Question on FFR Rear Brake Conversion

[maginter]

Hello -

I am wanting to purchase this kit from FFR:

#16285 - Performance 11.65" Rear Brake Set

However I would like to have drilled and slotted rotors and maybe different pads. Is it possible to get this kit with everything except the rotors and pads? If so, what are the part numbers I need?

Thanks!

Mark

[Jeff Kleiner]

It comes only as a full kit. What makes you think you need different pads? I've used the 16285 kit; it includes Stoptech 309 compound pads that are a "Sport Performance" level with a much higher coefficient of friction than an OEM or street compound and are suitable for light to moderate track use with zero fade up to 1200 degrees and 5% at 1400. They don't dust too bad. If you insist on changing them they are for a 1994-2001 Mustang.

Jeff

[maginter]

It comes only as a full kit. What makes you think you need different pads? I've used the 16285 kit; it includes Stoptech 309 compound pads that are a "Sport Performance" level with a much higher coefficient of friction than an OEM or street compound and are suitable for light to moderate track use with zero fade up to 1200 degrees and 5% at 1400. They don't dust too bad. If you insist on changing them they are for a 1994-2001 Mustang.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff -

The only reason I mentioned the pads, was I am waiting to hear back from FFR as to what they are. I just don't want to spend money on Rotors and Pad, if they are not going to get used. Now, it just comes down to having extra rotors to get rid of.

[Indy Shu]

Drilled and slotted rotors look cool, but are not usually recommended for high performance.

[Jeff Kleiner]

The car currently has drums in the rear, right? I think it was already discussed in another one of your posts but when changing to the discs in the rear you'll also need to change the master cylinder to one from a 1994/1995 Mustang Cobra with a 15/16" bore. In addition you will need hub centric rings to center the rotors on the drum brake axle hubs:

https://lmr.com/item/SVE-4234HS/mustang-hub-centric-ring-79-93

And I agree with John regarding drilled and slotted rotors.

Jeff

[maginter]

The car currently has drums in the rear, right? I think it was already discussed in another one of your posts but when changing to the discs in the rear you'll also need to change the master cylinder to one from a 1994/1995 Mustang Cobra with a 15/16" bore. In addition you will need hub centric rings to center the rotors on the drum brake axle hubs:

https://lmr.com/item/SVE-4234HS/mustang-hub-centric-ring-79-93

And I agree with John regarding drilled and slotted rotors.

Jeff


Already addressed. I currently have 5 lugs all the way around. I am going to Power Brakes and have a new MC to support the rear disc, so that is why I am doing this now rather than wait until next year.

As for the drilled/slotted, I am not really planning any High Performance driving with this car. That is what my GT350 is for....LOL That is why I am keeping the 10.5"/10.65" setup not upgrading to the Cobra big brakes. Keeping it simple for a weekend or Rally drive. So, looking purely at appearance. However, if there is a safety concern, then I would be more than willing to reconsider.

[Jeff Kleiner]

They are prone to cracking.

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSNX0-6qwJMiN3tsq1rTMOYJcExOKLdrKbfqO2rXVyEzw&s

Jeff

[maginter]

They are prone to cracking.

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSNX0-6qwJMiN3tsq1rTMOYJcExOKLdrKbfqO2rXVyEzw&s

Jeff

OK, that is a good reason..... Is it because of the disc thickness and diameter? I run drilled on my GT350, but they are vented and the size of a medium pizza. So, they just get chewed up...

Thanks Jeff, I will keep FFR kit with the solid disc on my MK1.....