8secDuster's Type 65 Coupe

[8secDuster]

It has been about a year in the making, but I was finally able to pull the trigger on a new Type 65 kit.
Earlier this year, I decided to sell my restored 68 Barracuda Formula S 340.
I originally bought that car to drive, but decided to perform a rotisserie restoration on it once I discovered the low number of cars known to exist.
The car came out pretty nice, earning a O.E. Concourse Gold Certification (981 pts out of 1000) at the 2021 Muscle Car and Corvette Nationals (MCACN) car show in Chicago.
We had pretty good luck with it, as it was featured in Magazines and in a Mopar Calendar. Not too bad for a "Garage Car"
However, now I didn't want (afraid) to drive it. Body Parts a getting hard to find for them if something were to happen to it.
So I figured I would sell it to try and find a driver quality clone Superbird or Hemi Car to possibly replace it.
Talking to a good friend (CW_MI) about it, he brought up Factory Five. I told him that I have always liked their Roadsters, but I really dig their Coupes.
It was then that I started looking into builds. The more I researched them, the more I wanted one.
I have had Hot Rod's, Stock Muscle Car's, and Drag Race Cars. But at this point in my life, I realized I wanted something different, and a Coupe checked all the boxes for me.
So earlier this month the Barracuda sold, and I called FFR and placed my order. Completion date is the end of December. Tentatively shipping the first of January.
I have taken many notes and ideas from several really nice builds on this site. But after seeing and sitting in Paul & Sharon's car over the summer, it Sealed the Deal for me.

My plan with this build is to "loosely" pay homage to CSX-2299.



THE CAR

Complete Coupe Kit
Gas-N 1-3/4" 302 Headers
FFR SS Exhaust
3-Link Suspension
Wilwood Brakes
Koni's
Roadster Seats
Carpet Kit
Side Windows
Vintage GPS Gauges
Power Steering
Air Conditioning
Hydraulic Clutch Kit
Coupe Scoop Set
Sway Bar
Body Cut Outs


ENGINE / DRIVETRAIN

Competition Components 363" SBF Dart SHP Block
Dart Pro 1 Cylinder Heads CNC Ported 210cc
Ported Victor Jr Intake
Sniper 4150 EFI
Tremec TKX .81
Tremec Forward Shift Conversion
RAM Clutch and Hydraulic Release Bearing
Moser 8.8 with 3.55 Gears


WHEELS & TIRES

17'' x 9''
17'' x 11''
American Racing Shelby VN-427's
275 / 315 Nitto 555 G2's


ADDITIONAL VENDORS

Dart Machinery
Competition Components
Liberty Gears
Mancini Racing
KB Racecars
All-Cote Powder Cote
Breeze Automotive
Gas-N Performance
Tubular Auto
Howe
Moog
Aeromotive
Superbright
Specialty PW
Moroso
Jones Racing Products




COLOR / STRIPES

Blu Avio Metallic
Wimbledon White Stripes
Narrow or Wide Stripes - TBD
Roundels & Number - TBD




A pretty straightforward build that I'm really looking forward to, because this time, my son will be involved. He was too young when I did the Barracuda.
He's 18 now and slowly getting into cars. So I'm hoping this will give him the nudge needed to enjoy "old" cars.
Maybe not at the borderline Addiction Level I have been all my life. But to truly enjoy them as he gets older. Because one day, they're going to be his.
Then fingers crossed, once it's completed, he'll want to do a leg of Power Tour with it.



Thanks,

Mike

[JimStone]

Congratulations and good luck! These cars are a ton of fun to build, and FFR is wonderful to work with

[PNWTim]

Exciting to see another coupe builder! Mine is supposed to be loaded up at FFR this Friday for the trip out west.

[Smiley]

Congratulations Mike, my kit should be finished sometime after yours.

I’m looking forward to following your build.

[8secDuster]

I received The Call yesterday.
The weather has Stewart a little behind. So I should see it next Wednesday now.

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[Smiley]

Mike, congratulations, mine must be on the same truck as yours, they gave me a Thursday-Saturday window, I haven’t received “the call” yet firming it up.

Where are you located? Maybe I can guesstimate my delivery from there.

I look forward to following your build.

Steve

[Lemmingstyle]

Nice spec :cool:

[8secDuster]

Thanks Steve!
I'm just north of Detroit.
Todd from Stewart told me they have 6 cars coming to Michigan, and mine was tentatively set for Wednesday.
I'm not sure if all 6 were going to be on the same truck or not? He did not mention that?

[Smiley]

Thanks Mike, mine will probably be closer to Saturday then. Which is good, gives us a couple of days of warmer weather to melt what’s left of the ice and snow in the alley and in front of the overhead door.

[8secDuster]

Looks like the end of this week, a little more weather is coming across Michigan and heading east, right towards Massachusetts. Followed by bitter cold.
Hopefully it's not too bad, and safe to travel. I was originally told mine would be delivered today.
Normally, because I snowmobile, hearing snow in the forecast makes me tingle. This season is going to be a little different...

[460.465USMC]

Congrats and welcome aboard, Mike!

[8secDuster]

Thanks Chris !
I have been following your build. Looking Good !

[8secDuster]

The last couple of weeks have been a roller coaster ride, but my Coupe has finally made it home to Michigan.
Had a few friends over to help make short work of the unloading process.
Mark from Stewart couldn't have been a nicer guy!
I started the inventory and found 1 boo-boo so far. FF sent me an IRS hardware kit instead of the 3-Link kit.
I still have about 25 boxes to go.

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[Smiley]

Congratulations Mike, pretty great day isn’t it. Have fun counting boxes.

[8secDuster]

Congratulations Mike, pretty great day isn’t it. Have fun counting boxes.

Yes it was! Good Stuff

[CW_MI]

How many boxes did it end up being , Mike ?

[8secDuster]

I think there were 38.
I'm missing a couple little things like fasteners and such..ndb, but, I am missing a biggie, the entire Ron Francis wire harness kit.
It had a check on the inventory sheet, but it's not there?
I found that everything missing did have a check next to it... Is this common?
I'm filling out my MIK list now, I hope there isn't any issues getting this harness.
They also included the wrong rear end hardware / fastener kit. I was sent an IRS kit, but have a 3-Link in the car.

[Higgybulin]

There will be no issues with the missing items!! Factory Five will make it right, no worries!
Higgy
(Just outside of Windsor)

[8secDuster]

Thanks Higgy.

What does this circle with a slash through it mean?
I have a couple of these as well.


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[Skuzzy]

Thanks Higgy.

What does this circle with a slash through it mean?
I have a couple of these as well.


209691

That is a zero. That is how we made them in the military. It differentiates them from an "O".

[8secDuster]

That is a zero. That is how we made them in the military. It differentiates them from an "O".

I'm sorry Skuzzy, I should have been a little more detailed with my question.
I'm not sure what that represents? I assume Backordered?

[PNWTim]

I'm sorry Skuzzy, I should have been a little more detailed with my question.
I'm not sure what that represents? I assume Backordered?

It means it did not make it into your kit delivery. Considered part of your POL or parts that were not available when they packed up your kit. They will come trickling in over time, I think mine took about 30 days all in.

[edwardb]

Anything with a zero on the inventory sheets should correspond to an entry on your POL (Backorder) list. It's easy enough to cross check. Obviously anything that's reported as delivered on the inventory sheets, not on the POL, and unaccounted for during your physical inventory, should be reported as MIK (Missing in Kit). Factory Five will set up a new sales order for those items. At least that how everything worked in the past for me. Before the new ERP system they're using now.

[8secDuster]

Thanks Tim and Paul.
I just received an email back from FF addressing my MIK list confirming just that.

[8secDuster]

It has been about 2 months since receiving my Coupe, and I have to say, I am really enjoying the build process.
Everything so far has been pretty straight forward, with only a few minor issues, and one large one that F5R took care of right away.
Here are some pictures of where we are at.

My Son
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Front and Rear Suspensions are in
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Snakebite Trunk installed
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Drill, Drill, Drill
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[8secDuster]

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[8secDuster]

Pedal Box
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Snakebite's Foot Box Extension
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[burchfieldb]

Looking good! I feel like the drilling never ends!

[8secDuster]

Thanks Brent, Man... that's for sure!
Almost done though, then off they go to Powder Cote.

[8secDuster]

For the last month, I have been taking advantage of the “slow” in-between winter and spring season, and have been able to make more progress on my Coupe.
All panels have been drilled and fitted. Radiator tunnel panels are out at the Powder Coaters.
Brake lines are in. Front and rear harnesses are in. Added a circuit to those for fog lights and reverse lights.
Gauges and turn indicator harnesses are trimmed up and in place, just need to complete the heat/a.c. panel.
Going to try and locate the heat valve inside the car.


One of these days, I'll get this adding picture thing figured out...


Panels
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Brake Lines
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Dash Harness Trimmed and Installed
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[8secDuster]

Wheels and Tires came in, so, pretty close to being a roller.

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My brother has the rear body work is in 150, and was able roll it outside to get a little S.E. Michigan vitamin D this past weekend.
He will be starting on the nose shortly.

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[PNWTim]

Looking good!

[JimStone]

Those are some shiny Halibrands!

[burchfieldb]

The build is shaping up nicely. What wheels did you go with.

[8secDuster]

Thank you.
American Racing VN427's 17x9's and 17x11's

[8secDuster]

Got-er rolling this past weekend. Dropped in the Mock Block and Heads as well.

[PNWTim]

Almost ready for a spin around the block!

[8secDuster]

I just need to wire in the door switches once the doors are hung, and the Dome & Courtesy Lights will be finished.
Door and key on / off operated


https://vimeo.com/1081570374?fl=pl&fe=sh

[8secDuster]

The last couple of months, I have been working on electrical. Like many, I put the RF harness on a diet, added circuits, and terminated everything using weather pack style connectors. I've added a Power Disconnect, Toggle Switch Panel, Reverse Lights and a dash mounted Reverse Indicator Light. Frank's (I.E. 427) Turn Signals, Low Oil Pressure Indicator light, a high mount 3rd Brake Light. Radiator Fan Override, Interior Dome Lighting with key on/off fading, a pair of Map Lights, Door Pockets with Phone Chargers, and a single LED inside the door pocked for night time low intensity illumination. So finally after a few months, the wiring is about 90% complete. I just need to terminate the A.C. and Windshield Wiper Motor when the fire wall panel is back from the Powder Coater and also the E.F.I. ECU when I receive the engine. Body is trimmed around the Door and Hatch Hinges, and lower frame rails. The body will come back off for Lizard Skin once the engine is here (hopefully in a few weeks), and all of the aluminum panels are back from the Powder Coater so I can get those installed and the interior shot with Lizard Skin Thermo and Sound Deadener. And I shortened up a set of 70 Mopar (Duster - Dart) Wiper Arms as well. The drivers side is 12" and the passenger side is 11" so it does not hang off of the windshield.



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[8secDuster]

Tail, Brake, Turn, 4-Way and Reverse Lights


https://vimeo.com/1105118518?fl=pl&fe=sh

[8secDuster]

I.E. 427 Horn


https://vimeo.com/1103759951?fl=pl&fe=sh

[8secDuster]

Engine Cooling Fan Override


https://vimeo.com/1103760408?fl=pl&fe=sh

[8secDuster]

Dash "In Reverse" Indicator


https://vimeo.com/1105116256?fl=pl&fe=sh

[PNWTim]

You've been pretty busy! Thanks for sharing

[8secDuster]

You've been pretty busy! Thanks for sharing

You as well Tim. Looking Good!
I dig your gauges!

[JimStone]

You're making good progress. Even have a bunch of body work done. Do you plan on painting it yourself too?

I couldn't get the videos to work (says they are private), but pics look great!

[burchfieldb]

Man, you have been getting it done since we last talked.

Brent

[8secDuster]

Really??? Ugh... I'll see if I can figure that out? I swear... I have had more problems posting on this forum than all others that I have been on combined.

Yes Jim... well, kinda. My brother will.
He paints for a living. Him and I will paint it. He worked for several years at a restoration shop here north of Detroit that did a lot of restoration for General Motors. He's painted about a dozen cars in their Heritage Collection. And also one of the trains at the Detroit Zoo.

[8secDuster]

Thanks Brent!

I'm really trying to get it show worthy for the Detroit Autorama next March.

[TBull]

So Mike, in your introduction, I saw that you listed Dart manufacturing. No need for that aftermarket block unless you are planning something special for the powerplant. May I be nosey and ask? Also what are your plans for the build once done? Autocross, track, Cruising? All are good and go into the decisions in the build. You are moving right along. I'm jealous.

[8secDuster]

Sorry Tbull.. I deleted my long winded post. The more I read it, the more snarky it sounded. That was not my intention.

My goal with this build is pretty simple, to have a Fast Street Car. A 60's Supercar. A race car on the street. Something Old but New. Primitive but Modern. Unrefined but Classy. Lol...Maybe not so simple?
I'm really very fortunate to have friends that work in cool places help me out on this build. I was able to put together this 363 the way I wanted for a little less than what a Blueprint 347 cost.

Thanks

[460.465USMC]

Wow! You're cruising right along, Mike. I really like your dash setup. Clean, not crowded. I want to do something similar. Curious which switch panel you used, and did they also supply the labels as well? I'm leaning toward a switch panel on my build as well. Thanks for sharing.

[8secDuster]

Thanks Chris.
I used the New Vintage panel. It's a really nice piece.
Yes, it comes with a series of Standard Labels, and 12 different Dip-Switch adjustable lighting color options. Pretty Cool.
They are very proud of this panel, especially when you customize the labels.
But like most projects... What's another drop of water when you are drowning!
I called them and cried a little about the price, and they gave me a -10% discount code to use when I ordered through their website.

If it was hard to see, I went the custom label route.
This is how I configured mine

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https://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerce.com/toggle-switch-panels/

[8secDuster]

Gauges are Done. Love how they sweep.
I also added a Speedhut Zero Dimmer to dim the dash lights. https://speedhut.com/gauge-accessories/zero-dimmer-for-led-lit-gauges/
I tapped it into my switch panel as well, so it will dim both the gauges and the panel.
Its a pretty cool little piece. It allows you to adjust the brightness for both daytime and nighttime driving.

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https://vimeo.com/1106432437?fl=pl&fe=sh

[460.465USMC]

Nice! My mind is the same as yours on the Zero Dimmer. Saw it on MSummers build and ordered a few days ago. Nice bonus is how it returns the gauges to zero. Not a huge deal, but it was kind of goofy on my MK4 to see them "hang" at last known position when ignition was shut off.

[8secDuster]

Agreed ! It's the simple things, right?
The brightness is not exactly the same as the the switch panel when you dim, but it's pretty close.

[8secDuster]

All of my aluminum panels are now back from the powder coater.
Decided to go body color with most of the panels. The foot boxes and all underside floorboard panels will all be body color. The dashboard, rear hatch side and back panels, and splash shields are satan black.
We are going to paint the car Blu Avio. A Ferrari color.

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[burchfieldb]

Looks nice!

[8secDuster]

Assembled the dash this weekend. I wanted to stick with the uncluttered, racecar vibe, so instead of adding a second set of round A.C. vents to the face of the dash, I bought another set of defrost vents and mounted them on the back side of the dash, pointing downward into the footbox areas. On the passenger side, I mounted a bracket to the lower inside lip of the dash, and on the driver's side, I mounted the vent bracket on the top side of the steering shaft mount bolts. I will use 2 inch hoses for those as well as the windshield defrost vents. Not sure if needed, but I also added a little Kilsmat to the bottom side of the dash to keep it solid, and hopefully prevent any additional vibrations.

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[460.465USMC]

Good idea on the ducts to the footboxes. I'm thinking of doing the same for the same reasons you mention above. Your dash is becoming my primary inspiration for how I'd like to set up mine. One difference will be I bought the matching clock from Speedhut, so will need to fit it in somewhere. Great work!

[8secDuster]

Thanks Chris. Appreciate it.
Funny thing about the clock. I lengthened clock and gauge feed leads to reach the center/right side of the dash, and tapped the gauge feed into the Zero Dimmer to add a clock. Never puller the trigger on one though.
Now that the dash is powder coated, IDK... It still may happen, but we'll see.
Do you have a part number, or link to which one you bought? When I was looking at them, I wasn't sure which one it was.

I also added a little detailed touch to where I installed the Speedo, Tach and Fuel Configuration Buttons, as well as the Gauge Lights Zero Dimmer Button, and the Interior Lighting Fade Dimmer Button.
A friend owns a Laser Engraving business, https://www.triplesengraving.com/ so I had him "Label" Laser Etch, each of the config buttons. The font matches the gauges font.
Came out nice. And think it looks way better than a sticker label.

It's the little things.

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[460.465USMC]

Those etched labels are sweet! I might have to reach out to your friend when I get to that point.

Here's the link to the Speed hut clock that matches the F5 vintage gauges. The hands are white and illuminate just like the other gauges. If you decide to go for it, reach out and Rachel Henry will work with you.

https://speedhut.com/gauge-applications/legacy-classic-street-rod/led-lighting/classic-led-clock/2-5-8-classic-clock/?dd-link=0m67415i7qv

[burchfieldb]

Thanks Chris. Appreciate it.
Funny thing about the clock. I lengthened clock and gauge feed leads to reach the center/right side of the dash, and tapped the gauge feed into the Zero Dimmer to add a clock. Never puller the trigger on one though.
Now that the dash is powder coated, IDK... It still may happen, but we'll see.
Do you have a part number, or link to which one you bought? When I was looking at them, I wasn't sure which one it was.

I also added a little detailed touch to where I installed the Speedo, Tach and Fuel Configuration Buttons, as well as the Gauge Lights Zero Dimmer Button, and the Interior Lighting Fade Dimmer Button.
A friend owns a Laser Engraving business, https://www.triplesengraving.com/ so I had him "Label" Laser Etch, each of the config buttons. The font matches the gauges font.
Came out nice. And think it looks way better than a sticker label.

It's the little things.

217369217368

That looks really nice.

[Lugnut Mark]

Love the color of interior powder coated panels.

[8secDuster]

Thanks Mark.
It's Prismatic Powders, Light Blue Metallic.
It's going to be a shame to sand it and spray Lizard Skin all over it.
I dig the way the interior looks all blue.

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[8secDuster]

It feels like forever, but I think I'm finally in the home stretch with wiring.
I’ve made some extra work for myself by adding several "modern-ish" feature items.
I installed 3/4" LED Dome Lights and Foot Box lights that self-Dim when the doors are opened and closed.
Pivoting Driver and Passenger LED Map Lights that run through the Headlight Switch.
LED Reverse Lights with a small 5/16” LED “R” dash light that luminates when in reverse, and a matching 5/16” Low Oil Pressure LED dash light.
Remote Door Poppers with individual interior driver and passenger pop buttons mounted on the bottom flange of the dash.
High mount 3rd Brake Light removed from a 2020 Acura. (we’ll see how it works / fits down the road a little further)
And finally, I added Phone Chargers mounted inside of the driver and passenger Door Pockets with a single LED to slightly luminate the door pocket at night.



Here is the Door Popper module bracket I made. I mounted it on the square tube to the left of the master cylinders. I also made Linkage, instead of using the provided thin cable, for the Door Poppers out of small rod I had laying around.
A cool little feature the poppers have is it will flash the parking lights when you pop either of the doors.

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Looking around for Park Brake hanger ideas instead of using wire ties, I found these 3 – Piece, old school set from 98 – 02 Camaro’s / Trans Am’s that ended up working out nicely. They are 2 different lengths and hold the cables away from the 3-Link suspensions components perfectly.

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I have the Breeze Big Bore Vent kit, so I bought an Evil Energy in-line fuel filter, and converted it into a Charcoal Canister to pair with the vent. It matches the Aeromotive Fuel Filter perfectly.

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Took advantage of the long weekend and trimmed the body area under the gas tank by 6” then took a long block with 80 grit and straightened out the cuts. I then taped off the entire car and sprayed the Lizard Skin SD on the inside of the body. Stuff goes everywhere.
Then sprayed the CI on the inside of the roof and on the inside of the rocker / exhaust areas. I know this isn't typically what has been done or used on other builds, but I found a gentleman on FB-MP (an 1/8 mile from the house) that had 6 gallons of the SD and 2 gallons of the CI with the gun for $500.
I bought it all and sprayed everything with Lizard Skin.

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Received my Headers from Gas-N. I stepped up to a 1-3/4" with a 3" SBF Square Port Flange. I also had them remove the ugly 3 bold collector flange and add their Band Clamp collector mount. Man these look nice!

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Changed up the A.C. control plate a little. No disrespect to FFR, just wanted to personalize it. Had a friend make a new vinyl cover.

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We also started the body work on the hood. Man.. what a mess up near the front wheel and radiator tunnel openings!
Going to take a lot of love to straighten those out.


Lastly.. the engine builder called. It should be ready to dyno in a couple of weeks!
Can't wait to get this giant piece of the puzzle in.

[460.465USMC]

Wow. Lots going on in your build, Mike. Some really cool features. Would you mind sharing the details on the interior lighting?

A few questions for you:
Trimming the area below the gas tank, is that for aesthetics, or is there a functional reason?
The Lizard Skin CI, how much was left after the roof and rocker panels? Do you think two gallons is enough for the whole underbody? Are you undercoating the nose as well?
Is that the brushed stainless finish on the Gas-N headers?

[8secDuster]

Thanks Chris
I used these Keing LED Lights. I fab-ed an aluminum plate and mounted it to the top of the roll bar. I have 3 up there and 1 in each dash corner cap pointing down into the foot box.

https://www.amazon.com/KEING-Waterproof-Trailer-Caravan-Warranty/dp/B08XVY9V8D/ref=sr_1_6_pp?crid=379MNGQJF83RE&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.MfiPUOTUPcgLz50NyUNHAfZotDOBXFXNJ Efg59rQGBWaMmKR-nuwkhUPlNzxGzGqYmgv2AsvBvVysGFkqzwlbj4IQ3LpKKJL15w tOyaZu0T1opzwqlea0ia0UP8Jp2kGtr_Tq206_NPYHWbsS_RjR oFDldC0x_Ok0MQqtaVXdQKLqF6p0zwZLBJCJCyudgJRRv_Gj-hdpVx4eCiN4zqQppOz4qS33vt-g2NAw_MwDn8hVxxmFvVD5xBETb1ck4-7F0CAr8hlwqfrF8jJRDDFbXEUBsmx6R-CkBZKYe7syjE.ZysbUCUSO3rG3OGVWlj2V712ze6YxktkIrvfP j1Q4Lo&dib_tag=se&keywords=3%2F4%2Bled%2Bmarker%2Blights&qid=1756843564&sprefix=3%2F4%27%2Bled%2Caps%2C170&sr=8-6&th=1


Then I found this Dimmer Module. It Bluetooth's through your phone to adjust your dim time. Doors open, lights come on. Key on, they slowly fade off. Just like new cars.

https://www.amazon.com/Dome-Light-Dimmer-Delay-Timeout/dp/B016B414PI/ref=sr_1_21?crid=3RVEB99PUL0XQ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.MjDIwx3utAgL-Z1Q1ykCbUt9pYBPhSndGc6gK5O79aa8pvz9x2MuesDELJeGPPY cjmf181pr5M72S52ZsuwvODXFqYEMjx6Ad-YQfDuzC-neUVefLu4hUhMpVBfhj37WLpzKUeula8b7L08uee5ek1s3642K Xu_omiRk7qEXHL8c8GjYln06ABXGm-H_OeiP.gH3muw4mhssXJUTJyPVHQyyjY8HfOzQ2mqsPbtKp8Ew&dib_tag=se&keywords=automotive+light+dimmer&qid=1756843671&sprefix=automotive+light+dimmer%2Caps%2C106&sr=8-21&xpid=QILlbit18U6R6

The end result makes me smile every time. Watching the interior light fade like a new car. I think this was the best 50 bucks spent on this car.


https://vimeo.com/1081570374?fl=pl&fe=sh


The Map lights are from SuperBright LED. They are mounted on the same panel as the dome lights. I tied them into the Headlight switch so you can turn them on while driving if necessary.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/led-map-dome-light-with-switch-aimable-12v-24v?utm_content=MLAS-WW1-B&utm_campaign=300_tROAS-Pmax&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20282521321&gbraid=0AAAAAD_v0v_hA-y_a04rWREoEbctAoaVd&gclid=EAIaIQobChMInoWvu_K6jwMV6mpHAR2VFwTQEAQYAiAB EgKnU_D_BwE


I read a few post where builders trimmed that area under the gas tank to make it easier to remove if you needed to. My cut line from the factory was Not Straight, so I wanted to make it nicer anyways.

I have sprayed all of the foot box panels and the body now and I think there is a little over a gallon left. I believe Lizard Skin states 2 gallons will cover 25sq-ft?

Yes. Brushed Finish on the headers.

[8secDuster]

https://vimeo.com/manage/videos/1081570374/e634deb893

[460.465USMC]

https://vimeo.com/manage/videos/1081570374/e634deb893

Sweet! Nice touch.

I'm going with Gas-N headers and side exhaust. I've been leaning toward the brushed stainless, but couldn't get a decent picture from Georgie. Thanks for the picture. I like the brushed stainless finish.

[bishes]

That dome light module is pretty slick! What are you using for the door open/closed sensors?

[8secDuster]

That dome light module is pretty slick! What are you using for the door open/closed sensors?

I bought a set of Door Pin Switches like these off of Amazon to try. They're activated by a ground.
I may try a set of Magnetic Switches if these Pin Switches don't work / fit.
Once the body is on permanently, and the doors are fitted, I'll tackle installing them.

https://www.amazon.com/DaierTek-Flange-Switch-Nickel-Universal/dp/B081MTFTDL/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1E5N2MY51DU79&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9._fD7_5cuj6_dp43IcnzCnpFKjeRckd-G2qXX0tWBR2oCKw9qmh1QVty4pC9y3mEiPxZlFfYILFMOzYL1w Dw9Lv9ObLKMhz6YFTVoXVBgUk4KdV9icj-dAIhGuSig-K1Ayo5YIEq8Yo7AYUOLtQ9nF6EkJQLbyC6YveoMkxerHNz8UGi xFcaBLXepOdU2YhInQuJenTURdvqVla-y26yatEmfOmY1fIROQeqw-QlFPG0.x2SrRf71rrkkYOXEcWlx38SDIpfId8Xe6L3a-hvxOE8&dib_tag=se&keywords=automotive+door+dome+light+pins&qid=1756903385&sprefix=automotive+door+dome+light+pins%2Caps%2C10 3&sr=8-2

[burchfieldb]

Nice work Mike, it is really coming together! What door poppers did you go with?

[8secDuster]

Thanks Brent.
They are Amazon specials with 50lb solenoids. It was kind of a last minute decision.

https://www.amazon.com/LLNSEAUTO-Solenoid-Poppers-Keyless-Universal/dp/B0BJZ2C2TC/ref=sr_1_6?crid=212GD6TRAIZ3M&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.BclL4h9256J38zW2up2MqSb3B1sE2bxo_ MnlpXJr-OAESj7CFfOTdF-4Lk9UXVi-GXw4r5vg3RrF2BCwOSPJxftPk_fQwq_HAALBrNYEV291UUInXh 08PqA9qncgI2vAgQ27BXgnxyayXHl4gzrH7V3Yj0flrHZoVsiA d76NeDVSaWWo3IlwtzaOI357oATE28lwFiMUM_oyGYUJvwBTMd 1Tbud_TgzzJITG079_Gy4.MPeBqxJkEA5F322y3DeUol6NL1X3 YmOerO9HVI8_OBE&dib_tag=se&keywords=door%2Bpopper%2Bkit&qid=1756987552&sprefix=door%2Bpopp%2Caps%2C112&sr=8-6&th=1

[burchfieldb]

Nice, I am looking for some.

[8secDuster]

Dyno day finally arrived at Apex Competition Engines!

After getting the Sniper 4150 set up and finding a couple of crossed plug wires while putting some heat into it (oops), we made a few short pulls to 4500 just to make sure everything looked good before stretching her legs.
Four pulls later to 6500 and only tweaking timing—we ended up with 535 HP and 472 ft-lb of torque.

Gotta admit, this fuel-injected hydraulic cam stuff is way easier to dial in than our old 528 big-block drag race motor. That one made 915 HP / 800 TQ. Between carb jetting, valve lash, timing, and carb spacers, it felt like we worn the poor thing out on the dyno before we ever made the first pass!


The Engine

363" Dart SHP Block
Dart Pro 1 Heads - CNC Ported 210cc
Victor Jr Intake - Port Matched
SCAT Rotating Assy
Mahle Pistons - 11 to 1
Sniper 4150 - Gold
Custom Ground Hyd-Roller by Scotty Brown of Competition Components in Okemos Mi.


Very pleased with the results from this little 363.
Pretty stout little package that should be a ball of fun to drive!

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Crappie video


https://vimeo.com/1130084334?fl=pl&fe=sh

[PNWTim]

I think that'll get 'er done

[JimStone]

Maybe you won't be doing wheelies like in your profile pic, but that'll definitely get her moving!

[460.465USMC]

Wahoo! Congrats, Mike. She sounds awesome, even through the walls of the dyno room! I'm sure it's a great satisfaction to now know the engine build came together as you hoped. Great work!

[8secDuster]

Thanks Chris.

Yeah, very please with how it's gone so far. Its been a long time since I have had an engine on the pump... always fun with a bit of scary tossed in. There's always that fine line between power and reliability. This one's not too crazy, so hopefully it lives a long healthy life.
Blessed to have good friends (1 is a cylinder head guy and 1 is an engine builder) that offer to help with a project like this!

[burchfieldb]

Wow, that sounds nice! That should do the job.

[Papa]

Assembled the dash this weekend. I wanted to stick with the uncluttered, racecar vibe, so instead of adding a second set of round A.C. vents to the face of the dash, I bought another set of defrost vents and mounted them on the back side of the dash, pointing downward into the footbox areas. On the passenger side, I mounted a bracket to the lower inside lip of the dash, and on the driver's side, I mounted the vent bracket on the top side of the steering shaft mount bolts. I will use 2 inch hoses for those as well as the windshield defrost vents. Not sure if needed, but I also added a little Kilsmat to the bottom side of the dash to keep it solid, and hopefully prevent any additional vibrations.

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I like the way the dash looks just powder coated like that. Do the screws along to top front edge go into the 1/2" square tube?

[8secDuster]

Thanks Papa.
Yes they do

[PNWTim]

Mike - you have a lot of great custom touches. I have enjoyed reading your updates, keep up the good work.

[8secDuster]

Thanks Tim.
Really appreciate that.

[8secDuster]

Over the weekend I hit one of the build Milestones, I was able to get the Bellhousing indexed to .003 thanks to the worlds most expensive Dowel Pins https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lak-15960lkw, Throw-Out Bearing is installed and shimmed. I had to have a buddy machine a custom 3/4" spacer for behind the TOB, but then, we were able drop in the engine and trans.
I finished installing the Jones front drive last night. I really like their stuff. Great quality and fit perfectly.
Love the Strictly Business look of the Jones products much better then the Bling-y billet look from most of the other front drive manufactures out there.
A few more things to tidy up and install before I'm able to start it in the car.


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From Hero to Zero

Well... after the engine and trans were in, I Tried to install the Drive Shaft.
The distance from the differential flange to the transmissions tail shaft it 13-1/4"
The drive shaft flange to the back of the slip yoke is almost 13-1/2" ???
Not sure what to do here? Engine can only go in one way. The differential lower control are at 17-5/8"?
What sucks is I had the drive shaft balanced, and now I'm not sure if I can even use it, or if I need to have it shortened and re-balanced?


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I'll have to call F5R today to run this past them...

[JimStone]

Sorry to hear about the driveshaft. I went through 3 lengths of driveshaft before getting it right... I've got a spare 12.75" if you need one, ha

Engine looks great!

[Jphoenix]

+1 on the Jones drive! I really like their stuff - and the pulley off the water pump to the alternator is a clever way to avoid a reverse rotation water pump.

[460.465USMC]

Congrats on the drivetrain install! Bummer about the driveshaft. I hope the fix is not too bad.

[Lugnut Mark]

I see those motion raceworks valve cover vents leading back to a catch can …. Is that a 4AN NITROUS LINE I see in there lol congrats on getting the engine and trans installed …once the driveshaft fixed I be yelling DO A BURNOUT…!

[8secDuster]

I see those motion raceworks valve cover vents leading back to a catch can …. Is that a 4AN NITROUS LINE I see in there lol congrats on getting the engine and trans installed …once the driveshaft fixed I be yelling DO A BURNOUT…!

Lol... That's an old Street Racers eye right there

[8secDuster]

Another little milestone checked off of the list. We started the engine from the car this weekend.
My son had the honors of first start, and I think he liked it.
Other than a loose hose clamp and a seeping fuel fitting, everything went very well.

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https://vimeo.com/1135374678?share=copy&fl=sv&fe=ci

[PNWTim]

Sounds great! Congratulations. I let my son do the first start on our Camaro build and he had the same look on his face.

[burchfieldb]

That is awesome, congratulations on the milestone!

[460.465USMC]

Another little milestone checked off of the list. We started the engine from the car this weekend.
My son had the honors of first start, and I think he liked it.
Other than a loose hose clamp and a seeping fuel fitting, everything went very well.

Well, sir, this is a biggie in my garage. :p Congrats and well done! Love the look on your son's face. Glad you could share the experience together.

[8secDuster]

LOL... Thanks Chris
Wasn't trying to Minimize it, because it was a big one. I went to bed that night with a Perma-Smile!

[Lugnut Mark]

YEEEE HAAAWWWWW SHE’S A RUNNER nice work on getting her fired up

[8secDuster]

Got the first drive in today.


https://vimeo.com/1139895361?fl=pl&fe=sh

[CW_MI]

I see those motion raceworks valve cover vents leading back to a catch can …. Is that a 4AN NITROUS LINE I see in there lol congrats on getting the engine and trans installed …once the driveshaft fixed I be yelling DO A BURNOUT…!

I think he has something interesting plumbed under the intake...Lol.

[460.465USMC]

Right on! Congrats, Mike! Sounds awesome. What is your first impression(s) driving your Coupe?

[8secDuster]

Right on! Congrats, Mike! Sounds awesome. What is your first impression(s) driving your Coupe?

Thanks Chris. My buddy who built the engine also custom grinds camshafts. I told him what I was looking for, and I think he Nail It. Happiness is a tight Lobe Separation. This one is ground on a 109.

Hmm... hadn't thought about that? I guess my Capt. Obvious first impression would be, Effortless. I know its because of it's weight, but I don't think I ever touched the accelerator when letting the clutch out? It just started rolling. It also turns and rolls effortlessly.
I didn't go far, only around the block and only into 2nd gear, so hoping to have the body back on it this weekend so I can take it out again and run it through the gears on our main street here.
The Gen2 that I drove last year was similar I guess, but it had manual steering, so that made it feel a lot different. Mine will be a cruiser, so glad I did PS.

[8secDuster]

After 4 days of Sanding, Installing, Measuring, Removing - Repeat. I think the hood is about done.

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Like many have mentioned, I also didn't think it was ever going to line up. Drivers side had a Huge gap at the cowl. I re-read Scott and Paul's posts about trusting the process and well finally last night, it came around.

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A little body work is needed on the drivers hinge pillar, and on the passenger side hood to the hinge pillar to bring the panels alignment to each other around, and radius the edges.

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Not sure how much these hoods will move around, so I may have to pull the front hinges back an 1/16" to open up the gap. It's a smidge tight.

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My hinge brackets fit the hood almost perfectly so luckily I didn't have to deal with that.

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Now to mark everything and knock it all apart again for final prep before spraying the underside, then... back to the Doors.

[lewma]

Looks really good!

[Shakey]

Your progress looks great! I'm glad to see you put the gas struts in to do your hood fitting. I didn't do that and it almost bit me. I found that with the gas struts connected it keeps the cowl gap about 1/8-3/16'' wider than without it. I almost trimmed too much off the hood. For my build, I had it so that the cowl gap was almost nothing and then would attach the gas struts and that would hold it open to about 3/16''. Once latched, I don't think the hood moves around at all. I guess a caveat to the gas strut changing the gap is that if you always have a helper around to help you close the hood, they can push from the front to close the cowl gap while you latch the hood and it would stay. I wanted to be able to close it by myself so cut the gap accordingly. Were you seeing any hood movement once the gas struts were attached?

V/r

Shakey

[Papa]

I didn't see any rollers in your pictures. Are you planning to use them? I bought a set from Brent and wonder if they affect the overall fitting process for the hood.

Dave

[8secDuster]

Thanks Shakey.
I didn't have them installed at first doing the rough cuts, but once I got the gaps close, I installed them to finish it up. Read a few post about that, or I would have probably had done the same thing.
Lol.. Hopefully after disassembling everything to spray the underside, it all goes back together the same way!

I pushed and pulled on it to see if there was any movement... didn't notice anything unusual.
I know they are stiff, but I'm sure driving it will be a different story, so don't want the gap too tight.

[8secDuster]

I didn't see any rollers in your pictures. Are you planning to use them? I bought a set from Brent and wonder if they affect the overall fitting process for the hood.

Dave

I have them on Order from Brent as well, Dave. Should have them in a couple of days.
Man... I hope not!
I don't think it will affect the cowl gap? But I imagine it could do something to the sides fitment?
Won't be doing any body work until those are locked down in place.

[Namrups]

The hood clamps, guide rollers and hood bumpers across the cowl area all help to align the hood when closed. I used a hard plastic along the cowl area next to the doors. Some used to push out others used to pull in. Still took some filler/bodywork to make it all line up. Having the gas struts in place during the alignment process is a must. I also attached a support bar between the upper and lower sections of the inner liner on the hood, next to the headlights, to help reduce the flexing of the hood due to the struts. Once locked down my hood does not move. The guide rollers also help in opening and closing the hood by one person.

[8secDuster]

I almost gave you a call Scott. It looked just like yours did. Didn't think it was ever going to come together.
I added Dura-Glass into all of the "L" liner to hood gaps, that really helped stiffen them up. But I saw your added supports and like that idea.
May have to get my chassis builder buddy involved, but thought of using aluminum sheet, if it'll make that bent / contour down there. It can then double as Walls for the radiator opening to help keep air flow directed into the radiator tunnel and out of the wheel wells.

[Namrups]

I almost gave you a call Scott. It looked just like yours did. Didn't think it was ever going to come together.
I added Dura-Glass into all of the "L" liner to hood gaps, that really helped stiffen them up. But I saw your added supports and like that idea.
May have to get my chassis builder buddy involved, but thought of using aluminum sheet, if it'll make that bent / contour down there. It can then double as Walls for the radiator opening to help keep air flow directed into the radiator tunnel and out of the wheel wells.

My original idea was for a more decorative full piece panel instead of just straps. Was'nt sure it was even going to help. Now that I can see it works may put it on the list of "upgrades".

Scott

[8secDuster]

The last few days I have been working on getting the Panel Alignment in shape.
Like many, my drivers side hood to cowl fitment needed some lovin. The hoods height was slightly above the cowl.
Got those areas straightened out relatively quickly. Will work on the top of the hood now to sharpen its fit to the cowl.
I was pleasantly surprised how the doors fit; they were pretty close once I had them gapped.
It didn’t take much to get them aligned with the hinge pillars and quarters.
Both the body and hood have been in 150 for a while now, allowing it to shrink. It will probably go back to my brother’s house this week to start final priming / blocking.

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[Lugnut Mark]

Looks great …. I know what a PITA final panel fitting can be …. But it looks like you have made short work of it …. Nice job ! I was recently rough fitting my hood and thought to myself I’m going to have some work ahead of me to get everything to work properly 223430223431

[8secDuster]

Thanks Mark.
The hood is a drag, no doubt.
Since I waited to start fitting mine until after the engine was installed, and didn't want to grind / sand on it over the engine, there was a lot of on and off for me to get the gaps right.
My son and I got pretty good at it.

[8secDuster]

Meet for the first time last night.

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[PNWTim]

Meet for the first time last night.

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Great picture! But what's all that white stuff on the ground?

[q4stix]

Great picture! But what's all that white stuff on the ground?

That's all the high build primer dust ;)

[8secDuster]

That's all the high build primer dust ;)

Lol... no kidding !
The garage is a mess after blocking that thing in there.

[8secDuster]

Man... This last year has gone by fast.
I have kept track of the hours I have spent in the garage for 2025. Almost 1100. The majority of them were enjoyable, and most were actually spent working on it!
However... some were spent with a drink in my hand, starring at it wondering... WT* have I done!?!?

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For the last couple of weeks, I have been working on block sanding the body. Everything is now blocked in 400 wet, and scheduled to go to paint next week.

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While waiting to go to paint, I started on the carpet. Something I wanted to wait until after paint to do, but also wanted to keep some momentum rolling. Idle hands...

I started with the Foot Boxes and Trans Tunnel. Not too terrible, just lots of on & off trimming to get the seams nice.

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I will be dropping off the rear hatch area carpet and the rocker / sill area pieces this weekend to have an edge Binding sewn in to them.

I'm still on the fence if I'm going to add the Rocker Sill plates or just leave it painted with clear XPEL film protection?

[460.465USMC]

Congrats, Mike! Very exciting to have it going off into paint. Your garage hours are productive. (I spend about the same hours per year, but less than half the output as you).

Regarding the sill plates, I totally forgot about those until I reopened my carpet box last week. They are heavy duty pieces. I guess all the pre-drilled holes are for rivets? I'd like to install mine with a brushed look, but not sure how to do that without destroying the etched F5 logo and lines. Any ideas how that can be done?

[Papa]

She's looking ready for color! Nice wok on the prep ... not something I will tackle myself on my car.

[8secDuster]

Congrats, Mike! Very exciting to have it going off into paint. Your garage hours are productive. (I spend about the same hours per year, but less than half the output as you).

Thanks Chris!
I should have probably put an Asterisk next to those Actually Spent Working hours. I bet half of those were spent looking for the tool I just had, but sat down somewhere and now, cant find!


Regarding the sill plates, I totally forgot about those until I reopened my carpet box last week. They are heavy duty pieces. I guess all the pre-drilled holes are for rivets? I'd like to install mine with a brushed look, but not sure how to do that without destroying the etched F5 logo and lines. Any ideas how that can be done?

Not sure? What I can tell you is DO NOT take a Scotch Brite to them!
Mine had what looked like light rust on them, so thought I would clean them up with a fine Scotch Brite... took the etching right off.
If they go on, I'll have to have them Powder Coated now.

[Higgybulin]

Looking good bud!!!
Higgy

[8secDuster]

She's looking ready for color! Nice wok on the prep ... not something I will tackle myself on my car.

Thanks Dave.
Dabbling in body work is something I have always liked doing. If I had to pay to have this thing painted, I wouldn't have been able to afford to do it.
I have over a couple grand into just chemicals (primer, paint, clear, hardened and reducer) That's at my brothers 55% discount through his paint rep.
The stuff is crazy expensive!

[8secDuster]

Looking good bud!!!
Higgy

Thanks Higgy!
Next time you are in the area, give me a call.

[8secDuster]

Fingers Crossed it will have color on it tomorrow, then we'll shoot the stripes on Saturday.

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Blu Avio Metallic with Wimbledon White Stripes

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[JimStone]

Those colors will look great!

It truly is amazing how much you have done in a year

[burchfieldb]

Dang, you are moving on this. I like the color choices.

[460.465USMC]

Exciting times, Mike! Thanks for posting the pictures. Inspirational for this snail-paced-builder. Can't wait to see some color. I like your choices.

[8secDuster]

My brother knocked it out of the park with this one!

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[Papa]

Beautiful!

[PNWTim]

Looks awesome!

[CW_MI]

Looks awesome ! Can't believe this is just barely over a year since delivery.

[460.465USMC]

Wow! She looks absolutely fantastic! Give yourself a pat on the back for the quality body work. Both you guys do great work. Appreciate you posting the pictures...they motivate me forward on my build.

[8secDuster]

Looks awesome ! Can't believe this is just barely over a year since delivery.

It's called a Severe Lack Of A Social Life Chuck. Then toss in some OCD, and a splash of Addiction and... TA-DA!

[burchfieldb]

It's called a Severe Lack Of A Social Life Chuck. Then toss in some OCD, and a splash of Addiction and... TA-DA!

Don't sell yourself short Mike, I believe the forum classifies as a social life activity. :D This is how all the young kids interact these days. As far as the car goes, it looks amazing. I am working hard to get to that stage or just working hard to not have a social life. Just need to figure out how to overcome the OCD part.

[Lugnut Mark]

Your brother is the man …. She looks slicker than snail snot …. Nice …. congrats on getting her painted love the colors btw

[Power Surge]

That looks amazing! Looks like the original Viking Blue. Can't wait to see it assembled!

[8secDuster]

Windshield and Rear Hatch glass are in.
Started the shoulder killing process of Sanding and Buffing the paint.
We have 6 coats of clear total. 2 after the base coat was sprayed. Block sanded that with 800 then applied the stripes, after the stripes were sprayed, we stacked 4 more coats of clear over the stripes.
We started with 800 wet and a firm block, then moved to 1000, then 1500 and final wet sanded in 2000.
Body is all done, just have the hood to finish tonight.
Its starting to get a whole lot sexier now.

Detroit Autorama is in 2 week. Feeling much better about having it ready by the 25th when we bring it downtown.

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[JimStone]

She's so purty, I want to ask her out on a date :o


I've been meaning to get to Detroit Autorama. Would love to see your car

[PNWTim]

Mike - your car looks fantastic, well done! A couple of questions about your windshield and the frit. Looks like it's about 2 1/2" along the bottom and maybe 1 1/2" around the top and sides. Is this just a style decision or is their a specific reason for the sizes/widths? Also, it looks like you chose to forego the windshield rubber and mount direct. Did you fit the windshield to the body during your body work so you had a standard gap or reveal?

[8secDuster]

Thanks Tim.

I just went by what the manual suggested, 2" at the bottom and 1" around everything else.
However.. wish I had gone 1.5" on the top and sides. I had a little smush out past the frit line in 2 spots. Not the end of the world, a razor blade will take care of it.
Yeah... not a fan of the rubber gasket / seal.
I did fit the windshield in place prior to paint. Mine fit pretty good. No body work was needed.
It will fall down into the opening without something to support it up, so its near flush with the body.
I bought a 1/4" tall dense foam with an adhesive back. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DSTV2P8Z?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 ) to support the windshield, and also prevents any adhesive from pushing out onto the paint.
I taped my frit line using 1/4" Fineline, then brushed on the primer ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0747Q82NW?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title ) and let it dry for 15 minutes. I applied it to the windshield opening as well.
I then took the 1/4" foam and ran it around the entire windshield about a 1/8" in from the edge, applying it on top of the primer / frit.
We cut a V in the adhesive tip at about 5/16", a 1/16" above the foam. ( amazon.com/dp/B0DNRBP7RC?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title ) Then used the foam as our guide for applying the adhesive to the windshield.
We used a pair of windshield suction cups and dropped it in place. I ended up using a few bondo spreaders to center it in the opening. Tight gap on the top and bottom, but looks good.
We applied a little pressure like everyone does using a couple of 2x4's and straps.
It happened so fast, I forgot to take a couple of pictures.

[PNWTim]

Thanks Tim.

I just went by what the manual suggested, 2" at the bottom and 1" around everything else.
However.. wish I had gone 1.5" on the top and sides. I had a little smush out past the frit line in 2 spots. Not the end of the world, a razor blade will take care of it.
Yeah... not a fan of the rubber gasket / seal.
I did fit the windshield in place prior to paint. Mine fit pretty good. No body work was needed.
It will fall down into the opening without something to support it up, so its near flush with the body.
I bought a 1/4" tall dense foam with an adhesive back. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DSTV2P8Z?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 ) to support the windshield, and also prevents any adhesive from pushing out onto the paint.
I taped my frit line using 1/4" Fineline, then brushed on the primer ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0747Q82NW?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title ) and let it dry for 15 minutes. I applied it to the windshield opening as well.
I then took the 1/4" foam and ran it around the entire windshield about a 1/8" in from the edge, applying it on top of the primer / frit.
We cut a V in the adhesive tip at about 5/16", a 1/16" above the foam. ( amazon.com/dp/B0DNRBP7RC?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title ) Then used the foam as our guide for applying the adhesive to the windshield.
We used a pair of windshield suction cups and dropped it in place. I ended up using a few bondo spreaders to center it in the opening. Tight gap on the top and bottom, but looks good.
We applied a little pressure like everyone does using a couple of 2x4's and straps.
It happened so fast, I forgot to take a couple of pictures.

Mike - great write up, thanks for that. I guess I hadn't gotten far enough through my build to read that section but good to know. I am probably going to go "seal-less" as well. Too bad about no photos but I get it, sometimes when you're rolling it just goes and then you're finished!

[Papa]

Looking really good, Mike. Also, thanks for the tips on the windshield prep and installation. That will come in very handy down the road.

Dave

[burchfieldb]

She's looking real nice Mike! Thanks for the tips on thw windshield. Now I just have to remember to come back here when I do mine. One thing I notice, you have the hood roller brackets on the wrong sides. The large radii should be on top, see the blue arrow in the attached photo. This will make the angle of the bracket, where the wheels mount, parallel with the body of the car and give you some more room for the hardware.

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[8secDuster]

Lol... oops.
Thanks Brent !

[edwardb]

Looking great. Doubt I will make it down to Autorama this year. Lots happening on the home front. I assume you'll be in Hand Built Sports? Should do well. Good luck.

[8secDuster]

Thanks Paul.

Bummer... but I totally understand.
I was hoping to see you down there to Thank You in person for answering my hundreds of questions and text messages over the last year!

[8secDuster]

Completed a couple of the final tasks over the weekend to have it ready for the Detroit Autorama

Installed the Headlights and Covers

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Painted the Rear Screens Pockets and installed the Screens

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Installed the Rear View Camera

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And dyed the Simpson's Harness leather pads to match the Door Straps.

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Will now spend the next couple of days detailing it, and getting the Beer cold for the weekend.

[PNWTim]

These things are so cool when they are finished. Yours looks fantastic. A couple of questions - I understand you are in Michigan but you have an original bumblebee plate, is that just a relic of times gone by? Also, how do you like the Wolfbox mirror? I have one on my shelf to install along with a rear looking camera.

[8secDuster]

Thanks Tim.

Yeah... it's a re-pop of one of Carroll Shelby's manufacture plates he had on the original cars.
Still haven't decided on which personal plate I want to get. Have a few I like.

It seems ok. I have the camera mounted high in the rear hatch opening.
Can see around those big hips pretty good.

[Higgybulin]

Looks great Brother!!!
Higgy

[rhk118]

Mike I love it! Great job. Would like to know how that rear mirror works with your camera placement - I’m planning the same location.

[8secDuster]

Thanks RHK. Appreciate it.

I'll keep you posted

[8secDuster]

Can't believe we made it.
3 weeks ago, it was in primer.
Very blessed to have my son Jake helping me. Also my good friends Chuck (CW_MI) Dave, Steve and my Brother Jerry who laid down some awesome paint on the car.
Had Jake unload it and warm it up.

That's my brothers 64 Dart Convertible next to me.
We scored a couple of nice parking spots for the weekend!


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[Papa]

You knocked it out of the park! Good luck at the show.

[Skuzzy]

Congratulations!

Man, I miss my 69 Road Runner. It is still the best car I have ever owned.

[PNWTim]

Pretty exciting times! Have fun this weekend and enjoy your accomplishments. Good to know there's another offspring that can drive a stick.

[8secDuster]

Congratulations!

Man, I miss my 69 Road Runner. It is still the best car I have ever owned.

Thats my Baby. Bought it in 1988 for $5k. Six Pack automatic with 38,000 miles.

[edwardb]

Looks really great. Autorama move in and move out... brings back memories. Good luck with the show. Briefly considered trying to get there this weekend but just isn't going to work out. Hope to catch up with you at some events during the coming season. Can't wait to get back out.

[8secDuster]

Thanks Paul.
Can't wait to get them next to each other somewhere this summer.

[Skuzzy]

Thats my Baby. Bought it in 1988 for $5k. Six Pack automatic with 38,000 miles.

Bought my 69 in 1971 for $800.00. 440 six pack with 4 speed. No power steering, no power brakes. Road Runner yellow. Two years later me and a tree had a disagreement and I lost. Straight country road, at night, no lights on the road, a little foggy and a speed limit of 50MPH. I was doing the speed limit when a 90 degree turn appeared. I was four feet away from missing the tree, but then I would have crashed into someone's living room.

I came out better than the highway patrol who came out to investigate. They went straight off the road, at high speed, and killed them both when they hit the concrete culvert.

Next morning signs and flashing lights were being installed. I was in the hospital for 10 days.

[8secDuster]

Good Lord !

[JimStone]

Car looks amazing Mike!


And that's quite a story Skuzzy

[Power Surge]

Can't believe we made it.
3 weeks ago, it was in primer.
Very blessed to have my son Jake helping me. Also my good friends Chuck (CW_MI) Dave, Steve and my Brother Jerry who laid down some awesome paint on the car.
Had Jake unload it and warm it up.

That's my brothers 64 Dart Convertible next to me.
We scored a couple of nice parking spots for the weekend!


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Duuuude.... that car looks AMAZING!

[Higgybulin]

It's a Beaut Clark!! I was also hoping to make it over this weekend, not going to happen. Enjoy the experience!
Higgy

[8secDuster]

Thanks Fellas!

[rhk118]

Can't believe we made it.
3 weeks ago, it was in primer.
Very blessed to have my son Jake helping me. Also my good friends Chuck (CW_MI) Dave, Steve and my Brother Jerry who laid down some awesome paint on the car.
Had Jake unload it and warm it up.

That's my brothers 64 Dart Convertible next to me.
We scored a couple of nice parking spots for the weekend!


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WOW :cool: ...congrats that is gorgeous!

[8secDuster]

We won our class at the Detroit Autorama!
The car received a lot of love from the spectators.
We had many compliments on the color and paint and a offer to buy it.
Super pleased with the way it turned out.

I Absolutely Love This Car!


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[Papa]

Wow! What a great accomplishment. Well done and very much deserved.

Dave

[edwardb]

Nothing much better than hearing your name and car called at the award ceremony. Congratulations for an awesome build and deserved recognition.

Factory Five (and Daytona Coupes) own the Hand Built Sports class at the Detroit Autorama. :cool:

[Higgybulin]

Yea buddy!!
Higgy

[460.465USMC]

Congrats, Mike! What an honor! That is such an impressive win.

[Lugnut Mark]

From one drag racer to another … WELL DONE! your car is awesome congrats on your win ….. now the best part you get to drive and enjoy all your hard work!

[8secDuster]

Thanks for all the kind words Gents... I truly appreciate it !
Wanted to get it done for this show while it was Fresh.
Now to finish up the last few things to make it road ready and that's exactly it Mark... Drive It !

[burchfieldb]

Congratulations, that is an awesome accomplishment!

[q4stix]

It's a great looking finished car so the award is well deserved!

[8secDuster]

I found my front master cylinder leaking the other day.
Called FFR and they told me I had to call Wilwood..... so just ordered a rebuild kit for $35 bucks.
Not too bad, took me about an hour in total.
It looks like the pistons front cup seals edges are rolled over causing fluid to by-passing. The M/C bore looked good.
Just need to bleed it tonight.

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Piston on the left was replaced.
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[burchfieldb]

I found my front master cylinder leaking the other day.
Called FFR and they told me I had to call Wilwood..... so just ordered a rebuild kit for $35 bucks.
Not too bad, took me about an hour in total.
It looks like the pistons front cup seals edges are rolled over causing fluid to by-passing. The M/C bore looked good.
Just need to bleed it tonight.

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Piston on the left was replaced.
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How many miles on those?

[8secDuster]

How many miles on those?

2... Lol