Justin & Son's in AZ - Wiring, it never ends.

[Justin]

Hey there friends!

So I guess it's time to start my long journey of documenting my first build. My two sons will be helping along the way. They are 13 and 11 as I make this thread. I'll start here with a little back story. When I was a child my father always spoke about the Cobra. He told stories of its successes and made sure to point them out if they happen to be at a car show. He was in high school during the rise of Shelby American so I'm sure many of you can relate in some ways to the influence the Cobra had on him. Fast forward to when I was in high school ('94) and I was able to buy a 1989 Mustang LX with the 5.0HO in 1993. This was when magazines were KING of media and marketing. I had multiple subscriptions, and each month read most from cover to cover. MM&FF, Super Ford, Hot Rod, Car Craft (one of my favs) and Popular Hot Rodding to name a few. I would spend hours in the supermarkets late at night (back when they were open 24hrs) just reading magazines. I can't remember when exactly but I do remember in the mid 90's reading about FFR. Probably in Kit Car Magazine or something but I know they were in other Ford mags after that too. In fact, I have a 1999 MM&FF on the shelf. I bet there is an ad in it. I did make it into MM&FF with my 1995 Mustang Cobra. Maybe in 2002 or something. Any who's, I have been eyeballing a FFR for a LONG time but until now I just couldn't justify the cost and time for such a toy.

So a few years ago I sold my ski boat (retired that hobby for a while) and I'm sitting on some fun money. I decided I needed to teach the boys a little more depth into the world of mechanics and what better way than the simplicity of a FFR Roadster. Last November I started buying some parts for the engine build. Since I have a vast knowledge of the SBF I just stuck with that. And with my 'go big or go home' attitude (slightly tamed by age and wisdom) I bought some goodies. I'll go into details on that later.

The master plan is a complete MK4 kit. IRS, Wilwoods, electric steering and eBrake, 18" wheels (undecided), build my own drop trunk, rear battery in a fender, AC/heater (11" of rain a year in Oro Valley but it gets HOT), 427 Hardtop, and a HUGE list of upgrades or changes.

So from here I'm going to see about figuring out how to insert photos (hosting site) so there are no thumbnails.

Cheers,
Justin, Jaxon and Griffin

[Justin]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206091&d=1730784320

[Justin]

One of the first purchases was the engine block. These were hard to come by because of Covid, my guess, but I did find one. M-6010-BOSS35195. Fun fact, my old engine from my '95 was a Dart Iron Eagle 8.2 That engine was a 363ci and had a large turbo on it. It was a street car and made over 1000hrspwrs. Way back in 2004. This one will not be so obnoxious. Only a 427ci NA.

The block came out of the crate with a LOT of ugly casting flash. The Dart didn't need anything but some paint. This block would take some work.https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206094&d=1730786276

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[John Ibele]

Congrats on pulling the trigger and welcome to the fun! I love hearing about what seed got planted years ago which led to a purchase today. Great that you're involving your boys, mine joined when they could and learned a bunch. And I had fun in every year of my multi-year build. In fact, although this is year two on the road, I've still not graduated. I look forward to updates in your build thread.

[Mike.Bray]

I see you have screw in freeze plugs. Be sure and install new O-rings at final assembly, don't ask me how I know....

[Justin]

After some grinding, cutting and filing the block looked like it should. I'm not going for a Ridler Award so I don't plan to chase perfection. I'm hoping the car will get driven. Road, track, strip, shows and cruises are not off the table.

Using a sanding flapper wheel on a grinder and my ¼" Milwaukee bit whizzer I began the process of turning cast iron into iron dust.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206122&d=1730821330

While working on producing the iron dust I decided to file the "Ford Racing" logo to see if it would be a nice touch to the finished product. Probably not.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206121&d=1730821330

This process took a while. Sanding and grinding while trying to make it look like I might know what I'm doing.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206120&d=1730821330

Oh look! Another casted font set. Why not file it flat? I mean it will look great while hiding behind the starter under the car.https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206119&d=1730821330

After blowing the grit off I loaded the 200lb chunk and off to the machine shop for round one.

[Justin]

Congrats on pulling the trigger and welcome to the fun! I love hearing about what seed got planted years ago which led to a purchase today. Great that you're involving your boys, mine joined when they could and learned a bunch. And I had fun in every year of my multi-year build. In fact, although this is year two on the road, I've still not graduated. I look forward to updates in your build thread.

Thank you! I'll post some more about some of my old car roots when I have some time. I was heavy into the car scene for about 14 years before deciding I needed a break and switching gears to becoming an extreme athlete.

[Justin]

I see you have screw in freeze plugs. Be sure and install new O-rings at final assembly, don't ask me how I know....

My bigger question is, should I hunt town a tool truck to find an Allen wrench/socket big enough to snug it down. Right now the o-rings are snuggling their plug partners in a box with the dowel rings.

[gbranham]

Congrats, and great engine choice. I went the same route. :)

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[Justin]

Thanks! Where did you get that nifty engine buggy?

[gbranham]

Thanks! Where did you get that nifty engine buggy?


Summit. SUM-918034. $93. I needed it once I was done assembling my engine and was ready to bolt up the transmission.

[Cobraman]

I just started my build this last weekend and I also have this same add in one of my ol magazines this is what got me hooked. Looking forward to see your results.

[Justin]

The block I could get my hands on was the 9.5 deck standard bore. So the machine shop checked the crank bore before putting the block into their CNC machine. It's a 5 axis machine but the owner at Racer's Edge in Tucson does a LOT of porting work as well. That side of the business is Air Flow Solutions. He said it was easiest to bore the cylinder that way. It was cool to watch him set it up and punch them out to 4.125" There was a LOT of material removed.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206148&d=1730867996
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After the block was decked to 9.500" it came out of the machine and I installed the torque plate before getting a final hone.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206150&d=1730867996
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After a wash in the parts cleaner I took the block home to check all the bearing clearances before returning the block for cam bearing install and a final cleaning. Here you can see I was getting the bearings installed to measure the inside diameter.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206914&d=1732769514

And after the rods were done I moved to the crank journals and finally checked the end play. .005"
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[Justin]

The block went back to the machine shop to have the cam bearings installed after a final wash (I worked on the casting flash some more.) I also filed the rings so I could have the rotating assembly zero balanced. The stroker kit is from Scat. Forged 4" stroke crank with 6.200 h-beam rods and Diamond Pistons. An aluminum ATI DAMPER and Ram Aluminum flywheel is used. I bagged the block in a fresh bag after the wash and took it home for immediate paint. I masked off the surfaces and used an engine etching primer before a few coats of "Old Ford Blue" and a clear top coat. I'm not sure why I went with Old Ford Blue. I guess it just wasn't quite as "royal blue" as the other option. After a couple days of curing I used a brush and coated some motor oil on all the exposed iron. I also installed the freeze plugs (with o-rings), oil galley plugs, a few accessory oil plugs and the cam plug. From there it was time to build the short block. My oldest son was hands on, while my youngest just wanted to watch and take some photos.

Here you can see the main bearings are installed and lubed with Lucas Assembly Lube.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206916&d=1732771134

Then I dropped the crank in. After the crank was laid into place I showed the boys about the main caps and their bearings. We spoke about the studs, torque lube, and how to use a torque wrench. The main studs and spayed cap bolts are ARP 12pt pieces.
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When you only weigh 95lbs... 80lbs on a ⅜" torque wrench can be a bit of a struggle. Final torque was 110 ft-lb using a ½ drive wrench.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206920&d=1732771134

[Blitzboy54]

Thanks for posting that print ad. We are the same generation. Magazines were it for sure. I had motor cross mags stacked 10 high in my room. Really brings back some memories.


Congratulations on your purchase and welcome aboard.

[JohnnyB]

Thanks for posting that print ad. We are the same generation. Magazines were it for sure. I had motor cross mags stacked 10 high in my room. Really brings back some memories.
Congratulations on your purchase and welcome aboard.
Yeah, that ad really brings back some memories. I met Greg "The Wheelie Guy" Lapoint at a Fun Ford weekend at Norwalk dragstrip in 1999. Checked out his car and the rest as we say is history. It was definitely a different and exciting time for Factory Five. It's been a great journey. Met a lot of good people and its been fun to watch all the improvements along the way.

Justin, I hope you and your boys enjoy it as much as I have.

Some pics of Greg's car from 99.
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[BUDFIVE]

Justin, I’m enjoying all the engine detail and magazine talk. I must be about 15 years older than you-I built my first motor in 1979-1980, a 350 Pontiac for my 1970 Firebird. Enthusiast media was all magazines and parts were found at local speed shops and in a few catalogs-Perf. Automotive Wholesale and yes, Summit Racing. The 347 I built in my current build has many parts from Summit. And I still use the old Craftsman Pointer-style torque wrench from 1979 for the first 2 torque steps on mains and rods-still great for rocking the fastener to spread the thread lube. Welcome to the forum and thanks for reminding me of the good ole days.

[Justin]

Thanks fellas. It's been a slow progress. I told myself a couple years ago that this was the next big project. It's been in progress for over a year now. But that just means I have been purchasing engine parts as I find some deals. And when I find time between work, coaching my kids football(soccer) teams and being a Gen X adult (always on the go) time is limited. To top that off I'm adding a wall in my garage to separate the 3rd stall from the main stall. It gets HOT in AZ, so I want a space I can work without wiping sweat from my eyes as I yell profanities because I can't find the tool I JUST PUT DOWN!

After we finished the crank shaft we moved to the pistons. I discussed with the boys how the ring gap is set and why it's has specific clearances. How the rings move in the cylinder and break in procedures. Showed them the ring filing tool and how it works to satisfy some of the never ending questions. I won't bore you with a bunch of photos but my son tapped the pistons into the bore while I guided them onto the crank. The pistons I used were from Diamond. I'm so glad I hung onto the engine building tools from back in the day. The ring compressor sleeve from my old 363 was so awesome to use again.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207217&d=1733548569

After getting all the pistons and rods into their home we installed the oil pump and pickup. Then did a quick pan test fit.
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I slid the camshaft into place. Nothing too crazy 242/246 @ .050" .595/.595 lift, 110LSA. I installed one head, TFS 11R 205cc, and the short travel hyd. roller lifters. This was the second time really, as I had to measure the piston to valve clearance, and pushrod length. Again, thankfully I had the tools for this in the bin marked "engine building". Pushrods, roller rockers and then let my son do the other side.
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[Justin]

Story time;
It was a rare treat to have a big race promoter show up out west in Arizona. Fun Ford Weekend came out a couple times and I think the NMRA once or twice. I participated in both FFW events. I ran my 1995 Mustang in the True Street Class. 30 mile cruise and then a couple runs on the strip to win the prize. Well, in 2003 the differential exploded (literally) on the starting line. The car made about 650hp to the tires in that trim. Since I was out of the race I decided to put the car into the car show on Sunday. I cleaned it up and rolled it to the show area Sunday morning. It was a great day with many friends and loads of laughs. I don't remember a whole lot of the weekend but I do remember watching the Pro 5.0 and Outlaw finals. Then jogging over to the car show awards that had already started. Just as a guy turns up and hears his name being called alarm bells started ringing. I was sure my car was in the way or something. Nope, they awarded me with the "Best Engine" of Show award. The old guy handed me this ridiculous 24" tall trophy that reminded me of the prize my baby sister would win at beauty pageants when I was about 10. Turning up late was kind of embarrassing. But what was a fella supposed to do? There was racing going on. They handed out the rest of the "Best of_____" trophies. Ya know, interior, paint and what has it. They handed on old man with a giant 'Best of Show' trophy and then came the last award. The Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords Magazine Editors Choice Award. Yep, you guessed it, I was handed that plaque. Never in a million years would I have thought that would happen. I mean there were some REALLY shiny and fancy cars there. With that award came a feature in the magazine. My mind was BLOWN. So about a TWO years later, they wrote a feature with a LOT of mistakes but it was still very cool and is one of my favorite memories.
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[Justin]

What a day! Seemed like a long one for sure. I'm getting closer to getting the garage done. I have one last round with the drywall mud and then baseboards, door trim and paint. Then I can install the cabinets. Not really that fun to talk about but I told myself I wouldn't order the kit until this project was complete. I have the rest of the month off so I'm hoping that I will be able to order the kit before the end of the year. Biggest question is... MK4 or MK5?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207273&d=1733639681

I also spent some time on the engine. A few months ago I installed the intake, fuel rails and injectors, thermostat housing, and the valve covers I bought from "Papa". I used some nice ARP SS 12pt hardware and was sure to use anti-seize. I have had the engine on a stand taking up a huge amount of space in the garage for about 4 months now. Wrapped in a big bag in its various stages.

I've gone back and forth about what I was going to do for the accessories. Jones? CVF? March? Eddie's? BluePrint? Holley just released a new system. It looks very compact, but I don't need power steering (going electric assist). I decided to go with Billet Specialties. Their Tru Trac system isn't crazy "hot rod" but still pretty fancy. I'm still a little torn about how I want it to look in the end. The whole kit came polished. And if there is one thing about all polished/chrome or all black is the details get lost. There is no depth in my opinion. So, I painted the fancy polished timing cover and the factory water pump the same color as the block. My son went a little crazy with the RTV but in the end it wasn't too bad.
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The kit uses a '94+ 5.0 water pump.
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After snugging the timing cover and water pump down I was FINALLY able to install the Aviaid Oil Pan.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207277&d=1733639681

The is still a LOT of polish going on. I'm still on the fence whether I powder paint the main bracket black. And maybe the fan on the alternator. That would break it up a bit. I don't mind the pulleys too much. The belt helps there.
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[Justin]

As I sit here in the wee hours of the morning, because sleep can be an elusive prey sometimes, I have thought about the many build threads I have read thus far. So many have info that might not be relative to everyone but if it helps one person then it should be said. That said, I have a few things I noted in my mind as thing that 'might' help some poor soul in the future.

1. M-6010-BOSS351 block. As of now I have not started the engine but I would like to state that this block needed quite a bit of final machining. Everything was pretty tight and/or long. The block requires specific cam bearings, Part Number: M-6261-J351. It also required 2 -6AN o-ring plugs for the oil galley. I'm not sure why these were not included. The block did come with -4AN plugs for all the auxiliary ports. It also came with alignment dowels for the heads, timing cover and bell housing. The hardware that mounted the main caps was just grade 8 bolts. So I bought ARP Chromoly Bolts 642-2500 for the splayed cap holes. For the main studs ARP Main Stud Kit 154-5403 worked just fine. If you have a rear sump pick-up oil pan you will need a different stud kit.

2. Ford Racing Boss351 Block with a Scat 427 rotating assembly. The rotating assembly cleared all the cylinder bores just fine. There was one small area where the oil pump mounts that was a little tight. Like maybe .050". So I clearanced that quickly and easily with a cutting bit on my Dremel.

3. Ford Racing Boss302/351 Head studs. The standard small block Ford studs are too short to use with this block. This information was not on the internet to my knowledge. I searched down the rabbit hole for a while before finally calling ARP. ARP Part number 155-4201. These studs fit the 390/428 FE blocks. They are about an inch longer than the SBF studs.

4. ATI Damper. I've never used this damper in the past. Probably won't ever use them again going forward. The part required a tiny about of machining to get it to fit over the crank snout. It is press fit. It's in the instructions that this is required. I've use a few other SFI certified dampers in the past and have never had this issue.

5. Pushrod length. There are a HUGE amount of variables that come into play. But what I have found is that most 351W blocks with the 9.5" deck will want a pushrod somewhere around 8.700". With this information you can buy the appropriate size tool to measure the pushrod length for your application. I ended up at 8.750"

Obviously this is just the tip of the iceberg that is sure to come but as of now these are the things that I feel are worth sharing.

[gbranham]

My Boss 427 shortblock was missing water jacket drain plugs. After some back and forth with the Ford engineers, they sent me the correct ORB plugs the 2nd time. They were scratching their heads over this one; allegedly, they should've been installed when the short block was assembled. It caused them some concern over their QC practices.

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[Justin]

My Boss 427 shortblock was missing water jacket drain plugs. After some back and forth with the Ford engineers, they sent me the correct ORB plugs the 2nd time. They were scratching their heads over this one; allegedly, they should've been installed when the short block was assembled. It caused them some concern over their QC practices.

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Yeah, weird for sure. I had those plugs. They are the same as all the other oil plugs. The main galley plugs are a bit bigger and were not in the box. It wasn't hard to source them online just a minor inconvenience.

I have 3 choices for an oil level dipstick right now. HA! One in the block (I'm going to use an expansion plug for that) one 1/8NPT port in the timing cover, and a standard ¼ NPT port in the Aviaid Oilpan I do plan to use.

[Justin]

I'm back!
We've been busy for a few months. I am about 99% done with the 3rd stall in my garage. I just need another shelf and the mini-split installed.FINALLY! But I do need to finish the other side of the wall with some insulation and drywall. BOO.

I have the next couple of weeks with low work load so I should be able to get some of that work done. Remember I said I wasn't going to order a kit until the garage was done? Yeah well, sometimes an opportunity comes around and you just have to adapt.

So this weekend I made a 1800 mile round trip to pick up a complete MK4 from a gentleman that was not able to continue. It's pretty early in the build stages. He had gotten the suspension completed. The Wildwood kits installed and a few of the panels put into place. He was just starting the brake lines before he had to step away.

So what did I get? Welp, a 2023 Complete kit. Like mentioned above, Wilwoods, and IRS. It's set up for a SBF. Dual rollbar cut outs. Some Breeze products... GasN pipes. No wheels or gauges. No big deal. It also included a 351W (not sure if it's stroked or not) and a TKO600. It's a carbed engine. I'll need to pull a head off to see what the piston looks like. It has AFR 58cc heads. But I'm not sure if they are 165s or 225s. Just need to run the numbers. So I would imagine it has some like of dished pistons. I'll check the bore and stroke to see what's going on. While the intake is off I can also see what kind of lifters are in it.

I am going to have to buy a few new panels for myself. I want the engine bay panels to be silver instead of black. So I will have some parts for sale as I don't have quite the same plan as the previous builder. He put in a hole for a Breeze cubby kit. But I want a door on the cubby. He also had purchased a Breeze Battery box and drop trunk I won't be using. Also in the boxes is the CF dash. Not totally sure I want to go that route. But time will tell.

So now I need to finish the garage and a couple other spring time honey-do's before tearing into the build.

Loaded into the trailer. The cost in fuel was just under $700. That and a one night stay ate a hotel at about $150. Well, I do owe my buddy a steak dinner for lending me his trailer too.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211322&d=1741582403

With the help of my wife and my son we rolled the chassis into the garage. At some point I will turn it around.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211323&d=1741582403

I removed the moving blankets and put those away so now it will sit here for a while. Soon I will get the body off and stored and then onto removing panels.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211324&d=1741582403

[Justin]

Small update. More for me, but anyone bored enough to cringe at my rate of progress... read on.

IN the last few weeks I have done some more work on the garage. Boring. Insulation, more drywall, Evacuation fan, hanging tools and equipment on said drywall. Boring.

But, I did get the body off and mounted on a pulley system and tucked neatly near the ceiling. That was an adventure. But it worked. I also have made notes and begun to purchase things on my list.
Battery - XS Power D5100 AGM. I don't plan to use the Breeze Battery Relocation Kit and the battery doesn't fit in the box anyway. So there's that.
Fuel Filter - I have an old Aeromotive filter can so I just bought a 10micron filter for it. Yay for saving some money!
Tank straps - Going symmetrical with the straps. More on this later.
Exhaust gaskets
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Fuel Pressure Gauge (under hood)
Charcoal Canister Filter - Made from the $18 Amazon fuel filter. I had the charcoal (I have an aquarium) and the ScotchBrite pad.
-10 ORB to 5/16" Barb for above filter. Bonus, filter came with -10 ORB to -6AN fittings for my Fuel filter!
New F panels from FFMetal
About 8 new panels (under hood/foot boxes) from FFR.
Over rider kit from FFR
Louvers from FFR
Rear wheels and 4 accessory kits from FFR. That was an expensive order.
Forte Throttle Assembly
Forte Throttle Pedal
Forte Pedal Pads
Seat Heaters
Wilwood Brake Balancer.
NGR Steering Wheel Release
And I put my name on Frank's list for his turn signal hub.

I'm sure I'm forgetting some stuff.

So here's the plan of attack. I'm going to remove all the panels (maybe leave a couple) from the foot boxes. Remove the small amount of brake line the previous owner had run and start going through the suspension, pedal bracket assembly, brake assembly and rear end to confirm everything is correct and torqued to spec. So my boys and I will ALMOST be starting from zero. Oh and I need to pull the 351w and TKO600 out that's resting in the chassis right now so "me and the mad scientist can rip apart the block and replace the piston rings you fried." Really the goal is to find out what the bore and stroke is, measure the dish or dome of the piston to calculate the displacement and CR. Important info when I list it for sale.

Before I left the garage tonight I was staring at the trunk (big changes coming) and couldn't help but wonder what was inside the tank for a pump. So, with a few taps with the hammer I spun the ring off and pulled it out. Glad I did. There was a broken wire on the hanger and the hanger itself was modified. Each builder has their reasons, but I'm going to buy the QUANTAM. Who makes up these names?Fuel hanger kit (same one that was in it) again and start over with that. The fuel pump? It was a QUANTAM 340lph stock replacement unit. Great! No not really, on the shelf it goes. I have an Aeromotive 340 already in a box and waiting for me to make it hide in a dark tank forever.

Oh, and I whipped a chassis dolly together while I had my saws out (drywall work). 20" to the bottom of the 4" rails. Should make it easier to creep around under there.

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[Justin]

Well it finally happened. I made forward progress. To this point I have been going in reverse. Literally un-doing the previous owners work. Not all of it but let's just say I have drilled out about 100 rivets. Changing colors on the panels is quit rewarding! Maybe not, but I think it will look right for me. I removed the 4 small sections of brake lines that were built and stripped the fittings off the tubing. Now time for the forward progress, I put a fuel pump into the tank! HA! And tested it with 12v just to be sure it fired. I even got to use my Oetiker pliers.

Now with that done I plan to start working on the boot. First order of business is to remove the buggy whip mounting tab that's above the PS tank strap. Then I'll remove the bracket from the PS strap mount and relocated it down a couple inches to match the DS strap. And to finish that mod I need to make a run to the local Metal supply store and get some ¾" square tube. I'll get some 1" while I'm there.

And when I can't make too much noise in the garage I'll start going through the suspension and putting a TQ wrench on all the fasteners and checking the initial upper arm lengths to ball park the alignment. I guess I should read the manual. Starting on page 32 (I just peeked) and working my way to the point where I need to replace the cracked ball joint boots. Oh, and actually see what shocks I have and adjust the rebound while the front is blown apart. The previous owner used a tamper seal torque paste and it looks like red bird poop. Functional, yes. Fashionable? Depends on your love of bird dook. So As I go I'll remove the Torque Tamper and just use a paint pen.

I know some of you already think I'm nutty as squirrel but it's what makes me, me.
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[Justin]

Moving forward. Trunk modifications have begun. I had a couple hours today to make some noise in the shop. So I brought out the power tools and started hacking away. Bandsaw, hacksaw, reciprocating saw, and 4.5" angle grinder saw some time today. Let me start by saying the goal will be worth the effort in my eyes.

So here I go. As stated above I started by cutting the fuel tank brackets from the passenger side (PS) and welded them back on the mirror the DS. Then I double checked that the tank strap and the new bracket locations worked. And they did! No more random bolt/nut combo in the trunk. Next I cut out the top tubing and Welded in a couple 45s to smooth out that edge a bit. And that's where I ran outta time. Tomorrow if I can find a window between jobs I'll remove and the forward tubing and work on clearancing another tube for prep to add the 1" tubing to the subframe.

Couple of pictures just so you can get a small idea of what I'm up to.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212147&d=1743744392
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212148&d=1743744392
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212149&d=1743744392

[Justin]

Another bar down (literally). After working on making some room by removing the welds under the subframe cross bar I slid the new bar underneath. This puts that bar 1" lower than the original. Tacked it into place, then removed the old bar along with the battery mount plate and those diagonal bars. I finished welding in the new cross bar. Next up is new diagonal support bars for the sub-frame.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212216&d=1743908319
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212217&d=1743908319
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212218&d=1743908319
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212219&d=1743908319

[Justin]

Been another busy week. More time spent on work and other chores than the roadster. I need to give it a name. Or maybe the project needs a name. Any suggestions? So this week, when I wasn't working I did an important mod to the garage. MINISPLIT! Today was the first 100 degree day of 2025 and setting the AC to 82f (seems to be the sweet spot given the unit is 9 feet in the air) and let me tell you it was AWESOME! For years I would go out into the garage and call it quits before noon. Or wait until late in the evening. The swamp cooler did ok last season but it was a maintenance nightmare and required a LOT of space.

On the "Snake is Fake" (no? too cheesy? dad joke fail?) I'm almost done with the front suspension. I have the 2 new FF Metal F-Panels drilled. So now I need my FFR order to send off the engine compartment panels to powder coat for a color change. I can't install the F-Panel until they are coated. Can't install the upper A-arm until panels are installed. Vicious cycle. I need at least the front foot driver footbox so I can get that coated and installed so I can move onto brake line and steering.

But, in the meantime I have the trunk to work on. I'm nearing completion of the "junk in her trunk" mod. Just a couple more braces and the battery relocation bracket. Then I can work on templates for sheet metal braking and bending. I dropped the area that sits above the reared 4 inches. So now it's level with the rear half of the old trunk floor. But I dropped that area 5.25". And before y'all give me the stink eye for cutting out some tubing... The ¾ tubing used for the trunk and all supporting areas is 18guage tubing. Pretty thin in my opinion. So I used a combo of 14 and 11 gauge tubing to beef it up a bit. Sure it will add weight but I'm not building a racecar. I'll post back when the battery try is done and what the trunk will look like with panels in within the week (if I had to guess).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212540&d=1744432082
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212541&d=1744432082

[Justin]

So I've been slowly making progress. Cutting, welding, measuring, brainstorming... When I'm not working on the trunk because of noise restraints (sometimes I work in the shop past 10pm) I will turn wrenches on the suspension. I took the brakes off the front to make it easier to get all that stuff done, since it's now complete, minus the F-panel install, I decided to put the brakes back on. Well, as it turns out one of the caliper bolt holes was stripped. I didn't need to use heat to remove the bolt but they were stiff, the red loctite does its job. I installed a heli-coil after the drill and tap procedure. Super simple in the soft aluminum. Hopefully the FFR order comes in tomorrow. Then I can get the holes drilled for the brake bulk head fittings and pre-drill the rivet holes so I can take my new parts to the powdercoater.

Now that the trunk steel is done I can start working on making templates for the sheetmetal work. This is new territory for me so I'm very curious how it will go. I think I might go pick up the cheap HFT brake and see if I can make it do what I need. I have a feeling this is going to be way harder than I imagine.

Here's a few pictures of the trunk mods. I have some sanding cleaning and painting to do But I wanna finish the panels first.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212862&d=1745217852
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212863&d=1745217852
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212864&d=1745217852

[Justin]

Been busy! Some of you might have seen these on FB but I thought I'd share here too. I've found my limitations on the cheap metal break I bought. But it's still working. Just can't do what I really want. After spending hours measuring, trimming and cutting paper into templates I turned to cutting sheet metal. I used a wide variety of tools but my main tools were my jigsaw, 2' and 4' levels and a couple clamps. I managed to make all the panels without having to start over. A couple small trims here or there but over all happy with how I managed to pull that off.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213515&d=1746684761

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213516&d=1746684761

Then it was off to the powder-coater. I installed the side pieces. Left the floor loose for access to the chassis while I work on brake lines, fuel lines, and the e-brake actuator.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213518&d=1746684761

After installing the side panels for the rear of the chassis I installed the charcoal canister using riv-nuts and also mounted the reared vent tube to the chassis after I clamped the hose and add a breather cap. I used the cheap fuel filter as the canister with the scotchbrite pad and activated charcoal.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213519&d=1746684761

I also worked on customizing the bracket for the eSteering. Because of the FFMetal F-panels I needed some major modifications to mount that part.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213521&d=1746684809

This past Saturday we (my boys and I) pulled the engine and transmission out of the chassis. I'm not sure what it is. 351W of some sort. I'll pull the heads and intake off this weekend the boys so we can measure the bore and stroke, and possibly get an idea of max lift along with a ball park estimate of a compression ratio. I'll pull the pan to see if I can get some details on the rotating assembly. Oh and there is a small rear main leak.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213522&d=1746684809

Next up was fuel lines. I bought a cheap-ish Amazon tubing straightener. That was a fail. Not even close to handling the ⅜" stainless I'm using for feed and return. Fortunately, I was still inside the return window. So I dove deep into the web and found a much better tool for the job. It should be here tomorrow. In place of the tubing install we went to work fitting some of my new panels and the long task of drilling the driver foot box. That took all day. But the quality of the work is top shelf IMO.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213523&d=1746684809

[Blitzboy54]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213518&d=1746684761




Hey Justin,

I am curious about the modifications to the trunk area. I see that your going to put the battery on the side. What about the opening in the back? Is there more to come on that or does it stay open to the back of the body?

[Justin]

Hey Justin,

I am curious about the modifications to the trunk area. I see that your going to put the battery on the side. What about the opening in the back? Is there more to come on that or does it stay open to the back of the body?

Thanks for the question. It's a work in progress. I saw a guy, many moons ago, that had a seat built into the his Ranchero. I always thought it was clever. Hard to explain but he had a simple seat back that folded and he had a cooler to put his feet on. It was really simple. Almost dumb. But I've always thought it was cool. So maybe, just maybe, I can use my roadster trunk as a sort of "seat" at shows. I do plan to show the car. I love the variety of "art" in the form of automobiles. But if that doesn't work it will be incredibly easy to put the wall back.

[danmas]

Your trunk looks fabulous. I need to learn how to weld….

[Justin]

Your trunk looks fabulous. I need to learn how to weld…. Thank you!
Ya know with Youtube University and some time it's really not too bad. I learned 25 years ago but it's all pretty easy. There is an art to it, and if it sucks you can grind it down and start over.

Buy an ok Machine. Plan to spend $500-$1000 on a good used machine. Then just go to a metal supply store and dig through their scrap bin and buy scrap by the pound.

Having old eyes sucks, so readers or helmet lenses with built in magnifiers helps. A nice auto dark helmet is sweet too. I use CO2 for my mig and only bust out the TIG if I wanna make it look pretty. I simply suck at aluminum because I don't/haven't dedicated any time to it.

My wife gave a $1000 for my bday for "The Car" as she calls it. Because buying stuff for old guys is difficult. I used it to by a NICE miter chop saw with a cold blade. GAME CHANGER. At this point I want a nice metal brake because the one I have just barely gets the job done.

[danmas]

I had a bunch of true artists at the shop today and we chatted about the build process. It’s great to hear their stories and listen to their techniques. I have a crappy little welder and I’m gonna start with building a small box. Shortly after I figure out the basics I will step up. I have to say it’s great watching people that are good at this stuff. Gives me ideas and challenges me to stretch. Thanks for your advice and encouragement.

Dan

[Justin]

I had a bunch of true artists at the shop today and we chatted about the build process. It’s great to hear their stories and listen to their techniques. I have a crappy little welder and I’m gonna start with building a small box. Shortly after I figure out the basics I will step up. I have to say it’s great watching people that are good at this stuff. Gives me ideas and challenges me to stretch. Thanks for your advice and encouragement.

Dan

I don't know what your daily time availability is but there are classes offered at some community colleges. Something to consider if you wanna learn from an actual person and not the web.

[Justin]

It's been a LONG time since I've posted. I don't spend as much time in front of the lap top as I used to. And when I do it's because I'm looking for ideas or solutions or parts.

So looking at where I left off I'll go span some pictures to document where I've ended up (not nearly as far as I'd like).

I will say that I have spend a considerable amount of time messing around with the steering wheel assembly. I can't say I'm completely happy. But I don't own a lathe so I can only do some much.

I will also say that I spend a considerable amount of time staring and thinking. Then getting distracted and jumping around the project a bit. And with work and other family duties it hard to make time in the garage. I'll be back.

[Justin]

Since I left off in the trunk I thought I'd share where it's at. I finished building the battery box. Added the hold down. Installed the door and push button latch.

Everything went fairly smooth. I did end up making the battery box a touch short. When measuring the layout I forgot to include the battery hold down. So I ended up having to buy a special set of Allen sockets that would fit into the tight space.

I also added a couple of charging posts. It would be a considerable pain in the butt to "jump" the car if I ever needed to. Easy enough.

I ran the battery cable up the center of the car to the starter. The negative is mounted to a stud that's welded to the chassis.

I have a couple small pieces of alloy I need to cut/bend/paint and install before moving on towards insulation and carpet.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217891&d=1755882378
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217890&d=1755882378
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217892&d=1755882378

[Justin]

Fuel System...

I mentioned that I was working on it. And I did! The tubing straightener I bought from Amazon was junk. It couldn't handle the ⅜" stainless tubing. So I sent it back and ordered one from Nitrous Outlet. FLO Supply (https://nitrousoutlet.com/products/flo-supply-3-16-to-1-2-tubing-straightener?_pos=17&_sid=a3c4d5019&_ss=r)

I used my annealing process and 37 degree flare tool to make the ends. Some patience and LOADS of measuring before bending and it was done! Came out great! I used the appropriate fittings and on old filter (with new 10 micron cartridge) to finish it up.

JUNK!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217875&d=1755881852

LEGIT QUALITY!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217898&d=1755884039
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217880&d=1755881885
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217879&d=1755881852
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217878&d=1755881852
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217881&d=1755881885

[Mike.Bray]

Tubing lines look nice. Check that you can access the filter when the body is on and the trunk is complete.

[Justin]

Tubing lines look nice. Check that you can access the filter when the body is on and the trunk is complete.
Thanks Mike. I can access the filter from under the car pretty easily.

[Justin]

I dropped the engine in a couple weeks back just to check clearances and see where the electric parking brake will be mounted. I'm not new to remove/install engine game so I just wiggled it there by myself. No issues. But having a leveler helped a ton, having the shifter out helped, and no engine mounts. All that was replaced after wiggling the engine into the bay. I also wanted to get the headers installed so I can look at clearances for the heat shields on the foot boxes and to see where the firewall holes need to be drilled. Forte throttle linkage, ecu harness, gauges, rear harness and a few others. I have an AC EVAP box to sort out too. So right now I'm starting to dry fit some hardware. After that's all complete I'll pull the engine back out and get the panels and firewall to the powder coater.

But after I installed the engine I started work on the dash. Waiting for other parts to arrive can just be a buzz kill. I just felt like I wanted a head start on a task that I wasn't really looking forward to. Wiring. Especially with the addition of the Speedhut gauges, IE427 turn signal kit, billet buttons, 65 Mustang ignition switch and Line lock. Then after that the RF harness is getting a beating from the wire snips! And a full Haltech ECU will be wired in as well. I'll get into that one system at a time and share what I learned and what I might do different if had the chance.

Since I have been dinking around with the steering for quite a while I'll start there. I know there are a couple of ways this had been tackled but I had a couple requirements I wanted met.
First, I wanted self cancelling turn signals. This was a non-negotiable. I happen across a new, unused IE427 kit so I bought that. But that's where the big questions started to pop up. I wanted to have a removable steering wheel. But more for theft deterrent more than anything else. But with the IE427 kit and a NRG ring it would put the steering wheel into my chest.

So I bought a Fox Body hub from NRG and moved forward doing what I do best. Destroying a brand new part. I poked about and came up with the plan of using a lathe (which I don't own) and an end mill (don't have one of those either) to modify the hub. So I went to a friends house. He has a mini lathe and a drill press with the needed end-mill bit and cross slide vise. Amazingly that worked. First time. I should buy a lottery ticket.

From there I gutted a NRG release ring and installed that. And then I dusted off the 3D printer and quickly modeled a drill template for the steering wheel. Don't be fooled, The PLA I have had for a LONG time became brittle. So, apart came the machine to extract the filament AND while I was in there I swapped the nozzle to a .6. Ya know because bigger means more faster prints. No, only in theory. So to save 20 hrs worth of print time I went to make the switch. Broke the temp sender so then it was delayed for 3 days.

Template for drilling worked as intended. ⅛" Pilot holes, remove template finish with bigger holes and then counter sink the holes with one of those bits. A drill press REALLY makes this kinda thing a breeze. I do have one of those. A 1977 model I got from my Grandfather when he passed.

Now... it worked. I was able to get the wheel closer to the dash AND have the option to remove it. BuUUUUT I'm not super happy with it. So I might try again later.

To finish off the mod I bought a $12 turn signal stalk out of a '65 Mustang, cut the threads off (here I go destroying new parts again) chucked up the stem in the drill press and grinded off some thickness so it would fit into the assembly. A couple bends with the tubing bender and yahoo! We will see if it clears the body. Nope, it won't. And like an idiot I hard wired that unit to the dash harness.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218328&d=1756816475


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218329&d=1756816475


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218330&d=1756816475

[Justin]

After getting the steering wheel mostly sorted out I turned to test fitting the dash. I built the glove box. Not the biggest deal but of course the holes for the hinge don't line up. It was a full on mod game to make it where the door was centered in the opening. It works. Now with that out of the way I turned to the dash layout. So I covered the dash with low tack tape and set to work.

First up was getting a seat into the car. Not hard mounted but just set in there. However the car did come with the breeze seat mount kit. So I went to work doing a mock fit of that. More holes drilled and that was done.

After moving my gauges around for a while and looking here and Facebook for ideas and inspiration I landed on something unique but not super unique. I wanted to be able to see the gauges without the steering wheel in the way. So I mounted the wheel and drew an outline on the tape from my seated perspective. Got out the compass, and ruler. And this is where it landed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217883&d=1755881885

With the layout complete, I drilled holes, sanded edges, and lined the buttons up. I decided to us a momentary switch for the starter. Had some fun with it. I used a Cobra picture and the "427" font from the side badge and made a vector image for the button. I plan to use the neutral switch in the trans as a safety switch for starting the car. I want to be able to start the car without sitting in it. I will still use the clutch switch as well.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217882&d=1755881885

And then. Came out good. I think this would work out just fine.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217885&d=1755881909
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217886&d=1755881909

[gbranham]

Looks great! My dash is similar to yours with respect to gauge layout, but I put the fuel gauge and the speedo behind the wheel. That's all I really look at now that I'm on the road and have logged enough miles to feel confident in my engine build.

Greg

218339

[Justin]

Looks great! My dash is similar to yours with respect to gauge layout, but I put the fuel gauge and the speedo behind the wheel. That's all I really look at now that I'm on the road and have logged enough miles to feel confident in my engine build.

Greg


Looks clean! I like that!

[Justin]

Dash. Oh what have I got myself into.

I don't even know where to start with this post...

I put the RF Harness loosely into the car. And what I found was about 2 feet of extra wire EVERY WHERE. Now I know this kit is universal but good lord my OCD is at DEFCON 2. Every time I turn around I'm making notes and cutting the loom apart.

So I grabbed a seat and began the slow and painful part of dealing with my OCD (I do have it under control. My motto... GE "good enough").

Ditched the stock ignition switch. I'm using a 1965 Mustang switch instead.
Decided to use the headlamp switch but without the courtesy lamps.
Decided to use and e-Stopp kit. That came with a blank billet button. Ditched the button, had to wire in my own. Figure out how to wire in the parking brake lamp indicator.
Dedicated Hazard Switch needed to be added.
Wire in a relay for high beams powered off the IE427 turn signal assembly(TS Kit).
Horn, easy to wire off of the IE427-TS Kit.
Line-Lock Switch needs to activate a relay. Use fuel pump relay.
Not using the Fuel pump relay. Need to power fuel pump via HCO output from Haltech.
Not using the fan Relay. Also powered by Haltech.
Use fan relay for the AC compressor and send a command wire to Haltech to power fan when AC is on (regardless of coolant temp).
Use HCO to power MSD 6AL.
Wire Interior lamp button to LEDs.
Wire in all the Speed Hut gauges. Fortunately only one requires 5v.

Seriously, I could go on for a LONG time about this mess.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217884&d=1755881885

[edwardb]

I feel you pain. I too am pretty OCD regarding wiring and end up modifying the harness quite a bit as well. But in all fairness, hopefully you'll at least give credit for the fact you're going off the reservation for many of the circuits, e.g. not using them as designed. No problem with that, but no wonder many changes and differences. And hopefully those wire nuts are just for mocking things up? They don't belong in car wiring. Just saying.

[Justin]

I feel you pain. I too am pretty OCD regarding wiring and end up modifying the harness quite a bit as well. But in all fairness, hopefully you'll at least give credit for the fact you're going off the reservation for many of the circuits, e.g. not using them as designed. No problem with that, but no wonder many changes and differences. And hopefully those wire nuts are just for mocking things up? They don't belong in car wiring. Just saying.

Wire nuts are just to hold things together temporarily.

[Justin]

Over the past month or so I have been working on the dash area. Getting the firewall sorted is part of that. I am using the FFR forward wall panel. I do plan to use an AC unit and a full size glove box compartment. I will do a full detailed write up of the AC and how I put that together in a separate thread. I have a 427 Hardtop so I'm leaning towards some defrost vents for window fogging. Mounted to the firewall I have a distribution block for various accessories, the E-Stopp box, the Haltech and that's about it. But because of the wiring going through the dash and MSD, Fuel Pressure regulator, and catch can mounted to the firewall in the engine compartment it all needs to be laid out at the same time. I just finished poking all the holes in it so now it can go get powder coated. And now that the templates for the heat shields and the throttle linkage is done I can finally get all the footwell panels coated as well. While the parts are at the coater I'll pull the engine back out and build the harness for that.

[Justin]

While I wait for some panels to be coated I worked on the engine harness a bit. Cutting wires, crimping, soldering, heat shrink, loom etc.

Learned that when using the braided plastic loom, use a torch (not a "flashlight") and just barely melt the ends that are cut. They will lightly fuse together and keep the loom from un-winding itself.

I also learned that sometimes you must get creative when using different gauge wires on one connector. Pins do not fit all. But they can be nudged to cooperate.

I think at this point I plan to make some ⅜" SS hardline to feed the rails. This will keep things looking tidy. I really wanted to run the feed on the inside of the injector oil but there just isn't room.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218702&d=1757640008

[Mike.Bray]

Looking nice. Is that a ProFlo?

If you really want to get crazy you can run some polished 1/2" stainless tubing and hide the injector wiring in it. It's a lot of work, I know, but it does look nice.

I noticed your cam is only 110 degrees LSA, that's a little light for EFI. It will work but it is going to compromise you some.

[Justin]

Looking nice. Is that a ProFlo? Accufab Throttle body. When I built my 363 back in 2008 I used this same TB. What I found out recently when researching engine heights etc for the Cobra was that the EFI Victor Sr. is a little lower than the regular Carbed version. Coupled with the thinner TB design it shouldn't be an issue. But what is an issue is the linage arm hits the bottom of the air filter pan. So I will try a spacer first (I'll 3D print one for test fitting) and if that doesn't work I'll get busy with some sheet metal and make a cut out in the filter pan.


If you really want to get crazy you can run some polished 1/2" stainless tubing and hide the injector wiring in it. It's a lot of work, I know, but it does look nice. That would be a lot of work. I think with the wire loom behind the rail/injectors it will be tolerable. And making hardlines will be pretty unique.


I noticed your cam is only 110 degrees LSA, that's a little light for EFI. It will work but it is going to compromise you some. The compression ratio is 10.6:1. I did try to make the quench as tight as I could. But in AZ the best gas we get is 91. And with it being so hot, I don't want to risk any damage to the engine. So I went a little soft on the cam. Definitely a lot of room to grow. Except the lift, pretty much stuck at .600 unless I switch springs. I have a lot of room on the pistons as it sits.

[i.e.427]

Since I have been dinking around with the steering for quite a while I'll start there. I know there are a couple of ways this had been tackled but I had a couple requirements I wanted met.
First, I wanted self cancelling turn signals. This was a non-negotiable. I happen across a new, unused IE427 kit so I bought that. But that's where the big questions started to pop up. I wanted to have a removable steering wheel. But more for theft deterrent more than anything else. But with the IE427 kit and a NRG ring it would put the steering wheel into my chest.


Not true. All that work could have been avoided, had you just contacted us and had us make you a turn signal including one of our billet quick release hubs made exclusively for the NRG SRK-400.

Frank

[Justin]

Not true. All that work could have been avoided, had you just contacted us and had us make you a turn signal including one of our billet quick release hubs made exclusively for the NRG SRK-400.

Frank

I saw that you have a new hub. But it’s not a big deal. I might revisit my steering down the road. If that’s the case I might reach out.

[Justin]

Engine harness is complete. It wasn't too bad. Basically I have 2 harnesses. One is for the gauge sensors. I used a 6 pin Deutsch connector for that. The 24 pin connector has all the Haltech wiring. Crank, cam, injectors, TPS, MAP, AIT, Fuel pressure, IAC and the starter wire. Used all 24. I of have a HCO output for injectors that is separate and I will need a power wire for the AC clutch.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218777&d=1757737479

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219016&d=1758159653

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219017&d=1758159653

On the chassis harness side of things I wired the MSD box, rear harness, gauge sensors, and E-Stopp to the other 24 pin connector.

I did get the parts back from the coater so finished installing the footbox alloy and firewall. I used insulation on the firewall, mounted the FPR, ECU, MSD, E-Stopp, both 24 pin connectors and the Deutsch DTP 4-pin bulk head connector. I also used a pillow block bearing on the throttle linkage to finish that look.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219019&d=1758159653


I have some time today so I think I'm going to try and finish the firewall wiring and start on the heat shields for the foot boxes.

[Nigel Allen]

That's some really nice work on the wiring. You should be proud!

I used the same foil backed insulation on my firewall and foot boxes. It works perfectly and has stood up well over 10 years. It isn't particularly pretty, but with our hot climate, a necessity.

Cheers,
Nige

[Higgybulin]

That's puurrrrdy! Great job!
Higgy

[Justin]

That's some really nice work on the wiring. You should be proud!

I used the same foil backed insulation on my firewall and foot boxes. It works perfectly and has stood up well over 10 years. It isn't particularly pretty, but with our hot climate, a necessity.

Cheers,
Nige

Thanks Nige. I'm going to 'try' to cover as much as possible with the cheap insulation. Gets real hot here in AZ.