Jim's Gumball2 Build Thread

[Jim Doak]

A first for me: I'm going to attempt to document my Factory Five assembly in this build log.

First, a little background. This is my second Factory Five build. I purchased a Cobra kit in 2000 (FFR 2117), drove it 46.6K miles then sold it 5 years ago. After selling the Roadster, I bought a low mileage 2003 manual transmission C5 Vette. A very nice car, but it didn't scratch the itch like the Cobra did. So, I sold it this March and ordered the Mark 4 complete kit in May. The Roadster (FFR 10990) arrived July 26th, and after completing the inventory, the actual build commenced August 4th. Options I purchased included the IRS package, chrome roll bar (only item remaining on backorder/POL), 15" Halibrand wheels, 11.65" brakes, oil cooler, power steering, leather seats, vintage GPS gauges and some other odds and ends. One other item I requested was the base version driver side front footbox aluminum panel. When I built my first car, I used a Flaming River manual rack and manual brakes with the modified pedal. A few years later I retrofit a power steering system and while I was at it, installed Hydroboost assisted brakes. I can't overstate how much I enjoyed the power steering and brake upgrades. So, this car's using a 1995 Mustang pedal box allowing the relatively easy installation of vacuum assisted brakes, and as I mentioned above, I ordered the power steering option from Factory Five.

When I built my first car, I utilized the forums extensively for ideas and guidance. And now with YouTube, etc. there's so much more information available, well, it's fantastic. (I've already used I.E. 427 (Frank), Mike Everson, Paul Borror and others' expertise in my build.)

Anyway, I'm well into my build (I'm retired, so lots of time to dedicate to the project). Photos and more updates to follow.

I've attached a couple pics of 2117, licensed in Utah as "GUMBALL", hence this Gumball 2 build.

[danmas]

Frank does a pretty great job of breaking things down. Since you have already done one you are miles ahead of me but I am looking forward to reading about gumball 2.

Dan

[Jim Doak]

Obligatory delivery pics...

[Jim Doak]

Here's some front suspension and "F" panel pics.

[Jim Doak]

Here's a pic of the vacuum booster spacer provided by Mike Everson as well the frame mod needed for booster/diaphragm clearance.

[Jim Doak]

The rear suspension install was pretty straightforward, though I needed a Buddy to help me install the differential.

However, when I installed the rear spindles, I didn't know that I'd need to cut off an additional ear to facilitate the installation of the 11.65" brakes. Sure would have been nice if Factory Five had made a note of that in the instruction booklet. Because I didn't feel comfortable trying to cut off the ears with the spindles mounted to the vehicle, off they came for the surgery.

[Jim Doak]

Here's a few photos of the front brakes. As you can see, I used Mike Everson's booster spacer, a vacuum booster from Amazon, and a 1995 Mustang Cobra master cylinder.

[Jim Doak]

I purchased a used 1995 Mustang pedal box from a salvage yard in Georgia. It arrived very clean and in great shape, and even had new pedal pads installed. However, I installed a new brake light switch as well as a Steeda clutch quadrant and a new clutch interlock switch pigtail.

So far I've installed a couple of used Mustang parts in the build: the pedal box as well as an emergency brake handle. So I'll probably have some Wilwood parts for sale in the future...

[Jim Doak]

The rear brakes posed a couple of problems; first, I had a hell of a time installing the brake pads, and even more frustrating, when I went to tighten the passenger side banjo bolt, it snapped in half. (A forum search showed that I wasn't the first builder to have the banjo bolt issue.)

[Jim Doak]

More rear brake line pics. I've also included a photo of the broken banjo bolt, which appears to consist of a low-grade alloy. There's also a pic of the Wilwood part number of the banjo bolts I'm using in the rear calipers. The Wilwood bolts seem to be of a much higher quality.

[Jim Doak]

As mentioned above, I'm using an E-brake handle out of a 1998 Mustang. Connected to it are new cables for the same year car.

The setup seems to work well, at least better than the under-round-tube cables and Lokar handle used on my Mark 1 build.

[Jim Doak]

With this post I'm now up to date.

Today I mounted my fuel tank. As mentioned in a separate forum post, I'm debating whether to go with a Sniper 2 fuel injection system or a good old fashioned carburetor. Since I'm currently undecided on which way I'm going to go, I'm planning on installing a fuel supply system that can support either choice with the option of which fuel pressure regulator is utilized.

I'm using a Pro-M fuel pump hanger which incorporates AN-6 fittings on both the supply and return lines. Attached to the hanger is a Walbro 255 lph pump. I've got a Trick Flow fuel pressure regulator currently on order. Now I've just got to order fittings, etc. and I can begin running the fuel lines.

[Mike.Bray]

https://www.imagecoast.com/images/MichaelBray1/458267311511184114829469823322515637707691n.jpg

[Jim Doak]

Over the past couple of days I attached/riveted the insulated brake line clips to the chassis and shortened the rear legs of the upper control arms. I ended up shortening the legs by about 9/16", so I should be able to get to the desired caster/camber values for power steering.

[Jim Doak]

Today I finished test fitting Frank's (i.e.427) dropped trunk kit and began the install of the Breeze front-mounted battery box.

I made the fuel level sender and pump covers removable instead of being riveted on as directed in the instructions.

[Jim Doak]

I've spent the last month primarily prepping my engine for eventual installation in the chassis. It's a BluePrint 302 that I've dressed to be more "vintage Cobra appropriate". To me that means COBRA valve covers and a repo 289/302 Hi-Po air cleaner. I've also added a reverse rotation water pump, bracketry, power steering pump and an alternator from March. I've got BBK shorty headers because I'm going with an undercar exhaust system similar to my earlier build.

Here's a photo of the engine from BluePrint's Web site.

[Jim Doak]

And this is what it looks like now, after installation of the accessories. (I'll decide later if I'll attached the Hi-Po 302 decal to the air cleaner. It's just sitting on there for the pic.)206515

[Grubester]

Ah, "undercar exhaust system". Are you meaning rear exhaust? I'm a few months into building a Mk 4 289 USRRC-style, but am angling for how to pull off a rear exhaust system. I have plenty of ideas and some mental "mock-ups", but curious the direction you're taking. I had five different '65 GT350s with side exhaust in the period of 1968 through 1978 and the side exhaust was getting tiring. And that was with roll-up windows! I'm installing a BP 347/Tremec. Carbureted.

[Jim Doak]

Nope, not rear exhaust. I'm planning on doing the same thing as on my first FFR; using Spintech low-profile mufflers and having the exhaust exit immediately in front of the rear tires. I suspect that my exhaust will be similar to your Mustangs' exhaust systems. And if you think your Mustang or my Cobra's exhaust systems are loud, they're a lot quieter than the typical Cobra side pipes. (My first Cobra initially had FFR's side pipes; way, way too loud for me. That's why I went undercar.) Also, the Spintech mufflers may be quieter than the glass mufflers I assume were used on your Mustangs.

[Grubester]

Okay, got it! That would be very similar to the '65 Shelby's, but quieter not having the louder glass packs.
I was considering that approach, too. My 1963 Cobra (owned in 1969) had exactly that style. Never drove it, as it was very slightly damaged at the LF body and lower A-arm. Too bad.

[Jacob McCrea]

Looks like it's coming along nicely. If you end up needing more hands to install the engine I'd be happy to help. I'm on the east side of SLC.

[Jim Doak]

Looks like it's coming along nicely. If you end up needing more hands to install the engine I'd be happy to help. I'm on the east side of SLC.

Jacob, I may take you up on your offer. We moved up to Midway from Sandy a year ago, so I don't know many local guys able to aid in any car-related activities, like installing an engine or dropping a fiberglass body onto an FFR chassis.:)

[Jacob McCrea]

Reach out any time. 412-651-four six three four. I am up on the mountain often enough and even if not can head up any time.

[Jim Doak]

Over the past few weeks, including a 9-day Thanksgiving trip to California, I've been working on the fuel system.

A couple of months ago I ordered 25' feet of 3/8" steel fuel line from Summit; however, it came in a coil but I couldn't get it straightened enough to work for me. So, then I tried 3/8" copper-nickel fuel line, better but not good enough. So, like some other builders, I ponied-up and ordered two 8' sticks of straight stainless steel tube from McMaster-Carr. Much better!

As shown in the attached pics, I'm using a Pro-M hanger for the 255 LPH fuel pump, a Trick Flow fuel filter, and an Edelbrock fuel pressure regulator for a carbed application.

Now I've got to build the flex lines. (I've already got the Fragola PTFE fuel line and fittings.)

[Jim Doak]

Today I completed installation of the fuel system, including connecting the PTFE hoses and hard-mounting the 3/8" SS lines to the chassis.

[Jim Doak]

And here's the supply and return lines to and from the fuel pressure regulator.

[Jim Doak]

Earlier this week I installed my starter index plate, flywheel and bell housing. I then checked the housing for concentricity with the crankshaft and found that it was out of the called-for maximum runout of 0.005". So I purchased some offset dowel pins from Summit which I installed today. I rechecked runout and am now well within spec.

Here's a few pics of the process, with one showing my shop helper.

Within the next couple of days I should have the transmission connected to the engine, then it's time to install the package into the chassis.

[Jim Doak]

Today I installed the clutch, bell housing, transmission, starter, and Canton oil filter adapter. Unfortunately, when I removed the transmission from the shipping box, I noticed that the orange plastic sleeve/plug used to prevent oil leaks from the tailshaft was damaged. Ultimately, I was able to remove the plug but damaged the tailshaft seal in the process. I called Silver Sport Transmissions and they're supposed to be sending me a new seal.

[Jim Doak]

I spent yesterday and today fitting the dash to the chassis.

I welded four 3/4" x 3/4" x 1" tabs to the underside of the dash hoop so I can easily install and remove the dash once the body is fitted. I drilled and tapped a 10-24 threaded hole in each of the tabs so I can use SS hardware to attach the completed dash to the chassis. There's a larger tab in the center of the dash hoop that I can drill and tap in the future if I decide I need an additional fastener.

[Jim Doak]

Some friends and fellow Cobra owners/builders/enthusiasts braved the weather today and drove up to our house to help me install my engine.

A big Thank You! to Scott, Dirk, Joe, Todd and Jake. With their help, the install was a piece of cake, with no scrapes, scratches or mishaps.

Now it's on to wiring, and installation of the clutch cable, mechanical throttle linkage, etc...

[Jim Doak]

The last few days have been dedicated to installation of the clutch cable and the IRS driveshaft. Like most things in life, nothing is as simple as you think it should be. (The driveshaft was a bit of a challenge.)

[gbranham]

Did you have to drill out the holes in your shifter handle to accommodate the TKX shifter bolts? My bolts were too big. Fortunately, and inexplicably, my kit came with a short shifter that fit. 208726

[TTimmy]

Looks like the build is going well!

Did you upgrade to the ford clutch cable? I know some folks that have had the FFR cable crap out pretty quickly. Seems the can’t handle the heat and with melts or gums up. Just want to make sure take the opportunity to upgrade it while access is not much of an issue.

[Jim Doak]

gbranham: Yes, I used a 3/8" bit to drill out the FFR shifter to fit the TKX lever. (I went slow and used lots of cutting paste to drill the two holes. Only took about 10 minutes or so.)

TTimmy: Yes, I upgraded to the Ford Performance clutch cable. It's the one I used in my first build. I put over 46,000 miles on it with zero issues. (I've read about builders having problems with the FFR provided cable.) This is what I ordered from Summit: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-7553-C302

[Jim Doak]

The last few days have been dedicated to installation of the Forte mechanical throttle linkage.

One of the things I wasn't crazy about on my first build was the cable-actuated throttle. I used a Lokar cable and although it worked, sometimes it would stick a bit and cause a slight idle hang. Most of the problems with the system could probably be attributed to the convoluted routing. (A large "S" bend from the front of the footbox to the rear side of the carb/throttle body.)

So, one of the early decisions with this build was to try Forte's mechanical throttle linkage.

Overall, I'm pretty happy with the install. However, I did have a couple of minor issues, one of which was self-inflicted.

To provide a solid mounting base for the two rod ends, I welded a couple of 2" x 2" angle brackets on the passenger side of the firewall to the top of 2" x 2" square tube. I then bolted the rod ends through the firewall and angle brackets, providing a nice, solid mount for the 3/8" shaft. However, I initially drilled the holes in the angle brackets about an inch too high, causing the driver side throttle lever to hit the top of the footbox. Whoops! So, I redrilled the angle brackets about an inch lower, providing adequate clearance for the footbox throttle lever. The black blanking plates shown in the attached pics are what I fabbed-up to cover the mis-drilled holes. (Don't tell anybody!!! But hopefully my screwup will prevent someone else from making the same mistake)

In my install I placed the two lever arms parallel with each other in an attempt to eliminate any wonky geometry and make the gas pedal-to-carb actuation as linear as possible. I guess I'll see how that works once I get my car on the road.

The second issue was due to my use of a Mustang pedal box. The rod from the Breeze throttle pedal to the driver side lever arm was hitting the clutch/brake cross-shaft in the pedal box. So, I redrilled the hole in the throttle pedal about an inch lower, providing the necessary clearance.

Now I'm working on connecting the fuel system to the carb and running a vacuum hose from the intake manifold to the brake booster. That will conclude most of the mechanical work, then it's on to more wiring.

[Jim Doak]

The past several days have been dedicated to wiring the distributor, alternator and starter, and fitting the battery cables.

Doesn't seem like much progress considering the number of hours I spent, but I guess that's the way it goes...

[Jim Doak]

The last few weeks have been dedicated to continuing wiring the car and other things that crop up during the process that may affect access, such as installing a remote oil filter bracket.

I fabricated an aluminum bracket that's attached to the front X-member, with the bracket used to mount the remote oil filter.

I've also incorporated what I think are some good ideas found on the Forum and well as YouTube. Like Frank's (i.e. 427) idea to mount the headlight switch on the left side of the steering wheel and mounting the inertia switch on the right side of the dash in an effort to make the area behind the gauges a little less crowded. I also installed the trailer converter for the taillights in the rear harness, but instead of installing it behind the dash, I spliced it in near the fuel tank.

[Jim Doak]

The last couple of weeks have been primarily dedicated to wiring; however, yesterday I completed installation of the remote oil filter hoses.

I've also installed the Breeze lower radiator hose. Clearance is TIGHT between the stainless steel tube and nearby equipment; with the battery box on one side and the oil filter on the other.

I was also able to plumb the power steering hoses.

[Jim Doak]

Today I pretty much finished my dash assembly and wiring.

Installation and removal should be relatively easy with three plugs for the Ron Francis harness and a couple of 3-pin Weather Packs; one for the hazard switch and another for Frank's (i.e.427) turn signal switch.

[Jim Doak]

Not related to my build, but here's a couple of BBK exhaust header pics for Steve Grube (Grubester).

[Jim Doak]

Over the last week I installed my completed dash as well as a couple of under-dash panels. Each panel has a courtesy light controlled by the light switch; I mounted the calibration buttons for the Speedhut gauges (speedo, fuel gauge and tach) on the left side of the driver's side panel.

[Jim Doak]

Yesterday I mounted and wired the horns and today I finished routing the front harness and attaching it to the frame. I also connected the cooling fan. However, the FFR-supplied fan connector didn't want to hook-up to the Ron Francis harness, so I cut the plug and installed a leftover Weather Pack connector from my first build.

[Jim Doak]

The final major accomplishment over the past week was the installation of the radiator. As you can see in the pics, I've used a couple of Breeze accessories including upper and lower radiator mounts, the T filler for the upper hose and the lower hose/tube combo.

Also got around to adding fluid to the TKX tranny.

[Jim Doak]

Yesterday I completed the installation of the i.e.427 dropped trunk as well as energized and tested the fuel pump. All went well except for a small leak at the connection between the fuel pump hanger outlet and the AN hose fitting. Tightened it down and seems to have cured the problem.

Then moved on to adjusting fuel pressure and set it at 5.5 psi.

Today I completed my electrical testing. Temporarily connected the headlights, parking lights and taillights and all operated correctly. Self-canceling turn signal worked as did the hazard switch.

Lastly, I installed a few labels for the hazard, dimmer and manual fan switches.

[Jim Doak]

Two days ago I finished installing the trunk floor aluminum.

Yesterday I added about 3.5 gallons of water to the radiator/cooling system and filled the power steering reservoir. Then I disconnected power to the fuel pump and the ignition coil wire, bolted on the J pipes and cranked the engine to circulate oil throughout the engine. Then I reconnected power to the fuel pump and coil and tried starting the engine.

Success!!

Engine fired almost immediately and settled into a nice, lopey idle. (Carb idle speed set too low; it doesn't have enough cam to have a really lopey idle.)

Now it's on to installation of the rear cockpit and transmission tunnel cover aluminum and fabrication of an undercar exhaust system.

[TTimmy]

Two days ago I finished installing the trunk floor aluminum.

Yesterday I added about 3.5 gallons of water to the radiator/cooling system and filled the power steering reservoir. Then I disconnected power to the fuel pump and the ignition coil wire, bolted on the J pipes and cranked the engine to circulate oil throughout the engine. Then I reconnected power to the fuel pump and coil and tried starting the engine.

Success!!

Engine fired almost immediately and settled into a nice, lopey idle. (Carb idle speed set too low; it doesn't have enough cam to have a really lopey idle.)


Congrats Man - that’s a major milestone!

Keep up the good work!

[Jim Doak]

So, I go out to the garage this morning to begin work to install the rear cockpit wall. (That turned out to be an all-day job...)

Anyway, I see a small puddle of fluid under the front of the engine. Initially I thought that it might be power steering fluid, but soon figured it wasn't because the liquid had a blue tint to it. In fact, it was the exact same color as the BluePrint break-in oil. Turns out I forgot to tighten the 1/2" plug on the remote oil filter mount.

Not too upset, could have been a lot worse.

[Jim Doak]

The last few weeks have been spent verifying that the steering rack was centered (it wasn't), installing Fatmat butyl sound control, the wiper motor and trunk struts.

When I was working on centering the steering rack, while turning the steering wheel side-to-side, I found that I had a problem with my flexible brake lines. When checking progress, I noticed a puddle of fluid under the driver side front wheel assembly. Evidently, I had too much steering travel and the brake lines near the caliper banjo bolts got pinched against the lower A-arms, breaking the flexible hoses. So, a call to Factory Five to get new flexible hoses and the purchase of a set of steering rack limiter spacers and all is well now.

On my first build, I installed Fatmat sound/vibration control product. It worked really well and helped to make the car feel more solid and rattle-free. So, I installed the same product in my current build. It took multiple sheets of poster board used to make templates, but I finished the installation yesterday and am very happy with the end result.

[Jim Doak]

Last evening I watched Frank's (i.e.427) latest YouTube video which included some pointers on installing trunk lid struts. So, I tackled that job this morning. After that was finished it was on to installing the windshield wiper motor.

To be honest, I've been vacillating whether or not to install windshield wipers, one reason being that I wasn't too keen on drilling a hole in my newly finished dash to install the control switch. But in the end, I decided to proceed with the installation. (I didn't have wipers on my first build and only wish I'd had them a handful of times over 46,000 miles - Rain-X works really well. However, I think they make the car look more "finished/complete".)

Anyway, here's a couple of photos showing the installation of the wiper motor and dash switch. (I tested the install and all seems to be working correctly.)

[Jacob McCrea]

Looks really clean Jim. Carry on!

[PMD24]

Question on drilling the finished dash... My fear is having the drill flutes grab the vinyl and destroy the dash. Can you provide some detail on what you did to ensure that didn't occur? Thanks.

Pat

[gbranham]

Looking good, Jim! GUMBALL and my first build were twins...

212062

[ggunter]

Use a stepped drill on the dash. I found that you can drill vinyl, and carpet with a step drill and it won't grab and rip like a regular drill bit. By the way where did you get your labels for your switches. I've been looking for something understated like yours.

[Jim Doak]

Pat: To add the wiper switch to my dash, first I covered the location with some painter's tape. Then I got a circle template with the approximate size of the switch diameter and traced the outline of the wiper switch onto the painter's tape. Then I took a deep breath and used an Exacto knife with a new blade to cut through the padded dash material, following the circle trace, cutting all the way to the aluminum. I then removed the cut material, center-punched the location and drilled a 1/8" pilot hole. Lastly, I used a step bit as mentioned above to cut the hole to the needed diameter.

All-in-all, it went really well and only took a few minutes.

ggunter: I purchased the labels from Classic Gent UK through eBay. And like the name indicates, they're from the UK. https://www.ebay.com/itm/394078506304

[Jim Doak]

Yesterday I thought I'd begin the carpet installation, starting with the trunk.

It wasn't too hard, although the dropped-trunk mod made it a little more challenging; however, I finished this afternoon and I'm pretty pleased with the end result.

[gbranham]

Looks great, Jim. I did this same project last weekend. Pretty satisfying.

212096

[Jim Doak]

The last couple of weeks have been dedicated to continuing work on my carpet install and beginning the fabrication of my undercar exhaust.

I'm nearly finished with the carpet: I just need to install one small piece that was missing from my kit and supposed to arrive via FedEx today (piece No. 15, the Left Footbox Outside Front Carpet), the two large floor pieces and the under door trim pieces.

I'll install the floor pieces after I locate where my seats will set and the under door pieces towards the end of the build.

(The carpet install has been one of my least favorite parts of the build, especially fitting the hard-to-reach footbox pieces.)

[Jim Doak]

Since I'm not using side pipes, I started fabricating my exhaust system last week.

I'm nearly finished with the driver's side; I just need to grind down the welds, install an O2 bung, and apply some hi-temp paint. I'll fit an extension to the outlet so that the exhaust exits directly in front of the rear tires once I get the body set back onto the chassis.

FYI, I'm using ovalized tubing under the footboxes and low-profile mufflers from Spintech to maximize ground clearance.

This exhaust will be nearly identical to the exhaust on my first build.

[Jim Doak]

Today I pretty much finished fabricating the undercar exhaust. I added an O2 sensor bung on each side in case I ever decide to switch from a carb to fuel injection. (I transitioned from a carb to the first-generation Holley Sniper fuel injection system on my earlier Cobra. I was not impressed; too much RF interference. But to Holley's credit, it sounds like they may have cured the issues with the second generation Sniper.)

Now I've got to add some hangers to the rear of the exhaust and chassis to support the ends, spray-on some matte black hi-temp exhaust paint, and I'll extend and relocate the exhaust tips as needed after I get the body back on the chassis.

[Mike.Bray]

I added an O2 sensor bung on each side in case I ever decide to switch from a carb to fuel injection. (I transitioned from a carb to the first-generation Holley Sniper fuel injection system on my earlier Cobra. I was not impressed; too much RF interference. But to Holley's credit, it sounds like they may have cured the issues with the second generation Sniper.)

As much as I like the Holley EFI stuff, particularly the Terminator ECUs, instead of the Sniper II I would spend a little more and get an Edelbrock ProFlo IV system. It's complete with just about everything you need including the distributor and is by far the easiest to configure and best performing. The ProFlo is sequential port injection whereas the Sniper is throttle body injection. There's really no comparison.

[Grubester]

Very interested in your undercar exhaust! I'm looking at pretty much the same configuration, except I'm going to try pushing it all the way out the rear. But that aside, is the oval-section pipe the same area as a 2.5 inch diameter pipe? I'm using a BP 347 and I think that's the diameter recommended. Are you using a the J-pipe coming off your header? I had figured something similar where various wedge-sections would be cut with multiple weld beads to reshape the curvature and angle to match up to where the oval pipe would begin its run underneath the car.
Could I ask for part numbers and source for the oval section pipe and that particular SpinTech muffler? You also mentioned adding the O2 sensor. Would that be the same that would be used for a air-fuel ratio monitoring pick up?

[Jim Doak]

Grubester, regarding your questions:

(1) Per SpinTech's Web site, the 2-1/2" ovalized tubing I used is equivalent to 2-1/2" round tube. (The tubing is 1-3/4" x 3")

(2) I did not use the FFR-supplied J-pipes.

Here's a pic from my invoice from SpinTech showing part numbers.

And yes; the bungs would be used to fit O2 sensor(s) used to monitor air/fuel ratio.

[Grubester]

Perfect-- thanks!!!
Now that I think about it, I believe you said you used a similar configuration on a previous car. What did that exhaust note sound like with that particular spintech muffler? Pretty satisfying...? Did it have acceptable "throatiness" that we come to expect from some of the Cobras? Probably not as loud as the side exhaust, which would be good, in my view.

[Jim Doak]

My earlier car originally had side pipes. (This was a Mark 1.) Even with a small block, I found it way too loud. (Perhaps FFR's current side pipes are quieter???) Additionally, I had two young daughters at the time and I didn't want then getting burned.

After I got them installed, I thought the SpinTech's sounded great and had a nice, throaty tone, not high-pitched like glass-packs. And they were definitely quieter than the side pipes were.

[Jim Doak]

I've completed the exhaust system, including building hangers for the rear supports. Now I've just got to add some hi-temp paint and mount it on the car.

Not related to my build, but yesterday I drove down to Provo and had lunch with a friend who works at Kirkham Motorsports. (He has a Kirkham with an all-aluminum 526 big block with stack injection.) Needless to say, I saw some very nice Cobras. A righthand drive Bronze Cobra with a 427 Cammer that's going to Australia, a Copper car that's staying in Utah, (the copper car is heavy: my buddy lifted the hood and it is dense.), some "regular" aluminum Cobras and a few Daytonas under construction. If I only had the means....

[Jeff Kleiner]

Nice work on the exhaust Jim!

Jeff

[Mike.Bray]

I've completed the exhaust system, including building hangers for the rear supports. Now I've just got to add some hi-temp paint and mount it on the car.

That looks really nice. The thing that would concern me is keeping the heat out of the floor of the car. When I was looking at Vipers I drove a few Gen 3's that had the exhaust under the car and out the rear. The heat coming up from the floorboards was noticeable, actually surprising considering it was an OEM car. I ended up getting a Gen 4 where they went back to the side exhaust because of the heat issue.

I hope you have better luck than Dodge did.

[Jim Doak]

That looks really nice. The thing that would concern me is keeping the heat out of the floor of the car. When I was looking at Vipers I drove a few Gen 3's that had the exhaust under the car and out the rear. The heat coming up from the floorboards was noticeable, actually surprising considering it was an OEM car. I ended up getting a Gen 4 where they went back to the side exhaust because of the heat issue.

I hope you have better luck than Dodge did.

I built a similar undercar system for my previous car. Heat was not an issue at all.

[OB6]

That undercar system looks great. It was my original plan, but our twin sons really pushed for the side pipes (I guess I can't blame them). Add that to losing the "no roll bars" battle with my wife.

[Blitzboy54]

I can't wait to see it on the car. Love an underside exhaust. If I were to restart my current build I would put it underneath. Looks great.

[Jim Doak]

Today I finished building the hangers and was finally able to test fit the exhaust in its final configuration.

It doesn't seem to hang too low and there's enough flexibility in the hangers (two rubber isolators on each hanger) to allow each side to move without any contact with the chassis.

[Jim Doak]

Now all I've got to do for the exhaust is to extend the outlets to the sides, but I can't do that until I get the body on the chassis to check aesthetics. Then I can truly finish this part of the project - and one of the most challenging and time consuming - after spraying-on some high-temperature paint.

[Jim Doak]

Earlier this week I completed most of the body cutouts. I would have chosen the option to have Factory Five do them, but with F5 it's an all-or-nothing choice and I didn't want side pipe cutouts.

Not too difficult of a job but lots of dust. And I'll make the side vent cutouts when I get the body back onto the chassis. (I didn't want to cut them out with the body sitting on the buck because I want to make sure the body is level with the ground when making the cuts.)

Today I applied two coats of Herculiner undercoating.

Next up: Finally get the body back onto the chassis so I can check fitment, fix the locations of the seats and get them installed and glue-down the two large floor carpet pieces.

Shooting to take it to body and paint in late June.

[Jim Doak]

It's been a couple of months, so time for a build update.

I've finished, painted and installed the exhaust. I've also finished the body cutouts, including the side vents. Also trimmed and sanded the fender openings and now I've got to flip the body over and even-up and trim about 1/4" off the lip that overhangs the dash. After that I can begin fitting the doors, hood and trunk.

I finished the carpet installation, allowing me to install the Breeze seat mounts followed by installation of the seats.

Over last few days I installed some rivnuts so that the fuse panel and the mounting plate for the hazard and headlight switches can be removed to provide access for the driver's side windshield post.

More to follow below...

[Jim Doak]

I received my kit July 26th of last year. So, 1 year and two days later my car made its maiden drive. (After 367 days the car was able move under its own power, backing off the scissor lift onto our driveway earlier today.)

It was only about 30 feet, but that counts, doesn't it???:)

[danmas]

Congrats. It’s a great feeling isn’t it?

[Jim Doak]

Since my last update a couple of weeks ago, I've set the ride height, performed a rough alignment, adjusted clearance between the throttle, brake and clutch pedals and have made a couple of real go-cart drives around the neighborhood.

Earlier today I go-carted, gave it full throttle for the first time and found out that the Breeze pedal was hanging-up on the carpet. (Not fun having the throttle pedal stick wide open!) So, I moved the pedal pad 1/2" outboard to provide the necessary clearance. (That's what's nice about the Breeze pedal; pretty easy to adjust right or left.)

I also found that I needed to move the brake and clutch pedal pads slightly outboard to provide adequate clearance between the three pedals. Fortunately - at least for me - I'm using an SN95 (1995) Mustang pedal box. That allowed me to place the pedals in my vise and "adjust" them with a little gentle persuasion with a hammer. All is good now.

We live in a pretty small rural community, so I've been able to put 3 miles on the car so far. All seems pretty good, and I'm loving the power steering and brakes.

The first pedal pic is prior to adjusting/moving; the second pic is after adjustment.

[TXeverydayDad]

Wow, that’s a scary thought having the accelerator stick on the carpet as you’re just getting to know the car. Glad it was a simple fix.

[Jim Doak]

Over the last couple of weeks I've fitted and installed the headlights as well as performed a little more adjusting to the brake and clutch pedals. I also bonded some studs to the body to facilitate installation of the side vents. The other small accomplishment was to install a remote brake fluid reservoir for the master cylinder.

[Jim Doak]

The last few months have been spent getting the car ready for paint. At the front, I mounted the body onto the chassis using 5/8" rubber blocks on top of the 3/4" frame tubes to help support the body instead of relying on FFR's turn signal mounting pad brackets. The rubber blocks as well as the Metco rubber grommets also aided in aligning the quick jack holes with the frame, with the gromments/quick jack bolts providing additional support for the body. At the rear I used Jeff Kleiner's coupling bolt mod so I don't need to drop the fuel tank to remove the body.

Got the windshield mounted as well as the roll bar and trim plate rings. I'm currently in the process of getting the doors, hood and trunk installed. I've hung the trunk and the passenger side door. Soon it'll be on to the driver's side door and hood. After that's accomplished I'll be ready to trailer the car to my painter.

While attaching the underside of the body to chassis, in lieu of using self-drilling screws, I installed four 1/4" nutserts on the passenger side. I'll do the same when I move on to hanging the driver's side door.

[Jim Doak]

Over the past few weeks I've been working on fitting the radiator aluminum as well as installing (temporarily) the oil cooler. I've also connected the windshield wiper hardware onto the motor, including the two gearboxes and stainless tubing. And earlier today I finished fabricating and installing an aluminum panel to cover the hole on the underside of the trunk lid.

Here's some pics of the trunk lid cover.

[Jim Doak]

Here's a few photos of the fitted radiator aluminum as well as the oil cooler.

[Jim Doak]

I've finished fitting the windshield wipers, less the wiper arms. I tested the system and the wiper gearboxes seem to be working correctly.

Next, it'll be fitting the hood and after that I'll be about ready to take it for bodywork and paint. However, I am seriously considering fitting the four splash guards before I make that trip.

[Jim Doak]

The last couple of weeks have been dedicated to fitting the hood. Would have finished sooner but I was in California for 10 days over Christmas. (Wife's family.)

Anyway, over the last few days I was able to finish installing the hood. On my first attempt, I followed the manual's hood hinge installation instructions, including use of the wave washers. Well, that was a mistake. WAY too much slop provided by the wave washers, preventing the hood from consistently closing in the same location. So, I searched the forum and found a post from Jeff Kleiner where he said to pitch the wave washers and use a combination of thick and thin flat washers. That's the ticket, now the hood closes properly. And today I finished the installation of the hood latches by installing the latch brackets. (I didn't follow the manual's instructions for these either; instead, I installed the brackets using some #10 button heads.)

[Jim Doak]

Since I was so close to having the hood installation completed, on Tuesday, December 30th I decided to begin the registration process. So, I contacted the Heber City police department for a VIN inspection who directed me to the Wasatch County sheriff's office. (The town we live in (Midway) is very small with no police force, so I needed to go through the county.) Anyway, an officer came by the house within 30 minutes or so and performed the VIN inspection. Basically, comparing the VIN Factory Five etched onto the frame against the VIN I entered on Utah's VIN inspection form. The VIN inspection took all of 5 minutes.

So, yesterday morning I headed to the county DMV office to complete the registration process, with all the necessary paperwork including the officer-signed VIN inspection form. The two ladies at the DMV were unfamiliar with the process for registering a replica vehicle; however, they got some guidance from State staff and were able to complete the registration in about 40 minutes. So, now I'm legal.

When I returned home from the DMV I began the search for an insurance policy. I ended up calling Grundy. The lady I spoke with emailed me an application, which I completed and sent back to her, along with several pictures of the car. I should hear back from Grundy within a day or so.

For anyone in Utah who needs to register their Cobra, Eddie C went through this process recently and has a post where he identifies and includes links to the necessary forms. Very, very helpful.

The only bummer in the whole process was that I wasn't able to use my old GUMBALL license plates from my first build. Somebody poached my plates while they were inactive. (I sold the car in September 2019.)

[Jim Doak]

After I finished the hood latch installation earlier today, I decided it'd be a good time to disassemble my body buck and free-up some garage space. After that was done, I decided to take a few pictures showing the current state of the nearly completed build. The only things I want to do before I take it to the painter is to fit the four splash guards.

Since I don't have side pipes, I've decided to skip a hood scoop, too.

[AC Bill]

Congrats, sounds like things are progressing magnificently for you.

Does the state not require a vehicle safety inspection in addition to the VIN inspection?

[Jim Doak]

No safety inspections in Utah. The state did away with them several years ago. (Not necessarily a good thing.)

[Mike.Bray]

Congratulations on registration! I know that is such a great feeling.

If Grundy doesn't work out for you call Robyn at Midwest Classic Insurance (sponsor on this site). He knows our cars well and will take very good care of you. I've got three cars insured through him now and the rates are insane in a good way.

[Jim Doak]

I've finished fitting the four splash guards; now the only parts I have yet to pre-fit or install from the kit are the two under door aluminum pieces.

Here's few pics showing the fitment of the splash guards. Not too difficult, though I did need to cut a window in the front driver's side splash guard to provide clearance for the master cylinder. While I was at it, I fabbed a couple of close-out panels to fill the gaps between the rear wheel wells and the cockpit. Final installation will occur after the car gets painted.

Speaking of paint, I'm scheduled to take it in for bodywork and paint in early/mid-February.

[Jim Doak]

Here's a few gelcoat pics before it goes in for bodywork and paint, which happens in about 3 weeks. Tomorrow it goes in for a 4-wheel alignment. After that's completed, I'll begin pulling parts like the roll bar, splash shields, headlights, taillights, turn signals and gas cap before it heads to the painter.

[Jim Doak]

I had an appointment at the semi-local Les Schwab shop to get a four-wheel alignment on January 20th. I drive over for my appointment and they proceed to tell me that they can't align my car since it's not in their system. (It'd been nice if they'd told me that a week earlier when I made my appointment and specified that I had a Cobra kit car.) I call the nearby Big O shop and they're willing to give it a try; however, my car is too low to fit on their alignment rack. Oh well....

Anyway, I've been working on final details before it goes in for bodywork and paint on February 16th.

Like a bunch of other forum builders, I fabricated a mount for a honeycomb radiator protector. It's easily removeable for periodic cleaning. Some satin black paint and it's barely noticeable.

[Jim Doak]

Since I have Mustang-based power brakes, my master cylinder protrudes into the front splash guard which necessitated cutting a window for clearance. So, I remembered a post from Jeff Kleiner many years ago suggesting the use of a dog dish as a cover. After a visit to Petco, I've now incorporated a feline feeding dish into my build.

[Jim Doak]

Since I'm going for a vintage Cobra look, I'm using Raydot side mirrors which required the fabrication of some custom mounts made from 1/8" aluminum. For this build I've also decided to try a windshield-mounted rearview mirror.

[Jim Doak]

If you've followed some of my posts, you'll note that I'm using an SN95 (1995) Mustang pedal box which utilizes a cable-actuated clutch. I had the same setup on my first build with over 46,000 trouble-free miles.

I'm using a Ford performance adjustable clutch cable, and although they work well, they require adjustment at the clutch fork. Not the easiest thing in the world. So, for this build I purchased and installed a Steeda firewall clutch adjuster. It should make any necessary clutch cable adjustments a piece of cake.

The only other project that I may attempt prior to paint, is to see if I prefer the kit-supplied throttle pedal to the Breeze pedal that I'm currently using.

The Breeze pedal works fine; however, I think the kit pedal may suit me better.

[Blitzboy54]

I've finished fitting the four splash guards; now the only parts I have yet to pre-fit or install from the kit are the two under door aluminum pieces.

Here's few pics showing the fitment of the splash guards. Not too difficult, though I did need to cut a window in the front driver's side splash guard to provide clearance for the master cylinder. While I was at it, I fabbed a couple of close-out panels to fill the gaps between the rear wheel wells and the cockpit. Final installation will occur after the car gets painted.

Speaking of paint, I'm scheduled to take it in for bodywork and paint in early/mid-February.

Do you know what the color scheme will be? She looks great, very clean build. Congrats on getting to this point so quickly

[Jim Doak]

Do you know what the color scheme will be? She looks great, very clean build. Congrats on getting to this point so quickly

The plan is a vintage Ford light blue paint color. No stripes.

[Jim Doak]

I attempted to utilize the kit-supplied throttle pedal but found that it really wasn't practical without a lot of contortion and cursing. So, I made a slight modification to the Breeze pedal.

I simply removed the supplied pad and fabricated a new one that's about twice as long and extends down towards the floor several inches.

I haven't tried driving with the new pad; however, testing it in the garage seems to indicate that the throttle will be much easier to modulate with the longer pad.

[Jim Doak]

I built my car using Mike Forte's throttle linkage. But after driving my car for a couple dozen miles, I've found that the linkage wasn't going to work with my setup. The problem wasn't the linkage, it's how I set it up. I had the lever arms pointing upwards on the cross shaft, so the actuation rod would pull the throttle open. However, I'm using a Mustang pedal box and to avoid interference, it caused some funky geometry with the linkage, putting too much stress on the Breeze pedal. The solution would be to rotate the lever arms towards the bottom and convert to a throttle push instead of pull. But that's not easily accomplished on a built car.

So, I pushed the easy button and removed the mechanical linkage and converted to a Lokar throttle cable. I had a Lokar cable on my first build and it worked fine; however, it seemed to sometimes cause a throttle hang. On this build I follow Mark Reynolds (Breeze) throttle pedal instructions recommendation and reversed the carb so the cable has one, long 180 degree bend instead of the two shorter 180's if the carb is mounted normally. It seems to be working great.

Here's a few pics showing the installation including the throttle pedal and the pedal stop I added.

[Jim Doak]

Because I'm using a Mustang pedal box and power brakes, I didn't use the Factory Five provided throttle cable opening in the footbox. It appeared that the vacuum booster I'm using would interfere with the cable. So, I drilled a 5/16" hole 1.25" to the right of the FFR opening, providing a non-obstructed route for the throttle cable.

Here's a couple more pics showing the location of the cable opening in the footbox as well as a bracket I fabbed to help stabilize the cable routing.

This completes my build. Now, it's time to begin removing the headlights, taillights, roll bar, side vents, etc. so I can trailer it down to Salt Lake City to my painter.

[Mike.Bray]

Nothing wrong with that cable. Glad to see you added a support to it, makes a lot of difference.