QT Bellhousing Backing Plate

[cv2065]

I have my QuickTime 6060 Bellhousing (non SFI) and backing plate for my TKX trans. The Roush engine came with flywheel and backing plate installed. Do I need to pull the flywheel and replace the Roush backing plate with the QuickTime one, or can I install the QT bellhousing as is? Wasn’t sure how universal these backing plates are and want to address if needed before the clutch goes on.

Also, some sites say that you don’t have to check the run out on QT Bellhousings as they are ‘precision cut’. Is there a consensus there?

Thanks.

[Bill Elliott]

Absolutely would check run out on any bellhousing regardless of what you have read. It's your only guarantee that you won't chew up your trans. Its not difficult. Gives you peace of mind also knowing everything is in alignment. Also Tremec will not warrant one that has not been checked.

Cheers, Bill

[edwardb]

X2 on checking the runout. Good practice plus, as mentioned, specifically listed in the Tremec warranty. I would not assume the backing plate is universal. You could check with Roush to see what bell the plate they installed is for. But no big deal to remove the flywheel and install the one that came with your Quicktime. That's what I would do. Too many downsides to not having the exact right one.

[cv2065]

I heard back from Roush on this. They said:

“You can remove our block plate, but we usually need to machine a relief cut in the back plate for the QT bell. You can use ours as a template. They are relief cuts on either side of the crank center hole.”

Anyone had to do this before?

[ggunter]

Make sure you check the runout on your trans. The tremec transmissions use a tapered roller bearing on the input shaft and it has preload on it. Unlike a ball bearing input shaft that has a fair amount of flop on it. If it's not within the .005 spec it's being pushed sideways and bearing damage will result. Not to mention crappy shifting.

[mrglaeser]

I heard back from Roush on this. They said:

“You can remove our block plate, but we usually need to machine a relief cut in the back plate for the QT bell. You can use ours as a template. They are relief cuts on either side of the crank center hole.”

Anyone had to do this before?

Yes I had to do something similar. There was a frost plug that stuck out to far. I just took a hole-saw to the plate. When I installed everything without the relief I could not get the run out correct on the bellhousing. Cut the hole and everything lined up.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Home/9999-Factory-Five-Roadster/i-8CZbMbT/0/MGKcN2XZHqmdWVxVp7WJL3NQDnCSxR8WX4g9DQVt/X2/20240504_194749-X2.jpg (https://mattglaeser.smugmug.com/Home/9999-Factory-Five-Roadster/i-8CZbMbT/A)

https://photos.smugmug.com/Home/9999-Factory-Five-Roadster/i-2N6dWTF/0/CgTSgNDwMjjS6V4Kvw2cj6rxM8zzZnWB3CZnsDnCq/X2/20240512_143534-X2.jpg (https://mattglaeser.smugmug.com/Home/9999-Factory-Five-Roadster/i-2N6dWTF/A)

[cv2065]

I'm going to install the QT Bell. Pulled off the flywheel and here's what I found. Roush is telling me that I have to modify the QT back plate with the reliefs around the crank hole to ensure there is no oil pan interference, as seen on their back plate. When I install the QT back plate, it sits all the way down on the pegs and is flush to the block. I don't see any oil pan interference. Am I missing something?

Here's the Roush back plate installed with reliefs:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9389.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9389.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Here's the QT back plate installed:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9390.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9390.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

QT back plate from the side:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9394.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9394.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[Railroad]

A picture of one plate lying over the other may reveal more to the observer.

[cv2065]

Now that I'm looking at them, the QT back plate seems to align with the block much better than the Roush. Roush did say that this back plate was not intended for a single source bellhousing and that the cuts were for the oil pan lip to not push the bottom of the block plate out, but I'm still not seeing that. Here's a pic of the block and the QT black plate overlayed on the Roush back plate and the block itself.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9396.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9396.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9395.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9395.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

To follow up, there was no interference with the QT backing plate. Looks like there might be variations of the DART block and it could in some instances. Moving on, now the QT bell won't install over the dowel pins. Dowel pins are .5" round and I've lightly sanded any powder coating out of the QT bell dowel holes and dowels. I know it's supposed to be a tight fit, but these aren't aligning. With a tap of the dead blow hammer, the bell goes on about 1/2 way then gets stuck.

Don't want to grind anything so I might try some different dowels. With hammer and bolt, I can tap them out from the rear. Seems like stock replacements are 'extra long'. Lakewood, MDL....Any recommendations there? I find it hard to believe that it's the bellhousing, but I guess it's possible.