Keyed Start with Push Button

[cv2065]

Trying to get a bead on how to wire this up. I'll be using a Ron Francis Synergy keyed ignition switch and a 5A push start button, so I know I'll need a relay. Not sure if my diagram is correct. Can anyone assist?

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/Screenshot_2024-07-21_005829.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/Screenshot_2024-07-21_005829.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[Blitzboy54]

Looks correct to me

[CraigS]

Me too.

[cv2065]

Thanks guys!

[cv2065]

One follow up question on this. When I connect Terminal 30 on the relay, I have 'starter wire' in this diagram but there isn't one in the harness except what goes to the key'd switch, and that is already accounted for. As with the other relays, should terminal 30 hook up to a constant 12V source like a distribution block with fuse?

[Kbl7td]

I can’t comment on the RF harness, but yes, constant 12v to trigger the starter solenoid is usually what happens.

[cv2065]

I can’t comment on the RF harness, but yes, constant 12v to trigger the starter solenoid is usually what happens.

Thanks!

[Dave M]

Just wondering why not just use a higher amp rated start switch and can the relay? I personally like to keep things as simple as possible, less issues down the road.

[cv2065]

Just wondering why not just use a higher amp rated start switch and can the relay? I personally like to keep things as simple as possible, less issues down the road.

I'd love to, but I'm using the billet buttons start switch for a custom look. Those switches are only rated at 5A.

[Blitzboy54]

I'd love to, but I'm using the billet buttons start switch for a custom look. Those switches are only rated at 5A.

I am nearly certain I am going to use this unit. I am going to get rid of the key entirely. The nice thing about the marine setup is, it is most like our cars. We don't have windows or locks. Key fob in your pocket and go.


https://www.digitalguarddawg.com/keyless-ignition/marine/pbs-m/

[rich grsc]

You do realize that the starter solenoid pulls about 1.5 amps, as the new mini starters doesn't engage the pinion

[Mike.Bray]

I am nearly certain I am going to use this unit. I am going to get rid of the key entirely. The nice thing about the marine setup is, it is most like our cars. We don't have windows or locks. Key fob in your pocket and go.


https://www.digitalguarddawg.com/keyless-ignition/marine/pbs-m/

I have the PBS-I and have mixed thoughts on it. It works fine and the FOB is cool, the annoying part for me is you have to have the interlock made (tranny in neutral & brake pedal pressed for me) to kill the engine. I understand the start interlock, I don't understand why for turning it off.

Looks like the marine version doesn't have this requirement?

[Blitzboy54]

I have the PBS-I and have mixed thoughts on it. It works fine and the FOB is cool, the annoying part for me is you have to have the interlock made (tranny in neutral & brake pedal pressed for me) to kill the engine. I understand the start interlock, I don't understand why for turning it off.

Looks like the marine version doesn't have this requirement?

Interesting. I get the clutch, the coyote won't start without the neutral safety switch engaged. I bypassed this on my last build but will not on this one. I don't understand the brake function. There would be no connection to the brake or the neutral safety switch on a boat. So my engine will take care of the clutch. The only electronic connection to the car with the brakes is the light switch. I know on a modern car the brake needs to be depressed to start the engine but I have nothing installed that would require it.

Edit*** I pulled the instructions and your version ties into the brake switch. Even if I bought the automotive version I would bypass that signal or tie it to the clutch.

I like the marine version because it's simple. I will have a hard switch for accessories which I prefer.

[Mike.Bray]

Interesting. I get the clutch, the coyote won't start without the neutral safety switch engaged. I bypassed this on my last build but will not on this one. I don't understand the brake function. There would be no connection to the brake or the neutral safety switch on a boat. So my engine will take care of the clutch. The only electronic connection to the car with the brakes is the light switch. I know on a modern car the brake needs to be depressed to start the engine but I have nothing installed that would require it.

Edit*** I pulled the instructions and your version ties into the brake switch. Even if I bought the automotive version I would bypass that signal or tie it to the clutch.

I like the marine version because it's simple. I will have a hard switch for accessories which I prefer.

On mine if you activate it with the FOB there are some options.

No interlock - press once for ACC #2

No interlock - press twice for ACC #1 & Ignition circuits

With interlock - press for ignition and start.

I ran into a slight problem with going straight to start, the engine immediately start turning over but the ECU was still booting up so it would take a few cranks to fire. Just enough really to be annoying. What I do now is leave my foot off the brake and press the button twice to activate everything and then press the brake and start it. With this it fires right up.

Originally I wired my clutch and brake switch in series as the interlock. I've since changed it to the neutral safety switch in the TKX and the brake switch. Now I kind of wish it was only the neutral switch but I'm not changing it.

TBH, I don't think I would do another one, I would put a key switch under the dash and a pushbutton for the start like my old Honda S2000 had.

[cv2065]

You do realize that the starter solenoid pulls about 1.5 amps, as the new mini starters doesn't engage the pinion

Thanks Rich. I contacted Powermaster as I'm using their 9603 Master Torque starter. They said that the 30A relay or rated button would be needed. I wish that weren't the case. Would have made it easier.

[rich grsc]

WOW that seems like a lot. Good you asked

[runamuk]

On mine if you activate it with the FOB there are some options.

No interlock - press once for ACC #2

No interlock - press twice for ACC #1 & Ignition circuits

With interlock - press for ignition and start.

I ran into a slight problem with going straight to start, the engine immediately start turning over but the ECU was still booting up so it would take a few cranks to fire. Just enough really to be annoying. What I do now is leave my foot off the brake and press the button twice to activate everything and then press the brake and start it. With this it fires right up.

Originally I wired my clutch and brake switch in series as the interlock. I've since changed it to the neutral safety switch in the TKX and the brake switch. Now I kind of wish it was only the neutral switch but I'm not changing it.

TBH, I don't think I would do another one, I would put a key switch under the dash and a pushbutton for the start like my old Honda S2000 had.

Good info, I also have the PBS-1 push button and I hate it that my engine cranks for 3-5 seconds before it fires up. I'll try your method to see if that takes care of it. Also, I dont have to push the brake pedal to shut off my engine. I had the car up on jack stands over the weekend and let it idle for a while, then I just reached in over the door and pushed the button, it shut off.