427 Windsor Oil Recommendation ?

[ProfessorB]

I realize I may be opening a Pandara's box of debate, but what do y'all prefer for oil in a 427 stroker....and why? Single grade ...multigrade? Conventional or synthetic? (I have heard some good arguments for conventional RACING (off-road) oil because of the high zinc content...). Just looking for input.

[Bob Cowan]

Unless you're racing, there's no magical oil that will make your engine run better or last longer.

Synthetic oil is has two advantages: It can handle high heat, like in racing. And you can use an extended drain interval. If those two things don't interest you, don't waste your money.

40 weight oil will stabilize the valvetrain a little better at higher rpm's. 5W oil will flow better when cold.

[cv2065]

Blueprint recommends 10W30 Dino for the first 9,000 miles in their 427 after break in.

[Jim1855]

It was recommended to run Mobile 1 10W30 by my engine builder but this was 20 years ago and I'll start with that the next time it runs. I also ran 10W40 or 20W50. Tried Royal Purple and Red Line, there were other brands I'm sure. If I was to spend more time on the track I'd probably run Red Line. BTW I like their MTL trans fluid.

I agree with the break in using dino oil but there are debates on the need for this with the new ring and bearing materials.

Might be safe to review this with the engine builder, especially if they are providing a warranty.

Jim

[Fman]

I am running Lucas Hot Rod 10w40 conventional, 1000-1500 mile oil changes (annually). So far after 6300 miles all is good.

[StangRacer]

As far as viscosity it depends on your bearing clearances. The more clearance you have on the rods and mains the heavier oil you can run... However, it doesn't always work the other way. When I was drag racing I used 5wt RedLine in a naturally aspirated small block Ford turning 9200 rpm going through the traps with .003 to .0032 clearance on the rods. Of course, a drag race engine is run much cooler so the viscosity the engine sees is going to be heavier. I once tried 20w-50 in an effort to help the lifters, I ran a hydraulic roller, and it ate all of the rod bearings. In order for the oil to do its job, lubricating and cooling, there has to be flow. A heavy viscosity oil is not going to flow very well with tight bearing clearances or cold temperatures.

In regard to using a racing oil or a normal passenger car oil much of that depends on what type of cam you are using. If you are using a flat tappet cam you are going to need an oil that has a fair amount of zinc. If you are using a roller cam, either hydraulic or solid, and the primary use of the engine is street driving any good synthetic will do a fine job. When I was road racing my NASA CMC Mustang I used Mobil1 5w-40 European oil from Walmart. My road race Mustang was relatively low RPM as the red line was 6400 rpm. On tear down everything in the engine looked new.

As far as zinc content is concerned, you really don't need a high content if you are using a roller cam. Whatever you do, DO NOT put any additives into your oil. There have been several studies that show there is a point of diminishing returns with elevated zinc levels where it starts to accelerate wear. If you feel you need to put an additive in your oil it would be best to find another oil...

I can't think of any reason to use a conventional oil over synthetic. Synthetic will provide better protection at higher temps and will flow better at lower temps not to mention the extended drain levels.

If you really wanted to get into this deeper reach out to the folks at Brad Penn or Joe Gibbs. I found they are very helpful and will give you a suggestion for your application along with an explanation why they are making that suggestion.

[Mike.Bray]

Driven. (http://https://www.summitracing.com/parts/jgr-00306)

[J R Jones]

I road raced SBF in the seventies and at that time we used (Sunoco) Cam II 20W50, which was OK but the oiling system in those engines did not prioritize the bottom end leading to frequent bearing changes.
At that time my daily driver was a Harley Davidson Cafe Racer (Sportster engine) with solid lifters and roller bearings on rods and mains. Harley oils were fixed viscosity, Light, Medium and Heavy. Yeah....
Late one night at our remote shop the Cafe was due for an oil change and all I had was the our racing oil. I put the Cam II in with no expectations but on the road to home at 60MPH (3000RPM) I was startled by reduced engine noise. I worked in Harley's development department at that time and took my observations to department management. They confirmed my experience and HD added Cam II to the service recommendations and it was private labeled as an accessory.
My XKR (V8) Jaguar and E46 BMW required Castrol synthetic 5W30 so that has become my default for our cars and RV. Walmart is less than $30 for a five quart jug.
I believe in light weight for cold starts and racing oil is not required unless your driving creates oil temps around 250F.
jim

[rich grsc]

There is no need or benefit to $10 qt racing oil in a street driven car.

[Mike.Bray]

There is no need or benefit to $10 qt racing oil in a street driven car.

There is to me. My 351W is not a stocker out of an F150 daily driver, it's at least twice the power and 5+ times the cost. Engine oils today are a far cry from days past thanks to our wonderful government, I'm more than happy to spend a small premium for top notch oil in my $25k engine. Even if it only makes me sleep better at night.

[ggunter]

If you want to learn all about oil, look up Lake Speed Jr on You tube. He's pretty much an oil guru.

[Mike.Bray]

If you want to learn all about oil, look up Lake Speed Jr on You tube. He's pretty much an oil guru.

No argument there!