Inner Wheel Damage

[Doc76]

What do you guys make of this and suggest?
I had installed FFR Lower Control Arms a few months ago. My cousin drove the car briefly to see how it pulled and felt. I noticed it was sitting very low. Once back at the shop I saw the car was sitting ~1-1.5” lower than when it had the donor LCAs in so I had him adjust the car back up to height. I drove the car home (~15miles) from my cousins shop after doing a red-neck alignment. It didn’t feel out of alignment however I still planned to get an alignment. I haven’t driven it since.

I was under the car tonight and noticed inner rim damage that I am pretty sure wasn’t there before. (Weights had been moved by the last owner after he poked a curb and needed to rebalance the tire but fairly certain the gouges were not there before.

The upper a-arms (at the ball joint) are real close to the rim. I’m concerned it’s coming from the UCAs coming into contact with the rim. Maybe when he took it for a ride when it was sitting low?
I am thinking this was from the large amount of negative camber which caused the UCA to contact the rim.

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[Nigel Allen]

Take the wheel off and look for corresponding witness marks on control arms etc.

[Al_C]

You say you changed the lower control arms. What about the UCA? What are you using for hubs? If your parts are compatible, the control arms should not be anywhere near the wheel. How close to vertical is the hub at rest? (i.e. with no load on it)

[David Williamson]

If you have Fox Mustang spindles you may need a small wheel spacer. On mine the upper "A" arm would hit the wheel.
David W

[Jeff Kleiner]

What wheels are they?

Jeff

[Doc76]

You say you changed the lower control arms. What about the UCA? What are you using for hubs? If your parts are compatible, the control arms should not be anywhere near the wheel. How close to vertical is the hub at rest? (i.e. with no load on it)

Uppers are FFR. Spindles are donor with the FFR Spacer. Spoke to FFR before doing the swap. Shared pictures and had a good convo and was told the lower tubular LCAs were a direct swap.
I’m pretty sure this damage came from taking it for a drive while it was sitting too low. My wife’s cousin (has a custom shop, I was skeptical and looks like for good reason) did the swap and called to say “it’s ready”. When I got there I noticed it was so low the tires were almost hitting the body. He hadn’t noticed and drove it to check alignment. I had him crank it up back to where it sat height wise before.
I’m going to arrange an alignment this coming week.
I think he may have damaged the hub seals doing the re and re as well.
I had him install the rear bumper to and that’s got to come off and be redone.
Needless to say I think I’ll be looking for another guy to pull my wrench’s or try to get the time to perform more myself.

[Doc76]

If you have Fox Mustang spindles you may need a small wheel spacer. On mine the upper "A" arm would hit the wheel.
David W

I was wondering the same. I’ll take it for an alignment and see what they say.
Do you recall the spacer size you ended up with?

[Doc76]

What wheels are they?

Jeff

FFR 17x9 front
FFR 17x10.5 rear

[CraigS]

I see some slight scraping in pic#4. Possibly from the ball joint plate on the UCA. Also possibly from something that only happens w/ the steering fully turned. Look at the suspension per Nigel's recommendation. Depending what you find a 1/4" thick wheel spacer may be all you need. And yes find someone who is observant enough to look at the car and notice it is grossly low.

[rich grsc]

I know, take the wheel off, and look to see if there is any contact on any suspension parts.

[Norm B]

Doc, not likely from riding too low or the new control arms. That is the contact point with donor lower control arms without rack limiters installed. If you have the have the old arms look along the back lower edge of the arm.

Norm

[Doc76]

Doc, not likely from riding too low or the new control arms. That is the contact point with donor lower control arms without rack limiters installed. If you have the have the old arms look along the back lower edge of the arm.

Norm

Literally sold them last week. I’ll pull the wheel this week when I get a chance
Not a mark on the donor LCA’s. As mentioned I’ll pull the wheel this week to look for witness marking on that UCA.
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[Doc76]

So Dan at FFR suggested confirming ride height is per the manual then call them back. I don’t see a suggested ride height but looks like from past posts on the forums it’s 4-5”?
Sound right?

My ride height is presently 3.625” front and 4.25” back.
Given the front was driven ~1 lower, it’s really pointing towards ride height.

Should I raise the front up to 4” ?
Almost positive the ride height was originally 4” before mucking with the LCAs.
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[Al_C]

So Dan at FFR suggested confirming ride height is per the manual then call them back. I don’t see a suggested ride height but looks like from past posts on the forums it’s 4-5”?
Sound right?

My ride height is presently 3.625” front and 4.25” back.
Given the front was driven ~1 lower, it’s really pointing towards ride height.

Should I raise the front up to 4” ?
Almost positive the ride height was originally 4” before mucking with the LCAs.
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It can't hurt.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I ran 3.75” for 17 years…

Jeff

[CraigS]

4" is fine. While you are at it, count how many threads are visible beyond the adjusters. Left side should equal right side but front and rear are usually different,
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[Doc76]

4" is fine. While you are at it, count how many threads are visible beyond the adjusters. Left side should equal right side but front and rear are usually different,
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I had a look at the build book too and there isn’t much useful info in there other than page 90 stating the uppers shouldn’t have more than 1” of thread showing beyond the jam nuts on the adjusting tubes.
Also already confirmed the spindle is mounted in the correct hole-set on the spindle adapter bracket on page 95.
Given I am sitting at 3.625” front, I think I’ll bring it back up to 4” this weekend.
Will cranking it up bring the wheel away from that UCA?
I’d just like to get it a little further away than the current ~3/16” to get it to the alignment shop safely.

[CraigS]

I don't think a .375 height change is going to do much but you will see. BTW I had a thought that perhaps while it was partially apart at that shop, there was a weird bunch of angles/clearances between parts that don't happen w/ it fully assembled.

[Doc76]

I don't think a .375 height change is going to do much but you will see. BTW I had a thought that perhaps while it was partially apart at that shop, there was a weird bunch of angles/clearances between parts that don't happen w/ it fully assembled.
I looked last night. The UCA’s are adjusted at weird angles. Someone here said the front adjuster tubes on both sides should have roughly the same threads showing side to side. Mine are opposite.
So in other words the front on one side has no threads and the front on the other side has ~.5-.75” threads showing. Same goes for the alternative sides.
So the UCAs do not appear to be adjusted properly.
That and the ride height I think is still too low according to FFR recommended ride height is 4.5” and I am sitting 7/8” lower than that.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I looked last night. The UCA’s are adjusted at weird angles. Someone here said the front adjuster tubes on both sides should have roughly the same threads showing side to side. Mine are opposite.
So in other words the front on one side has no threads and the front on the other side has ~.5-.75” threads showing. Same goes for the alternative sides.
So the UCAs do not appear to be adjusted properly.
That and the ride height I think is still too low according to FFR recommended ride height is 4.5” and I am sitting 7/8” lower than that.

If that's the case you've got positive caster one side and negative on the other! Before you start making all of the changes that you've been talking about it would probably be best to get the car correctly set up as a baseline with proper ride heights, corner weight and alignment.

Jeff

[Doc76]

If that's the case you've got positive caster one side and negative on the other! Before you start making all of the changes that you've been talking about it would probably be best to get the car correctly set up as a baseline with proper ride heights, corner weight and alignment.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff
Would you recommend doing the re-re with the rear end for my rear end rebuild and the rear disc conversion and sending it for an alignment afterwards or would you recommend getting the height adjusted and getting it to my alignment shop first?

[rich grsc]

I recommend finding someone that knows something about cars to give you a hand. You seem to struggle with the most basic of issues. Not trying to be rude, just truthful

[JohnnyB]

I recommend finding someone that knows something about cars to give you a hand. You seem to struggle with the most basic of issues. Not trying to be rude, just truthful

I think you just need to sit on your fingers instead of typing sometimes Rich. Not trying to be rude, just truthful.

[Doc76]

I recommend finding someone that knows something about cars to give you a hand. You seem to struggle with the most basic of issues. Not trying to be rude, just truthful

Rich as I know you've noticed I normally do not respond to you....for good reason.
I have taken some time to try to word this as politely as possible.
As usual thanks for the unwavering lack of support Rich.
I have read some of your posts from years past that are questions just as ignorant, if not more IMO, as mine. The build book is vague (you are well aware of that as I have seen in your years past posts) and most of us are not Mechanics, we all know that which is why these forums have such high traffic and a valid reason many Mechanics and alignment shops will not touch FFR's and kits.

There's a reason I tend to not respond to your posts Rich which sucks for me to not acknowledge someone. A majority of the time they are unnecessarily rude. I would recommend reflecting on that for a moment. As I tried to politely say to you before, if you don't have anything useful to provide, please feel free to not respond. Time is money for you and I both (well me anyways) and wasting everyone's time with negative comments all the time is, well...........Guys like you make this experience a little less enjoyable. Trying to be part of a community just like you are.
Some guys respond when they know or have time and some just offer useful suggestions. But not you. There's all too often a negative undertone.

And just so you know the LCAs were installed by a custom shop that was recommended in our community out here on the West Coast. This is where this damage came from to begin with. I am trying to rectify their mistakes. This is what "finding someone that knows something about cars to give you a hand" can get you hence the term "you want something done right, do it yourself".

Remember Rich we are all learners at some point/level and unless your posts are respectful, I'll no longer respond.
I feel bad for you that it makes you feel good to belittle people.
I hope you are able to resolve whatever it is that makes you so unhappy.
Me on the other hand am still thrilled to own a life long dream and be connected with so many good people here so willing to help. Koodos to those that add value.
Not trying to be rude, just truthful......with respect

Kindly
Doc

[rich grsc]

Sorry the both of you only only look at a negative view. He is struggling and having someone local would be a help. Thats just the simple truth, it's not rude.

[Norm B]

Doc, looking carefully at your pictures in the original post has me seriously concerned. Your upper control arms are adjusted exactly opposite to the way required to get the correct caster for power steering.
Try this. Loosen the clevis bolts on both sides of control arm. Adjust the front arm so that you have 1 inch of threads showing at both ends. Adjust the rear arm in as much as possible while avoiding interference between the front arm and the spring. I have a magnetic digital level and stick it to the rotor . Try to adjust so that the rotor is angled in at the top 0.5 degrees. The rear arm will be adjusted almost all the way in.
This will get you to a drivable starting point for alignment unless your car is bent.
To Rich’s point, a person familiar with FFR roadsters would know this basic setup,

Norm

[Doc76]

Doc, looking carefully at your pictures in the original post has me seriously concerned. Your upper control arms are adjusted exactly opposite to the way required to get the correct caster for power steering.
Try this. Loosen the clevis bolts on both sides of control arm. Adjust the front arm so that you have 1 inch of threads showing at both ends. Adjust the rear arm in as much as possible while avoiding interference between the front arm and the spring. I have a magnetic digital level and stick it to the rotor . Try to adjust so that the rotor is angled in at the top 0.5 degrees. The rear arm will be adjusted almost all the way in.
This will get you to a drivable starting point for alignment unless your car is bent.
To Rich’s point, a person familiar with FFR roadsters would know this basic setup,

Norm

Thanks Norm
I’ll get the wheels pulled this weekend and get some better pictures

[CraigS]

A process for you; But first set your ride heights and count threads so left = right. BTW anywhere between 4-4.5" is OK. I have always thought 4.5" looks too high but that is just personal preference. Here is a pic posted by Jeff K that will get you in the ball park w/ UCA settings.
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Remember that the UCAs are the same for both sides. So one side will have the welded piece to the rear of the ball joint and the other side will have the welded piece to the front. W/ all the other stuff you have going on I'd skip the pro alignment for now. Set the UCAs. Check camber w/ a carpenter square or anything you can sit on the floor and end up w/ a vertical leg. I say use a square vs an angle measurer because that gets you away from having to be sure your floor is level. Car on the ground, slide your square against the tire at the bottom so it is vertical looking both from the front and from the side and is centered on the wheel. Look for the vertical to be maybe 3/8" away from the tire sidewall at the top. That will give you close enough for now on camber. If you need to adjust to get the 3/8", turn both the UCA front sleeve and rear sleeves the same amount. Put a piece of tape as a marker on each sleeve so you can do this 1/4 turn at a time. Get the left side square to tire gap the same as the right. At this point Jeff's dimensions, maybe modded slightly, get your caster close, and the tire gap gets your camber close. Now center the steering wheel and figure a way w/ pieces of wood trim or angle iron to approximate this toein tool.
https://www.longacreracing.com/shop.aspx?itemid=1709&prodid=10270&pagetitle=Aluminum-Toe-Plates-with-Magnets%2c-Standard-Style
It is a little easier w/ 2 tape measures but one will do. You want to be measuring above the tire bulge, maybe 3-3.5" off the floor. Set the toe-in to 1/16" to 1/8". This is not going to be a perfect alignment but it will be close enough to drive it, and more importantly at the moment, to see where the possible interference is.

[Jeff Kleiner]

... Here is a pic posted by Jeff K that will get you in the ball park w/ UCA settings.
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NO! That won't work in Doc's case Craig. He has Mustang spindles and the photo is for a Mk4 with FFR spindles with power steering so the uppers are installed in the horizontal mounts (or should be...although the more he tells us about what he's finding the more questionable the build of the car becomes) and the spindle offset is different so the dimensions will not be the same as the photo.

Jeff

[Norm B]

NO! That won't work in Doc's case Craig. He has Mustang spindles and the photo is for a Mk4 with FFR spindles with power steering so the uppers are installed in the horizontal mounts (or should be...although the more he tells us about what he's finding the more questionable the build of the car becomes) and the spindle offset is different so the dimensions will not be the same as the photo.

Jeff

That’s why I attached a picture of my spindles and control arm setup. I have Mustang (SN95) spindles which have the same basic control arm setting starting point. They do use different holes on the spindle adapter but, attach to the frame the same way.
Can’t believe the car was safely drivable with the uppers adjusted that way. Must have been super squirrelly. Would have been pretty stable backing up though.

Norm

[Doc76]

That’s why I attached a picture of my spindles and control arm setup. I have Mustang (SN95) spindles which have the same basic control arm setting starting point. They do use different holes on the spindle adapter but, attach to the frame the same way.
Can’t believe the car was safely drivable with the uppers adjusted that way. Must have been super squirrelly. Would have been pretty stable backing up though.

Norm

I plan to do the rear disc conversion and rear end rebuild then just trailer it to the alignment shop. I’ve got an enclosed so think it’s the safest bet at this point.

[Doc76]

That’s why I attached a picture of my spindles and control arm setup. I have Mustang (SN95) spindles which have the same basic control arm setting starting point. They do use different holes on the spindle adapter but, attach to the frame the same way.
Can’t believe the car was safely drivable with the uppers adjusted that way. Must have been super squirrelly. Would have been pretty stable backing up though.

Norm
It most certainly was squirrelly which was why was asking about whether it was the nature of our short wheel bases maybe with power steering and they drive like that or bumper steering or?
I’ll get it sorted out.
Thanks guys.

[Norm B]

Doc do you have a picture of the drivers side of your car. Specifically interested in the front tire and wheel well opening. Still bothering me that your control arms were adjusted that way.

Norm

[Doc76]

I test fit the disc brake conversion today so next chance I get the plan is to jack stand it on the hoist and pull the rear end for the rebuild and I’ll also pull the front wheels too. Deal with the UCA at least get them closer to what they “should look like” and do some brake work.

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[danmas]

I test fit the disc brake conversion today so next chance I get the plan is to jack stand it on the hoist and pull the rear end for the rebuild and I’ll also pull the front wheels too. Deal with the UCA at least get them closer to what they “should look like” and do some brake work.

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206984

Fixed the images.

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[danmas]

As an aside, the color looks great. Love to see more of the car.

[Doc76]

Fixed the images.

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Thank you :) super wierd. I don’t know why all of a sudden some pictures are upside down. Never been a problem before and is totally hit and miss.
The site seems to be hanging up a lot today for me as well.
Lots of changes coming but the color won’t be one of them. Happened to match my bike by fluke.

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[Doc76]

I just noticed after Danmas fixed these that it’s not a reflection of the spacing around the tire if that’s what you’re wondering?
Must be slightly lifted due to the back end being up in the air.
I’ll try to get a better one in the next few days

[danmas]

206991

Hmm. We may be brothers of another mother. I think mine may be a touch faster but…. <shrug>. Jokes aside, it’s nice to see a fellow enthusiast.

Dan

[Doc76]

So this is how the front end looks like
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[Norm B]

The passenger side looks OK (could be room for more caster) but, the driver’s side is exactly backwards. With power steering you are trying to get 7 degrees of caster and -0.5 degrees of camber (wheel tilted in at the top)

Norm

[CraigS]

Ah crap, I forgot that Doc is on Fox spindles. Thanks for straightening me out.

[Doc76]

So I discovered something tonight I really do not understand.
I was checking the range of motion regarding this damage.
When I turn the wheel left and right, the driver size UCA stays static however when I observe the range of motion on the passenger side (the side with the wheel damage) the UCA lifts up when turning to the right and gets stiff.
From center (straight) to full left turn, the UCA stays static however when I go from centre to full right, the UCA stays straight.
Any advice on what to look for would be appreciated

[Jeff Kleiner]

It’s moving because of caster. We’ve already determined that you have differing caster from side to side. Align both sides alike and they will move the same.

Jeff

[kgkeys]

I think your passenger side UCA is assembled incorrectly. The ball joint plate needs to be removed and flipped front to back.

Here's a picture of mine for reference:
https://zeys.zapto.org/FSuspension2.jpg

Kyle

[Doc76]

I think your passenger side UCA is assembled incorrectly. The ball joint plate needs to be removed and flipped front to back.

Here's a picture of mine for reference:
https://zeys.zapto.org/FSuspension2.jpg

Kyle

Thanks Kyle
Great eye!!
I adjusted the UCAs to closer side to side however this had no effect on the range of motion and binding.
I just went and looked and it is assemble wrong.
Passenger side is angled up and the drivers is angled down like yours pictured.
Thanks you so much!!!!!
This explains why it contacted the rim
I know what I am doing Saturday;)

[kgkeys]

I noticed Craig had mentioned it previously, but once you see it, you see it... Good luck!

[Doc76]

Anyone know the part number for the upper ball joint?
I started correcting the incorrectly assembled UCA today and wasn’t surprised to find the boot is damaged
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Also, my understanding is this ball joint is threaded in with Loctite. What’s the best method to break it free?
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[Jeff Kleiner]

Moog K772 or equivalent. Screw in joint used on literally millions of Chrysler products from the early 1960s on through the late 70s. If red Loctite was used it might require heat.

Jeff

[egchewy79]

as Jeff mentioned, heat to break the red loctite bond. I also found the correctly sized socket on an impact gun to be necessary. It's a 1-59/64" size socket.

[CraigS]

Another technique that can help is remove the UCA from the car. Turn it over and clamp the flat sides of the BJ in your vise. Pull on the frame end of the UCA to thread it off the BJ. Most people don't have a wrench or socket for the BJ but many have a vice.

[Doc76]

Another technique that can help is remove the UCA from the car. Turn it over and clamp the flat sides of the BJ in your vise. Pull on the frame end of the UCA to thread it off the BJ. Most people don't have a wrench or socket for the BJ but many have a vice.

Thanks Craig
This is actually how I got it apart. Lucky for me no locktite was used.

[Norm B]

Doc, you really want to use loctite for reassembly. The ball joints have been known to unthread from the control arm. Some have gone as far as spot welding the ball joints to the arms to prevent this.

Norm

[Doc76]

I noticed today that the adjuster sleeves? have been hack sawed and not well. Would you guys recommend I throw it in my lathe and skim the ends true?
If so is there a “don’t go shorter than this”, length?
Presently they’re ~3.5”
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[Norm B]

I have never heard of shortening all the sleeves, just the two used on the rear of the control arm.
Maybe Jeff or Rich know more about this.

Norm

[rich grsc]

Never shorten the fronts

[Doc76]

NO! That won't work in Doc's case Craig. He has Mustang spindles and the photo is for a Mk4 with FFR spindles with power steering so the uppers are installed in the horizontal mounts (or should be...although the more he tells us about what he's finding the more questionable the build of the car becomes) and the spindle offset is different so the dimensions will not be the same as the photo.

Jeff

Jeff you mention your pictured dims won’t work for my setup. I don’t suppose you have similar dimensions (starting point) for my setup to rough-in the front end like your picture?
Fox spindles, FFR adapters, power steering, FFR upper and lower control arms.
Thanks

[Doc76]

Doc, you really want to use loctite for reassembly. The ball joints have been known to unthread from the control arm. Some have gone as far as spot welding the ball joints to the arms to prevent this.

Norm

Can a guy get away with blue (temporary) or should red (permanent) be used?

[Norm B]

Doc, I used blue Loctite and nothing has moved in 10 years.

Norm

[Avalanche325]

So Dan at FFR suggested confirming ride height is per the manual then call them back. I don’t see a suggested ride height but looks like from past posts on the forums it’s 4-5”?
Sound right?

My ride height is presently 3.625” front and 4.25” back.
Given the front was driven ~1 lower, it’s really pointing towards ride height.

Should I raise the front up to 4” ?
Almost positive the ride height was originally 4” before mucking with the LCAs.
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I am not a fan of rake. These cars need all the rear grip they can get. I run 4" all the way around.

[Doc76]

Can anyone confirm what the length of an unmodified adjuster sleeve is on the FFR UCAs?
FFR said today the ones they sell on the shelf are 4” and frequently require shortening. Mine are 3.5”
Guy today said the last car he built had to be shortened more than that.
The car drove “straight” prior to pulling apart the bad UCA.
I’ll know more once I rough in the alignment if I’ll need new ones but just trying to plan ahead as to what I may look for in the event alignment becomes a struggle.
FWIW-FFR doesn’t sell just the sleeves and rather the whole UCA.
I know Speedway has items that look very similar and noticed an I.E 427 video last night that was utilizing them on a white car.
Looked like these.
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[CraigS]

Here you go;
https://www.spcalignment.com/race
Pls confirm that your sleeves are 3/4" thread because I am pretty sure that is what SPCs are. I often look up part #s here and then go to Summit to buy them.

[rich grsc]

A 1/2" should be more than enough, and may not be a problem on the front. STOP looking for problems. :( Assemble and see what you have

[Norm B]

Doc, I think I posted this earlier in the thread but, assemble your control arms so that you have almost an inch of threads showing on the front then adjust the rear in as much as required to get 0.5 degrees negative camber ( wheel tilted in at the top). Make sure you don’t have any interference with the coil over springs. Tighten all the lock nuts and clevis bolts. Should be good to drive it to the alignment shop.
I was within 1/2 degree of the 7 degrees of caster recommended by FFR for power steering when I went for alignment.
If the car drove well before the new lower control arms were installed, it should be able to be aligned to do the same after.
Curious as to your reasoning for changing the lowers if the car was driving well.

Norm

[Doc76]

Doc, I think I posted this earlier in the thread but, assemble your control arms so that you have almost an inch of threads showing on the front then adjust the rear in as much as required to get 0.5 degrees negative camber ( wheel tilted in at the top). Make sure you don’t have any interference with the coil over springs. Tighten all the lock nuts and clevis bolts. Should be good to drive it to the alignment shop.
I was within 1/2 degree of the 7 degrees of caster recommended by FFR for power steering when I went for alignment.
If the car drove well before the new lower control arms were installed, it should be able to be aligned to do the same after.
Curious as to your reasoning for changing the lowers if the car was driving well.

Norm
Thanks
What’s the best method to shop-check for Caster?
I wanted the upgraded FFR lowers and not donors. Its a good thing I did cause I likely would have not caught the incorrectly assembled UCA any other way (given a custom shop missed it too) and who knows the damage that binding would have caused over time.
So being proactive has paid off several times now.

[Doc76]

A 1/2" should be more than enough, and may not be a problem on the front. STOP looking for problems. :( Assemble and see what you have

Thanks Rich for that dimension I appreciate it.

Yes if I was the original builder I would totally agree, looking for problems to be a waste however given I am not and have found and fixed issues throughout the car, I feel it’s prudent.
From the body panels rubbing, to bad motor mounts resulting in pipes hitting the body, to rear gear issues, to the spring washers missing from the steering column, to the PS UCA installed upside down, I think it’s the right course to continue.

[rich grsc]

Yes, if you aren't the original builder a good check over is smart.

[Norm B]

Doc, without alignment tools there is no way to accurately measure caster at your home shop. The measurements I gave you will get you to a safely drivable starting point as long as all your components are properly installed.

Norm

[CraigS]

As NormB says you really need a caster tool. But w/o one you can at least get both sides to match w/ a yardstick or similar and a ruler or tape. Put the stick across the front of the X frame like this so one end sticks out near the UCA ball joint.
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Be sure you are holding it against the same location on both sides. Measure back to the grease fitting on the BJ. I would use dimensions suggested in this thread on the first side and then make the other side match. All specs being equal, your caster # will affect how much effort is needed to make a turn. If your caster varies side to side, that will cause the car to drift toward the side w/ less caster. So getting it equal side to side is more important at this stage than what the actual # is.

[Doc76]

Thank you very much to all you guys!
Happy new year!

[gbranham]

Can anyone confirm what the length of an unmodified adjuster sleeve is on the FFR UCAs?



Here's mine.

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[Doc76]

Anyone know the torque spec on the ball joint into the UCA?
Google gives me conflicting info and FFR said "snug".

[Doc76]

So after correcting the Pass UCA at full drop the binding has been resolved and the clearance is the same as the drivers side. It is not as close as it was but man, that’s tight. I have review the build book for any irregularities and cannot identify any.
I would really like to not go with spacers in the front but don’t see much choice.
That’ll result in the need for new wheel studs.
The rear using Moser axles and the FFR 11.65” disc kit has the same issue that the studs are too short.
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Also is it normal for the wheels on the Mk4 to rub the inner fenders?
I believe there’s a mod for the rack but that’s more for assist?

[Norm B]

I would not bother with spacers. Not much clearance needed there. Everything moves together unless something breaks and then it doesn’t matter.
If the inner fender you’re talking about with respect to tire rub is the F panel then, yes it is common without rack limiters

[rich grsc]

I see nothing wrong. It looks to me in your photos that the wheels are turned more in one direction than the other

[Doc76]

Thanks guys
I did see in other posts about rack limiters. Perhaps one day….

[CraigS]

What saves the day re: tire rubbing on the F panel is it only happens in a parking lot at walking speeds. And the tire is hitting a nice smooth surface. The only damage is a black mark on the aluminum.

[Doc76]

As an aside, the color looks great. Love to see more of the car.
Drove it for 18 months before taking the first picture outside the shop lol
222672

[danmas]

Drove it for 18 months before taking the first picture outside the shop lol
222672

Killer look. Love it…

[2JZ]

Yeah, the UCA hitting the rim is totally common when you drop the ride height too much on these. The huge negative camber is making the UCA pivot right into the rim lip when the suspension compresses. Get it properly aligned ASAP.