What makes coyotes "more drivable"?

[dalves]

I'm debating a build and one of the biggest decisions (of course) is what engine to go with. I've seen many threads talking about how a Coyote is "more drivable" than a SBF. What exactly makes it more drivable? Does EFI mitigate most of the "undrivability" of a SBF?

[rthomas98]

It is really the drive by wire that allows for this. You don't get the instant on that you get with a standard cable throttle. The PCM will essentially interprut what you do better and smooth the accleration curves a little better. In short coyote drive by wire you slip on the pedal a little the PCM will give some. Standard cable throttle you slip and depending on your HP and torque the car might come out from under you quick. Not to say you can't calibrate the coyote to do the same. But this would be the biggest difference.

[CraigS]

The only difference I saw was cold starts. I had a mild 408 carb engine in my FFR at the same time my wife drove a 15 MustangGT w/ a Coyote. After the first 3 min my 408 was every bit as pleasant as hers. I had actually chosen a mild build. I told Comp cams that I wanted to be able to drive the 408 at 1300 in 5th. They picked a cam for me. If I hadn't already spent so much on carbs by the time aftermarket efi became good, I would have gone efi. That would have gotten rid of the cold start shortcoming. BTW, the shortcoming wasn't in how it ran when cold, it was just that I had to mess w/ a choke.

[Jeff Kleiner]

It's not inherently the Coyote (or the drive by wire). There are plenty of well and properly tuned SBF powered cars that are every bit as "drivable". I get lots of cars through the shop here for body & paint and can say that a Windsor with EFI or a properly set up carb start and run just as well as the Coyotes. Problem is that a large percentage of them are missing the element that I put in bold type above. Many of them come in with carbs that are waaaay out or aftermarket EFI systems that were simply bolted on without having been set up or an engine was built with a selection of components that simply aren't compatible with each other. Even the Coyotes need to be tuned to optimize that "drivability"...just ask anyone with a Gen3.

Jeff

[edwardb]

Having had a couple carb'd SBF builds and a couple Coyote builds, and one who has cited the enhanced drivability of the Coyote, here's my response. Although with the huge caveat that it depends. As already stated, both need to be properly tuned. Also especially depends on the SBF build, e.g. what cam is used, etc. Like a modern DD, the Coyote starts immediately and can be driven right away. Also with little/no odor as some complain about with other engines. Not something we generally pay a lot of attention to, but the Coyote also gets decent gas mileage. Depends on how hard you drive it, of course, but I routinely get 15-20 MPG. More than what my SBF's got.

But for me I would put the better Coyote drivability (my experience) mainly into how modern engines are designed to have the torque curve come up at a relatively low RPM. Makes it super smooth and easy to launch. You can shift at whatever RPM you like (low or high) and the engine doesn't care. You can also cruise at whatever RPM you want and again it doesn't care. 1,500 RPM in 6th in my Coupe (around 50 - 55 MPH) is smooth and relatively quiet. More highly strung engines (again depending on how they're set up) often won't be happy doing that. I'm not suggesting that's the only way to drive these cars. Wind the Coyote up for maximum fun and it's more than willing to do that too. But I personally really appreciate the versality and complete ease of use.

[Avalanche325]

I agree with Jeff and edwardb. Not too much difference in drivability if you do your tuning.

I have a fairly snotty 347 (500+hp). I got my carb tuned in where my traces looked good. It was trailer hitching (jerking) at 35mph around town cruising. It would also load up and backfire when picking up the throttle at low RPM. It was hard to start in the cold and VERY temperamental until it warmed up.

What fixed it? I had too much sweep in my distributor advance. It was spot on at max advance, but it retarded the timing too much at low RPM. I put limiters in and it instantly cured all of those issues.

If you go EFI, you still need to do the tuning. Also spend some time reading here on which systems work well and which ones have issues.

[cv2065]

My last build I had a carb’d 427 from Blueprint. Fantastic engine and support was superb. Was able to get the QF carb tuned to where it started on the first blip of the key. Now on my second build I had more choices, including the Coyote. I had to think about what I really liked about the first car the most and if I felt like I was missing anything. Went down the road of a Predator, stacked FI 427 or 427 carb, and I came back to the carb. Why, because of the engine lope. It’s my favorite part about driving the Cobra. The shake at the light, mild smell of fuel and sound that catches the attention of everyone no matter where you are. To me, that is the quintessential Cobra. I just couldn’t get that with a computer controlled engine and wasn’t too familiar with ghost tunes. .

There are compromises by not getting a more modern drivetrain, but you have to decide what’s most important to you and what experience you are looking for. I did plumb the car with the right pump, regulator and return line just in case I wanted FI down the road. I did the same on the last, but never felt the need. It’s a good selling feature though. :)

[cdurbin328]

I agree with all the comments above. I chose to go Gen 2 Coyote in my build only because I really wanted to "coyote" something.. lol
I will say that it does give the car that "wow" factor at the car shows. The first thing people say when they walk up and look under the hood is "oh dang, it's got a Coyote in it"

202374