View Full Version : E-Brake Install. Pre or post transmission installation?
Rebostar
06-11-2024, 06:30 PM
I just finished running wiring down both the upper sides of the tunnel. Including the Dorman Seat Heaters. Everything is tucked away nice and neat. It seems to me that it would be a lot easier to install the E-brake system now, before the engine and transmission are installed. The manual calls for installation after. Looks much harder! Any constructive input would be handy. If I install it now and rig it can I take it all out to install the engine & trany if nessasary? Any hidden handgranades gonna bow up in my face?
Allyn
Jeff Kleiner
06-11-2024, 07:09 PM
I've always sorted out the E-Brake prior to engine/trans installation.
Jeff
Wizbangdoodle
06-11-2024, 10:29 PM
^^This.
Build class also suggests this.
egchewy79
06-12-2024, 06:24 AM
now's also the time to consider the routing of your e-brake cables if you'd rather do something other than the "under the frame" suggestion in the manual. I did a double pulley above the 4" frame popularized by edwardb and it's much easier to do with the transmission out of the tunnel.
BrewCityCobra
06-12-2024, 07:24 AM
I just finished running wiring down both the upper sides of the tunnel. Including the Dorman Seat Heaters. Everything is tucked away nice and neat. It seems to me that it would be a lot easier to install the E-brake system now, before the engine and transmission are installed. The manual calls for installation after. Looks much harder! Any constructive input would be handy. If I install it now and rig it can I take it all out to install the engine & trany if nessasary? Any hidden handgranades gonna bow up in my face?
Allyn
Gotta go before, once that transmission is up in the tunnel there is very little room (especially on the passenger side). Much easier to do before hand.
Mat1asBEV&ICE
06-12-2024, 04:41 PM
Had mine installed before engine and tranny. Removed it because I decided to make a mod. PITA to put it back with engine and tranny in.
Rebostar
06-12-2024, 05:00 PM
five to zip....the "befores" have it!!
Wizbangdoodle
06-17-2024, 03:51 PM
now's also the time to consider the routing of your e-brake cables if you'd rather do something other than the "under the frame" suggestion in the manual. I did a double pulley above the 4" frame popularized by edwardb and it's much easier to do with the transmission out of the tunnel.
Interested in this. When we installed the E-brake in class, I thought there's got to be a better way to route this.
Have any links or info on how you did it?
Rebostar
06-17-2024, 06:01 PM
I installed the emergency brake before installing the engine and transmission. After assembling the e-brake handle and running the cables to it, I've decided whoever designed the cables to go UNDER the 4" crosstube and chafe a hole in it did not think things through very well, and that I wont be using the FFR e brake. I'll most likely get the American Shifter Electric E Brake system. Seems the best unit for the price. Right now I just wish I'd have planned to install it from the get go as the most logical place for it is now being occupied by the fuel pump and filter. I can save $175 and get the American Shifter Unit which will only now fit behind the cubby on the upper trunk deck, or get the one from 520 Speedworks which is $575 and will fit on the right side of the lower transmission mount parallel with the TKX.
Interested in that "Double Pulley" system....any pics????
egchewy79
06-17-2024, 06:20 PM
https://www.ffcars.com/threads/first-roadster-build.636356/page-14?post_id=6074070#post-6074070
Post #261
Rebostar
06-29-2024, 06:32 PM
I sorted out the emergency brake situation. Before I spent the $500. for an electronic brake I thought I'd see if I could fabricate something that would work. I bought the Wilwood universal e brake cable kit when I bought my rearend housing. This emergency brake system is the Wilwood drum style so the kit works. What I did not like was the FFR system with the cable rubbing the finish off the 4" cross tube. Egchewy79 posted a pic of them using pullies to get the cables routed correctly. I used his idea. I expanded it somewhat as I added 2.5 inches to the bottom of the lever where the cable attaches. This gets everything off and away from the mounting frame with a direct shot to the pully then up to the upper cable sheath attach points. I used the two into one block supplied with the Willwood cable kit. I drilled a 3/8 hole in the 1" diagonal frame to mount the pulley. Works great! Three clicks and its engaged, and the cable doesnt rub on anything!
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