The start of something new…..Cobra Tango

[Tango]

I gave up one hobby to start a new one. Last month, a few weeks after my 50th bd I had the privilege of racing in the Ironman World Championship in Hawaii. I made a deal with myself (and my wife) that when/if I finished that race it would be my last Ironman and I would move on to something new…I am going to build the car of my dreams for the past 2 decades.

After several conversations with Mike Forte (great dude), I pulled the trigger and ordered a MK4 complete kit with loads of bells and whistles. Just before Thanksgiving, when I was told my “ready to ship” date would be Dec 22, I was like a kid on Christmas Eve.

The very next day the MK5 video landed just as I was supposed to return a call to FFR to finalize my order. When I did, I inquired about the MK5 and was instantly put on hold. Eventually I was connected with Dave (from engineering I believe). I asked him when they would be taking MK5 orders. “I have no idea what you are talking about, there is no MK5”. After a little back and forth (me throwing details/compliments about what I had seen/learned) he opened up a little bit and eventually was very informative.

I was told a few things:
1) None of the info is for certain, dates and details are subject to change.
2) Expect a price increase with no incentives on the new model.
3) Expect all new options, configurations and a few other surprises (?).
4) My order could/would be placed on hold. Once the new model is out we will build a new order and then I can decide if I want to proceed with the MK4 or the MK5…but I would likely miss out on the end of year incentive currently on my order.
5) I was told to expect to see MK5 info released around the first “part” of Jan and that there will most likely will be a 30th anniversary build but it is undetermined when and if it will be MK4 or MK5 based.

All that is to say, I am super excited, slightly intimidated, and incredibly thankful for the knowledge and experience available via these forums.

More to follow but I wanted to at least get this started.

[danmas]

Welcome Tango. It’s a lot of fun. It’s frustrating and challenging and my favorite hobby right now. Most people here are super generous with advice and coaching. Welcome!

[TrackDay17]

I had called FF just before Thanksgiving myself and intended to order a MKIV.
Then I saw the MKV video and decided to hold off.
Forte seems like a great guy, I called him too about getting a Gen4 Coyote package which I'll order as soon as I order the car.
I may regret waiting but I guess we shall see.
I'll be following this thread for sure, can't wait to see what your build will look like.

[Tango]

Now for my first update…..
Initial MK5 configuration was placed today over the phone. Optional kit items that seemed important:
* New 2” seat belt option with blacked out hardware
* New mirror options to choose from (GT300 and GT400 styles)
* MK5 uses new pipes & mufflers which are longer and have a different sound
* CF Hood Scoop (there is also a plastic option)
* Same CF Dash+glove box is now compatible with new AC/Heat option
* New power assist brake option
* Leather steering wheel is now standard

Other MK5 specific items I learned today:
* The Battery is relocated to under the hood by default. <Edited>
* Enlarged trunk space is standard.
* Hard top will not be available until Fall 2025 and pricing is TBD.
* Anniversary build will be a separate product launch (MK5 based) details still TBD
* Same wheel/tire size compatibility

The overall price difference was/is not insignificant but after studying the options I have equipped and loosing the end of year discount, it is not all that bad.
News should come out first of the year and my expected order completion date is anticipated to be mid Jan.

I will provide a detailed rundown of all my selected components once they are finalized.

Needless to say, I am very excited.

[gbranham]

When you say the battery is 'relocated to the hood', I assume you mean in the engine compartment somewhere? Wondering if FFR is doing incorporating their own version of Mark Reynolds's (Breeze) engine bay battery box?

[Jeff Kleiner]

When you say the battery is 'relocated to the hood', I assume you mean in the engine compartment somewhere? Wondering if FFR is doing incorporating their own version of Mark Reynolds's (Breeze) engine bay battery box?

It's like the Coupe.

Jeff

[fauxbra5.0]

Now for my first update…..
Initial MK5 configuration was placed today over the phone. Optional kit items that seemed important:
* New 2” seat belt option with blacked out hardware
* New mirror options to choose from (GT300 and GT400 styles)
* MK5 uses new pipes & mufflers which are longer and have a different sound
* CF Hood Scoop (there is also a plastic option)
* Same CF Dash+glove box is now compatible with new AC/Heat option
* New power assist brake option
* Leather steering wheel is now standard

Other MK5 specific items I learned today:
* The Battery is relocated to under the hood by default. <Edited>
* Enlarged trunk space is standard.
* Hard top will not be available until Fall 2025 and pricing is TBD.
* Anniversary build will be a separate product launch (MK5 based) details still TBD
* Same wheel/tire size compatibility

The overall price difference was/is not insignificant but after studying the options I have equipped and loosing the end of year discount, it is not all that bad.
News should come out first of the year and my expected order completion date is anticipated to be mid Jan.

I will provide a detailed rundown of all my selected components once they are finalized.

Needless to say, I am very excited.

Interesting to see the power assisted brake option...will you still be able to hydroboost the brakes, or is it electric or none?

[Jeff Kleiner]

Interesting to see the power assisted brake option...will you still be able to hydroboost the brakes, or is it electric or none?

It’s a remote mount 2 circuit (front and rear) vacuum assist unit that is ideal for the dual master cylinder with balance bar Wilwood pedal setup.

Jeff

[fauxbra5.0]

It’s a remote mount 2 circuit (front and rear) vacuum assist unit that is ideal for the dual master cylinder with balance bar Wilwood pedal setup.

Jeff

Very interesting...if its a vac assist, the unit is probably going to be fairly large. Presumably, it couldnt mount on the firewall (unless the engine is way forward), does it mount behind the radiator?

[Todd Baumann]

Very interesting...if its a vac assist, the unit is probably going to be fairly large. Presumably, it couldnt mount on the firewall (unless the engine is way forward), does it mount behind the radiator?

It's close to the size of a football rounded off. Nice piece and should be pretty popular option overall I would think. They had mounted it up front behind the rad.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Very interesting...if its a vac assist, the unit is probably going to be fairly large. Presumably, it couldnt mount on the firewall (unless the engine is way forward), does it mount behind the radiator?

Yes. But being remote mounted you can put it anywhere…even in the trunk if you were so inclined! It would take more plumbing (2 brake lines in and 2 out) but in theory it could be done ;)

Jeff

[fauxbra5.0]

Yes. But being remote mounted you can put it anywhere…even in the trunk if you were so inclined! It would take more plumbing (2 brake lines in and 2 out) but in theory it could be done ;)

Jeff

Technically speaking, with unlimited time and money, anythings possible! May not be smart, but possible...did you get your new kit yet?

[Blitzboy54]

Technically speaking, with unlimited time and money, anythings possible! May not be smart, but possible...did you get your new kit yet?

Yeah, come on Jeff, we are dying for an update. :)

[Tango]

With final payment processed, an official order completion date issued (1/18), and Stewart Transport estimating delivery by the end of Jan, I feel it is time that I share some details of this build plan. The goal is a sunny day cruiser that can really get after it when prompted. I doubt it will ever see a car show or the track, but it will regularly be driven with vigor. Initial components include:
MK-5 Complete Kit
Coyote Gen4x + TKX (2.87/.68)
Power Steering + Power Assisted Brakes
IRS + Touring Shocks + F&R Sway Bars
H. Clutch
Wilwood brakes
FFR Pipes (Supposedly new and improved, will be blacked out)
Dual Black Roll bars
CF Dash with larger custom dials
CF Hood Scoop
2” Harness option
AC/Heat Option (Soft or Hard top will be optioned later when available)
18” wheels (beaters through go cart then nicer ones from Forgestar or LMR)
Intatrim leather doors, interior and seats (Vinyl roadster seats through build phase)
100% Hidden (BT only) sound system
Mostly blacked out trim (Assuming I can learn how to do my own powder coating)
E-Stopp Electric Parking Brake

That’s the big stuff for now. There are several other options that I am considering, but I would like to see how the frame/panels all fit together first. I am super excited about this project/challenge, particularly the learning process and problem solving aspect. My intent is to keep this thread current with the build progress and tap into the knowledge and experience of this forum.

[Mick40]

Tango, I’m definitely looking forward to following your build – it all sounds super exciting! As for the sound system, I really enjoy the sound of the car myself, but I totally get that everyone has their own preferences. I’ve got Gas & G0 pipes, and I can have a conversation without feeling like I’m screaming.

Welcome aboard, by the way! ��

Mick

[Tango]

Thanks Mick. Honestly, the sound system is something that I am not 100% convinced I need or want, but I plan to keep it as a wait and see option. If I do it there will be no head unit and it will be contained behind the seats.

[Tango]

I am sure the veteran builders of the group can describe it better, but there is that sneaky little grin that hits when you answer an unrecognizable phone number just to learn that Stewart Transport is running a day ahead of schedule and will be at your place Thursday rather than Friday. More to follow in the next few days.

[gbranham]

Since you have the Wilwood brake setup from FFR, you might consider the Wilwood electric park brake setup, over the eStopp. It's a bit more money (I paid $1100-ish from Gordon Levy), but it doesn't have the big body of the eStopp...it's just the direct replacement park brake calipers. Much cleaner, in my opinion.

Greg

[Tango]

She landed yesterday and is all snug in her new home. Inventory is underway and progressing nicely. Maybe 80% done but saved the toughest boxes for last. So far only one or two things unaccounted for and a modestly short POL. 210236210237

[Jeff Kleiner]

Nice! :)

Jeff

[kgkeys]

Man, I still remember the day mine arrived. I was giddy!

Enjoy!

-Kyle

[Tango]

Inventory = done. Once you get rolling it’s not that bad. Doors and trunk are off. If you have any day-1 build advice for a first timer, send it my way. Here is a shot of something that was new to me, the CF scoop. As I get underway, I will include more of the other new items as well.210253210254

[gbranham]

Take a ton of pics of all the aluminum panels before you remove them...from all angles, so you can see how they all overlap.

[fauxbra5.0]

Congrats, Tango! Good luck with your build, I'll be following along!

[Jeff Kleiner]

Take a ton of pics of all the aluminum panels before you remove them...from all angles, so you can see how they all overlap.

The Mk5 manual has multiple CAD engineering diagrams that clearly shows every panel and the overlaps. Very helpful!

Jeff

[Tango]

Now that I am underway, let me add some structure to make these post flow:

Ground covered:
Body removed. Panels photographed and marked. Body hoist started. I visited a former “powder coater” today. He has offered me open access to his (now retired) shop and agreed to teach me how to use it. The catch is he does not want to do it (the powder coating) , but he will teach me….he lives about 12 minutes from my house. I’ll take that deal. His oven is the size of my guest bathroom.

Lessons learned:
1. I wish I had filmed the inventory process where I identified parts that I was not familiar with. It took time and I learned along the way. It occurred to me today that it would have been good to capture that for future reference.
2. Somehow I was the “expert” guiding my 4 helpers while we removed the body this morning. I had no idea what I was doing. Lesson: Fake it till you make it.
3. Marking the panels is not an all or nothing thing. You can mark some or all and then take one off at a time and see if you are happy with the result.
4. I spent some time flat on my back on the garage floor marking panels…to do it again, go for your morning run after not before, or get a creeper.
5. When Jeff K speaks, you had better listen. (I have a print out of the aluminum panel layout from the MK5 instruction pdf posted on my garage wall)

Outstanding Questions: None at this point, but always open for advice.

Next Steps
1. Remove and drill existing panels.
2. Test fit (cleco) existing panels.
3. Fit, mark, remove, drill other aluminum panels.
4. “Dispose of the body”…hang it from the ceiling.
5. Research next 2 steps in the process.

[gbranham]

The Mk5 manual has multiple CAD engineering diagrams that clearly shows every panel and the overlaps. Very helpful!

Jeff

That's pretty awesome, actually. So good to see the build manual evolve.

[fauxbra5.0]

That's pretty awesome, actually. So good to see the build manual evolve.

Agreed! Cant wait for the Mk5 manual to be available, would love to go through it and see the differences between the Mk4 & Mk5.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Agreed! Cant wait for the Mk5 manual to be available, would love to go through it and see the differences between the Mk4 & Mk5.

We got revision 1K last week and Jesper indicated that Mad Dog would be releasing it. It's currently 565 pages.

Jeff

[Tango]

Ground covered:
1. LOTS of Drilling. Front and cockpit are complete. Doors and rear remaining. I gain access to the Powder Coat facility in 2 weeks and still need to learn that process so plenty of time. (As mentioned in a separate post, I will be doing my own PC at a remote location of a former/retired Powder Coater)
2. Partial re-inventory identifying any raw metal bits that should be included in the initial PC batch.

Lessons learned:
1. The drill bit does the work, it’s not about speed or pressure.
2. Meany rivet locations are easier to mark while the panel is on the chassis and overlaps are where the fun comes in.
3. I could have been better at labeling the panels the first time through. I plan to take the provided diagram/panel inventory and resort it, generating a chronological order of how they need to be installed for reference later.

Outstanding Questions:
1. I have confirmed 2x directly with FFR that the new MKV body does not require a buck for storage, however the instructions still contain all the traditional buck templates and guidance. Can anyone on here support/refute this claim?
2. I plan to touch up a few spots on the powder coated frame. What is the best material for this (flat black grill spray, POR-15 or other)?
3. Is there any practical reason for painting/coating the steering rack (POR-15) or is it just for looks?

Next Steps:
1. Receive Brakes & Rear Diff.
2. Clean up (debur) holes and markings.
3. Re-install all the panels marking them with the diagram # and photograph then.
4. Package aluminum for transport to PC.
5. Touch up a few minor spots on the frame.
6. Prep for suspension work.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Sounds like you're making progress Bill!


...I have confirmed 2x directly with FFR that the new MKV body does not require a buck for storage, however the instructions still contain all the traditional buck templates and guidance. Can anyone on here support/refute this claim?

Mk5 does not actually require a buck---and for that matter neither does a Mk1,2,3 or 4. This is how the bodies are stored at FFR before they are shipped:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163955&d=1538649124

That said though the big advantage to a buck is it can be on wheels and the body can easily be moved around (I have 3 of them!) but if you have a place for it or space it can just sit on flat ground. I do recommend though that you use the brace that spans the cockpit when you pick it up or move it. This is especially true with the Mk5 since the rockers do not wrap under like on a Mk4.



I plan to touch up a few spots on the powder coated frame. What is the best material for this (flat black grill spray, POR-15 or other)?

It's not a flat finish. Rustoleum "Satin Black" and Eastwood "Chassis Black" are both a pretty good match.

Carry On!

Jeff

[Tango]

Abbreviated update: Chilly in the garage today as we got hit by a surprise snow storm last night. Today’s work was “sponsored” by top 80’s rock videos, but at the time the pic was taken, there was a guest singer that was out of place, but always welcome. All the panels were mocked-up, then removed, cleaned up and packaged for transport/powder coat. As a side note, the spray can of “Goof Off” works amazingly to remove sharpie ink and finger prints. Next step is steering and suspension.210519

I have no grounds for comparison, but I felt like I had a TON of space in the foot box. With the chairs back and unmounted / flat on the floor, I could barely reach the front wall. (6’ tall)

[Tango]

Week 3-4 Update: 3/2/2025
I missed updating last week due to traveling to Annapolis to see my son. He is super excited about coming home in a week or two for Spring break and to be able to help with the build.
Ground covered:
1. Steering and front suspension installed.
2. Received rear diff, brakes, and some fuel system parts. (Forte Parts is awesome!)
3. Consolidated / inventoried all the raw metal parts and aluminum panels. 211041211042
4. Learned to sandblast and powder coat …. powder coated all the metal pieces (Matte Black) and most of the engine bay panels (Desert Charcoal Wrinkle). I was using the shop owner’s supply of powder, and while the color(s) look amazing, I ran out after the first handful of panels. More powder is on order. 211043211044211045

Lessons learned:
1. I was amazed at how satisfying the sandblasting and powder coating process is. The dude teaching me has an incredible shop and is very generously granting me access to it. At least a couple more hours of work to get through the remaining panels. I realize they will all be covered, but with only having to pay for additional powder, along with how they look, it is an easy choice to coat the rest of them.
2. It’s all in the prep work. I am super pleased with the results so far. The few areas that are not “perfect” are all my fault from inconsistent/rushed prep.
3. The only way I found to fill the front lower control arm grease fitting was with a a 90deg grease gun adapter (thanks Amazon).
4. Regarding the front hubs, @250Ft-Lbs the digital torque wrench was nice but superfluous….for me it is full send…all you got, boom 250 on the nose.

Outstanding Questions:
1. Does the brand new rear diff need to be painted before install and if so what all needs to be masked off? I have rustoleum primer and matte black engine enamel spray….do the bolts just get painted over?

Next Steps:
1. Powder coat the remaining panels
2. Install Front Brakes
3. Prep rear end components (Cut & drill the rear spindles, Replace the rear lugs & drill the differential).
4. Install Rear End components: Diff, Suspension & Brakes (Father/Son tasks for week after next over his Spring break)

[gbranham]

I primed and painted my rear diff entirely. I left the blue caps in the axle bosses, but full send everywhere else.

211053211054

[Tango]

Thanks, that’s what i was thinking, but needed to confirm. Appreciate the response.

[Tango]

Week 5 Update: 3/10/2025
From all the MK4 threads I have read I knew the differential install was going to be tricky….but maybe that was all resolved with the MK5. I was thankful to have my son home from college (Naval Academy) to lend a hand.

Ground covered:
1. Front brakes installed.211353
2. More progress on Powder coating. Approx 75% through all the panels with the largest ones from the trunk remaining.
3. Differential painted, installed….and then repainted.211356
4. Rear brakes and suspension components are assembled / prepped for installation.211355

Lessons learned:
1. The Wiwood rotor safety wiring went from being a nightmare where I was googling local shops that would do it, to being rather satisfying once I started to get the hang of it. I ended up using the 9” pliers and returning the 6” as they did not work as well for me. My rear kit was missing one of the safety bolts, so I contacted Wilwood and they were super quick to ship a replacement.
2. There has been zero exaggeration on just how tricky and tight the differential fit is. I think we used half the tools in my shop but finally got it in. Ultimately it was a home made guide pin that got the front 2 bolt holes aligned. 211358 I remember reading somewhere on here about that idea….whomever posted it, I thank you. I promised my son that once we got past that task we would have some easier components to tackle with the rear suspension and brakes.

Outstanding Questions:
1. The front mount bolts on the differential are torqued to 100 ft-lbs…There is still a slight gap where the inner sleeve did not pull all the way back into the mounting grommet. Do I a)leave it at the torque spec or b) over tighten to pull the sleeve further into the grommet…then back it off and retighten to spec? (I am leaning towards b but would like to confirm) 211357

Next Steps:
1. Finish coating panels
2. Install rear suspension and brakes
3. Install gas tank
4. Start on pedal box

[gbranham]

Nice job! I also had the gap where the sleeve meets the grommet. If memory serves, I hogged out a large washer to put under the nut to cover the gap. I learned pretty quickly with my Wilwood safety wire that it was easiest if I ran a couple of screws into my workbench to act as wheel lugs, to hold the rotor. That freed up my 2nd hand to work much quicker and easier.

Greg

[Tango]

Week 6 Update: 3/16/2025
I had a BLAST this week working alongside my son during his spring break. I would stay up late staging for the next day’s tasks and let him drive the pace. Overall I am pleased with our progress but more so with the quality time. 211542


Ground covered:
1. IRS and sway bars are complete.
2. Gas tank is installed, fuel line is planned/purchased.
3. Rear brakes test installed (not loctite-ed/torqued).
4. Pedal box is installed. (Excluding the coyote accelerator).
5. 95% of panels are coated (nose aluminum and trunk drop box remain).

Lessons learned:
1. Sandblasting the big pieces of aluminum was a bear. Very awkward to maneuver them in the booth and I saved the largest ones for last.
2. The gas tank install was surprisingly tricky…required a little team work.
3. We had a minor issue with the rear sway bar bolts being a touch too long. I have heard accounts of just the opposite from other MK5 builders., not a big deal, easy fix.
4. When referring to a small-ish bolt….“make it snug” has varying meanings and outcomes …. see question1.

Outstanding Questions:
1. While installing the pedal box, we sheared the head off a bolt.211543 I have been unable to extract it. I anticipate an issue when it comes time to install the (coyote) clutch switch which I believe uses that bolt. I think I have a solution, short of replacing the entire pedal mount, but how concerned should I be?
2. I am waiting to run my brake lines until I receive the brake booster (on back order), would moving on to panel installation create any conflicts?
3. Now that my suspension is installed, what/when do I worry about a basic alignment? From just an eyeball, the front looks good, the rear however…that’s why I am asking this question.211545211544

A lot of questions this week….any feedback is appreciated.

Next Steps:
1. Final install of rear brakes
2. Turn signal & steering column assembly
3. Organize the coated panels

Final thoughts: I received my POL’ed raw metal FFR side pipes this week. I plan to Cerakote them myself which will be new to me. I have started researching the process and if that goes well then I will order raw headers from Gas-N and perform the same coating. Any advice would be appreciated.

[PNWTim]

I am guessing you need that bolt corrected. It's probably a bit galled inside but I would see if you can drill it and get an easy out in there to remove it.

[PMD24]

Following your thread with great interest.

A few comments that may be helpful.
> When I installed my differential, I called FFR about the gap at the bolts. They assured me that it is normal, filling with a washer is not necessary, and that the differential isn't going anywhere, once it's in place and secured.
> I agree that an easy-out should remove that broken screw. If not, drill it out slightly and tap it for the next size up. Even though it's a post you should have room.
> You're a ways from needing to address alignment. Watch Erik Treves' MK5 Beta videos. He's got some preliminary alignment info in the last one. Also lots of great info here in the forum on alignment, and many experts to provide guidance. I'm not at that point yet on my MK4 build but have been doing my homework as I'd like to learn to do it myself.

Pat

[Tango]

Thanks for the responses. No luck with the e-z out, but I do have a solution that will allow me to bolt the clutch switch in place. I have a new larger clutch MC on order with my engine from Forte and will address it after that arrives. I was able to put together the turn signal assembly which is about a 3 minute job if you take your time. 211636211637 I am traveling through this weekend so no more expected progress until next week….Before leaving I could not resist the urge to see the now coated panels back on the frame so I very loosely installed them with screws and couple clecos. I was surprised I got the puzzle assembled without the use of my notes..iI’ll admit it did take a minute or two. I will post better pictures when I return but I took these real quick with my iPad….211633211634211635

[Tango]

I knew it was only a matter of time until the “newness” of the MK5 would be an issue. Following 2 days of wrestling with the steering column I pulled out my vernier calipers for some detailed measurements and an attempt to save my sanity. The following is what I sent to FFR this morning:

“We have 2 issues related to the steering column. The middle shaft (according to the manual) is supposed to be 12.5”. The one supplied in the kit is 15” which creates all kinds of fitment issues. Additionally there is a problem with the upper shaft which is too thick and will not fit into the sleeve. The middle shaft measures 13.82mm thick (on the flat side) and fits perfectly in the sleeve which measures 13.91mm wide. The upper shaft measures 14.59mm wide and no amount of force makes it seat in the sleeve far enough even without the Belleville washers. Upon taking these measurements I reached out to another MK5 builder and they confirmed the same measurements (and they are currently experiencing the same issues). I wanted to check with you all before cutting and sanding anything”

We will see what they have to say, but I am assuming these are parts from a coupe that got shipped mistakingly. In the meantime, I have made some solid progress on panel installation.

More to follow and a proper update with pictures once I hear back from FFR.

[burchfieldb]

I have done a bunch of parts with the C series air cure Cerakote. Super important to follow the directions and practice a lot before spraying actual parts. It is really easy to get different results when spraying. If you use the 2 part, you will want to use the graduated cylinder that they sell to measure the correct mix ratio. Our painter at my office learned the hard way. He did an intial small batch test spray measuring with the graduated cylinder and it came out perfect. The next batch was much larger, so he used a paint mixing cup and after it cured it did not match the color sample. You can also get sample color chips from Cerakote. Also make sure to get the mesh strainer. As long as you follow the directions closely, it will turn out well.

Brent

[Tango]

Week 11: 4/12/2025
It’s been a while since a legit update, but there has been progress. The next few entries will be post dated and recapping some of that progress to get everything up to date.

Ground Covered:
1. FFR’s response and the final resolution to the steering column issues: After about a week I reached back out and was told that they recognize there was an error but I should try to cut the rod and mill the upper shaft to fix it…..that is what I had planned to do but was hesitant without confirmation. It turned out to be a 5 minute exercise with a belt sander and dremel tool.
2. Extra stuff powder coating: Years ago I was all in on Harley’s and everything had to be chromed out. On this project I want the focus to be on the lines of the car and the details not the bling…so I have opted to go with the black out approach. Here are a few of the bits and pieces after they got coated:

Lessons learned:
1. While I was a little disappointed at how FFR chose to solve the problem for me, hopefully the issue will be addressed for future kits. I have since heard from one builder that they have replacement parts on the way.
2. The gas cap was not at all as hard to disassemble/reassemble as I anticipated. I had a backup plan if the sandblasting and powder coating did not go well but I am very pleased with the results. The key piece was the nail set (pictured) and a soft protective surface. Apologies for not having before / during / after pics…but it was a non-event. (Related question below)
3. I personally prefer the clear with black side markers but provided the pictures for comparison. I received the source from previous posts but here is the receipt for reference. Word of warning, after powder coating the trim rings are super tight. They will go on, but they are tight.
4. Maybe I should have slowed down when reassembling the mirror, let’s hope there is not 7 years of bad luck coming my way.

Outstanding questions:
1. Can someone explain the purpose of the washers that go into the upper steering shaft? I do not understand that.
2. As seen in the picture, I did not powder coat the neck of the gas cap. I was concerned that there might be some conflict between the the gas and powder coat. Is that a thing or is there nothing to be concerned about there? I suppose I could mask off or plug the interior of the gas cap neck, but that did not occur to me until I got everything reassembled.

Next Steps:
Wilwood EPB Calipers
Reservoirs Install
Find someone with the NRG template
*****For some reason I am not able to add photos…..I will try again later.****

[PMD24]

Your photos do not come through in the post.

The spring washers are to take up the slack in the fit to prevent the inner and outer shaft from rattling, while still allowing for it collapse if needed during an accident. I've read where some folks have had very sloppy fits between the shafts and have tapped the outer sleeve and inserted set screws with very light pressure on the inner shaft.

Pat

[Tango]

That does make sense. Thank you for the explanation. I feel 1% smarter now.

[Tango]

I had a really…really big weekend working on the car….and I had a little help. A few weeks ago I reached out to Brent @ Snakebite Motorworks and shared a few ideas/concepts for new MK5 specific products. Turns out he is not only super smart but also a really nice dude. We exchanged messages/images and he even paid me a visit to get specific measurements off of the MK5. A few weeks later (this weekend) he came back with some prototypes and working together we were able to get them fitted on the car. After he announces the new products I will post some pictures but I can say they turned out better than I imagined all due to his ingenuity and expertise. I am super pleased. I was also able to incorporate several of his existing coupe specific products into my MK5 which really work well. More details and pictures to follow soon, but be on the lookout for some exciting news from Snakebite Motorworks.

[cv2065]

Sounds like you are off to a good start. Just for future reference, there are some pieces that don’t need to be disassembled during powder coat. Those are the gas cap, rear view mirror and hood/trunk latches as there is no plastic inside. Fuel will ultimately eat through the powder coat if it’s allowed to sit on the surface.

[Tango]

Great advice. I have been able to get some really good powder coating results on the hood/trunk locks and the gas cap. It has been stressful and fun working through the more intricate parts like the lights and trim bezels. The biggest WOW has been from PC’in the shifter, the steering hub and the visor/wind wing hardware.

[Tango]

Happy Father’s Day to all those dad’s out there. My daughter came home for the weekend and asked if we could spend the day working on the car……Yea, my jaw dropped and of course I said yes. She now knows how to work the rivet gun. I have lots of past due updates including mounting/balancing the wheels/tires, basic alignment, Cerakoting headers/pipes(they are still curing), and a few custom mods with the help of Snakebite Motorworks…..this post is about Father’s Day, so cheers. Here is a picture of my helper for the day along with a few spoilers of things to be announced soon.215167

[gbranham]

I can't think of a better Father's Day gift. That's so awesome that your daughter wants to work on the car. You're making precious memories.

Greg

[Tango]

As mentioned I have a lot of updates to post, but I will start with some work that occurred this weekend. I received my Gas-N headers on Friday and learned to Cerakote this weekend. The product itself is not all that expensive ($170 kit including gun) although having it “done” seemed ridiculous @ over $1200 for pipes, headers and heat shields. I purchased the Glacial Black kit and only used about 1/2 the bottle for all the parts listed as well as a few test wrenches to get the feel for spraying. The results are primo and while intimidating, the process was a lot of fun. The key seems to be in the prep. I used the box that the pipes came in and a plastic drop cloth to form a make shift degrease tank. About $20 of simple green concentrate from Walmart, a cheap siphon and some 5 Gal buckets to offload it when done. I also got a pop up spray tent from amazon ($50) that worked really well. I did 2 rounds of heating/out-gassing once after degreasing and again after sand blasting/blow off. I do this type of big work (powder coating, sand blasting etc) at a friend’s shop so I donated the gun and tent to his equipment arsenal. I will post final pics once the curing is complete. A few points to consider/take aways: The DIY paint shaker/saw-zaw hack and bike stand for hanging parts worked great. The pipes take a while to drain. Lighting is more important than I expected in examining the work to ensure proper coverage. Have a contingency plan for what to do if the soak tank/box gets compromised….that is a lot of degreaser which will flex the box and find a way out. My friends shop floor is MUCH cleaner than when we started.215181215178215177215176215180

[Tango]

Not perfect, but I love the results!!!215288

[Tango]

I had the opportunity to go to the LCS this past weekend. More cobras in one place than I ever expected. I left with a few observations that I thought I would share:
1. Total Sensory Overload: Max I have seen maybe 2 cobra’s/replicas side by side before. When you get dozens, then hundreds it is astounding. Every one was different, and each was built with a vision and treated with love.
2. Star Struck: My digital “idea board” has images that I have captured along the way from surfing and videos of things that I really like and want to incorporate into my build. Central to all of them is one build that I call the “Bo Derrick” cobra. It is the one that I always come back to and most closely represents what I am working towards. 10 minutes after arriving at LCS, there she was….I froze and my jaw dropped. I introduced myself to the owner/builder and explained my appreciation for his attention to detail. (He is on this forum and I hope he reads this and gets a kick out of it). He graciously accepted my compliments and then offered his passenger seat for the parade the next morning.
3. Even the cool kids welcomed the new dude: I had the opportunity to meet several folks who have probably forgotten more about these cars than I have yet to learn. Folks like J. Kliner, EdwardB, Erik Torres and several others. Without exception they all were very welcoming and polite. It was then that I realized it is more of a community thing and everyone there shared is a common weirdness and that made us all cool in the same way.
4. New vocabulary: Both my wife and I each got to experience our first Cobra ride. She was in the car in front of and following the ride (burn out) I heard some language that is typically reserved for when I really mess something up. My response was to explain that soon we would be able to do that in front of our neighborhood whenever we wanted to.
5. New Confidence: Seeing the field of vehicles most of which were in completed form, made me feel better about my progress, successes, mistakes and path forward.
6. The Future: On the ride home my wife told me we are going back next year….and I told her that my car will be in the parade next year even if it is wearing its blue gel coat.
7. Thanks: The folks at the Ohio Cobra Club put on a wonderful event and I know Brent from Snakebite Motorworks played a really big part in making it all happen. To him and all those involved, thanks for putting it all together.

[Tango]

One last point…..I got to formally introduce myself to the KY Cobra Club group. Cool people, super welcoming. The side benefit….one of the fellas there (I do not recall his name but they were all very nice) had Factory Five MK1 #01. The very first one built by Dave and his brother. It was kind of cool to look it over and see back 30 years in time.

[Tango]

Big weekend. Engine is in. Here is the crew that made it happen.215782

Here is what I wish I had know ahead of time:

1. El-cheap-o HF load leveler is not what you want, get the more robust one that cost $10 more…get it now or get it later, but that is the one you want.
2. Jack stands are fine for the engine install, but not at max height….nose down @ss up worked best for us.
3. Plan for what your lift points/bolts/brackets will be. It does not just work. I have a brand new crate engine and was not stoked to have a chain rub all over it…..the Coyote engine is not small and lifting it is a deal…not a big deal, but not a small deal either.
4. 4 sets of hands seemed like the right number. Sure it could have been done with less and at times there were some idle hands, but it was the right number for us.
5. Rookie mistake on my part, the engine needs to come back out (at least a little) to remove the exhaust manifold studs and install the headers.
6. WAIT on everything, like the AC setup, the radiator, almost everything else….but know what you plan to do with the battery before you put the engine in.
7. The negative grounding strap is really tough (for me at least) to install in the default location (particularly with an AC compressor on the engine). The easy button approach is to tap a new hole at the location of your choosing and loose the nut.
8. I have been in contact with FFR, and am waiting on an answer……in the MK5 manual they show a bracket which they told me is for the MK4….I did not receive this bracket, but I did receive the hardware/spacer/shims shown in the diagram in my kit inventory. Looking at my MK5, Gen 4x Coyote, TKX set up, something seems off.215783215784

[danmas]

Congrats! I put my engine in a total of three times. Each time went better. The right engine leveling tool is essential! Feels good doesn’t it?

[Tango]

Very good feeling having the engine in…..it opens up a list of important tasks that start to really show progress. As for an update from FFR, I was told to just reverse the trans mount bracket which aligns the slots correctly…..but I needed to remove a small slot from the bracket to prevent it from interfering with the bottom of the transmission. For Father’s Day I received the Milwaukee M12 cutoff tool….that thing is amazing! I am waiting to bolt the entire thing down until I install the headers but everything lines up nicely now. 215825

[Tango]

I spent a good deal of time today working on a custom bracket for around the battery that ultimately was a fail and I have resigned to the fact that it needs to be rebuilt. That is when I needed a quick pick me up, and I wanted to try the new AC line crimping tool that I just got off of Amazon for about $100. I had no idea how satisfying it is to use the pneumatic crimper…it was actually fun. I made about half the lines and they all look spectacular. Time will tell if they actually work correctly215837

[Tango]

The headers have been on my Gen 4x Coyote for about 2 weeks…..Yes the driver side is tight. It has been gradual progress and feels like a rite of passage but I have learned to appreciate the sweet click of a torque wrench. Today I finally gained access to the remaining 2 header bolts and got them snugged down. Knowing I will need to repeat this process I wanted to make sure I had a good system down. I sincerely hope this helps others…….There is a cheat code. I started with swivels, extensions, wobble sockets, you name it I was trying it. Today, the code was revealed. It is a $6 stubby (9/16…or whatever flavor you need) socket purchased off of amazon. With it, and a standard torque wrench I can tag every header bolt in under 5 minutes. As a reward….or as a reminder for me when I am searching, this little guy (socket) earned a gold stripe (paint pen)!216911

[Tango]

I am rounding the corner on the mk5 Gen4x Coyote install, and I have a question…..what is this plug for? Drivers side just above the alternator. I feel like this is a dumb question….but I do not know the answer.217137

[Tango]

Ok I think I found the answer…..”In a Ford Coyote Gen 4 engine, the plug just above the alternator on the left-hand side of the block is typically for the water temperature sender (coolant temperature sensor).
This port is used for an optional block heater in production vehicles. However, when performing an engine swap or installing aftermarket gauges, it can be used to install the water temperature sender to monitor the coolant temperature.
It's important to note that the reading from this location might be slightly different from the coolant temperature reading obtained directly from the ECU. Some sources suggest this location gives you the coolant temp entering the engine, while another location might provide the temperature exiting the engine.”

So the question changes a little….having installed the water temp per the engine install instructions, that means this plug is not used?

[Tango]

I think I solved the riddle. I have been stressing over the coolant runs for the upper and lower radiator for a little bit and I thought I would show my answer so that I can get feedback and possibly help others:

All in upper and lower radiator setup…all 1.5”inner diameter:
1. 1x 90 deg silicone hose
2. 2x 45 deg silicone hose (flange length is important..see link)
3. 1x union (link is for a 2 pack)
4. 1x 11.8” aluminum pipe (I plan to powder coat it black)
5. 1x 8” strait silicone hose (used for the upper)
6. 1x fuel filter bracket (used to secure the coolant tube through the front drivers side cross brace)
7. 7x gates power grip 32948 (they come in a 10 pack….or use whatever clamp approach you choose)
A few cuts are required but it’s not rocket surgery. Here are some (upside down) pics of the lower run, mocked up but not clamped:
217504217505

Links to the products used:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C9982DPG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
https://a.co/d/fWb9Sdd
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BCWFFSWV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CKQXY9NN?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CT3LSNY8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GB73PRD?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
https://a.co/d/cgTk7a6

[Mike.Bray]

You know silicone hoses will leach don't you?

Did you roll beads in the aluminum tube to retail the hoses?

[Tango]

Thanks Mike for raising the question and both are great points……yes to both. I am OK with the silicone leaching, and the aluminum tube I am using already has the beads. Today, I took the advice that I have read on the forum regarding pre-first start prep, and I am really glad that I did. I put gas in the tank and powered the fuel pump off a 12v source just to check the plumbing and set the pressure regulator. I had several (3) points along the gas line that needed attention including one back by the fuel filter which was a swivel where I could not get a good seal. I was able to change it out and now everything is tight, holding pressure and ready for the first start. My plan is to crank it this weekend when a friend who helped with the engine install will be over for dinner. More to follow after we wake up the neighbors.

[Tango]

Big day! She came to life. Of course I wanted it to be perfect and smooth, but it was not….more good than bad and I learned from it. Here are some of my steps/takeaways which might help others:
1. Primed the fuel line and set the pressure.
2. Disconnected fuel pump and cranked a few times to get oil pressure.
3. Very glad I chose to roll it outside. Had an issue with the heater, more specifically the hose/flange on the inside of the passenger foot box….not sealing at all. I will need to remove some of the heat shielding which I believe is preventing the hose from threading all the way onto the bulkhead fitting. For a short term fix I just routed the out back to the in on the heater control valve (the thing on the top of the passenger foot box).
4. Had an issue not being able to shift into gear (once the engine was running). I realized that I did not do a sufficient job bleeding the clutch and was able to do so by removing the trans cover and accessing the bleed port. Took a few tries but got it done.
5. Ride hight was crazy low. I think I misunderstood the guidelines in setting basic ride hight and did it with the car in the air rather than under weight.

Other than that…..the day was a success. I am not a fan of videos of myself, but I realize that without one it did not happen so…so here it is.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vjdakOEkom6GghsV0antwnMRda1K9M_n/view?usp=drivesdk

[burchfieldb]

Nice work! You got me beat and it is all coming together.

[cv2065]

Congrats! Big milestone.