Tools needed to built MKIV

[new-world-samuari]

Hello
I will (hopefully) be building a roaster in the next 2-3 years. I am going to use that time to start buying some parts as well as tools I don't already have.
I'm wondering if anyone can recommend tools that made their builds that much easier or tools they whish they had. And maybe even which brands you recommend.

I have the basics, sockets, screw drivers, open end and box wrenches etc

First thing I know I need is a torque wrench, I currently don't own one, but wondering how high of a torque value is needed. Is a 250 in-lbs tool needed, is that high enough?

I'm planning on buying a rivet gun, clecos and split ring pliers. Any other recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

thanks for your time and for reading my post.

[Bob Cowan]

You don't really need any specialty tools. Jut standard tools that most people have.

You will need to make small adjustments in fit here and there. Get some sheet metal shears, and a couple of files. A hacksaw would be helpful here and there.

Floor jack, jack stands.

Some measuring tools: Length and angle.

Sometimes you will want to make threads in a hole, or clean up some threads on a fastener. A basic tap and die set is really usefull.

You'll be drilling a lot of holes, especially #30 or 1/8". Either buy a big pack of drill bits, or a drill bit sharpener. And some cutting oil.

You will be making fuel and brake lines. You'll need a tubing cutter, bender, and flaring tool.

When you buy tools, buy good ones. Cheap tools will produce cheap results. And you don't want to be hassling with cheap results.

[mrglaeser]

Hello
I will (hopefully) be building a roaster in the next 2-3 years. I am going to use that time to start buying some parts as well as tools I don't already have.
I'm wondering if anyone can recommend tools that made their builds that much easier or tools they whish they had. And maybe even which brands you recommend.

I have the basics, sockets, screw drivers, open end and box wrenches etc

First thing I know I need is a torque wrench, I currently don't own one, but wondering how high of a torque value is needed. Is a 250 in-lbs tool needed, is that high enough?

I'm planning on buying a rivet gun, clecos and split ring pliers. Any other recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

thanks for your time and for reading my post.

1.) The most used tool I have and suggest is a good rotary tool. This one I think is a must. I use cutting disks to trim aluminum a lot and some grinding stone to smooth sharp edges.
2.) The most fun tool and my personal favorite is my Milwaukee power Rivet tool. I have the hand one as well, but when you are doing a lot of panels in one day it's nice to have power.
3.) If you plan on modifying sheet metal a metal brake would be good with a good pair of snips (though I used a jigsaw with metal blades to great affect). I used a harbor freight one to build a drop trunk. If you are just going to go with the basic construction you can skip this.
4.) I've also used a lot of Rivnuts so I can remove some panels like the fuel pump access, fuel sender access, footbox, etc. So a tool to crimp these is a nice to have.
5.) Yes by the way on a torque wrench. Only the Hubs need you to go over 200lbs. But I actually ended up with 3. An inch pound wrench because I rebuilt the rear end and needed to check the preload on the pinion, a 5-90 lb craftman one I've had for 30 years, and a 50-250 lb one. But I think you can also rent them so the most useful option would be something from like 20-150lb. Then borrow or rent the big one the one time you need it. It kind of depends on budget.
6.) Wiring tools. side cutters, crimpers, strippers, heat gun, and possibly soldering iron if you want to get that fancy
7.) Brake line flaring tool. This is a good place to splurge. The $12-$30 will give you the most frustration ever. I like this style https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/titan/titan-double-flaring-tool/ttn0/51535?q=Brake+Flare+tool&pos=5. But you might need a couple of sizes at which point you could get something really nice.
8.) Brake line bending tools
9.) Flare nut wrenches
10.) However many clecos you are planning on I suggest doubling it and make sure you have both sizes
11.) A tap and die set comes in handy if you want to use small bolts to attach things to your frame. IE cushion clamps for Fuel and Brake lines
12.) Dead blow hammer is cheap and good to have around
13.) A couple size mallets are also good to have
14.) Lots of clamps in many shapes (especially if you are going to shape metal)
15.) A good drill and spend the money for nice drill bits. This is actually the tool you will use the most so get something you don't mind holding for hours. I find a good bit that cost twice as much lasts 3 times as long or better.
16.) A good shop-vac. You are going to make a lot of messes. The more power the better on this one.
17.) A large pile of sharpies
18.) A good straight edge

If you are going to get into the more mechanical stuff like rebuilding/assembling a motor or rear end let us know that is a whole other list of tools.

I bought a lot of other things but I think the above list covers the additional tools I get value out of. I have a few others that I tried a couple times and now sit on the shelf. Like a power nibbler. That thing makes a mess of thin aluminum. Maybe we should also say what doesn't help to own.

[Alan_C]

If you are a do it yourselfer, then you have most of the tools you will need.
For torque wrenches, you will need two, a 1/4" drive for light duty stuff like you showed and then a 1/2" drive for the bigger stuff likely up to 120 ft. lbs or so.
A good flair tool like the Eastwood is highly recommended. A good tubing cutter and reamer will help when making brake lines.
If doing fuel and PS lines with SS braided line, then get one of these cable cutters to cut the stuff. https://www.harborfreight.com/10-in-cable-cutters-63827.html
I have used several different methods to cut the braided line, these cable cutters did the best job without damaging them. When I bought these cable cutters, they had a lifetime warranty but not sure if they still do. No matter, they will last through the complete build.
You are going to need a good cordless drill motor light those from DeWalt. They might still be on the post Christmas sales now, if so buy one of the kits with the drill motor, 2 batteries, and charger. The 20V drills are so much better than the older 18V models so don't cheap out and get the 20V. I found that I needed one of the close quarters 90 drill motors too. If you buy DeWalt for the 90 degree drill motor, then you can share the batteries and charger saving bucks.
Most tasks can be done with simple tools. As mentioned, #30 drill bits are a little bit larger than the 1/8" making assembly easier. When riveting the aluminum panels on, you may find a pneumatic riveter is worth the investment. For me it was they save a lot of time and setting the larger 3/16" rivets can sometimes be a challenge without more power.
You will need center punches. The spring loaded type is great for the aluminum and thin wall steel tubing. A sharp HD punch will help on the thicker areas like the main frame 4" round tubes. Add a good hammer as well.
Buy a SAE tap set, you won't need to small and large sizes, but the sizes 1/8" to 1/2" will get used frequently. I liked to tap where the metal of thick enough rather than use rivnuts. A good rivnut setting tool set will get used for putting threaded inserts into the light weight square tubing.
Good metal cutting tools are needed. If you have a band saw with a metal cutting blade, that would be ideal. I got away with using a hack saw as well as a Sawzall at times
You are going to need a solid bench to do much of you assembly work on. The bench needs to be made from heavy materials so that you can add a vise, the larger the better. A 5 inch would be minimum with a 6 inch better.
Since you are a few years out, make up a list of tools with top brands and look for sales. There are many sales from July through the end the year. The big ones are Memorial Day, Labor Day, Black Friday and Cyber Monday. Sales at Christmas are not so good as retailers bet on you being more emotional and prone to buying for need rather than price.
Decide how you are going to finish the aluminum panels, some protective coatings, like Sharkhide, can be easily applied at home. If you want powder coating, that requires a specialist to get done. Paint is not recommended as, once the car is assembled, repainting a panel may be near impossible.
Not really tools, but HD storage racks for the garage can help with organizing and storing all the parts boxes you will get. Plus they make more efficient use of space as you get to use vertical as well and the normal floor space. Don't buy expensive parts too soon like tire/wheel packages, engines, transmissions, etc. If you buy too soon, they just take up valuable space. If you find exactly what you want and on sale, then by all means buy the stuff.
All the tools in the world won't get the car done unless you believe you can build the car. I highly recommend you take Build School. Not only a good time and introduction to the MK4, but they also share a lot of tips and tricks you will find valuable once you are building the car. I would recommend you take the build school soon and it will show you exactly what tools are needed. At build school, you will assemble a MK4 from chassis to a running and driving car. They have a number of sub-assemblies prepared and ready to go to save time, but you see the entire build process. I went and for someone that has not done something like this before, invaluable.

[edwardb]

If you haven't already, download the build manual from the Factory Five parts website. Best $10 you'll spend. In addition to learning about assembling the car, it has a list of recommended tools. They are for basic assembly. A lot depends on how much customizing you are planning.

[F500guy]

All good responses, so I will just add a couple items. I was able to use a portable jig saw with big teeth blade to cut some of the aluminum for brackets, it worked good on the sheet metal as long as it is well supported. I also used an electric sheet metal shear for some of the aluminum work, just the harbor freight version and a belt sander to straighten edges and round corners. I also bought a rolling work bench from Harbor freight, got it on sale it has a storage rack underneath, is about 40 inches long and a couple drawers, I have found it to be very useful for storing a lot of tools and supplies during the build and can give a nice work top. Best of all, I can move it around the garage if I need room for things other than the car project.

[Mike.Bray]

This might help.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?46787-Which-Additional-Tools-Would-You-Recommend

[BRRT]

If you haven't already, download the build manual from the Factory Five parts website. Best $10 you'll spend. In addition to learning about assembling the car, it has a list of recommended tools. They are for basic assembly. A lot depends on how much customizing you are planning.

Paul is spot-on. The farther you get from a "standard" by-the-book build the more fabrication you will need to do. Even a standard build requires some.

Having a digital multimeter and knowing how to read it will be very valuable when it comes time to wire the car.

[gbranham]

Don't underestimate the cost of all the tools you'll undoubtedly buy during the build. If you buy quality tools, there are many opportunities to spend $100 or even $200 on a tool that you'll use once in the build, but will make life so much easier. Eastwoods Pro tubing bender and double-flare kit is one that comes to mind. Anything else is just a waste of money.

If building your engine, you'll need an engine hoist and engine stand. If doing bodywork and paint, you'll spend a few thousand for quality tools and a gun. Oh, and another $600-$1000 for a compressor that is big enough to shoot it.

I have thousands of dollars in tools I've purchased for my MkIV build, and I already spent thousands 20 years ago when I built my MkIII. Yes, a basic set of mechanic's tools will get most of it, but the niche tools really add up if you do it right.

Also, whatever you think your budget is for this project, add 50% to it. You can thank me later. :)

[new-world-samuari]

WOW!!
thanks everyone I truly appreciate the time everyone took to answer my question
A lot of good stuff and things I never thought of.
I'm planning on buying a built engine and trans from blueprint and buying the rear end from FFR so I hope I won't need to take any of that apart. thanks for the tool list offer mrglaeser

definitely going to order the assembly manual now makes sense.

thanks again

[dbo_texas]

I'd recommend a good set of stepped drill-bits for cutting holes of various sizes. I had never really used those before, and I would say I use that set probably more than any other tool besides the cordless drill itself. For my build, I set the frame on some jack stands and found that to be very easy vs. building a frame dolly. I haven't felt the need to move the frame around on wheels, so the stationary jack stands worked fine for me. I also second having a metric & SAE tap & die set - I've used it quite a bit actually. Lot's of items I preferred to mount with screws vs. rivets.

Before you buy any specialty tools, consider that many of them you may only use once during the build. A better option would be to rent one from a auto supply store (AutoZone, O'Reilly's, etc) - most of the time they loan them for free. Or post on your neighborhood Facebook page and see if any neighbors have what you are looking for. I've been surprised quite a few times with neighbors that had what I needed and I made some new friends along the way.

[new-world-samuari]

If you are a do it yourselfer, then you have most of the tools you will need.
For torque wrenches, you will need two, a 1/4" drive for light duty stuff like you showed and then a 1/2" drive for the bigger stuff likely up to 120 ft. lbs or so.
A good flair tool like the Eastwood is highly recommended. A good tubing cutter and reamer will help when making brake lines.
If doing fuel and PS lines with SS braided line, then get one of these cable cutters to cut the stuff. https://www.harborfreight.com/10-in-cable-cutters-63827.html
I have used several different methods to cut the braided line, these cable cutters did the best job without damaging them. When I bought these cable cutters, they had a lifetime warranty but not sure if they still do. No matter, they will last through the complete build.
You are going to need a good cordless drill motor light those from DeWalt. They might still be on the post Christmas sales now, if so buy one of the kits with the drill motor, 2 batteries, and charger. The 20V drills are so much better than the older 18V models so don't cheap out and get the 20V. I found that I needed one of the close quarters 90 drill motors too. If you buy DeWalt for the 90 degree drill motor, then you can share the batteries and charger saving bucks.
Most tasks can be done with simple tools. As mentioned, #30 drill bits are a little bit larger than the 1/8" making assembly easier. When riveting the aluminum panels on, you may find a pneumatic riveter is worth the investment. For me it was they save a lot of time and setting the larger 3/16" rivets can sometimes be a challenge without more power.
You will need center punches. The spring loaded type is great for the aluminum and thin wall steel tubing. A sharp HD punch will help on the thicker areas like the main frame 4" round tubes. Add a good hammer as well.
Buy a SAE tap set, you won't need to small and large sizes, but the sizes 1/8" to 1/2" will get used frequently. I liked to tap where the metal of thick enough rather than use rivnuts. A good rivnut setting tool set will get used for putting threaded inserts into the light weight square tubing.
Good metal cutting tools are needed. If you have a band saw with a metal cutting blade, that would be ideal. I got away with using a hack saw as well as a Sawzall at times
You are going to need a solid bench to do much of you assembly work on. The bench needs to be made from heavy materials so that you can add a vise, the larger the better. A 5 inch would be minimum with a 6 inch better.
Since you are a few years out, make up a list of tools with top brands and look for sales. There are many sales from July through the end the year. The big ones are Memorial Day, Labor Day, Black Friday and Cyber Monday. Sales at Christmas are not so good as retailers bet on you being more emotional and prone to buying for need rather than price.
Decide how you are going to finish the aluminum panels, some protective coatings, like Sharkhide, can be easily applied at home. If you want powder coating, that requires a specialist to get done. Paint is not recommended as, once the car is assembled, repainting a panel may be near impossible.
Not really tools, but HD storage racks for the garage can help with organizing and storing all the parts boxes you will get. Plus they make more efficient use of space as you get to use vertical as well and the normal floor space. Don't buy expensive parts too soon like tire/wheel packages, engines, transmissions, etc. If you buy too soon, they just take up valuable space. If you find exactly what you want and on sale, then by all means buy the stuff.
All the tools in the world won't get the car done unless you believe you can build the car. I highly recommend you take Build School. Not only a good time and introduction to the MK4, but they also share a lot of tips and tricks you will find valuable once you are building the car. I would recommend you take the build school soon and it will show you exactly what tools are needed. At build school, you will assemble a MK4 from chassis to a running and driving car. They have a number of sub-assemblies prepared and ready to go to save time, but you see the entire build process. I went and for someone that has not done something like this before, invaluable.

Alan thanks. i was planning on going to build school. I didn't want to go too early so i don't forget things. When would you recommend going?

[toadster]

here's the list that I put together, still more that I got above and beyond... geesh! Never thought I'd have this many tools!!!

https://cobradreams.com/2019/07/29/items-that-ill-most-likely-need-in-my-garage/

[toadster]

Alan thanks. i was planning on going to build school. I didn't want to go too early so i don't forget things. When would you recommend going?

also highly recommend the school, IMHO it's worth it, and my son and I had a blast during the trip!

https://cobradreams.com/2019/08/15/factory-five-build-school-my-son-and-i-had-a-blast/

[OSU Cowboy]

Hey - it's a "kit". All you need is a Phillips head screwdriver and a ball peen hammer.

[OSU Cowboy]

Being facetious to the extreme. It gets to me a little bit when someone asks me if it was a "kit". My reply is that it sure didn't feel like a "kit" when I was building it, and that I like to think of it as a "replica". Great advice above ... I can't add to it. I can provide an endorsement for Build School. I attended in Aug 2008 prior to Stewart delivering from FFR in Sep 2008.

[JohnK]

Welcome to the forum! I remember the excitement and anticipation of planning a future build. Enjoy it.

I mean this as a purely constructive comment, and not as the typical snarky "search the forum - it's been answered" type of response, but learning how to effectively search this forum will be one of the best tools you have. The built-in search function is (IMO) next to useless. I like to use Google to search the forum. It's easy to do and gets far better search results. Just type in whatever you want to search on, followed by "site:thefactoryfiveforum.com". If you search on the phrase "what tools do I need" followed by that search string, you'll find a wealth of information. Also, spend a LOT of time reading other peoples' build threads. They will save you a LOT of heartache and frustration. The FFR manual is great but it's not perfect.

[gbranham]

Also, see if you can find other builders in your area to go see their project, and maybe lend a hand. They're almost always willing to enthusiastically share their ideas, and tools...

[Tbev]

All great advice above. I always thought my Dremel tool was a toy that had little use until I started building my roadster. I still can't believe how many times that thing ended up being the tool that got the job done.

[dbo_texas]

Welcome to the forum! I remember the excitement and anticipation of planning a future build. Enjoy it.

I mean this as a purely constructive comment, and not as the typical snarky "search the forum - it's been answered" type of response, but learning how to effectively search this forum will be one of the best tools you have. The built-in search function is (IMO) next to useless. I like to use Google to search the forum. It's easy to do and gets far better search results. Just type in whatever you want to search on, followed by "site:thefactoryfiveforum.com". If you search on the phrase "what tools do I need" followed by that search string, you'll find a wealth of information. Also, spend a LOT of time reading other peoples' build threads. They will save you a LOT of heartache and frustration. The FFR manual is great but it's not perfect.

The best search syntax in Google is to use this format, "site:http://thefactoryfiveforum.com /xxxxx" without the quotes, and replace "xxxxx" with whatever you are searching for (learned this trick from edwardb). For example, to search for what tools to use, type this into Google search:

site:http://thefactoryfiveforum.com /tool list

[Alan_C]

I went to build school in May of 2011, bought my donor 2004 Mach 1 Mustang in September with the kit arriving just before Christmas. I liked the timing of each step. Now most don't use donors any more as they are too old and generally speaking use old tech. Buying the donor a few months ahead of delivery gave me time to remove all the parts and wiring I wanted and send the rest to the crusher. Regarding build school, just take notes and plenty of pictures to back up our native memory. You will have a good time. My suggestion is to take build school at a time when the session is not over loaded. We had like 17 people in our class, 7 too many for good hands on. The was one guy there, the one with most experience, who dominated time on the car. IMO, the instructors should have stepped in and told him to spread the wealth, but they didn't. I often waited for breaks or lunch to take my pictures as otherwise you got too many pictures of the guys standing around or working on the car.

[Stangarang]

I learned the hard way on this one. If you are using Wilwood brakes, you definately need a 1/4" inch/pound torque wrench. I had to buy a new rear rotor hat when I snapped the bolt off and ruined it trying to drill out the broken bolt. The spec called for 115 inch/pounds, and I tried to use a large torque wrench on 11 pounds. Definately don't be afraid to take the time to do it right.
Michael

[JCB52]

Didn’t see anyone recommending a Hole Punch. I used the 1/8” a lot around the edges of the aluminum panels.

[Papa]

The best tool you'll need is the one between your ears. Building one of these cars is just building a bunch of small systems one at a time. Get a manual and read it through a couple of times before you start assembling anything. To avoid possible issues, you have to be able to think a couple of steps ahead. Understanding what those future steps are will help you avoid making mistakes that you have to go back and correct. Also, think about how you will replace a part once the car is done. Don't paint yourself into a corner! Finally, read through build threads and ask for help when you are not sure about something. This community is amazing when it comes to helping each other. Have fun and enjoy the build!

Dave

[Mike.Bray]

The best tool you'll need is the one between your ears. Building one of these cars is just building a bunch of small systems one at a time. Get a manual and read it through a couple of times before you start assembling anything. To avoid possible issues, you have to be able to think a couple of steps ahead. Understanding what those future steps are will help you avoid making mistakes that you have to go back and correct. Also, think about how you will replace a part once the car is done. Don't paint yourself into a corner! Finally, read through build threads and ask for help when you are not sure about something. This community is amazing when it comes to helping each other. Have fun and enjoy the build!

Dave

And read Dave's build thread from beginning to end!

[OB6]

The best tool you'll need is the one between your ears. Building one of these cars is just building a bunch of small systems one at a time. Get a manual and read it through a couple of times before you start assembling anything. To avoid possible issues, you have to be able to think a couple of steps ahead. Understanding what those future steps are will help you avoid making mistakes that you have to go back and correct. Also, think about how you will replace a part once the car is done. Don't paint yourself into a corner! Finally, read through build threads and ask for help when you are not sure about something. This community is amazing when it comes to helping each other. Have fun and enjoy the build!

Dave

Couldn't agree more with this. The tools are secondary to patience, reading, and thinking. I can't tell you how much time I've spent staring at and thinking through something before picking up a tool. That said, my most used tools are my bench vises, dremel, right angle drills, and rolling mechanic stool.

[new-world-samuari]

And read Dave's build thread from beginning to end!

cool i will. started looking at it already. i'm a novice like dave.

[new-world-samuari]

thanks everyone. definitely a great community. i'm glad to know there is an active and friendly community out there to help.
i'm sure i'm going to need it.

[new-world-samuari]

question for everyone. i haven't seen the entire manual yet, but i have looked at a few of the build threads here and watched all the FFR assembly videos. no one ever seems to mention torquing fasteners, only a select few.
i am a manufacturing engineer in the aerospace industry i build parts for satellites so torquing is a big part of what i do. i find it odd that every nut and bolt isn't torqued in place since we are building a machine that can kill you if you're not careful.
do you just tighten everything until it feels right? is there a torque table/list in the manual for the different size fasteners?

[Tbev]

question for everyone. i haven't seen the entire manual yet, but i have looked at a few of the build threads here and watched all the FFR assembly videos. no one ever seems to mention torquing fasteners, only a select few.
i am a manufacturing engineer in the aerospace industry i build parts for satellites so torquing is a big part of what i do. i find it odd that every nut and bolt isn't torqued in place since we are building a machine that can kill you if you're not careful.
do you just tighten everything until it feels right? is there a torque table/list in the manual for the different size fasteners?

No, just about everything has a torque spec and the manual has them all.

[Mike.Bray]

question for everyone. i haven't seen the entire manual yet, but i have looked at a few of the build threads here and watched all the FFR assembly videos. no one ever seems to mention torquing fasteners, only a select few.
i am a manufacturing engineer in the aerospace industry i build parts for satellites so torquing is a big part of what i do. i find it odd that every nut and bolt isn't torqued in place since we are building a machine that can kill you if you're not careful.
do you just tighten everything until it feels right? is there a torque table/list in the manual for the different size fasteners?

I'm a huge believer in torqueing fasteners and torqued every one on my car that I could. I even wrote a thread on fasteners and torque. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?42292-Why-the-Torque-Wrench-is-Your-Best-Friend

The manual is a bit inconsistent, some fasteners have a torque spec called and others do not. At the rear of the manual is a page with torque specs for different size bolts so if it's not called out specifically in the section you're working on you can refer back to this page.

[Jhinkemeyer]

The best search syntax in Google is to use this format, "site:http://thefactoryfiveforum.com /xxxxx" without the quotes, and replace "xxxxx" with whatever you are searching for (learned this trick from edwardb). For example, to search for what tools to use, type this into Google search:

site:http://thefactoryfiveforum.com /tool list

It can actually be even easier than that (no need for http:// or any of that Google knows what you want). Just site:domain.extension search criteria

For example: site:thefactoryfiveforum.com recommended tools

would find this thread:

195689

[JohnK]

Google is pretty clever and will figure out what you want with a variety of syntax. You definitely don't need the "http://" and you can put the "Site:xxx" either before or after the text string you want to search on.

[BUDFIVE]

Welcome New-world…..
I too would recommend the build school-a couple points on this—
1)Timing--I went to build school right before I ordered my kit. I had my order ready, but changed several parts of the build during class and ordered the kit before leaving for the airport to come home. The point is build school helped me simplify the build and make it mine. I finished my 347, Dyno’d it, then bolted it to the clutch and Tremec to keep me busy while FFR completed the kit.
2)Contacts--In addition to other future builders I met some FFR employees and my great instructors , Jim and Todd. I consult with these folks by direct email still today.
3) Hands On—reading build threads is very helpful as is following the problems solved on the forum every day. But sometimes it gets overwhelming. Build school shows that one step at a time it all comes together. I do recommend jumping in, grabbing a wrench and getting hands-on at build school.

I have a pretty complete shop and friends with tools to supplement mine so the tool purchases have been moderate. But,
I have to agree with mrglaeser-the Milwaukee Battery op Rivet gun is cool. I used it today on the firewall.

[Mat1asBEV&ICE]

Good thread here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?46787-Which-Additional-Tools-Would-You-Recommend&p=532811&viewfull=1#post532811) on tools.

Best tool is your brain. Read ahead (manual), read thoroughly (best build threads), and think before doing something permanent like cutting, drilling, etc. As mentioned, be patient.

To tools mentioned above I would add step drill bits and angle grinder.