threads, it seems that I could attach the three red chassis harness wires to the one side of the main fuse ("A" in the photo below.)
My understanding is that the red 12V wire runs from that same side of that fuse to the power bolt on the starter ("#2" in the photo below.)

Is this correct?

Does anything attach to the #1 or #3 bolt on the starter?

Thank you!

Chris in Canada
Gen 3 Coupe
Gen 3 Coyote

208032208033

[edwardb]

Those three red wires from the RF harness do not need to be physically routed to the starter. Some do, but as you found out often the harness doesn't reach. IMO that "starter solenoid" reference on the RF harness diagram is a reference to a firewall mounted solenoid which used to be the norm some years ago. Not the actual one on the now standard starter with an integrated solenoid. There are various was to connect those three wires. I personally use a scheme with a master disconnect. You can also use a bus bar or large binding post. Just so they get battery power. I personally wouldn't attach them to the Coyote megafuse that you pictured.

For the starter connections, +12V battery cable on #2, the Coyote start wire on #3, and leave #1 as is.

[ChrisNicholls]

Thank you! You give the best advice! You are the master builder.
So, my understanding is that the battery + power goes directly to the master disconnect switch, then back to the starter, also to the mega-fuse, and also to a bus bar, where the three red wires from the chassis harness connect.
Do I have it right?
The Coyote harness start wire goes directly to the #3 bolt on the starter, as you said.

Is having a main disconnect a good idea? Obviously safer in racing scenarios, but as a daily, still a good idea?
You have me thinking about the driveshaft safety loop, as well...

You have great photos ( and I'm a photographer!) and your descriptions are so good. FFR should pay you to create a build manual for the coupe!

Cheers
Chris
https://chrisnicholls.live/

[edwardb]

Thank you! You give the best advice! You are the master builder.
So, my understanding is that the battery + power goes directly to the master disconnect switch, then back to the starter, also to the mega-fuse, and also to a bus bar, where the three red wires from the chassis harness connect.
Do I have it right?
The Coyote harness start wire goes directly to the #3 bolt on the starter, as you said.

Is having a main disconnect a good idea? Obviously safer in racing scenarios, but as a daily, still a good idea?
You have me thinking about the driveshaft safety loop, as well...

You have great photos ( and I'm a photographer!) and your descriptions are so good. FFR should pay you to create a build manual for the coupe!

Cheers
Chris
https://chrisnicholls.live/

Well, thanks. Just doing what I enjoy and sharing what I've learned has worked for me. My pictures are straight out of an iPhone 14 and saved in the forum gallery. I had a couple photography classes back in the day. Black and white and we did our own developing and printing. How's that for dating myself? But can't say I'm doing anything more than trying to show what I'm working on.

Your power routing is the right idea. Along with the +12V battery feed, you can put the three RF wires on the switch if you want. Or to a bus bar. Or a binding post. Whatever works with your overall electrical scheme. If you use a master disconnect switch, put the +12V battery power and Coyote power on one side, and the starter and however you're going to feed the RF wires on the other (switched side). You want the Coyote to be powered at all times. Very low current draw to save the volatile memory in the PCM. Per Ford Performance instructions. I've put master disconnect switches on my builds because I like to power off the car when stored for the winter (like right now...) and if I'm working on it. Nothing to do with racing in my case. Some do it for security but that's a big motivation for me. You'll get other opinions about it. Strictly builder's choice.

[ChrisNicholls]

Thank you again. Your build is such an inspiration!