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DonImbimbo
06-10-2024, 07:05 AM
I finally got to the point of first engine start and first drive (although very short distance, out of garage and back into the garage).

200576

I have not posted much about my build. I don't think there is much for anyone to learn from my build, except maybe how long it took me to get to this point. Although I have been messing around with cars since High School (60 years ago) I have never tried to build a kit car.

The kit got delivered February 8th, 2023. I'm retired, but I spend only 5 or 6 days a week and no more than 6 hours per day.

During the early part of the kit build, when I was missing parts, I worked on several areas that don't show in the above picture.

The doors already have hinges attached and the door frame installed
The engine side covers have already been split for suspension
Dash gauges have been prewired
Headlights and tail lights have been prewired
Interior of CAB sanded and filler applied in certain areas


Wiring took considerably longer than I expected. I started the wiring in July by laying the harnesses in place. But as I went along I realized that the stock harness were not going to work for me. I completely disassembled the RF harness and rebuilt them for the equipment in this build. Wiring became a start / stop project, working on it a little here and there. I removed wires I did not need and added others. I also removed most of the connectors, except the interface to the dash.

By middle December the whole project went on hold as the weather got cold which makes heating our garage more costly.

Mild weather arrived in February and I finished the wiring. Here's a list of the equipment in the truck:

Power steering
Sniper fuel injection
Vintage Air, Heat, Cool, Defrost
Ford 4R70W trans with Quick4 controller
Windshield Wipers
backup lights
Daytime running lights (using 2 diodes, no extra wire, parking lights still work)
Derale transmission cooler
Backup camera
Lokar sport shifter with manual mode


I wanted all fuses to exist in fuse panels, no inline fuses. So I added two additional fuse panels: one for Ignition ON power and the other for Accessory ON power.

I also changed the battery cables to 1/0 welding wire, both positive and negative run to the front of the truck. Alternator runs directly to the starter. Only one heavy copper wire (8ga) runs from the starter to a battery distribution buss by the Vintage Air. From there two wires run to Ignition Switch and Fuse Panel.

I'm not a fan of the plastic, corrugated tubing. So where possible and when a harness is finalized, the plastic stuff is removed and the harness is wrapped with harness wrapping tape.

The other area that I spent quite a bit of time on is seat position. My Wife is 5 foot and I'm only 5-6". I used the 2 inch risers from F5. I added seat tracks (another inch) and used a 2.5 inch seat frame between the tracks and the floor. This seems to work well for us.

The engine is a Blueprint Ford 347. The first start did not go well. In order to get coolant to the Vintage Air I had to add an elbow to the intake, right next to the distributor. I got a two piece stainless elbow that fit. But it interfered with the distributor cab hold down tabs. This meant re-clocking the distributor CCW, which I screwed up. So I had to pull spark plugs, valve cover, reset TDC and then reset distributor, eyeballing the rotor to plug one. This time when I hit the key it started right up. Although I lost the original timing set by Blueprint. For now it is set at 14 degrees, I'll check full advance later.

So I would say it's a success so far, although it is puking water after being shutoff. I still have to mount a radiator overflow tank (this week or next). Once I have that sorted I'll drain the water and switch to coolant.

Once the overflow tank is in I'll feel more comfortable about a longer drive, maybe even getting out of first gear! All the gauges are working but I have not been able to test the speedo, which is being driven by the Quick4 controller NOT the tailshaft sensor.

I think later this month or early next month the cab goes back on and we start again with Body Work.

If you have any questions about my build please ask.

Don

Lew
06-10-2024, 03:07 PM
Daytime running lights (using 2 diodes, no extra wire, parking lights still work)

If I may ask, where and what diodes did you use?

Lewis

DonImbimbo
06-10-2024, 04:39 PM
I used two 1N5401 diodes, good for 3 amps which is way more than the center bar lights. I mounted mine attached to the harness right behind the headlight switch. There are two TAN wires on one contact. One goes to the rear lights and the other to the front. You have to figure out which one is which. Leave the TAN for the rear connected and cut the tan for the front, but cut it a couple inches away from the connector. The cut TAN wires for the front will get reconnected with a diode. I should probably attach a sketch here of how the other diode gets attached.

200599

So when the ignition is ON the park light is ON or when the Headlight switch is in Park.

I hope this helps, any other questions just ask. Don

Lew
06-11-2024, 06:45 AM
Thanks Don

Lewis

Joel Hauser
06-11-2024, 07:36 AM
Congratuations on first start and drive. Your truck looks great even without the cab and bed.