Hazard Lighting Wiring for Latching Push Button

[cv2065]

For a single push button Hazard switch like this one:

https://billetautomotivebuttons.com/products/22mm-hazard-lights-symbol-billet-push-button-switch?_pos=1&_sid=26d20f2d0&_ss=r

What's the best way to wire this through the RF harness? I know it has Hazard wiring included, but I also know the switch that comes with the harness seems to be a bit more complicated than this push button switch. Would a relay be necessary?

[Barwickad]

There is some discussion about using a relay in the thread below but no specifics on what the final solution was. I’m in the process of doing the same with the billet button. I purchased a cheap relay (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ITGKQCE?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details) but wont get chance to wire it in and test it until next week.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40582-RF-Hazard-Switch-to-Button-Suggested-Wiring

[cv2065]

Thanks, I hadn't seen that thread. Looks like a fuse would also be in order between the switch and 12V power source. Not sure what size? I'm looking at these relays. Was going to use another one for a fan button. I don't think one will be needed for the LED underdash lighting.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074FSZWVT/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1M1RWN6HRL8BC&psc=1

[Barwickad]

I used a couple of those relays for various other purposes on my car. The relay for the hazards will need to be double pole (just like the FF supplied toggle switch) so the two front turn signal circuits aren’t wired together. The BB switch will only see the current the relay coil pulls not the hazard circuit current, which is a 10A fuse on the RF fusebox. I’d use a 3A fuse as mentioned in the BB instructions inline with the button.

[toadster]

I used a diode - very similar to this post: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40582-RF-Hazard-Switch-to-Button-Suggested-Wiring&p=465656&viewfull=1#post465656

without the diode, all lights would flash when the turn signals were activated - the diode allows the turn signals to only work when activated and not creating a circuit across all signals

here's my post showing the diode
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?34952-25th-MKIV-9772-Build-NOR*CAL-the-car-is-home!&p=539161&highlight=diode#post539161

[Blitzboy54]

I did not use a relay and used a manual switch (same as latching). I had no issues, simply ran it in place of the supplied switch via the schematic.

[dbo_texas]

Here's how I plan to wire my billet button for hazards up using diodes to prevent back current to the hazard button LED when using the turn signals. I'm showing 2 options here.

OPTION 1 - The wiring in the main diagram allows the billet button LED to flash WITH the hazards. So the button on the dash will blink. Notice the same PINK-HAZARD FLASHER feeds the relay coil & billet button LED, and also the output side of the relay.

OPTION 2 - The diagram on the top right labeled as "ALTERNATE" is if you don't want the billet button LED to flash with the hazards, but rather just stay illuminated when the hazards are on. Think of this as the less obnoxious version. Note that in this wiring, you would use +12V BATT FEED (like the RED-RADIO MEM wire) to drive the relay coil and billet button LED, but use the PINK-HAZARD FLASHER as the feed on the output side of the relay.

I think either option will work, but full discloser I haven't tested either one out yet. Hope this helps someone - and if anyone sees a problem in my logic here, please let me know!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=201344&d=1720036021

[cv2065]

Just a follow up with a fresh diagram for the Hazard switch with Billet Button. Bottom pic is of the DPDT relay for the Hazard button. Top left is the Billet Automotive button. A couple of questions.

1. I have the switch running from Pin 8 on the relay to two pins on the switch for power. Does this look correct? This comes from the BB diagram but not sure why the two pins on the switch are bridged.

2. Do I still need to run the switch to the IGN/ACC positive if its already getting a 12V source on Pin 7? My guess is yes as it will need to be activated via the key but wanted to double check.

3. The button has two LED leads and I'm not sure where I would connect those?

Thanks!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/Screenshot_2024-08-08_003402.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/Screenshot_2024-08-08_003402.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)


This is how the billet button wires to a single pole relay, but wasn't sure on the DPDT.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/Screenshot_2024-08-08_004553.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/Screenshot_2024-08-08_004553.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[Broncoman75]

Here's how I plan to wire my billet button for hazards up using diodes to prevent back current to the hazard button LED when using the turn signals. I'm showing 2 options here.

OPTION 1 - The wiring in the main diagram allows the billet button LED to flash WITH the hazards. So the button on the dash will blink. Notice the same PINK-HAZARD FLASHER feeds the relay coil & billet button LED, and also the output side of the relay.

OPTION 2 - The diagram on the top right labeled as "ALTERNATE" is if you don't want the billet button LED to flash with the hazards, but rather just stay illuminated when the hazards are on. Think of this as the less obnoxious version. Note that in this wiring, you would use +12V BATT FEED (like the RED-RADIO MEM wire) to drive the relay coil and billet button LED, but use the PINK-HAZARD FLASHER as the feed on the output side of the relay.

I think either option will work, but full discloser I haven't tested either one out yet. Hope this helps someone - and if anyone sees a problem in my logic here, please let me know!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=201344&d=1720036021

I am at this stage of my MKIV kit and I have two questions regarding your wiring of Billet Button. First, have you actually tried Option 1 yet? And, Second if I am reading it correctly, doesn't your diagram show hooking power to ground by hooking up pin 85 to the pink power lead? Sorry I am not a whiz when it comes to wiring, but this seems wrong.

[Papa]

I think the BB diagram shows a relay because the powered device is a light bar, which could have a high current draw. The hazards, as wired in the RF harness are already fused and low draw, so no relay is required. The provided DPDT switch is used to keep the hazards isolated, which is why you only use one end of the switch. You can just swap the kit switch with the BB switch and diodes to prevent backfeeding and that should work without all the added complexity.

[weendoggy]

I am at this stage of my MKIV kit and I have two questions regarding your wiring of Billet Button. First, have you actually tried Option 1 yet? And, Second if I am reading it correctly, doesn't your diagram show hooking power to ground by hooking up pin 85 to the pink power lead? Sorry I am not a whiz when it comes to wiring, but this seems wrong.

If you look at the diagram, Pin85 is the ground, but, there is a light in between the BB switch (Pin86) and ground. So, the light is the resistance and gets lit from Pin86 and grounds to Pin85. No harm, no foul. If you didn't want the light there, there would be no wire from the BB switch to Pin85.

[Blitzboy54]

I think the BB diagram shows a relay because the powered device is a light bar, which could have a high current draw. The hazards, as wired in the RF harness are already fused and low draw, so no relay is required. The provided DPDT switch is used to keep the hazards isolated, which is why you only use one end of the switch. You can just swap the kit switch with the BB switch and diodes to prevent backfeeding and that should work without all the added complexity.

This is precisely what I did. It works great.

[Wingman06]

So I integrated a turn signal and hazard box from Signal Dynamics, part #01005. So the way this works is I have momentary switches for my turn signals. With this box (super easy to install) if I press the turn signal button the turn signal will blink for 7 seconds and then turn off. If I hold the button for 2 seconds it will blink for 20 seconds. If I want it to stop I just press it again. For the hazards I just press both turn signals at the same time and they blink until I press them again. Very clean. I just posted a video with links in the description to all the pieces parts. Here's the link https://youtu.be/tYnP6gEp7pQ Go to minute 24 to see how I wired the switches or to 38:30 to see how I did the box, Orrrrr go right to 41:15 to see how it all works.

[Broncoman75]

If you look at the diagram, Pin85 is the ground, but, there is a light in between the BB switch (Pin86) and ground. So, the light is the resistance and gets lit from Pin86 and grounds to Pin85. No harm, no foul. If you didn't want the light there, there would be no wire from the BB switch to Pin85.

After reading your response, I had a "hand to forehead" moment. Thanks