The Baroness: MkIV Roadster Build Thread

[Pmieras]

It’s today, it’s today, it’s today.

Best St. Patty’s day surprise ever. Kit gets delivered today between 9AM and 10AM.

First post of the build thread and I’m excited as hell to get started. Let the mayhem begin.
Actually it started a while ago with the motor build.

I’ll be documenting the process on the YouTube as well. You can check out the start of the channel here:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLpW451qAYncQFVCaQSzZfA6svVApuwxab

I will try to do my best to take some pics as well.

Some of the details are as follows:
MkIV complete kit
408 LS stroker built by me (you can check out the that build here: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLpW451qAYncSIJ5OasleYvj5K2kgr4Ct_
TKX transmission from Forte
Wilwood brakes
IRS

[gburchett]

Congrats!!! Looking forward to following your work.

[M. Townsend]

Just watched your LS build. Looking forward to seeing the car build too! Great work on the engine and I am sure the car will be just as well done.

[Pmieras]

My kit arrived
Super exciting day. Got the call early evening the day before (Mark was my driver). Setup a delivery window and I went off and had a long night of anticipation.
Bunch of friends and family were just as eager, so we setup to have multiple cameras present to capture the moment.

The morning of, I sent my son up the road to be a lookout and my neighbor got a drone up. All of us waiting. I could hardly contain my excitement.

Anyways here's a link to the vid. I had so much footage to scrub through. Have to trim a lot of fat to keep the video around 9 mins.


https://youtu.be/2a3ZFQYS4sU?si=F2ekuulH1BK28FwE

Mark was awesome. He made it more than just a delivery. He made it an experience to remember.
We talked about the kit. Showed him the motor. Just an awesome time.

He was never in a rush. Just a great guy.

Lots of boxes to go through

[Fman]

Congratulations, great day when the FFR trucks rolls up to your house. Your engine looks great! Enjoy the build, awesome journey ahead for you.

[BRRT]

Congratulations from a fellow LS builder! I always enjoy seeing the delivery day videos, it brings back the excitement of my delivery day. Mark was also my delivery driver - what a great dude!
Enjoy the build! I dropped my LS3/TKX in the chassis a couple weeks ago for test fitting. A lot of room around the engine.

[cv2065]

Loved the video and congrats!!

[Pmieras]

I got through the inventory of parts in less than a day which was surprising.
Everything for the most part was there which is a testament to FFR packaging. I didn't experience any supply issues left over from the pandemic. Nothing like what I had to wait for when I was building the motor.

Finished up the body buck and got all the aluminum panels off. Exciting stuff.

I'm really leaning towards Cerakoting a lot of the aluminum panels, just not looking forward to the time it's going to take to do it. Overall I think I'll be happier if I do it. But this might open the door to needing to coat a lot more parts as they go in.

I'm really impressed with the Cerakote that I put on the motor as far as durability. Hoisting the motor with chains didn't produce any scratches and nothing seems to stick to it. Not even tape.

I have a feeling that I'm going to be doing a lot of sand blasting for the Cerakote. I'll show my cheap / DIY blasting cabinet which is just a Harbour Freight portable media blaster and a cheap tent.


https://youtu.be/BDwWuSoLt30?si=hk3wM_p4YtClsmlt

[BRRT]

A couple things to check:

1.) When my kit was delivered FFR had an issue in their system and failed to include the Energy Suspension rear transmission mount. A couple emails and they sent it.
2.) The FFR order system decided a LS/TKX/IRS configuration required driveshaft #16038, which is way too short. The correct driveshaft is #60175. Once again, FFR made right after an email.

Enjoy the build!

[gbranham]

A couple things to check:

1.) When my kit was delivered FFR had an issue in their system and failed to include the Energy Suspension rear transmission mount. A couple emails and they sent it.
2.) The FFR order system decided a LS/TKX/IRS configuration required driveshaft #16038, which is way too short. The correct driveshaft is #60175. Once again, FFR made right after an email.

Enjoy the build!

Ditto on the driveshaft snafu, but not with an LS engine. I am Gen3 Coyote/TKX/IRS, and they got that wrong, too. Did the same thing to another customer around the same time as me with the same engine/trans/rear end config. It's a head scratcher.

[Pmieras]

A couple things to check:

1.) When my kit was delivered FFR had an issue in their system and failed to include the Energy Suspension rear transmission mount. A couple emails and they sent it.
2.) The FFR order system decided a LS/TKX/IRS configuration required driveshaft #16038, which is way too short. The correct driveshaft is #60175. Once again, FFR made right after an email.

Enjoy the build!

Good to know. I'll check that out. Thanks for the heads up.

I remember asking them during the order process about the drive shaft specifically cause the order form doesn't really cover it (at least in regards for a LS based power plant).

I checked my notes I took during the conversation when ordering the kit and looks like I requested the #60175 driveshaft as they recommended at the time. I'll check the part itself as well to confirm.

[Pmieras]

The kit has been fully disassembled and the build has started. She's starting to go together.

Slowly but surely. I think I bit off more than I chew with the Cerakote option. Tons of work, but I think it will be worth it.
Learned somethin about Cerakote "C" series. 1 day after application, I was able to scratch the coating (with effort) to make marks for cutting. After a full 5-7 days of full cure, it's significantly more durable.
I used Cerakote on my engine build and where the hoist chain made contact with the heads, not a mark.

I sand blasted for 2 days before I said that's enough for now. Able to finish all the non-boxed aluminum panels that I want to coat.
Wiped out my air compressor and had to replace after day 1. It served me well over the years with a lot of abuse. Still need to have a semi-portable air compressor or I would have gone with a large 60 gallon compressor or bigger.

I probably won't video much more of the Cerakoting other than some significant stuff, like possibly the side pipes, roll bars (if I don't change my mind), we'll see.


https://youtu.be/vC7QKlBpU8Y

Front suspension components next...

[M. Townsend]

Don't think I would call your tent a redneck solution. Definitely a step above my duct tape, hangers and plastic sheet. Your attention to detail will pay off... going to be a really nice build.

[twatson799]

Looking good. I am about a month behind you. My kit gets delivered this Saturday. I am looking into the Cerakote option. Any issues with paint chipping when you drill holes?

[Pmieras]

Looking good. I am about a month behind you. My kit gets delivered this Saturday. I am looking into the Cerakote option. Any issues with paint chipping when you drill holes?

No chipping so far. I ended up mounting the F-panels about a day after I coated them so they weren't fully cured yet. I was able to scratch them when I scribed to mark it to fit a little better on the top edge.
Once fully cured we'll see.
On the motor, I found the cerakote to be very durable. Nothing stuck to it. It didn't scratch when the hoist chain was rubbing against it, which might be a problem with the silicon on the panels to the rest of the body.

[Pmieras]

Front suspension goes on.

I checked the fit of the upper control arm ball joints during inventory and ran into the "not wanting to thread all the way in" issue some have ran across.
I ended up ordering Howe racing ball joints and they threaded in no problem. Caught it early so it didn't slow me down any.

I also had to shorted the one side of the upper control arm sleeve and rods to get enough adjustment for the initial alignment. Ended up using an angle grinder and file to clean things up.


https://youtu.be/DW2yGZG63zk

[Pmieras]

Front brakes go on.
Spend some time installing the safety wire and sorting that out.
It's been a really long time since I've had to use safety wire.

Really like the pop of red


https://youtu.be/eq-1EZES85k

Next thing to tackle is the rear brakes

[Pmieras]

Mentioned in the last post the rear brakes were next. That will be after the rear suspension goes in. Independent Rear Suspension not the Internal Revenue Service

Only issue at the time of recording was I was missing half of the mis-alignment bushings as part of the MIK list.
FFR got them out to me really quick though.


https://youtu.be/-G9Ymx59LOc

Now the rear brakes can go on...

[craig6990]

Can't wait for the next post! I am at the same point in my build. The videos are terrific!

Craig M

[Pmieras]

I just finished installing the shocks and happened to be lurking on the forum and ran across a thread about the adjustment for the rebound on the shocks.
This got me thinking... are mine setup right? What if one, or some of them are set at different settings?

Well, I dig into it just to make sure and for the peace of mind.
1 out of the 4 was setup at a different setting than the other 3. Drivers side rear was at "1" and all the others were at "0."
I don't think this is really a big deal, unless possibly in the front if one is setup different than the other. Maybe it can induce a bump steer or something else, I'm not sure.
Important thing is now they are all the same and not difficult to check and change if the occasion should present itself.

Found some good directions on the adjustment and went ahead and shot some video which I'll attach below.


https://youtu.be/6koeQjFlbvQ



KONI Documentation on the adjustment process
https://www.koni-na.com/en-US/NorthAmerica/Technology/Adjustment-Guides/

[Pmieras]

Can't wait for the next post! I am at the same point in my build. The videos are terrific!

Craig M

Thanks for the kind words. Glad they are helpful. Check your shocks if you got the KONI's before you install them. There's a rebound setting. See the info above.
I had to pull my shocks to check them.

[craig6990]

Checked mine before the install. I guess that is what comes from scouring the forum for info!!

[Pmieras]

Checked mine before the install. I guess that is what comes from scouring the forum for info!!

Absolutely... I'm constantly lurking to see if there's anything value added I can say to help someone with a question as well as getting ideas and tips from other builds.
I've built a folder full of reference pics of various little things people have documented in how they addressed something with their build.
I have folders for brake lines, steering, suspension, etc to make it easy to find.

[Pmieras]

Rear brakes go on. Lots of trial and error with the shims


https://youtu.be/E4WMqgEPB-o

Next up i think is the pedal assembly

[Pmieras]

Pedal Assembly goes in, minus the lines

The video's are a little behind from the actual build due to the time it takes to edit as I'm working on installing some of the panels now.
Have a problem I'm going to have to sort out with the throttle pedal. It basically interferes with the side of the firewall at the start of the transmission tunnel.

I think I need to swap the pedal to the other side of the mount... We'll see


https://youtu.be/IP2faEPccWE

[Pmieras]

Some of the steering components go on.
I opt to use the breeze offset bushings. A little confusion on the install, but I finally sort it out.
Should have read the directions more thoroughly. LOL

It's a tight fit but fits nice.


https://youtu.be/-b2D3duUqMk

[Ashaw65]

That is so cool. Thanks for posting.

[Pmieras]

I start on some of the early aluminum panels.
I'm planning to do the Forte Throttle linkage and noticed the FFR firewall is really flimsy.
I'm not sure if it matters or not, but I modify the firewall to add some thermal protection as well as some rigidity. We'll see how it hold up.


https://youtu.be/Wy-EUBqL1iE

[craig6990]

I agree that drilling the holes in the frame is a PIA! I bought the following on AMAZON to make the 1/8" drill bits disposable!
"Lounsweer Cobalt Drill Bits Double End Drill Bits for Hardened Steel Wood Cast Plastic High Speed Metal Stainless Steel Drill Bit(1/8 Inch, 30 Pcs)"
very in expensive for 30 reversable bits!
Just a thought.

Craig M

[Pmieras]

I agree that drilling the holes in the frame is a PIA! I bought the following on AMAZON to make the 1/8" drill bits disposable!
"Lounsweer Cobalt Drill Bits Double End Drill Bits for Hardened Steel Wood Cast Plastic High Speed Metal Stainless Steel Drill Bit(1/8 Inch, 30 Pcs)"
very in expensive for 30 reversable bits!
Just a thought.

Craig M

I hear that.
I bought a bunch of 1/8" bits off of amazon as well. Seemed cheaper and quicker in the long run that trying to sharpen the bits with a drill doctor or something similar.
30 pieces for about $20. Not the best bits, but they do the job.

[Pmieras]

Have to revisit the throttle pedal. Looked like it was going to hit the inboard firewall panel.

Also install a few more panels and perform surgery with an angle grinder with the removal of the FFR parking brake bracket in the tunnel.
Not going to run the manual FFR parking brake. Going to use something different... Eventually


https://youtu.be/cu7Ewlp5fDY

[Pmieras]

Fuel tank time and Kleiner Mod
Had a little help from my son and a transmission jack to make the install easy


https://youtu.be/BmKj0o9q0bI

[Pmieras]

Lines for the "Go Juice" go in.
A little bit of soft line... a little bit of hard line...


https://youtu.be/oiC4ggAbgpU

[Pmieras]

Starting to get ready for brake lines so I start with installing the reservoirs.
Some basic fabrication for a bracket and it goes in without any issues.

Moving right along and up to 18 episodes now.


https://youtu.be/YoAS1132yiA

[Pmieras]

Start of the front brake lines.
A little trial and error and they go in.
Add a line lock, cause why not. We'll say it can act as a parking brake for the front (Yeah that's what it's for). LOL



https://youtu.be/Yn3w1QWrX44

[Pmieras]

What next after the front brakes lines?

The rear brake lines of course...
Able to apply my learnings with the fronts so the rear lines went in quicker.


https://youtu.be/KB20R2AXOA8

[Pmieras]

The brakes, for the most part are completely done.
Front and rear reservoirs get plumbed and bled.

Did a modified bench bleed of the master cylinders with them installed on the pedal assembly. Went pretty well.

I would recommend a good flushing of the master cylinders just to make sure any debris is flushed out.


https://youtu.be/E1rpRul18uM

[Pmieras]

Main wire harness starts going in. Run into a few hiccups along the way on this one.

From plugs not fitting through the firewall to a brake and clutch switch issue. I sort it out though.


https://youtu.be/B5dFxD2mym0

[Pmieras]

Most of the trunk area panels go in on this episode.
I had to trim a couple of the panels but nothing major.

Enlarged a couple of holes on the upper truck panel to clear some of the welds which were keeping the panel from fully resting flat.


https://youtu.be/Tt9cKg6EUwo

[Pmieras]

Lot more drilling and a lot more rivets

Drop trunk fabrication


https://youtu.be/cbFZW_37WWM

[Pmieras]

It's been a while since posting an update to the build. Truth is it's been hot. Really hot.
And I've been doing some remodeling (re-did stairs, laundry room, etc)
And getting ready for archery season (built a new bow, tuning and sighting in)
And going to the lake....

Anyways. I was able to get some work done on changing the wheel color and getting tires mounted.

Turned out pretty good I think although there was some growing pains.

Will be working to get the motor off of the run stand in preparation for stuffing into the body.


https://youtu.be/w9pV3whvW0M

[Pmieras]

What has to happen before the motor can get installed into the chassis?
Well it has to come off the run stand.

Gotta start it up one last time first though. It's gonna be a bit before it will be ready to start up again.


https://youtu.be/p2c-PWGfpjk

[Pmieras]

First time installing a dual clutch for me.

Went together easy enough, just a lot of measuring


https://youtu.be/ZQR4AX6Via0

[Blitzboy54]

I really like the red pinstripes on the wheels. Nice touch.

[Mike.Bray]

Is the bottom flange on the bellhousing going to hang below the frame rails? I know most people trim the Quicktime units for clearance.

[Pmieras]

Is the bottom flange on the bellhousing going to hang below the frame rails? I know most people trim the Quicktime units for clearance.

I'm not sure.
I'll see what unforeseen issues I run into when I drop in the motor in the next week or so. I'm hoping I don't have to trim anything off.

If I have to trim it I don't think I can take too much off. There's only about 1.5" until I'm at the flywheel.

[Pmieras]

Wheels and tires go on in preparation for the engine to drop in.

For some reason I was thinking this would help with the engine install.


https://youtu.be/m-Ak5L_Hfus

[Mike.Bray]

I know adding those stripes to the wheels took a lot of time but they really set it off. Very nice.

I like the little details like that, to me these things set a great build apart from an average build.

[Pmieras]

I know adding those stripes to the wheels took a lot of time but they really set it off. Very nice.

I like the little details like that, to me these things set a great build apart from an average build.

Thank you sir. Kind words.
So far I like the stripes.

[Pmieras]

This is gonna the last vid for a bit. Going bow hunting next week and I need to shift my focus until I get back.

Motor goes in though and looks nice in the engine bay.

It does look like I may have to trim the bottom of the bell housing (Just the tab that has 2 bolts).
Doesn't look like it would be terribly difficult or take any substantial strength / protection from the bell housing.


https://youtu.be/w14Al_-Vb8k

[Pmieras]

It's been a while. Life happens but I think I've finally caught up to get back on the car...


https://youtu.be/yv2LAImKRQE

[Blitzboy54]

Hey,

FYI, it looks like you have the trunk gas strut kit. Before you get too far along there it mounts right through that cubby wall. You have a few different options including using a prop rod but if you want to put the struts on that came with the kit you will need to make pass through holes. I used shorter struts and mounted mine to the floor on my first build after making this very mistake.

Love the wheels. When done this car is going to be a looker.

[Pmieras]

Hey,

FYI, it looks like you have the trunk gas strut kit. Before you get too far along there it mounts right through that cubby wall. You have a few different options including using a prop rod but if you want to put the struts on that came with the kit you will need to make pass through holes. I used shorter struts and mounted mine to the floor on my first build after making this very mistake.

Love the wheels. When done this car is going to be a looker.


Thanks for that comment and great tip. Didn't even cross my mind about the struts. Guess I haven't looked that far ahead. Lol.

[Pmieras]

Install of the replacement shaft seal, driveshaft and safety hoop. A little difficulty filming this one. Got a really short tripod / camera stand on the way.

Thanks for the feedback, suggestions, tips. I really appreciate it. It's what makes the community so great. Lots of good info.


https://youtu.be/2ffP9JKtUEY

[Pmieras]

Slowly but surely... Getting a little scattered in the build right now. Work a little here till I get to a point where I need or waiting on something so then I'll work on something else.

Radiator, shroud, battery tray and an update from Factory Five for the steering rack go in.


https://youtu.be/ZZp7cBf67uM

[lonestar]

Great build write up - big thanks, Paul! Very informative video content without a bunch of "fluff" like in some other build threads.
Quick questions:
1. Since I'm planning to PC my aluminum panels (which takes time) and don't want to just sit and do nothing, what else I can start to bolt on without aluminum panels installation dependency? Thinking of the rear suspension...
2. Why everyone here insists on having the aluminum panels pre-drilled and installed before the PC? I may be missing something, but it doesn't make much sense to me doing this all prior to PC when the pre-drilled holes will anyways become a bit smaller because of the PC layer on top of bare metal.

[egchewy79]

Drilling panels after PC will likely cause it to chip and look unsightly. I'm guessing that's why most will PC after drilling. You may need to open the PC'd holes up a bit w/ a drill bit but overall safer than trying to drill through the PC w/o chipping it.

[danmas]

Slowly but surely... Getting a little scattered in the build right now. Work a little here till I get to a point where I need or waiting on something so then I'll work on something else.

Radiator, shroud, battery tray and an update from Factory Five for the steering rack go in.


https://youtu.be/ZZp7cBf67uM
Pretty much did exactly this today. It’s pretty satisfying to see things come together. I used the breeze lower radiator mount kit, but honestly a couple of slotted brackets, some tubing and a metal bar will work just fine. Nice video…

[edwardb]

...Why everyone here insists on having the aluminum panels pre-drilled and installed before the PC? I may be missing something, but it doesn't make much sense to me doing this all prior to PC when the pre-drilled holes will anyways become a bit smaller because of the PC layer on top of bare metal.

Don't know if "insists" is the right word. Suggests is maybe a better one? Do it however you want. But reasons in my experience are: (1) Not unusual to have to tweak bends for the best fit. (2) A little more rare, but sometimes have to trim pieces a bit for the best fit. While PC might stand up to that, good chance of damaging while sorting everything out. (3) Common to mark pieces where the frame locations are, lay out the hole patterns, etc. so you know where to drill. Easy on bare aluminum, not so much on PC'd aluminum. (4) Just overall handling is reduced if they're ready to install after PC. Again, for less possible damage. Yes, the holes might be slightly undersized after PC. Takes very little time for each piece to run the holes through with the proper size drill bit.

[Pmieras]

Great build write up - big thanks, Paul! Very informative video content without a bunch of "fluff" like in some other build threads.
Quick questions:
1. Since I'm planning to PC my aluminum panels (which takes time) and don't want to just sit and do nothing, what else I can start to bolt on without aluminum panels installation dependency? Thinking of the rear suspension...
2. Why everyone here insists on having the aluminum panels pre-drilled and installed before the PC? I may be missing something, but it doesn't make much sense to me doing this all prior to PC when the pre-drilled holes will anyways become a bit smaller because of the PC layer on top of bare metal.

I'm at the point where I'm kind of jumping around. Been thumbing through the build manual multiple times to try to avoid undoing something major because I did it at the wrong time. I'm sure I'm not going to be able to predict everything. Just trying to be smart about it.

[Pmieras]

Pretty much did exactly this today. It’s pretty satisfying to see things come together. I used the breeze lower radiator mount kit, but honestly a couple of slotted brackets, some tubing and a metal bar will work just fine. Nice video…

Agreed. I did the breeze bracket for the ease of it. Cost would have been negligible me doing it myself.

[Pmieras]

Drilling panels after PC will likely cause it to chip and look unsightly. I'm guessing that's why most will PC after drilling. You may need to open the PC'd holes up a bit w/ a drill bit but overall safer than trying to drill through the PC w/o chipping it.

I can see that. You might be able to minimize chipping by using a sharp bit all the time, go slow and be careful?

My frame is powder coated and haven't had much issues but then again, those holes get covered with a panel.

[Pmieras]

I noticed during my cerakoting process, due to sand blasting the parts, I've been warping the large pieces of aluminum (I have a video that showed that).

Wasn't expecting that, but in my case seemed by ok. On the prices that I sand blast on both sides, the panel flattens back out. On the single sided pieces, I bent them back into shape over my knee.

I'm not to familiar with PC so I can't speak for sure if there is any type of sand blasting involved as well.
The buy that did my wheels sand blasted to remove the original finish prior to coating them.

[Pmieras]

Slight error on my part, but not a huge deal. Had to take the fan shroud back off to mount the fan. Realized it as soon as I laid the fan on the shroud. You live and you learn.


https://youtu.be/nB6hdQmlU2k

[Mike.Bray]

I noticed during my cerakoting process, due to sand blasting the parts, I've been warping the large pieces of aluminum (I have a video that showed that).

Wasn't expecting that, but in my case seemed by ok. On the prices that I sand blast on both sides, the panel flattens back out. On the single sided pieces, I bent them back into shape over my knee.

I'm not to familiar with PC so I can't speak for sure if there is any type of sand blasting involved as well.
The buy that did my wheels sand blasted to remove the original finish prior to coating them.

I hope you're not actually sand blasting and are plastic bead blasting instead. Sand is too harsh and not good for anything outside of industrial structural steel pieces. And ships. And bridges.

Blasting a thin piece of metal can have the effect of shrinking the surface causing it to bow or warp. There's actually a science where the technique is used to form metal into a specific and complex shape. But don't look at me, I'm not nearly smart enough to do that.



Mike

[Pmieras]

I hope you're not actually sand blasting and are plastic bead blasting instead. Sand is too harsh and not good for anything outside of industrial structural steel pieces. And ships. And bridges.

Blasting a thin piece of metal can have the effect of shrinking the surface causing it to bow or warp. There's actually a science where the technique is used to form metal into a specific and complex shape. But don't look at me, I'm not nearly smart enough to do that.



Mike

Thanks for the heads up...

If I remember right I'm using a 70g Aluminum oxide from Harbor Freight. The surface roughness it leaves is needed for good adhesion with the Cerakote.
On the large panels I am getting some warping / bowing but so far it's been minimal and I'm able to straighten the piece back out.
Nothing significant enough to have caused an issue so far (knock on wood).

I've been able to minimize the warping by staying farther away from the work surface. Still warps a little, but the affect is reduce.

The Cerakote sticks really well once fully cured and is quite durable. I've hit it with slips of the screw drive and such and it so far takes it without blemish.

[Pmieras]

ICT brackets go on to put the alternator and power steering pump in their permanent home.


https://youtu.be/s8Imif9uy-Q

[TrackDay17]

Nice looking work, I really dig the wheels as it's basically what I have planned for my build.
I wondered what the red stripe would look like on the inboard lip as opposed to the outer.
I like the outer stripe like you've done.
are you going to use the knockoffs or leave them off ?
I'm planning on leaving the spinners polished on my upcoming build.

[Pmieras]

Nice looking work, I really dig the wheels as it's basically what I have planned for my build.
I wondered what the red stripe would look like on the inboard lip as opposed to the outer.
I like the outer stripe like you've done.
are you going to use the knockoffs or leave them off ?
I'm planning on leaving the spinners polished on my upcoming build.

Thanks for the kind words.
I'm happy with the stripe, took a few tries to get it right in my case.
I'm gonna use the knock offs. Haven't decided if I'm going to do flat or gloss black, or bronze. Still kicking that idea around in the old melon.

[Pmieras]

Rough in the power steering lines and drop in the belt.


https://youtu.be/a_7ehsaX3fM

[Pmieras]

Install of the drivers side header while working out the cooling lines and fuel lines


https://youtu.be/1pDkoMkof4Q

[cv2065]

Love the videos! Just a suggestion. Header studs instead of bolts make the job a lot easier, especially on the driver’s side. They also save your header bolt threads from getting possibly stripped out.

[Mike.Bray]

I'll second the header studs and raise you Remflex gaskets.

[Pmieras]

Love the videos! Just a suggestion. Header studs instead of bolts make the job a lot easier, especially on the driver’s side. They also save your header bolt threads from getting possibly stripped out.

That's a great idea. I'm definitely going to look into that and the Remflex gaskets.

[Pmieras]

I'll second the header studs and raise you Remflex gaskets.

I love the suggestions I'm getting from the forum. I just researched the studs and Remflex gaskets and pulled the trigger.
I'm going to probably continue to use the gaskets the kit came with and use them during the build / mock up and change them out towards the end since I'm sure the headers are going to go on and off a couple times.

[Pmieras]

Working on getting the heater core installed and run into a problem I need to sort out.

I think I have a solution I'm going to do by modifying the heater core inlet / outlet. That will come out in a later video.


https://youtu.be/8ZPDSI_Jm5s

[Mike.Bray]

You might be able to cut the copper tubes and fit these AN adapters. https://www.holley.com/products/plumbing_an_fittings_and_hose/hardline/compression_adapters/parts/AT165010ERL

From there use a 90 degree AN hose fitting and maybe some hose like this or something similar. https://www.holley.com/products/plumbing_an_fittings_and_hose/ultra_flex/ultra_flex_hose/parts/650010ERL

A heater in San Diego? That's interesting:)

[flyboyjy]

Same problem I had as well as others on here that installed the heater and using a 351 Windsor block. Throw the template in the trash and make your own. Do pay attention to where the wiper motor goes and the heater needs to be as low on the firewall as possible. I cut the tubes off and made a bead in the end using an Earls Performance EZ tubing beader that I got from Summit Racing. I think it was this one Part Number: EAR-010ERL. For a 5/8 tube.

214936214935214937214938214939

Heater template:214940214941

[Pmieras]

Same problem I had as well as others on here that installed the heater and using a 351 Windsor block. Throw the template in the trash and make your own. Do pay attention to where the wiper motor goes and the heater needs to be as low on the firewall as possible. I cut the tubes off and made a bead in the end using an Earls Performance EZ tubing beader that I got from Summit Racing. I think it was this one Part Number: EAR-010ERL. For a 5/8 tube.


Interesting. That might work.

[Pmieras]

A heater in San Diego? That's interesting:)

Not in San Diego but San Tan Valley, AZ. Definitely won't need it in the summer time. ;)
But some drives during the fall or early spring would be nice to have heat.

[Mike.Bray]

Not in San Diego but San Tan Valley, AZ. Definitely won't need it in the summer time. ;)
But some drives during the fall or early spring would be nice to have heat.

I debated a heater for a long time and even ordered it with the kit. In the end I didn't want all of the headache of installing it and everything that goes with it so I just did the heated seats. The seats are surprisingly effective and so far they're all we've needed.

[JMD]

Great videos, really enjoying them and appreciate the amount of work it takes to shoot, edit, and upload them. Maybe it's easier than the paragraphs of text and pics that I did in my build thread, but either way I appreciate being able to see the story of the build.

Love the 'valve covers' over the coil packs. Nice touch for the engine bay. Keep it up!

[Pmieras]

Great videos, really enjoying them and appreciate the amount of work it takes to shoot, edit, and upload them. Maybe it's easier than the paragraphs of text and pics that I did in my build thread, but either way I appreciate being able to see the story of the build.

Love the 'valve covers' over the coil packs. Nice touch for the engine bay. Keep it up!

Thanks. I'm having fun with the build. Really enjoying the process and working out the problems. The video process does take some time. I've gotten quicker at editing. Funny thing is that one of the videos showed me a bolt I didn't tighten on the power steering pump. As soon as I saw it I ran out there and took care of it quick.

[Pmieras]

While I'm sorting out the other issues, figured I would work on the fuel lines.


https://youtu.be/hcPKe7oz4Do

[Pmieras]

My solution to my heater core problem...


https://youtu.be/N0pl50_7xkk

[achi]

Great videos, watching them all and following the build. With the last cut for the heater you could consider adding the dash support tubes like the originals.

[Blitzboy54]

Honestly that dash supported solves a few potential problems. I like it better than the stock setup.


Nice work.

[Pmieras]

Great videos, watching them all and following the build. With the last cut for the heater you could consider adding the dash support tubes like the originals.

Are those the tubes that run from the dash to the transmission tunnel? I might be doing something like that when I get further along with the dash install.

[achi]

Are those the tubes that run from the dash to the transmission tunnel? I might be doing something like that when I get further along with the dash install.

Yes,exactly. I know F5 was selling a faux set of supports that I belive attached to the bottom of the aluminum dash, and since you are there and you definitely have great fabricating skills thought you might consider that as well. Great work!!!

[Pmieras]

Yes,exactly. I know F5 was selling a faux set of supports that I belive attached to the bottom of the aluminum dash, and since you are there and you definitely have great fabricating skills thought you might consider that as well. Great work!!!

I'll probably come up with something once I get to the dash going in. Have several things in mind that I'm sure I'll end up overthinking... LOL

[Justin]

If the heater core leaks or something in the future... You can un-solder the fittings. Just fire up the fitting wit a good MAP gas torch. MAP is hot so you can heat the fitting quickly to remove the joint. Then hit the copper with a wet rag so the heat doesn't melt anything down the line. I've done it many times when I worked HVAC back in the day. Just in case you have to take it apart down the road for some reason.

[Pmieras]

Forte Throttle linkage goes in.


https://youtu.be/xvcVcmLiNYc

[cv2065]

Much of what you are doing hasn't been documented on video before for future builders and in certain ones, I can feel your pain. :p Great job!

[Pmieras]

Much of what you are doing hasn't been documented on video before for future builders and in certain ones, I can feel your pain. :p Great job!

It's been fun working out the problems. Trying to make it work and look nice.

[JMD]

It's a nice linkage, but takes a lot of brain power to get all the geometry right, in my experience. I also used a self tapping sheet metal screw instead of the roll pin. I wasn't convinced the roll pin would stay. Love the end result, but it's a hell of a lot more work than a throttle cable! Good video.

[Pmieras]

It's a nice linkage, but takes a lot of brain power to get all the geometry right, in my experience. I also used a self tapping sheet metal screw instead of the roll pin. I wasn't convinced the roll pin would stay. Love the end result, but it's a hell of a lot more work than a throttle cable! Good video.

Lot more figuring out than I thought it was going to be. But I still like the look. Still happy with it.
Good idea with the screws. I undersized the hole for the role pins so they're in there pretty good. I'll probably check the tension on the roll pins once I'm able to put some heat in the engine bay to see if they're still tight but will definitely keep the screws in the back of my mind.

[Pmieras]

All the radiator lines go in


https://youtu.be/mAWoaNQ4tl0

[Nicole Smith]

You're Mk4 is coming along! Can't wait to see more. This is such a great build thread with the videos!

[Mike.Bray]

I like the mesh sleeving over the hoses, looks nice. You might look at the Powergrip clamps that shrink on to make a clamp. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all30257

I'm running them and they work great.

215844

[Pmieras]

I like the mesh sleeving over the hoses, looks nice. You might look at the Powergrip clamps that shrink on to make a clamp. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all30257

I'm running them and they work great.

215844

I've heard about those. I thought about it and might make a switch to them. With all the on and off trying to get this aligned I guess I forgot about them.

[Pmieras]

Install an E-Stopp parking brake


https://youtu.be/PRtToAQEvHg

[Pmieras]

Trying to wrap up a couple of small things in preparation for the daunting task coming up...


https://youtu.be/V8sYx2cvNE0

[Pmieras]

Got talked into it. Change out the header bolts for studs.


https://youtu.be/zqpMFp7epcs

[Mike.Bray]

Nice! I love studs, probably because I am one;) I use studs in both my day job designing equipment and my hobby stuff, so many advantages to them. Especially when going into a soft material like aluminum heads. And studs makes assembly soooo much easier as you saw.

Are those Remflex gaskets?

I do want to know how you applied that anti-seize without ending up looking like this.

216718

Tip of the day for you, get rid of those nuts you're using on the ball socket flanges and use brass nuts like these. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IZ49HC?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title they won't loosen up on you but you can still get them off if you need to.

I paired them with these bolts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CFS6NG?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

[Pmieras]

Are those Remflex gaskets?

I do want to know how you applied that anti-seize without ending up looking like this.

Tip of the day for you, get rid of those nuts you're using on the ball socket flanges and use brass nuts like these. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IZ49HC?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title they won't loosen up on you but you can still get them off if you need to.

I paired them with these bolts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CFS6NG?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Yes. Remflex gaskets. I'll see how they hold up.

The anti-seize does get everywhere. Lol. I do a lot of wiping the brush against the inner edge of the can before application and constantly clean the lid. Not sure if it helps much, but that's my process.

The bolts I have on the ball flanges are not the one's I'm going to use. Using them for now just cause they go together really well by hand since it will probably come on and off multiple times.
I have given thought to the brass and will probably use them. Thanks for the tip.

[Pmieras]

Seat and steering wheel go in so I can start mocking up other stuff... and make car noises as I pretend to drive it.


https://youtu.be/hTr8H_fBEBA

[Pmieras]

Shifter goes in.

Seems to fit me nice. I like where it ended up landing.
Very short throw which I like so far.


https://youtu.be/GBYrlkqHFKg

[Pmieras]

The start of the electrical work is in full swing. Starting with the easy stuff for the engine management side of things.


https://youtu.be/D0FVypQAAoA

[Pmieras]

More wiring stuff. ECU finds it's home.


https://youtu.be/HD6kyRYXnoA