Bad bleeder valve?

[Cleve]

Trying to bleed the rear brakes. We have a vacuum system to bleed the brakes and it seems to be working properly. We were sucking lots of bubbles through the system along with some fluid but still more bubbles than we thought we should have. I thought maybe I had the bleeder valve open more than I should and it was sucking air down through the threads. So I kept closing the valve a little more and I still see bubbles. Finally I closed the bleeder as tight as reasonable and still seeing bubbles. I am thinking that the bleeder valve has been cycled so many times that the seat is no longer air tight. I don't think the hose is leaking at the bleeder valve because we have a new hose that came with the vacuum kit and its a very tight fit.

I am thinking o purchasing a new bleeder valve fitting and hopefully that will solve my problem?. Has anyone heard of or had a similar problem with a defective leaking bleeder valve, I sure hope so.
Thanks for any come back.
Cleve

[rich grsc]

Ditch the vacuum bleeder, they just really suck. npi

[egchewy79]

Step on the brake. Is fluid coming out of the valve? If so, replace it.

[Buzzsaw]

I bought one of the reverse bleeding systems from Phoenix, I am not saying it’s junk but I could not get it to work properly. Ended up using a board cut to length holding the brake pedal down while I loosened/ tightened the bleeder valve. ( the old fashion way). Took a bunch of trips back and forth and 45 minutes to 1 hour to bleed my system.

[kirby]

I had this same problem with the vacuum setup I used to bleed motorcycles for years when I tried it on my roadster. I then found a way to pressurize the system from the reservoir and my brakes bled fine. I do think air was leaking around the hose on the bleeder valve for me.

[gbranham]

I have vacuum bled and done the two-person approach (one pushing pedal, one opening bleeder) more than I care to admit, and I was dreading doing either on this build. As Rich says, ditch the vacuum bleeder, and get a pressure bleeder. I got mine on Amazon for $50, and I bled my brakes by myself in about 30 minutes, and that was running around the horn twice. Rock solid pedal, no air. Just awesome, and I'll never bleed brakes any other way. Do it. DO IT! :)

Read this....Brake Bleeding Success! (thefactoryfiveforum.com) (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?47885-Brake-Bleeding-Success!)

[kirby]

To pile on...cause why not. Greg is the one who convinced me to go with a pressure bleeder. I made something to use rather than purchasing off amazon. I agree I will never bleed brakes any other way.

For me I had an extra cap for the Factory Five supplied reservoir. I tapped a fitting into the top to attach a hand pump to (with a gauge) that I used to test turbo waste gates on the new ecoboost ford trucks. I wrapped the threads on the fitting and for the reservoir with teflon and it worked like a champ. Just watch to make sure you don not run the system dry from the reservoir or you will have to start all over.

Others have done something similar with a flat plate and some c clamps.

[Cleve]

Thanks for your help with my brake bleeder problem. If possible could you send a picture of the bleed er system you designed and built. Thanks
if easier you can email it. to cmsibley@comcast.net

[gbranham]

Kirby already had most of what he needed. If you're starting from scratch, this may be just as cheap, and it has everything you need to pressure bleed using the kit-supplied reservoir.

Amazon.com: SMOTIVEPRO 2L Manual Brake Bleeder Fluid Pump, One Man Professional Brake Bleeder Kit Suitable for Most Brake Mast Cylinder Reservoirs : Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/SMOTIVEPRO-Professional-Suitable-Cylinder-Reservoirs/dp/B095JYYQ2P/ref=sr_1_9?crid=RFU0BFG073N0&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.ScZx-YqVCUniwihNJ_H0_CMZlZFQFnIhO9Bq2xS7-DfcyCeytNDXwYXV3KuzOACog5cNm3HYxEBNwCvk0O7CnFAbByI va0PeUHDAEoLNxXCn1jAKjEZtdwT-GT065LhRJ9kls5f3NMQbLKoCxQXhl3fwkiOubsiply8bkOj7zz sToeGnO-e2GjALM_wyhiITYFoFHWxzP_Bf5kNrLeVwcjVBOpc9MMMumLVD OxeXXz1QlAchfwSWep5-JJ9jbOmhyJH32fXDJruADBUFv8cfu8JXvVnjlMJ1pHmvZTmZxC Q.F8jtBNMOOi0x5ALzGJdEE49Pr4f05MXHJvmTdM3IQkY&dib_tag=se&keywords=brake+bleeder+pressure+kit&qid=1715349687&sprefix=brake+bleeder+%2Caps%2C189&sr=8-9)

[BornWestUSA]

I bought a partially completed roadster with a very soft brake pedal. The builder was unable to bleed the brakes using a pressure bleeder or two people I was told.

Some research into Wilwood brakes said you must bleed the front and rear at the same time to get full travel of both master cylinders.

The other problem was the rear calipers had the bleeder screws facing down, the screws must point up during bleeding to get all the air out, this is mechanics 101.

I ended up temporarily moving the rear calipers to get the bleeders pointing up, then attached a bleeder bottle to one front and one rear at a time.

As soon as I cracked the bleeders gravity did most of the work, I followed up with a few pumps and then did the other two wheels.

Done. One person. No pressure or vacuum bleeder used. Rock hard pedal.

[rich grsc]

These pressure bleeders work great, BUT they do have an issue. Be sure you clean them after use, or plan on replacing the hoses. I did not the last time I used mine, and the next time, the hose split and sprayed brake fluid everywhere.

[gbranham]

These pressure bleeders work great, BUT they do have an issue. Be sure you clean them after use, or plan on replacing the hoses. I did not the last time I used mine, and the next time, the hose split and sprayed brake fluid everywhere.

That's why you don't put any fluid in them, and just keep your brake reservoir full. ;) The pressure bleeder should supply pressure, not pressure and fluid.

[dbo_texas]

If you are concerned about air coming through the bleeder threads, I've seen some videos of people applying a nice thick layer of lithium grease around the bleeder which may help stop air from coming in. Then just wipe off the grease after bleeding. I haven't tried this myself so not sure if it works or not, but its super easy to try it and maybe save yourself some time. If your bleeder valve is bad though for sure you would want to replace it, but maybe try the grease method first to see if that makes the bubbles go away, then at least you will know if the valve is bad.

[rich grsc]

That's why you don't put any fluid in them, and just keep your brake reservoir full. ;) The pressure bleeder should supply pressure, not pressure and fluid.

Sorry, you have no idea how to use a fluid pressure bleeder.

[gbranham]

Sorry, you have no idea how to use a fluid pressure bleeder.

I guess a bunch of us don't know, then. Plenty of folks on this forum use a pressure bleeder dry with great results. The brake reservoir provides the fluid, and the pressure bleeder provides the pressure. Works great. You should try it, so you don't have to clean out your hoses, or buy new ones when you forget. More than one way to skin a cat, chief.

[J R Jones]

I guess a bunch of us don't know, then. Plenty of folks on this forum use a pressure bleeder dry with great results. The brake reservoir provides the fluid, and the pressure bleeder provides the pressure. Works great. You should try it, so you don't have to clean out your hoses, or buy new ones when you forget. More than one way to skin a cat, chief.

dbo note:
With a background in the marine industry, I learned tricks to fight corrosion. One trick is to coat male (steel) threads going into aluminum with Permatex #3 non hardening sealant. Actually it does eventually dry out but it seals the threads from moisture and the threads do not corrode. I use it on brake bleeders too, as conventional fluid attracts moisture. I find the Permatex does block air from sucking down the threads. I predict it may not work for everyone all the time, but it has worked for me consistently. Pressure bleeding and pedal bleeding also work well for me.
jim

[dbo_texas]

dbo note:
With a background in the marine industry, I learned tricks to fight corrosion. One trick is to coat male (steel) threads going into aluminum with Permatex #3 non hardening sealant. Actually it does eventually dry out but it seals the threads from moisture and the threads do not corrode. I use it on brake bleeders too, as conventional fluid attracts moisture. I find the Permatex does block air from sucking down the threads. I predict it may not work for everyone all the time, but it has worked for me consistently. Pressure bleeding and pedal bleeding also work well for me.
jim

This is a good tip --> I'm using the Permatex #3 in a couple of other areas on my build on some of the NPT threads (plug in coolant expansion tank, right angle barbs on my triple reservoir, etc). I'm about to bleed my brakes and I also have a vacuum bleeder so I'll give this a try instead of the glob of grease around the outside.

[rich grsc]

I guess a bunch of us don't know, then. Plenty of folks on this forum use a pressure bleeder dry with great results. The brake reservoir provides the fluid, and the pressure bleeder provides the pressure. Works great. You should try it, so you don't have to clean out your hoses, or buy new ones when you forget. More than one way to skin a cat, chief.

So why would I buy a tool and then NEVER use it as it was designed for, what would be the point? Used as it's designed, you NEVER run out of fluid while bleeding the brakes and don't introduce air BACK into the system. If all you wanted to do was blow air through the brakes system, just use an air hose.
May I suggest you go online and see how to use one
Saved you the effort, skip the first 2 min, and learn how to use pressure bleeder. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sKIB-xDkrV8

[gbranham]

You do you, Rich. You do you. The rest of us will draw on each other's experiences and creative thinking. I know it's hard for you to accept that you're not the big brain in the room and that there are more than just Rich's ways of doing things. All good, my man. Have a nice weekend.

Greg