Project Deimos: An LS '65 Coupe Build: Engine no longer overheating!

[JimStone]

Yes sir ….. sure am thankful for snowman helping us out with the wheel specs 218815


I like the bronze a lot. Thought about going with something other than black, but I still am undecided on the color the car will be. Black goes with everything and all my trim pieces are/will be black

[JimStone]

deleted - double post

[JimStone]

I promised some build details, and I'm stuck with nothing to do for 10 hrs on a flight back from Italy, so seems a good time for an update.

First a few pics from the trip. 10 year Anniversary. Road trip from northern Italy down to the Almalfi Coast. Was lovely

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219184&d=1758551070



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219192&d=1758551915





https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219183&d=1758551070





Now, to the build. I had the car in storage for more than a month, but I did work on getting the drivetrain ready.


Totally unnecessary, but I made several mostly cosmetic changes. Some will not agree with all my choices, but that's okay

Used Rust-Oleum Engine Enamel primer, black, then clear. And some gold engine paint for some accents

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218845&d=1757886139

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218846&d=1757886139


The too deep F-body Camero oil pan was replaced with a more shallow C6 Corvette pan that I powder coated gold. Also needed a new oil pump pickup.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218848&d=1757886139

[JimStone]

CVF Racing serpentine accessory drive was installed, but then I had to take back off the alternator and AC compressor to access the engine lift bolt sites I wanted.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218844&d=1757886139

I am using two-piece valve covers that hide the LS ignition coils. I powder coated the covers black. Tried installing them, but found out the coils Blueprint uses for their "LS3 based" crate engine are not LS3 coils at all. They're older style cube shaped coils that were too tall. So I had to buy another set of the flat coils that fit inside the covers. Used FiTech coils

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218847&d=1757886139

You can also see above that the LS intake manifold is now a gloss black instead of the flat black that is standard. I actually powder coated the intake. It's a nylon composite material, so you can't use the standard electrostatic process. I "hot flocked" it. Heated the intake to 400 degrees (this composite takes the heat no problem) then immediately shoot powder evenly across the piece. The powder melts ("flows") immediately. Then you bake it as normal.




Indexed the bellhousing, which for an LS with T56 requires a indexing plate (or to take the front plate of the transmission off to use for indexing, which I didn't want to do)

Came in at 0.0025" runout, well within Tremec's recommended 0.005", so no offset dowels needed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218850&d=1757886159


Installed the Tilton hydraulic release bearing

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218851&d=1757886159


Using a McCleod RST dual disc clutch and a McLeod steel flywheel

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218849&d=1757886159



I was ready to mate the trans and engine, but I couldn't get it to go the last inch. I was quite confused.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218852&d=1757886159

I had the bellhousing and clutch on and off 3 or 4 times before I finally figured out the problem was the pilot bearing. It didn't come with the engine, so i used the "LS3" bearing I assumed would work. But I figured out that bearing actually installs too shallow so the transmission input shaft was bottoming out.

I need the older style pilot bearing that is narrower and installs deeper into the bore of the crankshaft. That extra inch was what was needed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218853&d=1757886159


I did a few other modifications . I'm sure I'm forgetting some:

- Converted the heater hose connections to 12AN (I'm trying to use AN hoses as much as I can instead of rubber)

- Converted PCV system hose connectors to 6AN

- Drilled and tapped a place in the intake manifold for a MAT sensor (not used on OEM LS engines, but used by Holley Terminator X instead of a MAF sensor)

- Racetronix LS fuel rails

- 20AN thermostat housing/water necks (I'm running big AN hoses for radiator hoses using AutoPlumb parts)

- Changed the steam vent tubing to 3 AN, using Earl's steam vent adapters

[JimStone]

We installed the LS motor mount adapters that FFR included in my kit. Then used the hoist to install the drivetrain

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218854&d=1757886199

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218857&d=1757886199


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218858&d=1757886199

It went in easily

FFR sent a different transmission mount plate that is meant to work with my configuration. It didn't fit, but at least was a good starting point. I was able to modify it and get it to work

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218860&d=1757886220

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218861&d=1757886220



Tried finishing up by installing the driveshaft, but wasn't going to happen:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218859&d=1757886220

Now over a year into the build, I never realized I got a 12.75" driveshaft instead of the needed 9.75" (that was correct on my order sheet and inventory). I just never measured it.

Of course, like has been the case with everything, FFR made it right and I'll have the correct driveshaft on my porch by the time I'm home tonight

[Lugnut Mark]

That looks like a trip of a lifetime happy belated anniversary….. Now about the car I’m really digging the black and gold theme and love CVF serpentine kits they are a little pricy but man do they look nice when installed …. Just out of curiosity what exterior color are you thinking about painting it?

[JimStone]

Thanks Mark,

Italy is wonderful. I think we like Tuscany the best, but Rome is always fun. Amalfi is beautiful, but man is it overrun with tourists. We had a car, so driving the windy roads was a highlight for me

CVF's serpentines are really nice. Compared to other nicer systems, it's actually on the lower end price wise. But everything is expensive

I've been thinking of painting the car Ford Magnetic Metallic Gray. I've taken inspiration from this Roadster build:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219219&d=1758594426

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219218&d=1758594426

I'm not sure his name on the Forum, but he's sandmans_ford_garage on Instagram



But then again, I'm not committed to any color yet

[PNWTim]

We installed the LS motor mount adapters that FFR included in my kit. Then used the hoist to install the drivetrain

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218854&d=1757886199

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218857&d=1757886199


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218858&d=1757886199

It went in easily

FFR sent a different transmission mount plate that is meant to work with my configuration. It didn't fit, but at least was a good starting point. I was able to modify it and get it to work

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218860&d=1757886220

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218861&d=1757886220



Tried finishing up by installing the driveshaft, but wasn't going to happen:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218859&d=1757886220

Now over a year into the build, I never realized I got a 12.75" driveshaft instead of the needed 9.75" (that was correct on my order sheet and inventory). I just never measured it.

Of course, like has been the case with everything, FFR made it right and I'll have the correct driveshaft on my porch by the time I'm home tonight

I think a little grease and a solid nudge she'll pop right into place....not. I have actually opened the box and taken out the drive shaft but never bothered to measure it. Maybe it's time to do so.

[JimStone]

FFR did have the correct driveshaft on my door when I returned from Italy

I got it installed and checked the drivetrain angles. I think I have a problem.

The diff/pinion angle is pointing downward (towards the floor) 0.9 degrees. This really screws everything up. After reading through every pinion angle thread I could find, it seems this downward angle is not the norm.


Here are the angles with and without shimming the transmission mount the max I can do without having to cut the crossbar in the trans tunnel


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219324&d=1758748113

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219323&d=1758748113



As you can see, the crankshaft/trans output are not parallel to the pinion/diff.

And when I shim the trans, those angles are a little better but then the driveshaft angle is ridiculous

So what to do?


The diff/IRS is stuck in that position. Burchfield made some different offset bushings for the IRS to change the angle. That was really impressive, but I'm not nearly as capable, nor do I want to take the pumpkin out [**panicky flashbacks of installing it**]

If I somehow drop the engine down (?? different motor mounts), then the oil pan will sit below the frame rails


Any ideas folks? Or should I just leave it and not worry?

[PNWTim]

Jim - I think this has been covered in the forum many times but the differential is fixed so there is no movement in relation to the engine crankshaft/transmission centerline. It is what it is. Perhaps others will ring in but 3 or 4 degrees on a 15" drive shaft is what u-joints are for.

[Jeff Kleiner]

FORGET THE DRIVESHAFT ANGLE. Sorry, didn't mean to yell but I've delivered this same lecture about 100 times over the years ;) For pinion angle we want to see the nose of the pinion pointing down ~2 degrees relative to the transmission output shaft. What you have with no shims is what you want...it results in 2.05 degrees. Can't ask for better than that!

Jeff

[JimStone]

Thank you guys for the sanity check! I feel much relieved now.

I was really not looking forward to cutting crossbars

No problem Jeff, sometimes it takes a bit of yelling to get through a noob's thick skull

[lewma]

nose of the pinion pointing down ~2 degrees relative to the transmission output shaft

What about side to side ? ( top down view i mean )

[gbranham]

And to think, I didn't measure any of this. I just eyeballed the u-joints to make sure they weren't at extreme angles and never gave it a second thought. Everything is juuuuust fine. People...this is why your driveshaft has u-joints. The level of precision folks try to employ here baffles me.

Greg

[lewma]

And to think, I didn't measure any of this. I just eyeballed the u-joints to make sure they weren't at extreme angles and never gave it a second thought. Everything is juuuuust fine. People...this is why your driveshaft has u-joints. The level of precision folks try to employ here baffles me.

Greg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Idk3BVDVHq4&t=17s

[Jeff Kleiner]

And to think, I didn't measure any of this. I just eyeballed the u-joints to make sure they weren't at extreme angles and never gave it a second thought. Everything is juuuuust fine. People...this is why your driveshaft has u-joints. The level of precision folks try to employ here baffles me.

Greg

True, but...I have had cars come in with driveline vibration and found that the pinion angle was out of whack with the front of the pinion pointing up rather than down. After setting it properly the vibration was cured. If you ever see a 3 link roadster with the back wheels sitting towards the rear of the wheel opening I guarantee that the pinion angle is set wrong with the front of the pinion up (and most likely the top off the banana bracket is contacting the panhard bar brace). I find it quite easy to understand and have tried to explain it here many times in simple terms but for some reason it often gets treated like some black magic voodoo :confused:

Jeff

[gbranham]

Yep, I understand there's a little more care involved in a 3-link setup where the diff can actually be adjusted, but in this case, and most of the obsession I see here on the forum, we're talking about IRS. When I see folks agonizing over a half degree, or even a few degrees in an IRS setup, I just sigh. I think a lot of folks who do this don't really understand how a driveshaft and it's u-joints work, and try to strictly and painstakingly follow the build manual's guidance. Or maybe I just don't obsess over the things that don't really matter much! :)

Greg

[JimStone]

To be fair, I did not know how a u-joint works until recently.

And being my first build I'd rather ask the question and look dumb then have a serious problem later that could have been prevented

[Lugnut Mark]

Agreed Jim ……better to ask rather than have a problem later …. By the way did you set the air gap on your tilton throwout bearing … just a reminder …. I’m in the process of checking crank to tranny centerline and setting up the clutch 219357219358219359

[JimStone]

Agreed Jim ……better to ask rather than have a problem later …. By the way did you set the air gap on your tilton throwout bearing … just a reminder …. I’m in the process of checking crank to tranny centerline and setting up the clutch 219357219358219359

Thanks Mark

Oh yes, the bearing face to clutch fingers measurements. I did them a half dozen times to be sure. 0.125 inches. Or definitely within the recommended +/- 0.025 inch tolerance


Btw, do you have a build going? I don't see a build thread, but you clearly have something cooking

[Lugnut Mark]

Hey Jim …. I haven’t started my build thread as of yet …. I took advantage of FF forth of July anniversary sale and received 3 thousand off of my order ! My completion date was 9/20/25 but all the Stewart transport trucks are headed out west so Todd said he was planning on picking up my car around October 7 and I should have it shortly thereafter. I’m doing a gen4x Coyote with a T-56 trans IRS build …… however I’m a drag racer at heart so I’m still on the fence about putting turbos on the coupe. We’ll see after I have the car in my possession it really depends on how much room I have to fabricate everything. BTW i am currently employed by the hot rod shop of Nassau county here in Hilliard Florida . So building cars is what I do for a living and particularly like doing all the body and paint work …. Metal fab and bodywork is what I have been doing my whole life so I’m looking forward to doing a departure from your standard build when it comes to the Shelby coupe …. I’m thinking some wild colors and candy stripes …. Right now all I can do is play the waiting game but just trying to get a jump start on what I can do while I wait !

[Lugnut Mark]

Here’s a picture of the race car that I sold to fund my coupe build 219399219400

[Lugnut Mark]

It was a 427 twin turbo Ls …. It ran on just methanol no water in the motor and had a big tire on it … she was fast… it made about 2000hp

[JimStone]

Wow Mark, that racecar is a monster! Crazy what kind of horsepower an LS can make. Although I don't think you used many original LS parts in your engine, haha

Congrats on your FFR order. Exciting times!

I'd recommend going ahead and starting your build thread. I look forward to following along. I'd love to see a turbo Coyote, but whatever you go with by the looks of your other builds it will be fantastic

[JimStone]

An apparently well known (except to me) flaw in the T-56 was recently brought to my attention. With the shifter in the "forward" orientation (where it needs to be in the Coupe), the gear directly underneath flings fluid right up at the shifter's rubber seal, eventually causing it to tear. Then fluid gets up into the shifter boot.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219608&d=1759200343

Seeing as I needed to take the engine/trans back out to get some things finished in the engine bay prior to final install, it was a good time to address this.

So what's the fix?

There are a few aftermarket shifters that eliminate the rubber seal and instead use a press fit ball-in-socket seal. Bowler's "Nightstick" shift was one I looked at. But at nearly $500, I wasn't too keen on prophylactically replacing the entire shifter.

Lewma (Mark) is dealing with a leaking T56 shifter and informed me of a product from Tick Performance that shrouds the offending gear, protecting the shifter seal from the flinging fluid (at least in theory). At $50, seemed more reasonable.



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219607&d=1759200343

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219609&d=1759200343

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219606&d=1759200343

Hopefully it works!





While the trans was out, decided to paint it to match the engine. No good reason why, but I like it

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219610&d=1759200354

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219605&d=1759200343

[460.465USMC]

To be fair, I did not know how a u-joint works until recently.

And being my first build I'd rather ask the question and look dumb then have a serious problem later that could have been prevented

I hear you, Jim. Even though I have one build under my belt, I'm still wet behind the ears, constantly learning. My small mind only absorbs so fast. I'm learning there are aspects of the build where tight tolerances really matter, and perhaps others aren't as critical. Experience will teach us to distinguish between the two. Until then, I appreciate seasoned and pro-builders on the forum here, even if they have to yell at me every now and then. :p Keep up the good work, Jim, and keep asking those greenhorn questions.

[460.465USMC]

With the shifter in the "forward" orientation (where it needs to be in the Coupe), the gear directly underneath flings fluid right up at the shifter's rubber seal, eventually causing it to tear. Then fluid gets up into the shifter boot.

Seeing as I needed to take the engine/trans back out to get some things finished in the engine bay prior to final install, it was a good time to address this.

So what's the fix?

There are a few aftermarket shifters that eliminate the rubber seal and instead use a press fit ball-in-socket seal. Bowler's "Nightstick" shift was one I looked at. But at nearly $500, I wasn't too keen on prophylactically replacing the entire shifter.

Lewma (Mark) is dealing with a leaking T56 shifter and informed me of a product from Tick Performance that shrouds the offending gear, protecting the shifter seal from the flinging fluid (at least in theory). At $50, seemed more reasonable.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219606&d=1759200343

Hopefully it works!


X2 on the Tick Performance splash guard. If I don't, it will leak for sure. Thanks to you and LEWMA for raising visibility to this issue. Easier to do now than after it's installed.

[lewma]

Jim, easy installation with that splash guard ? Anything to watch out for ? I'm planning on doing mine this weekend.

mark

[JimStone]

I hear you, Jim. Even though I have one build under my belt, I'm still wet behind the ears, constantly learning. My small mind only absorbs so fast. I'm learning there are aspects of the build where tight tolerances really matter, and perhaps others aren't as critical. Experience will teach us to distinguish between the two. Until then, I appreciate seasoned and pro-builders on the forum here, even if they have to yell at me every now and then. :p Keep up the good work, Jim, and keep asking those greenhorn questions.



Thanks Chris. Even though I spend 3 hours researching for every hour of actual hands-on building, I still make rookie mistakes.

Just last night I realized that I was supposed to put thread sealer on the flywheel bolts. It will leak oil without them. So, now I have to take the trans/clutch/flywheel back off. Sheesh.

You don't know what you don't know




X2 on the Tick Performance splash guard. If I don't, it will leak for sure. Thanks to you and LEWMA for raising visibility to this issue. Easier to do now than after it's installed.

I hope it does the job. I'm glad I found out about it before my drivetrain was final mounted




Jim, easy installation with that splash guard ? Anything to watch out for ? I'm planning on doing mine this weekend.

mark

It was very simple. As you can see in my pics above, my minions did the work, haha

No instructions came with my shroud kit, but there is an installation video on Tick's website.

Hardest part is trying to fit a wrench around the nuts in the tight space. I actually had to grind down the sides of a 15mm wrench to fit in there

[lewma]

Hardest part is trying to fit a wrench around the nuts in the tight space. I actually had to grind down the sides of a 15mm wrench to fit in there

I've got to try and do that through the top of the trans tunnel. I'm not removing the transmission.

[Jeff Kleiner]

...Just last night I realized that I was supposed to put thread sealer on the flywheel bolts. It will leak oil without them...



Confirm that with your engine builder Jim. This is true for for 302 Windsors but not 351s however I can't speak for stroker crankshafts.

Jeff

[JimStone]

Confirm that with your engine builder Jim. This is true for for 302 Windsors but not 351s however I can't speak for stroker crankshafts.

Jeff


Hey Jeff

Blueprint actually put a nice big tag on the back of the engine stating specifically the crank/flywheel bolts needed sealer to prevent oil leakage.

Of course, I cut the tag off to paint the engine then completely forgot about it. Yesterday, I found the darn tag under some towels.

[JimStone]

I've got to try and do that through the top of the trans tunnel. I'm not removing the transmission.

Good luck with that.

The cross bar is right over one of the shifter plate bolts (for me at least), so I don't know how you'll get that off.

I'm not sure how you'd get access without cutting that bar or dropping the trans

Edit: maybe if you drop the transmission mount cross brace and loosen the motor mount nuts, you might be able to tilt the transmission down just enough to access it

[lewma]

Ugh

[JimStone]

I had the engine/trans/clutch back apart in order to add PTFE thread sealant on the flywheel bolts into the crank. 5 hours of work because I didn't follow Blueprints warning tags. But necessary so it doesn't leak oil.


Drivetrain is back in the car, but now I have another concern.

How much exposed slip yoke is there supposed to be on the driveshaft before the seal on the transmission?

Mine is so close it's squishing the seal. Without the seal, there is 1/2 inch of clearance to the tail of the transmission


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219902&d=1759899649


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219903&d=1759899649



I've measured the slip yoke and transmission splines. It's not even close to bottoming out, so that's not a concern.

The seal will be toast if I don't trim it back.

But is this okay?

The only thing I can think to make this better would be to have the driveshaft shortened an inch, or move the engine forward an inch. I really don't want to do either

Opinions are appreciated!

[edwardb]

Somewhere around 3/4" of exposed slip joint is what you should see. Not super critical for an IRS setup like yours. But normally you need at least that much to get the driveshaft in and out without taking other stuff apart. Plus it shouldn't be tight against the seal like that. Fix it right with the proper driveshaft length. I wouldn't recommend messing with the seal. Moving the engine is way more work plus has other consequences.

[burchfieldb]

Did FFR send you the wrong drive shaft by mistake?

[JimStone]

Somewhere around 3/4" of exposed slip joint is what you should see. Not super critical for an IRS setup like yours. But normally you need at least that much to get the driveshaft in and out without taking other stuff apart. Plus it shouldn't be tight against the seal like that. Fix it right with the proper driveshaft length. I wouldn't recommend messing with the seal. Moving the engine is way more work plus has other consequences.

Thank you Paul

I'm going to change the driveshaft (again)




Did FFR send you the wrong drive shaft by mistake?


When I ordered my kit, Dan Golub said for my LS/T-56/IRS that a 9.75" driveshaft was needed. It looks like I really need the smallest one FFR lists, 8.325"


Welp, anyone need a "9.75" driveshaft?

[PNWTim]

That's a bummer. I just called them last Friday to confirm I have the correct drive shaft for my Coyote/T-56 arrangement (which I do). It is the one you currently have but I would think the shorter one is a better option. That seal would last about 3 blocks as is.

[JimStone]

From 10 feet back, doesn't look like I've done much in the past month. But little things are getting done that seem to take more time than you'd think.



Finally got the right driveshaft installed. Only took 3 attempts. It's such an itty bitty thing. 8.375".

Now there is the appropriate 3/4 to 1 inch slip yoke showing past the seal.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220891&d=1761887147


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220896&d=1761887297

I've got 2 driveshaft listed in the "for sale" section of the forum if anyone's interested...





With that done, I was finally able to torque down motor and trans mount bolts for hopefully the last time. Then I could get to work on hooking up all the sensors, wires, hoses, to the engine. Also finalize the front accessory drive.



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220893&d=1761887147



Fuel lines to the regulator then return back to the fuel tank. And line from the regulator to the fuel rails. I have a fuel pressure sensor right before the fuel rail that feeds a gauge at my secondary gauge panel.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220892&d=1761887147



Here you can see the Moroso catch can within the PCV/ventilation system lines. For my LS engine, there isn't really a PCV "valve" per se. It's just a barbed tube that comes out of the driver's side valve cover with a restrictor orifice to regulate air flow.
From there it runs to my catch can then into the intake manifold. I did convert everything from rubber hose to AN lines, which I much prefer the look of.

Also have a 200 amp fuse for the alternator mounted to the firewall. That then connects to the battery side of the battery cut-off switch

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220898&d=1761887297



I ditched the kit supplied corrugated radiator hose and instead used AutoPlumb AN conversion fittings and 20AN hose for my radiator lines. Those hoses are pretty stiff so I'm interested to see how the waterneck to AN fittings hold up. It looks pretty cool though.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220509&d=1761051543

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220508&d=1761051543

[JimStone]

The LS3 uses a "surge tank" in the coolant system. It's the tank to the right in the following picture. It's plumbed into the heater hose circuit and has the radiator cap, which is the highest part of the coolant system. A steam vent hose connects to the surge tank from the driver's side cylinder head. Normally all this is rubber hose, but I converted it all to AN

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220899&d=1761887297




I cut a 90 degree, 4 inch aluminum tube to make the air intake. I'll be powder coating it eventually . Using a K&N air filter at the end.

The small black reservoir, mounted between the driver's side frame rails, is a Chase Bays windshield washer fluid reservoir and pump.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220897&d=1761887297







Now I'm working on getting the front footboox panels final mounted so I can finish the heater hose and AC lines. Also finishing the engine wire harness routing.

When that's done, I'll be pretty darn close to First Start. Can't wait!

[JTG]

Finally got the right driveshaft installed. Only took 3 attempts. It's such an itty bitty thing. 8.375".

Now there is the appropriate 3/4 to 1 inch slip yoke showing past the seal.



My son worked for a diesel mechanic over the summer where the average driveshaft length is about 1-1/2 miles. He was really amused to see the tiny driveshaft for the coupe, but in comparison to yours our version looks enormous!!


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220914&d=1761918500

[PNWTim]

I really like the washer reservoir and pump. Curious which bracket you used to mount it? I have also never seen and external surge tank. My steam line was plumbed into my radiator which must have an integrated one? Probably not possible with the limited space in these builds.

You are making great progress! Maybe first start will be an early Christmas?

[JimStone]

My son worked for a diesel mechanic over the summer where the average driveshaft length is about 1-1/2 miles. He was really amused to see the tiny driveshaft for the coupe, but in comparison to yours our version looks enormous!!


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220914&d=1761918500


With how relatively small the LS is compared to a Coyote, I'm surprised at how much shorter my driveshaft is. Maybe the GM T56 is longer than the Ford?

Anyway, have fun with your build!






I really like the washer reservoir and pump. Curious which bracket you used to mount it? I have also never seen and external surge tank. My steam line was plumbed into my radiator which must have an integrated one? Probably not possible with the limited space in these builds.

You are making great progress! Maybe first start will be an early Christmas?






There are definitely different ways to rig up the cooling system,. Here's the diagram that I've mostly replicated. It does show the steam vent first going to the radiator, then a vent to the surge tank. I instead just sent the steam directly to the surge tank.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220915&d=1761922329




First start by Christmas I think is possible. But then again, I always underestimate how long it takes me to do things. It amazes me at how quickly others can go.

[460.465USMC]

From 10 feet back, doesn't look like I've done much in the past month. But little things are getting done that seem to take more time than you'd think.

I hear you. I can appreciate the thoughtfulness and time it takes to implement the build the way you want it. Those "mods" / upgrades take time as well. Especially, when you get to the end, chomping at the bit to get it on the road. But the punch list seems to grow and grow.

I think you're making great progress, and I'm enjoying all of the cool touches you're adding. Build on!

[lewma]

Great progress Jim!

[neilkuy]

I spent quite a bit of time looking at the cooling system since the LS setup is very different. I will find out if it is right when it regulates (or not) the temp well.
I used a similar approach for the cooling system. I got a custom radiator so the ports are both on the right side to make plumbing a little easier. My steam port T’s into a line that comes from the radiator and sends to the surge tank. I reasoned that since the radiator is lower than the top of the engine, routing it there wouldn’t do what the diagram intends. My surge tank is the highest point and the only fill port so I think it should be ok. I have had mine running and noticed that the steam vent has fluid running through it constantly. Especially when the thermostat is closed because the line from the radiator to the surge tank becomes a very small bypass to the thermostat.

My setup is an LS and a t56, I had to cut down my driveshaft to 5 3/16” to fit. Just had mine rolling under its own power for the first time this week.
Congrats on the progress. You are quickly going to surpass my progress!

[Mattimous]

Hi, I'm in West Michigan also building a LS/T56 coupe. I came across the same issue with the driveshaft seal and should be getting the correct length here soon. I have a question regarding the clearance on the passenger side of the transmission, did you have clearance issues with yours?
Mine seems to be touching on the passenger side frame around where the cross member bolts in as shown here
221469

is this why you made the additional slots in the transmission cross member shown here?
221470

Thanks, Matt

[JimStone]

Hi, I'm in West Michigan also building a LS/T56 coupe. I came across the same issue with the driveshaft seal and should be getting the correct length here soon. I have a question regarding the clearance on the passenger side of the transmission, did you have clearance issues with yours?
Mine seems to be touching on the passenger side frame around where the cross member bolts in as shown here
221469

is this why you made the additional slots in the transmission cross member shown here?
221470

Thanks, Matt



Hey Matt, and welcome to the Forum!

Lots of LS/T56 Coupes being built right now, which is cool



Yes, the passenger side of the T56 is very tight. Honestly, I don't think I even realized just how tight it was until I climbed under there just now to take some pictures. I had the Engine/trans in and out three times without a problem. Better lucky than good!



Here is a pic of just how close the transmission gets to the passenger side cross member mount. I'm sure either the mount and/or transmission case could be grinded down a few mm if needed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221490&d=1763068526



Here's another place on the lateral passenger side of the trans that nearly hits the frame

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221489&d=1763068526




The slots I made in my modified trans mount cross member/bracket were needed because that's where the trans mount bolts naturally aligned when I had the engine bolted in. At least for me, the FFR supplied bracket just wouldn't work without modification.

I actually later had to enlarge my slots because I was off when I modified the bracket. Here's whatt I ended up with

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221488&d=1763068526

[Mattimous]

Thank you for the quick reply and getting out there to get some pictures, both locations are quite tight for me also. I think I will trim down the spot by the cross member as it is basically touching in my installation.

[JimStone]

Brief update

I have wanted to change out as many rubber hoses to AN braided hoses and AN fittings as possible. That includes the heater hoses. Earlier, I yanked out the LS's pressed-in barb fittings from the water pump, tapped NPT threads into the outlets, and installed AN connections. But converting the heater core side to AN proved much harder since I also wanted to hide the heater valve in the footbox (I'm keeping both footbox tops clean/bare). After numerous different failed configurations and much head scratching, I finally did it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221530&d=1763156853

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221529&d=1763156853

Basically, it goes: heater core --> short rubber hoses--> valve --> short rubber hoses through NotcHead firewall rings --> push lock to 12AN adaptors

As you can see, it's extremely tight. I even had to notch the frame rail for the valve to fit in there.

It could have gone easier if I hadn't already drilled the grommet holes in the aluminum panel a year ago before I decided to do all this. Instead, the holes weren't really lined up optimally


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221532&d=1763156853

The gold/tan sleeves are basalt fiber heat shields that I'm using on sections of hoses and wires that route near the headers. Who knew they could make fiber out of lava rocks!?




Other items:

Installed the driveshaft safety loop. Made a bracket out of angle iron. Could have welded it instead of bolted, but I suck at welding

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221531&d=1763156853



I'm ready to bleed the master cylinders then clutch/brake lines, but I knew that brake fluid would inevitably leak onto the fuse box immediately below. So I made a little shield that would direct fluid away from the connections

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221533&d=1763156853




Lastly,

I've been trying to finish up the footboxes, so I started upholstering the inside panels. I'm using psuedo leather vinyl that matches my seats very closely. Got it from Sailrite. Love that company.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221534&d=1763156866


It's not perfect, but nothing I do is. I'm satisfied with the effort.

[PNWTim]

Your hoses look good Jim. I love the AN look but I am deep enough into some of my stuff I'm just not willing to change directions. Your brake fluid shield is pretty clever and even if it prevents one drop it's worth it. And I love Sailrite as well. They have a lot going on.

[JimStone]

Thanks Tim,

The AN stuff is nice, but honestly I could have put some sort of braided fiber sleeves over the rubber hoses then Gates Powergrip'ed the ends and it would have looked just as nice. Would have saved a bunch of $ in fittings (those add up quickly) and hoses

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Fiberglass-Shield-Sleeve-10Black-Adjustable/dp/B07PJJZW6C/ref=sr_1_17?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.qZdnQ0-8snehrw4KI3_GWtQ_ocDOb0RWnSvBILkitNHkGYjEFse5jaAh1 58kIgO_5CgRvo8npJiEJE21SW063v0zOmaQPKjM680DqdteDFn 9lYrWPTLvPc6stR3_LZDxHAUgmI4wmWdhl4ri_fv4zzXOBrPPx Vdb0jflt0f6wWnFf-WDGp06IZgPYTtohqz_-adx7lbmxh0mFV9oTHi0RKIqStCTEGUI3txs2rJ0ESQ.jRDfAaj W8e8glYiOdpvKRAySpOgdtM26imbLQu9G3kY&dib_tag=se&keywords=carbon%2Bfiber%2Bsleeve&qid=1763177051&sr=8-17&th=1



But I really do love making AN hose endings. It's very satisfying :D

[JimStone]

Public Service Announcement

Check your AC hoses and fittings for mismatch reduced and standard barrier BEFORE crimping




I didn't even know there was such a thing as reduced barrier vs standard until I was cruising along crimping hose fittings nicely with my excellent Mastercool imitation AC hose crimper, made by Vevor (my fave discount tool supplier), when I crimped this dud

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221558&d=1763183552


I was stumped. Bad fitting? All the previous were good

Used ChatGPT to analyze pictures of the hoses sent with the FFR A/C kit. The #6 and #8 hoses are standard barrier. The #10? Reduced barrier.

All the included fittings were standard barrier. So, the above is what you get when you mismatch



Mildly annoyed, I now have reduced barrier fittings coming in the mail

[burchfieldb]

Looking good Jim, you are making some quick progress. I have not touched mine in a couple of months. I noticed your rollover switch is mounted horizontal, I think thoses want to be vertical to avoid any nuisance tripping.

[JTG]

Regarding the different types of AC hoses, did FFR send the wrong thing or is it just that this system uses both? Just want to make sure I understand when we get to that point.

Thanks,
Jon

[JimStone]

Looking good Jim, you are making some quick progress. I have not touched mine in a couple of months. I noticed your rollover switch is mounted horizontal, I think thoses want to be vertical to avoid any nuisance tripping.



Shoot! I didn't know or think of that. Will definitely fix it. Don't want to be stalling out every time I hit the gas. Thanks!






Regarding the different types of AC hoses, did FFR send the wrong thing or is it just that this system uses both? Just want to make sure I understand when we get to that point.

Thanks,
Jon

They must have put the wrong #10 hose in my kit. All the fittings and other hoses are standard barrier, but the #10 hose they sent was reduced.

[PNWTim]

That's a bummer Jim. I used reduced barrier hose in my last build and it was great. Smaller physically, bends well, etc. But here would be no reason F5 would send a mixed bag so it's most likely a mistake. A reduced barrier hose wouldn't fit in a standard fitting very well, i.e. there would be space between the outside hose wall and the fitting.

[JimStone]

I've been waiting to reveal these custom badges until my engine compartment was mostly put together, which is now (sans a few AC hose connections)

I'm no graphic designer, so thanks goes to ChatGPT. I used SendCutSend for manufacturing, which is an awesome resource with very reasonable prices for low volume orders.

Still deciding where else on the car for badging. I don't want to be obnoxious, so it will be minimal



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221842&d=1763674031


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221840&d=1763674031


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221841&d=1763674031


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221839&d=1763674031

[bishes]

I don't want to be obnoxious, so it will be minimal



Suuure, nothing obnoxious about a 427 LS in a Coupe!

Love the badging, it's a really nice touch! I just used Send Cut Send for the first time for some random brackets just to get an idea of the quality of the parts, I'll definitely be ordering more later on!

[JimStone]

Suuure, nothing obnoxious about a 427 LS in a Coupe!

Love the badging, it's a really nice touch! I just used Send Cut Send for the first time for some random brackets just to get an idea of the quality of the parts, I'll definitely be ordering more later on!


Thanks Dan!

Yeah, I guess the whole resto-moding of a 1960's racecar thing is already over the top.

So might as well go crazy :cool:

[JimStone]

Attempted to bleed the brake and clutch lines using a pressure bleeding setup I concocted. The bleeding went about as well as could be expected, which is it was pretty terrible.

The pressure bleeder did great though. Made it by fitting a tire valve stem into a spare Tilton reservoir cap, a locking tire air chuck on the air hose and an air gauge/dial to control the pressure.



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222095&d=1764095921



The first attempt was with the clutch line. Immediately leaked at two spots. Fortunately, it was just due to me forgetting to tighten two AN fittings on the reservoir lines (all my lines are AN or stainless tube with 37 degree flares). After that, the clutch line bled great and I got a nice, firm clutch pedal.


The rear brakes went great. No leaks at any of my flares.



Then came the front brakes....



Here is how my setup looks:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222097&d=1764096874

Uses a 1/8" NPT to 3AN adapter in the MC output, then into the stainless 37 degree flared line and tube nut.





Here is what brake fluid seeping overnight through Permatex thread sealant looks like

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222096&d=1764095921



The leaking is coming from MC 1/8 NPT threads and it's irreparable.

I'm certain I'm to blame, not Wilwood. I remember many months ago originally tightening the adapter to the back of the MC and thinking "wow, this adapter screwed in a lot further than the other one". I basically hubbed it. I'm thinking that I over-torqued the stainless steel fitting into the soft aluminum MC threads. Not the first time I've broken parts by stupidly over-torquing


So, that MC is in the garbage and another is on its way. Sticking with Wilwood though!!

[460.465USMC]

Oh, man! You're almost there. With the brake line tightening especially, I doubted my internal torque calibration. I'm sure you'll be leak free in no time. Plus, all of your line/connection assembly is flawless. Well done!

[JimStone]

Oh, man! You're almost there. With the brake line tightening especially, I doubted my internal torque calibration. I'm sure you'll be leak free in no time. Plus, all of your line/connection assembly is flawless. Well done!

Thanks Chris!

Yeah, I'm actually really proud that none of my tube flares leaked. Crossing my fingers on yet to be tested fuel, power steering, coolant, and A/C lines :eek:

[PNWTim]

Whenever you're tightening a hard metal into a softer one, stop when you think it's not tight enough, it probably is. With brake lines especially, snug is typically tight enough. If it weeps or drips, an 1/8th of a turn will typically fix it. You'll get it squared away.

[JimStone]

Whenever you're tightening a hard metal into a softer one, stop when you think it's not tight enough, it probably is. With brake lines especially, snug is typically tight enough. If it weeps or drips, an 1/8th of a turn will typically fix it. You'll get it squared away.

I'll probably have to learn the hard way another dozen or so times before it gets thru my skull



On the bright side, I received the new MC and have it back in the pedal box. Will let the thread sealer harden up and try bleeding again tomorrow

[Nigel Allen]

I'll probably have to learn the hard way another dozen or so times before it gets thru my skull



On the bright side, I received the new MC and have it back in the pedal box. Will let the thread sealer harden up and try bleeding again tomorrow

As a good friend of mine says "it's called paying for your education" whenever I stuff up something expensive

[Blitzboy54]

Man, your engine is an absolute thing of beauty! Really well done

[JimStone]

As a good friend of mine says "it's called paying for your education" whenever I stuff up something expensive

Good one Nigel

Working on my Master's degree in the science of breaking things







Man, your engine is an absolute thing of beauty! Really well done

Thank you! I know it's not everyone's cup of tea. Old school guys will hate it. But I wanted this car to be completely unique and my own.

[Skuzzy]

Just to be fair. "Old School guys" is not really accurate. I consider myself to be an "old school" guy, yet look at the electronics I am designing and building for my car.

I think the people who would have mixed feelings about putting the LS in a Coupe are the guys who really want to honor the original Daytona. That covers a pretty wide age group. Then again, the only thing shared between the original 289 and the Coyote is the manufacturer.

I think you have done a nice job.

[JimStone]

Just to be fair. "Old School guys" is not really accurate. I consider myself to be an "old school" guy, yet look at the electronics I am designing and building for my car.

I think the people who would have mixed feelings about putting the LS in a Coupe are the guys who really want to honor the original Daytona. That covers a pretty wide age group. Then again, the only thing shared between the original 289 and the Coyote is the manufacturer.

I think you have done a nice job.





You're right Skuzzy, I should have said "Traditionalists" won't like it. This is far from a faithful reproduction of the original Daytona in many ways

I suspect half the Forum won't click the link to my build thread because the title says "An LS 65' Coupe Build".

But Shelby originally wanted a Chevy engine in his Cobras, yada yada... :D

[Lugnut Mark]

So I’m trying to figure out where to mount my Ron Francis fuse box and the general consensus is to mount it in the drivers foot box like you have done … however I’ve got to say it’s super tight in there and I’m not sure I can fit my big ole hands in there with everything that is supposed to occupy that space …especially with the body on the car …. Any advice or fitment tricks …. Btw I have kinda been sidetracked on build progress since I read about you building your own powder coating oven …. My wife bought me a small Eastwood powder coating kit and man it’s pretty cool being able to powder coating at home ! I would like to powder coat all my floor boards and interior panels but the supplied over is way to small … I been looking into building a propane or electric element powder coating oven any advice on that front as well?

[JimStone]

So I’m trying to figure out where to mount my Ron Francis fuse box and the general consensus is to mount it in the drivers foot box like you have done … however I’ve got to say it’s super tight in there and I’m not sure I can fit my big ole hands in there with everything that is supposed to occupy that space …especially with the body on the car …. Any advice or fitment tricks …. Btw I have kinda been sidetracked on build progress since I read about you building your own powder coating oven …. My wife bought me a small Eastwood powder coating kit and man it’s pretty cool being able to powder coating at home ! I would like to powder coat all my floor boards and interior panels but the supplied over is way to small … I been looking into building a propane or electric element powder coating oven any advice on that front as well?



Hey Mark,

I also was not thrilled about putting the fuse box on that angled frame rail in the driver's footbox. My problem with it was that that location is visible and I thought it was ugly. After thinking a long time about alternative locations, I gave up and mounted it there and instead built an aluminum cover I powder coated to blend in. I'm also going to make a panel for that triangular area in the footbox to hide all those ugly wires.

I could not think of a better location. And the RF harness is made for the fuse box to be there, so moving it elsewhere would mean lengthening almost all the wires.

It is a PITA to get in there to work, but you do have access from above (if you haven't mounted the footbox top panels) and below.




I love my Eastwood powder coat gun. I bought a "better", expensive gun that I learned quickly was garbage and a complete waste of money. The Eastwood has done all my panels (I'm mostly done) and smaller parts.

Regarding the oven, if you are serious about doing your panels then yes you'll need to make a big oven. I followed this guide pretty closely: https://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/09/how-to-build-powder-coating-oven.html?m=1

My recommendation would be to keep it simple. Forget the fan/convection ducting, lights, window,. Don't need those. I built a fan/convection duct and the fan burnt out after a few hours.

Some things to consider.

I probably spent $700 on the oven. And I used cheap aluminum panels from the RV industry to skin it (not recommended. Use steel). I suspect with metal prices now, it will cost at least $1k.

It was a fun project for me, but took me away from the build for a month and a half. Then it takes a lot of time to prep the panels and do the coating.

The sandblasting part is not fun. I do that in a tent to contain all the sandblasting media. It's cramped, uncomfortable, dirty.

Then some of my panels have some imperfections in the powder coat because I'm not a professional.

So, with all that being said. Unless you REALLY REALLY want to coat your panels yourself (or you want the oven for other projects) just have the big panels done professionally.

Get yourself an old kitchen oven on Marketplace for $50. With that size oven, you can coat almost all the other parts yourself (door frames excluded).

[PNWTim]

My two cents on this subject. I spent about $1300 on powder coating for my coupe. I believe my powder coater used a DA on the flat panels and low pressure sandblasting on the smaller bits.

Twenty years ago I built a '67 Mustang and was a powder coating fool. I bought the Eastwood kit and picked up a free oven on the side of the road. Homeowners were remodeling and getting rid of the range. With all that said, I am not sure it's worth it, aside from the convenience. You have to have a sanding and sandblasting area, an oven, and of course, the powder coater. All these items take up precious floor space for me and I made the decision while building my Camaro to sell all of it. Of those components, I only really miss my highly modified sandblasting booth.

[JimStone]

Update on the leaking brake master cylinder:


Replaced the MC and it STILL leaked at the outlet. Turns out that it wasn't the MC at all. The damn 1/8 NPT to 3AN fitting/adapter was faulty.

I got a new one and compared it. The faulty one has slightly smaller diameter NPT threads. That's why it was bottoming out.


So, that means I now have an extra (apparently perfectly fine) Wilwood MC, just in case

I'd like to say Wilwood is faultless in this situation, but the fitting/adaptor was actually a Wilwood product



Anyway, brakes are bled. No leaks, firm pedal. Yay

[burchfieldb]

Glad to here it, nice to have that checked off the list. This activity is still on my to do list.

[460.465USMC]

That's a win, Jim! Who woulda figured the adapter as the culprit? Not me. Leak free brakes! Wahoo!

[JimStone]

Glad to here it, nice to have that checked off the list. This activity is still on my to do list.



That's a win, Jim! Who woulda figured the adapter as the culprit? Not me. Leak free brakes! Wahoo!


Thanks for the encouragement guys!







Don't have anything new to report, at least not anything finished. I've been bouncing around several different projects, including another Rabbit Hole that I'll post about later

Current projects:

- Trying to tidy up the wiring enough that I can try to get a first start in sometime in the next few months
- Courtesy and ambient lighting, including making custom cage-mounted dome light fixtures
- Heat shields for footbox panels directly next to headers (almost done - will show more soon and explain why I made them)
- Upholstering the outer footbox panels so I can finally seal up the foot boxes for the last time




Some pics:


All my dash lights work. Courtesy lights in the footboxes. My turn signals work (Microflex Labs turn signal controller and switch), and flashers. All push buttons work (Billet Automotive buttons). Heater/AC fan works. Windshield wiper motor. Brake and reverse lights. ECU fires up. Don't really know about the T56 reverse lockout module, but it lets me shift into reverse without resistance.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222585&d=1765175874




Same Hurst shifter used by several others. I did have to move the hole in the trans cover rearward 1 inch to center the shifter. Not bad though.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222587&d=1765175874

FYI, for those who don't know, you can choose a free shift ball if you buy a new Tremec transmission. They don't exactly advertise this. I knew about it thanks to one of Paul's build threads. I had to search online for the form to order the ball. It came a few weeks later.





Can we make it into a 3 seater?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222586&d=1765175874

[PNWTim]

Jim - going to go a little off topic here but I too am going down the rabbit hole of upholstery. I have looked at the Sailrite machines as well as others like Juki and Consew. Have you developed any opinions, good bad or otherwise, regarding the machine you picked up?

[JimStone]

Jim - going to go a little off topic here but I too am going down the rabbit hole of upholstery. I have looked at the Sailrite machines as well as others like Juki and Consew. Have you developed any opinions, good bad or otherwise, regarding the machine you picked up?

Hey Tim,

Its been a year since I researched the other machines, so I can't really speak to the Juki/Consew's, but I absolutely love the Sailrite. I have the Sailrite Ultrafeed LS. Everything about the machine and Sailrite is top notch. From the packaging, to the excellent instructions and their YouTube tutorials, to the quality and feel of the machine.

I got the Monster Balance wheel, which is supposed to make it even smoother and easier to sew. I'm not sure it's necessary, but it I guess it makes it so you can sew even slower which is good for a newb like me.

I like that the Ultrafeed is compact. It's not exactly light, but comes with a really nice carrying case.

I haven't sewed since Spring. I've kind of planned to do it as I go, doing panels as I need them instead of all at once. Keeps it from becoming a chore

[burchfieldb]

Jim - going to go a little off topic here but I too am going down the rabbit hole of upholstery. I have looked at the Sailrite machines as well as others like Juki and Consew. Have you developed any opinions, good bad or otherwise, regarding the machine you picked up?

I have a Juki Lu 565 that I purchased off of Facebook. It is an older machine and works really well. We also have a lot of Juki's at our office that are used for development work. I can't speak to the others, but I think the Consew's are similar to the Juki's.

[JimStone]

There is no good reason for why I haven't complete First Start and Go Kart stages by now. I have essentially everything completed for this thing to drive, but I keep finding ways to distract myself.

Speaking of....



Custom reservoir cap emblems. Employed AI to help design them, Send-Cut-Send made them, then powder coated myself

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223067&d=1766123104



I went a little overboard with the power steering fluid emblem... My wife says I'm a bit "Extra"

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223065&d=1766123104


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223064&d=1766123104







Next distraction was making billet courtesy light fixtures out of chunks of aluminum, which are attached to the roll bar.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223056&d=1766122960


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223063&d=1766123005


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223068&d=1766123952


There are so many better and easier ways to make something than drilling and cutting on a bar of aluminum for hours like I did for these lights.

All wires are run inside the roll bar



More updates on other distraction projects soon

[JTG]

Overkill? Probably. But also amazing? Definitely!! Keep your distractions coming, I love it!!

[8secDuster]

Very Cool Jim

[Namrups]

This is what makes our builds unique! No two are the same.

Scott

[Skuzzy]

I can absolutely appreciate the details you are doing. Nice work.

[460.465USMC]

Those are some sweet, custom touches Jim. Wow! Nice work!

[lewma]

Jim

Get that engine started :)

mark

[JimStone]

Thanks guys, glad you like it. Honestly , I was expecting a few cringe responses


On it Mark! Just need to finish my heat shields, fill the fluids, and I'll be ready to fire it up

[PNWTim]

Really nice work Jim. Custom is custom. That's why they call it custom. Keep it up. And get that engine started,

[Lugnut Mark]

Holy moly talk about setting the bar …. Your coupe looks amazing btw it’s all those little details that make it an award winning vehicle …. I love everything that you have created so far ….one question what’s a brother have to do to get a set of those reservoir caps LOL super nice touches

[JTG]

Thanks guys, glad you like it. Honestly , I was expecting a few cringe responses


On it Mark! Just need to finish my heat shields, fill the fluids, and I'll be ready to fire it up

No cringe from me, I completely respect that you're making this your own. Some of it kind of feels like Easter eggs that the big manufacturers hide on their cars. The T-Rex eating the Raptor comes to mind.

Can't wait to see the finished product!

[JimStone]

Holy moly talk about setting the bar …. Your coupe looks amazing btw it’s all those little details that make it an award winning vehicle …. I love everything that you have created so far ….one question what’s a brother have to do to get a set of those reservoir caps LOL super nice touches


Here's a link to the DXF files that you can upload to Send Cut Send. If you need different size, you'll have to use a program like Inkscape to change it.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1GuTbRKRjbo-oyIPD8z2su6lHIZ1szqXS

PM me if you have trouble

[Nigel Allen]

Here's a link to the DXF files that you can upload to Send Cut Send. If you need different size, you'll have to use a program like Inkscape to change it.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1GuTbRKRjbo-oyIPD8z2su6lHIZ1szqXS

PM me if you have trouble

I think I can speak on behalf of many on this forum, we love what you do Jim. Thanks for sharing your creativity.

Cheers,
Nige

[JimStone]

Slowly checking off items on the list of things to do before first start. Often times it's 1 step forward, two steps back. I'm sure others commiserate.


Got a radiator/coolant system pressure testing kit from Vevor. My radiator cap is 16 psi, so I wanted to test up to at least 20 psi. At about 10 psi, I got some drips from two AN fittings in my heater hose circuit which were easily fixed by a little tightening of the fittings.

15 psi- fine.

18 psi - large splash and gush of coolant from the front of the engine.

After freaking out for a few minutes and scrambling to find a bucket and towels, I found a steady stream coming from behind the water pump





https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223637&d=1767652645

The stream you can see coming off the crank pulley is actually originating up higher.

Closer inspection and it seems to be coming from the back cover of the water pump where there appears to be a gap.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223638&d=1767652645



That water pump is not from Blueprint. It came as part of the CVF racing front accessory drive. The accessory drive bracket mounts to the pump.


So off the whole assembly went. Wasn't too bad after detaching everything. Used my electric hoist

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223651&d=1767674816

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223650&d=1767674816


Sure enough, 3 of the 5 screws securing the cover plate were not even finger tight.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223649&d=1767674816

O-ring was perfect, so I just put it back together and torqued everything appropriately.

Will go back in when I receive replacement gaskets (not that those were to blame).


So, lots of work because I didn't check this when installing the first time. I assumed CVF assembled their pump correctly, which was a mistake and lesson learned.

But at least I know what was leaking and am confident in the fix.

Onward!

[PNWTim]

That's a pretty big Yikes! Lots of labor to fix but glad to see it was a "no cost" remedy. If you feel like being a good samaritan, it never hurts to let outfits know their QA/QC might need a little attention.

[JimStone]

Got some packages in the mail yesterday (is there any better feeling than having boxes or crates of parts waiting for you when arriving home from work?)



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223686&d=1767806371



My wife convinced me to get the Formacars electric window kit (that's my story and I'm sticking to it).

I'm working hard to reduce the cabin noise and make this car comfortable to drive, and I think real glass windows will help a lot.

It came impeccably packaged. The parts look top notch.

I am more than slightly intimidated by all the parts and the installation process. And I bought them uncoated so I could powder coat them to match the rest of the car, but man, there are a lot of things to take apart to coat. But that's a project for summer! I got them now so I can get the electrics sorted so I can finish my behind the dash stuff

[JTG]

I had no idea you were headed in this direction, but I'm excited to see how you make out with their window kit!!

[Papa]

I'm 99% ready to place an order for a set myself. They are out of stock right now, but taking back orders.

[PNWTim]

I am surprised you were able to get them. I inquired about 3 months ago and they were out of stock then as well. I bounce back and forth on whether to spend my money on bags and an airpod or power windows. It's a tough decision.

[JimStone]

I am surprised you were able to get them. I inquired about 3 months ago and they were out of stock then as well. I bounce back and forth on whether to spend my money on bags and an airpod or power windows. It's a tough decision.


I first contacted them early November and place an order. It took about two months to get them, but I wasn't in a hurry. I got $200 off because I requested them un-upholstered so I can upholster myself to match the rest of the cabin.



Regarding your decision: money grows on trees, so do them both! :D

[Skuzzy]

I'm 99% ready to place an order for a set myself. They are out of stock right now, but taking back orders.

Same here.

[460.465USMC]

Those will be sweet, Jim! I watched their videos. A very nice upgrade indeed. For some reason I'm not tempted on this one. What's wrong with me? Will enjoy watching them come together.

P.S. I need to have your wife talk to mine! :p

[JimStone]

P.S. I need to have your wife talk to mine! :p


I may be overselling the wife approval thing. The conversation went something like this:


ME: I've been thinking a lot about the Formacars glass electric windows for the Coupe.

WIFE: You mean your car doesn't have windows?

ME: Well, it does, but they're plastic with a little rectangle cutout that slides back and forth

WIFE: [stares at me blankly]. You should get the glass ones


Conversation over

[Higgybulin]

That kind of conversation means the light has never been greener!!! Especially since it was her idea and she told you to do it!!
Higgy

[RJD]

Happy wife, happy life. Way to take one for the team.

[PNWTim]

I may be overselling the wife approval thing. The conversation went something like this:


ME: I've been thinking a lot about the Formacars glass electric windows for the Coupe.

WIFE: You mean your car doesn't have windows?

ME: Well, it does, but they're plastic with a little rectangle cutout that slides back and forth

WIFE: [stares at me blankly]. You should get the glass ones


Conversation over

Less is more my friend, less is more.

[JTG]

I may be overselling the wife approval thing. The conversation went something like this:


ME: I've been thinking a lot about the Formacars glass electric windows for the Coupe.

WIFE: You mean your car doesn't have windows?

ME: Well, it does, but they're plastic with a little rectangle cutout that slides back and forth

WIFE: [stares at me blankly]. You should get the glass ones


Conversation over

Very funny, this actually prompted a conversation with my wife about the same topic. I was initially planning to figure out how to build the windows from scratch, but just got off the phone with Chris at Forma about deleting a few of the parts from the kit and attempting to reengineer a manual version of their windows. We'll see how that works out, but the nice thing about buying the kit is the geometry is already figured out. Now it's a matter of coming up with a mechanism to raise and lower the glass.

My wife values my time and realized how much would be involved in figuring out this part of the build. "Buy the window kit, it's worth it"

[Jim Frahm]

I may be overselling the wife approval thing. The conversation went something like this:


ME: I've been thinking a lot about the Formacars glass electric windows for the Coupe.

WIFE: You mean your car doesn't have windows?

ME: Well, it does, but they're plastic with a little rectangle cutout that slides back and forth

WIFE: [stares at me blankly]. You should get the glass ones


Conversation over

Nice!

Here's my secret when buying something that's a bit on the pricy side. Now this has worked for me for 25 years so feel free to use it at your discretion.

ME: I'm thinking about buying some upgraded windows for the coupe!

WIFE: What's wrong with the stock windows? Are the upgrades expensive?

ME: They're plastic and they don't roll down, only a small vent window. Not sure on the price, I'll check.

ME: I decided to buy the window upgrade. They only cost $1,200. (I'm guessing, I don't actually know the price)

Now, here's the secret; I didn't actually buy them,,, I'm waiting to gauge my wife's reaction!

WIFE: Reaction A. That's not bad, sounds reasonable. ME: Order immediately!

WIFE: Reaction B. Wow, that sounds expensive. ME: Just kidding, I didn't order them. They did seem a bit high priced.

Remember guys, keep this to yourselves. We are in this together.....

[JimStone]

My wife values my time and realized how much would be involved in figuring out this part of the build. "Buy the window kit, it's worth it"

Just don't mention the price, am I right? The sticker shock on those things took awhile to wear off. But now that I see the parts in person, I understand why it costs so much.










Nice!

Here's my secret when buying something that's a bit on the pricy side. Now this has worked for me for 25 years so feel free to use it at your discretion.

ME: I'm thinking about buying some upgraded windows for the coupe!

WIFE: What's wrong with the stock windows? Are the upgrades expensive?

ME: They're plastic and they don't roll down, only a small vent window. Not sure on the price, I'll check.

ME: I decided to buy the window upgrade. They only cost $1,200. (I'm guessing, I don't actually know the price)

Now, here's the secret; I didn't actually buy them,,, I'm waiting to gauge my wife's reaction!

WIFE: Reaction A. That's not bad, sounds reasonable. ME: Order immediately!

WIFE: Reaction B. Wow, that sounds expensive. ME: Just kidding, I didn't order them. They did seem a bit high priced.

Remember guys, keep this to yourselves. We are in this together.....


Nice! I'll have to try that one next time

[JimStone]

It's a good thing I'm building a car instead of a boat, because I've had so many leaks lately that this thing would have sunk by now.


The massive coolant leak from the poorly assembled water pump has been fixed. I was able to successfully pressure test the system to 20 psi (4 psi over what my radiator cap is rated).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223973&d=1768529299





Next, I tried bleeding the power steering system but could not get the air out. I realized I had a small leak at one of the steel fittings on the high pressure hose. I did make that hose, but I don't think it was my fault because it was leaking from one of the fitting's tube/body and not from the hose end part that I assembled. I still had the hose from the FFR power steering kit. It was about a foot too long but I made it work. Put some basalt fiber sleeve over it to match some of my other hoses

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223969&d=1768529299

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223977&d=1768529315



The next leak is completely my fault, and I'm still sick to my stomach over. I did what I've been warned a million times not to. I was tightening down the nut on the positive battery lead when my wrench grazed a nearby stainless brake line (and yes, I stupidly had the neg cable already hooked up). There was a spark and immediate deluge of brake fluid everywhere.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223972&d=1768529299

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223975&d=1768529315


I'm going to try to repair it in place without taking the whole line out. But I honestly don't even want to think about it right now. Very disappointing







There has been some good news though.

I finished my heat shields made of dimpled aluminum stretched over 0.09 inch aluminum sheet, thern I cerakoted them with high temp V-series, and installed with spacers to give a 3/8 inch air pocket behind.

I also Cerakoted the headers and side pipes

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223974&d=1768529315

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223970&d=1768529299

I decided the heat shields were necessary after learning more about aluminum panel heat/sound insulation, and realizing I had probably made a mistake with my footbox linings. I had lined them with foil covered butyl as the first layer against the panel. Then closed cell foam, mass loaded vinyl, another thin foam, then vinyl upholstery.

Well, I learned butyl has a relatively low melting point (~250 F) but will start to droop at even lower temp, around 150 F. Thus the heat shields. Hopefully they work.






[Continued next post]

[JimStone]

[Continued]




I filled the engine with oil (no leaks!) and made some good priming, no-spark pulls with the starter. It was great to see oil pressure on the gauge.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223976&d=1768529315




The spark plug wires on the LS nearly touch the headers, so I wanted heat shield sleeves. But I wasn't happy with what I found online. I ordered some pre-made ones on amazon but was disappointed by how stiff they were and didn't like the look.

I made my own by first putting a silicone coated fiberglass sleeve over the wire, then covering that in basalt fiber sleeving. It's much more flexible and looks good


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223978&d=1768529315


I'm darn close to starting this engine (finally!)

I think I only need to get the front wiring harness hooked back up (for the fan), put the side pipes on, do the initial setup on the Terminator X Max, and get some gas.

First start on MLK Day???

[PNWTim]

Jim - your spark plug covers look really nice and I am sure they will work but keep an eye on the boots. In the future, if needed, you can also purchase hi temp spark plug wires with ceramic boots. I have these on my LS and they work great.

https://www.holley.com/products/ignition/spark_plug_wires/accel_ceramic_boot_spark_plug_wires/

[JimStone]

Jim - your spark plug covers look really nice and I am sure they will work but keep an eye on the boots. In the future, if needed, you can also purchase hi temp spark plug wires with ceramic boots. I have these on my LS and they work great.

https://www.holley.com/products/ignition/spark_plug_wires/accel_ceramic_boot_spark_plug_wires/


Thanks Tim. I wasn't aware of those type of wires/boots. Mine are what was shipped from Blueprint, which I'm sure are "just okay" quality

[JTG]

That's quite the update Jim! I'm impressed with your persistence in working through all these detours and details. We'll be certain to share our leaks when we have them :rolleyes:

[460.465USMC]

Those backsteps can feel defeating. Ask me how I know. But first start will be all the sweeter as you solve them one by one. Keep up the great work, Jim! We're cheering for you, and looking forward to hearing that beast wake up and rumble!

[JimStone]

Thanks for the encouragement on the leaks, guys


So, no First Start on MLK day. New plan is for this Saturday






Put some fuel in the tank and ran the fuel pump. Had a leak at the fuel regulator where I had a stainless hard-line connection to the firewall bulkhead fitting. I didn't feel like remaking the hard-line, so quickly put together a PTFE AN fuel line with leftover parts


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224497&d=1768965971



Leak fixed, I set the regulator to 58 psi and it held pressure fine.

I used the 87+ Ford fuel tank sender setting on the Speedhut gauge, which was the best match to my pre-installation measured Ohms of 12-142. I put 5 gal of gas in and it's showing only just past 1/8 tank, so I may need to adjust that later

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224498&d=1768965971




Put the side pipes on and installed the hangers. I had Cerakoted them earlier. Turned out okay, but I had some scuffs around the collector flanges, so I may try to touch that up with an airbrush later.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224499&d=1768966281



Installed a fuel pump push bottom switch on the trans tunnel cover. Was getting tired of the fuel pump running when testing other electrics and needing to take in/out the fuse.

Also did the basic initial settings for the Terminator X on the handheld device.. I've been learning a lot from ChatGPT about some additional settings to input before First Start to get a better idle, based on my cam specs. Need to hook up a laptop for that, and download the Holley software

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224496&d=1768965971




You can also see where I made a hole in the trans cover panel for a cup holder. I can't leave anything well enough alone, so I put blue LEDs around the bottom

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224495&d=1768965971



That's it for now. Next update: hopefully after a successful fire up of this engine

[PNWTim]

Looks to me like you are getting pretty close. Just a couple of comments. First, I think you need at least three or four more wires behind your dash to even out the look :cool:. Second, I like the additional lighting anywhere you can put it. It's one of the great things about LEDs in my opinion.

On a side note, I am surprised your fuel pump was on continuous run. I don't have any familiarity with the Terminator X but I know with the GM PCM it's similar to the Coyote setup. It primes the fuel system for 1-2 seconds and shuts off unless the engine starts. Either way, looking forward to the video this weekend. Good luck!

[lewma]

Get that thing started!!!

[JimStone]

[
Looks to me like you are getting pretty close. Just a couple of comments. First, I think you need at least three or four more wires behind your dash to even out the look :cool:. Second, I like the additional lighting anywhere you can put it. It's one of the great things about LEDs in my opinion.

On a side note, I am surprised your fuel pump was on continuous run. I don't have any familiarity with the Terminator X but I know with the GM PCM it's similar to the Coyote setup. It primes the fuel system for 1-2 seconds and shuts off unless the engine starts. Either way, looking forward to the video this weekend. Good luck!


You're not suppose to look at the wires! So embarrassing. I need to censor out that rats nest in future posts

You're right about the Terminator X being able to control the fuel pump. I had already wired the pump according to the FFR manual, so when I installed the Terminator X a year later I naively thought "what's the difference?" Now I know.

I could have switched it over, but I like the button now. More things to press in the ignition sequence, like a racecar, or a fighter jet. :cool:









Get that thing started!!!



On it Mark!!

[jemorgan3]

does the terminator x not need a fuel pump speed controller? Im planning on running a Aeromotive 525lph in tank pump with an Aeromotive fuel pump speed controller to modulate the pump. would be nice if the terminator x ecu does that for me!

[JimStone]

does the terminator x not need a fuel pump speed controller? Im planning on running a Aeromotive 525lph in tank pump with an Aeromotive fuel pump speed controller to modulate the pump. would be nice if the terminator x ecu does that for me!


Whoa, what are planning that needs that big of fuel pump?

So, your question about fuel pump modulation opened a can of worms. I had never read in the forum of someone using a fuel pump speed controller. However, most builds on here have smaller pumps than you. I did some research and there does seem to be an ability for the Terminator X to act like a PWM, but the discussion went way over my head.

For my size fuel pump (340lph), it doesn't seem needed.




And Tim,

After reading more, I am going to switch over to the Terminator X handling the on/off of the Fuel pump, like you suggested. It's a safety thing. If the car crashes, the way I have it the fuel would keep pumping, perhaps spraying from broken lines onto hot headers and pipes.

My push button fuel pump switch is simply in the ground trigger loop for the relay. So I'll just hook up the Terminator X green wire to my push button and all will be well

[jemorgan3]

My previous fun car was a 5th gen ZL1 Camaro, 18lbs of boost from the OEM LSA blower... that blower can go from a vacuum to 18lbs at very low rpm with a high load, so having enough fuel instantly is pretty crucial. From owning that car, I have a paranoia about fuel pressure and supply. With injectors, you absolutely want something that isnt to small, but also not oversized either. With a pump, however... There isnt a reason not to go a bit overboard with it!

From the research ive done, the terminator system can command a pump on/off, but cannot modulate its duty cycle. Running a fuel pump at its maximum capacity 100%W of the time will work, but will also reduce its lifespan. A true PWM fuel controller will match the duty cycle of the pump with the demand. Just makes it a more efficient system. I would argue that any aftermarket fuel pump will benefit from a fuel controller. will it run without one, yes. Will if fail earlier, also yes.

To answer your question, my coupe is getting a forged LS3 based 416 with a focus on RPM. But when the 525lph pump is only $100 more than the 340lph, why not buy the insurance (or enable the addition of an LT4 blower later).

[JimStone]

My previous fun car was a 5th gen ZL1 Camaro, 18lbs of boost from the OEM LSA blower... that blower can go from a vacuum to 18lbs at very low rpm with a high load, so having enough fuel instantly is pretty crucial. From owning that car, I have a paranoia about fuel pressure and supply. With injectors, you absolutely want something that isnt to small, but also not oversized either. With a pump, however... There isnt a reason not to go a bit overboard with it!

From the research ive done, the terminator system can command a pump on/off, but cannot modulate its duty cycle. Running a fuel pump at its maximum capacity 100%W of the time will work, but will also reduce its lifespan. A true PWM fuel controller will match the duty cycle of the pump with the demand. Just makes it a more efficient system. I would argue that any aftermarket fuel pump will benefit from a fuel controller. will it run without one, yes. Will if fail earlier, also yes.

To answer your question, my coupe is getting a forged LS3 based 416 with a focus on RPM. But when the 525lph pump is only $100 more than the 340lph, why not buy the insurance (or enable the addition of an LT4 blower later).



The LSAs in those ZL1's are quite the engine. 59 lb injectors with boost, so yeah, need a lot of fuel. I think you'll be perfectly happy with a NA LS3 416 in a car nearly half the weight!


This is where I got the idea you could use the Terminator X for fuel pump modulation: https://www.corral.net/threads/how-to-pwm-walbro-450lph-fuel-pump-with-or-without-a-bap-with-a-terminator-x.2505786/

But honestly, my eyes glazed over halfway through reading



Good luck your build!

[PNWTim]

Whoa, what are planning that needs that big of fuel pump?

So, your question about fuel pump modulation opened a can of worms. I had never read in the forum of someone using a fuel pump speed controller. However, most builds on here have smaller pumps than you. I did some research and there does seem to be an ability for the Terminator X to act like a PWM, but the discussion went way over my head.

For my size fuel pump (340lph), it doesn't seem needed.




And Tim,

After reading more, I am going to switch over to the Terminator X handling the on/off of the Fuel pump, like you suggested. It's a safety thing. If the car crashes, the way I have it the fuel would keep pumping, perhaps spraying from broken lines onto hot headers and pipes.

My push button fuel pump switch is simply in the ground trigger loop for the relay. So I'll just hook up the Terminator X green wire to my push button and all will be well

Probably wise Jim. Your rollover module should also manage that situation if wired correctly but double safe is good. For what it's worth, the Terminator X probably has built in PWM control for your fuel pump if your pump is capable of supporting it. It's not particularly necessary but still a nice feature.

[JimStone]

No first start yet. I've been all ready to go for a week, but finding the right time when my family is all together and not rushing to/from sports games/practices or school events has been a challenge lately.



In the meantime, I've been messing around with some other things.


I posted this in the recent thread about Coupe LED taillights, but I'll post it here for posterity:




I've long been searching for LED halo taillights for the back of the coupe. I love that look and find the taillights sent with the kit to be very mediocre, at best.

GRP makes some really nice looking ones that have been used successfully by a few folks on this board. https://www.gregsraceparts.com/products/grp-v4-tail-lights-for-evora-s-400-410-430-gt-exige-380-430-elise-cup-sprint-3-eleven

My beef with the GRP halos are the large size that takes over the back of the car. Those are 4.75" diameter. I found some that are about an inch smaller, which doesn't sound like much but actually is 38% less surface area.

They are also $500 less than the GRPs



I found them at CarbonMiata.com, a retailer focused on custom parts for the Miata community.

https://www.carbonmiata.com/shop/halo-led-dual-tail-lights-v2-for-miata-nb-1105#attr=5147


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225032&d=1770015771





I was skeptical of the quality at $70 apiece, but they seem to be legit. Supposedly hand made, but they don't look or feel DIY


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225029&d=1770015722


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225031&d=1770015771


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225035&d=1770015771


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225034&d=1770015771


They have integral lights in the middle that can be either back-up or turn signals.

The white LEDs that came with them were underwhelming, so I got replacements that are much brighter (not as noticeable in pics as in person). https://www.amazon.com/LASFIT-Upgraded-Brighter-Projector-Replacement/dp/B0CNX1PNFJ?pd_rd_w=GPzbL&content-id=amzn1.sym.148d7a8e-725d-42f4-bb41-3dffb915d3a9&pf_rd_p=148d7a8e-725d-42f4-bb41-3dffb915d3a9&pf_rd_r=8ADV2YTB87HSZHT1T76D&pd_rd_wg=bxjp6&pd_rd_r=4b3f8efa-a352-4e93-95be-f470ddae7e2e&pd_rd_i=B0CNX1PNFJ&psc=1&ref_=pd_basp_m_rpt_ba_s_2_sc


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225072&d=1770096387


There is also a function to use the actual ring LED as the turn signal, which I'm leaning towards

The halos are dual brightness (brake and driving lights). Both are very bright. The brakes are almost blindingly bright (a good thing). The driving lights are maybe a tad too bright, so I've ordered some resistors to see if I can take them down a little. Not a deal breaker if that doesn't work.

They come with LED drivers/wiring harnesses



I am going to ghost the center lens so it matches my blacked out theme

They have mounting studs so I'll figure out some way to mount them. Will need to be recessed slightly into th body. I don't know if I'll do the whole fiberglass "tub" thing that others have done. Probably will just cut a close fitting hole and make a thin bezel on Send-Cut-Send or my 3D printer.


You might tell I'm pretty excited about these. I think they're exactly what I was looking for.

[bishes]

I've been waiting for this post since you first announced that you'd ordered them, they look great! Can you share some details on why it took 3 months for them to arrive?

[JimStone]

I've been waiting for this post since you first announced that you'd ordered them, they look great! Can you share some details on why it took 3 months for them to arrive?

Dan,

I think I did get unlucky with the shipping and don't think 3 months is typical.

I expected it to take a while since they're "hand made" and coming from China. The first shipment took about 6 weeks, but inexplicably only contained the drivers/wiring harnesses. My contact at CarbonMiata, Marc (who manages the info@carbonmiata.com account) , was very apologetic and got another shipment going. I was following the tracking and noticed the 2nd package got held up at a Chinese package sorting facility for over a week. Marc was somehow able to get that sorted after I let him know.

The reviews from CarbonMiata are generally good and they do business globally. Marc was great about answering questions and sent me additional photos before I bought. I have a 24 email exchange with him.

I wouldn't let my experience scare you away. Just know it will take about 6 weeks to get them.

[bishes]

Thanks for the info, that's very helpful!

[Skuzzy]

Nice! It's always fun to read about others approach to making their car their own.

[jemorgan3]

Very cool taillights!

Was wondering how much clearance you gained with the LS2/C6 oil pan? It seems the best choice for ground clearance, but not so much for oil capacity.. Melling suggests at a minimum, a 6 quart pan when using the HV/HP pump, which my engine builder highly recommended for my bearing/ring tolerance. Is the LS2 pan above the frame? How much?

Thanks!!

[JimStone]

Very cool taillights!

Was wondering how much clearance you gained with the LS2/C6 oil pan? It seems the best choice for ground clearance, but not so much for oil capacity.. Melling suggests at a minimum, a 6 quart pan when using the HV/HP pump, which my engine builder highly recommended for my bearing/ring tolerance. Is the LS2 pan above the frame? How much?

Thanks!!


With the C6 pan, it is exactly flush with the bottom of the frame. My lowest point is the bell housing lip, which is about 1/2 inch below.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225109&d=1770155538


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225108&d=1770155538




Improved Racing has a nice comparison page:

https://www.improvedracing.com/gm-ls-oil-pan-dimensions?srsltid=AfmBOoqk4onc0cbZcn-cq6Y_ghJSP1DmAQqmeoikJoJiiv6XZFwRuKxJ




Blueprint sends the engine with a 4th gen F-body pan

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225110&d=1770156086

You can see it's 3/4" deeper than the C6






There may be something out there that has more oil capacity and still 4.85 in deep, but I couldn't find one that also would clear the rods on a stroked LS.


One alternative to a short pan would be to add spacers to the motor mounts to lift the engine up. I didn't want to mess with that

[460.465USMC]

Thumbs up on the tail lights, Jim. Saweeeet!

[JimStone]

Thumbs up on the tail lights, Jim. Saweeeet!


Thanks Chris!





One more thing regarding the taillights, then I'll put them away until body fitment time:

I was messing around with them today and figured out a way to easily make the center light recessed into the halo. That's something I really liked about the GRP Evora lights.




The center light can be detached by taking out the steel "pinch" triangle that locks (sorta) the center housing in place. Then it's just a press fit


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225125&d=1770182217


Then rotate the triangular base to the next notch and use the pre-existing halo lens mounts, with longer screws, to secure the center housing. This keeps it perfectly centered


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225124&d=1770182217


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225123&d=1770182217



It's only maybe 1/2 inch, but I think will look great with a smoked center lens


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225122&d=1770182217

[Skuzzy]

The recess does look better. Nice work.

[Papa]

I like the look of those!

[PNWTim]

I think it's the little details that really add up. Those are going to look great.

[JimStone]

Finally got around to doing the deed:





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_VienRmGVg[/url]



A happy event. It almost didn't happen though. At first we got violent backfiring and roughness from the right cylinder bank. Eventually, we figured out the right coil harness was reversed. So it was basically trying to ignite on the exhaust stroke.

How did that happen? No idea. Clearly user error when reassembling the engine.

Thanks to my Dad and brother-in-law for helping me figure it out.

Thanks to my son for being standby firefighter. Fortunately, not needed.



Lewma will be proud - got that engine started!

[Higgybulin]

Great job man!! I was thinking the video was going to show the violent backfiring! You probably didnt want to see that again though!!
Congrats!!!!
Higgy

[Lugnut Mark]

Well all right congratulations….. now ……DO A BURNOUT …. sorry Jim I couldn’t resist….. btw the taillights look awesome !

[Papa]

Congratulations on the huge milestone!

[8secDuster]

Congratulations Jim !

[lewma]

Congrats Jim!!

[JTG]

Congrats Jim, that has to feel so good!!

[PNWTim]

Purrs like a kitten Jim. A little more throttle and the lion will appear. That's a great moment and you're fortunate to have the family in attendance.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Congratulations Jim! Big milestone :cool:

Is that you in the seat? Methinks your noggin is gonna' bump the roof!

Jeff

[cc2Arider]

Awesome moment Jim...and I agree, it is good to have your Family there to appreciate your milestone :)

Craig C

[460.465USMC]

Wahoo! Sounds mean! Congrats! I don't recall, are those Gas-N pipes?

[JimStone]

Thank you everyone for the comments!





Congratulations Jim! Big milestone :cool:

Is that you in the seat? Methinks your noggin is gonna' bump the roof!

Jeff

I fit in there when I test mounting the seats with the body on over a year ago... Maybe I grew? Might need to incorporate a Gurney Bubble



Wahoo! Sounds mean! Congrats! I don't recall, are those Gas-N pipes?


Those are FFR pipes that I Cerakoted

[AaronR]

Wow, your engine sounds like it's running great. That's a beautiful purr! I think we have the same engine. I also got the BP 427 LS engine for mine. Good to know I will need the C6 oil pan. I'll just go ahead and buy that now which will make the 3rd oil pan I bought for this... ha. What windage tray and pickup tube did you use for yours? Were you able to reuse from the pan supplied by FFR?

I'll be using an 8HP75 transmission with mine instead of the T56. I just picked that up last week. Hopefully I won't have any clearance issues with the bellhousing since it's rather large on the Ram version I have (it's from a 2024 Ram 1500 2wd).

I'm really enjoying seeing your progress and hopefully learning from some of the hard-earned experience you're sharing. Thanks!

[JimStone]

Wow, your engine sounds like it's running great. That's a beautiful purr! I think we have the same engine. I also got the BP 427 LS engine for mine. Good to know I will need the C6 oil pan. I'll just go ahead and buy that now which will make the 3rd oil pan I bought for this... ha. What windage tray and pickup tube did you use for yours? Were you able to reuse from the pan supplied by FFR?

I'll be using an 8HP75 transmission with mine instead of the T56. I just picked that up last week. Hopefully I won't have any clearance issues with the bellhousing since it's rather large on the Ram version I have (it's from a 2024 Ram 1500 2wd).

I'm really enjoying seeing your progress and hopefully learning from some of the hard-earned experience you're sharing. Thanks!



Thanks Aaron

I have work to do fine-tuning the idle through the Terminator X . The big cam wants a bit higher idle RPM and maybe advance the timing a little. But I'm just getting started, running leak down tests and longer heat cycles. It is a sweet engine. I am a complete novice when it comes to tuning, so it's will be a learning process. I ultimately will probably get a professional tune once it's on the road.

The oil pickup tube for the C6 pan is this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ADO-12624497
Noticed the price went up by nearly 50% since I bought mine a year ago

The windage tray that comes with the Blueprint 427 works for the C6 pan, so nothing needed there.

I gave the pan that came with the Blueprint engine to a local kid who is rebuilding an LS for his Camaro., along with some other spare parts I had.

I don't see how one could use that F-body pan on a Coupe. Don't know about the Roadster, but MKV is essentially same frame. Just too deep. Would be the lowest point on the car, so inevitably would get sheered off on a speed bump or road debris

Good luck with your build!

[460.465USMC]

I fit in there when I test mounting the seats with the body on over a year ago... Maybe I grew? Might need to incorporate a Gurney Bubble

If I recall, you're using the Braum seat base/sliders, correct? By about how much does that raise the seat? If memory serves, I think I'm very close to the same height as you (6' 1"), and I'm planning to buy the Braum seats as well. I hit my forehead against the wall enough on this build, so no need for me to bounce my head off the roof. :p

[JimStone]

If I recall, you're using the Braum seat base/sliders, correct? By about how much does that raise the seat? If memory serves, I think I'm very close to the same height as you (6' 1"), and I'm planning to buy the Braum seats as well. I hit my forehead against the wall enough on this build, so no need for me to bounce my head off the roof. :p


Chris,

The seat base/mounts I used add 1 1/2" of height. I felt that was comfortable. Lower and I couldn't see over the dash board.

I think the video is deceiving. Yes,the top of my head is about even with the top of the lateral roll bars, but those are 1 1/2" lower than the front/back roll bars (which are in themselves about an inch lower than the ceiling of the coupe body. I had plenty of head room when I mocked this up with the body on early in the build. I think even with a helmet I'd be fine.

[Power Surge]

Congrats on the start up! This is such a wild build, I love seeing the progress.

[AaronR]

The seat base/mounts I used add 1 1/2" of height. I felt that was comfortable. Lower and I couldn't see over the dash board.

What you said here has been sticking with me for the last 24-ish hours. I haven't sat in a coupe yet. I'm working through different iterations of what I would like my dash to look like. Long story short, I want cameras for side mirrors and I've been working on where to place the monitors. How much am I going to hate and/or not be able to see over the dash if I tried to put these monitors and gauges on the top of the dash like this? I'm 5'10" if that matters at all.


225462
225463

[JimStone]

What you said here has been sticking with me for the last 24-ish hours. I haven't sat in a coupe yet. I'm working through different iterations of what I would like my dash to look like. Long story short, I want cameras for side mirrors and I've been working on where to place the monitors. How much am I going to hate and/or not be able to see over the dash if I tried to put these monitors and gauges on the top of the dash like this? I'm 5'10" if that matters at all.


225462
225463


Hey Aaron, cool ideas and renderings.

I don't want to say for sure it won't work, but I do think you'll have trouble seeing over the video screen and gauges. The coupe has a long nose and relatively tight viewing angle out the windscreen.

Of course, a lot depends on how tall those screens and gauges will be, and how high you mount your seats.

At 6'2", my seat is also mounted as far back as possible, so that may also affect things.

You may want to think about how to lower the screens/gauges on the dash, which will create some engineering challenges, but would be doable.

[Namrups]

I would do a cardboard mockup before buying anything. I'm 5' 8". I have Corbeau seats on sliders which gets me a good 4" off the floor plate. Looking over your rendered screens I believe would be a challenge.

Scott

[JTG]

What you said here has been sticking with me for the last 24-ish hours. I haven't sat in a coupe yet. I'm working through different iterations of what I would like my dash to look like. Long story short, I want cameras for side mirrors and I've been working on where to place the monitors. How much am I going to hate and/or not be able to see over the dash if I tried to put these monitors and gauges on the top of the dash like this? I'm 5'10" if that matters at all.


We sat in the carbon fiber coupe they had at the open house, which has a dash with a curved top that matches the height of the steering wheel.
Just my 2 cents but I wouldn't make it any higher than that. I'll second what Scott said, and suggest making a cardboard mockup.

[Jeff Kleiner]

We sat in the carbon fiber coupe they had at the open house, which has a dash with a curved top that matches the height of the steering wheel.
Just my 2 cents but I wouldn't make it any higher than that. I'll second what Scott said, and suggest making a cardboard mockup.

The CF Coupe has the seats flat on the floor so take that into consideration. If you use sliders, raise or tilt the seat things will change.

Jeff

[burchfieldb]

What you said here has been sticking with me for the last 24-ish hours. I haven't sat in a coupe yet. I'm working through different iterations of what I would like my dash to look like. Long story short, I want cameras for side mirrors and I've been working on where to place the monitors. How much am I going to hate and/or not be able to see over the dash if I tried to put these monitors and gauges on the top of the dash like this? I'm 5'10" if that matters at all.


225462
225463

Definitely do a mockup. I did a custom dash on mine with a curved top and it sits at 29 inches from the floor. I wouldn't want it any higher than that. Here is a picture or it and one of my view point sitting in my seat that is all the way back and mounted to the floor with no rails. I am 6 ft tall and 190 lbs.

225572

225573

[JimStone]

It's been a bit since my last update.

Have been busy with work, kid's basketball, flag football, swimming, robotics, coaching baseball. I don't remember winter being nearly so busy when I was a kid.

But I have been making some progress. Mostly on random projects.




I received the FormaCars electric windows kit a few months ago. At first blush, all the parts in the crate and boxes looked overwhelming, but after reading through the instructions a few times and watching TTimmy's YouTube videos, I feel better.

I'm still months away from fitting the doors, but I did want to get the wiring completed. It mostly was straightforward, but then I decided to complicate things.

I didn't like the plastic window switches that came with the kit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227026&d=1773968034



I wanted switches to match my other Billet Automotive Buttons. I got two pairs of buttons and make a mount plate. It will go on the trans tunnel so both driver and passenger can reach.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227022&d=1773967663


Getting those buttons to actually control the window motors turned out to be more challenging.

The doors have computer modules in them that control the window motors

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227025&d=1773968034


The signal from the window switch to the computer is not a simple on/off signal. It took some experimentation to determine that it's specific voltages the computer reads.

5.0 V = neutral/resting voltage
0.4 V = Auto-open
1.2 V = Open
2.4 V = Close
3.4 V = Auto-close

The FormaCars switch modulates the voltage returning to the door computer depending on whether you push or pull up/down and how hard you push/pull.

In order to replicate these voltages with my buttons, I needed to use specific resistors. I found that a 2.2k ohm resistor was needed for a up/close signal and 330 ohm for a down/open signal.

There was no way for me to replicate the auto-open and auto-close function, but I'm ok with that.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227021&d=1773967663





In other news,

Yesterday, a fuel leak sprung from an AN to NPT fitting at the fuel filter.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227045&d=1774024482


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227046&d=1774024482

It's leaking through the PTFE sealant at the NPT fitting. A new fitting is coming. Should be an easy fix. I'm glad it happened now

Then I'll get back idle tuning on the Terminator X






I'll be posting more about some other random projects I've been working on soon.

[Skuzzy]

What type of teflon sealant did you use?

[JimStone]

What type of teflon sealant did you use?

Uh oh, now you have me nervous.

I have Permatex 80633 Thread Sealant with PTFE

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227035&d=1774011883

[Skuzzy]

Well,...that particular sealant works real well with diesel fuel and hydraulic systems, but not so much for blended fuel. Permatex has a better solution for blended fuel fittings. Their "High Performance Thread Sealant" is what I use for AN fittings carrying fuel. Never had a leak with it, regardless of the pressure.

My brother and I worked in oil fields for a time and learned a lot about various sealants.

By the way, teflon is not the problem with 99% of the applications. It is the binder the teflon is in which is usually the problem.

[JimStone]

Well,...that particular sealant works real well with diesel fuel and hydraulic systems, but not so much for blended fuel. Permatex has a better solution for blended fuel fittings. Their "High Performance Thread Sealant" is what I use for AN fittings carrying fuel. Never had a leak with it, regardless of the pressure.

My brother and I worked in oil fields for a time and learned a lot about various sealants.

By the way, teflon is not the problem with 99% of the applications. It is the binder the teflon is in which is usually the problem.





Well sh*t


Thanks Skuzzy, I'll get the High Performance version.

Now I'm thinking of all my other fuel line connections I used that on... fortunately, I think most are actually ORB type fittings, so didn't use the sealant.


Factory Five Forum Brain Trust to rescue again!

[Skuzzy]

Don't panic. You may never have an issue with the sealant you used. Quite frankly, AN fittings should not need any sealant if they are decent quality and properly torqued. I, usually, put a touch of non-detergent oil on the contact surfaces (male and female side) to insure it will not gall.

[JimStone]

Don't panic. You may never have an issue with the sealant you used. Quite frankly, AN fittings should not need any sealant if they are decent quality and properly torqued. I, usually, put a touch of non-detergent oil on the contact surfaces (male and female side) to insure it will not gall.

Thanks Skuzzy

The leak is actually coming from a 3/8" NPT connection at the fuel filter. It's a 3/8" NPT to male 6AN fitting, but I only put the sealant on the NPT side

I did some more research and the original Permatex sealant I used is only gasoline "resistant".

The description on the Permatex website says "Seals and resists pressure in air, oil, diesel fuel and hydraulic systems". No gasoline, like you said


Live and learn

[Skuzzy]

You can also use yellow teflon tape on those NPT threads. The yellow teflon tape is rated to handled blended fuel. Silver/gray teflon tape is okay as well. White teflon tape should never be used on any automotive thread which carries anything other than water.

I figured you were using the sealant on the attachment thread and not the AN side. I just wanted to clarify what I had said earlier about where to use the sealant. I may have nerfed that as well. Sometimes my brain outruns my ability to type.

[JimStone]

Fuel leak fixed.

I used the proper sealant this time (Thanks Skuzzy). Says right on there it's for NPT fittings and confirmed it is for gasoline

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227537&d=1774893951


I actually found that the fuel filter was leaking from both NPT fittings, so that original Permatex thread sealant definitely was to blame. Thankfully, those are the only two NPT fittings on my fuel system.

All good now

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227538&d=1774893951






Btw, it's incredible the quantity of different sealants, lubricants, etc that one acquires while building a car. I'm sure there are several more that I've used that aren't in this photo

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227536&d=1774893951






Some random updates:

Powder coated my Microflex Labs turn signal to match my theme.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227539&d=1774893951


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227540&d=1774893951


Thanks to Microflex Lab's Kevin Cessac for pointing out to me there is a magnet that needs to be oriented correctly for the signal to work. I had reassembled it incorrectly




My cupholder got even more tricked out. Added my Project Demios logo, made by Send-Cut-Send out of aluminum and powder coated gold, then covered with clear epoxy for protection

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227542&d=1774893965


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227543&d=1774893965




Less frivolous update:

My engine has been overheating after idling for about 5-6 minutes. The thermostat isn't opening. So... drained the coolant (2nd time so far) and have a replacement thermostat arriving this afternoon. Fingers crossed that fixes it

[PNWTim]

Jim - LS engines are kind of notorious for air pockets in them, particularly in the rear of the heads. I would suggest you test your thermostat in some hot water on your stove and see if it was opening in the 185 to 190ish area. If so, depending on what you have available, either use a coolant filling system/tool or you can raise the front of your coupe so the radiator or fill tank is higher than the engine. Fill your system and if possible, once coolant is flowing through the return hose, massage the hose (full disclosure, forearm workout) to force any air out of the system. Let it run like this for a bit and the air pockets should work their way out of the fill tank.

[JimStone]

Jim - LS engines are kind of notorious for air pockets in them, particularly in the rear of the heads. I would suggest you test your thermostat in some hot water on your stove and see if it was opening in the 185 to 190ish area. If so, depending on what you have available, either use a coolant filling system/tool or you can raise the front of your coupe so the radiator or fill tank is higher than the engine. Fill your system and if possible, once coolant is flowing through the return hose, massage the hose (full disclosure, forearm workout) to force any air out of the system. Let it run like this for a bit and the air pockets should work their way out of the fill tank.




Thanks Tim

I'll test the thermos like you said.




I do have a concern that I may have the wrong thermostat and it may be preventing proper flow.

I'm using this 180 degree thermostat


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227545&d=1774897207




I thought having a slightly lower temp thermostat would be appropriate given the bigger cube version of the engine (me trying to out-think GM engineers. :rolleyes: )

Now I wonder if it's even the right size and is blocking something.

I'm going to use the OEM thermostat this time







Some of the symptoms:

The upper radiator hose gets warm, but the lower stays cool.

I am getting circulation through the Surge tank and heater hoses




There are two coolant sensors, and they are measuring widely different temps:

1) Passenger rear cylinder head sensor shows rising temps consistently until I shut it down around 225 ( Used for the Terminator X)

2) Driver's front sensor never gets above 150 (used only for Speedhut gauge)




The steam vent hose to the surge tank is gushing fluid continuously. That should just be steam (right?) so somewhere there is a blockage shunting fluid through the steam vent pathway

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227546&d=1774897939






So lots of weirdness




Maybe it is just air pockets.

I'll rule out the thermostat then if still acting up, will do what you said and jack up the front. I did vacuum fill the coolant system this last time, and will do that again this time

[PNWTim]

Your car is doing exactly what my Camaro did and it was air trapped in the system and preventing flow. If your lower hose isn't warm there is no flow through your entire radiator and system overall. Your setup is a little different than my car but the cold lower hose is kind of a dead giveaway. I can't speak to the thermostat you bought but

[JimStone]

Your car is doing exactly what my Camaro did and it was air trapped in the system and preventing flow. If your lower hose isn't warm there is no flow through your entire radiator and system overall. Your setup is a little different than my car but the cold lower hose is kind of a dead giveaway. I can't speak to the thermostat you bought but

Thanks Tim

That's actually really reassuring. I was having doomsday thoughts of having to take the engine apart to fish out a shop rag or something. :eek:

[JimStone]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227582&d=1774931640

New OEM (AC Delco) thermostat on the left (187 F)

"Old" Michigan Motorsports thermostat on the right (180F)

The OEM is definitely more beefy a part, but the diameter of the seal is the same, as well as the length. So I think they're functionally the same


And the old one did open in boiling water. So, probably wasted my time, but at least now I can now eliminate the thermostat as the problem.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227581&d=1774931640


Everything hooked back up

I love the AN hoses. Makes it super easy

I will refill with coolant tomorrow (vacuum fill with my Vevor tool) and see what's what

[lewma]

Jim, what temperatures are you seeing while idling ?

[JimStone]

Jim, what temperatures are you seeing while idling ?


I've gotten it up to around 230F before shutting it down. At least that was the reading from the right cylinder head sensor. The left was maybe 160. And thermostat never opened. So clearly coolant wasn't flowing all the way through the engine.

I've only fired up the engine maybe 7-8 times, for 3-5 min at a time. Trying to figure out this coolant issue.

[jemorgan3]

I really like the AN hose setup in the coolant system! Did you detail that (routing, parts used, ect) in your build? I might steal the ideas from you, if you get it sorted out that is ;)

[lewma]

I've gotten it up to around 230F before shutting it down. At least that was the reading from the right cylinder head sensor. The left was maybe 160. And thermostat never opened. So clearly coolant wasn't flowing all the way through the engine.

I've only fired up the engine maybe 7-8 times, for 3-5 min at a time. Trying to figure out this coolant issue.

Do you have the heater hoses hooked up so coolant can flow in/out of that unit ?

[JimStone]

Do you have the heater hoses hooked up so coolant can flow in/out of that unit ?

Yes, the heater hoses are connected and they do seem to get warm.

I know that does make sense then why the thermostat didn't open since the heater hoses then send fluid right past the thermostat

[JimStone]

I really like the AN hose setup in the coolant system! Did you detail that (routing, parts used, ect) in your build? I might steal the ideas from you, if you get it sorted out that is ;)

I very briefly discussed it, but didn't do a thorough post. I'll do that for you in the next few days.

It did require quite a bit of thought and planning (mostly for the lower radiator hose because of the dumb way the radiator neck is angled right into the frame rail)

[JimStone]

I re-bled the brakes yesterday because I wasn't satisfied with a previous attempt. The rears were the problem. Finally got the air out and was feeling a nice firm brake pedal when "splat", a bunch of brake fluid spurted down onto the pedal box floor.

Immediately, I knew it was a master cylinder issue. And yet again, the leak was coming from the NPT connection at the end of the MC. Same thing happened several months ago, only this time it was the rear brakes MC instead of the front brakes MC


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227614&d=1775050126



Last time, I wasn't sure if I had over torqued and damaged the MC NPT threads, or if the adaptor was to blame. This time I know it's the adaptor.

You can see the difference in how deeply the adaptor threads into the MC:

First the Rear/leaking fitting (is essentially bottoming out):

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227612&d=1775049828


Versus the refurbished front MC (several threads exposed):

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227611&d=1775049828




Last time I replaced the whole MC and adaptor. This time I'll just replace the adaptor.

The adaptor that failed/wasn't machined probably is actually a Wilwood product, so that's disappointing.

Since I don't have to remove the whole MC this time, it won't be too big a job



-------


I also flushed the coolant system with distilled water 3x because I was getting a bunch of dirty coolant and sediment out.

This is what drained after the 3rd flush

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227609&d=1775049828


Less sediment, but still dirty



Is this normal?

[jemorgan3]

I would say that is not "normal".. Especially when all new components are used. Is it a fluid contamination or is it grit? I'm sure blueprint cleans their blocks before assembling, so i wouldn't think its junk from the coolant passages. May be worth shooting them an email with a picture of whats coming out.

[JimStone]

I would say that is not "normal".. Especially when all new components are used. Is it a fluid contamination or is it grit? I'm sure blueprint cleans their blocks before assembling, so i wouldn't think its junk from the coolant passages. May be worth shooting them an email with a picture of whats coming out.

It seems to just be fine grit. And lots of it.

After the first flush, there was about a 1/2 cup of dark brown/gray grit at the bottom of the bucket.

2nd flush had maybe a a few tablespoons

3rd flush a teaspoon


I did make all my AN coolant lines, so there may be some dust from that. But I flushed and cleaned them before installation.

Sand from block casting?




I keep reminding myself that Blueprint did Dyno this engine, so there must not be a defect or blockage in the coolant passages or it wouldn't have made it through the Dyno session

[PNWTim]

Jim - I don't want to freak you out but a 1/2 cup of any kind of grit is not normal by any stretch. I can't imagine there is anywhere near that amount of residue inside your lines so it either came from the coolant, the engine or the radiator. Some obvious questions:

Did you use brand new coolant?
Did you put an additive in it?
Is the grit magnetic?

It is possible it is casting sand? from the block or head manufacturing process (or maybe the radiator but it's made differently) that just somehow didn't get flushed out of one of the water jackets during the dyno process. I think I would call Blueprint and ask them if this is even possible. I would also use whatever method you are using to flush until there is none.

[JimStone]

Jim - I don't want to freak you ;)out but a 1/2 cup of any kind of grit is not normal by any stretch. I can't imagine there is anywhere near that amount of residue inside your lines so it either came from the coolant, the engine or the radiator. Some obvious questions:

Did you use brand new coolant?
Did you put an additive in it?
Is the grit magnetic?

It is possible it is casting sand? from the block or head manufacturing process (or maybe the radiator but it's made differently) that just somehow didn't get flushed out of one of the water jackets during the dyno process. I think I would call Blueprint and ask them if this is even possible. I would also use whatever method you are using to flush until there is none.



Thanks Tim,

I used new new coolant without additives. It was a nice clear orange color when it went in.

This stuff:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227664&d=1775066588


I didn't think to check if it was magnetic. I'll test it when I get home


Thanks for freaking me out Tim. J/k. ;)

[lewma]

Jim, if you made those coolant lines yourself, did you blow them out before connecting up ? Could that just be residue from the lines ?

[JimStone]

Jim, if you made those coolant lines yourself, did you blow them out before connecting up ? Could that just be residue from the lines ?


Hey Mark,

With the lines, I blew them out, flushed with soapy water then rinsed, then blew out again. Only thing I didn't do (and maybe I should have) was use a long bottle brush or something to scrub the insides of the hoses. And/or flush with a solvent




Tonight I'm going to do major flushing. Take the radiator hoses off and thermostat out, and flush through the block and radiator continuously until clear. Then flush the heater hoses and heater core too.

I've already used 8 gallons of distilled water and looks like I still have a lot more flushing to do, so I'm going to switch to the hose. Then do a final flush with distilled to get any minerals out.



I'm also thinking of using a cooling system cleaner like this:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227666&d=1775071360

[Papa]

My BPE 347 was the same way. When they dyno the engines, I think they just run plain water, not antifreeze in the engines. Mine sat a few months before installing it and filling with coolant. I had to drain it and flush multiple times to get all the crud out of the engine that I think was just rust from the block being wet with no coolant for so long.

[JimStone]

My BPE 347 was the same way. When they dyno the engines, I think they just run plain water, not antifreeze in the engines. Mine sat a few months before installing it and filling with coolant. I had to drain it and flush multiple times to get all the crude out of the engine that I think was just rust from the block being wet with no coolant for so long.


Thanks Papa!! I think that explains it!

I bought my engine in June 2025 but didn't fill with coolant and have first start until 2 months ago. So it sat for 8 months

(And mine is a cast iron block, not the aluminum casting)



That is a relief, actually



Here is what we flushed on the 6th flushing cycle tonight:


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227679&d=1775102692

Still nasty, but at least there is no more sediment at the bottom of the bucket.


If the coolant passageways are rusted, maybe it will never fully clear


I'm going to try the cleanser tomorrow, but I'm getting pretty tired of the his flushing procedure

[Papa]

You might try a power flush like this video demonstrates:


https://youtu.be/JUIma8ATKvg?si=Hy4wiCAGnrLFhMqe

The guns are relatively inexpensive on Amazon.

[jemorgan3]

Id consider a coolant filter, like diesel engines have at some point in the circuit. I cant imagine all the sediment that is discoloring the water will extend the lifespan of the water pump any, not to mention the passeges in the radiator!

[PMD24]

Wondering if the AN hose material is compatible with the specific coolant used?

[JimStone]

Thanks for the feedback and thoughts guys





You might try a power flush like this video demonstrates:


https://youtu.be/JUIma8ATKvg?si=Hy4wiCAGnrLFhMqe

The guns are relatively inexpensive on Amazon.


I've been doing something similar, using a radiator adaptor cap and using compressed air to blow out the system.


Today, I used Prestone coolant cleaner, filled the system, and ran it for 10-15 min.


This is what I drained afterwards

(our nightly bucket photo)



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227712&d=1775188502



No sediment at the bottom.

Doesn't necessarily look it on the photo, but it is clearing up.










Id consider a coolant filter, like diesel engines have at some point in the circuit. I cant imagine all the sediment that is discoloring the water will extend the lifespan of the water pump any, not to mention the passeges in the radiator!


I have thought about the filter, but I'd have to alter my AN coolant lines and I'm not super thrilled about doing that. I'm going to flush a few more times tomorrow, then just call it done.

I'll plan to do an early coolant change after 100 miles / a few hours on the engine.









Wondering if the AN hose material is compatible with the specific coolant used?



Good thought. I used braided CPE hoses for all the coolant lines. Per my reading, this is definitely compatible with Dex-Cool coolant. Perhaps not as long-lasting as EPDM or Silicone, but not because of reacting with coolant.








I've been running it without the thermostat the last few days. I'm going to re-install and hopefully I won't have the issues I had previously with the thermostat never opening and the engine overheating.


I did realize today that I had my radiator fan wired backwards, so it was pushing instead of pulling. Fixed that issue, but I don't think it's related to my previous problems.

[JimStone]

Family and I are on vacation at the biggest tourist traps in the world: Disney and Universal Studios. Then onto another mindless vacation staple - a Caribbean Cruise. The kids love it.

I'm more of an off-the beaten-path kind of vacationer.


Gives me time to post about things unrelated to where I'm at on the build.


For instance, I put my 3D printer to use making car stuff that won't go on the car


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227970&d=1775768879






And a headphones stand with the Deimos logo.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227971&d=1775768879






I'm also looking into making Project Deimos T-shirts if anyone's interested (probably wii be just me)


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227972&d=1775769848



ChatGPT did a pretty good job, but just could not get the radiator tunnel exit right. Also struggled with, then gave up on the F14 wheels

[JimStone]

Last week jemorgan3 requested some more details on my AN coolant lines. I only briefly mentioned them earlier in the thread when they were installed.

So here goes






I'm not a fan of plain rubber hoses. Just an aesthetics thing. So I essentially changed everything to braided stainless or nylon hoses (either CPE or PTFE, based on the use) with AN fittings. The only exceptions are the A/C lines, which there really are no braided hose substitutes. To dress those up, I covered them in these carbon fiber braided sleeves: https://www.racetronix.biz/p/loom-carbon-fiber-light-3-4/299-cal0-75-bk


For the heater hoses, I used 12AN hoses and fittings from Evil Energy. I used the "full flow" versions of the fittings.

I know Evil Energy is considered the "budget" brand for AN products, but I think their stuff is good quality with excellent value, and I haven't had a single failure. Plus I like being able to buy a single fitting when needed on Amazon and get it the next day with free shipping.

I had been using all Fragola hose and fittings for systems I completed previously (reservoir lines, power steering, steam vents, PCV/ventilation), but I had 3 failures in their fittings. And, of course, more expensive.


By far the biggest challenge I had with the heater hoses was self-created because I wanted the heater control valve moved into the footbox. Space is really tight in there with the AC evaporator box. I tried a bunch of various configurations that wouldn't fit, but ultimately what I ended up with was to use the kit supplied rubber hoses inside the footbox passing just through the footbox aluminum via NotcHead Firewall Rings. Then used I used barbed to AN adapters to begin the AN hose lines.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227716&d=1775237565


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227720&d=1775237565


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227719&d=1775237565




The heater hose connections to the LS required tapping the water pump for 1/2" NPT threads for adaptors.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227994&d=1775845490




I used this Summit Racing tank for the "surge tank" with a T-fitting at the bottom to connect it to the heater hose circuit:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-300118

[JimStone]

The radiator hoses are 20AN in size. They're pretty stiff so need to be precisely made or the fittings won't line up and thread on


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227723&d=1775237598


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227722&d=1775237598




The hose end fittings are from Racetronix. AutoPlumb is the "big" name in the radiator hose AN conversion game, but everything is quite pricey. The Racetronix fittings seem perfectly fine.




I did use AutoPlumb water neck adaptors. Needed 3 of them. I'm not aware of any other company that makes adaptors like these. I haven't had any leaks thus far, although I have limited engine run time.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227731&d=1775237629


Besides the 3 AutoPlumb adaptors, I also needed an LS3 thermostat housing with a 20AN connection. AutoPlumb has them, but I went for a generic that probably is made at the same factory but 1/2 the price: https://www.amazon.com/Flashpower-Billet-Swivel-Thermostat-Housings-Water-NecK-20AN-LS-Engine-Black/dp/B07174DJYM?pd_rd_w=tysB4&content-id=amzn1.sym.2d032569-b0bd-420a-ad3a-7e5c8744bf78&pf_rd_p=2d032569-b0bd-420a-ad3a-7e5c8744bf78&pf_rd_r=8EY6N0Q8S8S4GZG6DJDJ&pd_rd_wg=YG2T2&pd_rd_r=7d5578c2-1034-4cdc-8afb-8070f809661b&pd_rd_i=B07174DJYM&psc=1&ref_=pd_basp_m_rpt_ba_s_5_sc

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228025&d=1775887045


The 20AN nylon braided CPE hose I got from Amazon. Way less expensive than AutoPlumb and seems really nice to me (no expert): https://www.amazon.com/Autoutfit-Nylon-Braided-Rubber-Cooling/dp/B0BFHFMDY7?pd_rd_w=Z8dbz&content-id=amzn1.sym.2d032569-b0bd-420a-ad3a-7e5c8744bf78&pf_rd_p=2d032569-b0bd-420a-ad3a-7e5c8744bf78&pf_rd_r=0SP9SWF3VB72QX4AHCZ7&pd_rd_wg=yV2JV&pd_rd_r=2caaaa6f-4e46-4bc0-9871-596fa83186f8&pd_rd_i=B0BFHFMDY7&psc=1&ref_=pd_basp_m_rpt_ba_s_30_sc


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228024&d=1775887045



For my LS3, the upper radiator hose is a simple straight-ish shot

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227730&d=1775237616

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220509&d=1761051543

[JimStone]

The lower radiator hose is much more difficult, thanks to the ill-thought out angled water neck on the radiator that points directly into a frame member. Also in the way is the sway bar, battery, and a bunch of other frame rails.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227725&d=1775237598


I pieced together a pathway out of aluminum tubing from Amazon, silicone couplers, connected by Gates Powergrips. The aluminum tubing has beads on them, otherwise I think the connections would slip. This was primarily trial and error until I got something that would fit.




https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227724&d=1775237598


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227726&d=1775237616




Then the last leg to the thermostat housing is the AN hose


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227727&d=1775237616



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227728&d=1775237616



Looking back to do this write-up, it's no wonder it's taken me forever to get to my current stage in the build.

[PNWTim]

Thanks for sharing Jim. You are fortunate there are so many options for LS engines. I think this can be done with a Coyote but it would be a challenge. I really like AN fittings as well but they seem to go up exponentially in price once you leave behind -8 sizes. Looks great.

[Blitzboy54]

Just exceptionally good looking stuff.

[460.465USMC]

Just catching up on your excellent thread, Jim. Whoa! You're getting your fair share of challenges, and then some. I know the coolant flow issue won't slow you down for long. Hang in there! Thanks for bringing us along. I'm learning right along with you, and appreciate all the forum wisdom.

[JimStone]

Thanks for the kind words guys. I appreciate the encouragement





------------------

To close the chapter on two recent head-scratching issues:


1) I figured out why my two Wilwood brake master cylinders have leaked at the outlet

I used Wilwood 1/8" NPT to 3AN adaptors to hook up the MC to my brake lines (used 37 degree/AN flares on my stainless brake lines). Paid a premium for the Wilwood name brand to ensure there would be no issue

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-220-6956

You can see below that the NPT threads on the Wilwood adapter (bottom) are hardly tapered at all, compared to my generic replacement (top)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228133&d=1776117827

Without the taper, the interference seal never was solid. My cheap replacements adapters didn't need to thread in as far before there was resistance.

This is really annoying, because I initially assumed that I was the problem and over-torqued and broke the first master cylinder that leaked. I bought a whole new replacement MC.

Turns out it was just junk fittings from Wilwood


I have 3rd Wilwood master cylinder. That one uses a 1/8"NPT to 4AN fitting. It also was from Wilwood, but looks perfectly fine (adequately tapered). Fingers crossed.










2) Figured out why my two coolant sensors were reading dramatically different coolant temps. (...long explanation below - short version is it was the wrong sensor...)

My engine came with one coolant sensor already installed from Blueprint on the driver's side cylinder head. The second sensor came with the Holley Terminator X, which I installed in the passenger side cylinder head.

The Holley sensor clearly went to the Holley. The Blueprint one was already installed and had the correct connection to the Speedhut gauge cable, so I just hooked it up.

I actually had a 3rd coolant temp sensor that came with the Speedhut gauge, but it didn't seem like I would need that.



When running the engine, the Holley sensor was saying the coolant was heating up (actually overheating) but the Speedhut gauge's needle would hardly move. The thermostat clearly wasn't opening correctly (as per my previous posts), but was the coolant also not circulating through the engine?

I used an infrared thermometer to check for hot spots and the engine seemed to be heating symmetrically.

I tested and compared the resistance output coming from the two sensors and the readings were similar.

Only after I took the Blueprint sensor out and showed ChatGPT a picture did I learn the issue.


Below is a picture of the Blueprint CTS (right) and Speedhut sensor (left). Chat GPT informed me that I was trying to use an ECU sensor when a gauge sensor was needed. ECU sensors have a lower resistance range, thus why my Speedhut gauge was only very slowly rising compared to what I was seeing on my laptop in the Holley software.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228132&d=1776117827


So, there are two different coolant sensor types. You all probably knew that. Now I do too.

The Speedhut sensor did require a 1/4" NPT to 1/8" bushing, but got it installed and now both measurements are similar.

This was confusing, but I am very relieved. Means my engine isn't F-ed!

[Papa]

Good news all around! Glad you got those issues resolved. Looking at the brake fittings, the thread pitch looks completely different.

[PNWTim]

Glad you got it squared away. Not sure where or how you are getting your oil pressure but that is a dedicated Speedhut sending unit as well. It should have come with your gauge set. They are proprietary to Speedhut (just like the water temp sending unit) so confirm you are not using Blueprint's standard Chevy sending unit.

[JimStone]

Good news all around! Glad you got those issues resolved. Looking at the brake fittings, the thread pitch looks completely different.

Thanks Papa


Yeah, I'm wondering if it was a bad batch. I believe it came labeled correctly in its baggie, but that was two years ago so who knows...

Being one of the earlier parts I installed on the build, I didn't have a Spidey sense that something wasn't right. I'd like to think I would catch that now.













Glad you got it squared away. Not sure where or how you are getting your oil pressure but that is a dedicated Speedhut sending unit as well. It should have come with your gauge set. They are proprietary to Speedhut (just like the water temp sending unit) so confirm you are not using Blueprint's standard Chevy sending unit.


Oh man, I had no idea their sensors were proprietary. Explains a lot!

Yes, fortunately I did use Speedhut's oil temp sensor and it seems to be working.

Thanks Tim






Clearly a lot of my mistakes are due to inexperience, which could be minimized if I knew to ask a question before making the mistake.

But some stuff just seems so straightforward and obvious that I couldn't possibly screw it up!

[PNWTim]

Thanks Papa


Yeah, I'm wondering if it was a bad batch. I believe it came labeled correctly in its baggie, but that was two years ago so who knows...

Being one of the earlier parts I installed on the build, I didn't have a Spidey sense that something wasn't right. I'd like to think I would catch that now.















Oh man, I had no idea their sensors were proprietary. Explains a lot!

Yes, fortunately I did use Speedhut's oil temp sensor and it seems to be working.

Thanks Tim






Clearly a lot of my mistakes are due to inexperience, which could be minimized if I knew to ask a question before making the mistake.

But some stuff just seems so straightforward and obvious that I couldn't possibly screw it up!

That old saying "you don't know what you don't know" is never more true than when building one of these cars. Even when I know I still forget and have to redo things. Went to install my headers last night, knew the DS wouldn't install with the alternator in place but guess what? I had forgotten that tip and reinstalled the alternator. Live and learn I guess.

[JimStone]

Finally, my engine is working properly!


I had been having issues with "overheating" and the thermostat seemingly never opening (lower radiator hose was never getting hot).

Turns out, everything was fine. Except I had the wrong temp sensors.

Tim pointed out that Speedhut's temp sensors are proprietary. They give a different resistance range than does a typical coolant temperature sensor. I didn't know that when hooking the Holley and Speedhut gauge wires. I had them reversed.

Net result: The Terminator X thought the engine was about 50 degrees hotter than it was, and Speedhut gauge thought it was 50 degrees cooler. Had me going nuts trying to figure out why one side of the engine was hot and the other cold.

Took me waaaay longer than it should have to figure this out, but got those sensors switched.

After filling with coolant for the nth time, then doing some short "burping" runs, everything ran great. The engine got up to temp, the fan ran for a bit, the thermostat opened (warm lower hose), the temp went back down, fan turned off, then repeat.

Turns out I was just shutting the engine down before the thermostat had the opportunity to open because I was being fooled into thinking the cylinder heads were about to warp.

I'm very relieved by this. Now onward to first Go Kart!










Pinewood Derby:

The kid's school has a pinewood derby each Spring, which the boys get really into. Of course, I also get a bit (too) involved with the car builds.

This year my 8 year-old wanted an F1 car and my 5 year-old a Porsche GT3 RS. We have the 3D printer this year, so will be adding some printed parts to the wood carvings.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228579&d=1777312286



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228582&d=1777312286




https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228583&d=1777312286


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228584&d=1777312297




Not sure the GT3 looks exactly like a GT3, but pretty awesome nonetheless and the kids are thrilled.

Will update when printed parts and painting is done.

[PNWTim]

That's great news on the engine front, good job figuring it all out.

Don't forget the strategic addition of lead...