What Kind of Jack Is Everyone Using for Their Cobra

[Redlinejoev]

For those of us without the ability to install a lift in our garage, what is the preferred method of jacking up your car? I bought a low profile long reach jack, which fits nicely under my car however the jack pad is so small that my car has slipped off twice. Luckily both times there was no damage. I wonder if I got the wrong jack or if Im using the wrong lift points underneath. I typically place the jack pad under the ladder frame tube and lift from there. Am I doing something wrong? What kind of jack is everone using? Where do you place your jack for lifting the car? Any help would be greatly appreciated and thank you in advance for your replies.

Joe

[BornWestUSA]

I use a Quick Jack 5000 TL for most tasks, I like that the whole car is raised to "working height" and I can put all 4 tires on home made "wheel stands" to have good access to everything underneath.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0R2W3CocHhU

[Alan_C]

I used the low profile aluminum jack from Harbor Freight. They used to be $50, but no more as I see the current price is double that. However, they have sales and if you are a track club member, better discounts. My jack had a very slow leak, but a bit of BarsLeak hydraulic fluid managed it as I still have and use the jack over 12 years later.
My only comment regarding using the jack on the 4 inch round tubes is to be careful you center the pad on the tube or there is the possibility of the car slipping off the jack. I had it happen once, fortunately the car was not very high off the ground and there was no damage. I have often thought about making a special pad from a section of 5 inch tubing which would self center. I have a couple on order now but I also have a Max Jax which will be used during construction. Once my coupe is on the road, I will revisit the idea of making a rounded pad.

https://www.harborfreight.com/15-ton-low-profile-aluminum-racing-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-64545.html

[cv2065]

Harbor freight low profile jack. On the front it’s low enough to lift each side by the vertical 4” tubes from the front to get a couple of 2x4’s under the front wheels for some height. Then I’ll center it on the front horizontal 4” tube with a 2x4 to lift to get higher. On the rear it’s fits fine on the flat spot of the pumpkin, just be careful not to touch the cover.

[egchewy79]

^^+1
I have a HF low profile jack but have to jack up one side first, place a piece of 6x6 wood under the frame, before I can get the jack under the cross member 4” tube. Had Jack slip one, taking out my battery box. I make darn sure it’s centered now. Chock rear tires or have e brake on to make sure it doesn’t roll back

[edwardb]

I've been successfully jacking my cars with a floor jack on the round tubes for a long time. X2 an making sure the jack is exactly centered and don't go too high without adding jack stands. Also X2 on chocking the wheels that are still on the ground while jacking. There are round rubber pads out there you can add to the lifting point on your floor jack. If properly fitted, can help a little to prevent slipping. Plus save marring the powder coated frame.

[Mike.Bray]

I made this for my HF jack. Works like a champ.

https://www.imagecoast.com/images/MichaelBray1/20240604200038mediumrotated.jpg

https://www.imagecoast.com/images/MichaelBray1/20240604162503mediumrotated.jpg


I jack up one side and put a 4x4 under the front tire then do the other side. After that I can get under to the round crossmember and jack it up the rest of the way.

[skidd]

Low profile harbor freight jack. And one of these. Never had a problem.

DEDC Floor Jack Pads,Universal Rubber Pinch Weld Protector Jack Adapter Pads/Pucks, Car Lift Frame Rail Protection Accessories - 1 Pc https://a.co/d/4j3Oe9M

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Don't have a special adaptor just a low profile 3 ton Pittsburg jack. Use wheel chocks at the opposite end from where i am working. Put the jack under the right front frame tube. Jack it up to slip a pair of 2X10 boards (nailed together & cut to form a stepped ramp) under the wheel. Lower the jack & center it on the front tube crossmember. A couple of pumps clears the left wheel to slip the boards under. Jack it up slip in the 5ton jack stands then up to working Hight adjusting the jack stands.

Taking it down is the reverse except I drive the car off the wood ramps.

Similar process in the rear but use the differential case as the center jacking point.

[ProfessorB]

I use a low profile jack I've had for a long time...nothing special. But I DO make sure it's perfectly centered. Also, I DO visually make sure the jack is "rolling" as the car rises. And finally....I use some good old cardboard between the jack and the frame. It's a lot less slippery than metal on metal and it keeps the paint on the frame from getting scratched.

[dbo_texas]

Same as most of the others on here - I use a Pittsburgh low profile 3-ton jack from Harbor Freight and it's worked like a champ. While lifting, I also chock any wheels that are still on the ground and I never leave it with just one side up; I never work under the car with ONLY the lifting jack - I always put some jack stands in place under the car once its lifted up. Any time I work underneath the car, in addition to the jack stands I also use this 3-ton jack in place just in case one of the jack stands fails it will provide a safety backup (but I don't rely solely on it).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200725&d=1718675677

[rich grsc]

So why does everyone think the only place to jack is the 4" frame? I often jack from the side using the 2" square tube at the door hinge point or the rear at the latch area

[cv2065]

So why does everyone think the only place to jack is the 4" frame? I often jack from the side using the 2" square tube at the door hinge point or the rear at the latch area

Good point and agree. Most likely because of wall clearance in the garage. Put in the first bay, it's easy to do that on one side, but too close on the other.

[ggunter]

Nicely done adapter Mike, you could probably sell one of those to everyone on this forum. I see it will cup the tubes nicely.

[Mike.Bray]

Nicely done adapter Mike, you could probably sell one of those to everyone on this forum. I see it will cup the tubes nicely.

If anyone wants one just PM me your email address and I'll send you the step file and where to get it 3D printed.

[Wizbangdoodle]

If anyone wants one just PM me your email address and I'll send you the step file and where to get it 3D printed.

PM sent

[M22_COBRA]

Nice piece / great idea! On a hunch I looked what was available on the innerwebs. Looks like they are mostly set for bottle jacks and would require some cutting and fab. What material did they DMLS that from? Are we talking below $40 from a place like Protolabs or possibly more?

[CraigS]

So why does everyone think the only place to jack is the 4" frame? I often jack from the side using the 2" square tube at the door hinge point or the rear at the latch area

Because the MkIV has the fiberglass body wrap around under that 2x2 tube at the rocker area. I did the same as you on my MkII. A comment on the 4" tube location. Most round jack pads have 4 small walls around the edge to retain a rubber pad. As you move it toward a 4" tube be sure those 4 nubs are at 2, 4, 8, and 10 clock positions so the tube nestles in between the nubs. Depending how hard rubber the pad is made from and how close to flush it is w/ the tops of the nubs, it may be better to remove it. The nubs are not as good Mike.Bray's piece but they work pretty well. One could also build them up w/ some weld or grind down between them to get a little more self centering effect.

[Axoid]

If anyone wants one just PM me your email address and I'll send you the step file and where to get it 3D printed.

PM sent.