Project Deimos: An LS '65 Coupe Build: Engine no longer overheating!

[JimStone]

Hello Factory Five Community and thanks for taking a look at my build thread!



In February I finally clicked the “Submit” sale button on the website after a few years of hovering over it. The Spring Sale and promised summer price hike was the final push. I also got free powder coating as one of the first 10 kit purchases of the sale. April 28th was my completion date. I’ll be making the 28 hour round-trip to Wareham the week before Memorial Day to see the factory and pick up my kit. Maybe I'll get to meet Dave Smith. I can’t believe how close the day has become!

I’m a physician with the Veterans Affairs Northern Indiana Healthcare System. I’m no mechanic. I do basic auto maintenance –oil changes, brake jobs, etc –but that’s about the extent of my wrenching experience.

Some will say I’m not qualified to do this. That’s fair, but I’ve lived by the idea that anything is achievable with enough tenacity and it’s gotten me pretty far. I am a pretty advanced DIY’er, enjoy researching and planning projects, and learning new skills.

That said, I realized this is a whole different ballgame. If it wasn’t for this forum, with the knowledge and support it provides, I probably wouldn’t have the confidence to try this. So thank you to those who have documented their builds and continue to give their wisdom.








https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198690&d=1714190433

My leisure reading material the past few years






Fun fact:
I’ve still never seen a Coupe/Daytona in person and didn’t even know Factory Five made it until 2 years ago.




I’ve always been a big car guy. When I was a kid, my Dad bought a project 68’ Mustang fastback from Arizona, sight-unseen, assuming desert cars don’t rust. Well, that one was the exception to the rule. The day it was delivered, my Dad drove me around the neighborhood once –the blacktop visible through the floorboards—and barely made it back to the garage on less than 8 cylinders. Over the next years, I fondly remember the time working with my Dad in the garage - the welding, the cutting and grinding, the body filler and sanding. Unfortunately, we got stuck on a few aspects of the restoration and my Dad lost heart and ended up selling it unfinished. I’ve pined over that car ever since and dreamed of doing my own restoration one day with my kids.

Fast forward 25 years and I’m finally in a place where I have the time (kinda) and resources to pursue this hobby. While I’d love to tackle a 60’s Mustang, being a novice, I think all new parts sounds like a better starting point.

I have two young boys, 3 and 6, who are also obsessed with cars and love to help Daddy with projects. This will be a unique and memorable bonding opportunity, like I had with my Dad.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198691&d=1714190433

[JimStone]

I’m calling this car Project Deimos after the mythical Greek God of Terror (I’m an Ancient Greece nerd). I’m planning an LS engine with 605 HP, so terror is what I anticipate experiencing the first time I put my foot fully down.



My goal is a beastly street car, with the occasional autocross or track day for fun but not real competition. This will be far from a purist recreation of the original Daytona, obviously starting with the LS engine. I’m going for a mean looking resto-mod like car.

I’ll be incorporating several modifications/deviations from the standard kit. But, I will be standing on the backs of giants (I’m looking at you Edwardb) – very little will never have been done before.

With my work and family obligations, this will be a slow go – I’m anticipating 3 years—and that’s okay. I’ll probably have spent 4 hours researching for every hour of hour of actual build progress, and that’s okay too.


Here are the details: please critique!




Type 65 Coupe Complete Kit and following options:

- Chassis powder coat
- Independent Rear Suspension
- A/C Kit
- Power steering kit
- Stainless headers
- FFR side pipes – but will probably sell and get Gas-N (Edit: decided to stick with the FFR pipes)
- Front sway bar only
- Carpet
- Body cut-outs
- Coupe side windows
- Delete gauges and front brakes


Drive train
- Blueprint LS3 - 427ci (605HP / 565 TQ)
- CVF accessory drive
- Holley Terminator X Max Engine Management
- Holley Drive by wire throttle body/pedal
- Quick Time bell housing
- McLeod twin disc clutch
- Tilton hydraulic release bearing
- GM T56 transmission
- 8.8 IRS diff – got a like-new salvaged 3.73 Torsen with 17k miles from Georgia


Fuel
- Walbro 350 LPH fuel pump
- Pro-M hanger
- Aeromotive regulator
- Trick Flow canister filter
- 3/8” stainless lines, supply and return
- Breeze big bore check valve
- Ford original fuel cap
- Ford original filler neck seal



Brakes
- Wilwood 12.88 inch drilled and slotted brakes, front and rear, black calipers – got same kits from Summit Racing as sold by FFR with discount codes for ~$450 less in total and free shipping EDIT: if you don't get rear brakes from FFR, then you also don't get the parking brake lines and brackets - I had to buy these later after figuring that out
- Stainless brake lines


Wheels
- Forgestar F14 19x10 Super Deep Convex, 19x12 Ultra Deep Convex , gloss black


Gauges:
- Custom Speedhut gauges w GPS speedo


Seats
- Braum Orue


Other upgrades/mods:
- Power Specialty Windows wiper kit
- Chase Bay compact windshield washer reservoir/pump
- Tilton 3 chamber reservoir
- IDIDIT High/low beam relays
- MOMO Eagle steering wheel
- NRG steering wheel quick disconnect
- BRE coupe mirrors
- Moog tie rods
- Howe Racing ball joints
- Energy suspension boots
- Morimoto Sealed7 LED headlights and XB LED fog lights
- Breeze radiator fan shroud
- Fabricated trunk storage
- Fabricated glove box
- Russ Thompson turn signal continuation by TJ Mountain MetalWorks (EDIT: since TJ ghosted us, went with the Microflex Labs turn signal and controller)
- T56 reverse lock-out module
- Digital rear view mirror - AutoVox T5 Pro
- Digital Guard Dawg push-button start (Edit: decided to forgo this - couldn't justify the cost. Just added a push "Start" button to the standard key'd ignition)
- VRaptor Coupe side louvers



Body/Paint
- Would love to have the skills and patience to do this myself. Realistically? Jeff Kleiner is a few hours’ South… Hope he’s still doing this in a few years.


I welcome and appreciate any and all criticism and advice. I anticipate making many novice mistakes. So please speak up if something looks wrong or dumb.

[Higgybulin]

I used to attend the VRod rallies in Niles 15 yrs ago! Welcome to the insanity!! Good luck with your build, it looks like a great list.
Higgy

[edwardb]

... I’ve still never seen a Coupe/Daytona in person and didn’t even know Factory Five made it until 2 years ago.

We can fix that you know. :o I'm only 3+ hours away on the other side of the state. Just spent a couple hours yesterday with a prospective buyer/builder seeing one for the first time. I think the ride sold him. My schedule is pretty flexible if you're ever interested.

Congratulations on your upcoming build. It's an adventure for sure. I'm a Coyote guy (and not bashful about it) but your build plan sounds exciting. Will be following along.

[Namrups]

Welcome to the "club"! I was in the same boat as you are as far as my build experience when I bought my coupe. Between Paul's (EdwardB) build thread and willingness to answer any and all questions, and the rest of the forum members I can say I am the proud owner/BUILDER/driver of an awsome coupe that I built with my own hands! Be patient and plan ahead. Don't be afraid of asking questions (there are no dumb or silly ones!!) Don't rush or cut corners and before you know it you will also be another proud owner/builder/driver!!

[GoDadGo]

I’m calling this car Project Deimos after the mythical Greek God of Terror (I’m an Ancient Greece nerd). I’m planning an LS engine with 625 HP, so terror is what I anticipate experiencing the first time I put my foot fully down.

My goal is a beastly street car, with the occasional autocross or track day for fun but not real competition. This will be far from a purist recreation of the original Daytona, obviously starting with the LS engine. I’m going for a mean looking resto-mod like car.




Welcome Fellow Dark Sider!

Looks like you are going to have an amazing build.
Three suggestions that I hope you take which I think will likely make your build better and a lot easier:

1. Go See Paul's (Edwardb) Car & Check Out His Type-65 Build Thread!
2. Consider Taking All Advice He Gives You!
3. Get Jeff Kleiner To Paint It!

As far as your driveline choice goes I love it, but it will take a little time to get comfortable with all that power. How do I know, well it is because my brother has a beastly 427 LS & T56 in his 1999 Trans Am (Mecham #9 Shown Below) and that car is a crazy fast, even without the Nitrous, so your car will be a mega beast and deserve it's name of Deimos for sure.

https://gm-efi.com/car-feature-skunkworks-mecham/

Good Luck From The Dark Dart Side!

[460.465USMC]

Congrats, Jim! Welcome aboard. Yours is the second LS Coupe build I've seen announced this week! Very cool. Can't wait to see you get your build underway.

I came into my first build with what looks like similar experience and skills as you, and was able to do it. Of course, with a ton of help and advice from the forum. Lots of smart, helpful folks here who are so kind to help us new builders.

Looks like lots of fun aspects and options to your build. You have a couple eager helpers. What's better than that?

Congrats again!

[Rsnake]

Congratulations Jim and welcome to the coupe family!
What's up with all the LS coupe builds�� A great engine choice and I might go that direction on my next one.

[JimStone]

After a quite exhausting and trying day at work, seeing all these wonderful messages has really brightened my mood
So thank you all for the words of support!





Higgybulin: Thank you for the encouragement and luck! Who'd of thought Niles, MI was so well-known!? Down the road in Buchanan is Red Bud Motocross track, which is pretty well known by motorcycle folks. Then there's Sturgis, which is really famous for it's motorcycle rallies.



Edwardb: There is no Coupe I'd rather see in person than yours -- and that includes the original Daytona's. I'm serious about that, haha! Your million view build thread was the first page I bookmarked on this site and I've read through it in entirety at least 4 times, and continue to reference it frequently. FFR might as well print it and ship with the kits as a build manual supplement! I've learned so much about custom car building from your writings and really appreciate your contribution to this site. My in-laws live in Windsor and Dearborn so we're over that way fairly frequently, so I just may have to hit you up on your offer!



Namrups: Your enthusiasm and support is always appreciated. Your build thread was the first that I followed "live" from beginning to end, and seeing your beautiful car now provides great motivation and inspiration!


GoDadGo: Dark Side it is! Your recommendations are spot on and I plan on following them whole-heartedly. It's amazing the power these LS engines can put out with just a cam change. Stroke them and the numbers are unreal. I would be perfectly happy with the 376ci LS (still 530 HP!), but for $2k more why not!? I'll rarely use all the power, but I'll know it's there and it'll sound meaner too.


460.465USMC: Thanks for the encouragement! You can't be experienced doing something without doing it for the first time. My boys and I will learn together. No better time than now!



Rsnake: Thanks for the congrats! I'm actually going through your youtube videos for the 2nd time while waiting for my kit. Thanks for doing those. Yep, the LS engine is kind of a sweet spot between old and new. Maybe the uncertainty with the Gen 4 Coyote has steered some to "The Dark Side", as GoDadGo says. I explored them all - Windsors, Coyotes- but ultimately the LS was perfect for what I wanted: pushrod but with modern EFI, smaller footprint, something I may actually have a chance at troubleshooting myself if something were to go wrong with it.

[GoDadGo]

GoDadGo: Dark Side it is! Your recommendations are spot on and I plan on following them whole-heartedly. It's amazing the power these LS engines can put out with just a cam change. Stroke them and the numbers are unreal. I would be perfectly happy with the 376ci LS (still 530 HP!), but for $2k more why not!? I'll rarely use all the power, but I'll know it's there and it'll sound meaner too.
.

I totally that I agree that spending the extra $2,000.00 made perfect sense.
.............If your plan is to run an Iron Block the added weight really isn't an issues.

[JimStone]

I’ve wanted to renovate my garage for a while, but it became a prerequisite to taking on the Coupe project. My house is blessed with several garages (a big reason I bought the house), so I designated one as my workshop/man cave. I wanted a nice place the family to hang out and enjoy ourselves, whether working on the car, watching sports/tailgating, watching movies, etc. I may have gone a little overboard, but it turned out pretty awesome.






https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198665&d=1714190010

We were basically using the garage as a shameful storage dump. The original home owner restored antique Chris-Craft boats, which is what the steel gantry system was for.







https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198666&d=1714190010

I tore out an ugly dog wash station and planned to put in a cabinets and a big farmhouse sink









https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198667&d=1714190010

Replaced the old, mostly broken, fluorescent tube lighting with 4500k “Daylight” LEDs including an accent hex-grid light system. I fixed the beat up walls as best I could. Then I fixed some cracks in the cement and diamond grinded in preparation for the floor coating. I used a Home Depot rental floor polisher with a diamond grinding disc/pad– it was a major pain in the butt and I’d definitely rent a better floor grinder if I decide to finish my other garages.








https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198668&d=1714190010


The floor coating I applied was from Versatile / Garagecoatings.com – was very reasonably priced and seemed like good quality. First, I put down epoxy basecoat. 100 lbs of epoxy flake was thrown over the wet epoxy with complete coverage. After drying, the flakes are scraped and excess was collected with about 40 lbs reclaimed. The next layer was clear polyaspartic, which is much stronger and UV resistant than a standard epoxy topcoat. It turned out great and I think will hold up well.

[JimStone]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198669&d=1714190010

I installed a Vevor electric hoist with 2200lb capacity onto the existing gantry system because why not?






https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198670&d=1714190036

My son helping prepare for cabinet installation




https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198671&d=1714190036


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199040&d=1714927058

The cabinets are from New Age Products, are pretty nice for the cost, and were delivered on pallets to my garage door for free. I got Birch butcher block countertops from Home Depot. I needed to modify the sink cabinet to fit the farmhouse sink I got from Wayfair. And of course I put in a beverage fridge.

[JimStone]

I wanted some Coupe-related LED signs for the garage walls. There were some custom sign options online, but they were pricey and not exactly what I wanted. So I thought why can’t I make them? I'll have to say, I was surprised how well they came out.





https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199032&d=1714924722

I started by taking an image from Google then used Windows Paint (Photoshop is beyond me) to make modifications. I used a program online that enlarges the image so it can be printed on multiple pages. I used the blown up image as the template for the sign.






https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198675&d=1714190165

I used 3/8” clear acrylic sheet and taped the template on the back so it shows through.



I then used doubled sided tape and super glue to adhere silicone 12V LED strip over the template lines. Each strand has wires soldered to the LED strip that are put through little drilled holes in the acrylic to the backside where the wires all get bundled and connected. 30-50 separate LED strips are required per sign, depending on the complexity. They are powered by 12V DC transformers.


I got really into it and ended up making 4 signs.




https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198677&d=1714190165



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198676&d=1714190165



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198678&d=1714190165



It was a fun winter project.

[JimStone]

Finished Garage



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198672&d=1714190036


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198673&d=1714190036


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198674&d=1714190036

[Namrups]

WOW! Nice work all around! I can tell your build will be awsome!

[460.465USMC]

Wow! Pretty incredible, Jim! What a cool space for your build and family to enjoy hanging out. Yep, heading back over to my build thread to delete my garage pics. :p If your garage rehab is any indication, your build is going to be a blast to follow. And those LED signs, just dang cool. Again, well done!

[M. Townsend]

Beautiful place to gather and share your passion with family and friends. Nicely done!

I'll be following along and look forward to your build.

[jbs72697]

That looks AMAZING!! Excellent work!

[GTM_Vet]

Man very nice! I need to get off my lazy butt and tighten up my garage also! Getting GTM in a few weeks (Completed) and need to make room number 1 so I can fit it and the Vette which wont issue once I unclutter it but I really need to motivate myself to redo the floor slap some paint on the walls and update the lighting also! I really dig those hex light!

[Lidodrip]

What an amazing transformation! The LED signs look fantastic, great job!

James

[JimStone]

Thanks guys! I appreciate the comments

The truth is that I made a decision to spend money on the garage that I could have put towards my drive train. Because of that, I'll be waiting a bit to get my engine / trans. I'll have plenty to do, and I'm in no rush, so I'm not too worried about it.

[Slow and Slightly Angry]

The garage and signs look fantastic. Congrats on pulling the trigger and welcome to the club.

If nothing else, I'd say you could subsidize your drive train selling those coupe signs! I'd by one for sure.

[JimStone]

The garage and signs look fantastic. Congrats on pulling the trigger and welcome to the club.

If nothing else, I'd say you could subsidize your drive train selling those coupe signs! I'd by one for sure.



Thanks!


My wife suggested I sell some signs to pay for the 2 post lift I was thinking about. The amount of time it takes to make the signs, though -- it'd make much more economical sense just to pick up a shift at work.


I ended up deciding not to do the lift for now anyway. I was worried about the permanence of lift and not being able to move as freely around the car and open the doors. I may change my mind later.

[JimStone]

So we're on the road to Wareham to pick up the coupe!

I drove the first 10 hours, so my wife is driving the next 4.

Will be picking up the kit tomorrow at 10AM.

Another forum member, nuhale, is also picking up his coupe at the same time.


I don't have a pickup truck, and my SUV has a towing capacity of 4500lb, so I struggled to find a trailer that wouldn't be too heavy and also would fit the boxes along with the car. I nearly gave up and had Stewart deliver it until FFR posted this picture on Instagram:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199761&d=1716498181



It's the Uhaul 12x6' utility trailer. Put some boards across to support the car and put the boxes underneath - perfect.

So that's what I'm doing:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199763&d=1716498830

[Higgybulin]

Now that's a good looking couple!!! I use that set up everytime! Why pull a car hauler to pick up something that will fit in a 12x6.
Good luck with the pick up!! Drive safe!
Higgy

[JimStone]

Now that's a good looking couple!!! I use that set up everytime! Why pull a car hauler to pick up something that will fit in a 12x6.
Good luck with the pick up!! Drive safe!
Higgy

Haha, thanks for the idea!

[Higgybulin]

Haha, thanks for the idea!

Are you guys staying at the TownePlace Suites? Lots of parking and right around the corner from FF.

[JimStone]

Are you guys staying at the TownePlace Suites? Lots of parking and right around the corner from FF.

That's correct, Towneplace Suites.

Any good restaurants nearby?

[Higgybulin]

We actually came through the Boston area so didn't do a dinner around there.

[JimStone]

We actually came through the Boston area so didn't do a dinner around there.
Okay thanks!

[bil1024]

There is a Five Guys and 99 restaurant next to the hotel

[JimStone]

There is a Five Guys and 99 restaurant next to the hotel

Yep, found the Five Guys!

Swung by the closed factory and shown my headlights through the dark front windows. My first ever glimpse of a Coupe! The blue one and the red Coupe-R.

Can't wait for tomorrow!

[460.465USMC]

Yep, found the Five Guys!

Swung by the closed factory and shown my headlights through the dark front windows. My first ever glimpse of a Coupe! The blue one and the red Coupe-R.

Can't wait for tomorrow!

Woohoo! Exciting day, Jim. So cool to pick it up in person. The F5 mothership is where I saw my first Coupes in-person as well. Enjoy! Safe travels.

[JimStone]

Woohoo! Exciting day, Jim. So cool to pick it up in person. The F5 mothership is where I saw my first Coupes in-person as well. Enjoy! Safe travels.


Thanks Chris!

[JimStone]

We're on our way back to SW Michigan from Wareham (wife's driving now for a bit), kit in tow. What a great day!

I could not be any more impressed with the people and operation going on at Factory Five! My expectations were blown out of the water.

I was hoping to run into Dave Smith briefly to say hello and shake his hand. I'm sure he is a busy guy. Well, I was absolutely floored by his generosity. He spent nearly an hour speaking with me, my wife and oldest son. Told us stories, tips about the car, and some insider information about upcoming FFR projects. Then he took my son over to the merchandise area and GAVE him a $300 RC car!! Unbelievable.

Dan Golub gave us an hour long tour of the facility and gave a ton of great tips. Had great stories about his own LS powered Coupe - turbocharged. All the staff we met were great. Just can't thank those guys enough for the experience.

I've never felt more comfortable signing over a $30,000 check, haha. I'm proud to be part of this family and represent that company and the people who work there.





Our first glimpse!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199781&d=1716596873


Made the Instagram and website front page
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199786&d=1716599735


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199784&d=1716596873



The RC car that Dave gave my son is a model of the red truck in the showroom
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199782&d=1716596873


Happy Memorial Day weekend to all!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199785&d=1716596873

[Higgybulin]

Time to let the real fun begin!!!! Factory Five is always worth the drive!

[GoDadGo]

Congratulations!

[burchfieldb]

That sounds like a great experience. A lot more eventful than the Stewart truck coming to my house. What part of Michigan are you in? I am building a coupe in that state down south of you.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Sounding like a really solid plan Jim. Nice to "kind of" meet you when Dave called me while you were doing your pickup yesterday! Hopefully we'll be able to do it for real and in person soon---hinting again at LCS next month ;) It's a really good way to check out a bunch of cars, meet other builders and gather lots of ideas before and during the build process. Oh, one other thing, fantastic garage update but now it's just too nice to work in!!!!

Jeff

[bil1024]

Congrats! Safe travels

[edwardb]

Well. you can't say you haven't seen one before now! Factory Five's display Coupes plus yours. Awesome! Have a safe trip home. I'm sure you're anxious to get started. Have fun with the build. If you're at LCS, be sure to look me up.

[JimStone]

Time to let the real fun begin!!!! Factory Five is always worth the drive!

The 12x6' trailer with platform on top worked great, so thanks again for the idea!





Congratulations!

Thanks GoDadGo! I'm having a blast so far!




That sounds like a great experience. A lot more eventful than the Stewart truck coming to my house. What part of Michigan are you in? I am building a coupe in that state down south of you.

Brent,

It really was a memorable experience. Had to take 2 days off work, 28 hours of driving, but really was well worth it to see the factory and meet the people behind the company.

We live a about 1000 feet north of the Indiana/Michigan line in Niles Michigan. So pretty much South Bend, which is where we work, send our kids to school, shop, etc etc. Where in Indiana are you?

I've been following your build thread - lots of cool ideas and custom stuff there - keep up the good work!




Sounding like a really solid plan Jim. Nice to "kind of" meet you when Dave called me while you were doing your pickup yesterday! Hopefully we'll be able to do it for real and in person soon---hinting again at LCS next month ;) It's a really good way to check out a bunch of cars, meet other builders and gather lots of ideas before and during the build process. Oh, one other thing, fantastic garage update but now it's just too nice to work in!!!!

Jeff

Jeff,

Dave had me cracking up. He asked if I had any plan for paint. I said it was a few years away but that Jeff Kleiner happened to be a few hours south of me. Dave gave me a bit of a strange look, so I asked him if he knew you. He didn't say anything - just whipped out his phone and called you up right there!

I am thinking of getting to the London show if work/family permit. I've never been to it. Sounds like a good place to meet some Legends and steal some build ideas.

And, yes, I'm a bit of clean freak with my garage now. Luckily, I'm blessed with multiple garages and I have a detached 2 stall garage to do my "dirty work" in.




Congrats! Safe travels

Thanks! Everything went extremely smoothly.




Well. you can't say you haven't seen one before now! Factory Five's display Coupes plus yours. Awesome! Have a safe trip home. I'm sure you're anxious to get started. Have fun with the build. If you're at LCS, be sure to look me up.

Thanks Paul! It's hard to believe there is a Daytona sitting in my garage! Loving every minute.

I'll definitely look you up if we're able to make the LCS.

[JimStone]

Working on Inventory now. Taking my time and getting familiar with each part.

Here's some pics of the Coupe arriving at our home:



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199951&d=1716837484



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199952&d=1716837484



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199953&d=1716837484
"Flew" the car off the trailer with my two hoists



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199954&d=1716837484



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199955&d=1716837484

[460.465USMC]

Beautiful sight to see! Such a good feeling to get the kit into the garage.

Enjoy the inventory process. I seem to like the first 75%-80%, but it gets a bit tedious at the end. That's self-inflicted because I examine every bolt, hose, clamp, toe arm, washer, etc. Definitely cuts down on the surprises though later in the build.

Have fun!

[JimStone]

Beautiful sight to see! Such a good feeling to get the kit into the garage.

Enjoy the inventory process. I seem to like the first 75%-80%, but it gets a bit tedious at the end. That's self-inflicted because I examine every bolt, hose, clamp, toe arm, washer, etc. Definitely cuts down on the surprises though later in the build.

Have fun!

Thanks Chris! I'm checking every nut/bolt too. Letting my OCD run wild!

[burchfieldb]

Looks like the boys are having fun! One of mine is already driving and the other one is probably thinking it might be a good first car for her. I am in Columbus Ohio, the other southern state. Hopefully you don't have too many missing parts and FFR got thier inventory system sorted out. I got mine right after Covid, so things were a little out of wack. Hope to see you at LCS, I won't be road worthy yet, but will still be there.

[JimStone]

Looks like the boys are having fun! One of mine is already driving and the other one is probably thinking it might be a good first car for her. I am in Columbus Ohio, the other southern state. Hopefully you don't have too many missing parts and FFR got thier inventory system sorted out. I got mine right after Covid, so things were a little out of wack. Hope to see you at LCS, I won't be road worthy yet, but will still be there.


FFR has definitely worked out the inventory part since your post-COVID experience. It is very organized now with complete parts list and sub-lists, each denoting specific boxes of parts. Only a few minor bolts and a gasket missing from my kit, and just a handful of parts on the POL that I wont' need for months.

And, yeah, not sure a racecar is the best first vehicle for your daughter. Or second, third, or fourth.

[JimStone]

Finished inventory. It was a very satisfying experience that I really enjoyed. I took other's suggestions and made of copy the parts list for each box, then taped the list to the front of each box for easy identification.

I requisitioned an unused bedroom downstairs as my parts storeroom.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200038&d=1716953312

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200039&d=1716953312





This last pic is my upgrade goodies corner:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200037&d=1716953312

[egchewy79]

if your garage reno is any indication of your attention to detail, the coupe will come out fantastic.
what kind of doc are you? I'm guessing ER or anesthesia. Looking forward to seeing blue surgical towels in your future build pics.

[JimStone]

if your garage reno is any indication of your attention to detail, the coupe will come out fantastic.
what kind of doc are you? I'm guessing ER or anesthesia. Looking forward to seeing blue surgical towels in your future build pics.

Thanks! I am pretty anal-retentive - I suppose that may help in a project like this.

I'm actually an Internal Medicine doc. If I could do it over again, I'd pick Anesthesiology. Maybe Dermatology (make bank giving Botox injections and lip fillers to housewives, haha).

[GoDadGo]

You've Got Me Wanting To Build A Coupe!

........From The Dark Side For Sure!

.....https://youtu.be/7StrICb7EJ8

[JimStone]

Hard to believe it's been nearly a month since the Coupe arrived.

I've learned a few things in the past month:


1) I won't have time to document a step-by-step timeline on this thread. It'll have to be more pictures and comments.

2) I'm going to be my own worst enemy when it comes to doing anything efficiently.

I can't seem to be satisfied with anything as is. For instance, the Koni shocks that come with the kit are powder coated red. Well, my color combo is going to be metallic grey, black, and gold accents. No red. So I became determined to paint them gold.

In order to do that, I needed to sand blast the red powder coat off. My puny 8 gallon air compressor wasn't going to cut it, so I ordered and installed a 60 gal compressor for media blasting and to eventually paint/Cerakote parts. I made the mistake of getting a harbor freight siphon media blaster and wasted a weekend trying to get it to work consistently before chucking it in the garbage. So now I'm waiting on an Eastwood media blaster.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200737&d=1718744533







In the meantime, since I can't do the suspension without the shocks, I've had to skip around the build manual.




POR-15'd black the part of the steering rack that was ugly dull gray powder coat, then installed
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200732&d=1718744457


Prepped the tank with the Pro-M hanger, Breeze big bore relief valve, and genuine Ford filler neck seal
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200734&d=1718744457



Have been powder coating some small parts. Set up a powder coating booth / old oven in the outside garage before the kit arrived.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200735&d=1718744457

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198692&d=1714190433

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199172&d=1715312727

Experimented with some powders from Eastwood and Prismatic to find which ones I'll be using
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199173&d=1715312727





I also got the Wilwood pedal box installed with replacement 5/8" master cylinders (instead of kit supplied 3/4") and 13/16" MC for the hydraulic release bearing.

Test fitted the steering shaft components.


I'd like to take the body off to get easier access, but I'm waiting on my Braum Orue seats to arrive to test-fit. All the dimensions online are similar or smaller than the well-trialed Corbeau A4's, but I'm still nervous they won't fit.

[JimStone]

The garage has become a nice place to hang out, even when not working on the car.

Here's our little guy watching Pirates of the Caribbean while I do some charting for work.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200736&d=1718744457

[Higgybulin]

That's awesome!
Higgy

[burchfieldb]

I like it, starting him young hanging out in the garage!

[TangoUniform]

Amazing build so far and you just got started!

[Alan_C]

The garage has become a nice place to hang out, even when not working on the car.

Here's our little guy watching Pirates of the Caribbean while I do some charting for work.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200736&d=1718744457

So where did you source your neon signs? Do you know of someone who is licensed to make Factory Five signs and banners?

[JimStone]

So where did you source your neon signs? Do you know of someone who is licensed to make Factory Five signs and banners?

Alan,
I made the LED the signs myself. Watched some tutorials online. Was tedious, but not too hard. Still probably cost about $125 a piece with the parts and power supplies. Was a fun winter project.

I showed Dave Smith pictures of them when I picked up my kit last month. Said sorry for the copyright infringement. He didn't mind

[JimStone]

I've been working on the suspension. It's been dragging on because I didn't like the Koni shocks being bright red. So I finally got my sandblasting setup worked out and was able to get the shocks prepped and painted. Can't powder coating them filled with gas (may become a pipe bomb in the oven), so I used wheel paint and clear coat. Turned out okay and much more to my liking and color scheme.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=201318&d=1719970983

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=201319&d=1719970983








Got the pumpkin installed. That was interesting. Used a combination of my electric overhead hoist and brute force. The diff is a salvaged 3.73 Torsen from a mustang with 15k miles. Will be the only used part on the car. Earlier, I opened it up to inspect and clean it up. Looked perfect inside. Replaced the axle bearings and seals. Filled it with Motorcraft XY 75W85 QL differential fluid and Motorcraft XL-3 friction modifier.

And yep, powder coated the cover gold. Too bling? Unless you climb under the car you can't see it anyway.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=201316&d=1719970983







Quality control manager keeping a keen eye on my work:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=201317&d=1719970983








Powder coated a bunch of stuff. I don't know why, but I really enjoy doing it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=201320&d=1719970983

[JimStone]

The real news is I received my seats today. They were backordered a few months, so I was eagerly awaiting delivery.

They're Braum Orue seats. I've never heard of anyone using these (or any Braum seats) in a Coupe, so I was taking a risk. Braum doesn't have a free return policy - is 15% restocking fee plus you have to pay shipping back. But I really liked them and Braum has great reviews despite being a fairly new player in the market.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=201321&d=1719970999







The dimensions were very similar to the much talked about Corbeau A4s. So tried them out and they fit! Kinda!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=201322&d=1719970999

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=201323&d=1719970999




They'd be perfect if I was 6 foot tall, but I'm 6'2". To get the drivers seat back far enough I'll definitely have to move the seat belt tabs. And I may need to make a modification to the cockpit rear lower sheet metal to make an extra 3/4 or 1 inch of room. That will probably make the difference between a very comfortable seating position and not.

[JimStone]

So made a rookie mistake

The outer tie rods would not connect to the spindle steering arm in the correct upward facing fashion.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=201494&d=1720295286





A simple search and of course there's a million threads about this. I had the steering arms switched side-to-side. I had already torqued down the spindle nut and read these are not reusable. $20 for one nut?


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=201495&d=1720295286







See anything wrong here?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=201497&d=1720295286

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=201498&d=1720295286

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=201496&d=1720295286

[Skuzzy]

Wrong? Absolutely! That garage/shop is waaaaaaayyy too clean! My gosh man, get some grime on that floor!

Seriously, looks good to me.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Good to go. Carry on!

Jeff

[WIS89]

Jim-

I think you are off to a great start! However, I have one observation that I feel compelled to share...

The "Gold" on your shocks and pumpkin looks much closer to Navy gold than Notre Dame gold to this Navy guy! Can I expect that any blue colors will be similarly reflected? Asking for a friend. HAHA

I've enjoyed following along. I especially like your helpers and the time you are spending together. I can say that the time I spent in the garage with my boys was by far the best part of my still-in-progress build! Even though they are doing their own thing now, the memories we shared will sustain me for a long time. Enjoy this time with them and have fun!

I also love your LED work! The signs came out awesome, and they look great in your "OR level clean" garage!

All the best!

Regards,

Steve

[460.465USMC]

The real news is I received my seats today. They were backordered a few months, so I was eagerly awaiting delivery.

They're Braum Orue seats. I've never heard of anyone using these (or any Braum seats) in a Coupe, so I was taking a risk. Braum doesn't have a free return policy - is 15% restocking fee plus you have to pay shipping back. But I really liked them and Braum has great reviews despite being a fairly new player in the market.

They'd be perfect if I was 6 foot tall, but I'm 6'2". To get the drivers seat back far enough I'll definitely have to move the seat belt tabs. And I may need to make a modification to the cockpit rear lower sheet metal to make an extra 3/4 or 1 inch of room. That will probably make the difference between a very comfortable seating position and not.

Thanks for the seat info. I'll need to solve this eventually as well (I'm 6'1"). In the meantime, I'm watching what you and others are doing.

As for mistakes, $40 and a little of your time ain't bad. I'd say you're doing pretty darn good so far. Keep up the good work.

[JimStone]

Wrong? Absolutely! That garage/shop is waaaaaaayyy too clean! My gosh man, get some grime on that floor!

Seriously, looks good to me.


Haha, I was just thinking I needed to mop the floor.






Good to go. Carry on!

Jeff

Thanks Jeff!





Jim-

I think you are off to a great start! However, I have one observation that I feel compelled to share...

The "Gold" on your shocks and pumpkin looks much closer to Navy gold than Notre Dame gold to this Navy guy! Can I expect that any blue colors will be similarly reflected? Asking for a friend. HAHA

I've enjoyed following along. I especially like your helpers and the time you are spending together. I can say that the time I spent in the garage with my boys was by far the best part of my still-in-progress build! Even though they are doing their own thing now, the memories we shared will sustain me for a long time. Enjoy this time with them and have fun!

I also love your LED work! The signs came out awesome, and they look great in your "OR level clean" garage!

All the best!

Regards,

Steve


Thanks for the comments Steve!

You must be seeing the flakes of 24 karat gold leaf I added from the Golden Dome. Like they do on the Notre Dame football helmets.

The gold will just be a few subtle accents. No blue. Will be a Ford dark metallic grey color, with all exterior aluminum/chrome powder coated black.





Thanks for the seat info. I'll need to solve this eventually as well (I'm 6'1"). In the meantime, I'm watching what you and others are doing.

As for mistakes, $40 and a little of your time ain't bad. I'd say you're doing pretty darn good so far. Keep up the good work.


Regarding the seats, I actually won't have to modify the cockpit aluminum or cut off the seat belt tab. To make the seats fit back far enough for me (6'2") I was able to trim the reclining mechanism to gain an inch, then bent the seat belt tabs out some. I've been working on some custom seat mounts.





Thanks for the encouragement guys!

[JimStone]

Got the Wilwood brakes assembled.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202453&d=1722731762





Obligatory safety wire picture.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202449&d=1722731762





Everything went together well except the front right rotor. I noticed a very slight wobble/misalignment when spinning the wheel. I took it apart and made sure the rotor was nice and straight, which it was. I was pretty frustrated, thinking the hub assembly must be bent or not concentric. However, it ended up being the easiest fix possible - the little ring that goes in the center of the rotor was not seated completely. A few whacks with the rubber mallet and all was good.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202450&d=1722731762





Put together the parking brake handle assembly. Then realized that my kit didn't come with the parking brake cables because I didn't buy rear brakes from FFR. I got my rear Wilwoods from Summit with a discount code for $300 less than what FFR sells them for. Well, make that $150 less after having to order the cables from FFR. I haven't installed those yet.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202451&d=1722731762

[JimStone]

Now working on getting the Braum Orue seat mounts all sorted. Have gotten a little bogged down here.

As I said a few posts ago, I was able to figure out a way to not have to modify the cockpit aluminum or cut off the seat belt tabs to get the seats back far enough for me (6'2") to fit comfortably. I don't have the steering wheel installed, so hopefully I'll still feel that way.

The seats come with some really nice dual mechanism seat sliders. However, I'm not going to use them. These seats are pretty wide and deep. With how the transmission tunnel aluminum fans outward going forward, the sliders would allow maybe an inch of adjustment before the seats hit the aluminum. So instead I made my own seat mounts out of 1.5" square steel tubing, to be fixed in position.

If a shorter person needs to drive the car, can always do what Dave Smith says he does when driving his Coupe - put a pillow behind him.





First, used Ram Board to make template for drilling into the seat pan. Will be using 3/8" button head bolts coming up from underneath into the mounts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202452&d=1722731762



Took an idea from EdwardB (what's new) and riveted cage weld nuts inside the mount tubes for the button head bolts to fasten to.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202456&d=1722731791






Got a few new tools from Vevor - a company I've really grown fond of for their quality-to-cost ratio. And free shipping.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202455&d=1722731791

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202454&d=1722731791



Unfortunately, I was powder coating the mounts when mid-bake my oven element bit the dust. So, waiting on a replacement element before I can finally finish this part.

[Kbl7td]

I found keeping the seat sliders helped with tilt. While they don’t slide much, and inch or two like you said, it really allows a lot more adjustment for getting the extra bit of tilt or not as needed.

[460.465USMC]

Hey, no more posting pictures of tools I "need". :p Following along on your seat solution. Thanks for keeping us posted.

[JimStone]

I found keeping the seat sliders helped with tilt. While they don’t slide much, and inch or two like you said, it really allows a lot more adjustment for getting the extra bit of tilt or not as needed.

I didn't really think about that... I think I'll see how my stationary mounts go. If I'm needing some more adjustability after I get the car on the road then I'll have a winter project to entertain myself with.





Hey, no more posting pictures of tools I "need". :p Following along on your seat solution. Thanks for keeping us posted.


Yep, always another tool I "need" too. I am liking this car-building hobby, so hopefully I'll have a lot of opportunities to use this stuff.






So here's the powder coated mounts. I'm finishing up getting the cockpit panels mocked up and drilled so I can test my seats/mounts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203255&d=1724810596

[JimStone]

I stripped her bare and have been working on panels

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203260&d=1724810617




The body went in the outside garage

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203254&d=1724810596


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203257&d=1724810596




I had actually already made the trunk box last year based on Paul's descriptions. Notched it for the frame, cut out the hole in the trunk, and got it mounted.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203258&d=1724810617

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203261&d=1724810617




Also got the tank in and made a different filler neck retainer, similar to what Paul did (what's new?)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203263&d=1724810634

[Namrups]

Just a thought. In my pic I have the same jack stands but I mounted them on rollers. Makes moving the car around a lot easier and gives a couple of inches more ground clearance. Still do it this wat with the completed car. Very stable.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=194960&d=1706225576

[JimStone]

Good idea Scott. The extra few inches would be nice and then I could roll it outside when it's time to spray raptor liner, though that won't be until next spring/summer

[460.465USMC]

I had actually already made the trunk box last year based on Paul's descriptions. Notched it for the frame, cut out the hole in the trunk, and got it mounted.

Nice progress, Jim. And, great job on the trunk storage box. I want to make one as well. Did you happen to record measurements/dimensions you used? I can reinvent the wheel here, but if you happen to have these, I would ask for a copy.

[JimStone]

Nice progress, Jim. And, great job on the trunk storage box. I want to make one as well. Did you happen to record measurements/dimensions you used? I can reinvent the wheel here, but if you happen to have these, I would ask for a copy.



Thanks Chris!

I claim no credit for the box. All Paul, of course.

Dimensions are:

23 in W x 16 in L x 5.5 in D

0.04 inch aluminum on the sides and 0.06 inch for the floor (and eventually the lid).


Here's where Paul talks about it and shows pictures:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=317071&viewfull=1#post317071

[460.465USMC]

Thanks, Jim! I've spent enough time in Paul's Coupe build thread I should have it memorized by now. Link is bookmarked now--should reduce the likelihood of having another senior moment. Thanks again.

[JimStone]

Finally finished the seat mounting. It will work well for me. I do wish I could have figured out a way to have a few inches of front/back adjustability, but it just wasn't going to work with these Braum seats that are about as big as could be fit in this car. But I'm happy with the seats. They look good, are nice quality, and are comfortable.

I've bought some yards of vinyl that match the seats (white, black, and carbon fiber) from Braum to use in my interior.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204302&d=1726629730






Here's the underside of the car showing one side of the mounting, which needed an extra bracket made out of angle iron and a backing plate for extra strength since the seat pans are not very thick.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204301&d=1726629730








Been working on fitting / drilling panels. Pretty much done except for the ones that will need me to put the body back on first to fit.

I made the front of both footbox tops removable for access to the pedal box and AC components


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204306&d=1726629744








A few tools I've become quite fond of:

Rivet spacing tool by Mittler Brothers - $42 from Summit Racing

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204307&d=1726629744



Rivet Nut driver attachment for my impact drill. I was highly skeptical this $40 Amazon item would work, but it has been awesome. I have a Harbor Freight rivet nut setter, but I was going to have an aneurysm trying pull those stainless rivet nuts with that. And I broke two hand-threaded insert tools. But this thing does a dozen stainless rivet nuts in 5 minutes, no sweat.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204305&d=1726629744

[JimStone]

I first bought a GM drive by wire gas pedal, but I returned it because it was big and bulky, and was going to be a pain to mount.

The only other option is a Holley unit, which is much more streamline and I found very easy to mount.

The pedal is ugly, though, so I got Breeze's gas pedal that matches the Wilwood pedals, did a little modification and got it to fit very well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204300&d=1726629730

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204304&d=1726629730



I made a dead pedal out of .20 inch aluminum plate to match the Wilwood pedals

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204303&d=1726629730



So here it what it all looks like:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204311&d=1726629760


The pedal spacing seems just fine. I have size 12 shoes, but I don't think my narrow driving shoes will have a problem catching the wrong pedals.










Last update is I got the radiator mocked up with the Breeze fan shroud

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204308&d=1726629744

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204310&d=1726629760



I did need to make some 0.20 inch spacers for the mounts. I'll also need to get a bit longer button head bolts to accommodate the spacers.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204309&d=1726629744






I'll probably work on mocking up the AC now and get the condenser mounted

[Kbl7td]

You’ll likely find that the seat shoulder bolster will hit the body once it’s on. I have to trim my portion of the body as well.

[JimStone]

Mounted the AC condenser.

Lots of talk on the forum about interference with the hood hinges. Its kind of hard to wrap my head around right now without attempting to mount the hood, so I've just followed general advice of mounting the condenser as far to the driver's side as possible. Trimmed that side of the condenser to try to reduce hinge interference. The bottom hose fitting routes easily to the inside of the radiator tunnel (another general recommendation).

I've purchased some 0.185 inch thick steel perforated plate to make a shield for the bottom of the radiator that I'll be confident will withstand the inevitable chunk of asphalt or racoon carcass that I run over. That lower radiator is practically the front bumper of this car, 3 inches off the ground.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204888&d=1728178716







Mounted the AC unit in the footbox. Some say it can be mounted square to the frame, but I couldn't figure out how to do that without making the fittings/hoses more difficult to route. I'm fine with it diagonal.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204890&d=1728178716


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204889&d=1728178716

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204891&d=1728178716






Used 5/16" Rivet nuts and long button head screw/bolts to mount the Tilton 3 chamber reservoir to the frame. I'm using nylon braded hose with AN fittings to run to the master cylinders because I really don't like rubber hoses - just don't like the look. I'll be trying to minimize rubber hoses, or cover them up with nylon covers.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204894&d=1728178732







Made some hood rollers based on Paul's diagrams. I wanted to do these early and get them mocked up before doing any panel powder coating. Glad I did, because the footbox panels needed trimming. I misremembered what thickness of aluminum Paul used and made mine out of quarter inch plate (Paul used 1/8") so making the bend was kind of a difficult, but I got it done. I'll drill the final bolt holes after I try them out with the hood on to set depth.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204892&d=1728178716

[JimStone]

Made the trunk box lid using 0.06 inch aluminum, a stainless piano hinge, a little 4.4lb gas strut and a boat locker latch.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204895&d=1728178732

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204896&d=1728178732






Have been practicing with my Eastwood flaring tool and Rigid bender, preparing to make stainless steel brake lines, and eventually fuel lines.

My practice double flares on the kit steel brake lines look great. But my stainless flares don't look as nice. I can't seem to avoid either having tiny cracks or pits in the flare surface. They have gotten a bit better, but I'm still not confident they won't leak.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204893&d=1728178732

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204897&d=1728178732



Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

[Kbl7td]

I could not get my hood to close properly without the rollers. My hood has an extreme cup to it and wants to turn inwards. Definitely a necessity to keep the paint from getting destroyed.

My unsolicited advice? Ditch those lines and go Nicopp, cheap, easy to bend by hand in the car and they’ll outlive that car. And perfect flares every time with that tool. I didn’t have a single leak afterwards.

[JimStone]

I could not get my hood to close properly without the rollers. My hood has an extreme cup to it and wants to turn inwards. Definitely a necessity to keep the paint from getting destroyed.

My unsolicited advice? Ditch those lines and go Nicopp, cheap, easy to bend by hand in the car and they’ll outlive that car. And perfect flares every time with that tool. I didn’t have a single leak afterwards.

You're probably right about the Nicopp. Hell, the steel lines from the kit probably would be fine too since this car will never see rain.

I already bought the stainless lines, so I'll keep practicing and see if I can get better. My idol, Mr EdwardB, just makes everything look so easy. Haha

[burchfieldb]

I had the same issue and an old timer told me to use the single flare with the stainless tube sleeves and nuts. They worked out well.

Mike Brake explains it well in this recent post.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?45694-Stainless-Steel-AN-Brake-Lines&highlight=Brake+lines

[JimStone]

I had the same issue and an old timer told me to use the single flare with the stainless tube sleeves and nuts. They worked out well.

Mike Brake explains it well in this recent post.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?45694-Stainless-Steel-AN-Brake-Lines&highlight=Brake+lines


If I can't get my double flares better, the 37 degree single flare and AN fittings is what I plan to do. What's another $150 of fittings at this point anyway?


I forgot to mention, I am using double annealed, 0.028" walled tube from In-line Tube in 6 foot straight lengths

https://www.inlinetube.com/products/ss3166

[burchfieldb]

I used the same, as well as trying multiple different flaring tools. I even purchased preflared lines and one of the ends on each tube had the same cracking issue. At that point, I was so far down the rabbit hole that I went with the 37 degree fittings.

[JimStone]

I used the same, as well as trying multiple different flaring tools. I even purchased preflared lines and one of the ends on each tube had the same cracking issue. At that point, I was so far down the rabbit hole that I went with the 37 degree fittings.

Dang guys, not giving me much hope here!

[JimStone]

Okay, I give up. Another dozen trial double flares, another dozen cracked flares. I've tried a bunch of different methods, including following EdwardB's rec's to the Tee, but no success.

I'm committed to the stainless lines, but I'm going to pivot to the 37 degree single flares and AN fittings.




While I figure out what fittings I need to order, I finished making my nylon braided hoses for the reservoirs to the master cylinders. This was my first time doing AN hoses and it went pretty well. Actually was a lot of fun. I'm using all Fragola products. I'm not exactly sure why, but this website https://eliteracefab.com/ seems to have most Fragola stuff 50% off what you'd pay at Summit. I've made two purchases from them and they've been great.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204977&d=1728261683






I wanted to make the fuel pump actually accessible. The tiny little access panel was never going to do after changing out to the Pro-M hanger, if I ever did need to change out the pump. So I made a larger access.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204978&d=1728261683

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204979&d=1728261683

[460.465USMC]

Great progress, Jim. Some good ideas--thanks for posting them.

This week I made the decision to back away from my planned 3/8" SS hardlines for my fuel lines (I'll explain in a future post). Not sure if I'll stay with my plan for SS for the brake lines either (Ni-Copp is looking better and better). Unfortunately, I already have a 25' roll of SS 3/16" tubing. Looking forward to seeing how your 37 deg. option comes along.

[JimStone]

Great progress, Jim. Some good ideas--thanks for posting them.

This week I made the decision to back away from my planned 3/8" SS hardlines for my fuel lines (I'll explain in a future post). Not sure if I'll stay with my plan for SS for the brake lines either (Ni-Copp is looking better and better). Unfortunately, I already have a 25' roll of SS 3/16" tubing. Looking forward to seeing how your 37 deg. option comes along.

I'll be interested to hear why you decided against the stainless fuel hardlines.

I received my AN/37 degree fittings for the brake lines.

I've been reading (or trying to - there is very little info) about using the Eastwood tool for 37 degree flares. I bought the 37 degree die upgrade, but I've been reading some opinions that it doesn't produce very good flares and that I should get a Rigid tool. I really don't want to spend another $150 on another tool

Anyone have experience with the Eastwood tool doing 37 degree flares?

[burchfieldb]

I started with the Eastwood tool and then returned it since I could not get it to produce the double flares. I ended buying the Rigid tool and it works well.

[JimStone]

I started with the Eastwood tool and then returned it since I could not get it to produce the double flares. I ended buying the Rigid tool and it works well.

I wish I had done more research before sinking $300+ into the Eastwood tool and 37 degree die pack. This was an example of "follow the leader" without doing my own research. I would have gotten the Rigid tools straight away if I had.

Lesson learned.

I'll practice some with the Eastwood tool and see how the 37's go

[PNWTim]

I wish I had done more research before sinking $300+ into the Eastwood tool and 37 degree die pack. This was an example of "follow the leader" without doing my own research. I would have gotten the Rigid tools straight away if I had.

Lesson learned.

I'll practice some with the Eastwood tool and see how the 37's go

I never tried to do double flares with stainless, only nicop and they worked great (using my K Tool flaring tool). For my AN flares I used the Rigid tool and have no leaks 5 years later - it works great. I am not sure I even realized I could get the 37 degree dies at the time so maybe ignorance was bliss?

[wedel456]

Regarding the seats, I actually won't have to modify the cockpit aluminum or cut off the seat belt tab. To make the seats fit back far enough for me (6'2") I was able to trim the reclining mechanism to gain an inch, then bent the seat belt tabs out some. I've been working on some custom seat mounts.



@JimStone,

Ordering these seats today. I was looking at these when I ordered by Coupe due to the reported issues with the Corbeau.

Can you advise what you did to "trim the reclining mechanism"? I have ~6' 1" so I am a little concerned, too.

Thanks,

Justin

[JimStone]

@JimStone,

Ordering these seats today. I was looking at these when I ordered by Coupe due to the reported issues with the Corbeau.

Can you advise what you did to "trim the reclining mechanism"? I have ~6' 1" so I am a little concerned, too.

Thanks,

Justin



I think you'll be happy with the Braum seats. They look great and seem to be well made.

I used a die grinder with a 3 inch cut off wheel to trim the plastic housing for the reclining mechanism. I did have to get a little into the steel part of the mechanism, but not too much and certainly wouldn't compromise any significant strength.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205242&d=1728856700


The trimming allowed the seat to sit back another inch or two. For me, at 6'2", this was necessary.

But with the seat mounted you can't even see the backside of the mechanism, so it does not show.

[JimStone]

I'm working on my brake lines, which is going well now that I pivoted from 45 degree double flares to 37 degree single flares. The Eastwood tool is working well for this on the stainless lines.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205672&d=1729742319



Based on some recommendation from this board, I got the Koul Tools lapping tool to clean up the flare as best as possible. I'd like to do everything I can to reduce the chance of brake fluid leaks. Unfortunately, this is the size for brake lines only. The one that would work on the 3/8" fuel lines is only included in a package that is $150 (!!!) so I'm not getting that. I'm less concerned about fuel leaks since it's low pressure.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205670&d=1729742319


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205673&d=1729742319







I'm almost done with installing the brake lines. Just have to redo one line because I screwed up a bend and put a kink I don't like.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205678&d=1729743328



The above bend was me attempting to make a last minute adjustment with a line already installed in the car with one of those pliers type tube bender, which was a bad idea.



The rest of the bends I've used the Rigid bender, Model No. 403, which is awesome


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205680&d=1729743489

[JimStone]

Opinions needed! Which one third brake light?!






https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205675&d=1729742334



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205676&d=1729742334



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205677&d=1729742334

[PNWTim]

Interesting. I like the diode pattern on the top one but prefer the size of the bottom one. The middle is a non-starter for me. I am going to be doing the same but haven't gotten that far along, Did you look at edwardB's light he installed? I believe he used a Maxxima light bar.

[Namrups]

Choose the one that suits you but do choose one. IMO, these cars sit so low that you need something up high. I agree with PNWTim.

[lewma]

Jim

Here's mine lit up for reference:

205691

[JimStone]

Thanks to Amazon Prime Free overnight delivery, I added a 4th option (2nd from the top)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205730&d=1729900184


I think it's your's, Lewma - United Pacific 38947B 12" 14 LED.




So we have the following options:

Top: 17" Trunk Tailgate Light for Trucks from iJDMTOY.com. (Which I now see is probably rebranded United Pacific LED Taillight Bars 37090)

2nd from top: United Pacific 38947B 12" 14 LED

2nd from bottom: United Pacific dual function GLO light bar, 12" 24 LED

Bottom: United Pacific 38943B 9" 10 LED

[lewma]

United Pacific 38947B 12" 14 LED... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UYVVTN2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

[Slow and Slightly Angry]

I like the 2nd from bottom. More of a solid across look. I'm not sure it would be the best with whatever brake lenses you choose though.

[M. Townsend]

I am also in the camp of the solid bar look

[Skuzzy]

Out of those options, I like the Glo bar best.

[UpNorth]

Mine
205907

[JimStone]

Thanks for the opinions guys.

I think I've settled on doing one of the two 12 inch light bars.

The 17" is too big, and 9 inch maybe not bright enough. I didn't try a 15 inch, which I think is what EdwardB has, but I think I've bought enough brake lights for now!


Completed running the brake lines and nearly finished with the 3/8" SS fuel lines. Much easier now that I have the hang of flaring and bending. Will post pictures when complete.

[edwardb]

Have watched this series of comments with interest. I think a third brake light on Coupe builds is important. They are very low and many people have commented to me how much easier it is to see with the higher third light. I don't think the exact one is critical. Whatever your personal tastes dictate. As mentioned, mine is a Maxxima, specifically M63319R, 15" wide, embedded into the spoiler. What I like about this one is that it's partially lit with the running lights. Then fully lights with the brakes. For even more visibility. Maybe others do the same thing. Did this YouTube during my build.


https://youtu.be/AAzI1ulTMV8

[JimStone]

I installed the parking/emergency brake cables, but had two problems:


1) The first cables were way too long.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206619&d=1732253157

Factory Five quickly sent me out the correct ones (love their customer service )



2) More concerning.

After just a few times engaging the parking brake, the cable liners have frayed, exposing the bare cable. Look closely at the picture below where the cables enter the sleeve. It's a pinch point due to the hard angle the cable is forced when engaging the lever.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206622&d=1732253175

I'm worried there will eventually be binding in the parking brake.


Anyone else have this problem?

[PNWTim]

I can't speak from personal experience assembling as yet but just looking at those pictures, the bushings need an inside radius to prevent that. Even then a tougher sheath may by in order?

[JimStone]

I can't speak from personal experience assembling as yet but just looking at those pictures, the bushings need an inside radius to prevent that. Even then a tougher sheath may by in order?

Thanks Tim. I'll try rounding the edges.

Do you think those cables are shot now that the sheath is peeled back? I'm envisioning rust and eventually binding. But maybe I'm overthinking this.

I'd really like to not have to replace them.

[Kbl7td]

Let me take a picture of my cables, I’m not sure why everyone has problems with this. My opinion is that factory five is supply even the wrong cables, I think I ordered like 93 mustang cables or something. BC94840

[PNWTim]

Thanks Tim. I'll try rounding the edges.

Do you think those cables are shot now that the sheath is peeled back? I'm envisioning rust and eventually binding. But maybe I'm overthinking this.

I'd really like to not have to replace them.

When it comes to motorcycles, a cable like that is shot. Parking brake, maybe not? Maybe the 93 Mustang cables are the way to go. I just looked through Paul B's. thread and his exit the bushing? at some angle as well:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80183&d=1517438030

He makes a comment about having to lengthen the mounting point.

[JimStone]

Let me take a picture of my cables, I’m not sure why everyone has problems with this. My opinion is that factory five is supply even the wrong cables, I think I ordered like 93 mustang cables or something. BC94840

Oh thanks. BC94840 cables are only $17 apiece, free shipping on Amazon. I'll probably end up replacing them then

[JimStone]

When it comes to motorcycles, a cable like that is shot. Parking brake, maybe not? Maybe the 93 Mustang cables are the way to go. I just looked through Paul B's. thread and his exit the bushing? at some angle as well:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80183&d=1517438030

He makes a comment about having to lengthen the mounting point.

I didn't lengthen the mounts. Maybe I should have. It was definitely tight the first few pulls until it kind of equilibrated. Now it's okay.

But I didn't realize I was destroying the cables until too late.

[JimStone]

I picked up a Weize Group 35 AGM battery. I did this without much knowledge about the product, but the reviews I found were good.

The price is just SO much better it makes me worried.

But man, its 1/2 the price of an Optima! And it's not like Optima has a great reputation recently.

You buy it straight from the manufacturer. Free shipping. It arrived 2 days later.

https://www.weizeus.com/products/weize-platinum-agm-car-battery-bci-group-35-12v-55ah-650cca?variant=45521388273892&country=US&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAl4a6BhBqEiwAqvrqunl4R4Qr7ABqGoEeDJRn yN7Cgl8uG8CGgzpQ0S-CxgD4JRG9o5MRcxoCz2AQAvD_BwE




Anyone own this brand before?


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206708&d=1732409816







I modified the battery tray that came with the kit. And bent a piece of 0.125 aluminum plate for a mounting strap.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206709&d=1732409816


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206710&d=1732409816


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206711&d=1732409816

[PNWTim]

I have no experience with that particular brand but I am a fan of AGM batteries. I personally have a yellow top in my 69 Camaro and keep it on a NOCO tender that has an AGM setting. Batteries any more seem to be hit or miss depending on what year it is. I still like Optimas but I had a red one die after just a couple of years. I know others on the forum are using Odyssey which have their own problems so you probably are good to go with whatever you are comfortable.

[JMo]

Jim I have the same geometry on the e-brake cables. I made a tapered shim to go on the aft side of the bracket which now presents the cables at the correct angle. To secure the cable I took the little sheet metal "keeper" with the prongs on it and I cut down the prongs to make the same new angle as created with the shim. this worked well, no more scraping the liner off the cables

John

[JimStone]

Jim I have the same geometry on the e-brake cables. I made a tapered shim to go on the aft side of the bracket which now presents the cables at the correct angle. To secure the cable I took the little sheet metal "keeper" with the prongs on it and I cut down the prongs to make the same new angle as created with the shim. this worked well, no more scraping the liner off the cables

John

Thanks for the suggestion John. Would you be able to to post a picture of what you did? I'm having trouble visualizing it.

I need to do something or the cable will fray and bind

[Jeff Kleiner]

Hopefully the Weize is better than an Optima...but if not at least it was only half price :D

Jeff

[JimStone]

Hopefully the Weize is better than an Optima...but if not at least it was only half price :D

Jeff

Haha, my thoughts exactly. And if I ever get it down to you for paint, I'll be sure to bring the charger

[JimStone]

Been a while since my last update. I finished the stainless brake and fuel lines several weeks ago. Used 37 degree flares for AN fittings throughout.

Never could figure out double flare with the Eastwood tool for the SS brake lines, so switched to AN which makes it a breeze.








https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206623&d=1732253175


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206628&d=1732253197


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206627&d=1732253197



Made PTFE stainless flex fuel lines to the fuel tank. Screwed up and broke my first Pro-M hanger, so this is my second one. Note to others: DON'T OVERTIGHTEN or the AN fitting welds will break.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206626&d=1732253197


Made a vent line for the differential


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206620&d=1732253175

[PNWTim]

Looks great. I like the little diff vent - can you please share where you got it?

[burchfieldb]

Nice work!

[JimStone]

I found making hard lines fun, so I decided to make hard lines to/from the power steering rack, power steering fluid cooler, and reservoir. The connections to the pump on the motor will be flex line.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206711&d=1732409816



Using a Keyser brand power steering fluid reservoir, which I swear is the same as the Moroso and other brands, bust $80 less expensive.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207261&d=1733614509


I powder coated it anyway.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207262&d=1733614509


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206630&d=1732253218



Also made hard lines to the fuel regulator

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206618&d=1732253157






But recently I took a little detour from working on the car itself. I really wanted to powder coat my own panels, and do it at my own pace. I also want to Cerakote my side pipes. So I decided to build a bigger powder coat oven.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207263&d=1733614509

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207264&d=1733614509


It will have 2 oven elements with 7000W total power. I'm going to wire it so I can add an element if the two elements are insufficient. Will have an air recirculating fan and it will be on casters so I can wheel it to/from my outside garage.

Will show more details as I get it finished.

[JimStone]

Looks great. I like the little diff vent - can you please share where you got it?



I actually went through several iterations that I weren't happy with before finding the following simple solution:


Stainless 1/4" barbed to 1/4" NPT coupler

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DVYC1XG?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207268&d=1733616409



And a little stainless exhaust muffler

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MZ3L58G?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207269&d=1733616409







https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198687&d=1714190328

[PNWTim]

Pretty clever combo, thanks for the info.

[460.465USMC]

Congrats on your SS hard lines, Jim! They look great.

Being able to PC your larger panels will be really handy. Looking forward to seeing your oven up and running.

Do you happen to have the info on the boat latch and strut for your trunk box? I like your setup and considering something similar.

[JimStone]

Congrats on your SS hard lines, Jim! They look great.

Being able to PC your larger panels will be really handy. Looking forward to seeing your oven up and running.

Do you happen to have the info on the boat latch and strut for your trunk box? I like your setup and considering something similar.


Thanks Chris


Here's the latch I used

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207272&d=1733625574

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016QTS0QO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1



And the strut

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207323&d=1733717707

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0CY25S1L9?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

Less than $20 combined

[JimStone]

I finished my powder coat oven, which ended up being a pretty fun side-project. And, shockingly, it all worked the first time I plugged it in.


I based the design on this DIY tutorial: https://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/09/how-to-build-powder-coating-oven.html

But I simplified a few things, because I'm not looking to make a business out of this or anything. I just wanted to have the ability to powder coat my own panels and Cerakote the exhaust at my own pace. It'll probably end up being a wash cost-wise for the Coupe, but I'll come out ahead if I do subsequent projects.


My oven ended up being 4' x 3' x 6.5' outside dimensions. The interior oven is about 3.5' x 2.5' x 6', so about 90 cubic ft. Big enough to fit the largest aluminum panels and the side pipes.








Materials List:

Structure:
3-5/8" galvanized steel framing studs (20 gauge, 10 ft) x 14-15
Galvanized steel stud track, 10 ft, x 10
9 sheets of 4x7' aluminum sheeting
16 gauge steel sheet for floor
1/8" and 3/16" steel rivets x 800+ (probably overdid it)

Door:
24 inch stainless piano hinges x 2
Door clamps x 2
Single gate caster wheel with spring

Insulation/sealing:
R-19 unfaced fiberglass insulation x 3 rolls
Aluminum high temp sealing tape
High temp RTV silicone
Tadpole gasket for door

Oven bake element x 3 (3500W apiece)
High temperature spade connectors for bake elements

Centrifugal blower fan for a wood furnace - 196 CFU

Controller box / electrical:
PID temperature controller
40A solid state relays x 2
10AWG THHN wire x 50 feet
11AWG high temp wire
Large electrical junction box
PID temperature controller
40A solid state relays x 2
Volt/amp meter
240v rotary switches x 2
Fan motor rheostat
DIN rail components
Cylindrical fuse holder x 2, with 0.5A and 5A cylindrical fuses (for PID controller and fan)
40A circuit beaker (for oven elements)
120v Extension cord - 20 ft
50A, 240v appliance power cord - 10 ft
1/2 and 3/4" EMT conduit, fittings, and 2x junction boxes

Miscellaneous:
Set of 4 casters with brakes



Got pretty much everything from Amazon, except the framing supplies and sheet metal.





https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207988&d=1735019809


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207989&d=1735019809


I had never used steel framing studs and tracks before, but they're very easy to use





https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207990&d=1735019809


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207991&d=1735019809

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207992&d=1735019809


Wool insulation is recommended, but would have been an extra $100 or more, so I went with fiberglass. Is good enough.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207993&d=1735019827


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207994&d=1735019827

This last pictures show the recirculating vent and where the fan will go. The vent helps redistribute the hot air at the top back to the bottom, because otherwise the top of the oven can be 50-75 degrees different and not good for the coating

[JimStone]

The major driver of cost for these ovens is the price of steel sheet to skin the thing. At least 20 gauge steel is recommended, but that was just way too expensive for me. I estimated $850+ for steel sheet alone. So I went a much cheaper route (and will have to deal with some inefficiency). I live near Elkhart, Indiana where there are numerous RV manufacturers. People sell slightly imperfect aluminum panels from the RV industry on Marketplace for cheap. I got all my aluminum sheet for the project for $100. It's 0.032 inch (20 gauge). Not nearly as good at heat retention, but it gets the job done along with R19 insulation, aluminum sealing tape and high temp RTV sealant.



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207995&d=1735019827


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207999&d=1735019846




I originally planned for 2 heating elements, but decided to build in another. Easier to do it now than later.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208006&d=1735024041

The wiring organization didn't turn out very pretty. I'll have to do better on the Coupe.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208002&d=1735019846


It worked first try!







My nifty amp/volt meter showed a problem though - the oven was drawing 43A, which is more than my garage's 240V circuit is wired for (wired for 40A).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207998&d=1735019846




So I actually had to deactivate the 3rd heating element. Now drawing about 28A

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208004&d=1735019863



I'm working out calibration of the PID controller. And I learned quickly I need to run it through some heat cycles OUTSIDE because it was off-gassing some nasty fumes (probably from the backsides of the aluminum sheet, which have some sort of gray paint).


Using an infrared thermometer, there is definitely some hot spots on the back (where the heating elements are closest to the skin) and near my recirculating fan. It gets up to at least 450 degrees inside (the highest I've tried so far).

Most powder coating has temp range of 375-425 F. The high temp Cerakote for exhaust needs 500 F though.

[Higgybulin]

That turned out sweet! Keep us posted on how it works.
Happy Holidays!
Higgy

[burchfieldb]

That turned out really nice! That will be super handy to have on site.

[460.465USMC]

Nice work, Jim! Very cool project. Thanks for posting.

[PNWTim]

Man, I love DIY stuff like this! Merry Christmas to you! I will enjoy watching how well it works and seeing the professional results.

[JimStone]

Thanks guys!

I got it up to 550F, so it gets plenty hot.

The aluminum panels inside expand in the heat (another reason not to use aluminum), causing some warping , but it still keeps temp.

[JimStone]

Well, progress really seemed to slow down for a while: The powder coat oven side project, the Holidays, nasty Flu bug, then vacation.

But I've been chipping away. Mostly working on getting the dash and controls mocked up. Custom stuff sure does take forever.



For the dash, I went with custom Speedhut gauges. GPS speedo, the typical gauges, but I also added a few extra gauges like oil temp, fuel pressure, manifold vacuum. I had an Air:Fuel gauge, but I realized I bought the wrong one (accidently bought the one that only works with AiM units, which I don't have) so that's on hold.

Controls are all push buttons from Billet Automotive Buttons out of Australia, who make real nice stuff. What's cool is they're 16 amp switches so I won't have to use relays for most of them.

The only kit supplied controls that I'll be using are the twist-knob controls for the AC (fan and temp control). I also have a twist-knob control for windshield wiper speed from the Specialty Power Windows kit. But, I got different knobs so they all match.





First, a few pics of how it all turned out, then some of the details. This is still sort of a rough draft at this point:


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210454&d=1739506716


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210455&d=1739506716




Putting the button switches directly on the trans cover panel ended up being a real PITA. First of all, there is a diagonal frame member under it, so you can't put buttons in the middle. Then the backside of the buttons and wires are exposed, so I had to make enclosures that would fit between the frame rails with extensions so the wires can make their ways up behind the dash. I modified the heck out of that panel.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210447&d=1739506698


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210448&d=1739506698


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210449&d=1739506698


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210450&d=1739506698


Looks so ridiculous underneath. But whatever, no one will see it. I'll have some work getting everything water tight.

[JimStone]

With all the issues getting a Russ Thompson turn signal unit, I looked elsewhere and decided to try out the Microflex Labs turn signal. It self-cancels by using gyroscopes and accelerometers to sense when the car turns. https://microflexlabs.com

It seems like a nice quality unit and looks nice. Customer service has been great too.



Did need to make a 2" shaft for the turn signal to attach to. Made out of stainless tube. Although first, I shifted the steering column to the left 1 inch to suit my seat location.



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210446&d=1739506698


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210452&d=1739506716

MicroFlex Labs sent me out the black 3D printed bushing that fits into the end of the 2" tube and fits perfectly with the FFR steering hub.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210453&d=1739506716




I'll be diving into wiring soon, so we'll see how this signal unit works, but they promise it simplifies wiring.

[PNWTim]

Looks good Jim. Nothing wrong with a little Frankenaluminum if it works. I have looked at the Microflex as well since I think the RT unit is dead at this point (really a shame in my opinion). I may be mistaken but I thought during the FF Mark V reveal they spoke of producing a turn signal unit. I am curious if you happened to have reached out to them re: one of their units? Regardless, the Microflex is a really streamlined and good looking unit. I have also contemplated the Ididit shorty steering unit which incorporates everything but it requires quite a bit of fabrication and is expensive to boot. Carry on!

[burchfieldb]

Looking good Jim, you are making some serious headway. For what it's worth, I made some panels that mount under the transmission tunnel, below the switch area, to seal off from water and add some more room to stuff wires and ducts.

210484210483

[Smiley]

Thanks guys!

I got it up to 550F, so it gets plenty hot.

The aluminum panels inside expand in the heat (another reason not to use aluminum), causing some warping , but it still keeps temp.
Very nice.
I am thinking of doing the same, It's good to know it will hold 550F with only 2 elements.
I would want mine on casters to make it mobile, although that would probably require a more substantial floor frame.

[JimStone]

Looks good Jim. Nothing wrong with a little Frankenaluminum if it works. I have looked at the Microflex as well since I think the RT unit is dead at this point (really a shame in my opinion). I may be mistaken but I thought during the FF Mark V reveal they spoke of producing a turn signal unit. I am curious if you happened to have reached out to them re: one of their units? Regardless, the Microflex is a really streamlined and good looking unit. I have also contemplated the Ididit shorty steering unit which incorporates everything but it requires quite a bit of fabrication and is expensive to boot. Carry on!


Thanks Tim

I didn't know FFR was making a turn signal unit. Frankly, it's about time they did that. Seems like a no-brainer option to offer.

I'm pretty excited about the Microflex, but it is a bit of a risk since there's not a volume of experience out there with it. There's no moving parts, so I'm hoping it will have longevity.

[JimStone]

Looking good Jim, you are making some serious headway. For what it's worth, I made some panels that mount under the transmission tunnel, below the switch area, to seal off from water and add some more room to stuff wires and ducts.

210484210483

Aww dang it!!! That's way better than what I did. Much sleeker and easier to waterproof.

I'm probably going to add some panels now

[JimStone]

Very nice.
I am thinking of doing the same, It's good to know it will hold 550F with only 2 elements.
I would want mine on casters to make it mobile, although that would probably require a more substantial floor frame.

I put casters on mine. For the bottom of the oven, I used a 16 gauge steel plate, so it's more sturdy than the thin aluminum walls. But overall the structure is very rigid when all riveted together.

https://www.amazon.com/WEIBIDA-Casters-L-Shaped-Furniture-Cabinets/dp/B0CG5THCDH?pd_rd_w=m8uql&content-id=amzn1.sym.8316a2b5-cd70-46ae-8cd3-b6d53778915d&pf_rd_p=8316a2b5-cd70-46ae-8cd3-b6d53778915d&pf_rd_r=90VWHKTKEP2Z4S2CX9RF&pd_rd_wg=uAlDb&pd_rd_r=0bf660b6-b821-46aa-8505-1ad213e39270&pd_rd_i=B0CG5THCDH&psc=1&ref_=pd_basp_m_rpt_ba_s_5_cp_sc

[Smiley]

I put casters on mine. For the bottom of the oven, I used a 16 gauge steel plate, so it's more sturdy than the thin aluminum walls. But overall the structure is very rigid when all riveted together.

https://www.amazon.com/WEIBIDA-Casters-L-Shaped-Furniture-Cabinets/dp/B0CG5THCDH?pd_rd_w=m8uql&content-id=amzn1.sym.8316a2b5-cd70-46ae-8cd3-b6d53778915d&pf_rd_p=8316a2b5-cd70-46ae-8cd3-b6d53778915d&pf_rd_r=90VWHKTKEP2Z4S2CX9RF&pd_rd_wg=uAlDb&pd_rd_r=0bf660b6-b821-46aa-8505-1ad213e39270&pd_rd_i=B0CG5THCDH&psc=1&ref_=pd_basp_m_rpt_ba_s_5_cp_sc

Good to know, thanks Jim.

[nuhale]

Very cool progress Jim. Love the powder coat oven!!! I want to cercoke my side pipes too. Open to a 2fer? I'm not that far from ya!

The dash is coming out great. I too was going to do the white background so thanks for sharing cause it looks great! I'll use the speedhut gauges tho.

I'll DM you my personal info-

[JimStone]

Very cool progress Jim. Love the powder coat oven!!! I want to cercoke my side pipes too. Open to a 2fer? I'm not that far from ya!

The dash is coming out great. I too was going to do the white background so thanks for sharing cause it looks great! I'll use the speedhut gauges tho.

I'll DM you my personal info-


I would be happy to ruin, I mean Cerakote your side pipes! All seriousness, if mine turn out okay I'd be happy to have you over and we can knock it out in a few hours

I'll be doing mine in "Cobra Black", which is the darkest black of the 1800 F capable Cerakote coatings

[460.465USMC]

Thanks Tim

I didn't know FFR was making a turn signal unit. Frankly, it's about time they did that. Seems like a no-brainer option to offer.

I'm pretty excited about the Microflex, but it is a bit of a risk since there's not a volume of experience out there with it. There's no moving parts, so I'm hoping it will have longevity.

FYI: I recently contacted F5 and Dan G. said the turn signal is only available with the MK5 kit, but they are considering adapting it to others (i.e. Coupe). I'm a ways out, but going to keep a close eye on this option.

[burchfieldb]

I would be happy to ruin, I mean Cerakote your side pipes! All seriousness, if mine turn out okay I'd be happy to have you over and we can knock it out in a few hours

I'll be doing mine in "Cobra Black", which is the darkest black of the 1800 F capable Cerakote coatings

Jim,
If you have never sprayed Cerakote, do lots of practice pieces. It took me a while to get the hang of it. Measurement for the mix ratios are also really important, as they can really effect the finish.

Brent

[JimStone]

Jim,
If you have never sprayed Cerakote, do lots of practice pieces. It took me a while to get the hang of it. Measurement for the mix ratios are also really important, as they can really effect the finish.

Brent

I have not done any Cerkote before, so thanks for the heads up Brent. I'll make sure to do a bunch of practice pieces. I'd be pretty upset to ruin my pipes

[JimStone]

Making some progress.

Entered the realm of wiring, which I've been dreading. Mostly because I'm very inexperienced and the thought of it all overwhelmed me. But I've been taking it wire-by-wire and circuit-by-circuit, which has helped.

I actually started with the rear harness, because it's fairly simple.

I ended up unwrapping and rewrapping the whole thing, which I think I'll probably be doing for all the harnesses. I added wires for backup lights and my rear view camera. I also changed the fuel pump wire to an 8 AWG wire. Probably overkill, but easy to do now and I'd like my 350 LPH Walbro pump to get the full voltage.



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211519&d=1742168060

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211521&d=1742168060





I made a charcoal canister out of the kit-provided coolant overflow tank, which I won't be using for that purpose. I put it in the rear. QUESTION: does anyone know if it's going to contact the body? I haven't had the body on for months and I didn't take pictures/measurements

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211513&d=1742168045

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211514&d=1742168045

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211525&d=1742168974

[JimStone]

Mounted my AutoVox V5 Pro rear view mirror camera to the roll bar. It displays fulltime rear view video - there is no actual mirror function. I ran the wire through the roll bar tube. It displays in 1080p, so it's a pretty good picture.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211518&d=1742168060





My son helping with running battery cables

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211517&d=1742168045




Mounted the horns up in front of the battery. It seemed like the natural place

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211524&d=1742168070




Started a bit behind the dash

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211515&d=1742168045




I also ended up getting a Flex-a-Lite fan to replace the kit one. Just have heard too many stories of the kit fan failing. And it is quite loud. I'll swap it out when I take apart the front end to powder coat panels.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211516&d=1742168045






Speaking of powder coating. A bigger oven needed a companion powder coat booth


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211522&d=1742168060

[Jeff Kleiner]

Shouldn't conflict with the body in that location.

Jeff

[JimStone]

Shouldn't conflict with the body in that location.

Jeff

Thank goodness!! Appreciate it Jeff

[burchfieldb]

Jim,
How did you attach the mirror?

Brent

[Infinitybox]

Total respect for your effort. Sounds exciting for all involved. Please let us know if you need help with your wiring Doc.

www.infinitybox.com

Regards, and good luck!

Anthony

[JimStone]

Jim,
How did you attach the mirror?

Brent


Hi Brent, I used this tube flag mount: https://www.amazon.com/BRCOVAN-Aluminium-Adjustable-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B0BVM4GQ99?pd_rd_w=9XXid&content-id=amzn1.sym.8316a2b5-cd70-46ae-8cd3-b6d53778915d&pf_rd_p=8316a2b5-cd70-46ae-8cd3-b6d53778915d&pf_rd_r=5HC5ZCK8MJQKAB8FZN2X&pd_rd_wg=0rJmE&pd_rd_r=d5b63c0c-f91f-40b0-8935-450aa4e607f0&pd_rd_i=B0BVM4GQ99&psc=1&ref_=pd_basp_m_rpt_ba_s_1_sc

Works perfectly and is very solid. I didn't need to modify the mirror at all, just took off the little windshield mounting thingy from the mirror and used the included screw with a washer (can sort of see below - 2nd picture)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211557&d=1742226367


My only concern is it does stick up a bit over the roll bar about 7/8". Will there be enough room or will it contact the body?

Edit: I looked at old pics with the body on - there's tons of room

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211558&d=1742226367

[burchfieldb]

Thanks for the photos. I was planning on using that mirror and that mount looks like it a great solution.

[460.465USMC]

Hi Brent, I used this tube flag mount: https://www.amazon.com/BRCOVAN-Aluminium-Adjustable-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B0BVM4GQ99?pd_rd_w=9XXid&content-id=amzn1.sym.8316a2b5-cd70-46ae-8cd3-b6d53778915d&pf_rd_p=8316a2b5-cd70-46ae-8cd3-b6d53778915d&pf_rd_r=5HC5ZCK8MJQKAB8FZN2X&pd_rd_wg=0rJmE&pd_rd_r=d5b63c0c-f91f-40b0-8935-450aa4e607f0&pd_rd_i=B0BVM4GQ99&psc=1&ref_=pd_basp_m_rpt_ba_s_1_sc

Works perfectly and is very solid. I didn't need to modify the mirror at all, just took off the little windshield mounting thingy from the mirror and used the included screw with a washer (can sort of see below - 2nd picture)

My only concern is it does stick up a bit over the roll bar about 7/8". Will there be enough room or will it contact the body?

Edit: I looked at old pics with the body on - there's tons of room

Thanks, Jim! I also have the Auto Vox camera. This looks like a solid mounting solution. Also, nice work on the powder coat booth!

P.S. Sorry if I missed it, but what are the holes in your hatch rear wall aluminum? Are they access panels?

[JimStone]

Thanks, Jim! I also have the Auto Vox camera. This looks like a solid mounting solution. Also, nice work on the powder coat booth!

P.S. Sorry if I missed it, but what are the holes in your hatch rear wall aluminum? Are they access panels?


Hey Chris,

I put the access panels in the rear panel to get at tail lights, reverse camera, and the charcoal canister I mounted back there. Hopefully I won't need to open them very much. I may have made them a bit larger than needed...

I'm thinking of covering it all with vinyl or carpet that is velcro'd in place

[JimStone]

I'm neck deep into electrical. It's not my forte. Takes me a long time to wrap my mind around how things work, then still I inevitably cut or splice the wrong wire.

It's coming along, but sure is a mess:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211964&d=1743304360






Today, I decided to take a break from electrical and do some powder coating. It was the first time doing some bigger body panels. I was using my new powder gun, a Redline EZ-50, which is supposed to be a big step up from the Eastwood one.

It did not turn out so well.



First, need to prep the panels by blasting. I used an old tent to blast in. This part really isn't any fun.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211965&d=1743304378


The new powder coat gun

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211967&d=1743304378


I chose panels that would be covered by vinyl or carpet to start with. I'm glad I did.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211966&d=1743304378


Everything seemed fine, but the end result was not good. There were numerous small raised areas in the finish, as if the powder clumped. Very noticeable when reflecting light.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211968&d=1743304378


I had prepped and cleaned the panels really well, so I didnt think that was the problem. Maybe the humidity was causing it (was rainy and unseasonably warm today).

But then I decided to switch back to the cheap Eastwood powder gun, and of course, the next panel was perfect.

[burchfieldb]

I feel your pain Jim! I went through several of those trials when I was trying to paint my 3D printed nylon parts with Cerakote. Super frustrating and time consuming. Glad the Eastwood gun worked.

[PNWTim]

I powder coated a lot of items including an intake manifold on a previous build. I was not that meticulous about prep which consisted of sandblasting and then a quick wipe down with lacquer thinner. What I found was how important it was to have a good electrical connection, plenty of powder and when in doubt, crank the heat or leave it in longer or both.

[JimStone]

I feel your pain Jim! I went through several of those trials when I was trying to paint my 3D printed nylon parts with Cerakote. Super frustrating and time consuming. Glad the Eastwood gun worked.

You've got me a bit nervous about the Cerakote. I'm not very good at painting (and it seems powder coating) so I'll have to practice over the summer






I powder coated a lot of items including an intake manifold on a previous build. I was not that meticulous about prep which consisted of sandblasting and then a quick wipe down with lacquer thinner. What I found was how important it was to have a good electrical connection, plenty of powder and when in doubt, crank the heat or leave it in longer or both.


I'm sure it's user error. The new Redline powder coat gun has more variables to control than the Eastwood. I had the power cranked all the way up. Maybe that was a problem. Or too much air pressure/powder flow.

The grounding was the same. I have an 8 foot copper rod pounded into the Earth with heavy duty jumper cables connecting that to another copper rod I hang my items from.

I'll have to fiddle with it some more.

[PNWTim]

If I remember correctly, 5 - 8 psi was kind of the sweet spot on air pressure with my Eastwood. Lower was better so you weren't displacing powder. And make sure you have a drier or desiccant can in your air line.

Your ground connection sounds more than adequate. I am not familiar with your gun but it is grounded as well?

[burchfieldb]

Cerakote on metal was not bad, only the plastic parts.

[Blitzboy54]

Everything PNWTim just said. The electrical connection is pretty important. The pressure is really key. The last part is finding the sweet spot between not having the gun too close and not too far away. Too close and it clumps. That's what I think happened to you. Too far away and it takes forever to coat or comes out thin. I recommend continuing to practice with scrap pieces. It's like doing drywall. You just eventually get a feel for it.

I use about 5 psi but that's because I have a really cheap gun that is prone to coming out in chunks. Don't be discouraged, my early stuff looked like junk. You will figure it out sooner than you might think.

[ASL67]

Jim I am new and in research mode, so popping in and out of the forum. Here is a video on Cerakote from AC Designs Garage on YouTube that I saved for future ref.

https://youtu.be/faS_BCLcGPE?si=Qh5YH1kfP4sasI1B

no baking

[JimStone]

Thanks guys for the powder coating feedback. Probably had the gun too close and too high of pressure.

[JimStone]

Jim I am new and in research mode, so popping in and out of the forum. Here is a video on Cerakote from AC Designs Garage on YouTube that I saved for future ref.

https://youtu.be/faS_BCLcGPE?si=Qh5YH1kfP4sasI1B

no baking

Thanks for the link

Cerakote has some pretty cool stuff. The C-series coatings are neat that they are air dry and some are good up to 1200 degrees F.

But since I have my big oven, I can do the V-series coatings that are more durable and rated for up to 1800 degrees, which would be optimal for exhaust pipes. It requires 500 degree bake, which my oven is capable of

[460.465USMC]

Hi Jim. I have zero experience with Cerakote, but did powder coat quite a few parts, including smaller panels. In addition to the great suggestions above, I found pre-heating my parts to the bake temp improved coat coverage, making it more consistent. And, it helped fill in the nooks and crannies. (The professional powder coater I used for my larger panels confirmed they do this as well). I used the Eastwood gun, and had good results with both Eastwood and Prismatic powders. Just tossing in my $.02 FWIW.

I'm one of the sick individuals who enjoyed the electrical phase of the build. But will admit, it can be overwhelming at the beginning. The good news is it comes together bit by bit. Hang in there.

[JimStone]

Hi Jim. I have zero experience with Cerakote, but did powder coat quite a few parts, including smaller panels. In addition to the great suggestions above, I found pre-heating my parts to the bake temp improved coat coverage, making it more consistent. And, it helped fill in the nooks and crannies. (The professional powder coater I used for my larger panels confirmed they do this as well). I used the Eastwood gun, and had good results with both Eastwood and Prismatic powders. Just tossing in my $.02 FWIW.

I'm one of the sick individuals who enjoyed the electrical phase of the build. But will admit, it can be overwhelming at the beginning. The good news is it comes together bit by bit. Hang in there.


Thanks for the tips Chris. I'll try the heating the panels trick. I use Prismatic Powders too. I like their selection and being able to order swatches to view in person first.


I haven't done any more powder coating since my last attempt, or much of any work on the coupe.


Went on a nice cruise in the Bahamas with the family.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212444&d=1744170150

Then came home to this:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212443&d=1744170150

Bonus: got to buy a new Stihl chainsaw



Now this is my current status:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212445&d=1744170163



I haven't made it any easier on myself by basically tossing the FFR wiring diagram out the window with all my custom switches and add-on electronics

[PNWTim]

Thanks for the tips Chris. I'll try the heating the panels trick. I use Prismatic Powders too. I like their selection and being able to order swatches to view in person first.


I haven't done any more powder coating since my last attempt, or much of any work on the coupe.


Went on a nice cruise in the Bahamas with the family.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212444&d=1744170150

Then came home to this:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212443&d=1744170150

Bonus: got to buy a new Stihl chainsaw



Now this is my current status:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212445&d=1744170163



I haven't made it any easier on myself by basically tossing the FFR wiring diagram out the window with all my custom switches and add-on electronics

Jim - no pictures in your post, at least that I can see. Guessing you had a tree or some limbs down?

[JimStone]

Jim - no pictures in your post, at least that I can see. Guessing you had a tree or some limbs down?

Oh weird.

Are they visible now? The photos were in a "private" album. I changed it to public, so may that fixed it?

[PNWTim]

Yep, that fixed it. Oddly enough, I love doing wiring. I find it rewarding and probably spend far too much time on little details. The old adage of how do you eat an elephant definitely applies here. And do your best to be forward thinking. Cutting wires, crimping and heat shrinking only to realize the routing you chose a month ago is not going to work is a bit of a drag.

[460.465USMC]

Went on a nice cruise in the Bahamas with the family.

Then came home to this:

Bonus: got to buy a new Stihl chainsaw


I haven't made it any easier on myself by basically tossing the FFR wiring diagram out the window with all my custom switches and add-on electronics

Glad you're able to do the important things with your family. Looks like an awesome trip!

Sometimes it's easier to justify adding a new tool to the arsenal than others, and I bet that tree ended the internal argument quickly! Got to take advantage of those opportunities! :p

I've been away from my build for at least a month. Really trying to savor the process this time, not to mention our "new" (1907) house needs A LOT of TLC. Before you know it, you're wiring will be finished and tucked away neatly.

[JimStone]

I'm working on AC and heater hose layout and have a few questions:


First, I was given a different drier than is shown in the AC instructions. It doesn't have a port for the trinary switch. May be a dumb question , but where does the trinary switch go? Or was I sent the wrong drier?


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212934&d=1745376168

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212935&d=1745376168




2) Regarding the heater hose valve, others have said they mounted it inside the football instead of on top of it. I'd like to keep the tops of the footboxes clean.

Is this how others have routed this? I can't think of any other way. It's a tight fit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212933&d=1745376168

[PNWTim]

The hex plug that is in the side of your dryer should accommodate the trinary switch. I can't speak to the heater control valve location. I have read every build thread available for the coupe and have seen some mount this inside of the front of the foot box but me personally, I am not sure the juice is worth the squeeze.

[edwardb]

The hex plug that is in the side of your dryer should accommodate the trinary switch. I can't speak to the heater control valve location. I have read every build thread available for the coupe and have seen some mount this inside of the front of the foot box but me personally, I am not sure the juice is worth the squeeze.

X2 on both of these responses. I briefly checked Vintage Air's website and they don't sell a receiver-dryer that doesn't have a switch port. Kind of what I expected since that's a pretty common way for aftermarket systems to be set up. So has to be that hex nut. I don't remember from when I've done mine. Two A/C installations and no issues with either. I put the heater valve on the foot box for my Coupe build. (On the truck build I did put it behind the dash but WAY more room.) Done neatly it kind of blends in with everything else under the hood and isn't a big deal IMO. Jamming it behind the dash takes up valuable real estate and would be a nightmare if you ever had to work on it. I've only had to do a couple deep dive repairs on my builds. But each time was thankful I at least gave some thought to maintenance. Agree, not worth it.

[wedel456]

I'm working on AC and heater hose layout and have a few questions:
2) Regarding the heater hose valve, others have said they mounted it inside the football instead of on top of it. I'd like to keep the tops of the footboxes clean.

Is this how others have routed this? I can't think of any other way. It's a tight fit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212933&d=1745376168

I put mine inside as I wanted to have a cleaner area under the bonnet and believe that the lines going every which way is distracting. See my build thread covering the install here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=571964&viewfull=1#post571964). I would recommend not using the bulkhead fittings if you are to do this as it is way too tight and just opens you up to another possible leak area. I used grommets (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09K5GNFHF?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_1) to run through the front footbox cover. Overall I do not really see the downside here. If there is a service issue you can access everything from the top and drop the valve down out the bottom.

[edwardb]

I put mine inside as I wanted to have a cleaner area under the bonnet and believe that the lines going every which way is distracting. See my build thread covering the install here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=571964&viewfull=1#post571964). I would recommend not using the bulkhead fittings if you are to do this as it is way too tight and just opens you up to another possible leak area. I used grommets (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09K5GNFHF?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_1) to run through the front footbox cover. Overall I do not really see the downside here. If there is a service issue you can access everything from the top and drop the valve down out the bottom.

Your points are totally valid. I agree with the bulkhead fittings. Way too fiddly for no benefit. I added two additional outlets plus a glovebox in my build. So limited room which is why I talked about valuable real estate behind the dash. Those were more important to me than the appearance on the footbox.

But one other comment. "Drop down from the bottom." I was never good at working in footwells but at my age and lack of flexibility, even more something to avoid. :o

[wedel456]

Your points are totally valid. I agree with the bulkhead fittings. Way too fiddly for no benefit. I added two additional outlets plus a glovebox in my build. So limited room which is why I talked about valuable real estate behind the dash. Those were more important to me than the appearance on the footbox.


I have zero clue how you were able to fit everything behind your dash... I have the a few relay boxes (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48937-Wedel456-s-Build-Thread-Gen3-Coupe-North-Carolina&p=568546&viewfull=1#post568546) (that you do not); however, those are smaller than your glovebox. I am not 100 percent sure I will be able to fit everything AND get it all connected. Going to find out this weekend when everything goes in with the engine install.



But one other comment. "Drop down from the bottom." I was never good at working in footwells but at my age and lack of flexibility, even more something to avoid. :o


I am a little behind you but not too far.

[8secDuster]

I plan on putting the heater valve there as well Jim. It's tight for sure. I like you, do not care for the look of it on top of the foot box either. Much cleaner look without it there.
I agree with Wedel though about not using the provided bulkhead fitting and just attaching the hoses to the valve and run them through a grommet. Less leak points.
I'm using these billet grommets from Notchead to correspond with the provided Billet A.C. passthrough. My OCD at work here.

212947

212948

212949

[PNWTim]

I plan on putting the heater valve there as well Jim. It's tight for sure. I like you, do not care for the look of it on top of the foot box either. Much cleaner look without it there.
I agree with Wedel though about not using the provided bulkhead fitting and just attaching the hoses to the valve and run them through a grommet. Less leak points.
I'm using these billet grommets from Notchead to correspond with the provided Billet A.C. passthrough. My OCD at work here.

212947

212948

212949

Those things are sweet! I am always amazed at the depth of aftermarket gear that is available. I have gone down the research rabbit hole many, many times looking for just the right thingy (technical term). Half the time I find just identifying the correct search term is half the battle.

[wedel456]

Those things are sweet! I am always amazed at the depth of aftermarket gear that is available. I have gone down the research rabbit hole many, many times looking for just the right thingy (technical term). Half the time I find just identifying the correct search term is half the battle.

Before I went with the grommets (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09K5GNFHF?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_1), I was looking at stainless steel wire glands (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D3DD9J98?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_9&th=1). I already had the holes drilled for the bulkhead adapter so it would have been a pain to make the holes larger. If not I would have gone that direction to have a tight closure along with future serviceability, if required.

[8secDuster]

Before I went with the grommets (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09K5GNFHF?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_1), I was looking at stainless steel wire glands (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D3DD9J98?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_9&th=1). I already had the holes drilled for the bulkhead adapter so it would have been a pain to make the holes larger. If not I would have gone that direction to have a tight closure along with future serviceability, if required.


Ahh... Gotcha. Nothing wrong with that, and it will look much cleaner (IMO) than mounted on top.

[JimStone]

Wow, thanks for all the great responses!


PNWTim and EdwardB:
- Thanks for the guidance on the hex bolt on the drier. I took a wrench to it last night and it wouldn't budge so I didn't know if was really removable. But I'm now a bit gun-shy of over-torquing things after destroying my first $200 Pro-M hanger. I'll put my big boy pants on and get that bolt off



Wendel456:
- Good idea on not using the bulkhead fittings. That would give much more flexibility in mounting the valve.

Using the bulkhead fittings, I agree with Paul that it would be nearly impossible to service. But without them, I think I would be possible.



8secDuster:
- Those grommets are slick! They have black anodized ones that would match my theme perfectly



Thanks guys

[burchfieldb]

For what its worth, i made a foot box extension on the passenger side and put it down there. This is something I will be adding to my store. Waiting to verify fit with other header/engine configurations.

212965

212963

212964

[burchfieldb]

I plan on putting the heater valve there as well Jim. It's tight for sure. I like you, do not care for the look of it on top of the foot box either. Much cleaner look without it there.
I agree with Wedel though about not using the provided bulkhead fitting and just attaching the hoses to the valve and run them through a grommet. Less leak points.
I'm using these billet grommets from Notchead to correspond with the provided Billet A.C. passthrough. My OCD at work here.

212947

212948

212949

Those grommets are sweet! I think I have a few uses for them. Those look like they would work well for the hoses coming from the reservoirs into the foot box.

[JimStone]

A few updates, then the big question I need help with:




I figured out what was causing the bubbles in my powder coating. Ended up being moisture from the air line being spit out of the powder gun each time I'd initially hit the trigger.

I put a better filter/dryer on the air hose and now start the gun trigger when not pointing toward the piece I'm coating.

Much better!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213278&d=1746154756

Only problem is the gun's power supply gave out, so I'm waiting on a new unit coming from India. Free though.





Next, I think now that I removed the bulkhead fittings for the heater hoses, the heater control valve should fit inside without much trouble. Thanks to those who suggested doing that. Waiting on the NotcHead firewall grommet rings from Summit that 8secDuster showed us (thanks!).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213281&d=1746154797






Something exciting came this week!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213279&d=1746154776

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213280&d=1746154776

Tremec GM T-56 Model 11009
1st 2.66, 2nd 1.78, 3rd 1.30, 4th 1:1, 5th .80 and 6th .63

I wanted to buy it before the May 3rd auto parts tariffs kick in. It's made in Mexico (Thanks PNWTim)







So, there's one little item left to purchase -- that vroom vroom thing that goes in the big empty space up front. I'm about ready to pull the trigger, but I still can't make up my mind which to go with.

HERE'S WHERE I NEED YOUR OPINIONS PLEASE!!!



I'm getting a Blueprint LS3. The choice is between:

A) The 376ci (6.2L) with 530 HP, 495 TQ

B) Essentially the same engine, but the stroked version - 427ci (7.0L) with 605 HP, 565 TQ

The cost difference is $2,500



My dilemma is I REALLY REALLY want the stroker for the mean sound and the vanity of having that "427" with the huge power numbers

The problem is I'm afraid I'll kill myself. Or at least that I'll be driving scared all the time.

I've never driven anything like these cars before. We have a Mercedes C43 AMG, but that's half the power-weight ratio with AWD and traction control. I'm not in any way a professional or exceptional driver. This will be a road car with an occasional track day. I'm not an idiot or hooligan, but it would be fun to actually put my foot down on occasion without spinning into a ditch.



OPINIONS NEEDED PLEASE! Thank you

[Kbl7td]

I’m somewhere in the middle of those numbers with my cammed LT, the car is incredibly mild until you get on it. It’s a 6 speed so you’re in control.

[Higgybulin]

Here's the deal....your a smart man, have some common sense I assume. At those power levels when you mash the throttle you are in the danger zone with either motor. You need to get what you want! I mean $2500 at this point...c'mon!!
Higgy

[PNWTim]

l can provide a slightly different perspective. Like you, I had the same decision to make when I built my '69. I went back and forth and finally decided to stick with your option A. My Camaro weighs somewhere between 3100 and 3200 lbs - a little less than half a ton more than the coupe. In short, the torque and powerband of those engines is exhilarating. I can't tell you which engine to buy but I can tell you when an LS hits it's stride those 565 ft lbs. of torque will need careful management. As Kbl7td says, the LS is very mild right up until you put your foot in it. Just my two cents.

PS - word of the day is "Hooligan". Please use it at every opportunity.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Using street tires you won't be able to put all on the ground with either one so...

Jeff

[Its Bruce]

My license plate is "7.0LTR" and R888R's do very well at keeping it under control.

[TBull]

I'd say go with the 6.2L and get used to it. If you still want more grunt in the future you can always supercharge the same engine to whatever level you want. With the stated 530HP at the crank, you'll probably realize between 425 to 450 at the rear tires if it really puts out that much. With some tuning and few changes you could probably increase that output as well. I'd save the $2500 and you can always throw that at it later.

[lewma]

Stick the biggest one you can in there ;) I'm glad I went with their GM427LS 625 hp / 550 ft. lbs. Downside is that it needs a lot of tuning initially but it will rip your face off if you let it :)

[NotDrivingTrains]

Go with Plan A... Plan B is something to look forward to in your next project a few years down the road! (A husky agreeing with a duck... darn it...)

[JimStone]

Thanks for all the responses and opinions! Quite a mix

Summary so far:


- LS's are awesome
- Tires matter a lot
- Either engine can kill you, so don't be a wuss
- Could start with the base and upgrade later
- "Hooligan" is a great word

[neilkuy]

I will venture a guess that when opening the hood, seeing a 427 will put a bigger smile on your face! If the purse allows it, 427 gets my vote.

[Silent T]

I built a hot rod back in 2014 - put in a stock LS3 crate - (430 hp engine) in it with a 5 speed. The car tried to kill me every time I drove it. I think it will be overpowered with any option so you should choose what makes you smile more. go with the 427.

[JimStone]

Been chipping away, but sure seems like progress is slow. Most of that is all the rabbit holes I find myself going down. I'd have this car done if I'd stick to the manual, but there's very few spots I've done that. In fact, I don't think I've had the manual out since before Christmas.



Powder coated most of the panels.

Word of advice: DO NOT BUY ANYTHING FROM RED LINE INDUSTRIES!! Total crap! The $400 powder coat gun from them (EZ-50) is junk. Blew the power supply the 3rd time I used it. Took a month to get another power supply, then blew that one within an hour. So the gun is clearly the problem. But, I found out the warranty duration is only ONE MONTH! I should have known better, I guess. Now an expensive paper weight

Anyway, good old Eastwood gun is getting it done. And my oven works like a champ:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214974&d=1749785551




I'm doing a black out theme, so I used Eastwood radiator paint on the radiator and condenser. Used 2 cans. About 4 light coats. Came out looking really nice, but we'll see how durable it is

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214971&d=1749785551

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214972&d=1749785551

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214973&d=1749785551




Put the radiator tunnel together again and riveted in place. Felt great to finally rivet something permanently in place

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214982&d=1749785590





Been working on sound and heat insulation for the engine bay panels. Maybe I went a little overboard, but I really want to do all I can to insulate the cabin from the engine bay.

First, I used Vevor stick on 80 mil butyl sound deadener (love that company): https://www.vevor.com/insulation-c_12467/vevor-sound-absorption-sheet-noise-mass-grabber-loaded-butyl-10pcs-total-10sq-ft-single-pcs-14-5-x-10-x-0-08-sound-dampening-curtain-noise-blackout-blocker-soundproofing-acoustic-treatment-p_010712078742?srsltid=AfmBOoraUi3a-miuRu-wKPoFiS5e5jApEdZEwQ8wDj0U0N31f8F5tu1B. Then I rolled on several layers of Lizard Skin sound control, then rolled on Lizard Skin ceramic heat shield. I think this will work really well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214980&d=1749785570


Did my first silicone and riveting of actual cabin panels. Still so much to go

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214983&d=1749785590

[JimStone]

Also finished the instrument panels. Skinned them with vinyl I bought from Braum that matches some accents on my seats. Carbon fiber mimic. Also will be using it a few other places in the interior, sparingly. Got it all wired up. Kind of a mess of wires, but the best I could do. Turned out pretty awesome


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214975&d=1749785551

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214976&d=1749785570

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214978&d=1749785570

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214979&d=1749785570

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214977&d=1749785570





Now, my latest rabbit hole: custom upholstery

Knew nothing about it, but learning these side project skills have been a big part of the fun

After a bunch of research, it became apparent that sewing upholstery requires legit equipment - not your mother's sewing machine. For home use, the Sailrite Ultrafeed machines are pretty much the go-to. Definitely not cheap, but will last a lifetime, is portable, and do anything I'd ever want to do, including doing canvas and sails (we're a boating family, so that is an actual future need)



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214984&d=1749785590

Have a bunch of learning and practice to do still

[Higgybulin]

I am going to use that line next time I buy something for the shop..."that is an actual future need" LOL. That gauge panel turned out nice!! Keep it up!
Higgy

[nuhale]

Nice Jim, going into business? I'll need some interior work!

[PNWTim]

You've been busy and making good progress. Like you, I find the journey is at least as enjoyable as reaching the destination. Those rabbit holes are all part of the process.

That Sailrite is a nice machine. I went down that particular avenue many years ago and you are correct - the only thing limiting what it can stitch is sitting in the chair behind it. Sewing sails is a whole different animal. When I lived in Southern California I used to visit a sail maker in Newport Beach and they had these huge layout and sewing tables, it was quite incredible.

Keep up the good work and I'm glad you finally worked out your powder coating woes.

[460.465USMC]

Nice Jim, going into business? I'll need some interior work!

Me too!

The side excursions do take up a lot of time. But I couldn't agree with you and PNWTim more, they are very satisfying not to mention all the learning that takes place. Industrial sewing machine! You ain't afraid! I love it. It's been fun to see the outcomes of your "rabbit holes". Great stuff!

[lewma]

Wish I'd have thought of that industrial sewing machine. I hand stitched a leather shifter boot and e-brake boot. My thumbs were hurting for days after

[burchfieldb]

Looking good! I am a huge fan of the rabbit holes myself. I ended up picking up an industrial sewing machine on Facebook a while back. We will have to share learnings. That one is a new adventure for me as well.

[JimStone]

I've been having a good time learning to use the Sailrite Ultrafeed. It's such a well constructed machine, and the Sailrite tutorials and manual are iincredible. Makes getting up and running easy for a beginner like me.

I decided to just jump in and start with some diamond stitching to match my seats.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215886&d=1751691312

This will be controversial, but I decided to upholster the engine-facing firewall panel. I got the idea from P100DHG's incredible build https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?29393-P100DHG-Build-Thread-Gen-3-Coupe-138/page7.

After the body is installed, it won't be very visible but will tie the engine bay to the interior

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215885&d=1751691312

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215884&d=1751691312

Turned out pretty darn nice. Even my wife was impressed



Next, I started on the transmission tunnel panel Ive turned into a second instrument panel and place for buttons/switches

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215883&d=1751691312

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215882&d=1751691312

I'm almost done, but waiting on a replacement Hazards switch from Billet Automotive Buttons. Somehow I got a momentary switch instead of latching.





But the big news is that On Wednesday, a big package will arrive.

It weighs 630lbs and comes in a crate!

[PNWTim]

Look at you go! Pretty impressive so far. I am guessing the package arriving has a lot of aluminum, 8 can like things that go up and down and some steel spinning around inside? Curious if your final decision was "go big or go home"?

[Skuzzy]

Look at you go! Pretty impressive so far. I am guessing the package arriving has a lot of aluminum, 8 can like things that go up and down and some steel spinning around inside? Curious if your final decision was "go big or go home"?

Probably also has that clicky-steppy-thingy which causes the round thingy to change how many times it can go around with each tick of the time-keeping-thingy. Know what i'ma sayin'?

[JimStone]

Look at you go! Pretty impressive so far. I am guessing the package arriving has a lot of aluminum, 8 can like things that go up and down and some steel spinning around inside? Curious if your final decision was "go big or go home"?


I'm not really the "go home" type ;)





Probably also has that clicky-steppy-thingy which causes the round thingy to change how many times it can go around with each tick of the time-keeping-thingy. Know what i'ma sayin'?

I know whatcha saying. :cool:

[JimStone]

I had a good excuse to take off from work today. Was waiting on a package to arrive. I wasn't disappointed



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216121&d=1752106817


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216119&d=1752106817


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216120&d=1752106817



I was pleasantly surprised by the included Dyno report:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216118&d=1752106817

Of course, I'll peel the tire tread off before I see max engine output, but that's ~ 28 free horsepower and ~12 torque over Blueprint's listed specs. I'll take it

[PNWTim]

I had a good excuse to take off from work today. Was waiting on a package to arrive. I wasn't disappointed



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216121&d=1752106817


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216119&d=1752106817


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216120&d=1752106817



I was pleasantly surprised by the included Dyno report:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216118&d=1752106817

Of course, I'll peel the tire tread off before I see max engine output, but that's ~ 28 free horsepower and ~12 torque over Blueprint's listed specs. I'll take it

Holy blistering horsepower Batman! I think when you take your Skip Barber racing course and you learn how to steer with throttle it will be unstoppable.

Also badass going to the store for beer...

[JimStone]

Holy blistering horsepower Batman! I think when you take your Skip Barber racing course and you learn how to steer with throttle it will be unstoppable.

Also badass going to the store for beer...


It may never see a track, but I think it'll win fastest car in the school pickup line

[lewma]

Nice engine selection :)

[JimStone]

Nice engine selection :)


Thanks! I've reviewed your engine bay photos frequently to figure out how it'll all fits in there


Question for you:
Did you connect the rear two steam vent ports or leave them blocked, as they come from Blueprint?

[lewma]

Jim. I left them blocked. The front driver steam tube routes to my coolant tank

Mark

[460.465USMC]

Wow! That's impressive! Did it come with a complimentary set of wheelie bars? :p

[PNWTim]

Jim - I just reread your entire thread and I tip my hat to your willingness to jump in with both feet. From the powder coating booth to the industrial sewing machine, you're covering the gamut of DIY.

I was also looking at your dyno sheet and I am always amazed at the torque produced by these LS engines. To have 500 ft lbs at 3300 rpm will really make you feel it in the seat of your pants. You're going to love it!

[JimStone]

Thanks Tim!

It's definitely been a journey, but an enjoyable one.

Yeah, the numbers on these little engines are incredible. I can't wait to drop it in and fire it up, but I've got a ton of work to do

[lewma]

Jim, you planning on tuning it yourself, or taking it to a shop ? I went the self taught route using HPTuners then ended up working with an email tuner. The Blueprint tune is 'stock'. Will get the engine running but it's 50/50 if it gets you to the end of the driveway ;)

mark

[Sharris2]

So I'm picking up my 65 coupe, first week in August ( I hope) I like the idea of using a 6x12 U haul trailer. It looks like you used 6x8, 3/4 ply and rubber mats under the frame. Could you email me everything you used as I coming from Toronto (canada). Thanks in advance Scott, scott_harrison@bell.net

[JimStone]

Jim, you planning on tuning it yourself, or taking it to a shop ? I went the self taught route using HPTuners then ended up working with an email tuner. The Blueprint tune is 'stock'. Will get the engine running but it's 50/50 if it gets you to the end of the driveway ;)

mark

Hey Mark,

I didn't get the ECU from Blueprint. I went with the Holley Terminator X Max system, which I bought separately. I see Blueprint now offers the engine with the Terminator X Max, but you can get it on sale for a few hundred less than they offer.

Holley claims it is "self learning", but I know there will be further tuning needed. I'm excited to learn how to do that, so over the winter I can read up on it or maybe take some online courses.

Maybe when I get it on the road in a few years, I'll take it to a professional, but I kind of like doing everything myself




So I'm picking up my 65 coupe, first week in August ( I hope) I like the idea of using a 6x12 U haul trailer. It looks like you used 6x8, 3/4 ply and rubber mats under the frame. Could you email me everything you used as I coming from Toronto (canada). Thanks in advance Scott, scott_harrison@bell.net


Hey Scott,

Good luck with your pick-up. I'm really glad I did the pickup myself so we could tour the factory and meet the staff, and talk with Dave Smith.

The 12x6 Uhaul trailer was perfect (make sure to get the one without the ramp). Big enough to have the car on top with most the boxes underneath. I did need to put some boxes in the back of the SUV, and room was tight. I didn't even get some common extras, like wheels, which take up a lot of space.

I just used four 2x8's as joists. I screwed 2x4's on the outside of the joists to lock them in against the trailer's railing, so they can't move side-to-side. Honestly, the plywood on top was probably not necessary since the bottom of the Coupe is flat frame. It would have rode just fine on top of the joists, but I felt better having a "floor" and it did further stabilze the joists.

That was it. And lots and lots of different sized straps, towels, and moving blankets



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216272&d=1752355731

[Sharris2]

Thanks very helpful info :)

[Lugnut Mark]

What ecu are you going to run ? holley teminator x max

[lewma]

Hey Mark,

I didn't get the ECU from Blueprint. I went with the Holley Terminator X Max system, which I bought separately. I see Blueprint now offers the engine with the Terminator X Max, but you can get it on sale for a few hundred less than they offer.

Holley claims it is "self learning", but I know there will be further tuning needed. I'm excited to learn how to do that, so over the winter I can read up on it or maybe take some online courses.

Maybe when I get it on the road in a few years, I'll take it to a professional, but I kind of like doing everything myself



Jim, please keep us updated on this. Very interested to hear how it turns out.

mark

[JimStone]

What ecu are you going to run ? holley teminator x max

Yup, Terminator X Max. Had to be the "Max" version to enable drive-by-wire throttle body





Jim, please keep us updated on this. Very interested to hear how it turns out.



Will do Mark


Progress so far:

Have mounted the ECU in the passenger foot box under the AC. This took a surprisingly long time to decide on. I really wanted to keep the engine bay side foot box tops clean, so I put the ECU and heater valve inside. Yet, I also wanted to see the indicator lights on the front of the ECU from the drivers seat. The Terminator has no accomodation for a MIL light, so those lights are all you have to see if there's something amiss

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216517&d=1752894589

I actually put rivnuts directly into the bottom of the AC evaporator box to mount the ECU (plus RTV so it doesn't leak)


I'm messing with the Terminator X wiring harness. I'm going to try to make the wiring as clean as possible.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216516&d=1752894589


The harness will get into the engine bay via this aluminum grommet I got. Plus any other wires going into the engine bay that are not in the "Front harness". This is an old photo. I've since powder coated and mounted this panel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216515&d=1752894589

[Lugnut Mark]

Thanks for the info Jim .... i'm currently deciding for my coupe if i want to do a coyote engine or go with what i know which is the LS and HOLLEY EFI will be following your build closely .... So far everything you have done looks amazing and your attention to detail is far greater than mine

[JimStone]

So of course, the first thing I do to my brand new crate engine is take it apart.

Here it is being test fit with the FFR headers, which fit perfectly

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216915&d=1753676896

I am adding some cosmetic touches, so that's why I have it apart.



I got the urge to test fit the engine in the car, so went ahead and popped it in without the trans

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216918&d=1753676911

I'm really spoiled with my electric winch and gurney system. Zero effort and maybe 3 minutes.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216917&d=1753676896

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216913&d=1753676896


I was concerned about my choice of starter not fitting, but there's plenty of room

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216914&d=1753676896



Already knew the oil pan won't work. I have a Corvette C6 low profile pan that I'm preppng to powder coat

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216916&d=1753676896


Pretty fun seeing the engine in there

[JimStone]

This is the garage today

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217176&d=1754275169



No, I didn't sell it.

But I was told by someone I care about that, in so many words, I have become obsessed. And perhaps neglectful of my other home duties.

After some thought, and perhaps to make a point, I decided to put it in storage for a while. Maybe until I learn to strike a better balance

[JTG]

Wow! That is a tough decision to make, but well done for realigning your priorities.
I hope you're able to get back to this after a little time away.

I will also take this into consideration as we're about to start our build.

Jon

[JimStone]

Wow! That is a tough decision to make, but well done for realigning your priorities.
I hope you're able to get back to this after a little time away.

I will also take this into consideration as we're about to start our build.

Jon


Hey Jon,

Yes, try to make sure to keep everything in perspective and focus on everything that is important in your life.

I know I tend to become engrossed in my projects, but I don't think I realized how absorbed I was in this one. When I'm not working on the car, I'm still thinking about it. Watching a movie with the family - on my phone researching. Laying in bed - researching. Etc. Etc. I'm at work, distracted and writing this now, haha.

[Its Bruce]

Hey Jon,

Yes, try to make sure to keep everything in perspective and focus on everything that is important in your life.

I know I tend to become engrossed in my projects, but I don't think I realized how absorbed I was in this one. When I'm not working on the car, I'm still thinking about it. Watching a movie with the family - on my phone researching. Laying in bed - researching. Etc. Etc. I'm at work, distracted and writing this now, haha.

I thought all that was a feature, not a bug...

[burchfieldb]

I feel your pain, especially after starting a side buisness focused on these cars. However it is to help offset the cost of college for the two kids. Which gives me a pass on a lot of things. ;)

[JimStone]

I feel your pain, especially after starting a side buisness focused on these cars. However it is to help offset the cost of college for the two kids. Which gives me a pass on a lot of things. ;)

My wife has tried to convince me I could make money doing various social media channels about the build. I vetoed that. I'm not a social media personality.

Maybe if I was making some money with my time/effort it'd be different, but I doubt

[Fat Larrys Garage]

Jon before I got married I told my wife I will be building cars until I can’t function anymore so if you have an issue run now after 30 yrs she is still here one thing I always say you know where I am at all times plus if you do it right it can become your side hustle

[460.465USMC]

I totally understand. I've stepped away from my Coupe build twice for 2+ months each time, and did the same on my MK4 build. I applaud you for doing what you think is best. Honestly, it can be addicting. Keeping the important things (i.e. people) in the center of your vision is a long-term win IMHO. The good news is your excellent build will be ready when you are, no matter how long you step away. Enjoy the time with your family, etc.

[Lugnut Mark]

Hopefully all is well ….. just know that your dream project car build will always be there …. My last project car build took me 7yrs to complete …. It’s not a race to finish enjoy the build as well as your family … Godspeed!

[JimStone]

As it stands (or hangs) tonight:


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218564&d=1757389252


Details to come

[Lugnut Mark]

Happy to see the car back out of storage …. I have the same wheels for mine only in bronze… did you use snowman’s specs?

[JimStone]

Happy to see the car back out of storage …. I have the same wheels for mine only in bronze… did you use snowman’s specs?

Hey Mark,

Yes, I'm very happy to have the car back home in the garage. It was in storage for a little over a month (felt so much longer).


Here it is being lifted by my Vevor electric hoist. My little utility trailer actually transported it just fine the few miles to storage.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218633&d=1757478255

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218632&d=1757478210

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218631&d=1757478197





And yep, I stole Snowman's wheel specs. I grateful to him for taking the risk and forging the way. That's a lot of money on custom wheels you can't return.

[burchfieldb]

Glad to see that you are back at it! Not working on the car or some part of it for a month would tear me up.

[Skuzzy]

Glad to see that you are back at it! Not working on the car or some part of it for a month would tear me up.

I don't think he is working on it. That garage is just too darn clean and organized to get anything done in it. :)

What I wouldn't give to have that much space to work in.

[burchfieldb]

I agree. I have parts stacked and stashed everywhere to get a little bit of space to work. He must be following hospital protocol for cleanliness. ��

[JimStone]

I don't think he is working on it. That garage is just too darn clean and organized to get anything done in it. :)

What I wouldn't give to have that much space to work in.


The garages in this house were a big reason I bought it. The guy who built it restored vintage wood powerboats. He also flew F14s off aircraft carriers, so was a pretty cool guy. Unfortunately he passed away, but I like to think he'd be happy with what I've done with the place.







I agree. I have parts stacked and stashed everywhere to get a little bit of space to work. He must be following hospital protocol for cleanliness. ��

Does no one else scrub in before entering the operating room, I mean garage?

[burchfieldb]

Depends on which country you are in. I have observed many surgeries in different countries, Spain, France, Italy, Germany, and out of all of them, except the US, I only felt comfortable in Germany. Mine is more the lack of spacee problem.

[Lugnut Mark]

Yes sir ….. sure am thankful for snowman helping us out with the wheel specs 218815