#0 battery cables

[JCB52]

Does anyone know of a vendor that makes up these cables for a MKIV with battery in the trunk?

[Alan_C]

I would recommend you make your own cables. I buy my cable and connectors from Battery Cables USA. Reasonably priced for the quality cable and connectors they sell. I use a hand held hydraulic crimper from Harbor Freight to crimp the connectors. Investing in the crimper will allow you to make the cable to the exact length you want based upon the routing you choose. Likely cheaper than buying a cable from someone this, while it may be close to the length you need, will not fit as well as a cable you would make for your exact application. Last for cutting cable and cutting SS braided lines I use the Doyle cable cutter from Harbor Freight. These cable cutters provide the cleanest cuts on the SS braided line and the 1 gauge cable I am using in my application. Best yet, they are lifetime guaranteed. My first set dulled a bit more than I liked. I took them back and exchanged for my second set no hassle.
IMO, it is often worth the investment in good reasonable priced tools rather than try to find a pre-made solution to a custom application. For the crimper and cable cutter the tools will cost you less than $100. At Battery Cables USA you can buy the cable and the specific connectors you choose. It is great that you can buy straight and 90 degree connectors for the cleanest connection at the battery and starter.
Last, are you sure you need a #0 gauge cable. I would suggest you likely only need such a heavy gauge cable if you are installing a high compression big block engine. Most modern mini-starters are more efficient and likely do not need that heavy of a cable. My current build is 70 Mustang with a trunk mounted battery. My run is 13 feet using a #1 gauge cable. The voltage drop when the starter is cranking is not bad at less than 1 volt when starting my 2nd Gen Coyote. The run in the MK4 is considerably shorter. If you are running an EFI application, they generally require a direct connection to the battery positive post.
In my application, I actually run two positive cables, the #1 for the starter only and a #6 for the Control Pack PDB and the rest of the body harness. This dual cable approach results in the highest possible voltage for the PCM when cranking as the voltage drop in the secondary #6 cable is far less than seen at the starter. A little more complicated, however a better approach than trying to run a over sized single cable. If you have more questions, PM me.

https://www.batterycablesusa.com/

https://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-64044.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/10-in-cable-cutters-63827.html?_br_psugg_q=cable+cutter

[Sarcasticshrub]

x2 on roll your own. I did the same as Alan_C and bought what I needed from Battery Cables USA.

I went with the #2 Gauge copper battery cable flexible rubber with ends. I had them make one cable set (pos & neg) with only one end. I left the other end off until I could install the cable to see exactly where I needed to terminate in the trunk. It took around 9 feet of cable to get from the battery to the starter position.

I added a few extra feet of cable, heat shrink, and ends to my order to make some dedicated grounds and modifications to the FFR-supplied positive cable (repurposed for extra fuse boxes behind the glove box). For crimping the ends I used one of those hammer-type crimpers I've had for years.

The cables are of a nice quality and surprisingly flexible.

[jab351w]

I used this kit to replace the original #4 cable in my car with battery in the trunk FFMetal box:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRF-40113

Somewhat of a compromise between make/buy as you will need to cut to length and crimp ring terminals on one end, but has the battery terminals pre-installed. I used a crimper similar to this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DBQZPNJ

which works well enough if you use it in a vice, though the hydraulic crimpers mentioned are a better for more $$$. #1 cable is plenty to spin the ~10.5:1 static compression 347 in my car with what looks to be the typical Ford mini-starter, but YMMV.

[Jeff Kleiner]

If you have an Interstate battery store locally measure up your lengths then tell them what size cable and the type of ends you want. They have the equipment to properly crimp them. #0 is probably overkill; I've used #2 on the cars I've built and have had no issues even with trunk mounted batteries and the old Ford remote solenoid starters.

Jeff

[rich grsc]

As Jeff said WAY OVER KILL. All my builds I've used what FFR sends, never an issue. Use a mini-starter, I get mine from DB Electric

[Mark Reynolds]

I know this was not the question but you could also just change your battery and mount it up front in which case 4 gauge cable is fine.

[Mike.Bray]

I know this was not the question but you could also just change your battery and mount it up front in which case 4 gauge cable is fine.

If only someone made a kit for that:)

[JohnK]

I agree with several of the posts above:

- consider moving the battery to the front with the Breeze battery box
- #0 is overkill, even for a rear-mounted battery
- I went with #2 and a front-mounted battery, which is still overkill.
- Consider using Fusion battery terminals instead of crimping. They're much easier to use, avoid having to buy a large crimper, and have better contact and corrosion resistance than a crimped cable.

https://www.delcity.net/store/Straight-Barrel-Fusion-Battery-Terminals/p_804069.h_804070

[Flip Smiley]

I started with battery under the truck floor with provided cable. Experienced hard starts when the engine was warm. Went with #2 welding cable that solved the hot start problem. After 6 years I needed to change the failing battery. After fighting to remove the battery from under the trunk floor I decided to move it up front. I would always install the battery for easy service up front in the engine compartment. I don’t think it changes the weight distribution or handling noticeably. Especially on a street driven only car.
Best regards.

[phileas_fogg]

A word about assembling the fusion battery terminals JohnK recommends: when you push the cable into the molten solder, go slowly to avoid air bubbles & ensure a good connection.


John

[Flip Smiley]

Yes on the Fusion Battery terminations, worked very well for me. Add red or black shrink tube on the ends for a very clean factory looking finish.

[BUDFIVE]

I too like to make my own cables. I have the big, expensive crimping pliers but changed to using a cheap hammer crimper.
Here’s an example for ~$13.

https://www.amazon.com/AMZCNC-Hammer-Crimper-Tool-mounting/dp/B09TGNZPC4/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2GT0LLGOXLQ07&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.fCoUv0W1bF7ha8-DmjKKkI9hYM-tIl_XPuKZ7bCSVZsIDyxhjbBARPjZGLZsrzxhOu-zySU4H8oOYGG06YBdukrebUPws9PEgl4VBkL6bo_DdTLtz1hQ4 NmT5q82EgShnFsfmecxnbKJxFvhsmmq5LmnTj1nctpCV0gHcz1 Sa1tYOVV3cp_EyHtsl3KnEZYiCbHtmXw7mF5sXCxzd0SZ3-FOw2ip1q90PPd5gJDozOjTN326Cur32S5paN_7qurikcVi6hWt fjITXGXGDUly0fkmFp1c1QGoNeM_jlh7C4g.wNYZrHg7DE-5b2mxXM643nlNPrZCExdTFJUGgEZQ6aU&dib_tag=se&keywords=amzcnc+hammer+lug+crimper+tool&qid=1719454950&sprefix=Amzcnc%2Caps%2C101&sr=8-1

P201042

I use the following process:
1) strip the end of the wire
2) rub solder flux paste on the wire strands*
3) insert the wire in the lug and crimp the lug with a hammer crimper
4) drill 1/8” hole in the sloped end of lug near the flat with hole*
5) heat the wire and lug end with propane torch and push solder into 1/8” hole, allow to cool*
6) heat shrink tube over crimped wire/lug
7) add loom and tape as desired

Steps 2, 4 and 5 are overkill to solder after the crimp. I skip these for some wires.
I’ve used this method in auto, marine and ranch applications for years and it works for me.

On the roadster, I’ve used this method with #2 for the battery, power cutoff to distribution bar, alternator output etc.
Here’s the alternator output for example:
201043

[edwardb]

I also agree #0 is way overkill. I've standardized on #2 for my builds. Both front and rear battery locations. Also probably overkill. I use battery cable from West Marine. Sold by the foot (not cheap...) but high quality and very flexible. I also use the Fusion battery connectors from DelCity.net. Nice product and easy to install. I actually use DelCity.net for many of my electrical supplies. They have a huge variety of terminals including the heavy duty ones for power cables, breakers, and shrink sleeving sold in longer sticks vs. the small packages of pieces at the big box stores. For crimping the larger power wires, several builds ago I bought this hydraulic crimper. https://www.amazon.com/DEWIN-Hydraulic-Integral-Portable-Pressure/dp/B0CF8PQBZG. It's doubled in price since I bought mine in 2018. But still a bargain and works great. I've used it for 3+ builds and a buddy used it for his. The die markings are a little wonky, so test before committing. But makes perfect crimps quite easily. I've cut through a few after testing and find basically solid copper. For battery cables I use Taylor Cable 20670 covers. Perfect tight fit over the Fusion connectors and a very professional and secure setup. This is my Coupe during the build.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=97587&d=1542472755

[edwardb]

I had to install a larger gauge wire per my starter specifications. Wire length and gauge size matters. For the cost of tools to crimp ends on you can get the wire complete with ends from this company. https://www.batterycablesusa.com/0-gauge-1-0-awg-extreme-battery-cable-with-ends

I agree for many this may be the best solution. I'm a tool guy and enjoy trying new things. Since I've done several builds the expense has been spread out. But I'm also a big believer in doing things myself if I can. Mostly successful... In the case of wiring, cutting to length as you go helps to get a neat job. Similar discussion for A/C hoses. Sometimes the economic aspect isn't the most important. If it was, we may not be building these things. :p

[DavidW]

Does anyone know of a vendor that makes up these cables for a MKIV with battery in the trunk?

Here you go: https://www.batterycablesusa.com/00-gauge-2-0-awg-marine-grade-battery-cable-with-ends

[cv2065]

I followed Paul's lead on the last build for battery cable routing and will this time as well. Very clean install. Making them is not that difficult. Hammer crimper is a favorite. I did find that the 4 gauge wires caused starting issues for me at one point. I swapped over to 2 gauge and never had an issue again.

[danmas]

Revisiting an older thread. I got a pretty good deal on some 1 guage wire. Its probably way overkill but any reason not to use it?

[Rebostar]

I make all my own cables. I use #1 for trunk mounted batteries and #2 for everything else. Summit sells quality copper cable and terminal fittings. They also sell a great swaging tool. I solder all the teminials then use the swaging tool. Just set the terminal in the jaws and give it a whack with a single jack, cover with heat shrink.

208126208127

[Nigel Allen]

1 gauge is completely fine, preferably fine stranded for flexibility.

[rich grsc]

Revisiting an older thread. I got a pretty good deal on some 1 guage wire. Its probably way overkill but any reason not to use it?

Is it battery cable, welding cable or electric cable wire?

[danmas]

Battery cable wire. Comes with attachments for lugs and what not. Ostensibly it is for heavy duty marine batteries but I was reading this thread yesterday and I wondered if it was too heavy duty for the car. Apparently not.

Dan