Roll Bar Bolts

[BrewCityCobra]

So i'm in the process of installing the FFR Roll bars (passenger and driver) and was wondering what the current state-of-the art is for hardware. Are people using the stainless 5/16" button-head bolts that were provided by FFR or upgrading to something else?

Also, any good photos of what everyone is doing to hide the "Frankenstein bolt"? I'm know I can't make it disappear without using the Speedworks kit (which I've decided against), but just looking to minimize the appearance. Any ideas on both fronts greatly appreciated.

-Brew

[GoDadGo]

Brew,

I used the Factory-5 supplied 5/16" stainless button head bolts for the upper leg attachments; however, I used 3/8" Grade-8 that are cross bolted for my lower legs.
In addition, I lowered my bars by grinding off the spot welds so the hoops are bottomed out on the frame in an attempt to reduce the possibility of sheering in a roll over.
Taking this action does create a bit of bar bind at the upper attachment points because the angle of the dangle is off a bit, but I'm okay with the look nonetheless.
I wish that I had a better solution for the upper leg bolts and angle issue, but like you my goal was to reduce the Franken Bolt Scenario while improving safety.
Hope this helps and good luck.

Steve

Redbone 3-Year Update Video:
https://youtu.be/iwslgKJUaKc

[i.e.427]

Drill and tap for a nice clean look.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L6Ot5XzAHz0&list=PLDlFwXKm54ofcpUeZgtaxFAvdVOsue5Cd&index=9&t=4s

Frank

[Jeff Kleiner]

I drill & tap 180 degrees apart and install short button heads. With this method you don’t see a nut.

Jeff

[GoDadGo]

I drill & tap 180 degrees apart and install short button heads. With this method you don’t see a nut.

Jeff

I'm Smelling An Upper Bolt Upgrade!

[Mike.Bray]

I did the Breeze bar so there's no visible bolts:)

https://www.imagecoast.com/images/MichaelBray1/20240425152626mediumrotated.jpg

[cc2Arider]

Hi Jeff,

I like your solution! Do you get any flak from your Autocross inspectors?

Craig C

[Jeff Kleiner]

Hi Jeff,

I like your solution! Do you get any flak from your Autocross inspectors?

Craig C

I’ve done the 2 button heads on customer cars…my own is through bolted. Moot point though since for autocross roll over protection is not required. Depending on the event organizer track days could be a different story. I know that the Breeze roll bars have raised eyebrows because they don’t have positive drops to prevent telescoping.

Jeff

[Lidodrip]

520 Speedworks sells a bolt-less connections device - https://520speedworks.com/shop/ols/products/bolt-less-roll-bar-kit-15-inch

I am not sure how it would stand up to a track inspection.

James

[BUDFIVE]

This is too funny guys-I checked the forum at lunchtime before drilling my roll-bar. Really wasn’t anything interesting. Now……
Anyway my bolt hole on the upper rear leg is already drilled 5/16. I may try to drill and tap it for 3/8 and try Jeff’s two button head bolt solution.

[Norm B]

I cut and filed a 5/16 all thread nut to fit inside the inner roll bar tube at the joint and put a button head bolt on both sides.

Norm

[BrewCityCobra]

Wow, appreciate all of the responses here. This is all great stuff.

In view of all the comments what I ultimately decided to do was 1) upgrade to 5/16" Grade 8 bolts on the bottom end, and 2) go with the drill/tap method in two locations to help hide the Frankenstein bolt as best as possible.

Time to put my drill to the test.

[CraigS]

Another option to make the top bolt less unsightly would be to use an acorn or cap nut in chrome or SS.
https://boltdepot.com/Acorn_nuts?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=&utm_content=&utm_term=nuts&msclkid=28c9e0d83d801a58baaf8694b13a863c

[BrewCityCobra]

I cut and filed a 5/16 all thread nut to fit inside the inner roll bar tube at the joint and put a button head bolt on both sides.

Norm

Norm,

Ironically, this is a concept that my dad and I played around with, how did you get the hex nut to stay in place within the pipe?

[rich grsc]

Friction fit

[Railroad]

I considered this before going with the button headed bolts.
In my past I did some aircraft work and used nuts with a plastic cap over the threaded hole. We called them, ruby nuts.
It was a nylock nut and used red plastic. The advantage is a much lower profile.
I was unable to find them on the available market, maybe a poor search.
I guess someone could grind down and polish the acorn nut for a less pointed option.

[Norm B]

Norm,

Ironically, this is a concept that my dad and I played around with, how did you get the hex nut to stay in place within the pipe?

Filed it to fit tight (“friction fit”,as Rich suggested) then ran the bolts in from both sides and tack welded the nut inside the tube with my stick welder.
Took the bolts out and assembled the roll bars.

Norm

[rich grsc]

Norm, I really like that approach. I think I'm going to use it. Thanks

[GFX2043mtu]

Not that you’ll ever need it but if you do you’ll want a through bolt. Get a chrome nut and call it a day, much safer and will pass any auto cross or track inspection for a single driver. Personally I would never use a slip fit device on a roll bar. Think about it, the bar is designed to have the car flip and slide on it from any direction including backwards. Factory five designed the bar and mounts to actually work if ever needed. Why compromise safety at this level.