DIY Brake Duct Inlet Screens

[Rebostar]

For all the "old salts" that have been making theses screens for years, You can skip this thread, or add any comments you like to improve the process. This was for the 1st timers. As I was going to make a set I decided to snap a few pics of the process.
So I made my own brake cooling inlet duct screens and thought I'd share. I bought a section of gutter screen from Lowes ($5 bucks). I made a paper template of the duct inlet opening, then added 3/16" all around to account for the body thickness. Then I cut out the template and transfered that to a piece of 3/4" oak (Pine will do). This I cut out with a jig saw with about a 15' angle to mimick the shape of the inside of the duct, then I made a duplicate out of the same oak board. I cut out the gutter screen section leaving 3/4" oversize, then clamped the screen section between the two oak "bucks", which I clamped into my bench vice. Then using a small ballpeen hammer I flattened the outside flange all around. Then removed it from the bucks. I then laid the screen flat side down on the bench and using 1/2" line tape I marked a cutting guide to cut off all the excess screen. Test fit shows a perfect fit. The screen appears to be powder coated and can be painted any color of your choice. Mine will be Silver/Aluninum to match the Stainless Steel radiator rock deflector that will cover the radiator.
Happy Trails
Allyn

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[Nigel Allen]

Nice work Allyn. I would happily fly on an aircraft you have maintained.

Cheers,

Nige

[CraigS]

How did you attach them to the body?

[Rebostar]

How did you attach them to the body?

Craig,
I used a 1 inch length of blue making tape top and bottom!!!..;) Not really, just to take the pic. Jeff Kliner uses a silicone bead all around. He said he's never had one fall off after 50+ installs so I'll do the same thing. The inside surface of my body is primer grey tinted Raptor Bed Liner so I'll be using grey silicone. I'll use a couple zip ties and a couple Q-tips to hold them in place while they dry.
Happy Trails

[CraigS]

I did similar silicone many years ago but your shaping technique is much more professional than mine was.

[J R Jones]

Allyn, I had a similar task on one of my street vehicles. I found that when I park it in my remote area down the driveway in the woods, the mice/mouse have their way with it.
The indication was shredded material on the carpets and the "smell". It is a Honda Ridgeline and I expected the interior to be sealed.
I pulled out the rear seat cushion and backrest to find a cantaloupe sized nest on the floor. In the steel structure between the backrest and cargo box I found another nest, softball sized. I pulled it out with a forceps through a 0.7 hole. That area is also where the stereo subwoofer lives and there was a baseball sized nest in there, accessed through the tuned port.
The suspect entry point was the HVAC exhaust port/valve (flap-valves) on that rear bulkhead.
I had SS wire mesh on hand and fabricated a wood mandrel the shape of the flap-valve housing. After forming the (2) screens are held with SS safety wire.
I prefer SS wire mesh for aesthetics and protection.
jim

I have photos but that (load) utility is not working tonight.

[Rebostar]

Allyn, I had a similar task on one of my street vehicles. I found that when I park it in my remote area down the driveway in the woods, the mice/mouse have their way with it.
The indication was shredded material on the carpets and the "smell". It is a Honda Ridgeline and I expected the interior to be sealed.
I pulled out the rear seat cushion and backrest to find a cantaloupe sized nest on the floor. In the steel structure between the backrest and cargo box I found another nest, softball sized. I pulled it out with a forceps through a 0.7 hole. That area is also where the stereo subwoofer lives and there was a baseball sized nest in there, accessed through the tuned port.
The suspect entry point was the HVAC exhaust port/valve (flap-valves) on that rear bulkhead.
I had SS wire mesh on hand and fabricated a wood mandrel the shape of the flap-valve housing. After forming the (2) screens are held with SS safety wire.
I prefer SS wire mesh for aesthetics and protection.
jim

I have photos but that (load) utility is not working tonight.

I have some of the SS screen I used to protect the radiator Its a bit thick, but I thought I'd give that a try as well.

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[J R Jones]

Allyn, In my case flow is not an issue but in the past flow was a concern. Wire diameter and wire count are issues and often the MMCarr selection chart lists open cross section as a percentage.
I bought 0.035 at 3/16 spacing and 0.054 at 5/16 spacing at a bankruptcy auction. I can cut the .035 with a good sheet metal snips.
I got about 80% shape with a hammer over wood mandrel and finished the bends with wide jaw vice grip. Mouse-proof.
My photos still will not load; I must be persona non grata.
jim

[Rebostar]

OOPPPS, I forgot the oil cooler inlet. Not to worry one section of that "Lowes" gutter screen is enough for both brake duct inlets AND the oil cooler inlet. Same techique as before!

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[Rebostar]

There was lots of leftover rock screen from my radiator protection screen. So I made a set of screens made from the Summit .035 X 3/16" stailess steel screen. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/AAF-ALL22272. I'll paint the Lowes Gutter Screen set House of Kolor Galaxy Grey Metalic and compare those with the stainless steel set and install the ones I like.

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