Wedel456's Build Thread - Gen3 Coupe - North Carolina [Archive]

wedel456

05-03-2024, 03:44 PM

Table of Contents (part 1):

Ordering & Build Specs:

Preface and (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=554593&viewfull=1#post554593)The Build (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=554593&viewfull=1#post554593)
Delivery, First Impressions, Inventory, and Car Dolly Build (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=559303&viewfull=1#post559303)
Tool Suggestions (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568214&viewfull=1#post568214)

The Build:

Suspension and Steering:

Suspension Prep (Painting) (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568217&viewfull=1#post568217)
Front Suspension (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568222&viewfull=1#post568222)
Center Section Installation (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568224&viewfull=1#post568224)
IRS Suspension Installation (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568286&viewfull=1#post568286).
Steering Shaft Installation (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=571498&viewfull=1#post571498)

Panels:

Under Bonnet Panels (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568227&viewfull=1#post568227)
More Custom Panels (interior Panels) (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568339&viewfull=1#post568339)
Thought Capsule - Panel Finishing (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568368&viewfull=1#post568368)
Aluminum Panels (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568518&viewfull=1#post568518)
Trunk Box Fabrication (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568523&viewfull=1#post568523)
Thought Capsule: Sound and Heat Deadening (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568532&viewfull=1#post568532)
Panel Finishing and Off to the Upholsterer (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568549&viewfull=1#post568549)
First Round of Upholstery is Back (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=569227&viewfull=1#post569227)
Rivet Preparation and Polishing (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=570471&viewfull=1#post570471)
Installing First Panels (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=570591&viewfull=1#post570591)
Remaining Panel Installation and Sound and Head Deadening Completed (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=593015&viewfull=1#post593015)
Rear Hatch Side Panel Upholstery (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=593950&viewfull=1#post593950)

Dash:

Instrument Panel Planning and Related Items (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568373&viewfull=1#post568373)
Dash Development and Customizations (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568384&viewfull=1#post568384)
Dash Completed (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568440&viewfull=1#post568440)
Switch Panel (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568511&viewfull=1#post568511)
Finalized Dash Wiring (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=570633&viewfull=1#post570633)
Dash Installed (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=593476&viewfull=1#post593476)

Brakes:

Brake and Clutch Reservoirs (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568231&viewfull=1#post568231)
Pedal Box and Brake Lines (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568297&viewfull=1#post568297)
Electronic Parking Brake Rear Retrofit Brake Kit (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568554&viewfull=1#post568554)
Brake and Clutch Reservoirs - Mounted (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=571487&viewfull=1#post571487)
Final Pedal Box Installation (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=571502&viewfull=1#post571502)
Reservoir Connections and Brake Bleeding (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=593012&viewfull=1#post593012)

Engine, Transmission, Radiator, Tires, Etc:

Engine and Transmission Package (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568490&viewfull=1#post568490)
Radiator Tunnel (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568292&viewfull=1#post568292)
Tires - The meat has been delivered (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568650&viewfull=1#post568650)
Driveshaft Safety Loop (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=570470&viewfull=1#post570470)
Driveshaft Safety Loop - Panel Fitment Fix (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=571376&viewfull=1#post571376)
Fuel Lines and Gas Tank (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=571977&viewfull=1#post571977)
CDI Box Mounting (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=572930&viewfull=1#post572930)
Accelerator Pedal and Cable Installation (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=573154&viewfull=1#post573154)
Engine Build (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=577947&viewfull=1#post577947)
Engine Dyno (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=577960&viewfull=1#post577960)
Engine Installation (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=592990&viewfull=1#post592990)
Radiator Installation (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=592992&viewfull=1#post592992)
Finished Cooling System (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=592997&viewfull=1#post592997)
Power Steering Completed (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=593005&viewfull=1#post593005)
Transmission Mounting Fix and Shifter Location (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=593008&viewfull=1#post593008)
Throttle Cable Installation (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=593016&viewfull=1#post593016)
Wiper Motor Mounted (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=593955&viewfull=1#post593955)
Air Cleaner Solution (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=604392&viewfull=1#post604392)

wedel456

05-03-2024, 03:48 PM

Table for Contents (part 2):

Electical:

Thought Capsule: Switches, Lighting control, Buttons, etc (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568391&viewfull=1#post568391)
Thought Capsule: Electrical and Main Power (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568540&viewfull=1#post568540)
Thought Capsule: Relays (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568546&viewfull=1#post568546)
LED Lighting (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568560&viewfull=1#post568560)
Ron Francis Mounting (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568607&viewfull=1#post568607)
Starting a Digital Guard Dawg PBS System without Brake Requirement (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568787&viewfull=1#post568787)
Front and Rear Wiring (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=571968&viewfull=1#post571968)

A/C and Heating:

A/C – Heater – Defroster Installation and Mockup of Lines (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568486&viewfull=1#post568486)
A/C and Heater Equipment Final Mounting (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=571964&viewfull=1#post571964)
Finished Heating System (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=593004&viewfull=1#post593004)

Finishing:

Initial Carpet Installation (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=593481&viewfull=1#post593481)
Undercoating, Headliner, and Body Back On (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=594840&viewfull=1#post594840)

wedel456

05-03-2024, 03:50 PM

Preface:
I'm diving headfirst into the world of car building with a Coupe – to start, at least! This journey has been a long time coming, sparked by my teenage days when my sister's boyfriend gifted me a '67 Mustang (too many years ago now to mention). That car, humble as it was (a straight 6 200 CID 3 speed that could not get out of its own way), ignited a love for cars that's been simmering beneath the surface ever since. My dad has since given me his 1971 Chevy C10 short bed with a 350.

Life's been a whirlwind since then—work (I am a technology executive and past Mayor/City Council Member), kids, and personally building my last house took precedence. But a couple of years back, my family and I made the move from California to North Carolina, and now, with a bit more time on my hands, I couldn't resist the temptation of the Spring sale to finally pull the trigger on my Coupe.

Scheduled for kit completion on June 15th, I've got Stewart Transport lined up to oversee the delivery. In the meantime, I've been devouring every Coupe build thread and YouTube video I can find. Shoutout to the legends on this forum like @EdwardB and @P100DHG, and the Cobra Daytona Build on YouTube for the invaluable inspiration and guidance!

I'm hoping to share this experience with my old man, too – fingers crossed for him lending a hand every now and then, passing on his wisdom and getting his hands dirty alongside me.

The Build:

Complete Coupe Kit
Powder Coating Gen 3 Coupe Chassis
Body Cut Outs
Vinyl Roadser Seats (will be selling as I am still selecting my seat options now that Corbeau Evolution X do not appear to fit any more)
IRS
Center Section and Spindles
Carpet Kit – Still determining what sections will be utilized as I plan on wrapping some areas in Vinyl/Leather
Side Windows
Aero Vents
Front and Rear Sway Bars
Wilwood Front and Rear Brakes
GPS Gauges
Wood Steering Wheel – I plan on having matching wood knobs (A/C, Wipers) a la @P100DHG
Halibrand 18" wheels
Windshield wipers (Battery Cut off Switch
Hydrolic Clutch Master Cylinder Kit
351W Install Kit
351W Headers
FF Stainless Side Exhaust
Power Steering
A/C

Engine / Transmission:
Like @P100DHG, my initial thought was to bite the bullet and go with the 5.2 but an Aluminator (not Voodoo). I also looked at the Gen 3 (and now 4) Coyote, too. While I truly do understand the augments for going this path, I just could not get over the old school power, sounds, and smells that come from a push rod engine. After reading through @P100DHG’s build, and listening to his YouTubes, I eventually settled on a:

427 Stroker – 575 HP from Proformance Unlimited (https://www.proformanceunlimited.com/shop/ford-engines/427ci-351w-based-sbf-stroker-engine-575hp/) with Sniper 2 and a TKX

Add-Ons:
Wilwood Electronic E-brake
(https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568554&viewfull=1#post568554)Digital Guard Dog Keyless Ignition (https://www.jegs.com/i/Digital-Guard-Dawg/657/PBSIO/10002/-1)
New Vintage Toggle Switch Panel (https://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerce.com/toggle-switch-panels/)
Lizard Skin Heat and Sound (updated to RattleMat - Thought Capsule: Sound and Head Deadening (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568532&viewfull=1#post568532))
Russ Thompson Turn Signal (http://www.norcal-cobras.com/store/russ_garage/t65/t65tss.html)
LED lighting (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568560&viewfull=1#post568560) upgrades throughout – including adding reverse lights
BRE mirror kit (https://www.brelegacy.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=B&Product_Code=010D01&Category_Code=mirror)
BOIG Cool Tubes (https://www.boigmotorsports.com/products/cooling-tubes)
Rear view mirror backup camera kit – still looking for the one I want to order.

Seats:
Currently looking at Braum ORUE Series (https://braumracing.com/products/orue?variant=40739688317064) -
Anyone have experience with these? They have similar size measurements as the Corbeau Evolution X; however, the head rest is smaller, and I think it will let the seat go back further based upon pictures I have seen on this forum.

korbar

05-04-2024, 09:49 PM

Where in NC are you at, I am a bit north of Charlotte.

wedel456

05-05-2024, 03:31 PM

I am in Marvin. We should connect. PM me if you are interested.

460.465USMC

05-10-2024, 03:33 PM

Welcome aboard, wedel! You spec'd-out a build with some great options. Thanks for the link to the seats you're considering. I deleted the F5 seats from my order, and haven't yet decided what to buy.

I think your 427 stroker should give enough ooomph to put a smile on your face. What are you doing for transmission?

wedel456

05-10-2024, 04:05 PM

Thanks Chris. Getting hard to wait for the kit to arrive. Been following your garage build and prep tread, too. Look forward to seeing your progress.

My father has a red-eye charger and other high HP toys. This build should be a fun one, too.

As for your question: going with the TKX.

wedel456

07-11-2024, 11:16 AM

Delivery:
My complete Coupe kit was completed on June 15th, and Stewart Transport handled the delivery without a hitch - loading the car on the truck on June 21st and Delivery on June 27th. Seeing the truck arrive with my Coupe was an incredible moment. I felt a mixture of anxiousness to see the car and nervousness about what I got myself into. The delivery went off mostly without a hitch, although I had to obtain a trailer the night before due to the busy street I live on, which allowed us to offload the 46 boxes that were delivered. The driver, who was awesome, drove the truck to our driveway to deliver the body/frame and hood. We had to block off a busy country road for 45 minutes. The driver was very helpful and worked with me to offload everything. I could not speak more highly of the delivery process and the driver.

201665

First Impressions:
When I first saw the Coupe, I was in awe. The car is beautiful, full stop. It looks so much better in person, too. This is the first time I have seen one in person and had only online versions to compare it to, and boy, was I surprised at how sexy it is. I was also impressed by the fit and finish of the frame. The welds across the frame look straight and uniform with little spatter. While I will not know more until much later in the process, the body looks great. I did not see any obvious gouging or fiberglass issues.

201667

201668

201669

Inventory:
I had to travel with the family over the 4th of July holiday so the inventory process was delayed a week. Had just enough time to get the car into the garage and the dolly built. The inventory process was much easier than I expected and only took about a 1/2 day complete, even with 46 boxes. I went through every box and counted every part, screw, bolt, etc. I already knew there were a few backordered parts (the biggest one being the rims; however, I will not need those for a while). However, during the inventory process, I found a few items that were missing that were supposed to be there. Again, this will not be major for now, as the only major item is the Ron Francis fuse box and wiring. I will have to ping Factory Five about this oversight (I am sure it will not be an issue).

Car Dolly Build:
I do not have a lift so I decided to build a car dolly, which was slow and steady. It was built out of 2x4s with house framing reinforcements. I used four high-weight rollers, two swivel locking casters in the front, and two non-swiveling ones in the rear. The frame is resting on the jack points in the front and back of the car on all four corners and is restrained with plywood blocking. I need to find some mechanism to ensure the frame does not move on the dolly (probably going to use PVC conduit clamps). The build took about half a day as I had to refine the design a few times to ensure the dolly was strong enough to support the car and parts that are installed before I can drop it on tires. I had to add a few cross braces in the back to ensure the dolly stays together and the wheels do not slide out from underneath it.

201670

wedel456

11-23-2024, 02:36 PM

Hey everyone, just a quick heads-up—there’s going to be a rapid-fire series of updates over the next week! I’ve been putting in a lot of hours on the project since my last post -the summer slipped away as I was hoping to provide an ongoing update. I have put well in to the three figures of hours at this point. Not sure how some are able to do this this quickly.....

One thing I've learned so far is that while Factory Five provides a list of tools necessary to get the Coupe built, there are quite a few others that would be incredibly helpful for those thinking about starting one of these builds. I’ve been busy not only prepping and painting parts but also ordering those extras and additional tools that will make the build process smoother.

(links are the tools I purchased)

If you’re planning on adding any custom panels or brackets (like a drop trunk, engine bay, instrument panel, etc.), I STRONGLY recommend getting a band saw (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08SK9W4Q5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and belt sander (https://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-x-36-in-belt-and-6-in-disc-sander-58339.html). These tools will save you hours and preserve your sanity. This is in addition to what others have mentioned about needing a metal brake (https://www.harborfreight.com/18-inch-bending-brake-39103.html).

I’d also suggest investing in a nice tap and die set (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C393CFLD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1). While I moved away for just doing frame taping and have utilized RivNuts and had to get a tool (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BVB369ZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for that, too And no matter how many clamps you think you'll need—get more. You can never have enough! If you’re as particular about symmetry as I am, make sure you have a nice, long (but not too long) carpenter or T-square. I have a few different sizes, and they’ve all been useful.

The tool I use most—and there are multiple manufacturers out there—is a Kreg Multi-Mark (https://www.amazon.com/KMA2900-Multi-Mark-Multi-Purpose-Marking-Measuring/dp/B003ARSYRG/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3C097FVD83TD2&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.vQbRxz-BEVBwNgDziTBcgT9mdSyhB43BNH4ElKQkvdWCZbNolGo0xmQ7Y tF5ftVqzEMxvMvcruESfG-oEaUnmsYqwX4doiGiwyd5MNyx84D6QwQMBO5ZMcbt3YwgGXhU3 KfQMNpkgIM7dGvhjmlSdXL8vhcyWwvWVsoNbC_5-Kh_aBQ2QnK1MeW8ON2CcTiShRVvIYMMTH0e7NIzAFIxP2amQJX 6jLWEUrr9p-7hZzdLamijBktLO6BTIigh9vOxZ8Yb6vNk2th3oGGT3LBdOnoz-Fj3816jth8kllASJ_k._OxCe9zrRh5CLrWKfc95PRYIpHDUOW6 uP3sTJgI0LZc&dib_tag=se&keywords=kreg+multi+mark&qid=1732390391&s=hi&sprefix=kreg+multi+mark%2Ctools%2C209&sr=1-5). It’s extremely helpful for getting precise measurements. Lastly, I highly recommend a right-angle power driill (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q77T3PT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) (I am a huge fan of Metabo). While many people try to use right-angle adapters, I find them awkward and difficult to use, so a dedicated tool is well worth the investment.

I’ll dive into more details about why these tools have been essential in my next posts. Stay tuned—lots more to come quickly detailing my build to date.

wedel456

11-23-2024, 02:44 PM

Back at the end of July, I began prepping all the parts that will be painted as part of my build. I decided to add a touch of color to the underbody of the Coupe—specifically TCP Global Swift Red (https://www.ebay.com/itm/383593594334). The decision to go with this color was inspired by the idea of giving the underbody a little extra character while still maintaining a clean and professional look.

This marks a significant step for me, as it’s my first venture into painting at this scale. To ensure the best results, I invested in my very first paint gun (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/DVR-802342) for this project. It’s been exciting (and a little intimidating) getting everything ready, but I’m eager to see how it all turns out.

The prep work has been methodical, ensuring each part is cleaned, scuffed, and ready to take the paint evenly. I’ve been taking my time to make sure the finish comes out as close to perfect as I can get it - will provide a little more information on this as I post more about the installation process and what I would do differently. In the end it came out great but I would cut things to make it easier.

Looking forward to sharing how this process unfolds and, of course, the final results! Here is a pic of things drying:

206675

wedel456

11-23-2024, 03:36 PM

I am skipping the obligatory safety wire post - here is the tool I purchased (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z1L2F16/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) - but I will say my fingers are still reeling from this first time experience..... Also, as others have noted, for those doing this the first time, the brake rotor torque specs are in INCH pounds. Had to go down and get another tool (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-1-4-in-Drive-Click-Torque-Wrench/5001994751) at the last minute.

After completing the painting process, I moved on to the suspension and brake installation. The power steering went in without any issues. As others previously mentioned, just make sure that you install the bolts in the right direction, just in case there is an issue in the future and you need to remove them.

Unlike some other builds I’ve read about, the spacing of all the mounting brackets on my kit was perfect—I didn’t have to spread or adjust any of them. The installation went smoothly overall, but one word of advice: double-check that you have the steering arms installed on the correct side. I made that mistake at first, and boy, was it a pain to find the replacement lock nuts and remove the nut (for whatever reason).

Once that was completed, I moved forward with the installation of the front sway bar. Here was the first problem I ran into—same issue that I discovered @RSnake ran into (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmIs5MROv1I), too. Since I painted the sway bar, it required a few washers for the bushings. Once I figured that out, the bar went in great.

As you can see, all the suspension parts have been painted in TCP Global Swift Red (https://www.ebay.com/itm/383593594334), including the shocks, but excluding the hub (where I removed the rear ring) and the steering arms—those were painted with TCP Global Jet Black (https://www.ebay.com/itm/392840266177). For the shocks, I spent time carefully sanding off the existing coating to ensure a smooth surface. I then applied TCP Global Swift Red (https://www.ebay.com/itm/383593594334) and finished with a clear coat for durability and shine. The process turned out great, with only a very small scratch appearing when I installed the threaded tube over the shocks.

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For the tie rod ends, I chose to upgrade to Moog ES2150R (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C59VR6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1), which I found to be a worthwhile improvement (IMO). Additionally, I replaced the boots on the kit-provided ball joints. One of the boots delivered with the kit had a slice in it, so I upgraded them to ensure better durability - choose red to match - Energy Suspension 5.13102R (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CGUIZY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) has the boots for both.

So, here is what I would do differently:

I would not paint the upper control arm, at least not the way I did it. I measured everything out and had the alignment close, as per the instructions; however, I’m sure this will become an issue in the future as the alignment is set fully with the threads showing wear. I also would not paint any of the brackets. This process was a major pain to get just right and, honestly, I’m not sure how well it will hold up over time. If (and hopefully when) I do another build, I would only paint the middle adjustment arm. It would still look great and save a lot of time.

I would not use the kit-provided ball joints. Getting them into the control arm was a massive headache. While I did eventually get them installed and functioning, I would recommend using the Howe Racing 22320S ball joints (https://howeracing.com/products/howe-22320s-precision-ball-joint-screw-in-upper-steel-cap-fits-k772) that others have suggested. They would have saved me time—and many fewer dollars in the swear jar.

Overall I am glad how the paint turned out in the front. Will be interested to see how it holds up. I have been watching the @RSnake videos (https://www.youtube.com/@cobradaytonabuild1671) on YouTube and his car appears to be holding his white very well.

Smiley

11-23-2024, 03:40 PM

It looks good, but I can see where the painted threads might be an issue later on.

wedel456

11-23-2024, 03:52 PM

I wish I had better things to say about the installation of the center section. After painting it with TCP Global Jet Black (https://www.ebay.com/itm/392840266177)and clear coating it, I thought I was ready to tackle the next step. I’d watched @RSnake’s video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ui57P-VlaSM) on the installation multiple times, and it seemed pretty straightforward. I even thought it would be a good idea to get my 14-year-old daughter involved, turning it into a family project. Well, that was a mistake.

No matter how many times I watched the video, I couldn’t quite grasp how @RSnake made it look so easy (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ui57P-VlaSM). It turned out to be way more difficult than I anticipated. I quickly realized that I needed more hands on deck to get this right. So, I had to wait until my two uncles and father were in town for a vacation before I could attempt this again. Even with the four of us working on it, it still took way too long to get everything in place.

After about an hour and a half, and almost giving up a few times, not to mention sweating enough to fill a bucket in the dang southern humidity, we finally got everything aligned correctly and torqued down. It was a frustrating task, and I can only chalk it up to the challenge of aligning and securing the center section properly. But, in the end, we got it done. It was a big lesson in the importance of preparation and having the right team on hand for tough tasks.

I wish I had some words of advice for others attempting this for the first time without fancy lifts or special equipment, but I don’t. Even after reflecting on this experience and writing up this update, I still have no clue why it was so hard with four grown men or why it was such a struggle to get everything aligned properly. My only hope is that your experience goes a lot smoother than mine did. I was so frustrated at the time of installation I failed to take pics; however, here is what it looks like today (apologies for the dust as I have been doing some Bondo (https://www.lowes.com/pd/3M-Bondo-174-High-Bond-Quart/1002653804) sanding (more on this in another post):

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wedel456

11-23-2024, 04:32 PM

Wanted a little change of pace at this point and moved on to some of the custom panels I wanted to make under the hood. I really liked the idea of the @P100DHG build (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?29393-P100DHG-Build-Thread-Gen-3-Coupe-138&p=409139&viewfull=1#post409139) and what @Rsnake did on his build (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=trqhxk1nGZM&t=105s), so I set out to do something that incorporated both of their ideas, with my own twists.

I looked around locally but was unable to find the same Aluminum Sheet 6061 T3 as the Factory Five panels, so I found a good deal at Zoro and purchased what I thought I would need.

My design plan was to cover the top chassis area under the hood with panels (the ones right behind the radiator and in front of the foot boxes on both sides of the car). In addition to that, I really liked the idea of all the reservoirs poking out of them, providing a custom look. The brake and clutch reservoirs will be on the drivers side panel next to the foot box and the power steering and coolant overflow will be on the passenger side next to the radiator tunnel - this will be covered in another post.

My first step was to create templates. Rather than using Ram Board, I used some of my daughter's extra poster board. Once I was happy with the design, I cut them out of the 6061 using my band saw (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08SK9W4Q5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and belt sander (https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/sanders/stationary-belt-disc-sanders/4-in-x-36-in-belt-and-6-in-disc-sander-58339.html) (I cannot speak more highly of these tools as I feel it would have been a much harder job—if not impossible—to complete without them).

Once everything was fitted to the car, I used my Harbor Freight brake (https://www.harborfreight.com/30-inch-bending-brake-67240.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=21905183977&campaignid=21905183977&utm_content=169550070919&adsetid=169550070919&product=67240&store=104&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADAHb4dzh-U-N1TeZcSGVGBlqupQG&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9YDhk7DziQMVckp_AB0N5TxNEAQYASAB EgJU8fD_BwE) to bend the front portion of the covers (the front bar in front of the radiator tunnel). This was not a fun experience. Either I do not know what I am doing (which is a strong possibility), I am not strong enough (again, another possibility), or the 6061 T3 is not meant for this brake. After many attempts to get the bend just right, bingo. As you will see shortly, it looks dang good.

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I then moved on to mounting. My initial thought was to drill, tap (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C393CFLD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1), and use 10-32 polished (more on this in a later post) flange head screws (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Button-Flange-Socket-Head-10-32-Screw-Stainless-p/56000.htm)—in fact, that’s what I did to start. BUT... I did not end up liking that idea and decided to go with aluminum rivnuts instead - decided to use thin wall ribbed low profile (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Ribbed-Rivet-Nut-Aluminium/1600-014.htm) from Albany County Fasteners (no strength needed here just functionality) . To make this easier, I purchased a rivnut installation too (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BVB369ZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)l, which made the process much smoother.

Does not appear that I took a picture at the time I installed the rivnuts (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Ribbed-Rivet-Nut-Aluminium/1600-014.htm); however, here is a more recent pic that shows what it looks like with the panels off:

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For those of you who are looking to do this on your car: I spent many hours on this project. I am nuts about symmetry, so I had lines going across the under-hood area from the driver's to passenger side to ensure the screws were in alignment. I do not have the final panels to show yet, but I can tell you that this time and effort pays off:

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wedel456

11-23-2024, 04:33 PM

It looks good, but I can see where the painted threads might be an issue later on.

100! Looks dang good at this point, though :)

wedel456

11-23-2024, 05:18 PM

I am using the kit-provided clutch and brake reservoirs. (https://www.factoryfiveparts.com/34168-brake-reservoir-components/) In the last post, I mentioned where they were going to be installed—in the panel right in front of the driver's footbox.

For those of you who have these or have installed them previously, you know the provided installation brackets have ears, and you use button head screws to install them vertically. Well, the space in this location wouldn't support that. As such, I decided I needed to make my own bracket. I cut the ears off using my band saw (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08SK9W4Q5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1), sanded them smooth with the belt sander (https://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-x-36-in-belt-and-6-in-disc-sander-58339.html), and purchased 1/8" (I thought 1/16" would be too flimsy, but 1/8" worked well) L-channel from Lowe's (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-1-1-2-in-W-x-1-1-2-in-H-x-8-ft-L-Mill-Finished-Aluminum-Solid-Angle/3058175).

My initial thought was to drill through the Factory Five-provided brackets and then mount them to the L-channel (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-1-1-2-in-W-x-1-1-2-in-H-x-8-ft-L-Mill-Finished-Aluminum-Solid-Angle/3058175) using 1/4" flat screws (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-1-4-in-20-x-1-in-Slotted-Drive-Machine-Screws-4-Count/3035944)and lock nuts (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-1-4-in-Zinc-Plated-Standard-SAE-Nylon-Insert-Lock-Nut/3058721). However, I was concerned that this could result in some movement. Since this was going to be installed through the top panel, I decided to drill and tap the holes—meaning the screw would go through the provided brackets and then be held to the L-channel (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-1-1-2-in-W-x-1-1-2-in-H-x-8-ft-L-Mill-Finished-Aluminum-Solid-Angle/3058175) with a lock nut.

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After this, I used the band saw to eliminate the material required for the reservoirs to be installed on the L-channel (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-1-1-2-in-W-x-1-1-2-in-H-x-8-ft-L-Mill-Finished-Aluminum-Solid-Angle/3058175), and cleaned that up with the belt sander (https://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-x-36-in-belt-and-6-in-disc-sander-58339.html) (don't have a picture with it done but here is the pre completed picture to illustrate):

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You’ll notice that the spacing on the bracket isn’t consistent. This was intentional to make it obvious which is for the front and rear brakes and which is for the clutch.

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I then determined where the reservoirs and bracket would mount and drilled holes for future 3/8" rivet (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/product-display.html?Product_Code=11950050) mounting. Make sure there’s enough room to get a drill bit and rivet tool in there. Also, ensure the bracket is installed low enough to allow for engine vibration, even when it's in place.

Once held in with Clecos (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08VRZV7JZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1), I used a 2.5" hole drill bit to drill through a piece of 3/4" plywood. I then used the round piece of plywood as a guide by placing it into each reservoir mounting bracket and drilling a pilot hole through the top panel. Once the pilot hole was completed, I used the same hole cutting bit to drill the hole large enough for the reservoirs to poke through the panel. It came out AWESOME! - obviously they will be installed level but will work on that during the final installation process:

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My original plan was to do a round-over punch, but the holes were too close together for that to work. I’m thinking about using some sort of ring around them—possibly stainless or something similar—but have been unable to find something that works. Suggestions would be greatly appreciated! For now, check this box as done.

PNWTim

11-23-2024, 07:31 PM

Looks good! If you don't want to use a stainless ring which may be very difficult to find without fabbing it you could probably find the right sized nitrile o-ring, slice the outside edge and place it in there for a finished look.

Namrups

11-23-2024, 11:39 PM

burchfieldb

11-24-2024, 07:46 AM

I am using the kit-provided clutch and brake reservoirs. (https://www.factoryfiveparts.com/34168-brake-reservoir-components/) In the last post, I mentioned where they were going to be installed—in the panel right in front of the driver's footbox.

For those of you who have these or have installed them previously, you know the provided installation brackets have ears, and you use button head screws to install them vertically. Well, the space in this location wouldn't support that. As such, I decided I needed to make my own bracket. I cut the ears off using my band saw (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08SK9W4Q5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1), sanded them smooth with the bench sander (https://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-x-36-in-belt-and-6-in-disc-sander-58339.html), and purchased 1/8" (I thought 1/16" would be too flimsy, but 1/8" worked well) L-channel from Lowe's (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-1-1-2-in-W-x-1-1-2-in-H-x-8-ft-L-Mill-Finished-Aluminum-Solid-Angle/3058175).

My initial thought was to drill through the Factory Five-provided brackets and then mount them to the L-channel using 1/4" flathead screws and lock nuts. However, I was concerned that this could result in some movement. Since this was going to be installed through the top panel, I decided to drill and tap the holes—meaning the screw would go through the provided brackets and then be held to the L-channel with a lock nut.

206683

After this, I used the band saw to eliminate the material required for the reservoirs to be installed on the L-channel, and cleaned that up with the bench sander (https://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-x-36-in-belt-and-6-in-disc-sander-58339.html) (don't have a picture with it done but here is the pre completed picture to illustrate):

206686

You’ll notice that the spacing on the brackets isn’t consistent. This was intentional to make it obvious which is for the front and rear brakes and which is for the clutch.

206684

I then determined where the reservoirs and bracket would mount and drilled holes for future 3/8" rivet mounting. Make sure there’s enough room to get a drill bit and rivet tool in there. Also, ensure the bracket is installed low enough to allow for engine vibration, even when it's in place.

Once held in with Clecos, I used a 2.5" hole drill bit to drill through a piece of 3/4" plywood. I then used the round piece of plywood as a guide by placing it into each reservoir mounting bracket and drilling a pilot hole through the top panel. Once the pilot hole was completed, I used the same hole cutting bit to drill the hole large enough for the reservoirs to poke through the panel. It came out AWESOME! - obviously they will be installed level but will work on that during the final installation process:

206685

My original plan was to do a round-over punch, but the holes were too close together for that to work. I’m thinking about using some sort of ring around them—possibly stainless or something similar—but have been unable to find something that works. Suggestions would be greatly appreciated! For now, check this box as done.

I ended up machining a trim ring for mine.

206728206729

I liked your mounting solution, that was a bit of a challenge.

burchfieldb

11-24-2024, 07:49 AM

wedel456

11-24-2024, 09:16 AM

Next, I moved on to the power steering and coolant reservoir mounting. As I discussed in a previous post, I planned on placing them on the passenger side in the area next to the radiator tunnel, poking out through the panel above.

This step presented some unique challenges due to the height of the Factory Five coolant reservoir, the overhang of the radiator tunnel duct upper piece, and the design of the front right wheel splash guard. The Factory Five coolant reservoir is very tall and doesn't lend itself to many placement options that are hidden to the greatest extent possible.

I ended up installing the coolant reservoir as far to the driver’s side as possible without it hitting either side of the frame. This was the only location where the bottom of the reservoir cleared all brackets and the frame. It also had to be aligned just right for the fittings at the bottom to function properly. I created a mounting bracket with the same 1/8-inch L-channel from Lowe’s (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-1-1-2-in-W-x-1-1-2-in-H-x-8-ft-L-Mill-Finished-Aluminum-Solid-Angle/3058175) but had to mount it to the bottom of the 1" frame—this is due to the space limitations noted above—and it will be connected to the frame using SS 3/16 rivets (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/product-display.html?Product_Code=11950050). No need to cut the ears off the provided chrome bracket for the unit.

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*Temp screws for the bracket attachment are being utilized. Have not decided what to use as of yet.

Originally, I thought some space between the two reservoirs would look and function better. As such, I installed the power steering reservoir away from the coolant reservoir. However, once I did this and looked at the front passenger splash guard, I realized that the bottom of the power steering reservoir would hit the panel. No bueno:

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To fix this, I moved the mounting location closer to the coolant reservoir and modified the L-channel (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-1-1-2-in-W-x-1-1-2-in-H-x-8-ft-L-Mill-Finished-Aluminum-Solid-Angle/3058175) bracket and filled the previous holes in the frame with JB Weld (https://www.lowes.com/pd/J-B-WELD-10-oz-Pro-Size-Gray-Epoxy-Adhesive-Tube-2-Part-Cold-Weld-System-for-Multi-Use-Projects-Waterproof-Heat-Resistant-Sandable/5001749323)(will add a little paint when doing final assembly). There was just enough room between the two to drill holes and just enough clearance below to fit both units. It took some fine-tuning, but the reservoirs now fit snugly and function as intended and provide enough spacing to poke two holes through the top panel.

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I then used the same 2.5" hole technique to poke the reservoirs through the top panel. I couldn’t be happier with the look. Please note: the black power steering reservoir is a temporary unit provided by my engine builder. The permanent one will be chrome to match and will be delivered with the engine.

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For now, project completed.

wedel456

11-24-2024, 09:17 AM

If you have to pull the rear diff out again, an engine hoist and ratchet straps works well. I had to do it several times with mine, since the pinion angle was pointed down to the floor. It was still a pain as you experienced.

Yeah, thought of that; however, I do not have an engine hoist. Funny, no matter how much garage space you have, you never have enough..... Just do not have the storage space.

wedel456

11-24-2024, 09:41 AM

After finishing the panel creation, I returned to installing the suspension components. I’ll spare everyone the usual step-by-step details of spindle modifications, but yes, I did cut off the ear as directed and drilled the necessary hole larger. I also took some extra time to grind down the casting lines on the spindles. Zero percent of people will ever notice this detail, but I couldn’t leave it alone—it just had to be clean. The effort paid off, and I’m really happy with how it turned out.

As with the front suspension, I painted all the rear suspension parts in TCP Global Swift Red (https://www.ebay.com/itm/383593594334), keeping the visual theme consistent. The spindles and CV axles, however, were painted in TCP Global Jet Black (https://www.ebay.com/itm/392840266177) for contrast. The combination looks incredible and will tie in perfectly with the overall aesthetic I’m going for.

Unlike my luck with the front mounting brackets, I did run into spacing problems with the mounting brackets. Almost all of them were either too close together and/or the mounting holes were slightly out of alignment. To address this, I used the threaded rod (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-1-2-in-dia-x-1-ft-L-Coarse-Steel-Threaded-Rod/3128771), washer (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-1-Count-0-531-in-x-Hot-Dipped-Galvanized-Standard-SAE-Flat-Washer/3036837), and nut (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-1-2-in-x-13-Galvanized-Steel-Hex-Nut/3037536) technique recommended by others, along with a metal file to adjust the hole locations as needed. Once the alignment issues were resolved, everything went in smoothly.

For the CV axles, I initially struggled to get them to seat correctly. I watched @RSnake’s video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8d45q9NIZk) on YouTube, where he suggested using a piece of wood pressed against the back of the CV at the center section to avoid damaging the boot. While that seemed like a good idea, I decided to stick with the manual’s instructions and used a soft-blow hammer instead. With that, the axles went in without further issues.

Once everything was seated, I torqued all the bolts down and moved on to installing the brakes and calipers. The process was straightforward, and overall, this step went smoothly.

As you’ll see in the picture below, I’m using a 1" wheel spacer (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B095R22VD3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1)recommended by @EdwardB. This adjustment ensures proper alignment and spacing for the wheels. Additionally, and more on this later, you’ll notice that I did not install the e-brake. I’ll be using an alternative solution (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568554&viewfull=1#post568554) rather than the kit-provided setup.

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wedel456

11-24-2024, 10:38 AM

Next, I dove into the fitment of the radiator tunnel, which turned out to be an interesting step in the process. First suggestion: GET MORE CLECOS (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08VRZV7JZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)! Seriously, you can never have enough. If you think you have enough, get more—trust me on this one.

I started by mounting the panels and drilling the hole locations into the frame. A quick note for anyone tackling this for the first time: don’t panic when you notice gaps between the frame and the radiator duct sides at the top. I spent more time than I’d like to admit flipping back and forth between the manual and online pictures just to confirm that this was normal. It took a while for me to feel confident about moving forward.

For this stage, I decided to use the Breeze Fan Shroud kit (https://breezeautomotive.com/shop/radiator-shroud-kit-for-gen-3-coupe/), which has been widely recommended on the forums. However, if you plan to move forward with the Breeze addition, here’s something you need to know: the shroud is slightly larger than the radiator itself. This creates a challenge when mounting the unit, as there isn’t enough "meat" on either the shroud or radiator to drill and mount the top and bottom edges directly. To complicate matters, the radiator almost rests against the back of the radiator duct, which prevents the shroud from sitting any lower.

After reviewing other forum posts, I identified two options:

Cut the shroud to fit the drilling areas at the top and bottom
Create a mounting piece at the top that sandwiches the shroud to the radiator.

I decided to go with option 2. Here's how I tackled it:

I drilled the holes at the bottom of the radiator shroud and the radiator, then installed 10-32 Rivnuts (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Ribbed-Rivet-Nut-Aluminium/1600-020.htm?v_code=1600-020-002) in the radiator for mounting. (I’ll be using stainless steel flange-head screws (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Button-Flange-Socket-Head-10-32-Screw-Stainless-p/56000.htm) for this.). For the top mounting, I fabricated a piece of 6061 T3 aluminum cut to the width of the shroud and about 3/4" in height. This piece sandwiches the shroud to the radiator and is secured with polished SS 1/8 rivets (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/product-display.html?Product_Code=11930018). Unfortunately, I don’t have pictures of the top mounting bracket yet, but I’ll document this fully as part of the final install and link it back for reference (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=592992&viewfull=1#post592992) (I used @EdwardsB tequnique found here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-5-000-Mile-Report&p=319895&viewfull=1#post319895)).

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This solution worked well and provided a solid fit. If you’re planning on using the Breeze kit (https://breezeautomotive.com/shop/radiator-shroud-kit-for-gen-3-coupe/), be prepared for this extra step to ensure a proper installation.

For the actual mounting bracket from the radiator, I also decided to utilize some heavy duty 5/16 rivnuts (https://www.mcmaster.com/92982A210/) along with 5/16 SS button head screws (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/product-display.html?Product_Code=17020) and washers (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/product-display.html?Product_Code=1000-105152) rather than the bolt through and nylon lock nuts. Project completed:

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wedel456

11-24-2024, 11:28 AM

I started with the pedal box mockup. My intention wasn’t to leave the pedals in place during the build, knowing they would get in the way for other tasks. Instead, I mocked them up initially to make sure everything was aligned correctly, which also allowed me to run my brake lines.

However, I ran into an issue with the pedal box installation. The top mount bracket for the pedal box didn’t fit properly at all. After reviewing the bracket and comparing it to others’ setups, I noticed the hole and bend alignment was off. The bracket wouldn’t sit flat on the pedal box and the crossbar, which also prevented the pedal box from sitting flat.

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After reaching out to Factory Five Tech Support, they assured me it wasn’t a problem and suggested drilling through the bracket even if the pedals were a little out of alignment. I just couldn’t let that go, so I decided to address the issue myself. I created my own support bracket out of 1.5-inch, 1/8-inch thick L-channel aluminum (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-1-1-2-in-W-x-1-1-2-in-H-x-8-ft-L-Mill-Finished-Aluminum-Solid-Angle/3058175). After drilling the holes, I painted it black to match the other components. This new bracket only captures two of the holes, but based on my discussions with Factory Five Tech Support, I was assured that since this is a support bracket, it wouldn't be an issue.

Moving on to the master cylinder installation, I followed advice from the @Rsnake video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m2X8UrliYLQ&t=29s) and opted to replace the kit-provided equipment with a 5/8" master cylinder (part number: 260-10371 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-10371?rrec=true)).

My goal here was to have the brake lines disappear, to the greatest extent possible. As such:
I decided not to use stainless steel here and just used normal Poly-Armour PVF Steel Brake Lines (https://www.agscompany.com/products/poly-armour-pvf-steel-brake-line-tubing-coil?_pos=3&_sid=6e35c53a3&_ss=r) in black (again to disappear). However, after getting these, much like the kit-provided lines, they have a different definition of black than I do. After I bent all the lines, I put down a coat of TCP Global Jet Black (https://www.ebay.com/itm/392840266177) and Clear (I know, WAY overkill). AGS Steel Tube Nuts (https://www.agscompany.com/products/steel-tube-nut-3-16-3-8-24-inverted?_pos=3&_sid=b656b918a&_ss=r) in black Black anodized 3/16 P-clamps (https://www.racetronix.biz/p/p-clamp-aluminum-3-16-8-32-black/pcl-03) from Ractronix and replaced the included 8-32 SS screw with a black stainless (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Phillips-Flat-Head-Screw-8-32-Black-Oxide-Stainles-p/1016-75000000.htm?v_code=1016-75000000-026).

I will also end up panting all the brackets the TCP Global Jet Black (https://www.ebay.com/itm/392840266177). I tried to find the brake line Ts in black but could not find any so I am using the provide brass ones. Looks great IMHO.

Now that the pedal box was in place, it was time for the brake lines. I followed much of @EdwardB’s path (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-5-000-Mile-Report&p=315113&viewfull=1#post315113) for the brake line routing. The front lines come out the engine side of the driver’s side foot box (rather than the outside) and run under the frame. From there, I followed the same path as @EdwardB (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-5-000-Mile-Report&p=315113&viewfull=1#post315113)across the bottom and up to the passenger side.

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For the rear, the line runs through the very top of the driver’s side transmission cockpit panel (I cut a hole there for both the clutch and brake lines). The line then follows the driver’s side of the transmission tunnel and exits out to the back. I wasn’t satisfied with any of the mounting solutions for the rear lines, so I created my own mounting brackets out of L-channel aluminum (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-1-1-2-in-W-x-1-1-2-in-H-x-8-ft-L-Mill-Finished-Aluminum-Solid-Angle/3058175). I added P-clamps (https://www.racetronix.biz/p/p-clamp-aluminum-3-16-8-32-black/pcl-03) to the brackets using the 8-32 SS Black Screws (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Phillips-Flat-Head-Screw-8-32-Black-Oxide-Stainles-p/1016-75000000.htm?v_code=1016-75000000-026) and nuts (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Hex-Machine-Nuts-Black-Oxide-18-8-Stainless-Steel-p/12300000.htm?v_code=12300038) (thinking about a different solution for this) and ran the lines out of the corners. I did not take enough pictures at the time but here is a combo of the initial install and what it looks like today:

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Overall, very happy with how everything came out.

wedel456

11-24-2024, 07:01 PM

Before moving on to the fuel lines, I needed to create a custom panel to mount the bulkhead fittings. While doing so, I also wanted to conclude the custom panels for the build. This includes panels in the passenger and driver side footwells and the outside cockpit walls, right above where the exhaust will be placed.

First, I started with the panel for the fuel lines. I copied much of what others have done, including @EdwardB (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-5-000-Mile-Report&p=334490&viewfull=1#post334490), and created a panel to cover the area where the fuel lines enter the car. This provided a clean, organized look, and everything fit well.

I also created a template out of cardboard for the middle space in the engine bay to cover up the opening to the transmission tunnel (not sure how, but I took zero pictures of this... I will post pictures later during the final mockup). Once the template was done, I lined everything up and drilled the holes in the panel that were not exactly centered. I know it will be blocked by the engine, and no one would ever notice I had to redo the panel. Luckily, I did not drill the holes at that point. Once that was completed (correctly this time), I drilled the holes and then lined up and drilled the holes from the bulkhead fittings. Do not have a picture (for what ever reason) of what this looked like at the time. Will attach this to the frame using polished stainless steel rivets (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/product-display.html?Product_Code=11930082), but this will be covered in a future post. Will post pictures of the final product during final assembly of the engine bay and link it here.

Next, I moved on to the inside panels. I was really inspired by the @P100DHG (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?29393-P100DHG-Build-Thread-Gen-3-Coupe-138&p=385481&viewfull=1#post385481) build. He created custom panels for the inside footwells that were avant-garde, but I decided to go in a slightly different direction. Using the same cardboard, I created footwell templates and then cut out the design using sheet metal (https://www.lowes.com/pd/IMPERIAL-24-in-x-3-ft-Galvanized-Steel-Sheet-Metal/3234805) that I had laying around from a home A/C project—no need for thicker panels, as these will be purely visual.

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For the driver's side, the panels will mount using 10-32 rivnuts (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Ribbed-Rivet-Nut-Aluminium/1600-020.htm?v_code=1600-020-002) and screws (I’ll decide on the color once everything is done) at the bottom. Above the panels, I’ll connect them using 3M double-sided tape. I had thought of using a tapped hole or something else, but there is VERY little space between this custom panel and the other side footwell cover, so I opted for this solution.

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*will fill the holes at the top with JB Weld (https://www.lowes.com/pd/J-B-WELD-10-oz-Pro-Size-Gray-Epoxy-Adhesive-Tube-2-Part-Cold-Weld-System-for-Multi-Use-Projects-Waterproof-Heat-Resistant-Sandable/5001749323)prior to covering

For the passenger side, I did not run the panel the entire height of the footwell for two reasons:

You will never be able to see above the heater coil I wanted to be able to remove the panel in the future if needed and take it out by pulling it through the cockpit.

I attached the panel using 10-32 rivnuts (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Ribbed-Rivet-Nut-Aluminium/1600-020.htm?v_code=1600-020-002) and screws (again, I’ll decide on the color once everything is done) and had to create some brackets in the back to support the panel. The brackets were made out of L-channel aluminum (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-1-1-2-in-W-x-1-1-2-in-H-x-8-ft-L-Mill-Finished-Aluminum-Solid-Angle/3058175) and installed with 1/8 rivets. No need to paint the brackets, as they will never be seen once the panel is installed.

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The last interior panel I wanted to work on is something I am surprised I have not seen in other builds. It’s the area in the driver's side footwell under the dash area. This is the space where you can see through to where the pedal box is located, and most people place the Ron Francis harness there. I’ve just always thought that looks a little messy, so I decided to create a panel to cover that location. After templating, I cut a hole for the steering passthrough and cut out the upper right-hand corner to allow for all electrical lines to run (more on this in a future post). I attached the panel using 10-32 rivnuts (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Ribbed-Rivet-Nut-Aluminium/1600-020.htm?v_code=1600-020-002)(again, I’ll need to decide on the color once everything is done).

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*excuse the wring mess. This is what it looks like today as I am just starting wiring.

I will be covering all of these panels using the same material that I use to cover the dash (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568549&viewfull=1#post568549). This will be something that matches the seats (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568368&viewfull=1#post568368) I plan to use.

Lastly, I spent some time making a carboard template of the areas outside the cockpit wall above the exhaust. This is in hopes of cutting down on the sound and heat as I will be installing sound and heat deadening on the back. These panels were made of 6061 T3 .04 aluminum and were drilled into the frame and will be attached by aluminum 1/8 rivets (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/product-display.html?Product_Code=11930018). Eventually the panels were powered coated (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568368&viewfull=1#post568368), too. I did not take pictures on this; however, he is a reference location from @EdwardB's build page (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-5-000-Mile-Report&p=405723&viewfull=1#post405723) - I will show pictures on the final install:

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wedel456

11-25-2024, 09:54 AM

Panel Finishing:

Now that all the custom panels are completed, I set my mind to how panels would be covered. My initial thoughts were to paint all the panels. For the under-bonnet areas, I planned to do a good DA sanding and then clear coat them, following the process @RSnake used (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NXyaveZKBBE)on some of his panels. For the black panels, I originally planned to use TCP Global Jet Black (https://www.ebay.com/itm/392840266177). I wasn’t overly concerned about the look of the black panels since half would be covered with heat and sound deadening and carpet, and the other half would be underneath the car. However, as I considered the sheer number of hours required to make these painted finishes look professional, I started to explore powder coating as an alternative.

I got recommendations for powder coating shops in my area (recently moved to North Carolina from California) and was impressed by Pro Dimensions (https://www.facebook.com/ProDimensionPowdercoating/) in Locust, NC. I decided to work with them and would 100% use them again - will post the finished product in another update.

With that decision made, I focused on the color for the coating. I really liked the anodized look that @P100DHG (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?29393-P100DHG-Build-Thread-Gen-3-Coupe-138&p=435763&viewfull=1#post435763) used. I was about to choose that option for the under-bonnet areas and black for everywhere else when my dad convinced me to stick with black to let the engine be the star. I followed his advice and moved forward with an all black powder coat.

Seat Selection:

For the seats, based on @Edwardb’s recommendation (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-5-000-Mile-Report&p=309365&viewfull=1#post309365) (and others on the forum), I originally planned to go with Corbeau Evolution X (https://corbeau.com/racing-seats/evolution-x/) seats. HOWEVER, after seeing reports on the forum (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48829-Corbeau-Evolution-X-seat-fitment&highlight=evolution) about potential changes in the seat fitment, somewhat confirmed by @Edwardb (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48829-Corbeau-Evolution-X-seat-fitment&p=553592&viewfull=1#post553592), I explored other options. I couldn’t find anyone using Braum Orue seats (https://braumracing.com/products/orue), but the dimensions seemed similar, and the headrest design looked like it would fit better due to its smaller size. I really liked the black-and-white color scheme, which aligns perfectly with my planned body color (more on that later).

My biggest concern was not finding anyone who had used these seats until @JimStone (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48924-Project-Deimos-An-LS-Coupe-Build-Anyone-use-a-Weize-AGM-battery-before&highlight=jimstone) started his build. After seeing his fitment and fixes (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48924-Project-Deimos-An-LS-Coupe-Build-Anyone-use-a-Weize-AGM-battery-before&p=565586&viewfull=1#post565586) (I’m a little over 6' tall, so this could have been an issue), I pulled the trigger on the White Leatherette | Diamond | Black Trim - (BRR6-WDBS) (https://www.amazon.com/Braum-Leatherette-Racing-Stitching-BRR6-WDBS/dp/B0843QXBM5). The seats look awesome, fit the body nicely, and perfectly align with the vision for my build.

Upholstery:

Now that the seats and seat color have been selected, I needed to decide what other elements should match the seats. The dash is an obvious choice (more on the customizations there in another post), as well as the three panels covered in my last post ("More Custom Panels (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568339&viewfull=1#post568339)")—under the dash and in the driver’s and passenger’s footwells. All of these will be covered in black vinyl to match the seats. Initially, I considered using material available through Braum (https://braumracing.com/products/black-leatherette-material); however, my upholsterer recommended against it, saying it wouldn’t work well with the dash or look right. Instead, he proposed another option we’ll finalize when I drop off the pieces for finishing.

In another post, I’ll document what I did for the switch panel under the dash. It will also be covered in the same material. None of these panels will use foam backing material, particularly the dash and switch panel, to maintain a clean look. I wanted to avoid the challenge of frenching the foam material with the gauges, switches, A/C vents (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/VTA-499194), etc. (I’ll do a dedicated post on the dash later.)

The last two panels I wanted to cover were the transmission covers—front and rear (the driver’s half cover will be carpeted). These panels will use the same material as the other custom pieces but will include foam backing underneath. This addition provides a soft, cushioned surface for resting an elbow, enhancing comfort and style. This decision brought up a whole other issue that I will discuss in my post about sound / heat deadening.

wedel456

11-25-2024, 10:33 AM

My plan for the instrument panel was a long journey. I scoured the forums for inspiration, looking through the incredible solutions others have completed. I knew two things off the bat:

A full customization was not within my scope, my abilities, or preferences. I wanted to use the kit-provided dash with a clean solid, non-race-car aesthetic that leaned toward a finished “OE” look.

Building off this, here’s the direction I’m heading:

Dash Top and Front - I will cover both in vinyl without padding and will not include the traditional brow (See last post (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568368&viewfull=1#post568368) for reasoning).
Hidden Mounting and Instrument Panel Idea - There will be no visible rivets or screws holding the dash in place. Instead, I’ll use @EdwardB’s (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=321791&viewfull=1#post321791) hidden mounting method for a seamless look. The will be no separate instrument panel as it will be moulded into the front of the dash as one piece.
Switch Panel - Like the dash, it will be covered in vinyl but without padding for a consistent appearance. Single port USB stations (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0DGTHCNTW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)will be installed on each side of the panel.
Transmission Covers - Both the front and rear transmission covers will be removable, though the front cover will pose challenges during the electrical phase (more on that in a future post). Both will be covered with vinyl and padding.
Turn Signal and High/Low Beams - I’m installing a Russ Thompson turn signal (http://www.norcal-cobras.com/store/russ_garage/t65/t65tss.html), repurposing the stock switch for high/low beam functionality, managed via an IDidIt module (https://www.jegs.com/i/Ididit/535/3100006040/10002/-1).
Horn - The horn button (https://bpnorthwest.com/austin-healey/switch-starter-button/) will be integrated into the instrument cluster for a streamlined design.
Toggle Switch Panel - I will be using a New Vintage USA Toggle Switch Panel (https://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerce.com/toggle-switch-panels/) (inspired by @Rsnake’s build), which will be mounted in the main dash area. I will not be using any of the FF kit provided switches (but for some of the A/C controls) in this build.
Light Switch - The light switch will be mounted to the right of the toggle switch in the main dash area.
Courtesy Lights - Courtesy lights will be installed on the underside of the dash corners and controlled by the headlight switch knob.
A/C Vents - A/C vents will be installed on the front of the dash—two on the outside and two in the middle of the dash above the switch panel. I am not sure why but there really are no good upgrade options here. I wanted to have ones that were metal looking and not complete flimsy plastic but all those options are ultra expensive (https://restomodair.com/product-category/aftermarket-ac-vents/). I did find some inexpensive Vintage Air (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/VTA-499194) louvers with chrome on this; however, I attempted multiple orders and the "chrome" came with blemishes each time (three different orders). I eventually went with two additional units from Vintage Air (https://www.jegs.com/i/Vintage-Air/960/499193/10002/-1) that matched the FF provided vents that are all black and no chrome.
A/C and Ignition Switch - My initial thought was to do something similar to what @P100DHG completed in his build and mount them in the transmission cover. However, once I looked at it, I wasn’t sure it would be comfortable with my arm resting in that area. It also became apparent that with all the electronics I needed to fit under the dash, a center switch panel would be necessary to close up that area from wandering eyes. So, the decision was made to put everything there. I will not be using the FF-provided panel for the A/C controls in the front of the switch panel (will cover this in the build post for the panel itself).
Ignition Switch - I will be installing a PBS Digital Guard Dawg (https://www.jegs.com/i/Digital-Guard-Dawg/657/PBSIO/10002/-1) unit for "security" and ignition functionality.
Clock - I purchased a clock (https://speedhut.com/gauge-applications/revolution-racing-performance/led-lighting/performance-led-clock/2-5-8-clock/?dd-link=0lduumusytj) from Speedhut, which will be installed on the front of the dash in front of the passenger.
Additional Lights:

E-brake Warning Light - A light will be installed to indicate when the e-brake is engaged (more details on this in a future post (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568554&viewfull=1#post568554)).
Fan Running Light - Another light will signal when the fan is running.

Master Disconnect - The disconnect (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/RFW-MS1) will be installed in a similar location to @EdwardB (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-5-000-Mile-Report&p=346901&viewfull=1#post346901). I didn't really like any of my other options and did not want to go with something electric. I liked the idea and look of something physical.

JimStone

11-25-2024, 10:56 AM

Great choice on the Braum Orue seats! They're not SFI rated, but that doesn't bother me. May for some.

Does take a little bit of trimming the reclining lever if you want to mount it back as far as possible, but it's not bad. And if you're considering sliders, you'll likely only get an inch or two of movement because the seats squeeze in there. The way the transmission tunnel flares out for the bellhousing limits travel room.

wedel456

11-25-2024, 11:26 AM

I started the dash development process by doing a lot of measuring and laying out my thoughts with a pen. Ensuring that everything was aligned perfectly in the middle of the car was a top priority for me, and it took time to get everything just right.

Being the kind of person who is very particular about aesthetics, I find it difficult to ignore the small details. When something isn’t aligned, it draws my attention, so I wanted to ensure everything would be flawless. This meant taking the extra time to make sure the A/C vents (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/VTA-499194)were perfectly aligned with one another, and that they lined up with the gauges. The switch panel also had to be perfectly centered on the dash, which in turn needed to align with the lower gauges.

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This attention to detail led to many hours of careful measurement, realignment, and multiple revisions to get everything to a place where I was satisfied with the visual flow. It’s one of those things that might not be noticed immediately, but when done correctly, it makes all the difference.

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Once I was confident in the measurements, I moved on to cutting. For the A/C vents (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/VTA-499194), I used the appropriate size hole saw, while for the switch panel, I used a grinder (https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&source=web&cd=&ved=0CF0Qj_IEahcKEwjQj9DayPqJAxUAAAAAHQAAAAAQBQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.lowes.com%2Fpd%2FMetabo-HPT-4-5-in-18-volt-Sliding-Switch-Cordless-Angle-Grinder-Charger-Not-Incldued%2F5013490915%3Fuser%3Dshopping%26feed%3Dy es%26srsltid%3DAfmBOorwlp6W9Y27Gf-vX-LcIpZiGyT5Wdto0mqMBoslZGCAflzrOW-2qYE%26gQT%3D1&psig=AOvVaw33S7lXzQGNvbW9gCNUHFjI&ust=1732730079075941&opi=89978449). The Toggle Switch Panel (https://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerce.com/toggle-switch-panels/) came with 8-32 screws and nuts to mount to the back, but I decided to take it a step further by creating a custom mounting bracket. This bracket will use 8-32 rivnuts (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0983SW1K8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) in the back for a more secure and tailored installation.

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For the instrument panel, my plan was to have one solid dash. To make this happened I needed to find a way to perm connect the instrument panel to the dash. To accomplish this, I took the FF provided instrument panel and cut it to size to fit behind the dash using the pre-drilled default mounting location. Then I cut a matching panel out of 6061 T3 aluminum and placed it on top of that piece. This was needed to:

Ensure that the panel was aligned 100 percent correctly in the instrument panel hole. This is a major reason why I used the FF provided piece was it ensured alignment.
Provide the necessary backing required to attach my panel to the dash as there was no easy way to put a panel in place without backing material or welding (which I am not equipped, or talented enough, to accomplish).

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I then used the holes in the FF-provided panel as a template to cut the exact same hole sizes for the instruments from behind. I did leave the cutout for the steering shaft so I could get that as close as possible for a finished look once that is installed. I then cut out two holes for the previously discussed fan and e-brake lights. I decided to use the Small Chrome Low Profile LED Indicators from Watson Streetworks. Red for the E-brake (installed between the tach and speedo) and green for the fan installed between the two gauges on the right. Also, you can see the holes for the horn (bottom right of the instrument cluster) and the light switch to the right of the switch panel (https://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerce.com/toggle-switch-panels/) (where the square opening is located).

I eventually cut the hole for the clock (https://speedhut.com/gauge-applications/revolution-racing-performance/led-lighting/performance-led-clock/2-5-8-clock/?dd-link=0lduumusytj) and installed the steering wheel. Unfortunately, I don’t have any pictures documenting this process (another failure on my part), but here is a finalized version of what the instrument panel looks like today. You get to see the switch panel below, which I will cover in another post coming up, too.

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To attach the dash, I utilized the same trick as @EdwardB (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-5-000-Mile-Report&p=322556&viewfull=1#post322556). The dash will be connected to the cross bar that the dash sits on using L Channel (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-1-1-2-in-W-x-1-1-2-in-H-x-8-ft-L-Mill-Finished-Aluminum-Solid-Angle/3058175)and 6-32 flat screws (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/product-display.html?Product_Code=1700072) and lock nuts (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/product-display.html?Product_Code=1102-081-0092) on the front, and 10-32 flange heads (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Button-Flange-Socket-Head-10-32-Screw-Stainless-p/56000.htm) and 10-32 rivnuts (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Ribbed-Rivet-Nut-Aluminium/1600-014.htm) into the cross bar. I will be able to access the screws by removing the A/C vents (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/VTA-499194).

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wedel456

11-25-2024, 12:03 PM

I will get into more of this when I discuss my electrical plans; however, I have a background in technology and home automation, having wired and automated my previous house to be controlled via my cell phone. With that experience, I plan to add some modern features to the car, but without compromising its vintage appeal. I’ll dive deeper into the electrical details in a later post, but for now, I want to share my thoughts on how the car will be controlled.

As previously discussed, I will be utilizing the PBS-1 from Digital Guard Dawg (https://www.jegs.com/i/Digital-Guard-Dawg/657/PBSIO/10002/-1). As such, the FF-provided ignition switch will be thrown into the extra parts bin. The start button will be installed in the Switch Panel, which will be discussed in a later post.
I will be installing A/C and the heater in the car. At a minimum, I will be utilizing the two toggle switches provided in the kit. The A/C on/off switch does not match the rest of the car, so I need to find something that fits better. These switches, along with the heater control, will be installed in the switch panel.
The horn, as previously mentioned, will be installed in the instrument panel. I opted for a more period-correct horn (https://bpnorthwest.com/austin-healey/switch-starter-button/) button for this.
I will be using the FF-provided light switch. As shown above, the switch is installed to the right of the toggle switch panel (https://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerce.com/toggle-switch-panels/) and will control the lights and courtesy lights.
For the Toggle Switch panel (https://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerce.com/toggle-switch-panels/), there are five switches, arranged from right to left:

Wipers (DPDT) – will use the @P100DHG (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?29393-P100DHG-Build-Thread-Gen-3-Coupe-138&p=431651&viewfull=1#post431651) documented solution.
Fog (SPST) – these run through a relay and can only be turned on when the headlights are on.
Hazard (DPST) - Function the same as the FF provided solution.
Fan (SPST) – controlled via a relay (not the Ron Francis relay) and can be turned on via a ground from this switch, the A/C, or EFI.
Fuel Pump (SPST) - Only manually controlled. Love the thought of hearing the unit turn on before the roar of the engine. Will be a ground based trigger via a relay.

I will be using the Russ Thompson turn signal (http://www.norcal-cobras.com/store/russ_garage/t65/t65tss.html). As such, no toggle switch is required for this functionality, and the high/low beams will be handled via the button on the RT. As mentioned earlier, all this will be run through an IDidIT module (https://www.jegs.com/i/Ididit/535/3100006040/10002/-1).

I was able to find very closely matching switches to the ones on the toggle switch panel (https://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerce.com/toggle-switch-panels/):

DPDT (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082QXGPZ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
DPST (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082QNPQSW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Overall, I believe this will provide easy functionality, a very clean and minimalist dash, while still maintaining a period-correct appearance. If you are looking to do this yourself, it should be noted that this will very much complicate your wiring, so be prepared (or warned depending on your perspective).

wedel456

11-25-2024, 06:59 PM

Today, I wrapped up all the bodywork on my dash before sending it off to the upholstery shop. I meticulously ensured all the hole sizes were accurate, the panel was perfectly straight, and everything looked clean and professional. I’m thrilled with how it turned out!

While working on this final stage, I realized I left a few details out of my previous posts about the dash.

Speedometer Programming Button - I drilled a hole just below the speedometer to house its programming button. This location allows easy access without detracting from the dash's clean appearance.
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Clock Programming Button Bracket - For the clock's (https://speedhut.com/gauge-applications/revolution-racing-performance/led-lighting/performance-led-clock/2-5-8-clock/?dd-link=0lduumusytj) programming button, I fabricated a small bracket out of aluminum L-channel (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-1-1-2-in-W-x-1-1-2-in-H-x-8-ft-L-Mill-Finished-Aluminum-Solid-Angle/3058175). This bracket sits slightly recessed below the clock (https://speedhut.com/gauge-applications/revolution-racing-performance/led-lighting/performance-led-clock/2-5-8-clock/?dd-link=0lduumusytj), just enough for fingers to reach behind the dash to press the button. I placed it carefully to prevent accidental activation or interference from knees when entering or exiting the car.
Instrument Panel Integration - To clarify how the dash will function as one full piece despite using a separate instrument panel:

I installed a 3/4-inch aluminum L-channel (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-1-1-2-in-W-x-1-1-2-in-H-x-8-ft-L-Mill-Finished-Aluminum-Solid-Angle/3058175) that runs the entire length of the dash at the back, from the passenger side to the driver’s side. This addition was crucial for maintaining the structural integrity and achieving a seamless "default dash" look.
Since L-channel (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-1-1-2-in-W-x-1-1-2-in-H-x-8-ft-L-Mill-Finished-Aluminum-Solid-Angle/3058175) edges are square and lack the roundness needed for a smooth finish and to match the rest of the dash, I used a belt sander (https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/sanders/stationary-belt-disc-sanders/4-in-x-36-in-belt-and-6-in-disc-sander-58339.html)to blunt the hard corner. Afterward, I applied JB Weld (https://www.lowes.com/pd/J-B-WELD-10-oz-Pro-Size-Gray-Epoxy-Adhesive-Tube-2-Part-Cold-Weld-System-for-Multi-Use-Projects-Waterproof-Heat-Resistant-Sandable/5001749323) to fill in the gap and sanded it down to create a smooth, matching profile.
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Courtesy Lights Location - I also failed to previously highlight the location of the courtesy lights. They are installed at the very center of each side of the dash. The lights I chose are the L86 models (https://watsons-streetworks.com/product/3-led-interior-and-marker-lights-l86/?attribute_color=White+LEDs%2FClear+Lens) with a white lens from Watson Streetworks, which should provide a clean, modern look while still fitting the overall aesthetic.
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Dash Side Panels - I filled all the connection points from the dash side panels using JB Weld (https://www.lowes.com/pd/J-B-WELD-10-oz-Pro-Size-Gray-Epoxy-Adhesive-Tube-2-Part-Cold-Weld-System-for-Multi-Use-Projects-Waterproof-Heat-Resistant-Sandable/5001749323) (you can see this in the pic above). This is very important since I will not be utilizing any padding. vinyl will show almost everything.
Dash Rivets - other than what was noted in my first dash post, everything that is connected to the dash is utilizing flat aluminum 1/8 flush mount blind rivets (https://www.mcmaster.com/97447A210/)and then they are sanded smooth and filled with JB Weld. (https://www.lowes.com/pd/J-B-WELD-10-oz-Pro-Size-Gray-Epoxy-Adhesive-Tube-2-Part-Cold-Weld-System-for-Multi-Use-Projects-Waterproof-Heat-Resistant-Sandable/5001749323)

The dash now looks cohesive, sturdy, and ready for the next phase. Once it comes back from upholstery, I’ll be excited to share the finished product!

wedel456

11-26-2024, 08:21 AM

Once my custom panels were completed, I moved on to installing the A/C – Heater – Defroster unit. Honestly, I’m not entirely sure how I managed this solo, but by carefully wrapping my arm around the frame while looking down at the unit, I was able to mark the top two mounting locations. After drilling and installing these, I could then support the back of the unit and crawl underneath to mark the inner mounting location.

The biggest challenge of this process was deciding the optimal angle for installation.

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Brackets and Installation Details:
For the brackets:

Left Hanger: I installed a 10-32 rivnut (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Ribbed-Rivet-Nut-Aluminium/1600-014.htm) and used a flange head screws (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Button-Flange-Socket-Head-10-32-Screw-Stainless-p/56000.htm) and a stainless washer (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Flat-Washers-304-Stainless-Steel-p/1000-105000.htm). For reference, this rivnut is located approximately 4 3/8" from the outside frame member.
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Right Hanger: I drilled and tapped the hole instead of using a rivnut due to limited access and used a flange head screws (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Button-Flange-Socket-Head-10-32-Screw-Stainless-p/56000.htm) and a stainless washer (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Flat-Washers-304-Stainless-Steel-p/1000-105000.htm). Since this bracket will likely never need to be touched again and I do not have a small rivnut installation tool (yes, I know they are cheap (https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-963-267D-Rivet-Nut-Tool/dp/B0BNP5G5BY/ref=asc_df_B0BNP5G5BY?mcid=62421b6888a131359e43125 d23fb1002&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693585715857&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18381213061633462782&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9009968&hvtargid=pla-2247616106311&psc=1) but I did not think the effort/cost was worth it for a one off installation), I felt this approach was practical.

Connection to the Sirocco Unit: I used a 10-32 stainless flange head screw (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Button-Flange-Socket-Head-10-32-Screw-Stainless-p/56000.htm) with a stainless washer (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Flat-Washers-304-Stainless-Steel-p/1000-105000.htm) and locknut (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Nylon-Lock-Nuts-304-Stainless-Steel-p/128000.htm) on the inside, bypassing the provided self-tapping screws (I just could not bring myself to use the provided self tapping screw).

Bottom Bracket: I installed a 10-32 rivnut (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Ribbed-Rivet-Nut-Aluminium/1600-014.htm) and flange head screws (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Button-Flange-Socket-Head-10-32-Screw-Stainless-p/56000.htm).

After aligning everything, I removed the unit, sprayed all brackets with TCP Global Jet Black (https://www.ebay.com/itm/392840266177) for a clean finish, and reinstalled the unit.

Heater Control Valve:
For the Heater Control Valve, I never liked the look of the default installation location. After watching @RSnake’s video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lpvy9LR9JoE) showcasing his installation approach, I decided to follow his lead. I mocked up the unit on the engine side of the passenger footwell, and it fits perfectly.

I won’t be using the provided bulkhead connectors for the heater lines. Instead, I’ll install passthrough grommets (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09XVDTQ8F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for the firewall. To make this work, I may need to trim some of the plastic on one or both sides of the control valve. However, this setup will result in a much cleaner look in the engine bay. The valve itself will be secured solely by the tension of the heater lines. I’ll provide pictures and more details during the final installation. Additionally, this will keep most of the wiring out of the engine bay, too.

Bulkhead Bracket Challenges:
During this process, I drilled the holes for the A/C bulkhead bracket. Despite meticulous measuring, my drill marks didn’t align for a direct connection between the unit and the bulkhead connectors (a common issue among builders). To resolve this, I decided against patching the hole and will instead use additional angled fittings (https://www.ebay.com/itm/400900451272) for the lower #6. I’ll document this further when I complete the final installation of the unit; however, I did mock it up and it works perfectly.

wedel456

11-26-2024, 08:45 AM

In early October, after months of asking questions, looking at vendors, and assessing where I was at in the build, I decided it was time to pull the trigger on the engine. As I stated in the preface, I knew I didn’t want to go with a modern engine. Something about the old school sound and smell of a small-block Ford (SBF) just made sense. Even after looking around and talking with other engine builders, I decided to stick with Proformance Unlimited (https://www.proformanceunlimited.com) out of Florida. Their customer service and ability to answer question after question without frustration was reassuring to me. Additionally, their customer reviews were great. I can’t speak more highly of them so far. You get a video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1A5Kpjea_Go) of the engine on the dyno, and they burn in a tune for you—a true drop-in ready solution. I also picked up their TKX transmission package for an all-in-one solution.

The engine is a 427 stroker with 575 HP (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HBPwT_YHn6c) (I’m smiling while typing this), Dart block, and a Holley Sniper 2 EFI system. The package I purchased includes a full chrome CVF serpentine system with A/C (which I will be using instead of the Factory Five-provided one), power steering, and an alternator. The block will be painted all black to make the chrome really pop. I upgraded to the typical Cobra air cleaner (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-9600-c302?srsltid=AfmBOopuoxq4TRsETdEWAx1RD_8Ukq0qO03dD fyKIPslL2WwZrJZ-dM-) and valve covers (https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=Ford+Racing+Pentroof+427+Cobra+Tall+Valve+Covers +-+Black&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8#oshopproduct=pid:9236755135247813044,oid:9236755 135247813044,iid:6091501503792166,pvt:hg,pvo:3&oshop=apv&pvs=0), too. I’ll be using the 5520 CDI box (https://www.holley.com/products/ignition/ignition_boxes/street/parts/5520?srsltid=AfmBOopUCIjLQGKxGtQg7DdYcOTzsvMz-7zmk9Hy2UkhBRzvGhO6M7au) in black.

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One last customization I made was taken from @P100DHG (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/member.php?27246-P100DHG). I never really liked the inline coolant filler provided in the FF kit. It just doesn’t look right to me. So, I had the engine builder install @P100DHG’s solution (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?29393-P100DHG-Build-Thread-Gen-3-Coupe-138&p=391933&viewfull=1#post391933) from TDMotion (https://tdmotion.com/product/427w-ford-ultra-thermostat-housing-kit/). This will remove that inline filler and put it at the top of the engine for a much cleaner look. I’ll cover this as part of the radiator tube installation when I get there.

As for the transmission, it’s a TKX with a Hytech throwout bearing and 13/16 Wildwood master cylinder. The package comes with everything needed for the install (bell housing, flywheel, clutch disc, etc.). Additionally, it comes with the necessary mid-shift kit for the coupe installation location.

Overall, it was a big hit to the wallet, but my God, this thing is going to be a beast. It should be here sometime in December (hopefully as an early Christmas present to me).

wedel456

11-26-2024, 11:29 AM

With the dash ready to go, I set my eyes on the switch panel. As I discussed previously, I originally wasn’t going to install a switch panel under the dash. However, after reviewing dash designs, deciding not to put controls in the transmission tunnel (like P100DHG (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?29393-P100DHG-Build-Thread-Gen-3-Coupe-138&p=436786&viewfull=1#post436786)), and realizing how much electrical work needed to be hidden, I really didn’t have any other options.

Another reason I decided to use a switch panel is the extremely flimsy dash in the middle. Without any support, I was concerned that the dash would actually vibrate with the engine. Adding the switch panel not only gave me a practical place for all the controls but also provided much-needed reinforcement for the dash, ensuring it stays solid and stable.

I needed a location to place:

The start button from the Digital Guard Dawg (https://www.jegs.com/i/Digital-Guard-Dawg/657/PBSIO/10002/-1)
The A/C on/off, Fan, and Heat switches
USB charging ports (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0DGTHCNTW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Using the same cardboard from other design template projects, I created a template and cut it out of 6061 T3 aluminum. Boy, was that a mistake. I was able to make the front bend using my brake; however, the bend was too much for the material, and it split. I should have taken the advice (as usual) from @EdwardB (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-5-000-Mile-Report&p=324377&viewfull=1#post324377) and purchased some softer material. Looking around the garage, I had just enough remaining A/C vent material (https://www.lowes.com/pd/IMPERIAL-24-in-x-3-ft-Galvanized-Steel-Sheet-Metal/3234805)that I used for the footwell custom panels. That worked perfectly and was extremely easy to bend in the brake. There literally was zero reason to use thicker material.

Once the piece was completed, I ran into what could be a major eye-catching issue. The car is not 100 percent centered. As you can see in the picture below, the transmission tunnel is not exactly in the middle of the car—it is actually off by about 3/8 of an inch. Everything I have been doing so far has been based on the dash being centered. This means that if I were to center the switch locations on the switch panel, they wouldn’t line up exactly with the Toggle Switch Panel (https://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerce.com/toggle-switch-panels/) above. My wife thinks I’m crazy, but I just know my eye will be drawn to it.

206833

Since I can’t adjust the panel side to side (that would be even worse), I decided to split the difference for the middle fan control (approximately 3/16 of an inch) and then line up the A/C and Temp control with the guard locations from the switch panel above (will make more sense when I do the actual final install). At this point, I am a little nervous that it will not look right, but time will tell. It’s hard to determine without the dash and switch panel being covered.

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The switch panel is connected to the upper transmission cover via 10-32 rivnuts (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Ribbed-Rivet-Nut-Aluminium/1600-014.htm)and flange head screws (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Button-Flange-Socket-Head-10-32-Screw-Stainless-p/56000.htm), and to the dash using 10-32 rivnuts (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Ribbed-Rivet-Nut-Aluminium/1600-014.htm) installed in the switch panel and screwed above from the dash lip using flange heads (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Button-Flange-Socket-Head-10-32-Screw-Stainless-p/56000.htm). These can be accessed via the Toggle Switch Panel (https://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerce.com/toggle-switch-panels/) above, making the switch panel fully removable.

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To finish up the project, I drilled a hole on each side of the switch panel to house a USB charging port ([URL="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0DGTHCNTW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

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Final Issues and Fixes:
I did end up running into a couple of final issues with the switch panel:

Switch Alignment - My first plan was to line up the switches in the switch panel with the Toggle Switch Panel (https://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerce.com/toggle-switch-panels/) above. While symmetrically that would have looked weird in hindsight, it also didn’t provide the correct spacing required to put your fingers between the fan and temp switches. I had to fill the holes with JB Weld (https://www.lowes.com/pd/J-B-WELD-10-oz-Pro-Size-Gray-Epoxy-Adhesive-Tube-2-Part-Cold-Weld-System-for-Multi-Use-Projects-Waterproof-Heat-Resistant-Sandable/5001749323) and redrill them to line up with the switch guards from the Toggle Switch Panel (https://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerce.com/toggle-switch-panels/) above.
Switch Twisting - Since I am not using the Factory Five-provided switch installation panel for the A/C controls, I ran into an issue with the switches twisting. I could have lined up the holes just right and spent time drilling and filling the holes correctly, but my solution was to cut the Factory Five-provided panel and then mount it with a flush mount rivet in the correct locations from behind. This provides the perfect alignment of the switches, prevents them from spinning, and avoids the time necessary to drill and file the holes just right.

One last thing to note:
There is VERY little room behind the panel. The angle of the upper transmission tunnel does not allow for much space here. I had to bend the spades on the switches just to make them fit into this space. If you are looking at installing larger switches, be prepared to spend some time here (@EdwardB documented (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-5-000-Mile-Report&p=331279&viewfull=1#post331279) this in his build).

wedel456

11-26-2024, 11:51 AM

I will not bore everyone with a thread about the drilling of the panels. Everyone else knows it is a tedious endeavor. Make sure that you have more than enough Clecos (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08VRZV7JZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) (again, you can never have too many) and a handful of #30 drill bits (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FXN4Z1E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Mine may just be cheap, but I have gone through a few of them at this point. Like other panels, I took more than enough time to ensure that all rivets would be in line with each other, even on panels that would never be seen again. The only panels that I could not do this with were the ones that came pre-drilled from Factory Five. By the time (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568368&viewfull=1#post568368) I decided I was going to do powder coating, I had already drilled all the panels, so I couldn’t start over to get the alignment. The ones that were off were the footwell inside upper and lower walls on the passenger side and the footwell inside wall on the driver side. The rivets line up on the panels themselves, but not to each other. I know, I know, not a big deal, but it drives me up the wall. It would be awesome if we could order the car without any panels drilled!!!!

Once I was done with all the drilling, I sent the parts off to the powder coater, (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568368&viewfull=1#post568368) and OMG—they look dang good. I haven’t installed most of them yet (though you can catch glimpses of them in some of the posts above), but the finish came out great. The quality is exactly what I was hoping for, and it really adds that extra touch of polish to the build.

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Again, if you are in the Charolette, NC area hit up Pro Dimension Powdercoating (https://www.facebook.com/ProDimensionPowdercoating/).

What did surprise me, based upon what I have read on other posts, I did not find this project too time consuming. I knocked out all the alignment and drilling fairly quickly. The only panel that really confused me (thank you @EdwardB (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?49917-Cockpit-Rear-Outside-Corner-Left-and-Right-Reference-Picture-for-Riveting&p=564612&viewfull=1#post564612)) was the two Cockpit Rear Inside Corners (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?49917-Cockpit-Rear-Outside-Corner-Left-and-Right-Reference-Picture-for-Riveting&p=564576&viewfull=1#post564576). I did not understand, and the manual does not really show this, how to correctly attach those panels. If you are confused see the link (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?49917-Cockpit-Rear-Outside-Corner-Left-and-Right-Reference-Picture-for-Riveting&p=564576&viewfull=1#post564576) to that discussion.

wedel456

11-26-2024, 01:12 PM

After reviewing the trunk box build (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-5-000-Mile-Report&p=317071&viewfull=1#post317071) from @EdwardB, I knew I wanted to do a drop trunk.

Trunk Box Fabrication:
I purchased some 6061 T3 .04 to match the FF-provided panels from Zoro—again, should have listened to @EdwardB. Using the same dimensions as him—16 inches wide, 23 inches long, and 5 1/2 inches deep—I cut the material on my band saw (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08SK9W4Q5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and ensured everything was nice and square / smooth on the belt sander (https://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-x-36-in-belt-and-6-in-disc-sander-58339.html). Once I tried to put it in the brake (https://www.harborfreight.com/18-inch-bending-brake-39103.html), my god. Either I do not know what I am doing (which is a strong possibility), I am not strong enough (again, another possibility), or the 6061 T3 is not meant for this brake (https://www.harborfreight.com/18-inch-bending-brake-39103.html). I could not make the bends on the 16 or 23-inch sides. Just could… not… do… it.

I could have purchased softer material; however, I had a bunch of 1-inch L-channel (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-1-1-2-in-W-x-1-1-2-in-H-x-8-ft-L-Mill-Finished-Aluminum-Solid-Angle/3058175), so I used that for the top and bottom of the panel and then cut off the lip length of each panel and connected them to the L-channel.

The 5 1/2-inch deep sides did work with the brake (https://www.harborfreight.com/18-inch-bending-brake-39103.html), so I bent those to support the sides.

I then cut the bottom panel out of the same 6061 T3 material and placed it in the bottom of the trunk. All panels were connected together or to the L-channel (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-1-1-2-in-W-x-1-1-2-in-H-x-8-ft-L-Mill-Finished-Aluminum-Solid-Angle/3058175) utilizing 1/8-inch aluminum rivets (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/product-display.html?Product_Code=11930018).

In the end, the trunk box construction turned out fine—not great, but fine. It’s not anywhere near as clean or polished as @EdwardB’s example (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82488&d=1520894072), but it’s most definitely stronger thanks to the L-channel (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-1-1-2-in-W-x-1-1-2-in-H-x-8-ft-L-Mill-Finished-Aluminum-Solid-Angle/3058175)reinforcement. The added durability and rigidity make it a functional and sturdy solution that I can live with, even if it doesn’t win any awards for aesthetics. The good thing is that it will not be seen by anyone once installed.

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Once I put in a little calk and install the sound and heat material no one but me will know execute ne and it will function all the same.

Once the box construction was completed, I took the time to closely measure and cut the hole from the hatch floor. I did need to trim the L-channel (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-1-1-2-in-W-x-1-1-2-in-H-x-8-ft-L-Mill-Finished-Aluminum-Solid-Angle/3058175) to fit into the open area correctly. It took me many back-and-forth trips between the grinder (https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&source=web&cd=&ved=0CF0Qj_IEahcKEwjQj9DayPqJAxUAAAAAHQAAAAAQBQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.lowes.com%2Fpd%2FMetabo-HPT-4-5-in-18-volt-Sliding-Switch-Cordless-Angle-Grinder-Charger-Not-Incldued%2F5013490915%3Fuser%3Dshopping%26feed%3Dy es%26srsltid%3DAfmBOorwlp6W9Y27Gf-vX-LcIpZiGyT5Wdto0mqMBoslZGCAflzrOW-2qYE%26gQT%3D1&psig=AOvVaw33S7lXzQGNvbW9gCNUHFjI&ust=1732730079075941&opi=89978449) and test fitting the panel to cut around the hatch floor middle cross frame rails.

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I did not reinstall the hatch for the sending unit; however, I will leave the hatch for the fuel pump. I have not decided if I will install rivnuts and not glue down the carpet in that area or just know that I would need to drop the tank if the fuel pump was to fail. I am leaning it at the latter at this point.

Trunk Box Cover:
Following the @EdwardB construction, I, too, wanted to have a cover for the trunk. I do not document the construction of this in pictures but will do so when I install it for the last time. However, for now, I did cut the cover out of 6061 T3 .04 material to match the trunk and the rest of the FF panels. The dimensions of the cover is 24 inches long and ~18 inches wide I then split the cover width wise:

10 inches
8 inches

My thought process on two different sizes was to more easily allow the trunk to be propped up during use. Not sure if it really makes a difference either way but we will see.

I then utilized two 180-Degree Piano Surface Stainless Steel Cabinet Hinges (https://www.lowes.com/pd/ReliaBilt-ReliaBilt-1-1-2-in-x-12-in-Stainless-Steel-Continuous-Hinge-1-Pack/5002987407?store=3040&cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-hdw-_-ggl-_-CRP_SHP_LIA_HDW_Online_E-F-_-5002987407-_-local-_-0-_-0&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD2B2W_8l0GoH5NF50nbGLHfMU1MZ&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9fud9cn6iQMV4HR_AB2_5yFdEAQYASAB EgLyBvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds)from Lowes, cutting them to match. Aligned the 10 inch panel at the top and the 8 inch at the bottom. Drilled the holes in the panels to line up to the hinge hole locations. Once that was completed I sent the panels off to powder coating.

The remaining item on this project is:

Mounting of trunk box lid to the Hatch Floor panel - @EdwardB utilized rivets; however, I am leaning towards 10-32 rivnuts (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Ribbed-Rivet-Nut-Aluminium/1600-020.htm?v_code=1600-020-002) and stainless steel flange head screws (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Button-Flange-Socket-Head-10-32-Screw-Stainless-p/56000.htm). This will allow for easy adjustment and removal, if required, yet still provide the strength to keep it in the right place during opening/closing
Screws to mount the hinges to the panel - the piano hinges come with #4 wood screws (obviously would not work). My thought was to purchase stainless 4-40 screws (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/product-display.html?Product_Code=1600012) and nuts (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/product-display.html?Product_Code=1251000-0002-002); however, when I got them the heads were not big enough. I had some #6 left over from another project and they are too big. Will need to find the right size screw head.

Finishing Thoughts:

Trunk Box Cover - this will be covered in slightly oversized carpet (https://www.factoryfiveparts.com/16957-72-wide-raw-black-carpet-material/) and edged appropriately, The top half will be glued to the cover while bottom half will be left to float with the cover to allow it to open.
Trunk Box - this will be covered with sound and heat material and then covered in carpet (https://www.factoryfiveparts.com/16957-72-wide-raw-black-carpet-material/).
Frame Cross Members - I am thinking about finishing these with the same vinyl material (https://braumracing.com/products/black-leatherette-material) as the seats. Now that I am not using it for the dash I have 1 yard and nothing to do with it.

JimStone

11-26-2024, 01:28 PM

wedel456

11-26-2024, 01:35 PM

You're making good progress. I got my kit a few weeks before you and you're way ahead of me. I work an hour or two a day after the kids go to sleep during the week and a bit more on weekends. Slow and steady, I guess.

So you got a Russ Thompson turn signal? You must have been planning ahead. I'm stressing about getting one, but TJ's version is basically unobtainable currently and I'm not a fan of 427etc's model.

Yes, my last company sold last year so I am doing this almost full time right now - and loving it. I am actually farther ahead on many items as I am just now posting. More updates over the next couple of days to get me up-to-date.

Yes, I have the RT turn signal. While I give MAJOR props to TJ for continuing RT's legacy, I, too, had major time delays with ordering. Took me from July to October to get one. My suggestion is that you email (not call or direct PM him on this site) him (PM me if you do not have his address). It took me just a few times to get him. I am not knocking him at all as I know this is not his primary business and I am 100 percent confident he is not becoming rich off of this.

wedel456

11-26-2024, 02:00 PM

In my "The Build" post, I listed "Lizard Skin Heat (https://lizardskin.com/heat-protection/) and Sound (https://lizardskin.com/sound-control-coating/)" as an additional add-on I was looking forward to accomplishing. However, after looking at the time necessary to prep the car to make this happen, and the time required to do the footwell panels (See @P100DHG (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?29393-P100DHG-Build-Thread-Gen-3-Coupe-138&p=388255&viewfull=1#post388255)) or purchase additional products (see @EdwardB (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-5-000-Mile-Report&p=333335&viewfull=1#post333335)), I thought it would be wise to look for other options before pulling the trigger. During my research, I found that costs range WIDELY. However, while looking, I saw a video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0o_rkbwRh7c&t=959s) from @i.e.427 where he was installing a FatMat (https://www.fatmat.com) product on a 25th anniversary. I looked into the product and found their RattleTrap (https://www.ebay.com/itm/226305086093?var=525492462097) product. Did some quick searches on the forum and decided that this would be a better path forward for me:

Other than making templates for the footwell panels, there is literally zero prep (other than cleaning the panels post-install).
I believe it will be a vastly quicker install, can be done in chunks rather than all at once, and will be consistent across the entire car.
You do not need to be concerned about overspray or ensuring there are no gaps in your panels before installation.
You can utilize the product to complexly cover the inside of panels and roll the product onto the frame - i.e. the passenger and drivers side area outside the cockpit right above the exhaust. This will ensure that all gaps are closed and provide maximum sound a heat reduction.

I bought the 100 Sq/Ft package (https://www.ebay.com/itm/226305086093?var=525492462097) as I plan on installing this on all panels and the roof of the coupe. Yes, it probably will not be as heat resistant as LizardSkin (https://lizardskin.com) (although based upon my experience to date with a heat gun, it works fairly well), but it will surely work for sound deadening. If you are buying from Ebay (the cheapest when I bought it), there really is no benefit of purchasing more than you guess as the small packages are essentially the same cost. Will just cost you a couple of days waiting on it to arrive.

The product goes on very easily. Cut the product, give it a little heat with the heat gun, remove a small portion of the backing on one side of the piece you are installing, and while using the provided roller (or a highly recommended upgrade roller like I purchased), ensure no air is trapped behind the panel to guarantee that 100% sticks to the surface. This provides maximum heat and sound deadening.

Installation Note:
If you are going to look at this product you should know that the product is not perfectly flat, and by that I mean it is no where near flat. Even with effort to heat the product and roll it flat from both sides you will NEVER (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568549&viewfull=1#post568549) be able to get it flat enough to cover something with vinyl/leather without body work and/or foam (forshaddowing for another post). Be aware if this if you are looking at these types of product or performing and install.

wedel456

11-26-2024, 02:44 PM

Now that all my panels are done, powder coating completed (at least for the 100 percent necessary panels at this point), the engine is on order, and I have worked out the switch and relay situation, I started thinking about how I wanted to run the wiring. After reviewing multiple builds, I decided I like the clean and hidden wiring path of @P100DHG (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?29393-P100DHG-Build-Thread-Gen-3-Coupe-138&p=436786&viewfull=1#post436786) and the Ron Francis location from @EdwardB (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-5-000-Mile-Report&p=309365&viewfull=1#post309365).

Wiring Paths:

The Ron Francis wiring will be installed under the driver's side dash (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568607&viewfull=1#post568607), with most of it being hidden by the custom panel.
The Ron Francis wiring will run through the upper right-hand corner of the custom panel into the back of the dash (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568339&viewfull=1#post568339) and then down through holes drilled through the left top side Front Top Transmission Cover.
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All front harnesses will run down the transmission tubing, then along the driver's side bottom frame rails, splitting to go out to the engine components (tach, oil pressure, water temp, etc.), and then to a split for the headlights and fan. This is the same wiring path as P100DHG (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?29393-P100DHG-Build-Thread-Gen-3-Coupe-138&p=436786&viewfull=1#post436786). This is the optimal path if you are looking for the wires to almost completely disappear
The rear harness will go in the opposite direction, following the brake lines (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568297&viewfull=1#post568297), then splitting to the left and right taillights and the required wiring for the sending unit and fuel pump.
The main battery feed, starter wiring, etc will run along the passenger side frame rail up through the transmission tunnel to Ron Francis MS-01 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/RFW-MS1), documented below.

Main Power Plan:

For the main power setup, I have decided on the following configuration:

Battery - I will be using an Odyssey PC925 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ody-pc925) battery for its compact size and reliability along with their terminal kit (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ody-3217-0006) (could not find the PC925T with easy shipping and this ended up being cheaper). The terminals for both positive (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BSGGBYBX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and negative (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BSNXZ7RB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) will be soldered crimpless terminals and protected by covers (positive (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08Z1R67DZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and negative (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08Z1S5LGP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1))
Battery to Disconnect - A #2 AWG cable (https://www.amazon.com/Spartan-Power-Welding-Battery-Excelene/dp/B08Y7G6YGW?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1) will run from the battery to the Ron Francis MS-01 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/RFW-MS1) disconnect located on the passenger side of the cockpit, near the transmission side panel.
Battery to Starter - On the same feed post of the disconnect, a #4 AWG (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08Y7BFW82/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)cable will run to the starter.
Under Dash Power - On the switched side, I’ll be using a #6 AWG cable to power a 150A bus bar (https://www.temu.com/goods.html?_bg_fs=1&goods_id=601099632269696&sku_id=17592645152700&_x_sessn_id=owmuzmspoq&refer_page_name=bgt_order_detail&refer_page_id=10045_1732649606484_66vytvggmz&refer_page_sn=10045) that will be installed somewhere inside the cockpit, behind the dash.
Battery Grounding - The main ground will be a #2 AWG cable (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BZGLSXMZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1) running from the battery’s negative post to a grounded spot near the front corner of the engine bay on the passenger side. This will be accomplished by grinding away the powder coating and using a 3/8-16 flange head screw (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/product-display.html?Product_Code=12140002) into a tapped hole for secure grounding.
Alternator - The alternator will be directly connected back to the battery using a #4 AWG (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08Y7BFW82/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) cable through a mega fuse (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XW27WMD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for protection.
Grounding Bus Bar - I will also install a grounding bus bar (https://www.temu.com/goods.html?_bg_fs=1&goods_id=601099632269696&sku_id=17592645152700&_x_sessn_id=owmuzmspoq&refer_page_name=bgt_order_detail&refer_page_id=10045_1732649606484_66vytvggmz&refer_page_sn=10045) under the dash. This will be grounded to an additional location by removing powder coating and using a 3/8-16 flange head screw (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/product-display.html?Product_Code=12140002) for a secure connection.
Under Dash Grounding - All electrical components under the dash, including lights, switches, and other accessories, will connect to a grounding bus bar (https://www.temu.com/goods.html?_bg_fs=1&goods_id=601099632269696&sku_id=17592645152700&_x_sessn_id=owmuzmspoq&refer_page_name=bgt_order_detail&refer_page_id=10045_1732649606484_66vytvggmz&refer_page_sn=10045) to ensure a centralized, organized, and easy-to-manage wiring system.

Open Items
I am still looking for mounting locations for the CDI box (MSD 5520 (https://www.holley.com/products/ignition/ignition_boxes/street/parts/5520?srsltid=AfmBOoqUrA03gwOzbYaeViLw-LsUcHZlc9D0JfLVgzxc5JOCjGZWIiBq)). Once that location is ermined I will need to decided on all the cables are run to the engine for monting. I plan on using as much as the Ron Francis wiring harness to connect into the CDI.

wedel456

11-26-2024, 03:20 PM

Relay Boxes Setup:
After a bit of head-scratching and some research on how to fit everything in such a compact space, I found a great deal on Amazon for True Mods Relay Boxes (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08KHVHLL5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Each kit comes with the box and six relays, plus a built-in fuse box. The boxes are mounted using screws and 1/4-20 rivnuts (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Ribbed-Rivet-Nut-Aluminium/1600-020.htm?v_code=1600-020-004) on the same support as the dash, which allows easy access and a secure fit. I was initially worried about only having support on one side of the box, so I opted for larger screws to ensure stability.

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First Relay Box (Functions):

Fan Relay – This will be a ground-based relay, powered by the Ron Francis DK Blue - Cooling Fan wire, that’s ground switched via a SPST toggle switch on the Toggle Switch Panel. (https://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerce.com/toggle-switch-panels/) It will allow the fan to be controlled manually, but it can also be triggered automatically by the EFI or A/C system.
Wiper Relay 1 & 2 – These will control the front wipers, with two relays handling separate functions for the system. The setup is using the P100DHG setup (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?29393-P100DHG-Build-Thread-Gen-3-Coupe-138&p=429113&viewfull=1#post429113). These relays are powered by the Ron Francis PURP-Wiper wire and is a ground based trigger using DPDT (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082QXGPZ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) toggle switch in the Toggle Switch Panel (https://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerce.com/toggle-switch-panels/).

Second Relay Box (Functions)

Fuel Pump Relay – This relay will get power directly from the battery through the built-in fuse box. It will only activate when the SPST Toggle Switch Panel (https://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerce.com/toggle-switch-panels/) is in the "on" position and the Digital Guard Dawg PBS-1 (https://www.jegs.com/i/Digital-Guard-Dawg/657/PBSIO/10002/-1) is enabled (meaning I’m within range with the key). This provides added security, ensuring that the fuel pump won’t run unless I’m within range, and if I forget to turn it off, the system will handle it for me when I leave range. This relay will directly power the fuel pump and will tie into the Ron Francis Tan-Elect Fuel Pump wire.
Fog Light Relay – This is a ground-based relay that requires both a SPST switch in the Toggle Switch Panel (https://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerce.com/toggle-switch-panels/) and the light switch to be in the "on" position. The relay will be powered via the IDidIt module (https://www.jegs.com/i/Ididit/535/3100006040/10002/-1), which is enabled when the light switch is pulled out. The fog lights will be powered via this relay and will run over new wires that need to be run to power the fog lights and will ground by connecting into the driving light grounds
PBS Enablement Relay – A ground-triggered relay connected to the "Ground When Enabled" port on the Digital Guard Dawg PBS-1 (https://www.jegs.com/i/Digital-Guard-Dawg/657/PBSIO/10002/-1). This will trigger when the key is in range, enabling other relays in the car to work. The relay is powered by the battery and feeds power to other relays.
E-brake Relay – This relay powers the warning light on the dash when the e-brake is engaged. It’s triggered by the Digital Guard Dawg PBS-1 (https://www.jegs.com/i/Digital-Guard-Dawg/657/PBSIO/10002/-1) and the e-brake. I’ll go into more detail about the e-brake system in a future post, but this relay ensures that the warning light will be on, regardless of whether the car is running or not. The relay receives power from the PBS Enablement Relay, again, will only power the light when the key is within range AND the e-brake is enabled.
Clutch and Safety Switch Relay – This will allow the car to start (and turn off)by either having the clutch or transmission safety switch to be engaged. Yes, both are the same thing but wanted some redundancy just in case one was to fail. Did not want to get stuck. I’m still working on the wiring for this one, as I don’t want the full starter switch wire power to go through this relay (if possible) and do not want to connect this directly to the battery. This is even more difficult because the default setup for the Digital Guard Dawg PBS-1 (https://www.jegs.com/i/Digital-Guard-Dawg/657/PBSIO/10002/-1) requires the brake to be pressed BEFORE the car will crank and BEFORE the car is turned off. Suggestions are welcome! *** solution here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568787&viewfull=1#post568787) ***
Headlight Buzzer (https://watsons-streetworks.com/product/reminder-buzzer/) Relay – This relay triggers a buzzer to warn me if the headlights are left on after the ignition (on the Digital Guard Dawg PBS-1 (https://www.jegs.com/i/Digital-Guard-Dawg/657/PBSIO/10002/-1)) turns off. It connects to the light switch through the IDidIt module (https://www.jegs.com/i/Ididit/535/3100006040/10002/-1) and uses port 87A (Normally Closed) on the relay. Teh relay is powered via the Headlight switch (via the IDidIt module (https://www.jegs.com/i/Ididit/535/3100006040/10002/-1)) and is triggered via the Ignition wire on the Digital Guard Dawg PBS-1 (https://www.jegs.com/i/Digital-Guard-Dawg/657/PBSIO/10002/-1). This will make it so the buzzer (https://watsons-streetworks.com/product/reminder-buzzer/) only buzzes then the headlight switch is on and the ingnition is off.

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*for reference, here is a chart if you are looking at copying all or some of this.

Conclusion:
By using these relays, I’m able to integrate modern functionality into the car while maintaining its vintage appeal. The relay boxes are compact, efficient, and allow for easy management of the car’s electrical system. This setup provides a clean, minimalist dash and ensures that I can control the car’s various systems with modern convenience and security, without the risk of simple mistakes like leaving lights on or running down the battery.

Let me know if you have any suggestions or questions!

wedel456

11-26-2024, 03:47 PM

In past posts I discussed the plans on how I was going to upholster the panels (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568339&viewfull=1#post568339)I selected to cover with vinyl. Since making those decision, I also decided to move forward with FatMat RattleTrap (https://www.ebay.com/itm/226305086093?var=525492462097) as discussed in my Thought Capsule: Sound and Head Deadening (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568532&viewfull=1#post568532) post.

The first panel that I put this material on was the Front Top Transmission Tunnel panel. I needed to do this so I could start the wiring process:

206879

It came out great and boy does suit deaden all the sound. HOWEVER, after talking with my upholsterer I learned that the lines that I documented in my Thought Capsule: Sound and Head Deadening (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568532&viewfull=1#post568532) post were going to be a major issue if I wanted the panel vinyl to lay flat. This would require a deep dive into my wife experience with Bondo (https://www.lowes.com/pd/3M-Bondo-174-High-Bond-Quart/1002653804). It took a while but I eventually got the panel very flat, or at least flat enough where it will not show through with foam on top. The upholsterer actually complimented me on how well it turned out.

206881

Since I did that specific panel I with the RattleTrap (https://www.ebay.com/itm/226305086093?var=525492462097) and the bondo work, I had to do the same with the Transmission Tunnel Top panel (the one where the shifter sticks out) as I was concerned there would be a thickness difference between the two panels if one got foam and RattleTrap (https://www.ebay.com/itm/226305086093?var=525492462097) and one did not. This required many more hours of Bondo (https://www.lowes.com/pd/3M-Bondo-174-High-Bond-Quart/1002653804) and sanding work. Overall I would say I put 8 hours into learning how to do this and sanding it flat. If you have not done this before I would recommend getting some plastic putty knifes (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Project-Source-3-Pack-6-1-4-in-Plastic-Putty-Knife/5014113143) and do not cheap out on the sand paper (https://www.lowes.com/pd/3M-3M-Pro-Grade-Precision-9x11-Retail-Pack-Purple-Abrasive-120-grit-3-Sheets/5015565939).

Once you get the hang of it is much easier. I ended up using the some Bondo (https://www.lowes.com/pd/3M-Bondo-174-High-Bond-Quart/1002653804) on the dash to get it perfectly straight, too.

For now, the dash, the two custom footwell panels, the panel under the drivers side dash, and the Front Transmission Tunnel panel are off to the upholsterer. I kept the:

Top Rear Transmission Tunnel - As I have not install the engine and transmission yet. I am confident everything will fit with the mid-shift for the TKX (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568490&viewfull=1#post568490) based upon other threads but want to make sure before I cover it.
Switch Panel (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568511&viewfull=1#post568511) - I am very concerned about the spacing between the dash and the bottom of the panel as it is already tight even without the foam and vinyl. Once I get the dash and Front Transmission Cover back I will test fit the switch panel (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568511&viewfull=1#post568511) to ensure everything fits correctly.

As discussed in the Thought Capsule - Panel Finishing post (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568368&viewfull=1#post568368), only the Front Transmission Tunnel and the Transmission Tunnel Top will get foam. Due to Thanksgiving I should have the first batch of things back the week of December 9th.

wedel456

11-26-2024, 04:13 PM

When I was reviewing the options for the e-brake, I really never liked the idea of the e-brake handle on the transmission tunnel. I thought it looked out of place and would interfere with the arm of any passenger. All the older cars I have owned have always had under-dash foot pedals (my 1967 Mustang had an under-dash handle, and my 1971 C10 is foot-operated). This just made more sense to me and seemed like a cleaner installation.

Then I ran into @RSnake's video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-kfZewLIDjY) on his Wildwood electronic brake installation, and I was sold. The clean, modern feel of it just clicked, and I knew it would be the right choice for my build.

I pulled the trigger on that purchase (https://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/140-15978-RD/10002/-1) and had it match the FF-provided brake red (obviously). The installation was straightforward, and it went on the bracket just like the manual ones. The real issue, however, was the wiring harness:

I need to find yet another place to house the brain, which is ENORMOUS (https://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds1353.pdf) for some reason (almost 5.25 X 5.25 inches). My current thought is to place this in the upper right hand corner of the Front Top Transmission Cover using some velcro (https://www.amazon.com/Strips-Adhesive-Double-Backing-Crafting/dp/B0CGVPMJBP/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2EWQPVC4J2LVN&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.0nZ-DEjAfqm_BLbF6EioJ29h_2onkzf0AMfmQVTxD8VF4tV4bX3zv0 dEE4nOq16bbelb-NCQmFV5qzzyIRg-05qZThmLOqfgXpr5kg5wE-xNESRdf4xdjblh79PBdnOKLA0TePtS81DBrE1vYlHzQV_Jm-AeOJEzoI6p-rJNowqNDHYK4Q38CIEsXcbBWAgWsye9W7tKhes0GnhLactrd2i v0JDboz_kozTLOGaqQJQ.Tj7BR2aGgmKaMkcrPtmNjkecz8guc 9g_OPt3Nc0IVQc&dib_tag=se&keywords=velcro&qid=1732723063&sprefix=velcro%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-4). The velcro (https://www.amazon.com/Strips-Adhesive-Double-Backing-Crafting/dp/B0CGVPMJBP/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2EWQPVC4J2LVN&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.0nZ-DEjAfqm_BLbF6EioJ29h_2onkzf0AMfmQVTxD8VF4tV4bX3zv0 dEE4nOq16bbelb-NCQmFV5qzzyIRg-05qZThmLOqfgXpr5kg5wE-xNESRdf4xdjblh79PBdnOKLA0TePtS81DBrE1vYlHzQV_Jm-AeOJEzoI6p-rJNowqNDHYK4Q38CIEsXcbBWAgWsye9W7tKhes0GnhLactrd2i v0JDboz_kozTLOGaqQJQ.Tj7BR2aGgmKaMkcrPtmNjkecz8guc 9g_OPt3Nc0IVQc&dib_tag=se&keywords=velcro&qid=1732723063&sprefix=velcro%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-4) would allow for easy removal if there is a problem with the unit post installation without taking off the dash. Additionally, there is no room for everything needed under there to install this with screws.
206885
The wiring harness is EXTREMELY long since it’s a universal kit, so it will need to be trimmed dramatically. Additionally, the wiring harness is well-protected with a plastic cover and tape, which only made it harder to remove. It took me a while to deconstruct it.
The head on the wiring harness that connects to the brain is HUGE. It will never fit through any of the holes that I’ve drilled. This means that once the Front Transmission cover is installed, it won’t be coming off without some work. As I diet the harness, I will look for ways to possibly install an adapter that can be disconnected at the transmission front cover. I'm not 100% sure I can make that happen, but I’ll give it a shot.
206886

I spent way too much time (hours) trying to decide where to place the switch to enable the e-brake. The switch looks fairly modern, which I didn’t like, and I didn’t want to put it somewhere that someone could accidentally hit it. It's a bit of a dumb device since, unlike newer cars, it can be engaged at any speed and doesn’t disengage when you put the car in gear and start moving.
206884

Based on those two issues, I decided to hide it on the side panel of the driver’s side of the dash. This will allow only me to turn it on or off, and it won’t be seen by anyone else.
206883
*it is the whole to the left

As I mentioned in my Instrument Panel Planning and Related Items (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568373&viewfull=1#post568373), Thought Capsule: Switches, Lighting Control, Buttons, etc (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568391&viewfull=1#post568391)., and Thought Capsule: Relays (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568546&viewfull=1#post568546) posts, I will be able to know if the e-brake is engaged by a light on the dash that is triggered when I am in range of the Digital Guard Dawg PBS (https://www.jegs.com/i/Digital-Guard-Dawg/657/PBSIO/10002/-1) with a key.

460.465USMC

11-26-2024, 04:16 PM

I am using the kit-provided clutch and brake reservoirs. (https://www.factoryfiveparts.com/34168-brake-reservoir-components/) In the last post, I mentioned where they were going to be installed—in the panel right in front of the driver's footbox.

For those of you who have these or have installed them previously, you know the provided installation brackets have ears, and you use button head screws to install them vertically. Well, the space in this location wouldn't support that. As such, I decided I needed to make my own bracket. I cut the ears off using my band saw (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08SK9W4Q5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1), sanded them smooth with the belt sander (https://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-x-36-in-belt-and-6-in-disc-sander-58339.html), and purchased 1/8" (I thought 1/16" would be too flimsy, but 1/8" worked well) L-channel from Lowe's (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-1-1-2-in-W-x-1-1-2-in-H-x-8-ft-L-Mill-Finished-Aluminum-Solid-Angle/3058175).

My initial thought was to drill through the Factory Five-provided brackets and then mount them to the L-channel (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-1-1-2-in-W-x-1-1-2-in-H-x-8-ft-L-Mill-Finished-Aluminum-Solid-Angle/3058175) using 1/4" flathead screws and lock nuts. However, I was concerned that this could result in some movement. Since this was going to be installed through the top panel, I decided to drill and tap the holes—meaning the screw would go through the provided brackets and then be held to the L-channel (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-1-1-2-in-W-x-1-1-2-in-H-x-8-ft-L-Mill-Finished-Aluminum-Solid-Angle/3058175) with a lock nut.

After this, I used the band saw to eliminate the material required for the reservoirs to be installed on the L-channel, and cleaned that up with the belt sander (https://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-x-36-in-belt-and-6-in-disc-sander-58339.html) (don't have a picture with it done but here is the pre completed picture to illustrate):

You’ll notice that the spacing on the brackets isn’t consistent. This was intentional to make it obvious which is for the front and rear brakes and which is for the clutch.

I then determined where the reservoirs and bracket would mount and drilled holes for future 3/8" rivet mounting. Make sure there’s enough room to get a drill bit and rivet tool in there. Also, ensure the bracket is installed low enough to allow for engine vibration, even when it's in place.

Once held in with Clecos (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08VRZV7JZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1), I used a 2.5" hole drill bit to drill through a piece of 3/4" plywood. I then used the round piece of plywood as a guide by placing it into each reservoir mounting bracket and drilling a pilot hole through the top panel. Once the pilot hole was completed, I used the same hole cutting bit to drill the hole large enough for the reservoirs to poke through the panel. It came out AWESOME! - obviously they will be installed level but will work on that during the final installation process:

My original plan was to do a round-over punch, but the holes were too close together for that to work. I’m thinking about using some sort of ring around them—possibly stainless or something similar—but have been unable to find something that works. Suggestions would be greatly appreciated! For now, check this box as done.

You've made quite a bit of progress since the summer. Looking good!

I'm also planning to use the F5 supplied reservoirs (three total as well). Thanks for the write-up on how you got them to fit in that space forward of the left FB. I would like to do the same. Great tips!

wedel456

11-26-2024, 04:39 PM

My LED lighting plan essentially copies @EdwardB (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=311486&viewfull=1#post311486):

Headlights - I will be using the Watson Streetworks Vision Plus Lenses and H4 LED bulbs package. (https://watsons-streetworks.com/product/led-headlights/?attribute_size=7%22+Round+H4+LED+Headlights+%2825 101%29)
Fog Lights - Have not purchased them yet; however, I cannot find ones that I like more (waiting for a Black Friday deal). I will be using the KC Gravity LED G4. (https://www.kchilites.com/4-gravity-led-fog-light-pair-pack-system.html?srsltid=AfmBOoqJjg0nz2MiXc7KCAVEU1B7es ZKsokT2SFbsYe_XAXCX3Ryo_7e). As documented in the Switch Panel (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568511&viewfull=1#post568511) and Thought Capsule: Relays (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568546&viewfull=1#post568546) posts, this will be powered via the headlight switch, can only be turned on when the headlights are on, and will be controlled by a SPST switch on the Toggle Switch Panel (https://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerce.com/toggle-switch-panels/).
Front Marker Lights - Using the FF kit provided lights.
Rear Brake and Parking Lights - Using the FF kit provided lights.
License Plate Light - I will use the light fixture provided in the FF kit but replace the bulb with one purchased from a MAL-S-WW2 (https://www.superbrightleds.com/miniature-led-license-plate-bolt-stud-mount-pigtail-connection) LED license plate bolt from Super Bright LEDs.
Reverse Lights - I will be adding two reverse lights to below the brake and parking lights. They will be powered via the reverse switch in the TKX transmission piggy backing off the TAN-Choke feed from the Ron Francis. I am going to the Watson Streetworks 6-LED Interior and Marker Lights, L96 Series (https://watsons-streetworks.com/product/6-led-interior-and-marker-lights/?attribute_color=White+LED’s%2FClear+Lens) with White LED and Clear Lenses.
Courtesy Lights - As docuemented in the Instrument Panel Planning and Related Items post (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568373&viewfull=1#post568373), there will be a courtesy light installed the dash corners on both sides of the dash. I am using the Watson Streetworks L86 1″ Auto Interior LED (https://watsons-streetworks.com/product/3-led-interior-and-marker-lights-l86/?attribute_color=White+LEDs%2FClear+Lens) Light with a white LED and clear Lens.
Dash Lights:

Fan Light - Watson Streetworks Small Chrome Low Profile LED Indicators (https://watsons-streetworks.com/product/small-chrome-low-profile-led-indicators/) - 240 Series in Amber
E-Brake Light - Watson Streetworks Small Chrome Low Profile LED Indicators (https://watsons-streetworks.com/product/small-chrome-low-profile-led-indicators/) - 240 Series in Red

I have to look at the requirements of NC; however, unless it is 100 percent required I do not plan on doing a third brake light. If it is required, I really like the finished look of the FormaCars Center Brake Light (https://www.formacars.com/product/type-65-center-brake-light/) and would go that direction. Would require zero customization and has a more OE look.

wedel456

11-27-2024, 11:25 AM

I’ve spent countless hours planning the electrical setup for this build. At first, it seemed overwhelming, but now I’m confident it’s achievable. The key challenge will be making everything look as clean and organized as possible. I have a plan (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568540&viewfull=1#post568540) to achieve this, but the real test will be in the execution.

After reviewing multiple builds, I decided early on to place the fuse panel in the same location as @EdwardB (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-5-000-Mile-Report&p=309365&viewfull=1#post309365) did in his build. This location provides excellent accessibility while keeping the wiring hidden and tidy. However, to make it work, additional support for the Ron Francis fuse panel bracket is necessary.

To provide this support, I cut a piece of aluminum L-channel (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-1-1-2-in-W-x-1-1-2-in-H-x-8-ft-L-Mill-Finished-Aluminum-Solid-Angle/3058175) to the width of the bracket, plus one extra inch. The additional inch allowed me to fold the end back on itself to create a secure mounting point for attaching it to the back of the frame rail under the dash. The portion of the bracket will be connected to the frame rail using 1/8 SS rivets (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/item/Pop-Rivets-1-8-304-Stainless-Steel).

Next, I drilled holes for 1/8" SS rivets (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/item/Pop-Rivets-1-8-304-Stainless-Steel) along the edge of the Ron Francis bracket to ensure it could be securely connected to the underside of the frame rail (yes, I know 5 are way overkill). Before installing the L-channel (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-1-1-2-in-W-x-1-1-2-in-H-x-8-ft-L-Mill-Finished-Aluminum-Solid-Angle/3058175) onto the Ron Francis bracket using 1/8 SS rivets (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/item/Pop-Rivets-1-8-304-Stainless-Steel), I had to cut out a portion of the L-channel (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-1-1-2-in-W-x-1-1-2-in-H-x-8-ft-L-Mill-Finished-Aluminum-Solid-Angle/3058175)to allow the fuse panel to slide into place without interference. The L-channel (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-1-1-2-in-W-x-1-1-2-in-H-x-8-ft-L-Mill-Finished-Aluminum-Solid-Angle/3058175) is ~3/4 inch off the edge of the Ron Francis bracket to allow it to be mounted to the rail. This modification ensures a seamless and snug fit.

206892

With the bracket properly supported and reinforced, the fuse panel will have a solid mounting base, ensuring stability and easy access while maintaining a clean, professional look.

206893

The bracket was powder coated (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568368&viewfull=1#post568368) with the rest of the panels. More to come when I cover the electrical installation portion of my build.

JimStone

11-27-2024, 04:12 PM

wedel456

11-27-2024, 04:48 PM

As I listed in "The Build (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=554593&viewfull=1#post554593)" post, my kit came with the Halibrand 18" wheels, and they look great! As I prepare to get the roller phase of the build, I set out to look for tires. Obviously my first stop was the forum and "The Daytona Wheel and Tire Repository (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?41600-The-Daytona-Wheel-and-Tire-Repository)". After reviewing my options I decided to move forward with the BFGoodrich Rival series:

Front - P275/35/R18 (https://www.discounttire.com/buy-tires/bfgoodrich-g-force-rival-s-1-5/p/89372)
Rear - P315/30/R18 (https://www.discounttire.com/buy-tires/bfgoodrich-g-force-rival-s-1-5/p/89367)

After looking around for the best pricing, I decided to order the tires from Discount Tire (https://www.discounttire.com). The only other option that I had to decide on was to go with the newer Rival S 1.5 or stick with the last model Rival S[/URL]. Discount Tire (https://www.discounttire.com/) had both on their site. After talking with them and comparing the two models, it appears that the only real difference between the two models is the side wall construction. The newer 1.5 have a stiffer sidewall. I am not going to track this car (my wife already denied that request) so I decided to save some money at go with the Rival S and pulled the trigger.

I ended up getting a call from the Manager of the local Discount Tire (https://www.discounttire.com/) who stated that even though they were available online that they would not be able to source them. However, after some back and forth he upgraded the order to the Rival S 1.5 for the same price (could not believe the deal).

206896 206898

The back tires are huge. Here is a picture that gives an idea of the width:

206897

Discount Tires (https://www.discounttire.com/) was going to charge me to install stems so I decided to get a TPMS system (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X575DWQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)for essential the same charge. I decided to do this after watching the video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_sSwKCSQiiQ) from @RSnake when he installed them on his car. I will not mount the display unit but can pull it out when I am interested in checking the tire pressure.

While I have yet to put them on the car, I am confident that they will fit and fill the wheel wells perfectly. They are a tried and true combo, especially with the 1" spacer in the rear (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568286&viewfull=1#post568286), including on @EdwardB's build (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-5-000-Mile-Report&p=405723&viewfull=1#post405723).

wedel456

11-27-2024, 08:42 PM

Lots of thoughtful planning with the electrical.

That's the part that makes me the most nervous. I just get overwhelmed thinking about it. I'll need to sit down and plan it out like you did, draw some diagrams, and break it down into individual steps.

@jimstone, I built my last house and did all the electrical. I think that gave me the confidence (maybe overconfidence, we will see) on this project. If want to bounce ideas, PM me.

wedel456

11-29-2024, 03:19 PM

Relay Boxes Setup:
Clutch and Safety Switch Relay – This will allow the car to start (and turn off)by either having the clutch or transmission safety switch to be engaged. Yes, both are the same thing but wanted some redundancy just in case one was to fail. Did not want to get stuck. I’m still working on the wiring for this one, as I don’t want the full starter switch wire power to go through this relay (if possible) and do not want to connect this directly to the battery. This is even more difficult because the default setup for the Digital Guard Dawg PBS-1 (https://www.jegs.com/i/Digital-Guard-Dawg/657/PBSIO/10002/-1) requires the brake to be pressed BEFORE the car will crank and BEFORE the car is turned off. Suggestions are welcome!

Lately, I've been dedicating some time and mental "compute power" to figuring out how to make the Digital Guard Dawg PBS (https://www.jegs.com/i/Digital-Guard-Dawg/657/PBSIO/10002/-1) work seamlessly with only the Clutch/Neutral Safety Switch through a relay. During my research, I stumbled across the Clutch Control Switch (https://www.digitalguarddawg.com/keyless-ignition/automotive-accessories/clutch-control-switch) from Digital Guard Dawg. The description on their site states:

"It allows you to start your vehicle by simply depressing the clutch and pressing the start button, eliminating the need to press the brake pedal."

Intrigued, I thought this could be exactly what I needed. However, their website lacked detailed wiring instructions, which left me with more questions than answers.

To clarify, I decided to contact their tech support, and I discovered some interesting details that might help others looking to install a PBS system (https://www.jegs.com/i/Digital-Guard-Dawg/657/PBSIO/10002/-1):

Accessory Functions Identically as Clutch Safety Switch - The clutch control switch accessory operates exactly like the clutch safety switch already in use. I guess this is for cars that do not already have this type of solution installed in the vehicle. Their recommended install for this accessory would be to run a relay (their preferred solution) powered by the battery or to run the battery directly though the unit connected to the Brown (brake (+)) accessory feed on the PBS (https://www.jegs.com/i/Digital-Guard-Dawg/657/PBSIO/10002/-1) thus allowing the Brown brake feed to receive power (allowing the car to crank when the start button is pushed) when the clutch is engaged.
Brake Pedal Not Required (*with conditions) - Contrary to the directions, you do not need to press the brake pedal to start or stop the PBS (https://www.jegs.com/i/Digital-Guard-Dawg/657/PBSIO/10002/-1) system. This is especially important for those, like me, who are wiring the system to work through a relay (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568546&viewfull=1#post568546) connected to the clutch safety switch, rather than routing the crank signal directly through the clutch safety switch itself. See below for more information on this.
Constant Brake Power Not Allowed:

You cannot run a constant feed to the brake input on the PBS (https://www.jegs.com/i/Digital-Guard-Dawg/657/PBSIO/10002/-1).
Under normal operation, the PBS (https://www.jegs.com/i/Digital-Guard-Dawg/657/PBSIO/10002/-1) detects that the car is running when the brake pedal is pressed, and the car is started. If you feed constant power to the brake input, the system will behave unpredictably. Specifically, when you press the PBS button to stop the car, it would attempt to start the car again. This is a critical detail to ensure proper functionality.

As such, I have decided to continue to use the relay functionality allowing the car to start (and turn off) by either having the clutch or transmission safety switch to be engaged but wire the relay in the following way:

30 - 87 from PBS (https://www.jegs.com/i/Digital-Guard-Dawg/657/PBSIO/10002/-1) Enabled (see Thought Capsule: Relays (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568546&viewfull=1#post568546) post)
85 - Ground from Clutch and/or Safety Switch
86 - 87 from PBS (https://www.jegs.com/i/Digital-Guard-Dawg/657/PBSIO/10002/-1) Enabled (see Thought Capsule: Relays (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568546&viewfull=1#post568546) post)
87 - Brown Brake (+) (from the accessory harness) on PBS (https://www.jegs.com/i/Digital-Guard-Dawg/657/PBSIO/10002/-1)

By wiring the relay (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568546&viewfull=1#post568546) in this fashion, the relay (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568546&viewfull=1#post568546) will only work when a key is within range of the PBS (https://www.jegs.com/i/Digital-Guard-Dawg/657/PBSIO/10002/-1), while allowing the car to be started or stopped without requiring the brake to be pressed when the clutch is engaged OR the TKX is in neutral (via the neutral safety switch). Additionally, this would prevent anyone from accidentally starting the car by pushing the start button for 5 seconds without the clutch engaged or the TKX in neutral.

wedel456

12-05-2024, 04:37 PM

I’m excited to share that I’ve picked up the first batch of upholstery for the build! This included:

The Dash
The Transmission Tunnel Top Front
The three custom panels under the dash (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=554591&viewfull=1#post554591):

Drivers side kick panel
Passengers side kick panel
The panel directly under the driver's side dash)

As I discussed in the Panel Finishing and Off to the Upholsterer (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568549&viewfull=1#post568549) post, I added foam to the transmission tunnel top front cover to match the transmission tunnel top rear cover (the arm rest panel). With that in mind, I knew I’d need to double-check the fitment of the custom switch panel (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568511&viewfull=1#post568511). It’s a good thing I held off on getting that piece upholstered because I had to trim a significant amount off—around 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch.

To make the adjustment, I used my belt sander (https://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-x-36-in-belt-and-6-in-disc-sander-58339.html), carefully removing a little material at a time and checking the fit on the car after each pass. I also had a sample piece of the vinyl on hand, which I used to ensure that once the switch panel was wrapped, it would still fit correctly.

It will be a little tight, but that’s probably a good thing. The snug fit will prevent the panel from creating an indentation in the foam on the transmission tunnel top front, while also providing some extra support for the middle of the dash.

Once the engine and transmission arrive, I’ll be able to confirm that no further adjustments to the transmission tunnel top rear cover (the arm rest panel) will be necessary (as I currently expect). Once that’s verified, I’ll send both the switch panel and transmission tunnel top rear cover (the arm rest panel) off to the upholsterer to finish the process.

Of course, I couldn’t resist getting the newly upholstered pieces on the car to see how they look—and boy, do they look sweet! Seeing it all come together like this is incredibly rewarding. You have these visions in your head about how things are going to turn out but nothing matches seeing it come to fruition:

207172 207173

With the transmission tunnel top front cover in place (this is the key piece where the wiring harness exits the cockpit to the front and rear of the car), I can officially start the real process of wiring the car.

I already have a solid plan in mind (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568540&viewfull=1#post568540) and have started laying out the wiring paths, but now I can dive into the details—dieting the harness and terminating connections where needed. This is where the plan transitions into execution, and I’m excited to see it come together.

460.465USMC

12-09-2024, 03:59 PM

Appreciate all the time you're putting into documentation of your build. There are a number of helpful ideas I noted. Keep up the good work!

I had the exact same experience with the Rival S 1.5 tires at Discount Tires this past Spring. (Quite surprised they still haven't removed the earlier version from their online inventory).

PNWTim

12-14-2024, 11:36 AM

I just read through your thread this morning. You have a lot of innovative ideas and great documentation. Please keep it up and looking forward to following along.

wedel456

12-20-2024, 05:13 PM

When it came to the driveshaft safety loop for the build, I explored several options before settling on one from Summit Racing (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g7900). Originally, I planned to use the version from Jegs (https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/60662/10002/-1), but it was out of stock when I placed my order, so Summit's option (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g7900) won out.

One challenge I faced during the installation was the length of the mounting ears on the unit—they were quite long. To make it fit properly with my chassis, I needed to trim them down. I positioned the loop approximately 4.75 inches from the final back bar on the lower part of the transmission tunnel. This placement aligns closely with the back of the inside seatbelt tabs on both the driver and passenger sides. Once I had it lined up, I trimmed the ears to match the "X" of the chassis, ensuring a snug and secure fit. Please note: the driveshaft safety loop (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g7900) is *not* perfectly centered. I needed to temp install the driveshaft to ensure there was enough space for it to fit and spin. The driveshaft is *much* closer on the passenger side.

I couldn’t see myself having bolts poking through the bottom of the chassis, so I decided to use heavy-duty 5/16-inch rivnuts (https://www.mcmaster.com/92982A210/) instead. These were paired with yellow zinc 5/16-inch bolts (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/product-display.html?Product_Code=1904-004-0032), washers (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Flat-Washers-SAE-Thru-Hardened-Yellow-Zinc-p/1090-006.htm?v_code=1090-006-0012), and split ring washers (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/product-display.html?Product_Code=1090-066-0012) to ensure everything stays tight and secure. This approach not only kept the bottom of the chassis clean but also made for a robust and professional installation.

To finish things off, I added a coat of Rust-Oleum Appliance Epoxy (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Specialty-12-oz-Appliance-Epoxy-Gloss-Black-Spray-Paint-7886830/100141519?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D24-024_003_SPRAY_PAINT-NA-Multi-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-FY21_SprayPaint_PLALIA_BHU24&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D24-024_003_SPRAY_PAINT-NA-Multi-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-FY21_SprayPaint_PLALIA_BHU24-11615791136-111099525017-298368042926&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADq61UdvVQARNmtUNKQrJ8fzxTsNn&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvsSU8a23igMVwm5_AB2bmDLiEAQYBCAB EgLSk_D_BwE) from Home Depot that matches the Factory Five black chassis powder coating. This gave it a clean and durable finish. Project completed!

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*just noticed somehow I did not install a washer on the first bolt..... Will need to fix that.

wedel456

12-20-2024, 05:39 PM

As part of the preparation for final panel installation, I’ve been focusing on polishing the stainless steel rivets to achieve the clean, polished look I want for the build. The process not only enhances their aesthetic but also aligns with the attention to detail I’m aiming for in every component of this car.

For the rivets, I will be using stainless steel rivets from Albany County Fasteners (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com):

1/8 x 1/8 (0.063-0.125) (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/product-display.html?Product_Code=11930018): These are used for panel-to-panel connections, ensuring a tight, seamless fit.
1/8 x 3/8 (0.313-0.375) (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/product-display.html?Product_Code=11930082): These are reserved for panel-to-chassis connections, providing the extra strength needed to secure the panels to the frame.

The Polishing Process
To polish the rivets, I’m using a bench grinder (https://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-x-36-in-belt-and-6-in-disc-sander-58339.html) with a polishing pad (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BGV23GK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1) installed. The polishing process involves two steps using the following products:

Meguiar’s M110 Heavy Cut Compound: (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Meguiar-s-M110-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Pro-Speed-Compound-Heavy-Cut-High-Gloss-M11032-32-oz/628595057)

This first step removes any surface imperfections and creates a smooth base for further polishing.

White Diamond Metal Polish: (https://www.walmart.com/ip/White-Diamond-Metal-Polish-with-Long-Lasting-Sealant-12-FL-Oz/49306278)

The second step refines the surface, leaving a mirror-like finish that brings out the shine in the stainless steel.

Each rivet goes through two passes in each compound/polish, ensuring a consistent and high-quality finish. While I initially thought I might only need one of these products, the difference after both phases is significant, making the extra effort well worth it.

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The rivet to the left is the as shipped, the middle is after two passes with Meguiars (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Meguiar-s-M110-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Pro-Speed-Compound-Heavy-Cut-High-Gloss-M11032-32-oz/628595057) (the picture does not do the rivet at this point justice as to my eye it looked really good at that time before seeing the next step), the one to the right is the finished product after to polish runs with the White Diamond (https://www.walmart.com/ip/White-Diamond-Metal-Polish-with-Long-Lasting-Sealant-12-FL-Oz/49306278). At this point, all the rivets sparkle.

The Results
The polished rivets not only stand out visually but also complement the black powder-coated panels (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568368&viewfull=1#post568368) perfectly. The contrast between the polished stainless steel and the black coating will create a striking and refined look, emphasizing the craftsmanship in the build.

With the rivets polished and ready, the next step will be finalizing the panel installations. These steps mark steady progress toward the exciting milestone of the engine delivery early next year.

Stay tuned for more updates on the build as it all starts to come together!

wedel456

12-22-2024, 09:13 AM

After months of preparation and countless hours of work, I’ve officially started installing the first panels on the car! This milestone is a major step forward, and it’s amazing to see the build truly start to take shape. The polished rivets (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207794&d=1734734241) really pop with the black powder coating.

I know I am not following the manual at this point; however, the plan is to install the panels that are only required for the engine installation. This will allow me to have all the access needed to get to brake and fuel lines while providing the hand space to get the transmission into place. Once the engine is in and tested I will move forward with the rest of the paneling.

On the passenger side, I installed the following panels:

RIGHT FOOTBOX FRONT
FOOTBOX INSIDE UPPER WALL, RIGHT
FOOTBOX INSIDE LOWER WALL, RIGHT

On the drivers side, I installed the following panels:

LEFT FOOTBOX FRONT
LEFT FOOTBOX INSIDE LOWER WALL
FOOTBOX INSIDE UPPER WALL, LEFT

As I noted in my last post (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=570471&viewfull=1#post570471), for visible rivits am using 1/8 X 3/8 rivets (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/product-display.html?Product_Code=11930082) for the panel-to-frame mounting and 1/8 X 1/8 rivets (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/product-display.html?Product_Code=11930018) for the panel-to-panel. For non-visible rivets, I am using the 1/8 rivets included in the kit. While attaching the panels, I used GE Advanced Silicone 2 caulk (https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Advanced-Silicone-2-Caulk-10-1-oz-Window-and-Door-Sealant-Black-2813670/317804136) in black. I did end up ordering the pneumatic air riveter (Wadoy Pneumatic Air Riveter Pop Rivet Gun Tool Kit, with 1/4" 3/16" 5/32" 1/8" and 3/32" Nose Pieces, Heavy Duty Air Hydraulic Rivet Gun); however, I ended up doing these by using my Arrow swivel hand rivet tool (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Arrow-RHT300-Swivel-Head-Rivet-Tool-Black-Includes-4-Nose-Pieces-Automotive-Metal-Work-Canvas-Heavy-Duty-All-Steel-Construction/1194941) as it really is not too hard to get them done and you do not have the air line to deal with - it is really only the 3/16 stainless rivets that I cannot do by hand.

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I did not put any rivets or caulk (https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Advanced-Silicone-2-Caulk-10-1-oz-Window-and-Door-Sealant-Black-2813670/317804136) on the outside edges of the footbox covers nor on the cockpit side of the panels that attach to the frame inside the cockpit. This will allow me to install the engine while still allowing me to install the overlapping panels in the future.

Once I had all the required rivets in place I then filled all the gaps on both the passenger and drivers side panels with caulk. I also spent time caulking (https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Advanced-Silicone-2-Caulk-10-1-oz-Window-and-Door-Sealant-Black-2813670/317804136) the internal frame rails to the inside of each panel. While I will be ensuring that everything is enclosed with sound and heat deadening (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568532&viewfull=1#post568532) it is important that all the open areas are filled to keep water, air, and heat out of the cockpit area. It also provides a real finished look.

I am trilled with how everything turnout out. Very happy I went with the black powder coating (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568368&viewfull=1#post568368), too.

wedel456

12-22-2024, 08:16 PM

Today’s task was to finalize the wiring of the dash. And it looks awesome!

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As discussed in my earlier "Instrument Panel Planning and Related Items (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568373&viewfull=1#post568373)" post, the dash is a single piece with no separate instrument panel. Therefore, it was essential to ensure everything on the dash—gauges, courtesy lights (https://watsons-streetworks.com/product/3-led-interior-and-marker-lights-l86/?attribute_color=White+LEDs%2FClear+Lens), clock (https://speedhut.com/gauge-applications/revolution-racing-performance/led-lighting/performance-led-clock/2-5-8-clock/?dd-link=0lduumusytj), etc.—can be easily connected and disconnected from beneath.

To achieve this, I ensured that every connection utilized the harnesses provided in the Ron Francis, a Deutsch connector, or via heat shrink spade connectors (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BFDJNK91/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Additionally, to make things serviceable, I ensured there was a with a cable loop long enough to remove the gauge or light without having to take the dash apart and/or off.

When planning the dash layout, and before upholstery, (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568440&viewfull=1#post568440) I strategically placed plastic cable tie mounts (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CY7QJ479/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) throughout the back of the dash and behind the gauge locations. These mounts were secured with 6-32 flat screws (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/product-display.html?Product_Code=1700072) and nylon lock nuts (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/product-display.html?Product_Code=1102-081-0092), countersunk into the dash's front face. Afterward, I sanded them smooth using a belt sander (https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/sanders/stationary-belt-disc-sanders/4-in-x-36-in-belt-and-6-in-disc-sander-58339.html) and filled any remaining gaps with JB Weld (https://www.lowes.com/pd/J-B-WELD-10-oz-Pro-Size-Gray-Epoxy-Adhesive-Tube-2-Part-Cold-Weld-System-for-Multi-Use-Projects-Waterproof-Heat-Resistant-Sandable/5001749323), followed by hand sanding. This process ensured the dash's surface remained seamless, as there is no padding.

Wiring Notes:

Clock (https://speedhut.com/gauge-applications/revolution-racing-performance/led-lighting/performance-led-clock/2-5-8-clock/?dd-link=0lduumusytj) Wiring - The clock’s (https://speedhut.com/gauge-applications/revolution-racing-performance/led-lighting/performance-led-clock/2-5-8-clock/?dd-link=0lduumusytj) red (12+) wire is connected to one of the two Red-Speedo/Clock Memory feeds from the Ron Francis harness using heat shrink butt connectors. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CZQ3273C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
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Gauge Feed Line - For the two BRN-Guage Feeds from the Ron Francis harness, I divided the six gauges (the clock is connected differently) into two groups and connected them using two separate five-port lever nut connectors (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XBKRXMJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1).
Gauge Light Feed- I connected the lights for all six gauges and the clock to the gauge light feed from the Ron Francis harness using an eight-port lever nut connector (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XBKRXMJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1).
Horn (https://bpnorthwest.com/austin-healey/switch-starter-button/) Wiring - The horn is connected to the Ron Francis horn and horn ground feed via 90-degree spade connectors (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BFDJNK91/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and sealed with heat shrink (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CT88MHXQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1).
Speedhut Gauge Connections:

Water Temperature - A 12” section of the Speedhut Temperature Wiring Harness was cut. The white signal wire was connected via head shrink butt connectors (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CZQ3273C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to the DK-Blue-Water Temp feed from the Ron Francis harness with the ground sharing a ground with the gauges.
Fuel Gauge - A 12” section of the Speedhut Fuel Level Wiring Harness was cut. The white signal wire was connected via a heat shrink butt connector (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CZQ3273C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to the LT Green-Fuel Sender feed from the Ron Francis harness with the ground sharing a ground with the gauges
Oil Pressure - A 12” section of the Speedhut Pressure Wiring Harness was cut. The white signal wire was connected to the GRY-Oil Press feed from the Ron Francis harness via a heat shrink butt connector (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CZQ3273C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1). The Lt Blue-Oil Temp feed from the Ron Francis harness was used for the Red +5 Volt Reference feed from the Speedhut harness (as outlined in another forum post (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?35882-Vintage-Gauges-Oil-Pressure-sensor-wiring)) connected via a heat shrink butt connector (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CZQ3273C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1). The ground shares a ground with the gauges.
Additional Notes for Speedhut Connections:

Speedhut sensors and connectors were used on the opposite ends of each connection via a heat shrink butt connector (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CZQ3273C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1).
To ensure accuracy, all Speedhut wiring harness grounds were connected to a common ground, per their instructions.

Grounding Configuration:

Grounds from the Ron Francis harness were distributed across all dash grounding connections as there are numerous ground lines provided in the Dash Harness.
Reminder - For courtesy lights, the ground comes from the light switch, not the dash harness.

Additional Four-Port Deutsch Connector:

Courtesy Lights (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568560&viewfull=1#post568560) - Spade connectors (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BFDJNK91/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) were used for future serviceability. The two lights (one on each end of the dash) were connected using a heat shrink butt connector (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CZQ3273C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)to the other Red-Speedo/Clock Memory feed for power. The grounds were connected together via a heat shrink butt connector (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CZQ3273C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) with a feed line routed to a port on the Deutsch connector which will run to the GRY-Courtesy Light feed from the headlight switch.
High Beam Indicator - Since I am using the IDidIt Module (https://www.jegs.com/i/Ididit/535/3100006040/10002/-1) to control the headlights, the standard high/low beam harness was not run to the dash. Instead, a line was run from the blue wire on the back of the Speedo to a port on the Deutsch connector which will then connecting to the green wire on the IDidIt module (https://www.jegs.com/i/Ididit/535/3100006040/10002/-1).
Fan Light Indicator - A Small Chrome Low Profile LED Indicator (https://watsons-streetworks.com/product/small-chrome-low-profile-led-indicators/) (amber) from Watson Streetworks was installed to indicate when the fan is running. The ground is shared with the gauge grounds. The power wire is connected to the fan wire running from the fan relay to the fan.
E-Brake Indicator - A Small Chrome Low Profile LED Indicator (https://watsons-streetworks.com/product/small-chrome-low-profile-led-indicators/) (red) from Watson Streetworks was installed to indicate when the Wilwood electronic parking brake (EPB) (https://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/140-15978-RD/10002/-1) is engaged. The ground is connected to a Ron Francis ground, and the red (hot) wire is routed to a port on the Deutsch connector. The other end connects to the yellow feed on the Wilwood EPB (https://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/140-15978-RD/10002/-1).

Russ Thompson Turn Signal (http://www.norcal-cobras.com/store/russ_garage/t65/t65tss.html) Wiring - Since the turn signal is right below the dash, I decided to utilize the dash harness feeds that typically go to the hazard switch and the turn signal switch. I installed spade connectors on the GRY - Turn Flasher FD, the combined front/rear left turn (Dk Grn - Left FRT Turn and Yel-Left Rear Turn), and the combined front/rear right turn (Lt Blu-Riught FRT Turn and Whut-Right Rear Turn). These will connect to the respective connections on the Russ Thompson (http://www.norcal-cobras.com/store/russ_garage/t65/t65tss.html) allowing for easy serviceability and disconnection to remove the switch and/or dash.

Overall, the wiring behind the dash looks great, IMO; however, the service loop does make it look a little messy:
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MSumners

12-22-2024, 10:29 PM

wedel456

01-01-2025, 12:26 PM

Maybe you are already planning on adjusting the panels in this area but wanted to show the line where the aluminum sits. The end of your driveshaft loop base will interfere. The line here is the edge of the installed floor.

Thanks @MSumners! I did have an issue that required me to trim at the edges of the loop a little. A little more paint and things fit perfectly now:

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edwardb

01-02-2025, 10:11 AM

Just catching up with your build thread. Lots of nice work and detailed explanations. I like what you're doing. Two comments: First, not quite sure I'm following the "no brake pedal required" for the DGD pushbutton start. Aside from the technical aspects, from a practical standpoint (at least for me) having to push the brake pedal is exactly how our DD pushbutton start works. So it's normal and instinctive for me. Will be interesting to see how that works out. Second, that FormaCars top brake light looks interesting. But I'd be careful. The Coupe is already hard to see out of to the back and rear quarters. Even with a good center rear view mirror (I have an oversize one in my Coupe) you can only see a pretty narrow portion out the top of the rear window. Personally, I wouldn't want to see any of that blocked and that assembly looks like it might. IMO, something to look at before going that way. Continued good luck with your build. Our Coupe just finished its fourth season. Over the next couple days, will be finishing the oil change and annual maintenance getting it ready to come out of hibernation for next year's cruising season. Can't wait.

wedel456

01-02-2025, 10:49 AM

Just catching up with your build thread. Lots of nice work and detailed explanations. I like what you're doing.

Coming from you this has put a smile on my face!

First, not quite sure I'm following the "no brake pedal required" for the DGD pushbutton start. Aside from the technical aspects, from a practical standpoint (at least for me) having to push the brake pedal is exactly how our DD pushbutton start works. So it's normal and instinctive for me. Will be interesting to see how that works out.

I know you know this; however, for those who do not have experience with the product.... The PBS (https://www.jegs.com/i/Digital-Guard-Dawg/657/PBSIO/10002/-1) requires a 12+v going to the Brown wire coming from Accessory Harness. The power is typically run (in the Factory Five setup) by running a wire after the brake switch on the Pedal Box.

Now, while talking with Support at Digital Guard Dawg they stated that the PBS (https://www.jegs.com/i/Digital-Guard-Dawg/657/PBSIO/10002/-1) uses this for two purposes:

As an indication that the car is prepared to start (and the driver wants it to start).
As a way to track the state of the status of the car - as in it knows that the next press after start will be to turn off the car *after* the brake has been released (thus removing the +12v on the Brown brake wire on the Accessory Harness:

My guess is that this is why they have the 5 second override on the start button to turn off the car if there is a loss of state tracking of the status of the car.

In my setup, since I wanted to be able to start the car without the brake as long as the car is in neutral, I used a ground based relay using the clutch and neutral safety switch for redundancy that provides the +12v to the Brown wire on the Accessory Harness. While I do not have the engine (should hopefully ship in a week or so) I have fully tested the electrical system in my car (a post to follow shortly) and everything works perfectly and I am getting the ignition crank signal through the PBS (the Purple Start/Crank wire) with either the neutral switch and/or the clutch engaged.

As I put in the post (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568787&viewfull=1#post568787), Digital Guard Dawg does sell their own Clutch Control Switch (https://www.digitalguarddawg.com/keyless-ignition/automotive-accessories/clutch-control-switch) that does the same thing. Only their solution is just uses a pedal box mounted clutch safety switch but requires a +12V signal to run though it.

I did not want to have to push the brake every time the car is started while still ensuring it is safe to start the car (meaning the car is in neutral or the clutch is engaged). I have a safety light on the dash that shows the e-brake is on which will prevent the car from moving.

Second, that FormaCars top brake light looks interesting. But I'd be careful. The Coupe is already hard to see out of to the back and rear quarters. Even with a good center rear view mirror (I have an oversize one in my Coupe) you can only see a pretty narrow portion out the top of the rear window. Personally, I wouldn't want to see any of that blocked and that assembly looks like it might. IMO, something to look at before going that way. Continued good luck with your build.
Yeah, I have heard that a lot. I *highly* doubt I am going to do a third light *and* I plan on using a camera based mirror.

Our Coupe just finished its fourth season. Over the next couple days, will be finishing the oil change and annual maintenance getting it ready to come out of hibernation of next year's cruising season. Can't wait.

Very jealous. Will be there soon, hopefully!

wedel456

01-02-2025, 01:18 PM

Now that the drivers side footbox front is installed, I was able to get to the brake and clutch reseviours (https://www.factoryfiveparts.com/34168-brake-reservoir-components/) to mount them permamently. In a past post (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568231&viewfull=1#post568231) I documented where I decided to place them and how the bracket was developed.

Polishing:
To start, I polished the brackets for the resivours. I utilized the same process for the panel rivets (Rivet Preparation and Polishing):

The Polishing Process
To polish the rivets, I’m using a bench grinder (https://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-x-36-in-belt-and-6-in-disc-sander-58339.html) with a polishing pad (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BGV23GK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1) installed. The polishing process involves two steps using the following products:

Meguiar’s M110 Heavy Cut Compound: (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Meguiar-s-M110-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Pro-Speed-Compound-Heavy-Cut-High-Gloss-M11032-32-oz/628595057)

This first step removes any surface imperfections and creates a smooth base for further polishing.

White Diamond Metal Polish: (https://www.walmart.com/ip/White-Diamond-Metal-Polish-with-Long-Lasting-Sealant-12-FL-Oz/49306278)

The second step refines the surface, leaving a mirror-like finish that brings out the shine in the stainless steel.

Each rivet goes through two passes in each compound/polish, ensuring a consistent and high-quality finish. While I initially thought I might only need one of these products, the difference after both phases is significant, making the extra effort well worth it.

Unlike the rivets, there is a huge difference between the Meguiar’s (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Meguiar-s-M110-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Pro-Speed-Compound-Heavy-Cut-High-Gloss-M11032-32-oz/628595057) and the White Diamond Metal Polish (https://www.walmart.com/ip/White-Diamond-Metal-Polish-with-Long-Lasting-Sealant-12-FL-Oz/49306278):

The left bracket and screws are before any work was done.
The middle bracket and screws are after the Meguiar’s (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Meguiar-s-M110-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Pro-Speed-Compound-Heavy-Cut-High-Gloss-M11032-32-oz/628595057).
The right bracket and screws are after Meguiar’s (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Meguiar-s-M110-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Pro-Speed-Compound-Heavy-Cut-High-Gloss-M11032-32-oz/628595057) and White Diamond Metal Polish (https://www.walmart.com/ip/White-Diamond-Metal-Polish-with-Long-Lasting-Sealant-12-FL-Oz/49306278).

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While approx 0% of people will ever see them, I just could not install them as they were with my anal retentive brain.

I then progressed to the reservoirs (https://www.factoryfiveparts.com/34168-brake-reservoir-components/) themselves and boy did they polish to a mirror finish using the same process:

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Bracket and Reservoir Installation:
For the bracket that mounts to the frame, I could not for the life of me get my rivet gun to correctly complete a 3/16 stainless rivet. It says that it can but not sure if I am doing something wrong. Ergo, I decided just to use 3/16 aluminum rivets provided as part of the kit. I did polish them using the same process as the stainless and they turned out fairly good (not as good but good).

Once the bracket was connected to the frame I mounted the reservoirs (https://www.factoryfiveparts.com/34168-brake-reservoir-components/) using the 1/4 flathead polished screws (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-1-4-in-20-x-1-in-Slotted-Drive-Machine-Screws-4-Count/3035944), a washer (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-16-Count-x-3-4-in-Zinc-Plated-Standard-SAE-Flat-Washer/3035987), and a locknut (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-1-4-in-Zinc-Plated-Standard-SAE-Nylon-Insert-Lock-Nut/3058721). Came out awesome, especially when I placed the engine bay covers on the car. The contrast between the black and the polished reservoirs makes things pop:
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wedel456

01-02-2025, 02:58 PM

Steering Shaft Installation:
With the front footbox cover in place, I moved on to what I hope will be the final installation of the full steering column. This step brought some unexpected challenges but also a satisfying sense of progress as everything came together and as I am getting closer to go carting my hand built car.

Before installation, I noticed that some of the pieces were a bit dull and showing early signs of rust. To address this, I gave them a polish using the same process I described in my previous posts about rivets. While the results weren’t mirror-shiny, they definitely looked much better and will hold up better over time.

Additionally, I polished the outer cover of the flange bearing along with the button-head screws. These small details might seem trivial, but they really elevate the overall look of the build.

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I did not install the upper column as I am worried that it will get stuck as it happened to me before and it took some effort to get out even though I did not install the spring washers. I inserted the upper column into the shaft, stopping just before the spring washers' location. Once that was done I was able to test the steering to make sure it turned without binding. Everything tested perfectly so I ensure all the 5/16 recesses were perfect and locked everything down.

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Reversing the Footbox Bearing
One hiccup I encountered was accidentally installing the bearing in the front of the footbox backward. After securing the front footbox cover with 1/8-inch stainless rivets (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/product-display.html?Product_Code=11930018), I realized the mistake and initially panicked, thinking I’d have to drill out the rivets. Fortunately, I discovered that the bearing can be reversed even after installation—a huge relief!

wedel456

01-02-2025, 03:31 PM

Pedal Box Installation:

With all the panels (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=570591&viewfull=1#post570591) required to install the engine now in place and covered with sound and heat deadening material (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568532&viewfull=1#post568532), and as I anxiously await the delivery of my engine, I decided it was time to install the pedal box for the last time.

I won’t go into too much detail about the installation since it’s been thoroughly documented in other threads and, for the most part, was straightforward. That said, it would have been vastly easier to install before the panels were in place, as the lack of space made this process far more challenging.

However, I anticipated some issues with pedal height and the clutch and brake switches, which I’ll address in this post.

Here is the project completed with a few items to note:

As I documented in my thread (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568297&viewfull=1#post568297) during the mockup, I could not use the kit provided top mount bracket. I had to make my own, IMO. See this post (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568297&viewfull=1#post568297) for more information on the issue.
I do not have the Wilwood master cylinder for the clutch as of yet as it comes with my engine package.

208466

Issues:

The pedal height was way off in its initial position—far too close to the driver seat. At 6' to 6'1", I wouldn’t have been able to drive the car comfortably in this configuration. To fix this, I spent a significant amount of time adjusting the set screw to bring the pedals to a reasonable height. Unfortunately, the limited space made this task frustrating, as getting a wrench into the right position to turn the screw is nearly impossible. As seen in the below, I ended up threading the set screw all the way in. While this adjustment improved the pedal position, I’m concerned it might cause issues with hitting the custom footwell panel (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568339&viewfull=1#post568339)I made and covered in vinyl (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568368&viewfull=1#post568368) and may interfere with the pedal’s range of motion and with #2 below.
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The manual shows drilling the 3/16" hole for the brake and clutch switches from the master cylinder side of the pedal box. This makes sense because there’s no room to drill from the other side. However, when you install the switches, the brackets go on the opposite side of the pedal box mounting location. I can only assume this is due to the length of the switches, as it’s not explicitly addressed in the instructions. Regardless, the tight space made removing and reinstalling the unit a challenge. I had to enlarge the hole in the mounting bracket to align the screw hole with the pre-drilled hole in the pedal box. Even after repositioning the brackets to the other side, the switches still didn’t seem long enough to activate properly.

Next Steps:
At this stage, I can’t verify if the switches will function correctly. I’ll need to wait until the brakes are bled and the clutch master cylinder is installed to test them fully.

Advise Anyone?
If any taller Coupe owners can speak to the pedal height issue it would be great!

edwardb

01-03-2025, 12:01 AM

Advise Anyone?
If any taller Coupe owners can speak to the pedal height issue it would be great!

You won't have any issues with the travel required for the brake pedal. It's only several inches and will stop well short of your back wall. If you don't get full clutch release with the pedal pushed all the way to the back wall, you can adjust the clutch master cylinder size to require less pedal. At the expense of slightly more effort.

wedel456

01-08-2025, 08:50 AM

Progressed with checking things off the list before the engine arrives. As such, today I finished the mounting of all A/C and heater equipment. I have already tested the electrical portion of this (more on this in another forthcoming post); however, I had to mounted everything, until today.

Heater Control Valve:
As I documented in my A/C – Heater – Defroster Installation and Mockup of Lines (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568486&viewfull=1#post568486)post, I never liked where the manual says it should be placed. I wanted a clean engine bay. As such, I decided not go with the little patch lines running from the back of the evaporator to the bulk head connector and just connected it directly to the evaporator. It is a tight fit but it does fit and I confirmed that the grommets (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09K5GNFHF?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_1) will work (with a little red grease) and that hose will connect to the control valve:

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I have not cut the top hose yet because I am not sure about the length. Once I have the engine installed I will cut the hose to length and connect the bottom return port.

I also installed the Thermotion controller box that controls the heater control valve on the outer frame rail above the evaporator. This is mounted using 10-32 stainless flange head screws (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Button-Flange-Socket-Head-10-32-Screw-Stainless-p/56000.htm) and 10-32 rivnuts (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Ribbed-Rivet-Nut-Aluminium/1600-014.htm):

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Trinary Switch and Dryer:
I installed the A/C Trinary Switch and Dryer on the inside passenger side engine bay frame rail about half way between the footbox and the top of the radiator with just enough room to clear the front wheel rear inside splash guard. I had previously powder coated the brackets and utilized a black stainless steel clamp. It is attached to the rail using 3/16 stainless steel rivets (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/product-display.html?Product_Code=11950050).

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For those of you that have the same question: my kit came with a different dryer than what is in the instructions - a Vintage Air 07321-VUC. (https://vintageair.com/standard-drier/) I had to ask the question (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?50541-AC-Dryer-Flow-Direction&highlight=dryer) about which way the flow of the A/C system worked just to confirm as the dryer is directional. As confirmed by @BornWestUSA (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?50541-AC-Dryer-Flow-Direction&p=571761&viewfull=1#post571761), the direction flows from the bottom of the condenser, through the dryer, then to the bottom of the bulkhead bracket.

A/C Bulkhead and Inside Hose:
Last item I checked off the list was placing the A/C bulkhead fitting and ensured the hoses and fittings I prepped previously still fit. I cut and polished the bulkhead fitting just like I did all the other polishing - has a great finish on it. The hoses I mocked up previously did have to be trimmed a little but are now in place.

208741 208740

wedel456

01-08-2025, 09:47 AM

While I will post another update on everything under the dash, as it has been done for a few weeks now, I spent some time this weekend cleaning up the main power runs along with the front and rear harnesses.

Products Used:

Convoluted Tubing:

3/4 Inch (https://www.ebay.com/itm/166749477137)
1 Inch (https://www.ebay.com/itm/153249342321)
I also used other tubing provided as part of the kit and/or Ron Francis wiring harness.

Clamps:
These are mounted using 10-32 stainless steel button head screws (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Button-Flange-Socket-Head-10-32-Screw-Stainless-p/56000.htm) and rivnuts (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Ribbed-Rivet-Nut-Aluminium/1600-014.htm).

1 Inch clamps (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B1GXHTHS?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title)for the 3/4 inch tubing
1 1/4 Inch clamps (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B1H8BZP8?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title) for the 1 inch tubing
I also used the clamps provided as part of the kit for the smaller tubing; however, I will be getting matching clamps when I have a total count and sizing.

Tape:

As you can see in some of the locations where I was positive I would not need any additional wires, I have used non-adhesive wiring harness tape (https://www.ebay.com/itm/186743076490) to get an OEM look. Looking around this is the most expensive tape known to man; however, I was able to find it relatively inexpensive on eBay. Based upon what I have used so far, I am assuming I will use 300 feet. Once I am sure that all the wiring is in the right place (I do not have my CDI box nor my rear view camera as of yet so there are a few more wires that will be required) I will wrap all the visible areas in this same tape.
For locations where tubing combines I want to provide some strength. Since I did not want to use sticky electrical tape in the harness, I purchased cloth friction wire harness tape (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B87FT2ZP?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title). It will be used in a very limited fashion.

Main Power:

Power (+) Cable:

Runs along the passenger side frame rail and terminates on the master shutoff on the Right (passenger) Cockpit Trans Side panel at the master shutoff.

Grounding:

Runs along the front frame rail and terminates in a 3/8 taped hole at the front passenger side of the car using a 3/8-16 flange head screw (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/product-display.html?Product_Code=12140002).
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Front Harness and Sending Units Harnesses
Overall, the two harnesses are split down the passenger and drivers frame rail depending on the location on where they are needed.
208744

Passenger side frame rail:

Starter Battery and Solenoid Wiring:

For main starter power, I have a 4 AWG (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08Y7BFW82/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) cable running from the switch side of the master disconnect.
208745

The solenoid cable is coiled with the main power for the starter.
A separate ground will be installed for the starter when I install the engine.

Drivers side frame rail:

All sending unit wiring is coiled at the drivers side motor mount. I need the engine before I can determine where things are placed.
Drivers/Passenger Lighting and Radiator Fan:

The drivers lighting package wiring (including the addition of the fog light wiring) splits at the front corner of the driver side and continues out to the outside corner of the radiator tunnel. Will determine where to mount once the body is back on the car.
The passenger lighting package and radiator fan wiring (including the addition of the fog light wiring) splits at the front corner of the driver side and continues towards the passenger side of the car. It then splits at the front passenger corner and continues out the passage outside radiator tunnel. Again, Will determine where to mount once the body is back on the car.

A/C and Dryer Wiring:

The wiring for the clutch it coiled around the location (at the front passenger side of the engine bay) I believe it will be when the engine is installed.
The Dryer wiring comes down the passenger side frame rail, goes out the same tubing towards the passenger lighting and radiator wiring, then goes up the radiator support frame rail, and following the underside until it gets to the trinary/dryer.
208743

Rear Harness (including the Wilwood EPB (https://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/140-15978-RD/10002/-1) wiring)

TKO Transmission Setup:

Since I am installing a TKO transmission, I ran two grounding wires for the reverse (going to the rear) and one wire for the neutral safety switch (running to the relay).
These are inserted into the tubing towards the rear of where I believe the transmission will land.
I have the wires coiled towards the back where I believe the transmission will land.

Routing:

The rear harness runs through the transmission tunnel, wire-tied to the rear brake line, and comes out around the same location as the brake and then splits for the drivers side Wilwood EPB (https://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/140-15978-RD/10002/-1) and the rest of the rear wiring:
208747

Wilwood EPB (https://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/140-15978-RD/10002/-1)Wiring:

Here is a picture of the driver side Wilwood EPB (https://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/140-15978-RD/10002/-1); however, the passenger looks the same. Will need to figure out a mounting system to attach the tubing to the upper control arm.
208746
All other wiring (the ground wire for the reverse switch from the TKO, the passenger Wilwood EPB (https://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/140-15978-RD/10002/-1), sending unit, and fuel pump) split the other direction.

Passenger Side Rear Corner:

After splitting for the passenger side Wilwood EPB (https://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/140-15978-RD/10002/-1), all other wiring (rear lights, reverse switch ground, and the sending unit/Fuel Pump) continues to the passenger rear corner.
Here splits out wiring for:

Fuel Pump
Passenger lighting package and license plate light
Rear Ground
Drivers lighting package and the sending unit
208748

Rear Ground:
As @EdwardB suggested (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-5-000-Mile-Report&p=342967&viewfull=1#post342967), I added a rear grounding location. I chose to place it just to the aft of the gas filler. Off of this ground is the grounding wire from the Ron Francis, the ground for the TKO reverse and neutral safety switch, and the continuation of the grounding wire from the Ron Francis for everything that services the back electrical.

It is connected to the chassis using a 1/4 Stainless button head (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/product-display.html?Product_Code=12120062) and a washer (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/product-display.html?Product_Code=12290062).
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wedel456

01-08-2025, 11:02 AM

While I had previously mounted the gas tank when I created my drop trunk (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568523&viewfull=1#post568523) just to ensure that everything fit correctly, I took everything off so I could continue with the build. Now that I am close to receiving my engine I thought it would be a good time to connect everything again so I can be prepared for when the engine arrives. As such, I have reconnected by gas tank and finished my fuel lines. I will be taking the gas tank out once again, once the engine has been installed and tested, so I can attach the panels and drop trunk (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568523&viewfull=1#post568523).

Equipment Used:

Hard Fuel Lines:

While complete overkill as no one will ever really know it is there, I decided to utilize 3/8 stainless steel tubing (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CDMBFZRS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Once cut to size and confirmed that it fit, I then polished it using the same method described previously with the rivets.
For the fittings, I used compression fittings, 90 degree bulkheads, and miscellaneous adapters from Racetronix (https://www.racetronix.biz).

PTFE Fuel Lines:

For the soft hoses, I decided to use 6AN stainless steel PTFE fuel line and fittings (https://www.ebay.com/itm/276567378586). I know I will need to get more fittings but I am not 100 percent sure what I will require until I have the engine. in place. I may also utilize black stainless under the hood. Will be a game time call.

Fuel Hanger, Pump, and filter

Since my engine will have almost 600 HP, I wanted to make sure that it was getting enough flow and GPM; ergo, I decided to upgrade to a Pro-M Hanger (https://www.promracing.com/high-flow-fuel-pump-hanger-for-1986-1997-mustangs.html) and Walbro Gss340 (https://treperformance.com/i-133083-ford-mustang-walbro-255-lph-fuel-pump-1985-1995-5-0-2-3.html?q=gss340)Fuel Pump
I am using, like many others on this forum, the Trick Flow TFS-23006 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-23006?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI47W2htiPhQMVKlBvBB3vQglzEAQYASAB EgLEGfD_BwE) fuel filter.

Gas Neck Filler Gasket - Based upon the recommendation of many others on this forum, I decided to take the opportunity to get the OE version for the filter neck. It is part number F4ZZ-9072-DA (https://ford.oempartsonline.com/oem-parts/ford-filler-pipe-seal-f4zz9072da).

Hard Fuel Fuel Lines:

The fuel lines run along the passenger side top rail of the transmission tunnel, though the e-brake mounts (I am not using the kit provided ebrake), out past the first 1" rail in the hatch area. I did wrap the area though goes through the ebrake mounts with shrink wrap to ensure that if there is rubbing it will not affect the line.

On that same 1" rail I minted the Trick Flow fuel filter. I did have to trim the top of the bracket (a little PRO-15 Top Coat Spray (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MBFOHEW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1) is a great match to the chassis powder coat).

To hold the hard lines in place I am using 3/8 rubber stainless steer cable clamps (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RMJQNMD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1). These will be attached using the 3/16 aluminum rivets from the kit (I just cannot get my gun to pull the 3/16 stainless with any type of constancy.....)
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At the front of the car, the fuel lines terminate on the center custom panel I created and utilize bulkhead fittings.
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*older picture but gives you an idea of what it will look like,

PTFE Lines:
This was my first time creating these hoses, but they are really easy to do. I used my large wire cutters to snip them to length, a little red grease on the fittings themselves, and then installed them in the car. That simple:
208754

I got 6an wire separators (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CPJHGB5M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1); however, for some reason they are too big. Will need to look at that and get something else.

Pro-M Hanger (https://www.promracing.com/high-flow-fuel-pump-hanger-for-1986-1997-mustangs.html) and Pump (https://treperformance.com/i-133083-ford-mustang-walbro-255-lph-fuel-pump-1985-1995-5-0-2-3.html?q=gss340):
Also another simple install, I used Molex 19164-0077 (https://www.tti.com/content/ttiinc/en/apps/part-detail.html?partsNumber=19164-0077&mfgShortname=MOL&utm=PNC2024&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA4fi7BhC5ARIsAEV1YiZOrBd-Nt7D81ioj7Vmi1ol9hcO69ugxU4dKKNA3VBNjvHis930AQQaAh XwEALw_wcB) crimp connectors made for gas connections and then installed the pump as per the instructions. I followed the tip in the @Rsnake video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kIjDTsB0S2A) and did not have to modify the tank to get the unit installed:
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Gas Tank
For the gas tank, I did upgrade the valve to the Breeze Automotive big bore vent check valve kit (https://breezeautomotive.com/shop/big-bore-vent-check-valve-kit/). I am looking at doing a custom solution for the charcoal filter; however that will be done in another post as I am still working on the solution.

As for the filler neck, I followed the directions in the manual (and online as they are not completely clear) and cut out the two inch center section. Once completed I could not leave the filler neck as is so I decided to give it a polish (yes, I know it will never be seen but I could not let it go). As you can see below (left polished, right not), it makes a big difference:
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wedel456

01-20-2025, 06:43 PM

I have been told that my engine should be shipping here in the next week or so. As such, I need to perform the final preparation so I can drop it in when it comes. My engine builder sent my CDI box - an MSD 5520 in black (https://www.holley.com/products/ignition/ignition_boxes/street/parts/5520?srsltid=AfmBOopNMxNYj8oubW58ILEIHITnaLyOo70-_rZQQX7U7utMJ37ZK1i-).

My goal for mounting this unit was to have it out of the way to the greatest extent possible and have it near a power and grounding source. I had originally thought that I could place it near the evaporator unit; however, it is clear there is way too much happening in that area to make that reality. So I spent a few hours reviewing other builds trying to figure out where to mount the box and a few more hours just looking at the car to think through all the options.

One area I did not see anyone place it, but one that I think works best to meet my requirements above, is right behind the radiator mounted to the top radiator frame rail (the one that is at an angle. To do so I am using 1/8 6061 aluminum plate (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09NLWS8KK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1) in which the CDI box (https://www.holley.com/products/ignition/ignition_boxes/street/parts/5520?srsltid=AfmBOopNMxNYj8oubW58ILEIHITnaLyOo70-_rZQQX7U7utMJ37ZK1i-) is connected using 10-32 flange head screws (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Button-Flange-Socket-Head-10-32-Screw-Stainless-p/56000.htm) and lock nuts. To connect the plate to the frame rail I am using 10-32 rivnuts (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Ribbed-Rivet-Nut-Aluminium/1600-014.htm) and SS washers and flange head screws (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Button-Flange-Socket-Head-10-32-Screw-Stainless-p/56000.htm)(three of them).

I had thought that there would be a vibration issue with only one side supported but once I connected it to the frame rail it is very firm with the 1/8 plate (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09NLWS8KK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1).

I have to paint the bracket (and the side of the unit that is grey) but I think that it is a perfect location to make it disappear and makes for easy wiring. I routed the wring in 3/4 convoluted tubing (https://www.ebay.com/itm/166749477137) and routed it behind the power steering rack down to the bottom rail to connect to power, ground, and other necessary wiring.

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wedel456

01-23-2025, 03:11 PM

Have to be honest - other than the center section I hated installing the pedal and accelerator cable. Most likely this was due to me waiting until I had the panels on to do this but I also had two consecutive bolts / lock nuts cross thread on me...... But it is done.

I followed the path set forth by @P100DHG (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?29393-P100DHG-Build-Thread-Gen-3-Coupe-138&p=382901&viewfull=1#post382901) and installed the pedal to the right side of the mounting location. I could not for the life of me find the mounting hardware so another trip to Lowes (and then another after the second cross thread).

209500

I also replaced the stock pedal with the machine one from Breeze (https://breezeautomotive.com/shop/gas-pedal-pad-conversion-kit-russ-thompson-to-wilwood-style/). Looks so much better, especially after I polished it along with the wildwood pedals (for some reason the Wilwood did not polish as nicely....).

The cable installation was just as hard. There is literally ZERO space behind the mounting bracket. I wanted it to remain hidden to the greatest extent until it cannot be. Ergo, I drilled a 5/16 hole right in the middle of the bracket about 1" down. Due to where I drilled the hole there was not enough space for the treaded portion of the cable to fit. I had to grind down the length on the belt sander (https://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-x-36-in-belt-and-6-in-disc-sander-58339.html).

After a couple of trips to the belt sander (https://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-x-36-in-belt-and-6-in-disc-sander-58339.html), I got it to just wrap around and slide in. Lines up perfectly with the pedal stud. I then ran the cable from behind with the cable pointing towards the pedal. I could not get a great picture of mine due to everything in the way but it is very much like @P100DHG (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?29393-P100DHG-Build-Thread-Gen-3-Coupe-138&p=382901&viewfull=1#post382901) (his picture below):

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The cable wraps fairly tightly (but still moves smoothly) to the back side of the support rail and then follows the rear brake line (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568297&viewfull=1#post568297) out to the transmission tunnel. Once I have the engine in place I will punch a whole through the transmission tunnel custom panel and bring it out to the Sniper TBI:

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wedel456

04-01-2025, 09:33 AM

JimStone

04-01-2025, 10:43 AM

That engine looks awesome! 575 hp will be a monster

wedel456

04-01-2025, 11:10 AM

That engine looks awesome! 575 hp will be a monster

I agree. This thing is going to be nuts!

Listen to how it sounds (https://www.facebook.com/reel/1169303891560327)!

The builder got it on the ---> dyno (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTKmCLeKxyE). It pulled 602 HP and almost 630 torque. My wife is actually a little concerned.

JimStone

04-01-2025, 11:45 AM

I agree. This thing is going to be nuts!

Listen to how it sounds (https://www.facebook.com/reel/1169303891560327)!

The builder got it on the ---> dyno (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTKmCLeKxyE). It pulled 602 HP and almost 630 torque. My wife is actually a little concerned.

Haha, gotta love getting 27 extra horsepower than advertised!

The LS 427 from Blueprint I'm planning will have similar specs. Go big or go home!

edwardb

04-01-2025, 01:07 PM

After an unexpected delay, my engine builder was able to put everything together. As previously mentioned, I went with a 427 stroker with 575 HP (https://proformanceunlimited.com/shop/ford-engines/427ci-351w-based-sbf-stroker-engine-575hp/), Dart block, and a Holley Sniper 2 EFI system. engine from Proformance Unlimited (https://www.proformanceunlimited.com/) out of Florida. Getting very excited to see this in the car:

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Great looking engine. Have you checked the under hood clearance with that intake setup? Unless you're planning to through the hood on the Coupe, you may not have room. Others have reported issues with the 351 block and tall intakes like that one. Also there's options with solid or lowered motor mounts should it be necessary. No experience with that myself, or what effect that has on pinion angle.

wedel456

04-01-2025, 01:13 PM

Great looking engine. Have you checked the under hood clearance with that intake setup? Unless you're planning to through the hood on the Coupe, you may not have room. Others have reported issues with the 351 block and tall intakes like that one. Also there's options with solid or lowered motor mounts should it be necessary. No experience with that myself, or what effect that has on pinion angle.

I have the same concern, too. The builder says it will fit; however, I will not know until I get it here. I have looked at other builds that have used drop bases for the air cleaners or even maybe a March Air Cleaner (https://marchperformance.com/carbon-spider-billet-air-cleaner-5-25-mount/) (they are not cheap) which would really lower clearance.

I will post when I get the thing it about the actual fitment. Keeping my fingers crossed.

burchfieldb

04-01-2025, 09:03 PM

I am in the same boat with my 351 Cleveland. I am going to have to figure out a solution. The solid mounts put the oil pan below the frame, which I am not a fan of. I think I am going to try the drop base mounts or make a custom one for the oval air cleaner that I have.

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Namrups

04-02-2025, 09:02 AM

I have a Ford Performance 460. Also based on the 351W block. It has the height issue. I was unable to use the oval air cleaner. I had to use a drop base round air cleaner with a tappered spacer under the Sniper 1 unit. I also had to remove some of the cross brace on the hood to get everything to clear. I used the FF supplied engine mounts and my pan is above the frame member by 3/8".
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193011&d=1701978628
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180999&d=1677787291
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180299&d=1677000066
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173458&d=1665152473

wedel456

04-02-2025, 10:38 AM

Namrups

04-02-2025, 03:19 PM

[QUOTE=Namrups;578010]I have a Ford Performance 460. Also based on the 351W block. It has the height issue. I was unable to use the oval air cleaner. I had to use a drop base round air cleaner with a tappered spacer under the Sniper 1 unit. I also had to remove some of the cross brace on the hood to get everything to clear. I used the FF supplied engine mounts and my pan is above the frame member by 3/8".

You are what got me looking at drop base. Thanks for your build thread!

Glad you found it useful!!
This is the drop base I used.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180298&d=1677000066

burchfieldb

04-02-2025, 09:09 PM

Scott,
What is this tapered spacer you speak of?

Thanks,
Brent

Namrups

04-03-2025, 07:51 AM

Scott,
What is this tapered spacer you speak of?

Thanks,
Brent

Hi Brent,
It's a spacer that goes under my Sniper unit that is tapered to allow the front of the sniper to sit higher than the back. this tilts the air cleaner lower in the back to aid in clearing trhe hood.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180306&d=1677000145

Scott

wedel456

04-03-2025, 01:32 PM

Hi Brent,
It's a spacer that goes under my Sniper unit that is tapered to allow the front of the sniper to sit higher than the back. this tilts the air cleaner lower in the back to aid in clearing trhe hood.

Is this a product to did you have it milled?

burchfieldb

04-03-2025, 07:26 PM

I am going to have to do the air filter drop base and the tapered spacer as well. Where did you get the spacer. Not having much luck finding it on google. Do you have any issues with the air clearner hitting the hood?

burchfieldb

04-04-2025, 09:19 AM

After some more searching with different terms on Google, I was able to find them. There are a few different options.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-65030

Namrups

04-04-2025, 02:52 PM

After some more searching with different terms on Google, I was able to find them. There are a few different options.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-65030

That's it! I still had issues where the air cleaner did hit the hood when the engine torqued under accel. :rolleyes: I did cut the stiffener at the edge of the hood, by 1/2 it's thickness, to give enough clearance.

Scott

burchfieldb

04-04-2025, 07:55 PM

They do have a 12 degree one cs the 5 deg. Maybe that would help.

wedel456

10-04-2025, 02:47 PM

It’s been a while since my last update, but the work definitely hasn’t stopped! I’m hoping to catch up on posts soon — a lot has happened since the last one.

Back in May, my dad came out to help me with one of the biggest milestones of the build: getting the engine installed. We started by bolting up the bellhousing and checking for dead center (after a quick trip to Harbor Freight for a dial indicator (https://www.harborfreight.com/1-in-travel-machinists-dial-indicator-63521.html) and mount (https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&source=web&cd=&ved=0CIsBEI_yBGoXChMIyMG6t6aLkAMVAAAAAB0AAAAAEAU&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.harborfreight.com%2Fmulti-position-magnetic-base-with-fine-adjustment-63663.html%3Fhftm_sc%3D240%26utm_source%3Dgoogle&psig=AOvVaw1D1pSuD6qL-ok2bBTCGBXF&ust=1759693271354725&opi=89978449), of course). To my surprise, it was perfectly in spec without needing any dowels. Once confirmed, I painted the transmission and bellhousing with POR-15 Gloss Black (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBFOH7Y?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_2) (to match the engine) — and that’s when the “fun” began.

After measuring for the hydraulic throwout bearing and confirming we were within spec (for anyone doing this, I’d recommend setting it toward the shorter end of the range rather than the longer), we began assembling everything: flywheel, pressure plate, clutch, and bellhousing — all torqued down to spec.

But then came the real battle: getting the transmission to seat fully into the engine. No matter what we did, it just wouldn’t go all the way in. We pulled it off several times to double-check clutch alignment and re-verify everything — everything looked perfect, yet it refused to slip into place. Just as we were about to throw in the towel and call for backup, we gave it one last try, wiggled it around a bit, and somehow it all came together. No idea what changed, but we weren’t about to question it!

We did run into the same issue others have mentioned (including @P100DHG (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?29393-P100DHG-Build-Thread-Gen-3-Coupe-138&p=396461&viewfull=1#post396461)) with the Dart block - I don't have a picture but did exactly what @p100DHG did in his build tread. The motor mount needed a little trimming — actually, a lot of little trimmings — to keep it from hitting the block. Once that was sorted (and after another Harbor Freight run, this time to replace my failing engine hoist ram jack (https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-super-heavy-duty-long-ram-flat-bottom-hydraulic-jack-58906.html)), the engine dropped right into place.

And let me tell you — seeing it finally sitting there in the chassis made all the headaches worth it. What a sight!

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Now for the problems:

The oil pan is about 1.5 inches below the frame rail. Ergo, I need a new:

Oil Pan (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ctr-15-690)
Oil Pickup (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ctr-15-691)

The air cleaner that came with the engine as zero possibility of fitting, ZERO, both front and back and side to side. Will need to figure this out.
The transmission did not have the mid shift kit installed (yet) and the shift point is right under the rail in the transmission tunnel. I knew this was going to be an issue but still need to find a solution (mid shift kit or otherwise). ***Fixed Here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=593008&viewfull=1#post593008)***
The FFR provide Transmission mount does not line up to the holes. FFR had an adjustment bracket and sent me one. More on this in a following post. ***Fixed Here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=593008&viewfull=1#post593008)***

wedel456

10-04-2025, 03:15 PM

Next up was the radiator tunnel and radiator installation. The tunnel panels went on using the polished 1/8" stainless rivets (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/product-display.html?Product_Code=11930018)I’ve used throughout the build — and they look awesome once in place against the black powder coating (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568518&viewfull=1#post568518).

The radiator install itself went smoothly, with one small deviation from the manual. Instead of using the cut tubing Factory Five recommends for the lower mounting point, I used some of the U-channel trim provided in the Coupe kit. It fit perfectly and provided a clean, finished look.

A quick word of advice for anyone using the Breeze Radiator Shroud Kit (https://breezeautomotive.com/shop/radiator-shroud-kit-for-gen-3-coupe/): do not install the shroud before the radiator. If you do, you’ll quickly realize you can’t access the bottom mounting points — in my case, 10-32 flange head screws (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Button-Flange-Socket-Head-10-32-Screw-Stainless-p/56000.htm) into rivnuts (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Ribbed-Rivet-Nut-Aluminium/1600-020.htm?v_code=1600-020-002).

For the top mount, I referenced my solution back in [Post 24] (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568292&viewfull=1#post568292). I made a custom bracket to attach the shroud to the top of the radiator. Once the radiator was secured in the car with the lower screws installed, I mocked up the top bracket with clecos (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08VRZV7JZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1), then riveted everything together using the same polished 1/8" stainless rivets (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/product-display.html?Product_Code=11930018) for a consistent finish.

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wedel456

10-04-2025, 04:23 PM

With the radiator securely installed, it was time to finish out the cooling system. For the tubing, as previously documented, I went with Boig Cooling Tubes (https://www.boigmotorsports.com), which fit perfectly and look fantastic once in place.

I followed the routing approach used by @p100DHG (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?29393-P100DHG-Build-Thread-Gen-3-Coupe-138&p=405740&viewfull=1#post405740), which provides clean lines, excellent clearance, and an OEM-style appearance. The layout not only simplifies future maintenance but also complements the overall engine bay aesthetic:

BMS-109 Gen 3 Coupe Upper Hose with Coyote Engine (https://www.boigmotorsports.com/products/p/bms-109-gen-3-coupe-upper-hose-with-coyote-engine)for the upper hose - yes, I have a SBF (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568490&viewfull=1#post568490) but since I am using a different thermostat hosing (https://tdmotion.com/product/ford-ultra-thermostat-housing-kit/), using the Coyote will provide a much cleaner look.
BMS-116 Gen 3 Coupe Lower Cooling Tube for SBF / Windsor (https://www.boigmotorsports.com/products/p/bms-116-gen-3-coupe-lower-cooling-tube-for-sbf-windsor) for the lower hose.

Before installation, I polished the top cooling tube following the same process (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=570471&viewfull=1#post570471) I’ve described in earlier posts. For the lower tube, I opted for POR-15 Chassis Black (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBFOHEW?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_3), since it will be largely hidden once installed and doesn’t need the same visual attention.

To tie everything together — and to keep the engine bay looking as clean as possible — I used Gates thermoplastic clamps (https://www.gates.com/us/en/fluid-power/engine-hose/hose-clamps-and-couplings.p.7405-000000-000000.html) for all the Boig tube (https://www.boigmotorsports.com/products/cooling-tubes) connections. For the thermostat housing, I opted for a worm-drive clamp with cover to maintain a neat appearance, and then used the kit-supplied formed hose and 90 degree fittings with additional Gates (https://www.gates.com/us/en/fluid-power/engine-hose/hose-clamps-and-couplings.p.7405-000000-000000.html) clamps to finish the setup.

Radiator to Boig Tubes - (4) Gates 1 1/2" (32948) (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CRHLAS?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_1):

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Connection from lower 90 to the lower Boig tubing (https://www.boigmotorsports.com/products/p/bms-116-gen-3-coupe-lower-cooling-tube-for-sbf-windsor) and water pump - (3) Gates 1 3/4 (32954) (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CRHLB2?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_2) *you will need a third one to connect the upper tube to the 90 at the real radiator panel -See the first pic above:

219757

Speedway Motors Radiator Hose Cover Cap (https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Motors-Radiator-Hose-Cover-Cap-Chrome,481387.html?utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&srsltid=AfmBOopHrOVktUdbucg7KWj531cdmeEWJAwS_Srk5s YJxCqrcnYC0Nvpo6o):

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I replaced the engine builder provide worm clamps from the water pump to thermostat housing with (2) Gates 5/8 (32925) (https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Gates-32925-Power-Grip-Hose-Clamp-15-16-Inch-1-1-16-Inch-OD,9302.html):

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The last connection is from the upper cool tube (https://www.boigmotorsports.com/products/p/bms-109-gen-3-coupe-upper-hose-with-coyote-engine) to the thermostat housing (https://tdmotion.com/product/ford-ultra-thermostat-housing-kit/). To complete this I used a 90 degree and the flexible radiator tube from the Coupe kit. I ended the upper cool tube (https://www.boigmotorsports.com/products/p/bms-109-gen-3-coupe-upper-hose-with-coyote-engine) right after the back radiator tunnel panel which gave it just enough room to route around the radiator overflow tank. Since this will never be seen, I used a polished stainless steel (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=570471&viewfull=1#post570471) gear worm to crimp the flexible tube to the 90:

219759

For the overflow connections, I used the same PTFE hose (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D7RMBSLM?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_8) and connectors as I did on my flexible fuel connections post (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=571977&viewfull=1#post571977). I did need to swap out the 1/4-inch bypass fitting on the thermostat housing (http://thermostat) for a 1/4-inch to 6AN fitting (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BL9144F3?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_14&th=1). With that, the cooling system installation is complete.

wedel456

10-04-2025, 05:00 PM

With the cooling system completed (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=592997&viewfull=1#post592997), I moved on to the heater tubing connections. As I documented previously, I installed the heater control valve (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=571964&viewfull=1#post571964) in passenger footbox and opted for grommets (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09K5GNFHF?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_1) over the bulkhead fitting.

After connecting the heater tubing provided in the kit to the heater control valve for in and outflow using stainless black worm drive clamps (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B4RH1XHC?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_1), I connected the inflow to the intake using a combination of connectors. I attempted to utilize a 1/2 NPT to 5/8 barb connector; however, all of them that I could find were not tall enough to allow for installation; ergo, I decided to go with:

1/2 NPT to 10 AN (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LKXNFHK?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_5)
10 AN to 5/8 90 barbed connector (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BZKL41BW?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_5&th=1)

To complete the inflow connection, I utilized the same Gates thermoplastic clamps (https://www.gates.com/us/en/fluid-power/engine-hose/hose-clamps-and-couplings.p.7405-000000-000000.html) from the Finished Cooling System (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=592997&viewfull=1#post592997) post. This time I used part number Gates 5/8 (32925 (https://www.gates.com/us/en/fluid-power/engine-hose/hose-clamps-and-couplings.p.7405-000000-000000.html)) (https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Gates-32925-Power-Grip-Hose-Clamp-15-16-Inch-1-1-16-Inch-OD,9302.html):

219779

For the outflow, I connected it directly to the waterpump using the same Gates termoplastic clamps (https://www.gates.com/us/en/fluid-power/engine-hose/hose-clamps-and-couplings.p.7405-000000-000000.html) (32925 (https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Gates-32925-Power-Grip-Hose-Clamp-15-16-Inch-1-1-16-Inch-OD,9302.html)) used above.

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To finish up the final install, I measured, cut, and install the drain hose using the provided tee and the same stainless black worm drive clamps (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B4RH1XHC?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_1). I drilled the floor with a 5/8 drill bit.

219781 219782

With that, the heater piping is completed!

wedel456

10-04-2025, 05:47 PM

Aside from the challenges connecting the transmission to the engine, getting the power steering system to run leak-free was by far the trickiest part of the engine installation. For context, I’m using a CVF Racing GM type II power steering pump (https://cvfracing.com/gm-type-ii-power-steering-pump/) (with the GM Type II Pressure Reducing Valve (https://cvfracing.com/gm-type-ii-pressure-reducing-valve-282/?Category0=ENGINE+ACCESSORIES&Category1=Power+Steering&search_return=all) - DO NOT FORGET THIS) with a remote reservoir and followed their instructions (https://support.cvfracing.com/hc/en-us/articles/360049939454-Remote-Power-Steering-Reservoir) to hook everything together:

219786

For the high pressure connections, I ran a combination of 6 AN and 10 AN (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D7RMBSLM?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_8) high-pressure PTFE tubing and misc connectors (make sure to get a mixture as I used 45, 90, and 180 adapters) along:

The bottom frame rail, on top of the brake lines, connecting to and from the remote reservoir.
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The driver’s side frame rail, from the pump to the rack and back.
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The biggest headache came from trying to save a few bucks on the original 5/8-18 and 9/16-18 NPT fittings (https://www.ebay.com/itm/276242394787) I purchased for the rack. I cannot express this enough..... DO NOT DO THIS. I had to connect, test, and redo the installation three times—each time Honda Power Steering fluid (https://www.hondapartsconnection.com/oem-parts/honda-power-steering-fluid-same-as-08206-9002-8285p990cza3) went everywhere. Once I contacted Breeze and ordered their Adapter Fitting Kit (https://breezeautomotive.com/shop/adapter-fitting-kit-06an-for-87-93-mustang-power-steering-rack/), the installation went smoothly. The key difference? The included sealing washers.

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With everything connected and leak-free, the power steering system is finally complete.

wedel456

10-04-2025, 06:18 PM

Transmission Mounting Fix:
As I mentioned in a previous post, the transmission mount did not line up with the mounting holes on the frame. No matter how I adjusted the bracket—and after multiple calls to FFR support—I couldn’t get it to fit. This was surprising, given that this is a standard package (351W with a TKX). After reviewing the issue with FFR support, they sent me an transmission mounting extension bracket that mounts to the transmission and then connects to the original FFR mounting bracket, resolving the alignment issue.

219791 219792 219793

Shifter Location:
As I mentioned previously, the standard rear TKX shifter location caused an issue: while it could be installed, it only allowed full engagement of first gear. My engine package (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568490&viewfull=1#post568490) included a mid-shift kit, which I had hoped would be installed prior to delivery, but that did not happen. In the end, this wasn’t a major setback. After consulting with my engine builder and running into some supply chain delays, I decided to move forward with an American Powertrain 3" Offset Short Throw Shifter (SHWL-10100SR3X) (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/awr-s0004). Installing this required cutting the transmission tunnel cross member—nothing major—but the result was a shifter that ended up better aligned with the factory shifter hole than it would have been with the mid-shift kit.

Once installed, the offset shifter works and looks perfect.

*** One important note: the other benefit by using a offset shifter rather than a mid shift kit - and you would not know this without reading the manual - is that you get to keep the neutral safety switch. If you migrate to the midshfit kit then the safety switch will not work. This may not be a big deal to anyone only using the FFR neutral clutch switch; however, I wanted to be able to start the car in neutral or if the clutch was engaged. See this #42 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568546&viewfull=1#post568546) if you are interested in reading how I accomplished this. ***

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With those issues resolved, I still need to:

Clean up the rough cut on the cross member and paint the edges. I may even install and 1" steel member to reenforce the area but I have not decided.
Purchase the shifter boot - prob the Lakar Hi-top Boot (https://lokar.com/70-cr2.html)- that I like and mount it using the FFR provided shifter ring.

wedel456

10-04-2025, 07:01 PM

Reservoir Connections:
In a previous post, I covered how I mounted the brake and clutch reservoirs (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=571487&viewfull=1#post571487). The final step for this part of the project was connecting them to the master cylinders. To accomplish this, I purchased three 5/16” barb-to-1/8” NPT adapters (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B513Q4V8?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_12) for the bottom of each reservoir. As always, I polished (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=570471&viewfull=1#post570471) the fittings and the worm hose clamps for a clean, finished look.

I then connected the FFR kit hoses to the adapters and routed them through the upper right-hand hole on the RIGHT FOOTBOX FRONT. To secure the hoses through the factory hole, I used a 1” stainless cable gland (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D3DCNPR5?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_4), which I also polished (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=570471&viewfull=1#post570471). The finished installation looks great.

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I’ll still need to level the reservoirs once the custom panel (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208454&d=1735841445&thumb=1) covering them is installed—this will happen closer to the final assembly. For now, this portion of the project is complete.

Brake Bleeding:
Never thought bleeding the brakes would be difficult—but it turned into a major pain. I had hoped to make it a one-person job, so I had purchased a vacuum pump bleed kit (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DNN8PT1S?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_1)—but I couldn’t have been more wrong. I was extremely thankful to have my father in town to help. After confirming there were no leaks and trying to pump the system full of air with the vacuum pump (which it passed) and still not getting a firm pedal using the vacuum, we eventually switched to the old catch-can method. Even that wasn’t working.

After talking with support, it became clear: we hadn’t bench-bled the master cylinders. Lesson learned—complete a bench bleed. A quick trip to Advanced Auto Parts for a Master Cylinder Bleeder Kit (https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-help-master-cylinder-bleeder-kit-14151/12455502-p?product_channel=local&store=8723&adtype=pla&product_channel=local&store_code=8723&&&&&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=16404424073&gbraid=0AAAAAD05GhW9VjZA4zp3l7xe14WMR3PK2&gclid=CjwKCAjwi4PHBhA-EiwAnjTHuQwSjKmz7-HNLiNWEVZxaiRuW01mVwQlQR6mK1KMn5QsoVc489ncSRoC-20QAvD_BwE)fixed that. Once the masters were bench-bled, connecting the kit back to the reservoirs, we slowly bled the system—even after no more air bubbles appeared, just to be safe.

After that, the old catch-can method worked perfectly, and the brakes bled quickly and efficiently. We did both the inside and outside bleeders on every caliper to achieve a rock-solid pedal. I would skip the vacuum method entirely if I had to do it again. Brakes are now firm and ready.

wedel456

10-04-2025, 08:03 PM

With the engine installed and all fitment confirmed, I moved on to installing the remaining panels not previously covered in an earlier post (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=570591&viewfull=1#post570591). For panels with visible rivets, I continued using 1/8" stainless steel rivets (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/item/Pop-Rivets-1-8-304-Stainless-Steel) - polished (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=570471&viewfull=1#post570471) of course - for a clean look, while non-visible areas received the 1/8" aluminum rivets provided in the FFR kit. After breaking two of the hand rivet tools I originally purchased (I would not recommend the Arrow brand (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Arrow-RHT300-Swivel-Head-Rivet-Tool-Black-Includes-4-Nose-Pieces-Automotive-Metal-Work-Canvas-Heavy-Duty-All-Steel-Construction/1194941)), I upgraded to a Craftsman rivet gun. It was slightly more expensive, but the difference was night and day—highly recommended. By the end of the process, I had hand-pulled every 1/8" rivet (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/item/Pop-Rivets-1-8-304-Stainless-Steel)(both stainless and aluminum, plus the 3/16" aluminum). The only rivets I used the pneumatic gun for were the 3/16" stainless ones.

To help reduce heat and noise, I applied FatMat RattleTrap (https://www.ebay.com/itm/226305086093?var=525492462097) (previously discussed (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568532&viewfull=1#post568532)) to the inside of both the COCKPIT UNDER DOOR panels and the custom under door panels (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568339&viewfull=1#post568339) on the exterior. I also added some to the cross members beneath these panels. I’m not sure how much of a difference it will make overall, but every bit of insulation should help.

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I don't knave many pictures from this point of the project but the panels looked awesome. Too bad I had to cover them with the FatMat RattleTrap (https://www.ebay.com/itm/226305086093?var=525492462097) :)

Once all the panels were installed, I attached the cover for my drop trunk using 10-32 flange head screws (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/screws-bolts/socket-head-cap-screws/flange-button-head-socket-cap-screws/304-stainless-steel-button-flange-socket-cap-screws) and 10-32 rivnuts (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Ribbed-Rivet-Nut-Aluminium/1600-020.htm). Everything fits and functions perfectly.

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After that, I applied FatMat RattleTrap to all of the interior panels. It’s a very easy product to work with—as long as it doesn’t fold over onto itself (if it does, just toss that piece and start over). I’m not certain how much it will help with heat, but the panels are noticeably quieter when knocked.

Only a few photos were taken at this stage, but here’s a good example of how everything came together.

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wedel456

10-04-2025, 08:28 PM

In a previous pos (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=573154&viewfull=1#post573154)t, I covered my plan for routing the throttle cable — following the same clean layout that @P100DHG (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?29393-P100DHG-Build-Thread-Gen-3-Coupe-138&p=382901&viewfull=1#post382901) used. Once the engine was in place, it was time to put that plan into action.
I ran the throttle cable through the transmission tunnel , then out through the custom firewall panel using a grommet (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09XVDTQ8F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for protection. The cable connects to a Summit Racing Aluminum Throttle Cable Bracket (210239BLK) (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-210239BLK) with a Throttle Cable Bracket Adapter (SUM-210243BLK) (http://Bracket). To improve pedal feel and response, I swapped the stock springs for 3" steel extension springs (http://) from McMaster — a simple change that made a noticeable difference to the feel of the pedal.

However, I quickly discovered that the FFR-supplied throttle cable wasn’t going to cut it. The connection points at both the pedal and the bracket were just too flimsy for a solid, precise feel — and based on what I’ve seen in the forums, I wasn’t alone. The cable kept "snapping" out of the mounting points. I ended up replacing it with an aftermarket cable from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CWRNQFR9?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_7&th=1), which looked nearly identical to the Lokar version that several other builders have recommended.

The best part? I didn’t have to remove the housing I’d already installed. I simply ran the new cable through it, connected everything, and the setup now works perfectly. Smooth action, great pedal feedback — and another item checked off the list

219805 219806

wedel456

10-11-2025, 07:19 PM

Installed the dash today and boy does it look good in the car put together:

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I have massive respect for anyone that has extra vents (I have four) AND a glove box. I had nothing but issues with getting all the ducting behind the dash, especially with all the extra wiring (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568391&viewfull=1#post568391) that I have behind there. I really have ZERO clue how anyone has a glove box with more than two vents.

While this is not the final configuration I went with due to issues during install, here is essentially the setup I used:

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I had to add an additional wye and move one of the defroster vents to the passenger (right) side outlet and even then there was *just* enough room to get it to fit.

Someone (@burchfieldb?!?!?) needs to come up with a plenum solution to make this part of the process much easier.

For now, body back on for the last time tomorrow (10/12)!

wedel456

10-11-2025, 08:23 PM

FootBoxes:

Like many others on this forum, I’ve probably read through @edwardb’s Coupe build thread (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=405315&viewfull=1#post405315) dozens of times. With my final body installation scheduled for tomorrow (10/12), I decided to follow his excellent advice (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-5-000-Mile-Report&p=350347&viewfull=1#post350347) and carpet the areas that would be tough to reach afterward — specifically the left and right footboxes.

Starting with the driver’s side, I first confirmed that I was happy with the throttle pedal height and that it fully engaged the Sniper. Once that was set, I moved on to the carpet. To give it a more finished look and some protection, I stitched on a small heel pad from Heel Pad Warehouse (http://www.heelpadwarehouse.com/)using carpet thread (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BTN971N4?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_1) from Amazon. Surprisingly, this was very easy to do — and that’s coming from someone with zero sewing experience.

Before stitching, I applied DAP Weldwood Landau Top & Trim Contact Adhesive (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092NJH6XL?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title) (rattle can version from Amazon) to secure the heel pad (http://www.heelpadwarehouse.com/) in place. After it dried, I marked the stitch holes ¼ inch apart with a ruler and a punch from a basic sewing kit, then went to town with a needle and thimble. The whole process took about an hour while watching TV. I did fold the bottom edge under before stitching, though in hindsight, it didn’t really make a difference either way.

With the heel pad complete, I used the same DAP adhesive (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092NJH6XL?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title) to install the carpet on the LEFT FOOTBOX INSIDE and both FOOTBOX OUTSIDE WALL, RIGHT panels. The adhesive worked great — strong hold, clean edges, and just enough time to reposition if needed.

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Please note: I did have to trim the carpet a little of the non-triangle carp (#3 in the manual) right at the bottom rail where the "V" connects. There is not enough room to slide the carpet down far enough, latest with my panel alignment.

I thenmoved on to the RIGHT INSIDE and FOOTBOX OUTSIDE WALL, RIGHT panels. Laid down the same DAP Welwood Ladau Top and Trim Contact Adhesive (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092NJH6XL?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title):

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Please note: If you already have the evaporator installed, as I did (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=571964&viewfull=1#post571964), you will need to trim the top of the carpet. This is *not* and big deal as you will never see it EVER. I had to trim a little more as I also have my heater control valve on the inside of the passenger footbox (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=571964&viewfull=1#post571964).

I did not need to do anything with the fronts of the two footbox areas as I have custom panels (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568339&viewfull=1#post568339) there covered (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568368&viewfull=1#post568368) in the same material as the dash. I test fitted that and it will fit perfectly.

Firewall:

When I had the body on previously, I noticed that portions of the firewall panel are visible in areas not covered by the dash. You’d have to lean over or tilt your head to see them, but it still bugged me — especially since my firewall is covered (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568532&viewfull=1#post568532) in silver FatMat Rattletrap (https://www.ebay.com/itm/226305086093?var=525492462097). To clean things up, I decided to use some leftover carpet from the kit to cover the exposed sections.

While working on the passenger side, I also ran into an issue with two rivnuts I installed for the wiper system. They sat right where the carpet needed to go, and I was worried they’d cause a noticeable bulge (definitely overthinking it, but I couldn’t let it go). To even out the surface, I measured the rivnut (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Ribbed-Rivet-Nut-Aluminium/1600-014.htm) height and ordered 0.2-inch high-density foam (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CZ8MP8GV?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_1&th=1) from Amazon to match..

I cut the foam to the same size as the carpet, cut out small circles for the rivnuts (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Ribbed-Rivet-Nut-Aluminium/1600-014.htm) using a carpet blade, and installed both layers using DAP Weldwood Landau Top & Trim Contact Adhesive (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092NJH6XL?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title). The result looks clean, fits flush, and eliminates that visible silver firewall edge that would’ve driven me crazy.

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8secDuster

10-11-2025, 08:40 PM

I don't have a glove box, but I do have 4 vents. I switched all of my duct hose's over to the smaller 2" hose.
Still tight, but fits better.

460.465USMC

10-12-2025, 10:57 AM

Congrats on getting the drivetrain installed. Huge milestone reached. Great progress!

burchfieldb

10-12-2025, 07:23 PM

wedel456

10-12-2025, 07:32 PM

Looking good Justin! Noted on the duct, I am going to have the same issue on mine and have been thinking about how to solve it. Although mine is caused by the PDM/fuse box being on that side.

Have thoughts if you want to work on it together. Email me if you are interested.

wedel456

10-17-2025, 03:32 PM

For a variety of reasons, I wasn’t able to get the body back on the car this past weekend :( — so I shifted gears and moved on to something else.

Like many other parts of this build, upholstery work was something I’d never done before. I had some leftover material (https://braumracing.com/products/black-leatherette-material?variant=40717802471560) that matched my seats, so I decided to give it a try on the rear hatch side panels. Before starting, I had already test-fitted the body to get everything positioned correctly and pre-drilled the mounting holes for the splash guards, fuel neck cover, and cockpit upper outside corners.

For the splash guards and the gas tank vent filter (I’ll cover that in more detail once the body’s back on), I used 10-32 rivnuts (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Ribbed-Rivet-Nut-Aluminium/1600-014.htm)to attach them to the rear hatch side panels. Because of the rivnut (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Ribbed-Rivet-Nut-Aluminium/1600-014.htm) protrusion, I used the same 0.2-inch high-density (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CZ8MP8GV?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_1&th=1) foam mentioned earlier in my firewall post (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=593481&viewfull=1#post593481) to even out the surface before applying the upholstery. I used DAP Weldwood Landau Top & Trim Contact Adhesive (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092NJH6XL?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title) again, leaving about ½ inch of foam-free space around the top edges — where the bulb weatherstripping will go — and around the rear shock tower covers and fuel neck cover.

For the rear chock tower covers, I installed the same .2-inch foam (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CZ8MP8GV?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_1&th=1) (although this was prob not needed) to make everything match and just folded the upholstery around the edges leaving it short enough not to show through where you could see if from the outside of the car.

For the cockpit upper outsidepanels, shock tower covers, and the fuel neck cover, I’ll be using ½" 10-32 stainless screws (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Button-Flange-Socket-Head-10-32-Screw-Stainless-p/56000.htm)with black stainless steel washers (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/flat-washer-black-oxide-18-8-ss-10-0203-id-x-0437-od-x-116-thick-12290050/) and 10-32 black stainless steel acorn nuts (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CML8MM3G?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_1)on the outside. These panels shouldn’t ever need to come off, but I still wanted them upholstered before installation and removable if needed — rivets weren’t really an option here anyway, especially given how close those upper outside panels sit to the roll cage - and as an added benefit it matches the rest of the builds theme.

I left the bottom edge of each upholstered panel a little long and will trim them to fit once they’re installed in the car. Any rough or uneven edges — especially around the roll bar areas — will be hidden beneath the rear hatch carpet once it’s installed.

Overall, for a first-time upholsterer, I’m really happy with how everything turned out — the panels look great on their own, and even better once they’re installed on the car.

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After test fitting everything, and seeing how it looks in the car, I decided not to upholster the rear hatch rear wall. That will remain carpet connected to the rear hatch side panels and rear frame rail using rivnuts (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Ribbed-Rivet-Nut-Aluminium/1600-014.htm) and 10-32 stainless steel screws (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Button-Flange-Socket-Head-10-32-Screw-Stainless-p/56000.htm) which will allow for any service needs on the rear lights, rear view camera, body alignment, etc.

wedel456

10-17-2025, 04:24 PM

After checking in with @edwardb for his thoughts on the Factory Five–supplied wiper kit (which came with my kit) versus the Specialty Power Windows WWK-2 (https://www.specialtypowerwindows.com/window-kits-street-rods-universal) system, I decided to go with the Specialty kit (https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Specialty-Power-Windows-WWK-2-Standard-Universal-Wiper-Drive-Kit,5126.html?srsltid=AfmBOopp3EJ39lpGJRZcIdbMuD7m us0Wkcvl1DLqffoVDrDeyYBSYb8A). I originally planned to use the FFR kit and even tested my relay system with it, but once I mocked it up, it became clear that it wouldn’t fit on the firewall the way I wanted. My goal was to keep the system as clean and hidden as possible, and the Specialty kit gave me the flexibility to do that.

While I still need to finalize the wiper arm mounting and tubing bends, I did get the motor installed on the firewall and verified all the electrical connections. Everything tested perfectly.
Although the motor can be mounted directly using the hardware included with the kit, I wanted to eliminate as much vibration transfer into the cockpit as possible. To achieve that, I added rubber isolators between the motor and the bracket. I couldn’t find any 10-32 isolators available for quick delivery, so I went with M6 versions (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B51XBN13?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_2) and M6 stainless button-head screws (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DN23ZS7G?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_1) for a clean, uniform look. These are connected onto the firewall using some M6 rivnuts that were provided in my rivnut installation tool. (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVB369ZS?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_17)

The motor itself attaches to a two-piece bracket that comes assembled with long bolts and hex nuts.

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I wanted the ability to remove the motor independently without having to take out the entire bracket assembly, so I replaced the through-bolts with 10-32 rivnuts (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Ribbed-Rivet-Nut-Aluminium/1600-020.htm?v_code=1600-020-002) installed in the rear bracket. This setup lets me mount the motor to the front bracket outside the car and then secure the entire assembly using 1" 10-32 stainless flange-head screws (https://www.mcmaster.com/97654a351/)—keeping it consistent with the rest of the under-hood hardware.

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If you’re anything like me, you’ve probably wondering how far the wiper motor should sit from the outside edge of the firewall panel—especially since pictures on the forum can be a bit deceiving. My main concern was ensuring there would be enough clearance for the firewall extension panels that get installed once the body is in place. Fortunately, I had already installed the rivnuts (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Ribbed-Rivet-Nut-Aluminium/1600-014.htm) for those panels during my initial body test fit, which gave me a solid reference point. The leftmost isolator (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B51XBN13?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_2) on the firewall is positioned as high as possible without interfering with the bulb molding and sits exactly 5 inches to center from the edge of the firewall panel.

Overall, the installation turned out exactly as I envisioned. The motor sits securely, is well isolated from vibration, and looks factory clean. I’ll be painting the brackets POR chassis black (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBFOHEW?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_7) to match the rest of the panels under the bonnet before final installation.

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The electrical is installed through the firewall to the left of the motor using a grommet (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09K5GNFHF?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_1), convoluted tubing from the kit, and non-adhesive wiring harness tape. (https://www.ebay.com/itm/1867430764900)

While I previously documented the relay setup (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568546&viewfull=1#post568546) that I am using for the wiper setup, I spent a few hours, and many blown fuses, not really understanding how the entire thing works. Relays are not complicated but not knowing exactly how the motor works and the multiple relays that are used did cause me some distress. I then found this site (https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et219b.htm) which explained everything in diagrams. If you are going to use my setup, please review this webpage as it really helped me understand EXACTLY how it works.

wedel456

10-28-2025, 05:09 PM

Undercoating:

Before reinstalling the body, I sprayed U-Pol Raptor Liner (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074KQLKMH?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_1) on the entire underside of the body and rear splash guards. It turned out great! I ended up using the full gallon just for those areas — others seem to get both the body and bonnet done with a gallon, but this was my first time using the product, so I’ll chalk that up to inexperience.

A few tips for anyone planning to do this:

Mask everything carefully. The spray travels farther than you’d expect and will get places you would never guess. I actually spent way more time masking than spraying.
Work in a wide-open area. You will thank yourself later.

The kit I purchased included a TCP Global spray gun (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074KQLKMH?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_1) (different from the U-POL version). I followed their PSI recommendations but adjusted the nozzle tip until I found the texture I liked. There are a few “bright” spots that are only visible in the right light, but overall, I’m very happy with the finish.

Before applying the liner, I installed FatMat Rattletrap (https://www.ebay.com/itm/226305086093?var=525492462097) under the cowl, following the lip all the way down to the lower edge near the exhaust exit. I also added some under the sill plate area — just far enough to let the sill frame rails slide underneath without raising the height. The goal is to cut down on both heat and noise. If you’re doing the same, make sure to scuff the Rattletrap (https://www.ebay.com/itm/226305086093?var=525492462097) or apply a primer before spraying the Raptor Liner (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074KQLKMH?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_1), per the instructions. Once sprayed, it blends perfectly — you’d never know it was underneath.

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Headliner Installation:

Next up was the headliner. I’ll be honest — the manual leaves a lot to be desired here. It doesn’t specify how far to run the material down the door pillars, around the outer roof edges near the seats, or down the hatch area. After searching forums and Google with little luck, I decided to:

Run the headliner just to the end of the door pillars, stopping where they meet the flat section of the cowl.
In the hatch area, end it at the first corner when viewed from the rear of the car.

Before installing the headliner, I applied FatMat Rattletrap (https://www.ebay.com/itm/226305086093?var=525492462097) to all areas it would cover (including the cowls) and ran a bead of caulk along every corner to eliminate gaps and get clean, crisp edges.
For a first-time headliner installation job, it turned out perfect. The contours are tight, the corners are smooth, and it completely changes the feel of the interior and I am glad I installed it. If I was to do it again, I would prob look for a different material and ran it the entire length of the car, including the hatch area:

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Body Reinstallation:

Finally — after a few weeks of delay — the body is back on! I had previously test-fitted it, so this time it was just a matter of dialing in the height and side-to-side alignment at the rear, then using my previously placed temporary self-tapping screws to line up the front. I’m sure I’ll need a few final tweaks once the bonnet is on, but it feels great to see the car coming together again.

For anyone doing this for the first time, I measured 16 ¼ inches side-to-side on both wheel wells, taken from the top of the shock to the outside edge of the wheel well. Seeing the car all back together reminded me just how good this thing looks — the light at the end of the tunnel is definitely getting brighter.

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burchfieldb

10-28-2025, 06:15 PM

Looking good! I used the U Pol gun and it was a mistake, that stuff went everywhere.

wedel456

03-06-2026, 07:06 PM

As I previously (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=592990&viewfull=1#post592990) posted, I had the normal air cleaner fitment issues. I tired resolving the problem by measuring the gap between the top of the Sniper and the hood - came out to about 2 1/4 inches. I then went through numerous air cleaners to try to make things fit. Each failed for different reasons.

After talking to my engine builder, I was turned on to carb hats. I then went through string of carb hats - mostly from Spectre - that did not fit for numerous reasons (either too tall or too wide). My last attempt was an ATI ProCharer Low-Profile Carb Bonnet (https://treperformance.com/i-23907102-ati-procharger-low-profile-carb-hat-bonnet-for-4150-blow-thru-carbs-black.html?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=18136049236&gbraid=0AAAAAD--Wa8J9TlbYSXizaSbvnMfaOndB&gclid=Cj0KCQiAk6rNBhCxARIsAN5mQLvRUeIqWkSDIKEgl5Dv ap1nh9QNqhd0YO2HkhiuBvUzZXMNBgbbKDwaAl69EALw_wcB) which fit under the hood and bought a coupler (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09C1QTXWP?ref_=ppx_hzod_title_dt_b_fed_asin_title _0_0), 45 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B2V7F1T1?ref_=ppx_hzod_title_dt_b_fed_asin_title _4_0), straight (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F29Q7K5V?ref_=ppx_hzod_title_dt_b_fed_asin_title _2_0), and a 90 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F29PDJ31?ref_=ppx_hzod_title_dt_b_fed_asin_title _7_0) intake tubing along with a Spectre Air Filter (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0097JKBDG?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_1)and clamps (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CCGPHMMS?ref_=ppx_hzod_title_dt_b_fed_asin_title _6_0) from Amazon.

226438

I have not run it on the road yet so I am not 100 percent sure that it will get enough air but my engine builder said he is confident this will work. Will look at my air/fuel ratio when I get it on the road to confirm everything is functioning as expected. For now, this issue is now resolved.