Attaching Leveler to Engine Question

[Jim Doak]

I'm getting ready to install the flywheel, clutch, bell housing and transmission onto my engine. Then it'll be time to stick the assembly into the chassis. However, I have a question: since my engine is fully dressed, what's the best way to connect the leveler to the engine without damaging any parts or surfaces?

All suggestions appreciated.

Thanks

[Bob Cowan]

Use matching bolt holes at the front and rear of the engine. You may need to "undress" it a little.

[Jeff Kleiner]

You're going to have to partially undress it. I've done a couple of carbureted Windsors and installed them by attaching the leveler's chains to some 2X3 rectangular tubing that I bolted to the heads at the exhaust ports. This put the chains far enough outboard that after removing the valve covers they didn't rub on the rockers or heads. I removed the cap and wires and pulled the carbs although it probably isn't necessary.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207633&d=1734453854

Hope that helps!

Jeff

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[rich grsc]

Take the carb off, bolt an engine lift plate in place of the carb.

[edwardb]

X2 on the carb plate for this style engine. It's usually simple to remove the carb (EFI type or otherwise) and in my experience is the easiest to get the right balance, adjust the balance, etc. Depending on where you hook chains elsewhere, sometimes you run into the firewall, footboxes, whatever. The carb location eliminates that.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Problem with the carb lift plate is that once the assembly is raised you can't change the angle that it's hanging without having a second person to raise up or push down on the tail as it's going down and rearward into position. I work alone so a leveler makes it a one man operation.

Jeff

[Mike.Bray]

^^^what Jeff said^^^

With a good leveler (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-w41036) it can be a one man job. Or one man and his wife.

[cv2065]

Agree with Jeff as well. Make sure that you get a good quality leveler. The HF stuff for this kind of thing is a pain as it doesn't move well even with grease and the handle flies off. Same as Mike, I just used this one from Performance Tool this past weekend and was amazingly easy to move back and forth. Cuts LOTS of time and aggravation from the install. The chains that came with it were a little short, so bought some replacements at Ace Hardware.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DKHUUO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[gbranham]

Agree with Jeff as well. Make sure that you get a good quality leveler. The HF stuff for this kind of thing is a pain as it doesn't move well even with grease and the handle flies off. Same as Mike, I just used this one from Performance Tool this past weekend and was amazingly easy to move back and forth. Cuts LOTS of time and aggravation from the install. The chains that came with it were a little short, so bought some replacements at Ace Hardware.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DKHUUO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yep, same here. And also had to buy some longer chain. And for those using this or another similar leveler, orient the leveler with the crank handle at the front of the engine (toward the front of the car), and not at the rear of the engine. As I was angling mine down into the chassis, the engine reached an angle where the handle would hit the chain supporting the engine, and I couldn't crank it anymore. Fortunately, you can remove the handle, so I took it off and used a ratchet to get it the rest of the way in.

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[Rebostar]

I scored a leveler at a swap meet, unsure of the make. I swear by it. Even e cheap HF one is better than a carb plate. As stated above I'm a one man band so swapping the engine from the build stand to my run stand then removing it to attach the clutch, bellhousing and transmission, then into the car (possibly several times)I cant imajine going back to a "carb plate". I never liked the idea of all the wieght of a big block, clutch, flywheel, transmission hanging by four 5/16-24 possibly chineese made studs made from old Chevy bumpers, or the four tack welds holding the vertical plate to the hoizontal plate. Always gave me the hebejeebee's. Using a leveler I always remove the altinator, carb and distributor. Though now I'm going to steal JK's exhaust port block idea!

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[Mike.Bray]

As mentioned I also removed the crank and used a socket. At first I used a speedhandle but changed to my electric impact to really move things along. A little WD-40 on the screw helps a lot.

[Jim Doak]

Fellas,

Thanks for the feedback.

I already had an engine lift plate; I'd used it to raise the engine from the BluePrint shipping crate and mount it onto the engine stand. So, this time I used it to lower the 302 onto the garage floor after mounting a cradle so I can roll it arount and install the flywheel, clutch, etc...

Now I've got to decide if I'm going to use the HF leveler I bought a month or so ago, or get a few buddies to stab the assembly in using the lift plate.

[egchewy79]

put a good amt of grease on the threaded mechanism and it'll help a lot.

[gbranham]

I scored a leveler at a swap meet, unsure of the make. I swear by it. Even e cheap HF one is better than a carb plate. As stated above I'm a one man band so swapping the engine from the build stand to my run stand then removing it to attach the clutch, bellhousing and transmission, then into the car (possibly several times)I cant imajine going back to a "carb plate". I never liked the idea of all the wieght of a big block, clutch, flywheel, transmission hanging by four 5/16-24 possibly chineese made studs made from old Chevy bumpers, or the four tack welds holding the vertical plate to the hoizontal plate. Always gave me the hebejeebee's. Using a leveler I always remove the altinator, carb and distributor. Though now I'm going to steal JK's exhaust port block idea!

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You'd be shocked at how much those 4 carb bolts can lift. That said, I used the leveler for the same reasons you did...I thought it would be easier since I dropped it in by myself.

[StangRacer]

You'd be shocked at how much those 4 carb bolts can lift. That said, I used the leveler for the same reasons you did...I thought it would be easier since I dropped it in by myself.

I have always used a carb plate. I can't begin to count how many times I have used mine to take engines out and put engines in... I have never had a failure but must confess I still get nervous every single time. I was able to put a "mock up" engine in my FFR by myself using the carb plate. I just used the front hole on the carb plate... it is an empty block with empty heads and an intake manifold bolted on. Having the transmission and bellhousing attached helped the orientation. I used one of those casters that you set all four tires on to roll your car around the garage and placed it under the chassis. As I lowered the engine the tailstock of the transmission sat on the caster and it rolled back into place as I kept lowering the engine. It couldn't have been any easier... However, when I put the real engine in, I'll have someone to pull the transmission down and into place.

[BUDFIVE]

Jim, this is probably too late for your build but this is a great thread with many good ideas and maybe this will help someone else. I stole this idea from Todd and Jim at the build school-they install and pull that Windsor every couple weeks. So I cut the circled plates out of 1/4” plate steel and installed them before my Dyno trip and kit delivery. They’re still on the engine. Worked great with a leveler, even with the motor fully dressed, when I installed in my build. Best of luck.
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