Dmac800 father/son build

[Dmac800]

My 17 year old son and I will be building the Type '65. We are excited to do this project together and can't wait for it to get here.

I ordered the kit on 7/8/24 with a completion date of 10/05/24. Then we have to wait for Stewart transport to get it to Puyallup, WA. so maybe we will have it by the end of October or early November.

The build:
Complete Kit
Gen3 Coyote
T56 Trans
IRS
Heat and AC
power steering
Front and rear sway bars
Carpet
18" Halibrands

removed seats, side pipes, and exhaust

Thinking of adding door sills and indoor cover

Don

[460.465USMC]

Congrats, Don! You are in for a lot of fun. So glad you were able to start the project while your son is still home. Thanks for starting a build thread. Looking forward to it. Subscribed.

[Jphoenix]

Hey Don, ours will be here in about 3 weeks, so you’re welcome to come up the hill and check it out!

[Dmac800]

I have received my Gen3 Coyote and the control pack. In the control pack there are two sensors in a bag that look like they are the EGT sensors. They look used. Is this normal? I hope the picture posts.


203155

[Dmac800]

Thanks JohnK for the response on the O2 sensors.

[Dmac800]

I am going to put Por15 on the Diff, and was wondering how everyone applies it. Do you use the spray cans, paint brush, or HVLP paint gun?

[gbranham]

I've always used a paint brush. The only thing that gets it off of skin is time, so glove up well!!

Greg

[460.465USMC]

Hi Don. I also have only used a brush. I liked the application best with a foam brush. I think you'll really like the results.

[Dmac800]

My kit should be close to being finished by FFR and I was wondering if they automatically will send me pictures or if I have to ask for them? My kit was to be completed on 10/5/24 but Stewart Transport asked to have it moved up so that they can put it on the same truck that they already have going to Washington tomorrow.

[460.465USMC]

I've had to call them on both builds to get a "nursery" picture. They've always been happy to accommodate me, and I have no doubt they will do the same for you, if you reach out.

[Dmac800]

I will call tomorrow morning and see if it is not to late. Hopefully they were able to accommodate Stewart Transport and got my coupe done early. Stewart has my ETA of 10/13/24.

[460.465USMC]

Wahoo! Getting close now. Christmas in October!

[Dmac800]

I just got off the phone with FFR and they said that my kit will be loaded on the truck today!!!!!!! Can't wait to start building with my son.

[PNWTim]

You're about 2 1/2 months ahead of me. Good luck on your build kick off!

[JimStone]

I asked for but never got the "nursery" picture.

So this was my first glimpse of the car, which made it even more exciting
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199781&d=1716596873

[Dmac800]

I am debating on upgrading my shocks to QA1 DD401's because I hope to do track days and the Silver State Classic some day. Where is a good place to get them from?

[Dmac800]

I am working on our Coyote and was wondering if anyone knows what the torque spec is for the oil filter nipple? I removed the oil cooler and want to get the filter put back on the engine. I don't want to over tighten it and cause any damage. I also dropped the oil filter and it has a small dent in the side. Should I replace it?

[Dmac800]

Our coupe was delivered yesterday afternoon!!!! Now we get to start the inventory process.

[Jphoenix]

I am debating on upgrading my shocks to QA1 DD401's because I hope to do track days and the Silver State Classic some day. Where is a good place to get them from?

I bought mine from Summit.

[Dmac800]

I bought mine from Summit.

When you get them from Summit, do they come with the springs? What spring rate?

[Dmac800]

205327205328 Here are a couple of pictures of the Coupe set up in my garage.

[Jphoenix]

When you get them from Summit, do they come with the springs? What spring rate?

No springs, just the shocks. For now I'm using the springs that came from FFR - 750/500 I think? I'll replace them with 900/700 springs ( or thereabouts) for racing.


The DD401 shocks come with different ID bushings, you can remove the bushings from the FFR shocks and use them in the QA1 shocks by removing the circlip, saves having to fabricate new bushings for the QA1's.

[Dmac800]

Thanks

[slarson]

I am debating on upgrading my shocks to QA1 DD401's because I hope to do track days and the Silver State Classic some day. Where is a good place to get them from?

I got mine from Gordon Levy. He spent at least 30 minutes on the phone asking what my plans were for the car so he could determine the proper spring rates for my application.

Congrats on the delivery, now the fun really begins. Enjoy the build with your son, these times are precious! I bought my kit with the same intention but my son moved to Colorado before mine was delivered. He's coming home this weekend for a few weeks and the plan is to achieve the engine first start.

[PNWTim]

Congratulations on having it in house! I am still two months away so living vicariously through the various build threads in the forum, including yours. Enjoy!

[Dmac800]

I want to put a Tire pressure system in my 18" Halibrands. I purchased the Schrader 33700 Clamp-in Programmable EZ-Sensor's but they won't work. Has anyone found a sensor that will work?

[460.465USMC]

Hi Don. Hope you're having a good time with your son on the build so far.

Not long ago another forum builder, Rsnake, posted a video about his TPMS Schrader system: https://youtu.be/_sSwKCSQiiQ?si=XDJ8FrnEO4edmBnp. Hope this helps.

[Dmac800]

Hi Don. Hope you're having a good time with your son on the build so far.

Not long ago another forum builder, Rsnake, posted a video about his TPMS Schrader system: https://youtu.be/_sSwKCSQiiQ?si=XDJ8FrnEO4edmBnp. Hope this helps.

Hi Chris. We have been busy with getting the inventory done and finally finished it Saturday night.

I have watched all of Rsnake's videos and purchased those Schrader sensors and unfortunately, they don't work with the Halibrands.

[Dmac800]

When we were going through all of the inventory, in Box 1 there is a box of bolts. Is there a list of what should be in this box? I can't find one.

If the manual calls for a grade 8 bolt, should the locknut be a grade 8 as well?

Thanks,
Don

[AndrewIdaho]

I believe that is the fastener pack. Content details are in Appendix G at the end of the manual. Make sure you have the most current manual as when I did inventory, I found some missing bolts that were removed in the latest release of the manual. I am using rev 5K that tech support sent me when I asked questions about the missing bolts.

Best Regards, Andrew

[Jphoenix]

When we were going through all of the inventory, in Box 1 there is a box of bolts. Is there a list of what should be in this box? I can't find one.

If the manual calls for a grade 8 bolt, should the locknut be a grade 8 as well?

Thanks,
Don

My Coupe manual is rev. 4W, not sure if there is a later revision. The manual states in various parts to "use the bolt and nut XXX, from the fastener pack" - so usually those bolts and nuts are in that bag of bolts in Box 1. I laid out all the fasteners by size and type and put them in plastic hardware boxes so I could easily find the type and size bolt required. Normally, a grade 8 bolt will require a grade 8 nut, that's what I've always done in the past.

[PNWTim]

My Coupe manual is rev. 4W, not sure if there is a later revision. The manual states in various parts to "use the bolt and nut XXX, from the fastener pack" - so usually those bolts and nuts are in that bag of bolts in Box 1. I laid out all the fasteners by size and type and put them in plastic hardware boxes so I could easily find the type and size bolt required. Normally, a grade 8 bolt will require a grade 8 nut, that's what I've always done in the past.

That's interesting. I ordered my coupe about a month ago and received the digital manual with other material and mine is 4Q so that doesn't make a lot of sense. I don't receive my kit for another 3 or 4 weeks so it will be interesting to see which version I receive with it. I think I will reach out to them and see what the latest version actually is.

[AndrewIdaho]

I believe that is the fastener pack. Content details are in Appendix G at the end of the manual. Make sure you have the most current manual as when I did inventory, I found some missing bolts that were removed in the latest release of the manual. I am using rev 5K that tech support sent me when I asked questions about the missing bolts.

Best Regards, Andrew

Oops my bad for not reading the thread closely enough early in the morning. The info I gave was for a roadster and not a coupe. Apologies for any confusion - Andrew

[Jphoenix]

From my digital manual: REVISION 4W, AUGUST 2023

I'm going to look at the hardcopy I received, see if it's a later or earlier rev.

[Dmac800]

Thanks everyone. My printed manual is 4W but the digital manual that I downloaded was an earlier version. The reason that I was asking is because the first part that I put on was the power steering rack and I found the 1/2" Grade 8 bolts in the fastener pack, but there are no Grade 8 lock nuts. Where the bolts and nuts for the steering rack in the box with the rack, or in the fastener pack?

One trick that I figured out is that when you put in the new bushings, just do one side and then put in the sleeves. This makes it easier to line up the bushing on the other side.

[Dmac800]

I need a recommendation for what type of grease to use in my build for the IFS and IRS. I would like to grease them before I put them on the car.

[Dmac800]

I purchased the QA1 DD401's and noticed that they are about 1 inch shorter than the Koni's that came with the kit. Is this okay or should they be the same length?

[Jphoenix]

Same here, I believe they are OK because when the chassis is settled at normal ride height, the shocks are close to the middle of their working range. I would be more concerned if they ended up at the extreme either end of the range - more compressed than normal or excessively extended at normal ride height.

[Jphoenix]

I need a recommendation for what type of grease to use in my build for the IFS and IRS. I would like to grease them before I put them on the car.

I use Redline grease, but only because I have a lot of it on hand and I use it on every other vehicle I own, including a ton of it on my Snow cat and even more on my Wanderlodge that has an automatic chassis greaser: https://www.graco.com/us/en/vehicle-service/solutions/articles/simplify-lubrication-with-automatic-grease-systems.html

[Jphoenix]

Thanks everyone. My printed manual is 4W but the digital manual that I downloaded was an earlier version. The reason that I was asking is because the first part that I put on was the power steering rack and I found the 1/2" Grade 8 bolts in the fastener pack, but there are no Grade 8 lock nuts. Where the bolts and nuts for the steering rack in the box with the rack, or in the fastener pack?

One trick that I figured out is that when you put in the new bushings, just do one side and then put in the sleeves. This makes it easier to line up the bushing on the other side.

I used the nuts that came with the rack, not sure if they are grade 8 or not, but I can't tell you how much I've spent at Mclendon's on grade 8 nuts and bolts - I prefer using them over some of the bolts and nuts that come with the kit. I especially don't like all the stainless Allen drive screws, I just replace them with bolts unless they absolutely have to be round head because of clearance issues, etc. Don't like stainless very much, but they are pretty.

[PNWTim]

I purchased the QA1 DD401's and noticed that they are about 1 inch shorter than the Koni's that came with the kit. Is this okay or should they be the same length?

Hi - could you please tell me what length of 401's you ordered?

[Dmac800]

After taking some time off for the holidays and a family trip, we are finally back to building.

We are still working on the front suspension and I have a couple of questions. I have the Howe upper ball joints and the factory lower ball joints. I purchased Energy Suspension boot number 5.13102G for the ball joints. Is this the correct number? Should I replace the lower ball joint boots as well? Do I need any clamps to hold the boots on? On the upper ball joints, they wont stay on unless it is attached to the spindle. Do the boots go over the ball joint or inside it?
209798209799

For the tie-rod's, I have the Moog ends. For those, I purchased the Energy Suspension boot number 9.13101G. Is this correct?
209800

I want to verify that I have them correct before I finish putting it together this weekend.

Thanks,
Don

[Dmac800]

Another question, how do I rotate pictures? On my computer they are correct, but when I attach them, they are rotated 90 degrees.

[Dmac800]

I am also planning to replace the CV boots because I plan to run in the Silver State Classic someday. I am looking at boots that fit a Mustang. The part numbers that I found are . Does anyone know if these will work or has the correct numbers?

I deleted the CV boot numbers because they are NOT the correct ones.

[Jphoenix]

The boots you bought are correct and yes, they won't stay on until you put it all together and they look better with suspension at ride height. Not sure how to rotate the photos, sorry.

Rsnake replaced his CV boots, but not sure which ones he went with in the end - and how they performed at the last SSC. Hopefully he responds here.

I do all my license renewals through your office in Puyallup, so I think it's almost time to register the Cobra - any tips on getting ready for that adventure?

[460.465USMC]

Hello Jim. Not to highjack Don's thread, but here are a couple threads on registering in WA you might find interesting. I'll defer to Don as the expert, but I'm happy to share the saga I went through with my MK4 registration if you're interested. Just reach out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?42182-Quick-jacks-in-Washington&p=483788&viewfull=1#post483788

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?49510-Type-65-Coupe-registration-experience-in-Washington-State&p=560246&viewfull=1#post560246

[Dmac800]

Hi Jim,
I have been trying to get clarification on the emissions exemption from DOL. Kit vehicles are exempt and we need to have the exemption signed, but the form doesn't have Kit vehicles on it. I will reach back out to my contact later in February after they update out system over President's Day weekend. We have to be closed the 14th through the 17th.

[Jphoenix]

Hi Jim,
I have been trying to get clarification on the emissions exemption from DOL. Kit vehicles are exempt and we need to have the exemption signed, but the form doesn't have Kit vehicles on it. I will reach back out to my contact later in February after they update out system over President's Day weekend. We have to be closed the 14th through the 17th.

Thanks, no rush - still assembling the Coupe while the Cobra is in the trailer waiting to go to the paint shop. The Cobra runs and drives, but I have the Snowcat ready for the big snow this weekend :cool: 209860

[Dmac800]

Nice looking snowcat. Where do you take it?

[Jphoenix]

Nice looking snowcat. Where do you take it?

Up 410, government meadow, Mt Baldi, etc. There's a bunch of these here in the Buckley/Enumclaw area. Also over to Montana where my sister has her paint shop, I just had it over there getting help with building and installing new tracks. https://www.forumsforums.com/threads/st4-restoration-of-frankie-the-frankentrac.96674/page-10#post-20831127

[Dmac800]

This weekend I was trying to get the front suspension done and I couldn't get the upper rear control are to the correct measurement. I couldn't tighten the turnbuckle enough. I had to remove it and shorten both sides. I know that I have seen others that have had to do this as well. Here is a picture of what I did.

210064

I used my new mini-lathe to shorten them.

[Dmac800]

I removed the CV boot numbers from my post because they are not the correct ones.

[Infinitybox]

Sounds like great fun! Enjoy

[Dmac800]

Hi everyone,
I received my new CV boots and I am trying to figure out how to remove the outer joint off of the axle. Does anyone know how?
Thanks,
Don

[Dmac800]

I have slowly been working on the rear suspension and I think that I might have a problem. One of the rear hubs has a wobble in it. I found this out when I went to install the brakes on that side. I have attached a link to the video.
Is replacing the hub the only way to fix this?



https://youtu.be/JmPtehx475E?si=yvOQuwe8d2MKGucy

[460.465USMC]

Hi Don. I haven't experienced movement like that on either of my builds. I suggest calling F5 for replacement. They'll make it right.

[Dmac800]

Here is some additional information in regards to my issue. The axle nut has not been torqued on either side. One side does not wobble and the other side does.

I reached out to the vendor that I purchased the center section, knuckle and hubs from, and they said that the wobble will go away once it is torqued to spec.

Does this sound right?

[Dmac800]

I just finished tightening the axle nuts to the torque specifications that are in the manual. It did NOT fix the wobble. I will have to reach out to the vendor again to for the next step and to verify the torque specs.

[Dmac800]

Ok. Here is my f-up. When I tightened up the cv nut on the side that had the wobble, it felt weird. I should have stopped as soon as it started, but I wanted to get the rear suspension done and powered on. Once it was tightened, it still had the wobble, so tonight I was taking it off. It was difficult to remove the cv nut, so I was using a breaker bar with a pipe. (Another I should have stopped moment).
I now have the nut part way off, but the threads are so fouled up that it won't turn anymore. I snapped off two 1/2 inch drives trying to get it off.

Does anyone have a recommendation on how or what tool might help me to get it cut off. I hope that I don't have to replace the cv axle and the hub, but I somewhat expect to.
Here is a picture of the cv nut.

215481215482

[gbranham]

Looks like a thread mismatch between the axle and the nut. Maybe you can heat it to get it off, then just replace the axle.

[Dmac800]

I used some heat and a 3/4 inch braker bar to get the nut off of the axle, sort of. It came off but also took the threaded end of the axle with it. The threads of the axle look fine but the nut is a mess. I think that the nut caused my issues. I will be reaching out to FFR in the morning to see about a new axle.

Here is a picture of the cv nut.
215548215549

[Lugnut Mark]

Hows your coupe coming along .... any update pics ?

[Dmac800]

Hi all,

After finishing up other projects around the house, I have finally started to work on the coupe again. I received the new cv axle and got it rebuilt with the upgraded boots and grease. It has been installed and the IRS finished up.

I am now going to start working on drilling the aluminum but have a question. Should I powder coat the parts before or after I drill all of the pop rivet holes? I am thinking of a light to medium grey color.

What do you think?

Don

[Papa]

Hi all,

After finishing up other projects around the house, I have finally started to work on the coupe again. I received the new cv axle and got it rebuilt with the upgraded boots and grease. It has been installed and the IRS finished up.

I am now going to start working on drilling the aluminum but have a question. Should I powder coat the parts before or after I drill all of the pop rivet holes? I am thinking of a light to medium grey color.

What do you think?

Don

Most fit and drill everything before powder coating. There is less risk of damaging the finish that way.

[460.465USMC]

Hey Don! Great to see you back at it. I know how those pesky house projects get in the way. :p Was just thinking of texting you yesterday to see how things were going.

Times two on panel fitment first, then powder coat. Not only less risk of damage like Papa points out, but handling and fitment become easier when you're not worried about nicking/scratching the PC. Some panels will require minor trimming or even adjusting the bend for best fitment. I've read some who've done it the other way, but I wouldn't recommend it.

[Dmac800]

Thanks for the replies. I was leaning towards drilling everything and then powder coating, but wanted to get recommendations first.

[flight_83]

Hi all,

After finishing up other projects around the house, I have finally started to work on the coupe again. I received the new cv axle and got it rebuilt with the upgraded boots and grease. It has been installed and the IRS finished up.

I am now going to start working on drilling the aluminum but have a question. Should I powder coat the parts before or after I drill all of the pop rivet holes? I am thinking of a light to medium grey color.

What do you think?

Don

I drilled all mine after powder coat without any issues. most of them are unseen and the high visibility ones I just laid a piece of tape down before drilling.

[JimStone]

I drilled all mine after powder coat without any issues. most of them are unseen and the high visibility ones I just laid a piece of tape down before drilling.

I'm curious how they powder coated them without holes to put the hangers through to ground and hold the part while coating

[Dmac800]

Last night I was working on installing the rear swaybar and noticed that something didn't look right. In the following pictures, when I push the swaybar up until it touches the spot where it will connect with the lower control on the drivers side, there is about an inch gap on the passenger side. I measured the height of each side where it is supposed to connect and they are the same. I measured the height of the brackets the the main bar attaches to and there is about a half inch difference. Is this normal or do I have something wrong?226077226078

[Jphoenix]

If the suspension is in droop (sitting on the stands or lift) then wait until you get it on the ground and ride height set all around, then check the sway bar - in any case, adjust the sway bar links after it's all done and settled with full weight on the car.

[rhk118]

Last night I was working on installing the rear swaybar and noticed that something didn't look right. In the following pictures, when I push the swaybar up until it touches the spot where it will connect with the lower control on the drivers side, there is about an inch gap on the passenger side. I measured the height of each side where it is supposed to connect and they are the same. I measured the height of the brackets the the main bar attaches to and there is about a half inch difference. Is this normal or do I have something wrong?226077226078

I'd go with what Jphoenix said above, he's got his car well thought out and seemingly pretty sorted out (love his brake bias gauges). No way of knowing exactly what that geometry will look like until the car is fully loaded on the ground and your shock heights/rake are set. My swaybar was really close to the control arms to the point that one concern I have on my shakedown list that there is no chance the rear swaybar will contact the arms when compressed. Also concerned about "snap oversteer" if too stiff in back. I bought some longer endlinks and installed them for now just so I could reach the "softest" setting on the bar out back easily and to space it away from the lower arms a bit. Geometry looks weird to me but will see what happens. But I've also watched Dave Tabor successfully race his car in absolutely any kind of event you can imagine and he runs heavier springs out back and no bar...so that is another option. I will be trying mine with the bar out back to start with low threshold to follow what Dave did.

Pics here on mine, this is unloaded on jacks.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?43135-Hank-s-Type-65-Build-Thread&p=515064&viewfull=1#post515064