All Corner-wieghed after Suspension Upgrades - THANKS Mark Dougherty!

[Chepsk8]

As you've been following, I finally decided to do some serious spring upgrades after driving a Mustang FR500 on the track last Fall, and realized that my FFR needed some work. So, I upgraded the front shocks from 450 to 600, as well as increasing the Spring diameter, and also upped the rear springs from 250 to 450.

Here's a comparison of the front springs:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v431/Chepsk8/Frontshockcomparo.jpg

As well, during disassembly and re-assembly, multiple problems were found and corrected, as well as ride height re-set, sway bar un-hooked, and all suspension parts greased and checked for no binding and free movement. Ready to go. A quick drive around the block gave a glimpse at the new potential.

Over to Marks's, and we set to work. The car was baselined, all specs set down, and alot of preliminary work done before the scales even came out. Here's the board Mark uses to keep track:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v431/Chepsk8/Marksjobboard.jpg

Once we got the base boards level, tire pressures set, ride height checket, and suspension set, we first checked the front end alignment specs, first with camber and caster:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v431/Chepsk8/Alignmantcheck.jpg

And then toe in:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v431/Chepsk8/ToeCheck.jpg

Mark was VERY thorough and checked every part of the car and suspension. He recommended some new alignment settings so the car would handle better on the track, and made sure the current settings were safe as a minimum.

[Chepsk8]

Finally, after many hours and a thorough exam, the scales came out, and the car was gently rolled onto them:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v431/Chepsk8/Onthescales800.jpg

And a first weigh in showed:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v431/Chepsk8/Scalereadout.jpg

My car is still svelte, even with the extra chassis cage, and other improvements, it still checks in at 2290lbs. Only gained 100 since being "born" back in 2005.

Here's where we started:

LF 489 RF 602
LR 653 RR 548

Vehicle weight - 2292


We added 182 lbs to simulate the driver:

LF 541 RF 602
LR 734 RR 548

Vehicle and driver weight - 2462
Cross weight - 54.6%



Mark got to work, figuring out which coil-over to adjust, and after 5 re-checks, we got it to:

LF 588 RF 550
LR 686 RR 637

With a cross weight of 50.2%


We removed the weight of the driver, to get car only:

LF 538 RF 552
LR 603 RR 599

Cross weight - 50.4%



Finally, we corrected the toe-in to 1/8" toe out, and raised the front ride height two turns exactly of the spring collars on both front shocks to clear the front tires:

LF 544 RF 547
LR 597 RR 604

CW 49.9%

Needless to say, Mark nailed it.

And based on the car's specs, he predicted the way the car handled before doing any work.

I may bring it back, and do the race front end alignment, and we'll ahve to repeat the steps again, but it's worth it, if I choose to do so. Even as the car is right now, it's going to be dramatically different, much stiffer, more predictable in the corners, and hopefully a better track car!

This, tied in with all the other track mode will make this season a better one yet. Now I gotta start timing my laps!

THANK YOU MARK!!!!!!!!

[FFRSpec72]

What did you use for turn plates?

[riptide motorsport]

Saw the hood scoop write up with you in KIt Car Builder mag.......very cool, congrats!!!

[Mark Dougherty]

Hi Tony
for now since we were just recording the initial alighnment specs 2 pieces of ( melomine ) sorry for the spelling this is coated cabinet wood. It works awsome.
Dan will be coming back when he has more time and we want to change the alighnment numbers. He needs way more castor, and camber.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Hey Mark!
Talk to me about toe. I'm thinking that you went to toe out in Dan's case because 1) He is experienced with the car and 2) it is most often a track car. I know that toe out provides a better turn in and initial bite at the expense of some straight line stability. I always tell people with primarily street driven cars to be sure that they are toed in rather than out for that reason, feeling that they are better off with stability at the expense of a bit of grip at the limit. Agree???

Have a good week Buddy!

Jeff

[FFRSpec72]

Hi Tony
for now since we were just recording the initial alighnment specs 2 pieces of ( melomine ) sorry for the spelling this is coated cabinet wood. It works awsome.
Dan will be coming back when he has more time and we want to change the alighnment numbers. He needs way more castor, and camber.

Mark, sounds like what is being proposed here Build your own turn plates (http://www.arkansaspontiacs.org/techstories/turnplates/turnplates.html) which seems to work for casual/home usage and what I have built. Since Longacre is just 20 min from my house I got some refurbished gauges from them for just under 1/2 the retail costs (including the toe plates you have). Now I need some scales, yours look great and I'm jealous!

[Mark Dougherty]

Tony
these are the fancy scales that I never use unless here at home.
I also have a set I travel with. I think they cost me 900 shipped to my door. I prefer the less dollar units they tell you just what you need to know.
single wheel
front
back
left
right
actual weight and percentages
and most important cross. this is the biggy
you really want that on 50/50 with the driver in the car. ( on a leveled set of scales cannot skip this step)

Jeff
you are right on the money as usual.
Dans priority is track before street.