AN Hose Specialists Needed

[cv2065]

I'm putting AN fuel hoses together for the first time and learning some lessons! I have the Hot Rod Hoses setup and everything seems to be of nice quality. I'm practicing on a smaller hose setup before I do any long runs to avoid any costly mistakes.

I have hose cutting shears, Kool Tools fittings and aluminum jaws for the vice. Workflow is as follows:

1. Tape braided hose where I want to cut and mark.
2. Use shears to cut as straight as possible.
3. Use tool to straighten out the smashed PTFE hose and round it out again
4. Slide #1 fitting end over the hose
5. Take tape off and trim any frayed or loose metal
6. Use small screwdriver to pry some of the metal away from the tube to make way for the olive
7. Insert olive (tapered side first) into the hose ensuring it sets against the plastic tube all the way around (no metal underneath)
8. Insert #2 coupling fitting into the hose
9. Oil up threads and connect fitting #1 to fitting #2
10. Tighten in vice until there is a 1/16" gap between both

Went through all of the steps but realized that I liked a cutoff wheel better than the shears. The cuts are more even and it doesn't smash the tubing. Took the tape off of the end and no flair of material as there was when I used the shears, so it was a little harder to separate from the tube. In fact, the braided nylon covering slid down a bit to make it easier. I put the olive on and the tube seated inside to the lip all the way around. Oiled up the threads and I can easily tighten both fittings together without any resistance. I wasn't expecting that. What did I do wrong?

[scrubs]

https://youtu.be/t2v3spzoZr0?feature=shared

Once both ends done, pressurize w air under water to test so the chance of leak minimal once installed

[cv2065]

https://youtu.be/t2v3spzoZr0?feature=shared

Once both ends done, pressurize w air under water to test so the chance of leak minimal once installed

Thanks. I bought some Earls fittings for that once done. My main issue is that it doesn’t feel like the olive is under any kind of pressure and the fittings easily tighten together with no gap or resistance. Another thing to note is that my initial fitting that goes on the hose slips over very easy with almost no effort. The videos show different.

Looks like this with the olive in place and seated flush.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9202.JPG?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9202.JPG?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds)

And this once screwed together by hand. Twists together with ease. No gaps. No tension.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9203.JPG?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9203.JPG?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds)

[Jim1855]

I have the HotRod hose and fittings as well. Haven't tried the assembly yet. Did buy the shears and will take your comments into consideration.

Only change I'd make from your process is to slide the outer piece onto the tube prior to cutting. I think that will work and then you wouldn't need to work over the tape and the newly cut end.

Not sure on how tight the connections need to be, again I haven't assembled these fittings. As was mentioned by scrubs, testing is recommended. I'd try to test it beyond the pressure of your system.

If you use the cutoff wheel cleaning is more of an issue. Not sure if there's any steel braid in the line. It doesn't take much to restrict flow in a carb or injector. I have personal experience here.

Good luck with the project. I like the HotRod Hose team, they did me well.

Jim

[cv2065]

Thanks Jim. I haven’t tried assembling again, but I think the issue is that you have to have the olive inside of the braided sheeth. So if it the sheeth slides down like mine, there’s nothing for the olive to tighten up against. I’m not 100% sure but we’ll see. The first fitting that I put together after cutting it with the shears tightened up as expected, but cutting with the cut off wheel makes it harder to separate but gives a cleaner cut.

[Its Bruce]

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9202.JPG?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9202.JPG?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds)

The olive should not be that visible; it should be under the braiding.

[gbranham]

Bought shears, hated how it crushed the hose, so I abandoned that, and used a cutoff wheel with several layers of electrical tape. Worked great.

[F500guy]

The "olive" should be between the outer sheath and inner tube, looks like it is to far pushed down the hose.

[cv2065]

The "olive" should be between the outer sheath and inner tube, looks like it is to far pushed down the hose.

That’s what I was thinking. The olive in the pic is seated correctly on the tube but it’s not under the outer sheath as the sheath slide down as I was attempting to separate it from the tube. I didn’t think the outer sheath had anything to do with the sealing of the olive against the fittings but apparently it does.

[egchewy79]

you forgot the step where the braided SS metal pokes multiple holes in your fingertips making it shower blood all over your work bench.

[Blitzboy54]

I found the cutoff wheel to be a whole order of magnitude better. The trick for me was the frayed metal braid. The wheel just did a cleaner job. I also found everything worked better in one shot. If I couldn't get it clean the first time it was better to re cut the hose and try again.

[cv2065]

I found the cutoff wheel to be a whole order of magnitude better. The trick for me was the frayed metal braid. The wheel just did a cleaner job. I also found everything worked better in one shot. If I couldn't get it clean the first time it was better to re cut the hose and try again.

it cuts it off so clean that the metal doesn't fray when you take the tape off and makes it harder to separate while trying not to damage the tube itself. Did you use a small flathead screwdriver or a different tool?

[Blitzboy54]

it cuts it off so clean that the metal doesn't fray when you take the tape off and makes it harder to separate while trying not to damage the tube itself. Did you use a small flathead screwdriver or a different tool?

I used pliers to gently rotate the end of the braid back and forth (like gently), just enough to get it to unbraid a touch and get the fitting in between. Don't get me wrong, this whole process kinda sucks and you end up with 30 metal pricks per finger but the end product looks terrific is IMO worth the effort. It's a balancing act if it over frays its not worth it, under and it's too tight. I took the tape off and worked the end a little. I also took of foot of hose and used it for practice.

[robmccon]

I had good luck with HotRod hoses and fittings. I found their tech page very helpful, includes pictures and a video. https://hotrodfuelhose.com/pages/tech-page

[DanQ]

Cutoff wheel is far better than a shear for braided lines. Also remember to flush out the inside of your newly made hose assemblies prior to installing on the vehicle. It is amazing how much debris ends up inside.

[Alan_C]

Buy these cable cutters from Harbor Freight. By far the best tool for the job as I have made more than 10 hoses with them. They cut easily and cleanly unlike the sheers which dull quickly. Best yet, if the cuts show the cutters are getting dull, they have a lifetime warranty. Just take them back to HF and get a new set and continue. I am on my second set. Reminds me of the day when Craftsman had a free replacement warranty which is now history.

https://www.harborfreight.com/10-in-cable-cutters-63827.html?_br_psugg_q=cable+cutter

The other recommendation is I use and really like the Russell hose and fittings products for the PS hoses. The hose is rated at 2500 psi. With a little assembly lube, the hoses go together easily and do not leak. Just remember to clock the fittings before cinching down the fittings. For fuel, I have used Russell products but find even the Summit house brand PTFE lined hose and fittings work well and safe some bucks.

[gbranham]

Question:

After you cut your hose with the cutoff wheel, was the center PTFE hose end flush with the end of the braided outer liner? Your first picture looks as though the PTFE center hose is longer than the braided outer sheath by an amount equal to the length of the olive. When the olive is inserted on the PTFE hose properly, the top of the olive should be flush with the end of the braided sheath. If so, then you slide up the AN fitting that you pre-installed on the hose, effectively compressing the braided sheath around the olive, and then drawing up the other AN fitting should snug everything up tight.

When I did mine, I would wrap several layers of electrical tape around the end of the braid, then slide on the first AN fitting, then cut with cutoff wheel. Then I'd remove the electrical tape, and flare out the braid just a bit with a small flatblade screwdriver. I'd then clean up the end of the PTFE hose, then slide on the olive. Then slide back up the first AN fitting that's already on the hose, then thread the end AN fitting on. Voila. Worked perfect every time. It needed some pressure with two wrenches to snug up the fitting tight.

[idf]

Pegasus Auto Racing has a number of useful how to documents on proper assembly of AN hoses. I concur with those above that a fine cut off wheel on a Dremel is the best way to cut the hose. Pegasus sells some useful assembly tools including this: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3330

[Mike.Bray]

When I did mine, I would wrap several layers of electrical tape around the end of the braid, then slide on the first AN fitting, then cut with cutoff wheel. Then I'd remove the electrical tape, and flare out the braid just a bit with a small flatblade screwdriver. I'd then clean up the end of the PTFE hose, then slide on the olive. Then slide back up the first AN fitting that's already on the hose, then thread the end AN fitting on. Voila. Worked perfect every time. It needed some pressure with two wrenches to snug up the fitting tight.

Pretty much the same way I've always done them. To expand on this some, I've used both shears and cutoff wheels, seems like 6 one way and half a dozen the other way. One thing I would add is I take a tapered punch and insert it into the Teflon liner to get it back round before installing the ferrule. And lubricate everything lightly with some machine oil.

One other thing to add, get a set of these (https://www.holley.com/products/plumbing_an_fittings_and_hose/plumbing_tools/vice_jaws/parts/1004ERL). Absolutely the best $31 you can spend for AN hose tools. You can get a good grip on the hose without crushing it.

[cv2065]

Thanks for everyone’s comments and suggestions!